# Training Exercises for Unresponsive Horse



## ChestnutPony4Life (Dec 30, 2017)

My horse is terribly unresponsive to my aids and I'm running out of ideas. I ride him with spurs and sometimes a crop, but try not to use either excessively for fear of hurting him or making him spur dead. I try to change things up a lot when I ride, and we do different exercises and disciplines depending on the day. He's a little out of shape and it has been getting warmer lately (yayy spring!!) so that might be part of his extra laziness, but there's really no good excuse for this. When the vet came for spring vaccinations and a physical, she said there was nothing wrong physically and it was probably the heat. 

His walk and trot are okay, but once I ask him to canter things go south fast. His stride is very flat, and he just feels dead to my leg and general use of aids. You know the saying slower than frozen syrup? Well that's what it feels like to ride him right now.:cowboy: We barely have enough impulsion to make it over cross rails nicely, and any sort of bounce is dreadful. I come out of the ride discouraged and tired.

I really need something to change soon. He's okay in the round pen and on the lunge line, but when I'm on his it's a totally different horse. Does anyone know of any exercises to improve his energy and make his canter more loaded and springy?


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## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

What happens when he goes out on trails, or works on obstacles -- in other words, when he gets to do something interesting and fun for horses?


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## ChestnutPony4Life (Dec 30, 2017)

When we go for trail rides he perks up, but is still sluggish at the canter. What do you mean by work on obstacles?


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## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

Have you ever played games with him? On the ground or mounted? 

I guess I would suggest two things. One, learn how to reward the SLIGHTEST response to a cue, by releasing pressure instantly. Do this with the greatest vigilance and attention and you will find you are, slowly, creating a light, responsive horse. Horses become dull when they don't get a reward for being sharp. Also, don't forget praise. Let yourself feel happy with your horse when he makes any improvement. Set him up for success by giving him very low bars at first. 

Leave off the drilling. A little goes a long way.

Second, look for ways to brighten his day. Trail rides are good. If he's so slow to canter, try galloping along behind another horse. Whoop! Get him going!

Negotiating new challenges successfully makes horses proud of themselves, just like people. Challenge him to do new things, things that are a little scary. Arena obstacles like walking over tarps, dragging a bag, etc. are easy to set up. Probably you don't have access to cows, but if you did, nothing makes horses sharpen up like working cattle. 

This is my horse playing "soccer". She gets really into it.


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

Hi me. 

Transitions. Between and within gaits. Starting with walk-halt-walk. Stopping straight and light. Short intervals. Gets them paying attention. 

Ride with a dressage whip instead of a crop. When you do use it, make them jump off it. If you put your leg or whip on and they suck back, get. Them. Forward! It will be ugly the first few times. When my guy is feeling sluggy behind my leg at the canter, he likes to pop his butt up in resistance. I take both legs off and boot him(no spurs) and he jumps forward and we usually don't have to revisit that for a bit. 

Be wary of her fitness though. It's better not to canter If she's not fit enough, then to canter and allow bad habits due to being tired.


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## ChestnutPony4Life (Dec 30, 2017)

Wow she's gorgeous!


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## ChestnutPony4Life (Dec 30, 2017)

@Avna what are some examples of games you play with your mare from the ground?


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## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

ChestnutPony4Life said:


> @Avna what are some examples of games you play with your mare from the ground?


I've done clicker work -- touch the marker for a treat, put your front feet on a block, etc. mostly on the ground I work on obstacles and one-step responsiveness (because I'm a trail rider). Someone else who does trick training or liberty work might know a lot more. 

But the general idea is for you to model the behavior/personality you want. If you want a responsive, alert, happy, quick horse, YOU be those things first. 

And, some horses are going to be a bit dull and lazy, that is their default. These horses are more work to keep tuned up, and a lot of keen riders don't like them, but don't knock it! A quiet but obedient horse who doesn't look for trouble is worth his feed.


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## ChestnutPony4Life (Dec 30, 2017)

I haven't thought about clicker training much, I'll look into it further!!


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

Transitions transitions transitions! Prepare your horse properly and expect them to be INSTANT. You put your leg on to ask for the upwards transition, that horse better respond, or else. You lower your seat and touch the rein to ask for the downwards transition, that horse better respond! Transitions within gaits are also important - bigger trot, smaller trot. Bigger canter, smaller canter. Longer walk, shorter walk.

Now I am NOT saying beat your horse to within an inch of his life if he doesn't do as you ask. I AM saying, if he's ignoring you, the consequence for doing so is not strong enough.


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## Zexious (Aug 2, 2013)

Really great advice, @Avna !
Just out of curiosity, where did you get your "soccer" ball?


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## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

Zexious said:


> Really great advice, @Avna !
> Just out of curiosity, where did you get your "soccer" ball?


It's not mine. That photo was taken at a clinic. But my trainer uses them so Brooke knew what to do. They are a great confidence builder for green or timid horses, as they learn that this scary-looking, random-rolling object can be bossed around. And, moving the ball around is a way for a horse to learn how to "get underneath themselves" and rotate on their hocks, too.

I would google "horse play ball" or "horse training ball" and see what you get.


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## ChestnutPony4Life (Dec 30, 2017)

That is one of my biggest issues - he has no change of speed in one gait. His trot is one speed, his walk is one speed, and his canter has two - fast and flat, or slow and flat...


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

ChestnutPony4Life said:


> That is one of my biggest issues - he has no change of speed in one gait. His trot is one speed, his walk is one speed, and his canter has two - fast and flat, or slow and flat...


The transitions will help with that, specially ones like walk-halt-walk. Teaches to shift back and listen. After a few transition in quick succession, they should start thinking more about staying balanced for what comes next. This is developing the half half. You start asking for the downward transition, then before they do, push them on. The cue and time shortens until you develop a correct half halt. r


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## ChestnutPony4Life (Dec 30, 2017)

Thank you!!


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

ChestnutPony4Life said:


> That is one of my biggest issues - he has no change of speed in one gait. His trot is one speed, his walk is one speed, and his canter has two - fast and flat, or slow and flat...


Most healthy horses have some flexibility to them. Much more usual to have to try to keep the gait regular and in rhythm than it is to have no changes in rate. Flat gaits = stiffness. 

This sounds like a back issue to me...how thorough was the vet exam? 

I would take it slowly, work from the ground only until you can get him to change between and within the gaits easily. 

Would also do interval training starting with mostly walk and short periods of trot to build endurance. Do no canter work until he shows you that he is ready by breaking into canter on the lunge line when you ask for an upward transition.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Find something your horse likes to do, and integrate it into your training if you can. You can do a bit of groundwork/liberty work/clicker training before you mount, or after. Break up the training with things your horse enjoys. Keep training sessions short, and end with a trail ride. 

I'd still worry that something is not right though. Horses usually have extra spring in their step in the spring. The vet saying he's "probably" just responding to the heat isn't reassuring to me. However, if he picks up when he gets to do something fun, that's a sign that it isn't pain as much as boredom.


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## my2geldings (Feb 18, 2008)

Great to hear that you had his health looked at already. Very impressive, you're on top of things. Have you looked at what you have been doing lately? as in have you been doing repetitive activities? most horses can get quite bored with what you're doing and or show no motivation or energy because of it. A change of routine or environment can get him back to life and excited about what you're doing next.


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## DanteDressageNerd (Mar 12, 2015)

Presuming his health is fine. Saddle fit is fine, etc. I'd also take the spurs off. I never use spurs for "go," I use them as a refinement tool for laterals. 

When I'm developing a horse that tends to be behind the leg, I think if my leg touches the hair on the horse's sides I want a reaction. I also think of them rising up to meet my energy, whenever I teach a horse something new or a new response I always begin with my expectation in the mind and make it crystal clear the expectation. Transitions teach the response and show the horse when you do something what to respond to. If you're constantly using leg the horse learns not to respond. If you only apply an aid and make sure you get a response, then take it off than you teach responsiveness. Make the expectation very clear. If your leg touches the hair, he should respond. Have that expectation in your mind and follow through with the whip until you get a response. If the response was poor, transition down and get the response you want. You have to train for the response you want. 

Also note yourself, do you pump? Are you using your leg more often than you realize? Is your hip closed? Are you tight through your thigh? If you post high and hold the upward count a second longer does he respond? If you hold your core and sit in the down phase a hair longer does he shorten or slow down? Try counting your trot rhythm of one-two when you post. As you come up in your post apply your leg or whip, in the down phase half halt. Perhaps try on your long sides doing the biggest trot he can give you without breaking into canter and on the short sides, slowing down your post and sitting a hair longer then on the long side posting high and in the up phase a second longer and get that big trot. Same in canter. If he were a hot horse, I'd say lengthen on the short side, shorten on the long side but a dull horse lengthen on the long side, shorten on the short side.

Or you can take my ottb who is very sensitive and very-very hot. My goal is that he can be ridden by a non professional. I take my feet out of my stirrups and bump him and have a "loud" leg to desensitize him. I'm saying this so you can think of the ways that desensitize a horse that may be causing your own to be unresponsive. A quote I love from Charlotte Dujardin is "hot horses need to learn to be ridden with your legs on and lazy horses need to be ridden with the legs off."


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## ChestnutPony4Life (Dec 30, 2017)

DanteDressageNerd said:


> Presuming his health is fine. Saddle fit is fine, etc. I'd also take the spurs off. I never use spurs for "go," I use them as a refinement tool for laterals.
> 
> When I'm developing a horse that tends to be behind the leg, I think if my leg touches the hair on the horse's sides I want a reaction. I also think of them rising up to meet my energy, whenever I teach a horse something new or a new response I always begin with my expectation in the mind and make it crystal clear the expectation. Transitions teach the response and show the horse when you do something what to respond to. If you're constantly using leg the horse learns not to respond. If you only apply an aid and make sure you get a response, then take it off than you teach responsiveness. Make the expectation very clear. If your leg touches the hair, he should respond. Have that expectation in your mind and follow through with the whip until you get a response. If the response was poor, transition down and get the response you want. You have to train for the response you want.
> 
> ...


I have to leg almost every other stride, but alternate sides when I do. About the spurs, my xc trainer has told me many times "bring all your weapons, but only use them when absolutely necessary." I wear my spurs almost every ride, but only use them when pressure is ignored. He's pretty good at the slow trot  and his regular trot is fine too, but I really struggle to get an extended trot holding him with merely my seat - I don't want to pull his mouth, but sometimes I do have to half halt him because he will mistake my leg up into the trot as a canter cue.

What should he do when I stay up a second higher while posting? When I sit an extra beat he slows down, accordingly, but I see no change when I post high for a beat...


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## ChestnutPony4Life (Dec 30, 2017)

my2geldings said:


> Great to hear that you had his health looked at already. Very impressive, you're on top of things. Have you looked at what you have been doing lately? as in have you been doing repetitive activities? most horses can get quite bored with what you're doing and or show no motivation or energy because of it. A change of routine or environment can get him back to life and excited about what you're doing next.


In hindsight, it's been pretty repetitive. Every "lesson" I try to change thing up a little (circles, loose rein go where you please, ect.) but nothing really different. He loves trails even though the shadows tend to turn into scary monsters LOL


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## DanteDressageNerd (Mar 12, 2015)

ChestnutPony4Life said:


> I have to leg almost every other stride, but alternate sides when I do. About the spurs, my xc trainer has told me many times "bring all your weapons, but only use them when absolutely necessary." I wear my spurs almost every ride, but only use them when pressure is ignored. He's pretty good at the slow trot  and his regular trot is fine too, but I really struggle to get an extended trot holding him with merely my seat - I don't want to pull his mouth, but sometimes I do have to half halt him because he will mistake my leg up into the trot as a canter cue.
> 
> What should he do when I stay up a second higher while posting? When I sit an extra beat he slows down, accordingly, but I see no change when I post high for a beat...


And that may be the source of your problem. If you have to leg every other stride, it means he's been made dull and unresponsive. You should only apply leg (and dont alternate sides) when it has a meaning. If you constantly have to apply an aid it ceases to have meaning to the horse, making a horse duller and duller. Whenever you apply an aid, no matter what it is imagine the response that you want. If the response isn't what you want, take the aid off and reapply it. 

Half halts are necessary for balance and organization. When unbalanced a lot of horses do not want to move forward. 

I disagree with your trainer on bringing all your weapons. Over fences if it's a safety issue, sure but if it's a training issue I think the issue should be addressed. The spurs may be a part of making him duller to your leg as well. You really can train him to be light off the aids. When you sit in the aid an air longer you should expect a longer stride. So as you're coming up apply whip. 

Anytime you apply your leg, think of getting a response by just touching the hairs of his sides and if he doesn't response to that tap, tap, tap and follow with the whip until you get a response, then transition back and try again until you get that sharp response. And work him in a faster tempo than you actually want. If I have a horse that tends to be dull and they ignore my forward aid, I'll push them to be as forward as they possibly can in the given gait then allow them to come back and anytime I feel them get behind the leg I expect a way bigger, more forward trot than I actually want and exaggerate my expectation to improve responsiveness. 

If you have to nag and constantly use any aid excessively the horse is not self carrying. I'll say the most behind the leg horse I ever rode was an 18h wb who was 4 and his lack of forwardness was from being so big, awkward and weak. He had massive paces and no confidence in them. It took about 2 months but I eventually made him very sharp off the aid and very forward. But it took consistent expectations and riding him to be sharp.

With a flat canter I've often had to "create" a rhythm and "create" a canter on horses with a flat canter. 1, 2, 3 in your mind is VERY important. I use counter canter, spiral circles, shallow loops, leg yield, half halts, etc. And I think of using my hip not in a drive or grinding my hips into the horse's back but of lifting the horse's back up into my pelvis and inviting the horse's shoulders to come up as my hip slides forward. I lighten my seat and carry my core as my hip slides forward and invite the back up into my pelvis. It's very very hard to explain because for me it's a feeling I want that I re-create on the horse.

Half halts are essential to rebalance the horse and are used often in lenghtening and extensions to open the gait but not lose balance or rhythm.


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## horseluvr2524 (Sep 17, 2013)

FWIW, my mare had a serious impulsion problem because of saddle fit issues. Once I fixed that, she moved out, extended, collected, much easier to ride. Not saying that she doesn't still have her moments at times, I do still need the dressage whip at times, but she is SO much easier to ride since I fixed that problem. The problem was that the saddle was hitting her shoulder as she moved it back, so she didn't want to take long strides because it physically hurt her. Fixed that, she loves moving out now.


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