# Truck options



## Zimalia22 (Jun 15, 2021)

My sister in law has a truck in that era. While half tons are bigger than they used to be, there is still no way I would consider using one to tow 2 horses. You just don't have enough truck to safely stop that trailer in an emergency. It's not "can it pull it", it's "can it stop it". 
Oh I know, there are some that will sure, go for it. But not from me. You need more truck.


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## ChieTheRider (May 3, 2017)




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## ChieTheRider (May 3, 2017)

Zimalia22 said:


> My sister in law has a truck in that era. While half tons are bigger than they used to be, there is still no way I would consider using one to tow 2 horses. You just don't have enough truck to safely stop that trailer in an emergency. It's not "can it pull it", it's "can it stop it".
> Oh I know, there are some that will sure, go for it. But not from me. You need more truck.


I was afraid of that but what about this truck makes it unable to stop a 2 horse so long as everything has breaks? I mean there's obviously the situation if brakes failed on everything but in that case there's not much you can do anyway. I don't even know if I would call this a half ton even though it technically is. Especially the Fords have gotten huge. It's nothing like the bitty things they used to be. The dry weight of this truck is 5500lbs. I probably won't even be hauling that behind me.


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

ChieTheRider said:


> Max tow capacity on this truck is 11k


Is that with a GN hitch or bumper bull? If bumper pull, I assume it requires a weight distribution hitch if you're hauling more than 5k. Be aware of that. 

Don't forget that mileage goes down as a vehicle gets older, so it won't get whatever it was supposed to get when it was new. My 2017 F-250 gets 14-16 mpg not hauling (that's actual numbers based on my own driving), so it's not any worse than what you are looking at.

I've narrated my horrible Pony towing story more than enough times, but suffice it to say when I got a truck I got one where I was sure I'd have more than enough truck for what I needed. A truck that can haul your horses on a nice flat easy road might not be able to do the same on hills. Or in the wind, or rain, etc.

Also 3/4 trucks, at least with the towing package, have the stiffer suspension in the back. Makes them less fun as a daily driver but much nicer to haul in. 

At the end of the day, in this market, I think you just have to get what you can afford and then drive accordingly. Get a weight distribution hitch even if you don't technically need one or are close to needing one. Drive carefully. Think about what you're doing with hills.

Does this truck have the towing package? I wouldn't buy a half ton without a towing package. But I was already a "better safe than sorry" person, and my terrible experience with Pony that one time sealed it for me.


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## dustyk (Nov 14, 2020)

I use exacly that truck to pull a 4 star 2 horse and a 3 horse slant stock rack. Absolutely never had an issue.
Don't "drive it like you stole it" a you'll be fine.


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## ChieTheRider (May 3, 2017)

Forgot to mention I live in the land of flat, aka Florida. I'm not hauling in the mountains or even long distances.


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## My Salty Pony (Jan 1, 2022)

A half ton truck is ok for a short distant like a visit to the vet if local, going to local events are just hauling down the road, but if hauling longer distant like out of town driving more then a few hundred miles then I would want a larger truck, I would look into the 3/4 tons, a half ton sure would get some wear and tear hauling for hours at a time. I always had haul with a 3/4 ton, then my truck got totaled when illegals ran a stop sign and hubby T-Boned them, after that truck I got another 3/4 ton Ford with a V10 great truck for hauling and loved the fuel too, lol, now I have my one ton Dually's. 
I'm just someone that likes a bit more truck and a 3/4 ton is what I would vote on for safety reasons.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

What many not know or do the research to find is when you add 4x4 you decrease the amount you can tow.

If you are that serious about this particular truck get the VIN and run it....understand what that report is reporting.

So, 2014 truck makes it 9 years old...the 2023 are out and orders being taken ages your truck again.
The truck being "local" doesn't tell you where it came from or what it has been exposed to during its lifetime..
You are sitting in the timespan when 150 did not have the heft of today's trucks to tow heavier loads.
A 150 is a light-duty truck and at this year depending upon what gears are in the rear end makes a huge difference in capacity for load & towing.
My biggest worry is has this truck been caught in the floods and come from a salvage title resurrected.
Has it sustained damages to the electrical wiring and what kind of warranty are you getting and what kind of a extended warranty are you putting in the vehicle covering you bumper to bumper, top to bottom...
Make sure someone has fully checked the frame as it is light-duty and they rust out easier.
All your components are light duty application = they can strain to handle the job presented when you tow loaded and you tow a lot....
Your brakes, cooling system, drivetrain, and suspension are made to actually cart humans around not the weight of a loaded horse trailer...
Not even going into gooseneck applications...for that if you are just forget it. Please....

So, googling quite a bit for information and adding as many details as you gave....The max tow added about 2,300 in capacity to your towing. So that dumps you right back to the truck is manufactured capable of around 8,000maximum.
This is what reads for the Max Tow package for 2021 trucks...2014 reads near identical.
_It consists of a 4-pin/7-pin wiring harness, *Class IV receiver hitch*, 3.55 / 3.73 electronically locking rear differential, 36-gallon fuel tank, auxiliary transmission and engine oil coolers, an integrated trailer brake control (TBC), and an upgraded front stabilizer bar._
So here come a discrepancy...class 4 receivers are rated for a max of 10,000 pounds, so why is a truck that is supposed to tow higher capacity *not* equipped with complimenting receiver of class 5................... oh yes, time to start to really dig...
What I found in the old specifications guide is you must be positive of gears in that vehicle and it must be a specific combination, not just because some blurb says it can...it must of been made to do from the factory or don't just don't...
You go from what you are hoping for in capacity to dumping down to between 5000 - 8000 in a hurry with just a single component off.
Not only must you have the Max Tow package you also must have the regular towing package combined to reach the higher capability numbers. 

Knowing where you travel "the land of flat" is _*not*_ as flat as you think. There are grades and hills and we have wicked winds and crosswinds you are suddenly going to truly feel...hauling several horses, their tack and food with water... now add the weight of a steel stock trailer you are teetering on the edge of should you or should you not.
When you put your trucks capabilities to the edges of what it is made to do then you add more wear and tear to the vehicle for needed maintenance.
F150 were made to be yuppie vehicles and people movers, the soccer moms car....
There is no comparison in ride when you go from a light duty truck to a heavy duty of the 250/350 line and the capability made into the frame, drivetrain and just everything else.

_Can you_ tow with it....sure.
_Should you_ is where you have to draw the line in your mind for a vehicle you plan on keeping for many years of not only daily driving but towing reliability...well, because you can doesn't mean you should is very true...

You have some serious decisions to make and think about.
Research what the different size in brake rotors and pads are, transmission cooler along with regular radiator..._how much larger and thicker the frame is 150 to 250 class size....there is a difference._
Look at how the hitch is attached, literally...on your back and look at it.
Then if you think you want take this truck to a super thorough shop and have it evaluated from top to bottom...
Average weight of the kind of trailer you mentioned empty is about 3,000 pounds. Can only go by what our horses weight which is 1300 each (shy 16 hand), then add tack and food/water....you are quickly pushing the 8000 pound number and you haven't added you or companions to those numbers either. And older stock trailers are often heavier not lighter, be aware they are made heftier when older *and* depends a lot on the brand trailer you buy...oh yea!

My friend bought a beautiful used 1500 _from a dealer off their lot_...she had a issue and took it to a different dealer closer to home to find her trucks frame was junk and she was told to take it back and never put any trailer to it...the frame was rotting from the inside out...when a bit more reading of the car fax report came back it was caught in flood waters...that truck was either a 2015 or 2016....
_Don't get caught..._make sure you have a super thorough inspection done and can live with the issues that are going to be told to you...the truck is 9 years old so _it better have some issues..._
Be a very well informed consumer....

I'm in the camp of not maxing my truck out. I would go with larger capacity of 250/2500 truck.
🐴...


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

horselovinguy said:


> So here come a discrepancy...class 4 receivers are rated for a max of 10,000 pounds, so why is a truck that is supposed to tow higher capacity *not* equipped with complimenting receiver of class 5................... oh yes, time to start to really dig...


Yes this is a really good point. Is the HITCH rated for 11k pounds, or is the TRUCK rated for 11k pounds? If the numbers for the hitch and truck are different, then the lower number is the relevant one.

And yes, look at the VIN of the specific truck, not the advertised rating of what a similar truck in the line might be capable of. What I mean is, maybe an F-150 from that time COULD tow up to 11k pounds, but that doesn't mean that THIS truck can tow 11k pounds.


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## kewpalace (Jul 17, 2013)

Per this article:



> *Weighty Matters
> •* When hauling horses (live cargo), stay below 70%-75% of the vehicle’s maximum tow rating.
> *•* Choose a tow vehicle based on the weight, size and type of trailer, and the weight and number of horses you’ll be hauling.
> *•* Consider the truck and tow vehicle as a single unit, and make sure all parts are compatible, including hitch, brakes and tires.
> ...


This article, and this one and this one may be helpful. lots of information online. 

Be sure to crunch ALL the numbers NOT just towing capacity and what you THINK your trailer weighs (empty and fully loaded). 

I have friends who tow with a 1/2 ton & are happy with it. Mine is a 3/4 ton; not sure I would tow with a 1/2 ton on a regular basis.


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## ACinATX (Sep 12, 2018)

kewpalace said:


> Be sure to crunch ALL the numbers NOT just towing capacity and what you THINK your trailer weighs (empty and fully loaded).


Yes, for instance, say your truck really can haul up to 11k pounds. But it has a payload of only 1k pounds, which is not impossible in a half-ton truck. Payload means everything that you put in the truck (including you) and it includes the tongue weight of your trailer. So if your trailer has a tongue weight of 800 pounds, and you weight 150 pounds, that means you can't have more than 50 pounds of other stuff in your truck. So no passengers and maybe even no dog.

And of course you don't want to shift weight around in your trailer to try to push weight to the back to reduce tongue weight, because this can increase your chance of trailer sway, and without the stiff suspension that a 3/4-ton truck has, you are a lot more vulnerable to trailer sway.

Sorry if this is stuff you already know; I did a lot of research before and after buying my truck, and there were a lot of things I didn't understand about weight capacity before I bought it. Choosing to over-truck myself meant that I didn't really have to worry about any of that stuff.** But I like to share it in case it helps.

** for instance, I was shocked to learn, after getting a trailer tongue weight scale, that my 4000 pound (empty) trailer had a tongue weight of 800 pounds! That's way more than expected. However, it was well within my truck's payload (truck has a payload of like 3k pounds) so it wasn't an issue.


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## 4horses (Nov 26, 2012)

I think an F150 will be fine. I tow my 2 horse trailer with an older F150 and I haven't had any issues. My truck's tow capacity is 5000 lbs, maybe slightly higher than that with a weight distribution system. Before this I towed a small 2 horse trailer with a Ford Ranger. That Ford Ranger is still going strong and it's a 1999... But it was retired from towing when I got the F150. Now I just haul hay with the Ranger. 

If you get a small 2 horse trailer (without a tackroom), your truck should have no issues (and will get better gas mileage). Also get a proportional break controller so your truck doesn't have to stop your trailer in an emergency. 

People think they need a huge truck to pull a trailer. If you have a huge rig, yes. But most people buy a huge trailer when they probably can get away with less. I have no plans to get rid of my 2 horse trailer for something larger. I don't want a bigger trailer. 

Make sure your trailer is properly balanced to prevent sway. A weight distribution system is great, if you can handle physically putting it on. I found it cumbersome and heavy, but it was designed for an SUV, not a truck and I finally sold it.


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## 4horses (Nov 26, 2012)

Look at tongue weight carefully. It can be as high as 15 percent of the trailer weight. The truck needs to be able to handle that.


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## boots (Jan 16, 2012)

ChieTheRider said:


> Forgot to mention I live in the land of flat, aka Florida. I'm not hauling in the mountains or even long distances.


That's what I was going to ask. How, and where, would it be used?

I purposely bought a 1/2 ton to pull 2 horses in a 3 horse slant bumper pull. I never wanted to be tempted, or asked, to haul downer cows to the sale barn. Or crew horses to mountain pastures. I drive slower than I probably need to, and give myself extra stopping room on the flat. I also get regular maintenance and checks done on it. Never had an issue in ten years. 

My truck was my life for several years doing remote healthcare. It was my primary vehicle.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

Zimalia22 said:


> You just don't have enough truck to safely stop that trailer in an emergency. It's not "can it pull it", it's "can it stop it".


A lot of modern trailers will have electric brakes. If the trailer has a 7-pin connector, it is for the brakes. If it has a 4-pin connector, the truck has to provide the braking. One needs to look at the towing capacity of the individual truck. It is a combination of many factors. There are some good YouTube videos of guys towing trailers at max capacity and what they found about handling, power and stopping. After watching a number, I'd be leery of going over 75% of capacity at high speed or in the mountains. OTOH, I wouldn't blink an eye at max capacity on one of the local dirt roads doing 25 mph.

In looking around, it looks like trailers have improved as well. Not just in brakes, but in better balance and stability. Unfortunately, the price of trailers has nudged me out of the market. I've pulled stock trailers with my friend's truck. Let's just say he doesn't sweat a lot about rated capacity - but he's been a professional driver hauling 130,000 pound trucks filled with coal, so his skills may allow him to get away with more than I could. I've only driven them on dirt roads.









Trailer Wiring: 7 Pin vs 4 Pin Connectors


Is your trailer wiring set up for 4-pin or 7-pin? Does it matter? It definitely does, so we’ve gone into detail about the differences!




drivinvibin.com


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## Zimalia22 (Jun 15, 2021)

bsms said:


> A lot of modern trailers will have electric brakes. If the trailer has a 7-pin connector, it is for the brakes. If it has a 4-pin connector, the truck has to provide the braking. One needs to look at the towing capacity of the individual truck. It is a combination of many factors. There are some good YouTube videos of guys towing trailers at max capacity and what they found about handling, power and stopping. After watching a number, I'd be leery of going over 75% of capacity at high speed or in the mountains. OTOH, I wouldn't blink an eye at max capacity on one of the local dirt roads doing 25 mph.
> 
> In looking around, it looks like trailers have improved as well. Not just in brakes, but in better balance and stability. Unfortunately, the price of trailers has nudged me out of the market. I've pulled stock trailers with my friend's truck. Let's just say he doesn't sweat a lot about rated capacity - but he's been a professional driver hauling 130,000 pound trucks filled with coal, so his skills may allow him to get away with more than I could. I've only driven them on dirt roads.
> 
> ...


I am well aware of all this. I would not pull a trailer that did not have electric brakes, but systems fail. I still want a truck that has enough to stop a trailer. 
I was a relief driver on a bull wagon so I have driving experience as well. I would FAR RATHER have more truck than I need, than not have enough. Things happen, and when you're on the road, you see those things.


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## Palfrey (May 29, 2020)

I read threads like this and think about my old Pony Club director towing all those years across NYS with a Jeep Cherokee and two horse "led sled".


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## dustyk (Nov 14, 2020)

I pull 53 footers and sets of 28 footers every day. I'm perfectly comfortable with my f150. It's not a big truck that keeps you safe it's the person in the driver's seat that refuses to overdrive, tailgate, etc. We routinely hook onto trailers that are bad need of a brake adjustment or repair. In a large fleet it's going to happen. The response is to drive accordingly until you can write it up for repair.


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## charrorider (Sep 23, 2012)

I'd say is truck has enough power to do what you want to do. But if you're concerned with the wear and tear on the engine, I would suggest you test the condition of the engine before buying. Try to find a mechanic, or someone with the proper tools, to do a compression and leak test on the engine.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

I'm reminded of when folks used to jump horses into the beds of pickups. I remember seeing them sometimes in my youth. I also remember towing a log/pole trailer for the Forest Service in the early 80s. I'm sure we loaded way over 10,000 pounds into it and hauled it with 70s era half ton trucks. And no, it didn't have any brakes on the trailer. Towing capacity was defined as "Can you get it to move...."

Of course, they were Forest Service trucks and we didn't worry if we wore them out. If the Forest Service expected them to last forever, they'd have bought us bigger trucks. Later, working for Utah, we towed trailers all over, including I-15 thru SLC. Our trucks had big engines but were half-ton trucks with 100,000+ miles on them - in the early 80s. The trucks groaned sometimes but if we could move the load, we towed them.

I personally have no intention of overloading my Tundra but the modern half-tons *can* have the towing capacity of one ton trucks from the 90s. If the manufacturer says it is safe to haul 10,000 lbs, then 7000 lbs isn't going to overdo it.


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## Elessar (Dec 28, 2011)

There is so much more to towing capacity than the simple numbers. You need to spend some serious time reading about towing, capacity and ratings. The biggest thing I learned about towing is the quote, "Just because you can, doesn't mean you should." I tow with a 3/4 ton Toyota Tundra and try to ensure that I have a 20% cushion below the maximum tow rating. We tow an RV camper as well as our horse trailer (obviously not at the same time).

You'll be surprised at the differences in trailer weights between steel stock trailers and aluminum horse trailers. You'll need to know dry weight of both truck and trailer, weight of your gear/tack, weight of your horses, weight of the fuel as well as the weight of your passengers when comparing to the capacity of the vehicle. Don't forget the weight of your hitch because most weight distribution hitches are very heavy; like a hundred pounds when you put all the parts together and attach it to the truck. Also look at the load capacity of the tires as well as condition. Tires age out and need to be replaced after about five years or so and towing puts a strain on them as well.

You need to know if the truck has a towing package and the body style changes towing capacities too. A regular cab often can tow more that an extended cab because of the additional weight of the steel used in building the cab extension. I strongly recommend you investigate 3/4 ton trucks for hauling. Included in the higher capacity vehicle is stronger brakes, heavy duty wheel bearings, stronger axles and stronger frame members. Most 3/4 ton trucks include transmission coolers and higher oil capacity for extended range and capacity. There is a lot of good information that has been offered in this conversation already and I would avail yourself to extensive study before you put down your money and make a mistake that you'll have to pay to change later. (I killed two F150s because I didn't understand towing and pulling and they wore out prematurely, one on the side of the road when it just quit.)

I know this is your daily driver and I know that fuel economy is critical but if you have a bad accident and someone or horses are injured you won't be worried about fuel economy, you'll be heart broken and paying medical bills instead (human/equine).

I apologize for being so blunt but I have made this mistake myself, twice, and I wouldn't want you to make the same mistake without first studying the problem is great detail. It is not a inexpensive mistake to correct...good luck.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

dustyk said:


> I pull 53 footers and sets of 28 footers every day. I'm perfectly comfortable with my f150. It's not a big truck that keeps you safe it's the person in the driver's seat that refuses to overdrive, tailgate, etc. We routinely hook onto trailers that are bad need of a brake adjustment or repair. In a large fleet it's going to happen. The response is to drive accordingly until you can write it up for repair.


I am astonished you write of " We routinely hook onto trailers that are bad need of a brake adjustment or repair. " as ho-hum...  
I too hold a CDL with the endorsements to drive most anything...
You just referred to you willingly agree to drive & be responsible for situations of danger...
What happened to pre-tripping your rig and if it is dangerous fix it or not put it on the road...
Create or be part of a accident and investigation and your company is going to hang you from the flag-pole...
You personally are liable as is your license and the points accumulated_ {in my state don't erase themselves} _and your personal vehicle insurance is going to love you for a minimum of 3+ years...

Most people do not have "your" experience and hopefully better ability to handle what may find them hauling down the road.
I'm _not_ against a light-duty truck to tow when all the others numbers fall into the range of being safe for your animals and you.
I'm much more comfortable though knowing the truck I use has a beefier frame, suspension, braking system and components for more weight load, a cooling system for all the vehicle components to not cook the engine or transmission lessening their life expectancy...
And when it comes to being a daily driver, yes it will cost you a bit more for gas but the trade-off is the way today's drivers are if, if you get creamed {accident}...that heftier is going to take a lot more beating because it is built with heavier than fold up like a wimp as today's cars and light trucks do and be totalled with very little offered in compensation to replace...
I would rather walk away with bumps and bruise than broken bones..
Yea, the next class up in size of vehicle is what *I* would get...

@bsms....today things _are_ way different than they were in the 80's in what we do because of what we have learned from those in the 80's....like you.
There are better, safer ways to do...
Even you said it...you don't overload the capability of your tow vehicle with what you tow and size of your animals on board...
Today we have learned to allow that percentage of unused capability be had so when the uh-oh happens we not hopefully need clean undies for having it scared out of us...
We have also learned you can not compare towing of stagnant weight to live cargo = does not equate.

The other piece of this is the poster_* is*_ from my state, but north of me...
Knowing the threat of hurricanes and evac orders _*are*_ given...her "I only tow on flat" is rubbish...cause she is towing upgrade and toward mountainous to get out if she runs I75 and if she runs I95 she is still pulling significant grades to vacate the state...and if she travels anyplace but next to home she will indeed find Florida _is not flat_ but has some very significant grades to pull the horses with a competently sized tow vehicle.. If she tows south she is going to encounter those significant grades too....everything between the coasts of Atlantic Ocean to Gulf of Mexico...all has grades and elevations, it is not flat. Its not mountains, but it _isn't _flat either.
What we do have a lot of is drivers distracted, not competent to handle their vehicle at high rate of speed even on back roads...and then you will find what being a bit to close or over the vehicle capabilities does when evasive action needs done. In this state we have 15 year olds licensed and driving at over 80mph on our interstates and not much slower on our side and back-roads...not because those are speed limits but because they do it, period.
By me, the vacationers & snowbirds come to town and we lose street signs that stand all year long are suddenly downed, run-over...and those recreational drivers driving what they should not because their ability and skills are not what they need to be are on all the roads, so those dangers are huge here for us now every month of the year.
Yeah, we deal with "things" many others do not in amounts we encounter.....
🐴


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

1/2 tons are fine but very limiting as to where you can safely haul. I live in a mountainous region with deer & Moose regularly jumping out in front of vehicles. No way on earth would I choose a 1/2 ton to regularly haul my trailer with a couple of horses in it. I used my husband's 1/2 ton Sierra with a factory tow package to haul to lessons, one horse in my 3 horse steel slant. It felt flimsy and not solid compared to my 1 ton. No way I could safely swerve or stop if I was going 40 or 50 mph and something jumped out in front of me. Recently I got the same year truck you are interested in, but 1 ton King Ranch Super Duty, gas. It had some issues but my son is a mechanic so the repairs were mostly parts only at wholesale which was under $5000 . I really wanted a diesel for the power but surprisingly I find no difference with this truck and the fancy leather interior with the King Ranch brand is a bonus. So just remember, if using a 1/2 ton, stick to the flat and don't go anywhere where you might have to swerve or brake suddenly.


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## ChieTheRider (May 3, 2017)

For reference I do have access to a F550 diesel that nothing short of a derailed freight train is taking off the road. When that truck stops, whatever's behind it stops. When it goes, you don't even know you're hauling. I don't see why they wouldn't let me use it instead of towing the camper to haul out the livestock 

I rode with someone to a barrel race with a 5.7 V8 Tundra and she says it hauls better than her 3/4 ton chevy. She drives super slow but we did have a moron pull out in front of us and she had no problem stopping fairly quickly (luckily it wasn't a slam on the breaks so the horses weren't thrown around). She was hauling an aluminum 3 horse slant with a tack room with about 3000lbs of horse inside. No issue. 

That being said after looking at my numbers I may just have to buy a small car now, pay it off, then get an older big boy to haul with. My pride doesn't want me to get a girly car but a little black camry or yaris but until something significant changes in this country (_cough_) I'm probably stuck with something that gets 35 miles to the gallon.

Makes me mad because I work on a farm and could use a truck and toolbox but not when I'm gonna have to pay 600 in gas a month. If gas was still $2 a gallon I'd be driving something with power in a heartbeat.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

Bottom line for me: Many current half-tons have GREATER towing capacity than the one ton trucks of 20 years ago. And the makers understand "towing capacity" includes radiators, transmission, balance, etc. I agree that if you can afford it, a one ton WILL outperform a half-ton! Of course. But not everyone tows daily or for thousands of miles. When it comes to safety, there is also a lot to be said for how we handled it in the 80s: If in doubt, SLOW DOWN. Your margin of safety goes up and your wear and tear goes down with a bit of patience.


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## ChieTheRider (May 3, 2017)

My grandfather hauls a steel 4 horse with an old chevy 1500. Like 80s or 90s. And it's nOT safe. Can you make it if you're careful? Yes. Did I have to hit the breaks on a wet road (trailer does have breaks) while hauling the 4 horse EMPTY and end up just not stopping? The breaks locked up or something and the whole rig just kept sliding on down the road. Lucky there was a shoulder and I had the sense to aim for it and keep going straight instead of overcorrecting or I would have mowed someone over. Can't imagine if I had 4 horses in it. The trailer drives that truck. So I know when to draw the line and not being able to control what's behind you is pretty much it. 

My dad's tacoma could probably haul about as well as that old chevy.


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## TrainedByMares (Jun 5, 2021)

bsms said:


> Bottom line for me: Many current half-tons have GREATER towing capacity than the one ton trucks of 20 years ago. And the makers understand "towing capacity" includes radiators, transmission, balance, etc. I agree that if you can afford it, a one ton WILL outperform a half-ton! Of course. But not everyone tows daily or for thousands of miles. When it comes to safety, there is also a lot to be said for how we handled it in the 80s: If in doubt, SLOW DOWN. Your margin of safety goes up and your wear and tear goes down with a bit of patience.


I disagree. F350 3500 series chev or dodge from 20 years ago are better than 1/2 ton whether old or modern







11.5 inch diameter ring gear, huge brake rotors,calipers and heavy suspension built for towing and hauling.

Towing with a 1/2 ton truck is fine until it breaks from the strain or someone pulls out in front of you and you really have to stop.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

The F350s of 20+ years ago were rated to tow LESS than some modern half-tons. 1999 Maximum for a 350 was about 14,000 pounds (dually) and many topped out between 9,000 - 12,500. Towing is far more than just how big one component is. My 2008 F-150 was limited to 3600 lbs. Had the same size brakes, engine, etc as other models with 6,000 plus rating, but the balance was wrong for that transmission combined with that engine.

I'm not discussing towing 20,000 lbs with a half-ton. I wouldn't recommend maxing out the towing capacity all the time either. Someone wanting to tow horses cross country or several days a week will want more umpphh! But lots of folks will tow a horse once a month. Or want the option to tow a horse to a local vet. I'd would like to do it a half-dozen times a year on local roads. The idea it is UNSAFE to do so doesn't match all the towing I did in 1980 using 1970s half-ton trucks - and the half tons of today are vastly better.

3 horse trailers weigh 3,000 to 4,000 lbs. Use 3,500 lbs average. My horses are all under 900 each. I wouldn't pick a half ton to haul 6,500 pounds from Arizona to Maine and back weekly, but a truck that is rated to 10,000 lbs isn't going to be unsafe hauling 6,500 lbs. 2 horse bumper pulls typically weigh 3,000 lbs. Down to 5,000 lbs with my two largest horses. That is NOT a load that will require a 3/4 ton pickup. If one can't safely haul 5-6,000 lbs using a modern pickup rated for 10,000 plus, one shouldn't be pulling any trailer in any truck.


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## TrainedByMares (Jun 5, 2021)

I think the towing capacity rating wars the manufacturers seem to be locked in now are like the horsepower wars of the 1960's. The sales department comes up with some exaggerations designed to sell vehicles. Engineering and Warranty departments cringe and cross their fingers.

I understand the conflicting needs of fuel economy and towing and of a daily driver versus dedicated towing vehicle. It's easy to say "well I'm only going so far" and I hope the OP finds a suitable vehicle that will be safe and give many years of trouble-free service but I don't believe a 1/2 ton truck is the way to go, even if it's within the rated towing capacity. I certainly do not believe a newer 1/2 ton pickup will do a better job than a healthy 20 year old 1 ton,all other things being equal.


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## Abb22 (Jan 13, 2022)

Yes crunch the numbers but, look at what the rest of the world is doing. It’s such a North American concept to need a huge rig. I’ve spent almost a year in Europe. In the hills/mountains and, the vast majority of people haul their two horses in Brenderups and Chevals, with their small SUVs. Yes, they are still making 6+ hour trips. Granted those trailers are lighter with better breaking systems. But they are larger ($$,$$$+) horses and with much smaller vehicles. This will be my next setup. If you don’t have that setup they have a horse van. Those just haven’t caught on here yet.

In my area of the US, F150s are the most common hauling vehicle. The only people I know with a 250 are people hauling cross country somewhat regularly. We never ran into any issues hauling with our F150. The low gas mileage was the reason we sold it. It was cheaper just to pay somebody to haul our horse than to drive it daily. But I also don’t haul my gelding more than a couple times a year now.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Abb22 said:


> Yes crunch the numbers but, look at what the rest of the world is doing. It’s such a North American concept to need a huge rig. I’ve spent almost a year in Europe. In the hills/mountains and, the vast majority of people haul their two horses in Brenderups and Chevals, with their small SUVs. Yes, they are still making 6+ hour trips. Granted those trailers are lighter with better breaking systems. But they are larger ($$,$$$+) horses and with much smaller vehicles. This will be my next setup. If you don’t have that setup they have a horse van. Those just haven’t caught on here yet.


Indeed...do look at what the rest of the world is doing and then look at what you will be doing here with what shares the road with you, here......................
I don't need a "huge" rig and don't have one.... I do have one that allows me to travel within the industry standards and accepted parameters of safety this country follows.
I don't care how much $$ the horse cost, to me mine are priceless....

So, Brenderup will _never_ be a trailer I will trust....sorry, fiberglass or composite made walls just don't cut it for protecting my animals. I know many have them, love them...not me.
My horse lets go with a hard kick....thanks not wanting to crack my wall nor have horses leg go through it.

I looked at the Cheval trailers....better to me than Brenderup but....
When I look at what appears a flimsy, bendable full partition between trailer occupants that is where the company saves weight. 
I liked some of the design then other parts,_ no._
Windows that use gas struts to hold open....first off not with a large/behemoth sized animal would that be safe in my mind.
When the gas strut no longer hold up and open at fullest...you just bonked a skull.

Sadly, when I took the time to do the conversions of inside dimensions of width, height.........my horses would not fit.
The dimensions came back as pony sized when inside width of 1.67m converts to 65.7in = less than 5'5" overall inside width.
Inside length overall is 3.2m converts to 125.9 in = 10'9" length....nose to tail my horse is longer just standing.
Those dimensions do not follow the American standards of comfort for our horses the AAEP recommends for horses over certain sizes, and I happen to own those sizes which are not huge, just average.
At nearly 1900 pounds empty{this is the lightest 2 horse they had} and a max of 5700 you have some wiggle room if your horse weighs in around 1300 which is about where many 16 hand horses average...that would be a average framed Thoroughbred or Quarter... not a draft or draft cross nor warmblood.
When you did the total weight conversions on the Maxi trailer my horses would max out the weight limits with tack, a bale of hay and 20 gallons of water on board.

What seals the deal _*against*_ for me is 14" tires it travels on....
When our cars, smaller SUV's forget trucks travel on 17" and today commonly 20" tires you refer to your trailer tire having to travel 1.5x more than the tow vehicle is called over-heat and explosion.
That smaller tire is a forget it to me.
I like why it was done for a lower floor to the ground so less slope to the trailer floor = shorter ramp....
The Ford Explorer, Edge. the Dodge Durango, Toyota and Honda_ {all SUV or mid size trucks}_ ....all those run between 17" - 20" tires stock from the factory. All those would also need large 6 cylinder engines and preferably 8 cylinder to not be the road hazard you will be thinking traffic is going to not ride your tail, or indeed hit that trailer in their haste to get around you...
But when you put all the numbers together then figure in your actual horses overall size and how they fit now in the trailers we have....
No....
Many of the cars we have in this country are also not a frame but unibody and that adds a new dimension of weight limits if you dare.

When you also will be sharing the road with the size vehicles _in this country_ used commonly for daily driving...
You do indeed need to drive by this countries standards _not_ overseas....
Not even sure our larger sized pickup trucks are common drivers their as they absolutely are here...and with being common so is the standards of what they are used for needs to be considered.
I'm also thinking the design of the cars overseas is indeed different to what is here although some may look the same, underneath they may not be...

I spent a lot of time doing conversions and really reading the website materials for the Cheval trailers they interested me so much...
But, there are just enough little things added together to make me very hesitant, then the smaller tire turned me off completely. I know what to small a tire has happen to it even traveling short distances how overheated they become when carrying a heavy load.
My wonderful computer also fed me articles to read once it saw what I was reading...
_








Sizing up your horse trailer


Here's three main factors to consider when deciding what size horse trailer will fit your needs – and the needs of your equine companions!




equinewellnessmagazine.com




_This pretty much summed up and put the finishing touches to my thoughts.
European design and accepted can/do work overseas, but I don't see them here ever gaining a strong foothold nor audience of followers.
🐴.... _jmo..._


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## newtrailriders (Apr 2, 2017)

We bought an F150 new in 2004. At the time we were rarely hauling horses - usually just a small 5th wheel camper, about 3500 lbs. We made the mistake of using that truck and trailer for a vacation out west, through Wyoming and Utah etc. That was a miserable trip - we were literally going 1 mph up one mountain pass - in 1st gear - and it was all the truck could do. I was afraid it would start going backwards! After that we only hauled the camper short distances with it. We wore that poor truck out. It wasn't built for that much work. 

After it died, we bought a used Dodge Ram 250 (3/4 ton) after that - I think it had 100,000 miles on it maybe and also got a VERY used Dodge Ram 350 (1 ton) dually) when we were hauling a huge 5th wheel. The 350 has over 300,000 miles on it now. We now use the 250 for my husband's daily driver (he's retired and doesn't drive much) and for hauling another small camper and the 350 is only for hauling the horses. We keep it hooked up to the horse trailer all the time, stored in the barn. It's total overkill for hauling horses - can't even tell they're back there.

We'll never by a 1/2 ton again. A 3/4 ton is plenty. With gas prices the way they are now I wish I had my old Prius back as my daily driver. A Prius and a 3/4 ton would be great!


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## RMH (Jul 26, 2016)

I'm assuming that you and I have similar problems in that we don't have unlimited funds. Many on this board don't have that problem and can own a super duty dedicated tow vehicle. The truck you showed will safely tow 2 horses and if well cared for should do it for many years to come. Drive gently, don't make jack rabbit starts and stops and it will be easier on the truck and your horse(s). A towing vehicle should have a receiver hitch, brake controller, and an auxiliary transmission cooler. I have a GMC 2500HD with a 6.0 V8 engine that gets 12 mpg running around and under 10 mpg when towing. Can you live with that kind of mileage and $5 per gallon gas? I can't so I have a Buick sedan that gets 24 mpg for when I don't need a truck. I just can't in good conscience drive a vehicle that gets 12 mpg when I don't need to. That's wasting resources and spending my kids inheritance. Ford 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder Eco boost engines are supposed to tow well and get 20 mpg but I have no idea about their longevity. Big trucks make up for a lack of common sense. If you have a decent amount of common sense you'll make out fine for what you want to do with a smaller, more efficient truck.


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## wo7777 (May 17, 2021)

Just my thoughts on fuel economy - you're towing a horse trailer. Um....what fuel economy?

As a mate of mine said about when he goes 4x4 driving - it's not about mpg, it's about gallons per hour

Size the truck to do the job, unless you can safely pull and importantly _stop_ , don't pull a horse float.

Saw this guy pulled over with a caravan , with smoke coming of his brakes. Clearly the trailer brakes had failed, but he had managed to stop. You need to plan for worst case scenarios too.

My 2 cents


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## wo7777 (May 17, 2021)

Just another thought on horse box/trailer/float safety......

If you can't afford to get it fixed, don't use it

You hit the brakes and the float comes up through the back of the pickup and pancakes the cab. It's not pretty.

The number of floats I've seen with mold, steel cancer and in just really poor condition just amazes me.

And the weird thing is, people tell you how much they love their horse, but then put them in an unsafe trailer that could go badly wrong.

Go figure.....


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