# Seeding Pasture - couple of questions



## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

First off, how big is the pasture? It can be quite the task to do a proper reseeding of a pasture. First it should be worked up with a cultivator or discer; then it should be left fallow (if you're doing it organically) for a number of months or alternative sprayed with a herbicide to kill off the weeds; by this time it should now be spring and it can be actually seeded and left to grow over the summer (you can pick between doing a cover crop of say oats or straight seed it); finally the horses should be kept off it for close to a year so the grass can get good root development.

Personally, I cheat with my pastures and you may want to do this for yours as it is quicker and cheaper. I mow the pasture with the mower set up fairly high - that is to top off the weeds to keep them from seeding themselves; by keeping the cutter high I haven't interfered with the grass at this point. For areas that are on the barren side, I just spot seed grass by either hand casting or using a tow behind seeder with the quad - the secret to making this work is to do it just before the rain starts so that the rain helps push the seeds into the ground. Doing it this way, I can also leave the horses on the pasture.

To answer your questions more directly -- spring is usually the best time to seed; type of grass will depend on your area (your local agriculture agency should have info on that) but I think it's always good to have a mix of threeish types of different grasses to take advantage of variations in moisture and soild conditions; and a year is usually recommended for newly seeded fields (with the exception of my cheat method).


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## BadWolf (Oct 12, 2012)

It's about 3 acres.
We're definitely going to have to do some kind of a cheat.
I can put them in the Winter lot for a little while, but there's no way we could keep them off it completely for a year.

Good to know on seeding in the Spring.
I also didn't know about mixing the different types. That makes a lot of sense.
I'll see what the Ag Office has available about grass.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

I have a quad, riding mower and a single set of steel harrows. Both the quad and mower and pull these. The harrows are the old style and are often picked up for $20 for a single. In spring, armed with 5 or 6 lbs of seed I'll start scratching the soil downwind. I'll turn at the end to come back alongside and let the breeze help me scatter the seed where the harrows have just scratched. I toss out small handfuls as the unit is moving. It always surprises me to see the new green haze in about 7 days.


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## Phly (Nov 14, 2012)

Around here, you can seed in any month that ends with an R. As for what to seed with depends on your ground and what you're wanting. Clover and rye are popular here. Along with fescue and crabgrass. 

Could just give it a tussle with some chain link fence and seed, then tussle again. Kinda depends what you're working with. 

As far as keeping the horses off, that depends on how heavily it's grazed. Or traffic if you will. Big pasture with lil traffic I'd say leave em in it, lil pasture with heavy traffic would be wise to keep em off a month or so. 


There's so many variables, you gotta ultimately figure out what works for your location.


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## BadWolf (Oct 12, 2012)

Are the "equine forage" mixes worth the extra cost, in your opinion?
Tractor Supply carries this one: 
GroundWorkÂ® Pasturelandâ„¢ Equine Forage Seed Mixture, 25 lb. - Tractor Supply Co.


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

When we did our big hay field (40 acres), it was definitely more cost effective for us to buy separate bags and mix together in the proportion we wanted. We used our discer/seeder (12' wide) so mixed up the seed in pails first and then dumped them in the seeder chamber. There were quite a few bags involved and a sore back when done but the field looks quite good now.

In your situation, especially if you're going to do a quicky type method (and may also be limited in storage space) it probably is worth it to you to get the premixed ones. The seed quality (ie germination rate) should be the same in the mixed stuff as in the separate bags -- you're just getting the convenience of not having to mess around mixing seed together. 

By the way, most quality seed companies attach expiration dates with their seed. This essentially covers their butts with regard to germination complaints --I think the expiration date is geared for using the seed within a few months of it being harvested (eg if it was harvested in the fall of 2013 they would suggest it be used for spring 2014). If you come across some bags that have passed their expiration date, see if you can get them at a discount -- most the of the seed in them will still be viable and grow. I can see a reduced germination rate being something of a concern for the farmer relying on it for income but it would be just fine for your situation.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Timothy grows well here. Often if the ground has been scratched with harrows, hay seeds will self sow as my bales are timothy.


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

BW .. that mix does not grow well here in CA in my area. It gets to hot. Look at what they state is in the seed mix, what type of grasses and percentage. The grass seed mix should total 100 % w/o weed seed. You could find a local seed supplier and ask them. Watch out for the fescues the get a fungus. Do not use Kentucky 31. You could look at TCS they have a livestock pasture mix and see what is that. I do not like the clovers, as they can cause photosensitive reactions on horses with white . You can google pasture seeds, and look at the various types of seeds that are available.


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