# Softening New Leather?



## GoldRush

Oil is good, but I don't know about olive oil, since it can go rancid... Work the leather, roll it around, and the fibers will loosen.


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## iridehorses

There has been a lot of discussion about using Olive Oil as a leather conditioner so aside from saying that I am not in favor of it for many reasons, I'll leave that part of the question alone.

As for getting it softer, if it hasn't gotten soft my now, I would wonder about the type of leather you are dealing with. Working the leather will help but if there is little difference after soaking for 12 hours, chances are it is not going to be as soft as you seem to want. What brand of leather is it? Is it an Asian import?


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## RoadRider / Rios Dad

I am very fussy about my leather also. I can not stand hard, dirty cracked leather so I bought a 5 gallon pail of Harness oil. I put my leather in it all the time to soak. I let it sit submirsed in oil over night and then pull it out and hang it above the pail to drip dry for another few days and then wipe it down.
My leather is perfect, soft, clean, no cracks and after almost 25 years my headstall looks brand new.
I have never used anything except harness oil and the amish hear soak their harness in it to keep them from drying out.
For saddles I paint it heavily on the BACK side, not the front.
My equipment sees all sorts of weather from heavy rain, cold snow to swimming and with regular oiling it stays soft.
I do NOT remove the bit. I just wipe it down afterwards.


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## sillybunny11486

I would never soak something leather in oil. Leather is like a sponge. You'll be oiling you hands and horses face as well. i've ruined some nice tack that way.

Lexol leather conditioner works great.


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## GoldRush

Personally, I love the Bee Natural leather cleaner and oil. My sister makes custom saddles, and this is what she reccommends to her clients. A bottle of oil (available in many sizes) lasts for a long time and isn't horribly expensive.


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## RoadRider / Rios Dad

sillybunny11486 said:


> I would never soak something leather in oil. Leather is like a sponge. You'll be oiling you hands and horses face as well. i've ruined some nice tack that way.
> 
> Lexol leather conditioner works great.


I bought my working head stall in 1986. About 2 weeks ago I got a complement on how nice it is. They didn't know the age of it only the shine, the softness of it. I regularly receive compliments on my tac. How old is your headstall??


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## apc11196

iridehorses said:


> There has been a lot of discussion about using Olive Oil as a leather conditioner so aside from saying that I am not in favor of it for many reasons, I'll leave that part of the question alone.
> 
> As for getting it softer, if it hasn't gotten soft my now, I would wonder about the type of leather you are dealing with. Working the leather will help but if there is little difference after soaking for 12 hours, chances are it is not going to be as soft as you seem to want. What brand of leather is it? Is it an Asian import?


Thanks everyone! I'm actually curious to why you dislike olive oil...


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## heyycutter

i like leather CPR. works great


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## luvs2ride1979

Oil can work nicely, on high quality leather. However, cheap, chemically tanned (even "drum tanned") leather will simply soak up the oil, which will weaken the fibers, making it stretch and break more easily as time goes by. It can also soak up a LOT of oil, taking days and days, if not weeks, for all of the "excess" oil to come out of the leather.

The best way to have "soft" leather that will last forever is to spend the money on QUALITY leather goods made in North America, Europe, or Australia, and some Argentine leather goods. Stay AWAY from any leather products made in India, Pakistan, or any other part of Asia. Even those made with "English bridle leather" are still only "so-so" in quality. 

Example: I just bought a pair of "Silverleaf" reins and an "Ansley" dropped noseband from Toklat. Silverleaf is supposed to be Toklat's new "premium" leather goods line.
Toklat - Horse Tack - Saddle Pads - Horse Riding Apparel - Tack & Accessories - Bridle Parts

I was not impressed... Both had tags "made in India" and the leather was not near the quality I was expecting for the price.

I also just bought a pair of Bobby's reins, used from an HGS forum member. THOSE were very nice, high quality reins (barely used, soft and supple!). I've just ordered a Bobby's bridle from a member here, and I'm expecting it will be just as nice. 

Bobby's tack isn't as high priced as some, about the same price as Ansley and the new "Silverleaf" by Toklat, but the quality is so much nicer.

I use warmed Hydrophane Leather Conditioner (comes in a can, oily) or Passier Lederbalsam to soften and preserve leather. I prefer the Passier conditioner as it won't "over condition" like oils can. You just whipe off the excess and on you go. Plus a little goes a long way, making it a very economical leather conditioner.


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## Nutty Saddler

Soaking your leather in oil ( any sort of oil ) - to be honest I can't think of much worse treatment.

Use a leather conditioner - should look like a grease NOT an oil .


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## apc11196

Why is it bad? I have always heard it to be a good thing to do and the facts behind it seem true and good.


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## Nutty Saddler

Leather is made from cow hide - it uses a process called tanning , which uses the tannic acid from plants ( tree bark is best ) . This process removes most if not all the natural fats and oils from the hide. 

What we have to do is replace the fats and oils that have been removed. The natural oil content is very, very small - natural cow skin contains mostly fat - so that is what we should aim to use - fat - .
The very best substance you can get for making your leather soft is - curriers grease - it is a combination of tallow ( rendered beef fat ) , oil ( cod liver is best ) and beeswax . The proportions are about 75% tallow , 20% oil and 5% wax. These should be heated up and mixed together , they form a greasy substance that can be worked into the leather.
Sedgewicks , stubben , jeffries , all make a product that are very good and are close to this formula ( though they all keep their exact formula's secret ) . 

Oil is bad for leather because it is a liquid and , leather can ( and does ) absorb lots of it - this breaks down and weakens the fibres . What appears to be leather softening is really leather weakening.

It is like putting a piece of paper into a bucket of water - it will go from being stiff to being really soft - right before it turns to mush and falls apart.

To my mind there are only two pieces of saddlery that have or use oil. 
One is a three fold girth that has an oil impregnated cloth inside it ( the leather absorbs the oil from the cloth slowly and therefore keeps the oil content low. The other is a crupper - these if made properly contain whole linseed - again the oil from the linseeds is released and absorbed slowly - again the oil is absorbed slowly.

I do not - and have never used neat oil on any of my tack. I was trained by a registered master saddler in 1992, who was in turn trained by a master saddler . Both he and Sedgewicks ( leather manufacturers ) do not advise the use of oil .


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## apc11196

Thanks a ton! That really helped me! Wow, and all of these years I didn't know that lol...


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## GoldRush

Forwarded this topic to my sister, who is also a saddelier(?) and she agrees with Nutty. Oil is fine if it is made for leather (again, Bee Natural has a terrific product line for all types of leather) and solid grease is great too...depends on user preference. Olive oil? Not a good idea.


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## RoadRider / Rios Dad

My headstall was bought in July 1986. I spends a day 3 or 4 times a year soaking in a barrel of Harness oil and then allowed to drip dry for a few days. It is beautiful soft leather and certainly doesn't seem to be falling apart.
All my leather including my saddle is soaked regularly in Harness oil.
The local amish saddle shop has a large bath tub and dips harnesses for the locals.
50 years of oiling all my leather and never a failure??? I ride in rain, freezing cold and it stands up for decades?
Must be doing something right?


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## RoadRider / Rios Dad

It was extremely cold out today and windy, about 20 below so I brought my saddle in, placed it beside the furnace for a few hours to warm up then put in on the deepfreeze and using a paint brush proceeded to paint all surfaces with harness oil. I did this several times and will now let it sit and dry over the next few days beside the furnace. My leather is soft and lasts


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## GoldRush

Harness oil is oil made for leather...we were disagreeing about using _olive_ oil as a leather softener. Harness oil is great to use as a wipe on or to soak. Olive oil has tannins, so may actually dry the leather out, or weaken the fibers, since it basically continues the tanning process. It also goes rancid easily, so THAT would be nasty for horse and rider! LOL


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## jimmy

RiosDad said:


> I bought my working head stall in 1986. About 2 weeks ago I got a complement on how nice it is. They didn't know the age of it only the shine, the softness of it. I regularly receive compliments on my tac. How old is your headstall??


ia friend of mine does the same rio and his harness is the same as yours maybe as old as well


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## sandy88

*leather*



apc11196 said:


> I just got a new leather bridle and wanted to soften the leather up. I love my tack REALLY soft because than it looks and feels nice and it doesn't crack or break. I have been basting it with olive oil in a turkey pan periodically over the last 12 hours, and I've been brushing it with a turkey brush too (lol). I plan on leaving it soaking for about another 12 hours.
> 
> How does my plan sound? Do you have any other good ideas? What about putting it in the oven or something, my Dad used to do it for baseball gloves . hhahah
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Amanda




Hey why don't you use alcohol. Get a cotton ball and rubbing alcohol and try it. Also you can use vaseline to soften it a little bit. Tell me if it works.


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## Polaris

Always thought Effax Leather Combi smelled like rubbing alcohol.....


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## jimmy

Nutty Saddler said:


> Leather is made from cow hide - it uses a process called tanning , which uses the tannic acid from plants ( tree bark is best ) . This process removes most if not all the natural fats and oils from the hide.
> 
> What we have to do is replace the fats and oils that have been removed. The natural oil content is very, very small - natural cow skin contains mostly fat - so that is what we should aim to use - fat - .
> The very best substance you can get for making your leather soft is - curriers grease - it is a combination of tallow ( rendered beef fat ) , oil ( cod liver is best ) and beeswax . The proportions are about 75% tallow , 20% oil and 5% wax. These should be heated up and mixed together , they form a greasy substance that can be worked into the leather.
> Sedgewicks , stubben , jeffries , all make a product that are very good and are close to this formula ( though they all keep their exact formula's secret ) .
> 
> Oil is bad for leather because it is a liquid and , leather can ( and does ) absorb lots of it - this breaks down and weakens the fibres . What appears to be leather softening is really leather weakening.
> 
> It is like putting a piece of paper into a bucket of water - it will go from being stiff to being really soft - right before it turns to mush and falls apart.
> 
> To my mind there are only two pieces of saddlery that have or use oil.
> One is a three fold girth that has an oil impregnated cloth inside it ( the leather absorbs the oil from the cloth slowly and therefore keeps the oil content low. The other is a crupper - these if made properly contain whole linseed - again the oil from the linseeds is released and absorbed slowly - again the oil is absorbed slowly.
> 
> I do not - and have never used neat oil on any of my tack. I was trained by a registered master saddler in 1992, who was in turn trained by a master saddler . Both he and Sedgewicks ( leather manufacturers ) do not advise the use of oil .


and i can one hundred percent endorse nuttysaddlers preperation because i am using it


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## RoadRider / Rios Dad

GoldRush said:


> Harness oil is oil made for leather...we were disagreeing about using _olive_ oil as a leather softener. Harness oil is great to use as a wipe on or to soak. Olive oil has tannins, so may actually dry the leather out, or weaken the fibers, since it basically continues the tanning process. It also goes rancid easily, so THAT would be nasty for horse and rider! LOL


 
My mistake. I thought we were argueing about all oil not being good for leather. I buy 5 gallons of Harness oil from the local oil supply house for about $55. It is made for leather and the amish use it all the time in soaking bathes. I just have it in a garbage can and soak all my leather in it. I wouldn't use olive oil either.
Sorry for my misunderstanding which oil we were talking about


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## GoldRush

No worries! I do it all the time...  LOL


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## ~*~anebel~*~

I've always been told never to oil strap leather goods. They can stretch and deform.
I bought a very expensive, hand tooled bridle made of very high quality leather. It was soaked in oil overnight (not by me!) and for YEARS leaked oil on me and my horse. I have the ruined gloves to prove it!
It has now finally started to act like leather instead of a soaked sponge after more than 6 years.
I have a double bridle from the same maker, in the same leather and all that has been used on it is Passier lederbalsam and Fiebings Saddle soap. Because it is high quality leather, it was easy to soften. It has not stretched (like the other bridle) and one can actually grip the reins!!
I highly suggest using a high quality leather conditioner. Leather CPR also works very well for poorer quality leather.


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## sillybunny11486

I've herd Glycerine soap works to get that oilyness out of tack.


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## Meaghan1011

I use Leather Therapy products on all my leather ,it does an amazing job of sofening the leather and also conditioning it to look like new for a show!


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