# Wooden Fence Post Question...



## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

For fence posts, best kind is pressure treated preserved posts, they don't rot. I have some in the pasture that are close to 20 yrs old, no rot. We cement in corner and gate posts only.


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## Lockwood (Nov 8, 2011)

I'm in PA and what is popular here is treated Southern Yellow Pine or Locust.
Cement the corners for sure and if you have the length to do so, drive the others below the frost line. 
If you are hand digging or using an auger then you may want to cement all posts.
The spacing has much to do with the type of fencing and the tension on the fence. New Zealand or High Tensile needs wood posts every 30 feet or so with smaller line posts in between. 
You can check the specs online for the type of fence you plan to put up. 

My brother does some fencing in Virginia and advised painting the bottom end of the posts that will be below ground with Kreosote, however it isn't something I personally want in my ground, but he says it will extand the life of the posts.


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

I agree, pressure treated posts. Also, I have found that the denser the wood, the longer they last. For example, my Dad built a roping arena a little over 30 years ago. He used both those posts that are round on 2 sides and flat on 2 sides and full round posts. The ones with the flat sides were naturally denser wood than the full round ones. When we finally tore out the last side of that fence about 2 years ago, the full round posts were slightly more rotted and had started to fall apart where they were separating between the rings of the wood. The ones with the 2 flat sides, however, were still almost new looking. 

What we did to remove them was to use the bucket/hayfork on our tractor, attach a chain to that and then wrap it around the post and then pull the post straight up out of the ground. Saves from having to dig up a broken off post.

Plus, if you want the new post in the same spot, makes digging the hole a whole lot easier :lol:.


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

We try to use pressure treated fence posts (they have a light greenish colour to them) where possible for corral and pasture fences. If you`re using posts for a building project, most certainly use treated ones and of the right size and they will last alot longer.

We have used two methods for doing fence posts: 1) post pounder - line up post perpendicular in the machine and let it do its work; it`s an efficient way for doing a bunch of posts; please keep hands out of the way when it`s pounding. 2) handheld gas powered posthole auger - not as fast as the pounder but works fine for a few posts; since it digs a hole, you pretty much have to do some filling and tamping after the post is put in.

With regard to cementing in posts, we have not done any of ours. For the corners in the pasture fence, we used a standard bracing technique to keep the corner post in place. For our gates (the big ones that machinery can go through), we use stub posting to keep the gates level and prevent undo strain on the hinge posts. Stub posting is a short post of a foot or two snugged up against the latch post so that the bottom of the gate rests on it when its in its locked position. Cementing is probably a good idea but, as we`ve got a budget on both time and finances, the stub post is cheap and fast to do.

I`m not experienced with electric fencing so cannot offer a solid comment on the distance between posts. My instincts tell me you could do the wooden posts farther than 15 ft apart if you put a light weight support post or posts in between to keep sagging to a minimum. By light weight posts, I'm thinking of the fibre glass electric fence kind that you can push into the ground with your foot. I should like to hear what experienced electric fence folks have to say on that subject.

Good luck with your projects.


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## CLaPorte432 (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks for the ideas everyone.

I believe I have a plan in my head. :lol:

Pressure treated posts for sure. I probably will be cementing the gates and corner posts. Concrete is cheap compared to what I'll be spending on the rope and posts for this new project.

Luckily we have a big tractor with an augar that goes 3-1/2 feet down. So that'll cut down on alot of work. I wouldn't even consider doing this if I didn't have we one. We do have thick clay so it takes awhile for even the tractor and augar to get through. :-x

I'll try to look around online and see if I can find a suitable distance to put the posts up. I prefer not to have any tee posts or plastic push in posts inbetween the wood ones.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

Use pressure treated posts. If your ground isnt too rocky or the clay layer isnt too shallow, you can use a post pounder. It is quick and easy. If you hit lots of rocks or clay, you may be better digging your holes or using an auger and adding some concrete. Use heavier (longer and thicker) posts to support your gates. Whether you use concrete or brace the corners depends upon the type of ground you have. 

As far as spacing, posts every 16 feet should work. Check the board lengths that are available in case you might switch to board or pole fencing in the future and space your posts accordingly. Odd distances may mean lots of cutting later on. When you put up your electric rope, don't skimp on the insulators. Screw them in if you can, rather than nail them. They will be much more secure.


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## maura (Nov 21, 2009)

I have 6 - 8" round posts, pressure treated, that we drove in with a post driver, just cementing in the corners. I have run 7 strands of high tensile on them, and we ran 20 feet between posts. You do not need spacers with high tensile if it's strung to the correct tension, even if you go 30 feet or more between posts. 

My fence has been up for four years with minimal maintenence, and there are no sags in the fence. Occassionally we tighten or loosen a wire or pound in a staple, but that's about it. 

Spacers or intermediate posts are used if your just running straight electric or electro braid with those kinds of distances between posts, just not necessary for high tensile. 

Here's a photo


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

The standard distance for polyrope is 30'.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## kccjer (Jul 20, 2012)

Just a warning about using treated posts or wood of any kind around animals. We recently had a mare get a puncture wound on her neck. No sign of ANYTHING being in it, but it simply would NOT heal. Couple visits to the vet, lanced it, drained it, kept it clean, etc...no healing. She rubbed against something and all of a sudden, neck heals up, shoulder opens up a wound. This time we actually sedated her and cut it wide open....found a 6inch piece of treated wood. As soon as it was removed, she healed within days. This piece of wood came from a trainers round pen and he'd never had an issue with it before.

Also, being from NW Kansas, we have never cemented posts. And most of our corner posts are not even braced. IF you can tamp properly (my hubby can't LOL) you should be able to get your posts solid enough to not need anything. We do use way bigger posts (12' or better) for corners so that does make a difference.


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## Cruiser (Aug 28, 2011)

We use ceder or tamarack trees for posts, but someone local cuts them off their Christmas tree farm, ours have lasted five years that we're had them, probably last longer. Down side, they weigh a ton. We get them cheap $1 each, bark on, so replacing doesn't get expensive.


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

I had new fencing put in in 2008. They used 8" diameter, 8' long treated posts, just like the ones I bought at the local farm supply before this to repair the old fence. NONE of my posts were cemented in. They could not have done so bc they put my fencing up in February.
I live on a property that was first built on and farmed 100 years ago. The previous owners cemented every corner post, and the cement is a [email protected] to remove. in FACT, I'm looking at a new transmission in my truck bc I dug out and dragged 3 of them (>300lbs each) to a new location. Two of them had a piece of metal stuck in them and HAD to be removed from new turnout areas.
If you use about 12" of cement it won't really do anything more than planting 3' in the ground does. _There are other ways to reinforce your corners._
I wanted to let you know about this ahead of time. NOT looking for a debate. =D


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

Just a slight side shift to the conversation due to Corp's post, a tip for removing things out of the ground with your pickup. Take a spare tire and put it at the edge of your hole (standing up). Tie off your rope/strap/chain to your hitch and the object while routing over your tire. This will cause the object to be lifted up and out of a hole rather than trying to drag it through the the dirt and out.


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## CLaPorte432 (Jan 3, 2012)

Corporal, thank you for the concrete tip. I will have to talk to my dad and get his opinion on everything. Looks like well be getting 8' posts, 8" in diameter, pressure treated. Theyll be sunk either 3 feet or 3-1/2 feet into the ground. Id prefer 3-1/2 feet myself. Our freeze line is 32" so 3 feet would be okay, but whats the harm in going a little deeper. 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

Many have that extra 6" so they can cut all the posts off at the same height. Of course you can do the same thing by making sure you put them all in at the same depth.


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## caseymyhorserocks (Apr 5, 2010)

Good luck with the fencing! After re -doing the barn, the next project is re doing the fencing - 3 board wood fencing!! Eek! (Runs off screaming like a little girl then returns go semi sanity) my dad works for a timber company so we fey a discount on wood.


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## Almond Joy (Dec 4, 2011)

Cedar posts all the way! They look rural, are cheap (We get them for free, we just cut them up off a friend's property), and they last forever! 

However, I must say, the pressure treated does look better.


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## Australian Horse Trailers (Aug 18, 2012)

For a cost effective solution that has safety high on the Pro's ledger would have to be Electrobraid. Post spacing can be 30ft and worst injury you can get is rope burn. Vets aren't cheap. This is my only my opinion.


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