# Loose rein or constant contact for the spooky horse?



## corinowalk

I ride my spookies with a loose rein. My reasoning on this is a tight rein can convey tension to a horse. If you tense up, they think there is something to be scared of. I would ride whichever way made the horse feel less tense.


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## Eolith

Hmm, it's a fine line. In my personal opinion, I think the best would be to have a soft contact. Not tense, just "there" like a little bit of reassurance. Then, if you feel your horse eyeing something like he thinks it will attack him, you can just give a few little squeezes to say "I'm still here with you, pay attention to me and you'll be fine"


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## Wallaby

I think it really depends on the horse. I sometimes ride a pony that if you give him a loose rein, he will jump out of his skin as much as possible, while Lacey will do the same if she's ridden with very much contact. So I ride the pony with a lot of contact and I ride Lacey with as little contact as possible.


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## Ilovemyarab

Hmmm It's a problem for me too. My Arab mare is really spooked out by the trails in our back woods. I've been working with with her on and off for months just to get her so she's not jumping all over the place on the trails. It's hard because you want to pull back to get some control but not be pulling on thier mouth all the time.
BTW, if anyone has ideas about getting her less afraid on the trails they would be appreciated.


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## BackInTheSaddleAgain

Fine line... Agreed. 
Most of the time I would ride with contact. You kind of have to read the horse you're riding and feel if that's the appropriate way to ride it. 

However, if I'm on a horse that likes to throw it's head or hold it too high, I ride it on a loose rein.


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## BackInTheSaddleAgain

I like the word you used.... "Reassurance". Most horses need that when they're unsure of a situation. Most horses are looking for a leader and guidance when they are nervous. That's why I use contact on most green/ green broke horses I ride. Probably a bad analogy, but kind of like squeezing a pressure point to get your mind off of pain. 


Eolith said:


> Hmm, it's a fine line. In my personal opinion, I think the best would be to have a soft contact. Not tense, just "there" like a little bit of reassurance. Then, if you feel your horse eyeing something like he thinks it will attack him, you can just give a few little squeezes to say "I'm still here with you, pay attention to me and you'll be fine"


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## sandy2u1

I think its all about the feel you get from your horse. The more you have your horse on the trail, the better you will come to understand him and then you will be able to read his body language better. I personally will give my horse his head as long as he is body language is relaxed and quiet. When his head is up and he is acting a bit nervous and just looking for something to spook at, I like to have contact (this is also a good time to put your horse to work and get his mind back on you). When I am riding through a high risk area (a public place or place with lots of activity), I like to keep contact as well. If it were me, I would keep a little tighter rein and longer arms until you figure it all out. When you realize that your horse is nice and relaxed, give him his head. Trail riding should be fun for both of you. Let him relax when he will.


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## xxBarry Godden

This is a serious and provocative question, worthy of discussion. 

It would be interesting to have a poll of English style riders as to whether they trail ride (hack) :
on the buckle - what I take to be the long and low look of Western riders 
or collected - that is in contact with the bit and mouth following the horse's head movement 
or fully 'on the bit' with the horse in a rounded outline.

My wife has traditionally ridden out hacking with an 'on the buckle' stance but recently following lessons with a new instructor, she is now riding 'collected' in constant contact and she is steadily shortening the reins with a view to going 'on the bit' for most of the ride. When out hacking, she is now working the mare constantly so that it's brain is occupied and therefore it does not look about too much and become distracted. When 'bored' the horse 'plays at spooking'. 

Our mare DiDi has two faults which we should like to eradicate - she spooks (although she is rarely frightened) and she 'rushes'. Eventually it is hoped that we can eradicate both the faults on the trail and in the arena.

The theory is that with an intelligent responsive horse trained to go 'on the bit' - we control her every move and the speed and length of her paces. She is presently ridden on a very mild curved bar Myler bit. An attempt to control the rushing with a harsher bit has been discontinued - all the mare did was to resist the bit and harden her mouth. She is not allowed to speed up until she has been specifically given the 'body & leg' aids to do so. The hack becomes a training session. 

My old Cob Joe was a different scenario. He had never been taught to come down onto the bit and he had a tendency to ride with his nose up. What's perhaps more important is that the rider did not tell a surefooted, countrywise Joe where to put his feet. The rider allowed him to look about. I always rode him in contact and I followed his head with my hands, even though at times I would ride with both reins in one hand. If you shortened the reins too much he would lean and then resist until finally he would snatch the reins out of the rider's hands. He accepted contact so long as the hands followed the head/neck action but would not tolerate still hands and shortened reins. But Joe's bit was a Waterford - a much harsher bit than a Myler. The risk with Joe was that if you allowed him too much rein and freedom to move his neck then sooner or later at a junction he would whirl round and try to go home. Also if you allowed Joe to trot on tarmac on the buckle inevitably he would trip as he became heavy on the forehand. At the canter over rough ground he balanced himself off your hands. But Joe had a mouth of iron when he needed it. He was also cussed. To him arena training was a waste of his time - he saw his working environment as being out on the hillside. 

So we here we have two riders, the same environment but two complete different horses in schooling, experience, conformation and temperament. With hindsight it is obvious they have to be ridden differently. 

Didi is a ID/Connemara Cross broad backed, heavy chested but with a longish neck,
whose power comes from her foal bearing rump. She is a different horse altogether
Joe was a broad backed, wide chested, heavy set, big boned, driving horse who did pull as well as push. The top of Joe's croup was slightly higher than his wither. 

This question is interesting because it raises the matter of whether one should attempt to ride the horse both in the arena and out on the trail in the same style.
DiDi responds differently when she goes into the arena for schooling - for some reason she sees the arena as work but going out for an hour and a half of hacking along the lanes and up to the forest she takes more casually - as though such a ride is merely a walk in the park. 

I think the answer to the original question must be that you ride the horse according to the horse's training, the horse's conformation and the circumstances. There are times when you want it to be on its toes and then there are times when it can relax. With a fit powerful intelligent sports horse the rider also has to watch out for the horse's mood on the day. If the horse is agitated, then keep it on a tight rein. When coming home, let the horse relax, allow the horse its head and let it take a stretch.

Your comments please.

B G


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## White Foot

Loose, if the horse is spooky to begin with all you're doing is giving him more reason to be scared. If you had an indoor I would work him in there until you can get 100% comfortable with him, and can keep his attention on you. 

And if he's really spooky make your trail ride a very, very short one; my first "trail ride" is just walking the horse out of the indoor about 5ft, then we walk back in. Not until your horse is so relaxed going those few feet would I go any further. If I were you I would practice on how to get your horse back down again. It makes for a better horse and rider knowing that if and when your horse spooks at something and perhaps shys or rears, or whatever, you know you can get him back down again. Instead of riding him back to the barn all worked up and jumpy at everything. 

You can pick up your reins fast enough. You can have a hold on the reins without having contact with his mouth.


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## White Foot

Ilovemyarab said:


> Hmmm It's a problem for me too. My Arab mare is really spooked out by the trails in our back woods. I've been working with with her on and off for months just to get her so she's not jumping all over the place on the trails. It's hard because you want to pull back to get some control but not be pulling on thier mouth all the time.
> BTW, if anyone has ideas about getting her less afraid on the trails they would be appreciated.



Never pull back on their mouth, instead take your left or right rein, whatever one you feel most comfortable with and turn the horse around. A "one rein stop". If you pull back all you're doing is giving the horse something to brace against, which makes for a tenser/spookier horse that can keep going on in the buck or gallop.


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## kitten_Val

Interesting discussion so far. I'm riding english and I ride on trail "on line".  I mean I don't keep full contact like I do in ring, but I still keep some. Two reasons for that

1) My paint is spooky. I mean, I trail ride her for 3 years already, still ANY new thing (like new bridge, or fallen tree) makes her very unsure and takes us time to cross. I've never seen a horse that would be SO careful about where she goes and steps she makes (and I tried lots of new trail horses for the sell barn). I don't pull on her mouth, but I rather prefer to keep the reins short if she decides to jump over the obstacle (that happened before, VERY big jump from stand still) or shy on side. 

2) If I give a loose rein to my qh she drops all her weight on front and nose goes almost into the ground. With some contact I remind her to keep her head higher and work from her hind.


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## smrobs

I think you should ride however the horse is most reassured. I personally ride with loose reins all the time; however, I will keep them a bit shorter on green, spooky, or broncy horses. I like them short enough that I don't have to make a lot of adjustment when something happens. There is a method that I just recently learned for dealing with spooky horses and I have found that it will work wonders.

As opposed to re-writing it, I am just copying and pasting and I added just a little bit more:


> whenever they spook and move their feet, tighten them down into a tiny little circle almost like a one-rein stop but keep leg on them and keep them moving in that little tiny circle. It will sometimes feel like they are about to fall over and you will get dizzy but just keep them going. If they start getting sluggish, bump them a little bit with inside leg, outside leg, or both. Even bump them with a leg back onto their flanks or up onto their shoulder, that will help them to realize that you aren't going to kill them when you move a leg around a bit. Then when you are ready to stop (not them, you), switch sides and turn them in tiny circles the other direction with leg or bumping to keep them going. If he starts laying on your hand, just give him a little bump with the bit to get him off the bridle and don't stop turning a direction until you like where his head stays. If you do this every time he spooks and jumps, it is amazing how quickly he will quit finding ordinary things that he wants to be afraid of. Do this throughout the entirety of your ride. If he sees something scary, let him look at it so long as he doesn't move his feet but if he jumps or starts to bolt, start the circles all over again. You can drain the **** and vinegar out of any horse in 10 or 15 minutes of doing this and they seem to be less spooky and more attentive when they can't get enough oxygen. I used this on the little Arab gelding that I rode and the difference from one day to the next was like night and day.


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## RiddlesDarkAngel5

I usually keep soft contact when trail riding my arab. He does really well on trail, but he prefers to know that I'm still up there with him. It helps him, if he sees something scary, to know that I'm engaged with what's going on and ready to help him. It's a fine line though. Too much contact and he'll start to think something's wrong.


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## kitten_Val

smrobs said:


> As opposed to re-writing it, I am just copying and pasting and I added just a little bit more:


smrobs, how would you do it on trail when it's almost just as wide as your horse? I've seen similar suggestion before and always wondered how it'd work on trail where there is not space at all for even tiny circle.


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## smrobs

Ideally, it would be best to work on that in an area where there is sufficient space to get the spookiness under control and then hit the harder trails. I understand how unnerving it can be when a horse spooks and there isn't enough room to do much of anything except hold on and pray for the best. If you can work on it in an open field where you can put lots of scary items, the more you do it, the less spooky the horse will be, even in unfamiliar areas.


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## MyBoyPuck

Loose, but with my hands out in front of the pommel. That way if there is a sudden spook, I've got easy access to either rein just by sitting back or bringing my arms back. Otherwise, he's got his loose rein which allows for both of us to be relaxed and unrestricted for a nice relaxing trail ride. (hee hee)


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## kitten_Val

smrobs said:


> Ideally, it would be best to work on that in an area where there is sufficient space to get the spookiness under control and then hit the harder trails. I understand how unnerving it can be when a horse spooks and there isn't enough room to do much of anything except hold on and pray for the best. If you can work on it in an open field where you can put lots of scary items, the more you do it, the less spooky the horse will be, even in unfamiliar areas.


Yeah, that's the problem unfortunately. We don't have too much open space down here (unless you keep a horse in a fancy place).  So have to deal with what's around (ring and parks with set trails).


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## masatisan

Caleb can be spooky, but I still ride him with loose reins on the trail, if he spooks, my first reaction is to slide my left hand and open the rein. That way, I can take control quickly without pulling on his mouth, the bit just slides and pushes the opposite side.


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## farmpony84

I usually keep my reins just short enough that I can take contact immediately if need be. (if I'm on a spook-meister) on a quiet horse I am really bad about dropping the reins all together. 

The trick with a spooky horse is not to let him look around. It's ok to let him see something like a horse eating stump, let him sniff at it and what not but just walking down the trail you need to keep his attention and not allow him to let his eyes wander... that's when he'll find the gnomes and the pixies preparing to attack....


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## trailhorserider

On most horses, I go on a loose, loose rein. But I have found with my Foxtrotter, if I let her go on a totally loose rein at the beginning of a ride, she is all looky-lou, and if I ride with just a slight amount of contact and give her a little leg (just enough to keep her mind occupied) she is more confident and less likely to spook. By the end of the ride, she is relaxed enough to go on a totally loose rein. On my regular trail horse, my Mustang, we are always on a loose rein. I ride western.

On the rare occasion a horse spooks, I usually have too much slack to make contact pulling straight back, but both my horses neck rein so I just spin them around (disengaging the hindquarters) and we are good to go again! 

I am lucky enough never to have been on a true bolter that I couldn't stop (so far!).


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## Walkamile

Like a lot of you, with a truly spooky horse , I will maintain just enough contact that it reassures the horse that I am there for it. Not tight, but not overly loose either. After each spook, and quiet correction and then back to the loose contact. Eventually the spooks become milder and faster at regaining the horses composure. Then, before you know it the horse is on a looser rein. Of course prior to taking her out, I worked with her to get her soft laterally so to have control if she did spook. Took a bit of time as like most spooky horses, she was very bracey and tense through the neck.

This is what I did with a little over reactive mare that my friend (it was her horse) called "the run away bride". She'd spook big, buck and run for the hills before she even had a clue what scared her.

It worked well with her and fortunately I do not ride spooky horses on a regular basis. My two are quite calm and sensible, both will turn and face what is of concern to them. With them, of course, trail riding I'm on a looser rein.

As some one once put it to me, with these spookier horses, give them the opportunity to choose the right response. If they don't, correct , gently according to the action, and give them the opportunity again to make the right choice. This worked with that little mare very well. Just be sure that you are staying cool, calm and collected otherwise your reaction will only confirm to the horse that yes something indeed is very scarey. My friend has a tendency to shriek with any unexpected movement, so of course that can be a bit of a problem especially with a reactive horse.

Sorry , I kind of went on and on.


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## Jolly Badger

When a rider keeps their horse on a tight rein (whether it's English or Western), I think there's potential for a disaster if that horse trips, spooks, etc. Chances are that a nervous rider isn't actually asking anything OF their horse, they just think they have more "control" by keeping a tight rein. What they don't realize is that their tension flows right down the reins into the horse. I use split reins, so there's no "dropping the reins" for me, but most of the time on my own horse they are quite loose and relaxed and I allow him to pick his way through rocks or fallen-tree areas. 

The sorrel TWH my boyfriend owns (which I also ride frequently) is also one that I mostly ride in a relaxed rein BUT not as relaxed/long as with my own. He can be a bit of an airhead when the footing gets tricky, so I take up a bit more contact in those sections just to keep his attention. Otherwise, it's more like "step over rocks, step over rocks. . .ooh, look, a bird!" at which point he totally forgets about where he is putting his feet.:lol: 

I know a guy who likes to ride his horse "on the bit" on trail all the time - well, _he_ says his horse is "collected" and "on the bit," but basically he just uses a WonderBit and keeps the horse's chin in his chest the whole ride. The horse tends to be on the sensitive and quirky side to begin with, and I think the guy is one of those who kind of likes being seen as having this big, black "fire-breathing monster" because it somehow proves what a great rider he is.:roll: Apparently, it works, because most of the people at the barn think the horse is crazy; he fidgets and prances and spins and jigs any time we're standing together as a group and the behavior is never corrected.:? 

I've take that same horse out on trail solo and with others (with the owner's permission, of course!) and kept him on a much lighter contact and using a different (Robart's Walking Horse) bit. That "fire breathing monster horse" was quiet and well-mannered. At one point, my cell phone rang and I halted to answer it. . .the horse stood quietly, on a loose rein, and waited patiently until I got off the phone. Then I took up light contact again, and we were on our way. When we ran into a couple of hikers, the horse balked a bit. . .but rather than haul on his mouth and try to "control" him, I relaxed my own body and put my hands forward a bit. Like I said. . .he's a sensitive horse. . .and when he felt the reins relax rather than tense up, he relaxed as well.

Of course, the owner still insists that his horse needs to be "on the bit" at all times. . .and he still seems to enjoy having a "fire breathing monster." Oh well. . .:-|


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## Walkamile

Good for you Jolly! But the other part of the equation to me is that you are a calm and capable rider. That horse saw you as a leader and you gave it the opportunity to choose the right answer. Love that when it all connects!

Your story reminded me of a person that I took out on a trail ride. Apparently no one ever would and her husband loves to trail ride, so I volunteered to take them both along with one of my friends and one of their boarders. It only took 10 minutes to see why people would ditch her. She had that poor horse so choked up on the bit that it couldn't balance itself going up and down the varying terrains. Tried to tell her to give it it's head a bit for balance but she just shrieked about it taking off with her. Couldn't have been further from the truth. Horse had a calm eye and was trying it's darnedest to keep them both upright! Not to mention is wasn't about to leave the herd. Hopefully she will stick to the arena, she simply isn't cut out for trail riding. Way too tense and nervous.


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## Jolly Badger

Walkamile said:


> Hopefully she will stick to the arena, she simply isn't cut out for trail riding. Way too tense and nervous.


Yep - I know people like that, too. A friend of mine has a friend who is very much an "arena rider." And, she's apparently a good rider in that element. . .but my friend took this girl out for a trail ride while she was in town visiting, and the arena-rider was white-knuckled every time they went down a hill. And this is southwestern Ohio. . .we're not exactly talking about big, steep, tricky hills. According to my friend, even the horse seemed confused about what the big deal was. . .:lol:


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## Ilovemyarab

I am almost exactly the opposite...In the field I can get almost whatever I want from my horses, But in an arena I just feel...boxed in. Maybe because I started outside? I'm way too laid back for arena work. I don't care as much exactly where their legs go and all, I'd rather have a calm, sensible horse than one that is high-strung and knows what to do in an arena.


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## Walkamile

Ilovemyarab said:


> I am almost exactly the opposite...In the field I can get almost whatever I want from my horses, But in an arena I just feel...boxed in. Maybe because I started outside? I'm way too laid back for arena work. I don't care as much exactly where their legs go and all, I'd rather have a calm, sensible horse than one that is high-strung and knows what to do in an arena.


I can understand where you're coming from. I spent many years riding in arenas, and that was fine. But deep down, I'm a trail rider, loving the ever changing scenery and terrain. My girl T was a halter horse and then used as a brood mare and lesson horse. In the arena she was honest and always tried to comply with what I asked of her. But once out of the arena, she was truly magnificent! Her energy level is unwavering and she is sure and steady. 

After tasting this on the trail, riding in the arena seemed flat to me. Whatever I could do in the arena, I could do on the trail, and seemed to have more of a purpose. 

When I brought the horses home, it was only trail riding as I do not have an arena. Walka was saddle trained on the trail. He couldn't be more sure footed, and he's never known the even ground of an arena. 

I have since purchased a very large round pen, to use for those occasions when time will not allow me to ride down the trail. And wouldn't you know it, but Walka just shuts down energy wise and mentally. I have often wondered if it is because he doesn't get going in circles ect...without a practical purpose. But then, I remember that maybe horses don't think like us and it is probably a reflection of my boredom, not his. LOL!


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## PaintHorseMares

Walkamile said:


> I have since purchased a very large round pen, to use for those occasions when time will not allow me to ride down the trail. And wouldn't you know it, but Walka just shuts down energy wise and mentally. I have often wondered if it is because he doesn't get going in circles ect...without a practical purpose. But then, I remember that maybe horses don't think like us and it is probably a reflection of my boredom, not his. LOL!


I do think it is the horse. Our mares are all cow/trail girls and they are the same way...on the rare occaision that they are in a ring, they'll do what you want, but you can tell their heart is not in it.


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## Walkamile

Yes that's it exactly! I guess I'm well matched than with my two! :lol:


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## wild_spot

> When a rider keeps their horse on a tight rein (whether it's English or Western), I think there's potential for a disaster if that horse trips, spooks, etc.


What possible disaster? The beauty in contact is that it can be dropped in a second - But it is much harder to pick up a contact if it is needed. I see more danger in having no contact and therefore not much influence if the horse decides to bolt or something similar - It is not much fun fumbling for your reins while your horse is hightailing it.

If I am on a known spooky horse, I have a soft, elastic contact. If they are constantly tense, I will often do a little leg yeilding or bending to get the attention back on me. 

On my horses I know, I also know their reactions, and how I handle them - These I give a loose rein.


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## xxBarry Godden

Nowadays in Britain, English style riders are taught from the very beginning to ride
collected and to be moving towards riding 'on the bit' - regardless of whether they are thinking of moving into dressage.

Most of the older riders who decide to take lessons from most modern instructors 
are also taught to take up contact and move towards riding the horse 'on the bit' 
- providing the horse will accept and respond to being asked to 'go on the bit' and providing the rider can adjust his/her seat accordingly.

Any horse being ridden in this way can be given its head instantly by allowing the horse more rein and thereby more freedom of the neck. So when conditions permit the horse can be ridden on the buckle - ie a loose rein. Partly this is done to give the horse a break. But should conditions change then the rider will instantly take up contact.

Once one has come to ride 'collected' or 'on the bite' then riding 'long and low' on a loose rein perhaps held in one hand feels 'strange'.

A modern English schooled rider, visiting the US, being asked to ride a Western horse might well feel nervous out on the trail, in unknown countryside, on an unfamiliar horse, in a very different saddle. Such a rider would be tempted to take up close contact with the horse's mouth and with levered bits that would be inappropriate. Such riders, even those having their own horses back at home, should be shown how to adopt the Western style. 

If one visits a trekking centre in Wales, one invariably is asked to rides 'long and low' but otherwise in English style because the horse has been trained to accept riders of all competence levels. These horses are not used to being ridden 'collected' because many of the customers do not have a firm seat. These trekking horses are ridden in line and they are amazingly controlled largely by the voice of the leading rider - the trail leader (who very often is riding his/her own or regular horse which may well be trained to be ridden collected). 

In the semi rural environment of outer suburban towns where vehicular traffic is a constant hazard, it is wiser and safer to keep the horse on a short rein at all times. 
The theory being the rider contains the horse at all times and only lets it go when conditions are right. 

It is noticeable to me that many American riders learn and practice riding bareback. It is rare to see a rider riding bareback in the UK other than when perhaps one goes out to collect the horse from the field. No trainee is ever sat bareback even in the arena under tuition - the insurance companies would not like it.


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## PechosGoldenChance

I don't have constant contact, yet my reins aren't loose as in western pleasure. I have just enough time to react without having constant contact the whole time. For my mare, she hates having constant contact. I don't want her to feel like I'm completely holding her back, as I feel that it can make situations worse. Just loose enough, and taught enough to where I can react in a split second.


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## Amlalriiee

definitely depends on the horse. I tend to ride "on contact", but kind of loose contact, still relaxed not tense, but playing with the reins now and then to remind the horse to pay attention to me not the scary stuff. This works well for those that I ride...when I ride those 2 with loose reins they're like "AHHHHHH!!!! where's my rider?!?!? HELP!" hahaha or at least that's what I imagine them saying judging by their actions.


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## Curly_Horse_CMT

I ride my spookies with some contact. I want them to be able to look around but want to steady them. If they are not used to contact I think they learn to get spooky at this, too. Plus, when they spook I want to be ready =) Know this from experience: been there, done that.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## springinmeadow

I trail alone a lot (nobody to ride with) and I will occasionally move him from side to side of the trail maybe go back and then turn around back into the direction we were going. I have him do little exercises even when we trail. If he does suddenly jump I pull a one rein stop on him, its a tool I love. My reins never are tight nor do they drag I like some kind of contact (till I get lazy)


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