# hackabit



## DraftyAiresMum (Jun 1, 2011)

That bit (called a combo bit) is pretty severe. Way more so than the TT you're currently using.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

there looks to be so much happening with that bit; a gag action with the bit moving up in the mouth, a curb chain, nose pressure and possible downward pull on the poll.

I know that all such bits are not as ugly as they can seem to those of us who never use anything other than a one or two jointed snaffle. but, other than putting a lot of pressure for a stop , I doubt you can do much teaching of turning with that bit.

you say your horse wants to go one way, and you the other, and he does not listen to the bit, and you mostly use just legs.

I would say that start working on getting him to learn how to listen to and FOLLOW the bit, instead of relying on legs.

I know that may sound odd, but I was taught that first you train the horse to follow the bit, THEN legs come in for refinement, and eventually, you ride primarily from legs and seat. but, if you are going to USE a bit, you'd best have the horse acknowledging and following it.


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## Aigoo (Jan 8, 2014)

what do you recommend to help my gelding with his turning and braking in the trails?


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

well, the braking become better when the turning becomes better, becuase you utilize the turn to create a stop, IF the horse ignores your signals to stop.

I would use a snaffle, as I normally do. 
I am not a trainer, and I have not worked with a hrose that is really hard to the bit. but, in general, you start by asking the hrose to flex his head to one side (lets say LEFT), and if he does, you release. you do that until when you pick up a bit of rein, he is ready to flex his head just a bit that way, becuase your left rein gets him thinking left.

this sounds simple, but if the hrose puts on resistance, then that's where you start working. it's done with ONE rein, and with very careful timing to be sure you release when the horse gives, and NOT while he is still resisting. but, don't expect a huge change, look for small changes at first, ask for small softnesses and reward that.
do lots of turns in the arena.

look into the one rein stop. this is what you can get when you start working with circles, and lateral rein usage, instead of taking two reins and a harsh bit and trying to muscle a hrose into a stop.

I suggest you do some research into how to make a horse softer to the bit. 
I


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## DraftyAiresMum (Jun 1, 2011)

Something like a Jr Cowhorse or TenderTouch might be an idea.

You get the curb action with the curb strap/chain under the chin and a little bit of gag action (poll pressure) with the small amount the mouthpiece slides on the shanks, but it isn't so ridiculously overwhelming as that combo.

http://www.horseforum.com/horse-tack-equipment/thoughts-bit-389930/

I have the exact bit first shown in this thread and my gelding loves it.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## squirrelfood (Mar 29, 2014)

Using a bigger bit to stop a horse is like using Pull-up pants to potty train a child. Neither one works unless there is enough proper training for the child/horse to actually understand the purpose of the training device used.


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## TXhorseman (May 29, 2014)

Aigoo said:


> My gelding would not cooperate in the trails and go opposite direction where I want him to go. He rides beautifully in arena, but not so great in the trails. I want to have him in a bit that able to give me a good control when I really need it. I usually use my legs most of the time; I do need to rely the bit occasionally. I want a bit that has low severity. I saw this hackabit. I wonder what do you guys think? Do you think this bit have too high severity?
> Oh, he currently wear copper roller tom thumb.





Aigoo said:


> what do you recommend to help my gelding with his turning and braking in the trails?


While not as severe as many mechanical hackamores with long shanks, the bit pictured is designed to add pressure to the cartilage of the horse's nose along with other pressure. 

While not as forceful as other bits, the simple snaffle bit provides more variety of two-way communication between rider and horse.

Horses often respond differently when outside of an arena. This may be compared to children when taken outside of the classroom. They must be taught to respond to the teacher wherever they may be. 

You should be able to get even a recalcitrant horse to respond to the lateral action of a snaffle bit. With your elbow against your side, you should be able to turn the horse's head by rotating you forearm outward. This should be done smoothly while releasing an equal amount of pressure with the other rein. You must remain balanced in the saddle with a low center of gravity when doing this. However, such action should be treated as the exception rather than the rule. 

Introducing a horse such as this to trail riding should be done gradually. Initially, try simply taking the horse outside but close to the arena. Do the same type of work with it there as you had been doing in the arena.

Once the horse is behaving the same outside but near the arena, you can start venturing further away. Keep the horse busy, however, to remind it that it is still in class even though it is not in the classroom.

As the horse learns you are still the one who makes the ultimate decisions, you may begin to experiment by giving the horse more freedom out on the trails.


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## mslady254 (May 21, 2013)

It's unfortunately a common misconception that a 'stronger' bit gives more control.It might, for a while, but it, imho,it only really serves to make the horse duller in the long run, and possibly causes the horse to become dangerous over time. 
I would encourage you to begin to think of the bit as another form of COMMUNICATION, rather than a control tool,,,and to use as light a bit with as light a hand as possible. It will take more time. It's not the fast or easy answer. But, to me, it's the best answer.
I would instead urge you to seek help from an exerienced friend or trainer , one who knows how to work with the horse (and you) to teach the things explained here by TxHorseman and Tinyliny. 
You can up the ante to 30 lbs of metal and/or $$$ of equipment, but if this horse doesnt want to listen to you, he still won't listen to you. Truly, he will run thru the pain if he really wants to.
That's not to say sometimes a stronger bit seems to fix the issue. Some horses do decide to obey after that, but it's a forced obedience -not a willing one. Is that what you really want ? just offering some food for thought as you look for answers....

Thanks for reading if you stayed thru the end. LOL.

Fay


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## mslady254 (May 21, 2013)

OP, I was just reading another thread: "Am I taking a training shortcut by bitting up?", and thought of this thread. You might be interested in reading those posts also.

Hope it's helpful.

Fay


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## Aigoo (Jan 8, 2014)

Thanks guys. I will keep his usual bit and give him more miles. If he shows no improvement, I will get professional or experienced horse person's help. Thank you.
Mslady - I read your post from beginning to ending  I will check out the other post.


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