# Calming down a hot horse. Advice Please ?



## ducky1234 (May 2, 2017)

Whatever speed the horse wants, you make her go one faster. Do a lap at the faster speed and then ask for the slower speed. If you don't get it, another lap of faster than the horse wants ensues. May take a while for a young and fit horse. Less fit horses call "uncle" pretty quickly.

FWIW: Having a super forward moving horse beats the crap out the the opposite problem, the horse stuck in park.


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## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

There's nothing like a long hilly trail ride to slow down a horse's mind.


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## mmshiro (May 3, 2017)

I went the opposite way as I once, for fun, tried to let my horse run as long as she wanted (there was no "one faster" in that case), and I was the one throwing in the towel. I also once tried to make her do a smaller, more strenuous, circle until she relaxed, and still there was no slow down before I got dizzy.

If she can't keep her speed on a loose rein (a few ounces of contact, just taking the slack out of the reins), make her come to a full stop and wait a few seconds (3-5). If she walks on without invitation, back her up (gently, not punitively). 

Make sure, though, that you satisfy her need for movement - the only difference is that *you* say when and where, not the horse. But it would be unfair to keep a horse that wants to run and enjoy herself at a promenading pace at _all_ times.

Disclaimer: The above was for a horse who really wanted to get home when the nose pointed to the barn, so stopping and backing was suitably annoying to be a disincentive. Your horse may be motivated by different things.


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## smaile (Sep 21, 2010)

Umm, I strongly disagree with Ducky! I have worked with many hot horses and this is not the way! At first you have to determine why your horse is rushing. If it`s a youngster it may just be scared, nervous, unbalanced etc. If the horse is older and have been ridden for a while - does it have enough turnout time? What feed is the horse on, maybe she needs a low sugar diet? Does the tack fit? Is the footing good in your arena (I have had horses that tend to rush on a slippery/too soft footing)? Is the horse 10000000% healthy? And finally - are you yourself relaxed and balanced?
If otherwise everything with the horse is ok, your seat is good etc.etc., and she is hot because of her bloodlines, then I would suggest these things that have helped me a LOT when dealing with the really hot horses-
1. Forget the reins! I know it is hard and I know that it might seem that the horse is rushing a lot more when you drop them, but believe me - she will always be stronger than you and the more you will pull, the harder it will get. Teach the horse to react and stop from your knee/lower leg and body position. Start with walk, slowly give her reins, while keeping a slight contact. If she starts trotting, slowly take the reins back for a second and then release (at the same time press your knees against her, lower the heel and push the lower leg back and sit more deeper in the saddle). Do the "pull-release" thing everytime she starts to trot, but do it veeery slowly, very calm, so the horse wouldn`t get stressed about the fact that she "has done something wrong". Do the walking until the horse is 100% relaxed and doesn`t want to rush. If that takes more than around 30 min - that`s it, pet the horse and end the training for the day. 
2. When you master the walk start doing walk-stop-walk transitions. With hot horses it is harder then it seems but just do the same you did at the walk. Don`t make her stand for more then 2 -3 sec. that is unnecessary at this point and will just stress her more. 
3. After that just work your way up to trot and canter. At the start ask only few steps in trot/canter and transition back to a lower speed. And again 5 steps trot-walk-5steps trot or 3 steps canter-trot-walk-trot-canter etc., just find what your horse likes the best. 
Remember to keep her thinking ALL the time. Even at the start, when you are just walking, do circles, ask her to bend in or out or walk straight lines etc. Don`t just ride around the arena randomly, work all the time, so she doesn`t get bored. This does take time, but all my youngsters became more quieter and easier to ride. They of course were still hot, but I could control them and didn`t have to fight all the time.


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## LoriF (Apr 3, 2015)

I've seen all of the advice above work on different horses.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Agreed, it depends on the horse. But I would not be letting a horse go full tilt when you just got it, and have no idea how things will go. My daughter's Arab NEVER gets tired. My mare does, but will still keep pushing herself unless I ask her to slow down. She sounds like your horse - great on the ground, but nervous under saddle, and just things everything means GO. She has done barrels in the past, so I think that may have had something to do with it. She never wanted to trot - always launched into a canter/gallop anytime I'd ask for a trot. 

The only way to teach her to slow down was to correct her. She needs to be ridden with full contact. I grew up riding without contact (Western) so I had to learn this. My mare honestly feels lost if I'm not in contact with her. I don't mean pulling back, I just mean a constant tension so she knows I'm there holding her. If I let the reins go loose, she's confused. The exception is after a good workout, when we cool down on a loose rein, and she's happy to just relax. 

Transitions are extremely useful too. Trot on the long side of the arena, walk on the short side. But don't just use your reins to slow her down or to ask for a walk. Use your whole body. It's more of a stiffening up than a pulling back action. Like you're blocking the horse with your entire body rather than pulling on the reins. My abs tighten up, I sit up and back, deep in the saddle (I stop posting when I ask for a walk), and pull back on the reins, releasing slightly as soon as she slows down. It may take many, many tries to get your horse to transition down. Make sure you reward when he does, by either releasing a bit of tension, patting on the neck, or a "good girl/boy". When it doesn't work, resist just pulling harder and harder, and instead, do half-halts. Hold with your core, increase tension in the reins, sit deep, and then give a little so she has a chance to respond. 

I thought my mare just didn't know how to slow down and collect. Turns out I just didn't know how to ask her properly. That may not be the case for you, but that was my experience. Oh, and I only figured this all out with the help of an instructor. I would never have been able to get it on my own. So that may be a good option for you too. Someone on the ground with a lot of experience with different horses can be a godsend. Even just a few lessons has made a world of difference for us.


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## ducky1234 (May 2, 2017)

smaile said:


> At first you have to determine why your horse is rushing.


The psychoanalysis school of horse training. 

I suppose there are many reasons for a horse to feel like doing something. But other than pain related excuses, I'm just not interested in why the horse and I are disagreeing. It boils down to this. The horse is not moving at the speed I desire. I fix it by requiring the horse to move at the speed I now desire. We can go up in speed to re-establish control. It's extremely effective. 

As noted, we can slow down and/or stop to re-establish speed control. The slow down, stop, and turn around (ad nauseum) approach certainly does work. It's my go to approach to for the horse that likes to hurry home. The slow down approach is tedious and time consuming.


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## Horsef (May 1, 2014)

If she moved to a new yard, she might just be a bit upset with the change. Give her a month or two to settle. Mine was like that for about a month. I didn’t mess with her in training sense. I just rode everything in two-point to get off her back and gave her half-halts when she got too out of hand. She settled nicely without too much fuss.


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

OP, with a horse like this, hit the trails and put on some serious miles every day. My Red was like this when I bought him (and had other issues too, including bolting) and it probably took a solid year of riding before I could ride on a loose rein most of the time. So I just tell you that not to discourage you, but to set your mind to prepare for the long haul!!

Serpentines are your friend. It allows you to regulate your horse’s speed while only having one direct rein on his mouth at a time. Because you are right - you don’t want to be on his mouth holding him back all the time. 

Let him on a loose rein. If he speeds up, pick a rein to steer him to the side, and keep alternating back and forth in a tight serpentine until he goes back down to the gait you were at. You could also throw in a complete small circle here and there. 

When he’s returned to the proper gait, let him carry on. Once he speeds up, do the same thing. BE PATIENT and be CONSISTENT. Don’t make a big deal out of it and stay relaxed and calm. 

There were many times Red and I rode for over 2 hours and we never went farther than 1/4 mile on the trail — he was just having that bad of a speed day, so we just worked in serpentines and never got anywhere!

Of course, master the walk first. Teach him to walk on a loose rein. When he’s good at that, then trot. Don’t try to lope until he’s doing very well at the walk and trot. 

Of course, do throw some stops and backing in there every so often. But for the most part, stick to serpentines and circles. 



ducky1234 said:


> Whatever speed the horse wants, you make her go one faster. Do a lap at the faster speed and then ask for the slower speed. If you don't get it, another lap of faster than the horse wants ensues. May take a while for a young and fit horse. Less fit horses call "uncle" pretty quickly.


Without knowing more details about the OP’s horse, I would not recommend this. For some horses, letting them go faster will only make the problem worse and they will. not. quit.


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## ducky1234 (May 2, 2017)

beau159 said:


> they will. not. quit.


I've heard of these horses. I can see why they could be prized speed steeds. I've never experienced one.


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## sarahfromsc (Sep 22, 2013)

You state you pull back on the reins. Some horses may feel trapped. Try holding one rein steady while pulsating the other rein and sit deep.

Agree with serpentines. Also on a circle try counter bending. Use leg yields. Up and down transitions in quick succession...a few strides walk a few trot..a few walk a few trot.

Get her thinking.


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

What's your body doing? Sensitive , hot horses need security from your body. If your leg is unsteady or inconsistent, they will jump and get nervous. Contrary to instinct, you have to keep your leg on. Not clamped or constantly telling them to go, but a consistent contact with the calf that they can rely on an doesn't goose them. 

Long interval walk trot transitions. Trot 10-15 strides, then walk 10, repeat. Long intervals chills them out, short intervals sharpens them. 

What is your seat doing? If you are sitting the trot, post. Your seat may not be quiet enough to sit at this point. Same with the canter. Get up in a two point or half seat. Loud, unbalanced seats will make them go faster. 

Count your rhythm, do sweeping figures. Bend them and get them supple and thinking. At the walk you can bend to the inside and outside. Keep walking in a straight line but bend them so their head is ~45°. Hold it briefly.


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## Zexious (Aug 2, 2013)

Out of curiosity, did she behave like this when you test rode her? Could you maybe contact her previous owners to see if this is a typical behavior? It's possible that she's still settling in--not that that's an excuse not to listen, of course. I'm just saying the issue might resolve itself with a little bit of time.

Are you riding in an arena? Or on trails/somewhere open?
In my experience, the most useful thing you can do is engage her. Serpentines, circles, half halts, change of direction, transition, collection.... All very useful in getting a horse to think about what she's doing, rather than just plowing ahead.

Are you working with a trainer? They may be able to give you some pointers, too!


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

I wanted to ask what @Zexious did, about how was horse at test ride, assuming there was one.

And, what sort of changes have there been to the horse's food and turnout arrangement. tell us about her food, if you don't mind.

Is the horse the same with a different rider?


I always say that the advice given should match the rider's ability to utilize it. If someones says, "take her out for a long, long run and when she wants to slow down, make her go faster". Well, some riders can't do that.

If you tell a rider that is dealing with a balky horse to do an 'over and under' and ride through the bucks, . . some riders will end up being dumped.

How capable the rider is MUST be factored in to an approach to the problem, since there are more ways than one. 
That does, however, beg the question; is this new horse suited for the rider? (which is always a tough question to ask oneself. it's hard to say, is my horse too much horse for me?)

anyway . . . . . once the food is at a level that is not inciting hyperactivity, and the turn out helps relax a horse, and you know that saddle fit is good, then it's on to riding/ground work. In general, I am in agreement with @Beau, in that bending, serpentines are you friend. there is something about repeated bending that helps a horse let down out of anxiety, as long as the turns are done sort of 'rythmically', and without any sort of 'punitive' feel to them.


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## RMH (Jul 26, 2016)

I got a similar horse about 5 years ago. He's laid back on the ground but was very forward in the saddle. I wouldn't say he is hot as he never seems to get worked up or nervous, he just likes to run. It took me a while but I finally learned to ride him and he learned what to expect from me. Now I can ride at a walk or rack on a loose rein but I always give him the chance to run sometime during our ride. What worked early on was serpentines and side passes. This horse is very sensitive to leg so I could ease his head around and push his hind over and we were side passing often quite fast. Eventually he'd slow down. Now the only time he gets really forward on his own is in a group with other forward horses and then he wants to be in race mode. Vet estimated him at age 19 when I got him but I'd love to have seen him at 6-8 years old. My point is give it time and you'll learn about your horse and she'll learn what to expect from you. Take it slow and start in a controlled area such as an arena until you are completely comfortable before heading out on the trails.


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## PureDream (Apr 26, 2015)

Thank you all for the advice, I really appreciate it. 

Okay, to clear up a few things, she is 12 years old and from what I know, she was used for many speed events in her past like barrel racing & campdrafting. She was also used for things like trail riding, stockwork and roping. She is a very well-built, athletic & fit horse. I currently have been riding her in an arena. As for my seat/confidence, I would say Im fairly well-balanced on her, Im not nervous when riding her & I try to stay very patient/calm with her. 

As for feed, she has currently been fed oaten hay morning and night. Im not too sure what she was previously fed but I can find out. 
There was actually no test ride due to the fact of her town being very far from mine. She was transported to my town & I really just had to hope for the best. I knew full well that my decision could go either way due to not test riding her. Although, I do have videos of her being ridden from her previous home and she does not seem no where near as forward moving. Im thinking about getting a trainer to give advice & help out with my errors. 

Once again, thank you all for the advice, Ill try some of the advice given here & see how it goes!


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

My hot, forward, eager ottb was like your mare when I first got her.

I first did groundwork with her re-establishing her understanding of rein aids (you can do this with a bridle and normal reins, just apply pressure as soft as soft can be and gradually increase until the horse gives to it and then INSTANTLY release and start at that tiny soft level EVERY time, it softens them up beautifully!).

Then I got on her back. And I asked her to walk. If she broke to trot, I put her onto a tiny circle and pushed her forward in trot until she begged me, in her way, to be allowed to walk in a straight line again. And that's what I did over and over and over and over again for quite a long time. Once she was consistent in walk, same in trot. She could go as fast as she wanted within the gait I asked for, but the MOMENT she broke out of it, it was straight to uncomfortably small circles. 

Make the right thing pleasant and the wrong thing unpleasant. I now have a horse who is happy to move forward, but also happy to stand still. I can ride her with a light giving contact, or on a loose rein (edit; and even without reins at all!), even when her energy levels are fizzing over - because I have taught her to be responsive to my body.

It takes time. It can be incredibly frustrating. But IT WORKS.


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