# Poor Man's blocker tie ring or Aussie tie ring



## mmshiro (May 3, 2017)

Isn't the point of the Aussie tie ring that the rope can slide to varying degrees as the horse pulls back, so it gets resistance, but won't panic? I didn't see that functionality in the video.


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## giddyup67 (Sep 10, 2017)

Exactly, the first tie is minimum resistance...2nd tie is hard resistance...3rd tie is no resistance


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

It's close, but the first tie still provides a lot more resistance than the least resistance tie with a blocker tie ring because of going in and out of the ring twice.


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

One of the forum members, a few years ago now, used a lynch pin (the one with the 'o' or circle closure) and a snap to accomplish the same idea. It was used the same way as the fancy tie ring and could provide easy release or more resistance.


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

Dont get why theyre called 'Aussie' tie rings when theyre just... not.

Anyway... it would be better with a smooth rope, but i too reckon still may be too much pull for starters. But an abseilers 'figure 8' is an effective cheaper alternative.


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

Dont get why theyre called 'Aussie' tie rings when theyre just... not.

Anyway... it would be better with a smooth rope, but i too reckon still may be too much pull for starters. But an abseilers 'figure 8' is an effective cheaper alternative.

Or for that matter, an old snaffle bit cut in half - obviously where 'blocker tie' idea came. Only if you carefully cut link of snaffle in the right spot, with narrow bit rings you can get it to hook on - one thing better than the blocker IMO.


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## george the mule (Dec 7, 2014)

Tie-blockers. Both of mine learned that if they pull back, the lead eventually slides thru and they're free. So (if I'm concerned about it) I have to add a solid knot anyway. $30 well wasted 
I just put a loop around whatever I want to tie 'em to, form a bight, and finish with a simple overhand knot. Zip, zap, done.
Mmmm, they'll untie this too if left unattended, so I have to run the end of the lead back thru the bight if I want it to be secure, but it's quicker and less involved than messin' with the tie-blocker.
It's gross, but I will add that a friend lost the tips of two fingers trying to tie a nervous animal with a tie-blocker; the horse lunged back, and her fingers were caught in the loop where the "blocker" should have been :-( Be careful with these things.
Steve
PS: If you are gonna make a snap-tie like that shown in the video (OP, you're gonna hate me), form a loop in the lead where you want the tie, push the loop thru the ring on the snap, and then pull the snap end thru the loop and snug it up. Then just attach the snap to the ring. This is quicker, and keeps your fingers out of the way.
PPS: I have rings attached to various places in The Barn, and near the gates with a strand of baling twine; if the horse really pulls, they will break the twine before damaging themselves or the structure they are tied to. Actually, what usually gives first is the sacrificial leather strap in their halter.


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

george the mule said:


> Tie-blockers. Both of mine learned that if they pull back, the lead eventually slides thru and they're free. So (if I'm concerned about it) I have to add a solid knot anyway. $30 well wasted
> ...
> Mmmm, they'll untie this too if left unattended,


To the last bit, yeah well, you have mules - they're smarter than the average bear. I did have a horse who learned to open chain-over-pin farm gate locks, so I had to literally hang the weight of the gate on the chain to prevent him. He did live with a donkey tho - who probably taught him to think!

To the first, I use setups like this - and even a large fixed ring in the wall can do the same trick - for training. That is, to begin with, you are on the end of the rope, to ensure that while it can slide & prevent the horse panicking, he cannot actually escape. You need to ensure you train them well to this & well past the point of feeling the need to back up, before thinking about leaving them unsupervised. I also ensure they're comfortable with 'harder' pressure before leaving them alone too. That said, I will only leave a horse 'loose tied' like that where it's safe to do so. I will ensure a horse is confidently trained to tie hard if we 'park' beside the road or such.


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## giddyup67 (Sep 10, 2017)

Method above works exactly like the Blocker or Aussie Tie Ring

#BigBadFlySpray


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