# Fixing up an Old Trailer



## Red Gate Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

I have a solid steel, two horse trailer with dressing room that is in need of a facelift.

The frame is good, the wiring is new, but the body has a lot of surface rust and a few spots where the rust caused a hole.

I was going to do the make over myself, grinding off the rust spots, treating with anti rust product, priming and repainting (good summer project) but I was wondering about the filler for those spots that went through.

QUESTION: After you putty the holes, prime and paint, when you haul, have you noticed that the movement of the trailer cracks the putty? Or does it stay pretty smooth?


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

I'm subbing for before and after project pictures. 

I can't help you much with your question other than to say if it is done with the same standard as refurbishing an auto then I think it should hold up as you see repaired vehicles on the road all the time.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Most cars if in a accident and having junkyard quality parts installed have a layer of "filler" also called Bondo put on and in the depressions to make it appear smooth under the new paint.
If put on correctly it does _not_ usually crack unless it has had a concussive hit from something again.
Bondo is not meant to fill holes, but to cover lightly the after effects of fixing that hole.

I would recommend instead of thinking "Bondo" think cut out and replace the sheet metal by brazing, welding, or riveting in new strong material...then you use Bondo to cover the material and make it appear smooth as glass...

Body work is a work of art or looks like junk.:shock:
It isn't _just _Bondo but sanding, re-applying Bondo again, then sanding then putting on a glazing putty then sanding, doing a prep to the finish, priming, sanding again, re-prime then re-sand with fine sandpaper...again a surface prep and then finally paint... guess what... many paints need a wet sanding too for that gloss and best look to appear...

A large project depending upon the amount of rust, holes and repairs you need to do...but very rewarding when done to stand back and say, "I did that myself and I am proud of my work!"...

Enjoy, good luck and have fun!!
:wink:


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

I would recommend a welder for your arsenal. Pin he's can be filled with weld. Cut out larger sections and weld in a new plate. 110v MIG welder are not that expensive and easy to learn how to use. 

Alternately you can kill the rust as you stated. Pop rivet metal plates over the holes to hide them from view. That won't be as strong or look as good as welding in new steel. 

Bondo isn't designed for covering holes or large dents. Anywhere you apply a thick layer of bondo will likely crack out. If you watch a good body tech you'll see they pull as much of a dent out as they can then put a thin layer of bondo on to smooth it out.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Red Gate Farm (Aug 28, 2011)

Thank you for the expert advice!

There are no dents, only a few holes that need to be fixed. I'll see how handy I can be with steel pieces :wink:

The surface rust should be fixable and if I use Bondo, I'll make sure I only use it on the minor places as suggested. 

I didn't realize how many sandings this would take! But I'll do as many as needed


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

When you go to purchase your "body work" supplies...try to go to a store that specializes in automotive paint and body supplies..._where the body shop buys from._
The people inside are extremely knowledgeable, can and will give you advice and tips to make your project as easy and successful as possible. They also have the freshest and largest selection of choices and that can also make a difference when handling Bondo...and the finished products appearance.

There is a method to mixing Bondo and hardener, they will explain that to you so you get it right and can work with it the easiest.
Also there is a succession when you sand of "grits" {that is the fineness of the paper itself}, they will explain what to use when and how to do it also...

I would suggest taking pictures of the trailer, {bring them with you} some close-ups and some distant pictures so they can see the damage and offer the best advice for you and the job at hand...
Not knowing where those holes are, how large they will be since you must also take off some of the surrounding rust area to get to clean metal...ask these same people about maybe using fiberglass resin and material to fill those holes... it may be easier for you, work better and offer the same structure strength you search to fix...
Rubber gloves are a must...fiberglass can itch, sticks to you/clothing and some have reactions to it similar to wearing wool against your skin........

When you get to the paint process...if you want it spray painted like a car finish is, not done by a Rustoleum can of paint...Maaco offers a car paint job for $299. It is no body work so all the prep you will need to do yourself but it may be something to look into.
If you are painting one color inside and out or only the exterior...well car paint is expensive by the time you purchase all the additives to harden it, keep if from getting "fish eyes" {looks like drops of water hit wet paint, yuck}....paper to cover the parts you don't want painted and facility and knowledge to put the paint on correctly... cost wise, time wise and energy wise it might be something to at least look into...

We want to see pictures you know of the project as it starts, progresses and finishes....please!


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## LemonZeus (Oct 6, 2013)

Yep, careful with the bondo. It ends up being millimeters thick, if that. I've worked at my dad's auto body shop for 7 years and I'm still not allowed to bondo anything :lol: Along with the hardener, there's yellow flexible scrapers you use to apply it. Don't worry about getting it perfect the first application, you'll sand 90% of it off anyway. We only use blue tinted hardener, but I've seen red as well, so you can keep track of your layers. And a tip for wet sanding, instead of wetting with the hose every time, get an old empty soap bottle and fill that with water, much easier and more precise than a hose!


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