# Temporary fence suggestions



## anndankev (Aug 9, 2010)

Hate to tell you this, but I've heard that a draft can just take a portable round pen with him where ever he wants to go. LOL

I have a round pen, and do not like it to be in a field with horses outside. What happens is when there are horses inside as well they squabble over the rails, and the panels get moved around.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

BigGirlsRideWarmbloods said:


> I'm at a loss. I can't pound a post in as I move them around often, and tradition temp fencing isn't working.


My local Fleet Farm sells fiberglass posts that are 1/2" in diameter and five feet long. If that isn't stout enough, I suggest you use T-posts. I don't know how often you are moving your fence, but if you buy both a pounder and a t-post jack, moving a cross fence is a pretty quick operation. I use t-posts in the corners for my portable fencing and move them a lot.


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

^^^ I would go with t-posts, too.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Saskia (Aug 26, 2009)

Can you sink some permanent wood posts in some key positions that will allow you to outline paddocks but when not strung up don't pose any real issue being left standing? Then move your tape around with more temporary posts but that are still structurally held up by the permanent ones?

Another consideration is getting a stronger electric transmitter as a deterrent for going anywhere near the fence. I've seen the difference a strong one makes.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

If the horse is that destructive, why worry about pasture rotation? Most pastures contain quite a variety of edible greenery which horses enjoy but at different times in the season. This in itself is natural rotation. I used to take one horse beyond the pasture for grazing on the lead from spring until fall and it was interesting that what he ate and left early in the season was completely opposite to his fall choices.


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## ChitChatChet (Sep 9, 2013)

T-posts and horses can be a bad mix.

You ever see a horse that got one stuck in his chest? You dont want to.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

ChitChatChet said:


> T-posts and horses can be a bad mix.
> 
> You ever see a horse that got one stuck in his chest? You dont want to.


Right, if you use T-posts be certain to top them all with the giant round insulators. I have gotten the best service from the Red Snap'r brand.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

Saskia said:


> Can you sink some permanent wood posts in some key positions that will allow you to outline paddocks but when not strung up don't pose any real issue being left standing?


I tried that once. My big guy ran into one of them in the night and snapped it off at ground level. That was the last time I ever tried to use a 4" green treated post. Now I don't like to leave any posts out that are not part of a fence line.


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## hollysjubilee (Nov 2, 2012)

BigGirlsRideWarmbloods said:


> I cross fence my pasture in to smaller sections with electrical tape for pasture rotation but I need suggestions for sturdier temporary posts.
> 
> I've used both the plastic and fiber glass kind but they're not tall enough or sturdy enough o deal with my mischievous draft horse.
> 
> ...



I had a draft that wouldn't bother the electric temporary fence that I had to use the first two years at this property, but if it's height you need, how about duct taping less expensive fiberglass posts on top of the ones you have, and extending them that way?

Also, at one time, I used fiberglass t-posts for an arena fence, and they were taller than the push-in fiberglass or plastic posts available at most farm stores. I put Toppers on the t-posts, and they hold an extra row of electric tape or wire.

haha . . . didn't read the previous posts, so sorry I repeated other suggestions. Did anyone suggest using PVC pipe and drilling holes in it or notching the top? You could drive posts in all over and just leave them there as you opened and closed fence wires with electric gate handles . . .


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## Zexious (Aug 2, 2013)

Subbing :>


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

Kencove has a 54" step in (total length I think is 62') but the height as long as it is at least 48" should be enough. I've use that or 50" for over 25 years and unless there wasn't enough of a charge to light them up they never messed with the fence. The drafts that is. Now I have had to get creative with a QH or two that walks through electric like it is nothing. That and a really hot fence should do it. That he has figured this out says the fence didn't have enough bite originally to keep him off of it. You may have to go with t-posts with toppers just to break him of the habit. With a jack they are easy enough to move. I'd also fill the toppers with foam to keep the wasps out.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

Coming through this thread for the second time I think QtrBel has nailed it. If your fence was hot enough your horses wouldn't be touching it. Three suggestions:

Make sure you have proper grounding for your energizer, preferably at least three six foot rods, six or more feet apart, in some soil that retains some moisture
Run two wires in your cross fences, one hot and one ground.
If you aren't measuring 7-9,000 volts at every point on the fence, get a better charger, like the Kube 4000 I use.









My little guy has a high pain threshold and an insatiable appetite. In the dead of winter with deep snow on the ground he would tackle the fence and end up at my neighbor's bird feeder. I replaced my hand-me-down cheap farm store charger with the $150 Kube unit, and rewired my three wire fence so the middle wire was ground

The minute I turned the horses loose the little guy walked right into the fence and started to bull his way between the wires as before. All of a sudden he stopped and backed up. He shook his head and started a second time, and got a shock that sent him tearing all the way across the pasture with wide eyes.

He has never gotten out since. Happiness is a hot fence.


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## Zexious (Aug 2, 2013)

^Great advice!


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## ChitChatChet (Sep 9, 2013)

On the subject of fence chargers... I prefer continuous shock to the pulsating shock.

My donkeys would charge through a pulsating fence but never a continuous. Found it works best for our cow too. Now with ponies and horses it works well also.

They touch the fence and the instant they do they get a "bite" versus pulsating they touch the fence, all is well and then BAM it bites them.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

PEL is another really good charger. I have one that listens for the pulse and can easily tell when a fence is on or off. Luckily she is content with where she is at as we have had a bad run of direct hits to our chargers lately. Picking up exploded charger parts still from the last one.


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