# Riding tips - How to keep lower leg still?



## SummerBliss (Jan 7, 2017)

I've been starting to ride more consistently again but I've noticed I'm having a bit of trouble with it and am hoping you guys can give some tips and advice. 

Basically, I'm having a hard time keeping my lower legs still when trotting. 

At a walk, I'm fine. I've only cantered twice with my guy since bringing him back into proper work but even so, my legs don't move that much. However, when trotting, I find my lower legs tend to swing around a bit and I'm not quite sure why or what I can do help with it. I know it can add confusion to horses and make them think I want to canter when I actually don't since my heels swing a little too far back. 

Also, tips for not bouncing around too much when doing the sitting trot? For the most part I can actually ride it without bouncing, but after several strides, it's like my body forgets how to do it and I go back to bouncing. Is it just down to practice? During this, my lower legs tend to swing a bit more as well. 



I'm thinking the saddle is part of the issue since it doesn't fit my horse 100% so I do have to put in a bit of extra padding to make it work which then makes it a little bit of an off angle for me so my body isn't always properrly lined up with shoulders, hips, heels. I've been trying to find a saddle to fit my guy for like 9+ months and non are fitting (he's a narrow TB with high withers and I live where QH are the most dominant breed). The saddles that look like would fit, are way out of my budget at $4,500+ and that's with me also looking into used saddles as well. 


So I'm open to any suggestions or tips you guys have to help with this! 
Or if you think it's mostly due to the fact the saddle doesn't fit me or the horse correctly and is messing with how I ride.

Pic of me on my big guy from yesterdays ride. This also kinda shows how the saddle has my position thrown off since it's pretty obvious my feet are in front of the rest of me.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

I'm on my phone but the impression is that the saddle is a poor fit for you both. A poor fit on one side or the other will cause some issue depending on where the fit has gone wrong. On both sides (horse and rider) puts you both in a bad spot. Do you have pictures of the saddle on him without a pad at different angles? Sometimes poor fit can be compensated for with padding sometimes not. 

Sometimes it takes just partial padding of a specific area. That said if it doesn't fit you either you are not doing yourself any favors as you recognize your position is off and the not feeling stable means balance is an issue. Do you ride bareback at all?

That pad is really not going to help. It I would say is also causing a bit of instability.

Feet are misplaced in the stirrup and should be with the ball of the foot on the bar. Could be you are like that to compensate.


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## SummerBliss (Jan 7, 2017)

QtrBel said:


> I'm on my phone but the impression is that the saddle is a poor fit for you both. A poor fit on one side or the other will cause some issue depending on where the fit has gone wrong. On both sides (horse and rider) puts you both in a bad spot. Do you have pictures of the saddle on him without a pad at different angles? Sometimes poor fit can be compensated for with padding sometimes not.
> 
> Sometimes it takes just partial padding of a specific area. That said if it doesn't fit you either you are not doing yourself any favors as you recognize your position is off and the not feeling stable means balance is an issue. Do you ride bareback at all?
> 
> ...


I don't have picks without a pad because the saddle is actually designed to have the pad built on with it. I do normally put the english pad on just for extra protection but I wanted to see how it'd feel if I put a western saddle pad there instead that. And I have shims that I'm able to add to make the saddle fit my horse (basically the partial padding that you were talking about), but I find it tips the front of my saddle up just enough that it feels off to me. And I've had my riding instructor help and this is pretty much what she's come up with at this point. 

And no, I don't ride bareback. His back is too uncomfortable to ride without a bareback pad but the pad I have slips super easily. Like, if I were to bend a bit to pick something up off a fence, that pad would just slip sideways. Also, my boy is 16.1 hh and I'm 5'4 so he's a bit too tall for me to hop on bareback xP 
But ya, I normally ride with the ball of the foot on the bar but at that point in riding, having my foot a littler farther in was a bit more stabilizing. 
So I guess it's basically the saddle that's the problem then.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

If your center of gravity is above your stirrups, your lower leg will be pretty stable. While saddle fit & balance can make things more awkward, it still comes down to center of gravity over the stirrups. 

Hard to see in the photo but if your stirrups were further back, your leg would be folded at a tight angle. You might try dropping the stirrups. It will allow your leg to hang more, and that will bring the stirrups back.

You also might be gripping with the thigh or knee. Let the weight flow past your knee and into the stirrup. Riding while standing in the stirrups will force you to balance above them. "Standing in the stirrups" versus "two-point" helps with getting the weight to flow down your leg and into the stirrup.

Foot position, FWIW: Imagine climbing a ladder. Where would you position your foot on the rung of the ladder? THAT is where your body feels most secure and where I think the foot should feel the stirrup. And standing in the stirrup will give you incentive to feel that spot.


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

I agree about the saddle -- yikes! It doesn't fit either one of you.

It looks like you ride Western, so I'm not sure how much help this will be to you, but I've found that getting up in two-point position really helps my lower legs stay still. Get up in two-point for as long as you can (it IS possible in a Western saddle, I've seen people do it), really thinking about sinking your weight into your heels, and then get back into your normal position. Like I said, I don't know if it really helps with Western riding, but it only takes a minute or two, so it can't hurt to try.


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## Interstellar (Feb 15, 2020)

Saddle fit can cause position issues and problems, but that should never be an excuse to poor riding. 

Your leg is swinging because it is not strong. You are bouncing because you are not strong in the correct muscles to hold proper position. 

You are balancing too much on your hand and knee if your leg is popping on and off the horse. I agree with @bsms on standing in the stirrups to find the center of gravity in your stirrup. That will help a lot, but so will actually riding correctly.

Every time you notice your leg moving, fix it. It's hard, and it's a lot of work, but if you want to progress as a rider you have to. 

Your leg from hip to ankle should be in contact with the horse. I suggest people try and not let the ball of their ankle move off the horse's barrel and that helps them stay very aware of what their leg is doing and where it is. 

You are also not sitting with your pelvis in the right position, so your leg is going to swing. You're sitting as if relaxing on a couch, not sitting up and engaging your muscles. Your pelvis is tipped so far back you're sitting on the pockets of your pants. I know old school trainers who glued thumb tacks to the back of saddles to keep kids from rocking back so far. (now with safe sport that is a no go, but it really did make a difference to get poked! lol)

Think of plugging your pelvis into the saddle like a three prong wall plug. You want both sit bones to sit straight on it, and the front of your pelvis (that lovely word _crotch_) to all sit straight and even in a triangle. This will help your leg fall steadily under you. 
















The top link is a great English position from dressage, the middle jumping, and the bottom western. All of them have the same seat and leg. It's classic and allows you to ride correctly.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

The basic illustration was taken from a Jane Savoie (sp?) book on dressage. I've altered it because I've mostly ridden on spooky, independent horses who may stop or scoot sideways without asking first. I find a defensive seat helpful. Don't compete in anything but cannot afford a fall. Not in my 60s and often riding in the Sonoran Desert!

I also go western and western riding tends to prefer a more forward leg. Maybe for the same reason I do. Still, the closer one's center of gravity is to a vertical line over the stirrups, the easier it is to have a steady lower leg.








I'm also no instructor, competitor, long time lesson taker or anything other than a backyard & trail rider, so take my advice with a big steaming cup of FWIW! I actually choose to move my legs forward or back, depending on what we are doing...but I can claim it is intentional when I do. Still....Bandit & I get along OK but we are what we are and nothing more:


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## SteadyOn (Mar 5, 2017)

Jumping saddles are for jumping. They don't put you in a correct position for seated flat work, and you will always be fighting to try to keep your leg back -- which is a losing battle. So you can't actually have a still leg because every time you shift your body, your leg has to fight the placement of the stirrup bars to rebalance you. The fact that it doesn't fit and the angles are off is making the problem a lot worse.

If you're not planning to jump, or at least not anything over 2', I'd strongly suggest looking for a dressage saddle. It will put you in a much much much better alignment for general riding.


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

Oh, and a tip for riding the sitting trot: it's easier (a lot easier) without stirrups. That's how I learned. Then you can add the stirrups in later.


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## redbadger (Nov 20, 2017)

ACinATX said:


> Oh, and a tip for riding the sitting trot: it's easier (a lot easier) without stirrups. That's how I learned. Then you can add the stirrups in later.


I agree. Working at walk and jog/trot without stirrups helped me have much quieter legs and feel more balanced. 

Sally Swift's "Centered Riding" has a lot of good ways of thinking of yourself in relation to the horse (physically) and how you and the horse fit together.


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

You will never win the battle with that saddle . it is both too small for you, and too high in front, putting you perpetually behind the motion. The only way it's in any way usable is stirrup free.


Really, stop fudging around with shims and things and seek a good fitting saddle that is the right size for YOU , too.


If you want to ride in an English style, but do not plan to jump, consider a dressage saddle.


Best of luck.


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

I was thinking... I understand about a perfect-fitting saddle being expensive. But to my uneducated eye, this saddle looks so bad that it might be worth it, if you could get something for a few hundred dollars, that is at least a better fit than what you have now. It wouldn't be perfect, or permanent, but I think riding in your current saddle is not a good idea.


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## SummerBliss (Jan 7, 2017)

Thanks for your comments everyone! 
@ACinATX
post 1
Thanks for the tip! I'll try doing some of that. And I don't mostly ride western. I've been riding whatever saddle fits my horse best but I do want to go more into English. And while I do have a western saddle, I've come to find that it puts me in a worse position than this endurance saddle I have does and it also doesn't fit my guy right. But either way, I'll definitely work on the two-point riding once I get things with the saddles a little more figured out.

post 2
I've done sitting trot without stirrups and I actually find that quite easy. It's once I toss in the stirrups that I'm thrown for a loop and my legs swing around more, though i'm not entirely sure why. And that's when I try to do the exact same thing as when I didn't use the stirrups. 


post 3
I have been on the hunt for a new saddle for like, 8+ months and everything I get I constantly get told it doesn't fit him. Or if it does, he's going to quickly not fit in it anymore once he gains more of a topline (which he's currently developing). I've tried brand new saddles from stores, old ones from other people, some that are in new condition but have been sitting around for a while, western saddles, english saddles, australian saddles, you name it, I've tried it >< Only once did I find the perfect saddle for my guy but then it fit me so horribly that I couldn't even ride more than 4 steps of trotting because it put my legs drastically more forward than the saddle in this pic does and wouldn't cooperate no matter what I'd do. And I tried that one out this week actually. So I have been hunting around and will continue to do so, but it's just not yielding any good or "good enough" results. It seems either the saddles fit me but are horrible for him, or they're nearly perfect for him, but are horrible for me. 


@Interstellar
Thanks for explaining things a little and including the videos! I'm aware I'm lacking a bit in the proper riding muscles so I am working on a workout routine of squats, planks and so on to try and improve that outside of just riding as well. But I'll definitely keep in mind the pelvis thing too and work on better position and everything else you mentioned as well! 
@bsms
Thanks for the pics and explaining things. I can definitely see where I tend to fall in with that diagram. 
@SteadyOn
The saddle I'm riding is actually an endurance saddle, not a jumping saddle. I do want to jump one day, but I've been thinking about getting an AP saddle so that I can do a bit of everything since I do want to dabble in dressage as well and also have something that's decent for trails, which is why I figured an AP would be great. I'll totally keep in mind the advice about jumping saddles though! Didn't know that they tended to work that way so thanks for the heads up on that. 



Everyone

Since a good portion of you agree saddle fit is one of the biggest problems, do you know of any good online stores to order from that will also take returns if the saddle doesn't fit? Preferably in Canada since that's where I live and don't cost an arm a leg as I lost my job due to this virus. Or if you have any other suggestions of things I could try doing (I will do exercises to build up my muscles to be able to ride better and try out other things you've commented as well when riding).


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## SteadyOn (Mar 5, 2017)

I would get on to some Facebook groups, and on Kijiji, to look for used tack. You'll get much better quality for your money that way. Sellers will often allow you to return them if they don't fit as long as you negotiate that up front. (If you do, make sure you take lots of pictures of the saddle when you pick it up so that you both know it's being returned in the same condition.)

Santa Cruz saddles are a great, well made brand that put you in a good position. So are Richvale, which I believe are actually the same make, but a Canadian brand, if I recall correctly. Santa Cruz makes some with adjustable trees. They have lovely dressage saddles, but even some of their close contact/jump saddles aren't built with a super forward stirrup bar, so many of them would be okay for general riding. The one my coach owns feels more like an all purpose and I find it easy to ride in. They're pricey new, but you see them come up used a lot on sales groups and you can luck out sometimes and get a decent price on them if you don't mind a little surface wear and tear.


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## Kalraii (Jul 28, 2015)

I have to agree with everything said.. if it were my mare I'd basically either ride on a bareback pad or bareback than in that saddle with that fit for you both. It's really sad isn't it? I know the feels :< I have a high withered girl as well....


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## SteadyOn (Mar 5, 2017)

I'll add, too, that a lot of the saddles that are listed as All Purpose or General Purpose are cheap makes of very questionable quality. Looking for "event" saddles will get you that AP/GP style but usually in a better quality brand.


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

I had the same problem (saddle fit) with my Pony. In the two years I've had him, I've ridden him in four different saddles that didn't fit. Each one caused a different set of problems. The last one made him lame, and he was out of work for a month.

I finally, finally found one that fit (a saddle fitter sold it to me; maybe you could see if there are any saddle fitters in your area who also sell saddles?). But in the two months between when he was able to be ridden and when I found the saddle, I rode him bareback (with a bareback pad). It definitely improved my seat and strength. It also improved my confidence. You might think about doing the same. You can take it really slowly so that it's not intimidating.

ETA: I also got the "don't buy a saddle while his body is still developing" opinion from several people. My reply was that if I couldn't find a saddle that fit, he wasn't going to get ridden enough to develop any muscles, so it didn't matter. If you get a saddle that's a little too wide now you can put a nice thick wool half pad underneath it until he develops more, and if you get one that's wool flocked you can have someone come out and custom fit it to him. Finally, if you get one that has an adjustable gullet it will be even more customizable.


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## mslady254 (May 21, 2013)

Once you get a better fitting saddle, you might want to try what helped me get a better lower leg. My instructor at the time, was saying 'toes in, heels down'...a lot....I was turning my ankle in to get the toes in, but my foot would immediately go back to the not good position. It was a constant, frustrating battle. One day, she paused me, came up to me and took hold of my leg, lifted it away from the horse's side, turned it gently at the KNEE and let it go back in place on the horse. Viola! problem solved. my toes stayed in, my lower leg became still (got praise from the other instructor when I went by him later--'nice and still lower leg, Fay') plus it gained the extra advantage of better contact with my inner thighs. Try this while just standing---turn toes inward from the knee (aka 'pigeon toed'), that shows you what to do in the saddle--lift/move your leg off/away from the horse (the whole leg,from the hip), then turn your knee inward -your toes will automatically go inward, then place your leg back on the horse, repeat on the other side if you don't feel co-ordinated enough to do both at once. 

I agree that lowering your stirrups a bit might help you get your leg in a better position as in ear,shoulder,hip,heel.

Finding a saddle that fits both of us is a huge and expensive job for many of us. 

Have fun, stay safe. 
Fay


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## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

Like others have said, your legs are a symptom of other problems. You need a saddle that fits both of you, for starters. I also had quite the chair seat with wiggly legs (in a dressage saddle, that fit both of us). What helped me was to understand that from the knee down, my leg should just be loose. The pivot is not the foot, it is the knee. If you are posting you lift from the knees not the feet. When you are sitting the trot, you are sitting deeply with a loose lower leg. Once your seat is independent of the stirrups it is a lot easier to still your lower leg; it's just hanging there unless you are telling the horse something. Riding bareback also helps. 

You might ask around for recommendations for a saddle fitter. Pick one that doesn't just work for a specific company.


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## Interstellar (Feb 15, 2020)

Okay so, I highly disagree that you can't get a good flatwork position in a jumping saddle. If you want to jump obtaining a proper position in a jumping saddle is essential. The dressage leg and jumping leg are very different in how they hang from the hip. If you want to jump, ride in jumping saddles.

AP saddles are trash. They are a mix of both and got the worst parts of both. 100% do not get AP. An event saddle is made for a very forward seat as they're typically a cross country saddle. Unless you're very long legged, or you're going mid level XC, you don't need one. Find a nice close contact saddle. Circuit makes generally good ones. I'd look into a used saddle. Saddles aren't that terribly hard to fit most of the time. I would suggest an 18" seat for you, around there, and then I would start trying to fit your horse. 
Even if you can't get saddles fitted right now, watch some videos and read up on saddle fit so you can assess saddles correctly when you can order them. 

Even if a saddle doesn't fit properly, you can still achieve a proper position. Look at the winners in IHSA - the saddles they ride in aren't fitted to them or the horses, they're school saddles. The horses are made sure they're fit as good as they can, but most of the saddles are 16.5-17.5" narrow twisted and slick. If you work hard and focus on your position, you can do it in anything, I promise.
If anything, it'll make your position in your new saddle even better!

Will a new saddle make a difference, yes. But it isn't going to be the only factor, so putting in the proper work now will really really help.

The reason your leg is changing when you add the stirrups back into the sitting trot is that you go to brace across the ball of your foot instead of sinking through your heel. Try and feel if you're curling your toes and gripping with them. If you can't wiggle your toes while you push your heel down you're bracing.


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## SummerBliss (Jan 7, 2017)

Thanks for all the info everyone! It's really helpful and definitely has opened my eyes even more to what's going on. I'll look into the saddle types you guys have suggested and see what I can find. 
I have been searching for saddles on FB and Kijiji and am getting nowhere with that. Every saddle I've tried through trials there hasn't fit, but I'll 110% continue the search. 

I did try what you guys suggested though about the bareback pad. I had one that didn't fit a smaller mare I had a while ago so I thought I might be lucky and it'd fit my big guy. Sadly, it still doesn't work. I put a saddle pad underneath as well to try to help, the pads just slip back. Without me on him, the pad slipped back to the point the front of the pad was sitting close to the middle of his back and literally all that happened was 15 mins of in hand grazing and it moved back that much on it's own and done up as tightly as possible (and no, it couldn't get anywhere close to being too tight for Sam to handle). 
So bareback is out of the question unless I can find a bareback pad that doesn't slip and again, haven't had luck with that either. 


pic from the start of our time today. Forgot to get a pic of how much it slipped back, but this shows what I tried to do anyway. Can't imagine how badly it'd slip if I was on him ><


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

Skip the bareback pad and see if someone has a saddle pad with a grippy underside and top where the saddle would sit. You do need a surface high enough to allow you to sit without shifting it. No girth. You'll find your sweet spot and take it slow to start. There are horses that have an aversion to that "grip" on the surface of the pad so my suggestion is to saddle up with it and see how your horse reacts. Have them walk and trot with it before removing the saddle and getting on.

Why such generalities and poor attitude. Again not everyone is headed to higher level shows. Not everyone can afford two, nor needs two saddles. Yes, there are junk saddles out there but they cover every style and are more a brand issue. 

If you will mostly be trail riding with some ring work find a saddle you are both comfortable in over the time you ride. Small obstacles on the trail won't be an issue. Riding in the ring to work on building muscle and finding a good position asxwell as putting time into your horses responding to cues won't be an issue. That could be a trail specific, endurance type or horror of horrors the dreaded AP. 

If you are looking to do some low level shows then an event saddle could be what you need. Some will have extended stirrup bars so you can change placement. Most won't. You'll have to change stirrup length for what you are working on and concentrate more on leg placement. Some saddle brands make that easier than others. 

Dressage saddles can make a comfortable trail saddle and work for flat work in the ring. If you have no interest in jumping anything other than the odd small hazard on the trail you would likely do fine.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

Add some pictures of him squared up and from different angles. Side, back to front, front to back.

Rounding him out with padding like that will cause more slip. 

I'll also say I have not had much luck keeping that type of saddle pad with the attached girth in place no matter the horse without feeling like I am cutting them in half.

For specific brands look at Black Country, Collegiate (with or without the gullet change system) and Bates. Also talk to Smith Worthington. Roma makes a wide variety of pads that can help with saddle fit while he is building muscle. They are very reasonably priced.


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## jgnmoose (May 27, 2015)

This is fairly long, but if you want to emulate near perfect western performance horse riding look no further.






The riding position described by @bsms as a "Defensive seat" is basically correct for western riding where performance (speed, turns, lead changes) are concerned. 

What is key is riding with and balancing with your core and seat. The more other parts of your body are involved the more unstable and less balanced you will be. 

I didn't look too closely at the saddle. I've generally had good luck with Ranch Cutters from Jeff Smith and Roo Hide. Either can be picked up for a reasonable price used if you need a different saddle.


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## Interstellar (Feb 15, 2020)

All purpose saddles are just not made to help rider position. They don't allow the leg to sit correctly, and typically influence chair seats. All I had for years was an AP and I was fighting it tooth and nail and left lessons in tears as a kid because of it. 
I've seen the same in countless others.

Event saddles - again - are made for eventing. If OP isn't wanting to event, why spend the money on a saddle like that? They're not made to go for flatting and jumping, they're made for eventing. Cross country and, for the lower level rider, stadium as well. Most upper level eventers have three separate saddles. Some mid level juniors with big talent will too, as they begin to climb the ranks. 
Event saddles typically have a more 'blocked up' fit as well, which locks a rider in. I wouldn't suggest that at this point as OP hasn't solidified their position in the saddle and know where to put their body parts. 

A mid range close contact is going to be the best. You can find them fairly reasonably priced and the thicker leather ones will last a lifetime. (I still have the Pessoa (before they got crazy priced) I rode ponies in... I'm sure my kids one day will ride in it). 
It really depends on your budget range and what you want. I'd always suggest a Butet or Voltaire but those are high end items.
Mid road, HDR's get the job done. Black Countries are nice, but will be blocked up a bit more than a close contact saddle and are all deep seated except for the new Solare. For someone learning, I wouldn't suggest a deep seat as you can feel trapped in it and fight against it. 
On the Low end Circuits at Dover are pretty dang good saddles. So are Collegiate's. I've ridden in both and they're pretty comfy saddles and last to a beating at my college barn. 

In the end you have to buy a saddle for what you want to do. A dressage saddle would be great if your focus is on flatwork. If you really want to jump, you can flat in a jumping saddle fine and it's better for your position. I do it every single day, even though I did 4th level dressage. I can get those movements in a jump saddle just the same. It's all about proper riding and cues. 

If you want to jump, get a jump saddle. If you want to pursue dressage, get a dressage saddle. 

FWIW re: padding - the more pads the more something will slide around. You're taking the back and making it rounder, which is more "slick." And sometimes things slip just by the way certain horses move. Some 1.60 horses can go without any breastplate totally fine, some need a five point. Every horse is different in the fit of their tack and the way they move. Some horse's even the best fitting saddle in the world will slide a bit. Especially if it's not flocked directly to them.


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## SteadyOn (Mar 5, 2017)

Interstellar said:


> An event saddle is made for a very forward seat as they're typically a cross country saddle. Unless you're very long legged, or you're going mid level XC, you don't need one.


My bad! I've obviously been misinformed on those. The ones I've encountered seemed similar in build to an AP but just MUCH better quality, but clearly there are key differences!


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## Interstellar (Feb 15, 2020)

SteadyOn said:


> My bad! I've obviously been misinformed on those. The ones I've encountered seemed similar in build to an AP but just MUCH better quality, but clearly there are key differences!


Happy to help! Look at how far forward their flaps are in comparison to a close contact saddle, and you can kind of see the idea. Also they're typically monoflap or monoflap like, which makes them so much harder to ride in for someone inexperienced. (I was there, tried one and could. not. canter. I probably still couldn't, honestly.)

There's a reason a lot of lesson programs stick to a good close contact saddle, they're classic and you can teach really well in them!


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

This is my understanding -


Dressage: deep seat, long and straight flap to accommodate a long leg and knee that is not significantly bent. May or may not be blocked but I see that trend here(blocks) for stability and proper position. Rider is upright and sitting deep. Not meant for anything other than this vertical placement so no accommodation for a bent knee that comes with jumping.



Close Contact: relatively flat seat rather than a deep seat. flaps are round, short and more forward, accommodates a two point or half seat position. Knee is bent significantly when jumping. Hunter/Jumper type saddle allows for a longer stirrup when showing on the flat but is made to primarily be ridden with a shorter stirrup, more forward upper body, more closed hip. tendency will be to lean slightly forward and sit above the horse. Body is not vertical. I've seen CCs that are heavily blocked and assume that is a trend here as well. Are you going to be changing saddle for every event with H/J (jumping vs flat) or will one use the same saddle through all levels. Perhaps this is the difference. In an H/J equitation class on the flat you are not expected to ride with the nuance that a dressage rider rides with nor will you be performing the maneuvers that you are training to ride as a dressage rider which eventually demands two saddles. One for the jump portions and one for the dressage arena. 


Event: deeper seat than CC, more forward flap than dressage but not as forward as CC or Jump saddle with more length to the flap than CC. Meant to go from arena (dressage) to stadium and then cross country for lower levels. Once you start moving up then you want to add a dressage saddle for the arena.


AP: runs the gamut from being general riding with out the added cost of a specialty saddle to having a flap or seat that lends itself more to one purpose or another but isn't so extreme it makes doing whatever style riding an impossibility (again we are talking for riders that don't compete or compete at low levels). You can raise or lower the stirrups for whatever your intended purpose is. They are going to be similar to the event saddle in that the flaps will tend to be longer but not as forward as a CC or jump saddle. 



Your saddle should encourage a balanced position no matter what the style and ideally will be targeted for the riding goal you have. How the saddle fits you and sits on the horse is also a good bit of the equation too. That will effect your seat. Is your horse responsive in the saddle with your aids? if so then you're on track.



There isn't any one choice that is absolute until you get to upper levels of any riding discipline and even then between brands you will find all kinds of differences and nuance that change how one rider looks and rides vs another rider in the same saddle.


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## NavigatorsMom (Jan 9, 2012)

I think you've gotten a lot of good advice OP. I'll just add my two cents. I started and spent most of my 20 years of riding in an AP and I don't feel that it has adversely affected my riding ability. Now, I didn't ever do anything as far as big jumps or showing - I think I maxed out between 2'6" and 3' - but I never felt hindered by that saddle, nor did any of my instructors ever comment on it. I eventually focused in on dressage as what I wanted to do and got myself a dressage saddle which is my primary saddle now (for trails/hacking as well as popping over a tiny jump here and there). If OP doesn't know for sure what area they want to focus on yet, a well fitting, used, AP saddle would probably be fine for the time being until OP decides, and inexpensive enough to not break the bank. Of course, I'm also choosing to do dressage with a forehand heavy draft cross, so what do I really know about making good decisions? :lol:

What I think would be excellent for you would be to go to a tack shop and sit in a bunch of different saddles. They can help fit you to something, and I believe some of them do allow trials (probably varies from place to place) so you can try something that fits you and then see how it works with your horse. I know, with the virus that is probably something you can't do for a while, but I think when it's safe to you should consider that. You also don't have to buy or trial anything at that point, but you can get an idea of brands and sizes that fit you and go from there. I've gotten both of my saddles off of ebay for less than $1000. Are they a little worn and rough looking, yes, but they clean up nicely and most importantly they fit both me and my horse. However I would say that ebay can be risky and I wouldn't do it unless I really knew the correct sizing for both myself and my horse. 

Once you get something that fits both of you I think some of your leg problems will lessen too. It takes practice and muscle memory to get them where you need them to be and it may take a while since you are just getting back into it, but you'll get there!


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## SummerBliss (Jan 7, 2017)

Thanks for all the advice everyone! I'll keep this all in mind as I continue my search. 

In the meantime, i think what I'm going to do is use the western saddle (I have a pad that fits it so it doesn't hurt the horse) and just take the stirrups off. That way the stirrups won't throw me in a horrid position. Then I can practice riding around without stirrups and work on building up those core muscles and balance. So then whenever I happen to find the right saddle that fits, I at least have the balance and position better already. 

Does that sound like a decent way to go about things? 

If I don't do that with the western saddle, that I just in general won't be able to ride since there's no other saddles in my area to try out. I can order saddles, but a lot of them aren't taking returns during Covid so if the saddle doesn't fit, I'd be stuck with it and unable to try anything else since my money would be sitting with that saddle. 
And like I said before, my TB's back is not comfortable to ride bareback since he's still working on building up a topline.


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## farmpony84 (Apr 21, 2008)

@SummerBliss

I skipped everyones responses (forgive me if I contradict or repeat).

From the angle of your photo I would say the saddle is definitely part of your problem because it appears to be too small for you. Are you using the western pad because it's all your have or to try to make the saddle fit better? (I'm curious). I think an english pad would work better with that saddle.

What is your plan for riding? English or western or you really don't care?

From what I can see in your picture you need to shift your lower leg back a bit and it looks like you are sitting completely on your pockets so you need to open your pelvis and sit a little less on your bottom. Your body position along with the poor fitting saddle is most likely your issue with the movement. Is there anyway you can post a video?

PS - I hate bareback pads (never could get used to them).


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## SummerBliss (Jan 7, 2017)

farmpony84 said:


> @SummerBliss
> 
> I skipped everyones responses (forgive me if I contradict or repeat).
> 
> ...



You didn't contradict anyone, but offered similar advice  

I was using a western pad to see if it'd help. I've used an English for the most part in the past so I figured I might as well try a western one and see how that would work. 

My plan for riding is that I'd love to go into English riding, but at this point, I also just want to ride in a saddle that fits since that's the biggest issue. And there are things I want to do in western as well. So I'm pretty happy to simply be able to ride, but at some point in the future, I want to do some more english, especially jumping or XC. But again, I do want to dip my toes into everything.

I have been considering video some moments when I'm riding to get more tips and advice, but I haven't been able to do it just yet. I'm also going to have a riding lesson tomorrow with someone knew who is apparently blunt and honest and that's what I need so I'm hoping I'll get questions answered by a trainer who'll see me ride in person as well. 

And thanks for the tips about how I was sitting, I'll definitely work on being more aware of my posture and such as well!


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