# Breaking in a bridle?



## JaneyWaney9 (Jun 7, 2010)

I got a new bridle for Christmas (haha, I know. Long time ago. xD) and I'm trying to break it in now that he's not going to dirty it up with his winter coat and stuff. 
I tried him in it for the first time yesterday, and he was being really naughty in it (which says a lot. He just does not act up that way.). I think its because the leather was stiff and the pressure points were different than he's used to.

How do you break in a bridle?
(if this helps, its a Plymouth bridle from SmartPak)


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## AfterParty (Jun 4, 2010)

Oil it up ! 
Oil it once a week or every 2 weeks itll loosen it up. Also this will be super hard to explain but hold each piece in your hands and wiggle it around itll loosen it alot too .


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

yes - oil it once a week untill the oil rots the stitching and it falls apart, either that or the leather will go all mushy .

As a saddler I would only recommend a leather grease/dressing and regular cleaning. None of the leather manufacturers I know will advise you to oil your bridle and I know for a fact that some will not honour any guarantee if the leatherwork has been oiled.


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## AfterParty (Jun 4, 2010)

I obviously dont mean real oil . Saddle soap oil :S 
A horse person on a horse forum do you really take me to be that stupid ...
Thanks though .


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

I would never treat anyone as stupid - it is that over the past 18 years I have been a saddler I have seen people using ' Leather Oil 'or ' Neatsfoot Oil ' on their bridlework . 

Leather Oil or Neatsfoot should perhaps be used once a year, and then only wiped over lightly - it is a common beleif that Leather or Neatsfoot Oil should be used on a regular basis, I have even heard people advise others to soak their new leatherwork in the stuff . 

I always make a point when I make a bridle for someone that they only use a Leather Dressing on their new leather - I will not replace any item that has been oiled as oil weakens the leather and will rot stitching over time.


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## upnover (Jan 17, 2008)

NuttySaddler- perhaps this is a little OT (sorry OP if I'm hijacking!) but I've read a lot of your posts about never oiling things and it makes sense... but I grew up with the trainer who oiled EVERYTHING. CONSTANTLY. In fact, she never used any kind of conditioner, she oiled all of her tack. So that's what I grew up doing. I have bridles that are about 15 years old in fantastic shape. My saddle was about 20 years old before I sold it and it was in beautiful condition. None of my stuff (or her stuff) has ever rotted. It's all butter soft -which by your posts I think means the leather has turned to mush- but doesn't seem weak at all. I know you know your stuff, so I'm a little confused by your "don't ever oil anything" posts. I mean, if my stuff is that old and still going strong, is it terrible to keep doing what I'm doing?


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## upnover (Jan 17, 2008)

just to add.... my trainer taught me to always use mineral oil. something about it absorbing better? maybe it's different? i don't know. just curious what your opinion was.


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## AfterParty (Jun 4, 2010)

I heard that you should use saddle soap on just the saddle and there is special oil( soap ) for bridles as its on the more sensitive parts of a horse ?


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## justsambam08 (Sep 26, 2009)

I've always used mink oil on my leather. Works wonders.


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

Justsambam08 - mink oil is not really used in europe, I am told by others in the US that it is more of a grease than an oil, it's just called mink oil. As a grease rather than an oil it is OK to use on all your leatherwork.

Upnover - mineral oil is used by the tanners and curriers as part of the process to prepare the leather prior to dyeing and as such is not really bad for the leather, it is just the ammount used that is bad. After the dyeing process the curriers use ' curriers grease ' this is a combination of tallow ( rendered cow fat ), mineral or neatsfoot oil , cod liver oil and in somecases beeswax, the tallow makes up at least 75% of the mix so what you end up with is a grease - different curriers use a different that they over time have developed.

I will try to put it in terms that may make some sense - when you wash your car you don't take it to the local pool and submerge it, you use a bucket and sponge.

Natural oils are present in the cow hide , but the major part of the nourisment in the skin is a grease based substance , so what is recommended is to replace the grease to keep your leather in good condition.


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## chestnutponies (Jun 3, 2010)

Nutty Saddler,

Can you be more specific on the type of "leather dressing" that you recommend? Obviously, there are 100's of products and everyone has their own choice. I'm just curious and always looking for something better.


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

Most of the leather dressings are good - as long as it is a grease and not an oil - some use Mink Oil - which is not an oil but a grease , Fiebings of Milwaukee produce this ( make sure you get the paste - not the liquid ) - they also have an Aussie leather conditioner . Fiebings have been in buisness for a long time and supply the US services so their products should be good - I use their dyes myself and so far I am pleased with what I've been supplied

I get my dressing direct from the manufacturer.

Sedgwicks are one of the best leather manufacturers and they have their own dressing which is really good.

This is directly from sedgwicks



*Original Leathercare*

J & E Sedgwick & Co. Ltd take huge pride in the quality of leather it prepares for use in the Equestrian market. The company has rigorous procedures in place to ensure that leather is prepared to the highest standards - including an incresed focus on after sales care.

Part of this service includes being on hand to assess any leather damage, particularly if a piece of leather has broken or shows a marked change from its original state during use. In recent years there has been an increase in the number of cases that have warranted investigation.

The majority of instances of damaged leather can be linked to misuse or the incorrect care of the leather equipment, with the users allowing leather to become desiccated and brittle either from drying wet leather near a heat source, or by not cleaning or moisturing it sufficiently. An equal number of users actually over oil the leather. These common mistakes result in a radical change in the fibrous structure of the leather, weakening and distorting its substance.

In many cases the causes of damage in the leather have not been so obvious leading to Sedgwick's analysing the Neatsfoot, Saddle soap and leather dressing that can be found on the shelves of any tack shop or tack room. Sedgwick's discovered that many of these products had been re-formulated to suit modern manufacturing processes and consumer tastes. Therefore some of these products on sale today do not represent what was used in the past.

Consequently, Sedgwick's have developed and launched on the market, leather dressing that contains only these natural ingredients, including tallow, oils and beeswax. With Sedgwick's secret mix of leather dressing every day care for the leather could not be simpler.

A quick wipe over the tack with a damp sponge or cloth, leave to dry naturally and then apply the leather dressing sparingly to both the grain and flesh side of the leather. When dry, usually after two hours, buff the leather with a soft brushor cloth.








Manufacturer: J & E Sedgwick & Co. Ltd


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