# Trailer chocks, and anything else I need?



## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Depending upon the safety package you bought, not only are chocks a good idea but so is planks, like 2 inch thick by {how wide are your tires?} 12" the length of your fender to back the trailer up and onto keeping tires out of the dirt and allowing airflow better under the trailer.
Several boards to stack and place under the trailer jack on so you aren't cranking the entire mechanism full height..
One of the biggest for us is to have wheel covers and use them faithfully if the trailer is sitting so sun damage not dry-rot your tires. Texas has much the same sun rays and heat so tire damage occurs to easily...be proactive.
And... a hitch lock.
We have one that completely covers the opening so it can not be hitched to a vehicle...
When you get the truck if you leave in your slide, lock that too especially if you do equalizing bars as those slide-ins are expensive to replace!!
Grease the hitch on the ball or inside the hitch itself and keep them free of abrasive sand always for the life of the hitch.
*🐴... *


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## boots (Jan 16, 2012)

How exciting. My trailer is very similar to yours. 

I use rubber chocks that I picked up at my local farm supply store. They have served me well for 9 years. I can use rubber for my horse trailer because I'm not in an environment where there is diesel, gas, or other solvents on the ground. Those degrade rubber over time. Otherwise I'd use the urethane type. 

However, if the ground is really muddy I use a short length of railroad tie. 

I only chock one tire.


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## dogpatch (Dec 26, 2017)

horselovinguy said:


> When you get the truck if you leave in your slide, lock that too especially if you do equalizing bars as those slide-ins are expensive to replace!!
> Grease the hitch on the ball or inside the hitch itself and keep them free of abrasive sand always for the life of the hitch.
> *🐴... *


We just went through this, setting up a new EAZlift ball mount on a new truck. The slide in ball mount was $200! We bought a locking pin for it. Then it had to be set up for the expected tongue weight of the trailer. Fortunately we had bars. Had to find a ball rated for the expected weight of the trailer, and new safety chains for the trailer as the old ones were too short - and probably not strong enough anyway. We bought heavier chains. Now we are trying to figure out how long the emergency brake lanyard needs to be. Shorter than the chains, but long enough for turns. And where to attach it to the truck. 

We hauled to the park last week, where the parking lot was crowded. I was surprised to see we were the only ones with a weight distributing hitch. Oh, and the new truck has built in sway control. If I hadn't discovered that, we'd have put a sway bar on it.


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

The sway control has to be set up on both the trailer and the truck, is that correct? I think that's what they told me. I paid extra to get whatever was needed on the trailer end, but I think he told me that I'd have to have the other part installed on the truck, and since we're going to be renting a truck for now that's not an option.

He did also tell me that if I'm pulling it with a 3/4-ton truck, as I planned, then sway control is really extraneous. I'm not sure about that, but I tend to think that he must have at least believed what he was saying, as him saying that would tend to make someone not want to buy the sway protection, meaning that they would be losing money.

I kept telling him, "Upsell me! Just tell me anything I might conceivably need and I will buy it" because he seemed to want to err on the side of suggesting less.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

dogpatch said:


> Now we are trying to figure out how long the emergency brake lanyard needs to be. Shorter than the chains, but long enough for turns. And where to attach it to the truck.


Not much shorter than your chains do you want that cable...it needs enough slack you not pop it making a tight turn.
Ours we also thread a bit through the chain so it not catch the ground.
Needs a solid attachment point, we actually use the chain placement location on our hitch.
We use a carbinger to hold the loop end...as it is strong enough to secure but made to hold to pop the pin that engages those brakes heaven forbid you ever need those emergency brakes to engage..















Don't care what color it is, ours is about 3" - 4" long and has a wide width top section so it snaps over the hitch easily and again can be released with ease...
You can buy them just about anyplace... 

How long a cable wire...answers from experts...


https://www.etrailer.com/question-144074.html




https://www.etrailer.com/question-134298.html



Safe travels to you...
🐴...


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## dogpatch (Dec 26, 2017)

ACinATX said:


> The sway control has to be set up on both the trailer and the truck, is that correct? I think that's what they told me. I paid extra to get whatever was needed on the trailer end, but I think he told me that I'd have to have the other part installed on the truck, and since we're going to be renting a truck for now that's not an option.
> 
> He did also tell me that if I'm pulling it with a 3/4-ton truck, as I planned, then sway control is really extraneous. I'm not sure about that, but I tend to think that he must have at least believed what he was saying, as him saying that would tend to make someone not want to buy the sway protection, meaning that they would be losing money.
> 
> I kept telling him, "Upsell me! Just tell me anything I might conceivably need and I will buy it" because he seemed to want to err on the side of suggesting less.


We downsized from a 3/4 ton with beefed up suspension, to a half ton. We never used sway bars except when pulling a 32 ft travel trailer. I've been worried we made a big mistake (could never have afforded a new 3/4 ton), but the little truck is loaded with trailer towing features, like the sway damping and has a towing capacity of over 11,000 lb. We were going to put a sway bar on, but I read somewhere specifically do NOT do that when the truck is equipped with sway damping. Setting up the weight distributing hitch correctly was a bit of work, but worth it.

Another place that has a lot of information about setting up your rig, besides eTrailer is Double D Horse Trailer Sales. Click on Resources, then Articles Horse Trailers for Sale - Nationwide Delivery on Horse Trailers


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## dogpatch (Dec 26, 2017)

horselovinguy said:


> Not much shorter than your chains do you want that cable...it needs enough slack you not pop it making a tight turn.
> 
> How long a cable wire...answers from experts...
> 
> ...


Looks like they're saying a bit longer than the chains. I believe ours can be attached to the hitch receiver on the new truck, but the cable is going to need to be shortened quite a bit.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

ACinATX said:


> The sway control has to be set up on both the trailer and the truck, is that correct? I think that's what they told me. I paid extra to get whatever was needed on the trailer end, but I think he told me that I'd have to have the other part installed on the truck, and since we're going to be renting a truck for now that's not an option.


Yes, you need to have truck and trailer matched and sway control adjusted by knowledgeable technicians.



ACinATX said:


> He did also tell me that if I'm pulling it with a 3/4-ton truck, as I planned, then sway control is really extraneous.


Yea, _don't_ believe everything you are told is right.
Can't stress enough you are dealing with live cargo...it shifts, it moves and add in driving conditions it is in your best interest to have safety protocols in place.
So...
Sway control is designed to assist you with maintaining control when adverse road conditions occur...when a tractor trailer goes past you at 75mph and catches you in his vortex wake of air, you will appreciate those sway controls.
Add the chances of high winds while traveling if a thunderstorm rolls in and you in trouble in a hurry...
When traveling to your new home you will be crossing bridges and climbing mountains at some point...yes, sway control is important and safest for you. Winds, caught in crosswinds unknown and unseen you will be very glad you took the extra 5 minutes to hook up properly.
There are several types of sway control on the market today and depending upon exactly what you bought set-up can vary but...truck & trailer must be "mated" to each other to make a working unit far safer...

_So, my hubby just chimed in...he is well-informed concerning trucks and towing._
He said a beautiful trailer and you have coming soon a truck to match it ...do what it takes to keep you in pristine condition hauling safely down the road.
Make sure you have a 11,000 pound rated hitch on that truck...in writing & proof.. You are far better to be oversized than under with your hitch.
Make all of the hitch components match or exceed the specifications... proper weight rated ball, draw-bar {what slides in the sleeve of the hitch}
That is a long, large trailer and when you put horses _{don't care what size they are!}_ on, add all your do-dads you are going to collect and shove in that tack room you better have the right equipment to be road-safe.
3/4 ton truck....yup, needed!! _No smaller!_
Hubby also asked if you went with surge brakes as the picture is somewhat not clear what you chose?
Yes, you still have emergency brake connections as is federal law in every state.
When you get the truck take the entire rig back to where you bought the trailer and have their technicians set-up and adjust your components so it is right and safe...they also must teach you how to put it together, take it apart, how to store the parts and safeguard them from theft...

Safe travels AC to you from hubby and I....
Don't forget to get extra trailer keys made immediately and put away safe so just in case you lose...and it happens very easily at trail rides...
Hubby said that the website "etrailer" is a great reference and easily understood helpful articles and videos.
"Mr Truck" is also a decent place for information as is "Dixie Horse & Mule Co" site in their resources area...prowl around all those sites as they have many articles about general maintenance things all trailer owners face and those of us with horse trailers...a bit more we face cause those are our pets towed behind us.

*dogpatch*...your truck should have a switch to engage/disengage that sway dampening system...
Hubby suggested you read up on that for pro and con to doing than just believing what a salesman gave as verbiage since to often it is found they are not as informed about towing live cargo nor understand what is involved and how to read the information on a printout sheet means..._be careful.
He said what you do is your business but be really informed. _😉
🐴...


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## AragoASB (Jul 12, 2020)

Don't forget a trailer aid in case of flats 



ValleyVet and those places have them.


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

@AragoASB thank you, yes, I will get that!

@horselovinguy per the website the brakes are 

Self Adjusting Brakes4-Wheel Electric​

I am not sure if that answers your questions or not. It is such a nice trailer. It has two ceiling vents and little fans in the corners to keep them cool, lots of windows, screens, that side ramp, windows in the front so I can see in the back, adjustable height butt bars, adjustable length chest bars, extra tie rings, heavy duty flooring, rubber torsion axles. It's what I'm going to use to haul them to Seattle, at least Teddy and Moonshine, so I wanted it to be super safe and super comfortable.

I am definitely planning on erring on the side of "too much" when we buy the truck (extra heavy duty everything). I'm not going to haul them across country with something that isn't up to the job. Unfortunately my husband decided to get his prius fixed rather than getting the truck, so we'll be renting (there's a place that rents 3/4-ton trucks here) for now. However, I am thinking that with my new job I may be able to just buy the truck myself. And when I do, you had better believe it will have every single safety and towing feature that they make.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Nice trailer!!! 

I agree with the suggestion of tire covers. I always keep them on my trailer so the tires don't get cracked from the sun. 

When I first started getting used to hitching up and pulling a trailer, I used a system with telescopic magnetic balls to help me hook it up with minimal hassle. I don't bother anymore since I now have a pretty good idea of where my truck needs to be in relation to the trailer. Another system I devised is when first starting out is that I would put boards behind the wheels of the truck when I parked the trailer. Then I would unhitch and drive the truck away, but the boards would stay in place so that the next time I backed up towards the trailer, I would feel the boards fetch up under the truck tires and wouldn't go any further. 

For tying, I use a velcro release strap for trailers. Safer in the event of an emergency where you have a trapped horse, but strong enough to hold them in place the rest of the time. 

Enjoy!


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

TrailerAid is awesome. I have unfortunately used mine many times and it is so handy to not have to unload horses. 
So also have everything else you need in your trailer to change a flat.
Bungee cords, random wire, electrical tape, WD 40, and all sorts of random things like that also come in handy from time to time!

The hubby made me a "custom" chock that I put in-between my two tires to simultaneously block the trailer from rolling either direction. 
Now I wasn't taking a picture of the chock but you can see it in-between the tires in this picture.


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## gottatrot (Jan 9, 2011)

I love your trailer!!


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## MeditativeRider (Feb 5, 2019)

I just have to say I keep reading the title for this and thinking it says "Trailer chooks..." (Do you use the word chooks in the USA? Chooks = chickens).

Looks like a lovely trailer anyway!


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

@MeditativeRider haha I actually had thought the word was "chooks" and not "chocks," and I got confused when I was originally googling the term. I was like, why does it keep giving me results for chickens, and then I remembered.

About the tire covers -- this is one of those times where I can just get cheapo x-brand stuff, right? All I need is something that's going to block most of the UV rays?


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

ACinATX said:


> @MeditativeRider haha I actually had thought the word was "chooks" and not "chocks," and I got confused when I was originally googling the term. I was like, why does it keep giving me results for chickens, and then I remembered.
> 
> About the tire covers -- this is one of those times where I can just get cheapo x-brand stuff, right? All I need is something that's going to block most of the UV rays?


Yes, I got mine at Princess Auto for like 20$ a tire cover (they were on sale). It's just to keep the sun off so I don't think you need to spend an arm and a leg.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Google is your friend here...
You *do* need the size of your tire as the things are sized to fit.
They come in different color, of gray, white or black commonly...
White can show dirt but repels the most UV rays and heat.
Gray not show as much dirt but not repel as much...and black, shows little dirt and absorbs.
Remember this is primarily "splash-up" dirt from rain so pick carefully...
Don't forget to cover your spare...now that is the cover to spend money on as it never comes off and you want it to stay put and do proper coverage of the entire tire if you have it hanging the side of your trailer as I do.
Mine is white, with an American flag on it...
There are many really nice ones, the more "specialized" in design the more expensive they become.
🐴...


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## SidneyG (Dec 7, 2020)

Acadianartist said:


> Yes, I got mine at Princess Auto for like 20$ a tire cover (they were on sale). It's just to keep the sun off so I don't think you need to spend an arm and a leg.


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## SidneyG (Dec 7, 2020)

If you don’t use your trailer frequently, be sure to move it from time to time so the tires don’t sit on the same part of each tire. Hope that’s clear. Enjoy.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

If you can set it on blocks for long periods when not hauling that works too. Just check the pressure (always should any way) before you load and leave.


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

horselovinguy said:


> Several boards to stack and place under the trailer jack on so you aren't cranking the entire mechanism full height..


OK so I see a lot of people doing this. Can you explain why I wouldn't want to crank the entire mechanism full height? I always get nervous seeing those stacked planks -- they seem so insecure, like they could just come apart or slide away from each other or something, and then the trailer would come crashing down in the front.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Depending upon where you unhook, you might not be able to raise the trailer high enough by fully extending your jack to drop the hitch ball = not unhooking.
I notice the longer the hitch is extended the more "wobble" occurs it seems for many trailer brands.
The problem is it is easily "over-extended" in length and can damage the mechanism.
I've also seen dirt and grit get caught in the telescoping and bind it.
This is a mechanism that needs greased/lubricated periodically. I happen to use marine grade grease/lube as if it gets wet from rain it not disappear...

As you know from how I always comment there is more to share of wisdom gained...
Not knowing what kind of "foot" your trailer comes with...if it doesn't have a foot, _get one _to help better support the tongue weight of the trailer.
A straight pipe easily digs into dirt, blacktop and concrete dropping the trailer nose making it to low to get your truck under.
There are available flat feet or hard trailer jack tire_ {that can also assist in moving the trailer a small bit when you are off and trying to hitch up...}_

One bit of wisdom is if the "foot" is removable, *do it *prior to traveling so you not hit the extended part on a ground surface and bend the tube of the jack, possible rendering it unusable and jammed. At the time of removal is also when to jack the extending part up fully..Yes, I've done that "bang" leaving a parking lot with a drainage dip....
A small pin to touch can release that foot section...something to absolutely ask about and when you do hook-up, you fully retract the moving hitch tube to level inside the housing...its the life of your hitch or you will face replacing with one wrong hit to a hard surface.
My husband was not happy...and it was him who had to change and fix my damages made...we still had to buy new parts but the labor was all his doing and saved a lot of $$$$.

I've also learned to use those blocks makes hooking-up or unhooking faster when you don't have to crank the mechanism that much further..and it is not always easy to crank down that mechanism lifting the weight of the trailer in the process.
It also just makes more sense that there is strength and greater stability when you have a double-walled tube supporting your trailers weight than stretching that same tube to single thickness and now how many inches above the height of your trucks chassis and hitch...yea, no...
Today's trucks commonly sit on 20" tires of larger...that is a lot of height to extend a jack.

As for moving boards...
I use 6x6 in various thickness so rarely do I need to stack...we cut some old posts to several thicknesses, varying for just this reason.
The other way to do this is screw a few boards together if the idea of "loose" gives you concern.
We also have 4x4 as trailer chock boards in case we need to chock the trailer for some reason...
Oh...those jack boards also can be used to "ramp" your trailer if you need to do a tire change...you don't need a huge length when how much of the tire sits on the road at a time...that's what you need to elevate for a flat change..._it works.

Oh...you asked about things to carry on your trailer for safety... 








* 4-way tire iron* so you can use leverage to loosen lug nuts. Make sure your trailer lugs are one of the sizes on the wrench._

🐴...


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

It has a sand foot, which I expect means a plate, but I will see. If so, I will ask the delivery guy if it's removable. He told me he's stopping somewhere on the way to do a trailer repair, so presumably he's fairly knowledgeable about it.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

A sand foot may not remove, but it also retracts high, right next to the tube and not hang down inches worth like a wheel does.

Another is...if your trailer is a small step up in the back = not high off the ground speak to the trailer guy delivering if drag wheels are something he sees being advantageous.
Those are wheels attached to the bottom back bumper edge corner so if you go down and there is a drainage gully commonly found you not drag the trailer butt but roll it out of the hole/depression it just went through...
The longer your overhang behind the axle the more chance of dragging the trailer butt..

My trailer sits on 16" tires where many horse trailers sit on 15.
That small difference means my horses have a higher step up inside and drop off coming down...but I also have a higher ground clearance for rubbing too.

🐴


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

What do you guys think about this hitch lock?









Amazon.com: AMPLOCK U-BRP2516 RV/Trailer Coupler Lock (fits 2 5/16 inches Coupler) : Automotive


Buy AMPLOCK U-BRP2516 RV/Trailer Coupler Lock (fits 2 5/16 inches Coupler): Hitch Locks - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



smile.amazon.com





It's pricy to my mind, but that's probably good, right?


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Price and cost has nothing to do with the product and how successful it is in reducing stolen..
The ratings of consumers who bought, consumers who didn't have their trailer taken because it was secured properly by some device is what makes a good deterrent.
Do the research and see if this lives up to the advertising campaign you're reading.
Read the reviews, negative and positive should be seen cause you know not everyone is going to be satisfied...
Make sure you have insurance that covers for loss of the trailer, to replace and to replace contents that you document are in it at all times...{pictures}...
Same as a house, it is far easier to put in claims for compensation if the need arises if you have documented proof of what was in it...

If you think this is the product to safeguard your trailer...honestly something should already be on the trailer if it isn't on your property behind a locked fence, even then...my trailer if not on my truck is sporting a theft deterrent system.
🐴...


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