# Cow Kicking?!?!?! OTTB



## hrsrdr (Jul 12, 2008)

I think that maybe you just need to make him canter... If you end the session without any more cantering when he does that, he'll soon learn to do it in the future and it might escalade into a real problem. Do you carry a dressage whip when you ride? I think you're probably right that it's just behavioral, so get him going to the right first (OTTBs seem to have a phobia of the left lead and everything to the left in general...just something racing does to them, always running to the left) and if he resists when you ask for a canter depart, give him a firm tap with the whip. Just make sure that he is not too tired by the time you finally ask for a canter. Then when he gets the idea do it to the left too. That would be my advice...I had a mare that cow-kicked, although that definition of cow-kick was her lashing out to the side with a hind leg when you tried to pick up her foot. Horses don't usually do it as a natural response, except in extreme fear or pain situations, so it is very much an ornery, I-Don't-Want-To-And-You-Can't-Make-Me kind of response. You should try to nip it in the bud before he starts doing it as a regular habit when he is resisting...start by giving him a good whack with a whip or crop when he tries it! Sometimes OTTBs are handled rough early in their lives and so sometimes they try to get away with things when they are put into gentler environments. They can turn into holy terrors in the barn, so don't let yours become one of them!


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## westerncowgurl (Jul 14, 2010)

hrsrdr is right my horse use to pin his ears and i thought he would buck so one day i kicked him as hard as a could and he's never done it again


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## Kayty (Sep 8, 2009)

If you're certain it's not a result of pain, push him through it. If you allow him to not canter when he kicks out, you are simply re-enforcing that behaviour and it may result in the issue escalating and he may start to buck. 
The cow kick when you apply a leg aid, is the horse telling your leg to p*** off!! Just like a girthy horse may cow kick when the girth is tightened. Your best bet is to ignore it. You want to avoid getting into 'fights' with a horse, particularly an ottb, just keep you leg on and apply the canter aid until he responds, then take the pressure off, canter him for a circle, and then ask for trot again. Try to aim for 2-3 good trot-canter transitions before you finish, where he doesn't kick out. 
It shouldn't take him long to learn that there is very little benefit in kicking at your leg, as he's going to have to canter anyway. Does he lunge? It could help you to work him on a 20m circle around your trainer, and have her standing in the middle with a lunge whip. When you pick up canter and he resists by pigrooting/cowkicking, ask again and have your trainer flick the lunge whip towards him as you would while lunging him without a ride. It will just provide that extra incentive and a clear 'go forward' aid for him.
Also train him to voice aids, and make sure he is easily able to pick up trot-canter transitions on the lunge. If he is not well balanced on the lunge in the transition, this will be enhanced with someone on his back. No one is 100% balanced in the saddle and completely straight, so no matter who is on him it will affect his balance in some way. If you can work him on the lunge for a little while, teaching him how to canter through mainly voice aids and a little help with the lunge whip if required will really assist in your under saddle canter transitions. If he's fully aware of the canter voice aid, and you use that, combined with you trainer flicking a lunge whip at him, he'll have a clear message that he has to canter.


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## SaratogaTB (Jun 14, 2010)

I have a regular short "crop" but it doesnt scare him much. Why is a dressage whip better?

I agree that I just need to push him through and I plan to do that. I just have this deep seated fear that "pushing" him will result in a massive buck into the air! I have no proof of that at all, he hasn't done it or anything, its just my own worry. :-|

Also, he still isnt really strong in the back, and sometimes cross fires in his canter. I have been advised to walk and trot him up slopes to help develop his back end. OTTBs "pull" in their races, rather than "push", right?


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## SummerBreeze (Jun 17, 2010)

I am having the same problem with my new horse. He does not pin his ears back though. Instead he flings his tail a little and then gives a kick. Part of me thinks he is confused. I have checked his saddle to make sure it fits right. Plus, he does the same thing even when I ride him bareback. He came from a man who rode him western and was really rough, so I am trying to be calm with him. I have ridden him western some, but would prefer english. He is eager to be ridden, but he has his moments. Especially when he thinks we are going back home. I don't have an arena to work in. I ride in a big field across from my house. If I am trying to work him in a circle, he bends his body and tries to go in the direction of home constantly! Any advice? I am having to pull really hard on the his mouth to keep him going in a circle. He does not respond well to leg aids right now. He will throw his leg out during this too. I have been doing a lot of reading; trying to figure out how to help our situation. There are some many different opinions though.


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## kitten_Val (Apr 25, 2007)

How do you ask for the canter and how do you ride? Not trying to offense here as I have no idea of your level. My paint used to do it too: pin ears and kick out. And mostly because I was not a good rider and bounced on her back too much (since that I started taking professional lessons on lesson horses and bought a thinline pad to absorb at least some shock from my bouncy then butt). Also do you give him the rein as he moves into the canter or there is any chance you pull back or restrict his head unintentionally? 

If you are a good rider with quiet seat/hand knowing how to canter and no saddle/pain issues then it's attitude and as suggested just make him through it.


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## CanyonCowboy (Apr 30, 2010)

Kicking on the transition to a canter can be a sign of sacro-iliac pain. I've seen it in my mare. This article give a good description of it, and a way to diagnose the problem (which appears to be easily missed). Good luck.

http://www.horseproblems.com.au/John%20Konke/Equ%20No%209%20May%2006%20Formatted.pdf


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## SaratogaTB (Jun 14, 2010)

I am an experienced rider. I am doing what many OTTB experts advise: get up off his back...two point seat, give him lots of reign and ask him to go. Over time, I will be able to sit a bit more until be is better balanced. But even up off his back in a straight line, he "complains" with a cow kick or a tail swish or flattened ears. He trot work is going GREAT...I added tons of transitions and poles to trot over and that helped a LOT.

One idea I was told is this: teach him to jump a tiny cross rail, and let him canter out of it.....then lengthen the amount of canter time after the jump. Does that make sense to anyone?

I agree that he is just going to have to do it!


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## Valentina (Jul 27, 2009)

SaratogaTB said:


> I have a regular short "crop" but it doesnt scare him much. Why is a dressage whip better? It's longer and can reach more places.
> 
> I agree that I just need to push him through and I plan to do that. I just have this deep seated fear that "pushing" him will result in a massive buck into the air! I have no proof of that at all, he hasn't done it or anything, its just my own worry. :-| He's probably too lazy to buck :lol: - relax and make certain you're not inadvertantly telling him to stop by tightening up your thigh muscles when you ask him to canter.
> 
> Also, he still isnt really strong in the back, and sometimes cross fires in his canter. I have been advised to walk and trot him up slopes to help develop his back end. OTTBs "pull" in their races, rather than "push", right?


Correct. Lots of trot work will help - the cross firing is due to his unbalanced carriage in the canter. As he gets stronger it will improve and lots of good trot/canter transitions - where he starts sitting more on his butt and coming "UP" during the transition - will help. Always think forward and up for transitions.  

See red font above.


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

I second what Kayty posted. Sometimes, especially with a resentful horse, they will cowkick when leg is applied to ask for the canter, it is just something that they have to be ridden through. Most of them figure it out quickly.


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## hrsrdr (Jul 12, 2008)

Saratoga, everybody is giving great input, but I wasn't sure if anybody answered your dressage whip question...a dressage whip is better because you can give an INSTANT correction, instead of having to bridge the reins, then reach back and tap, causing a delay in response which might confuse him, and potentially unbalancing yourself and therefore him too...Kayty is right that any rider will change a horse's balance, and you want to minimize that as much as possible, especially when he really needs you to be secure and there to work him through it. A dressage whip will be a lot longer, so you just have to pull your hand away from his neck and give a quick flick with your wrist and there you go...It is an excellent tool especially for the canter. Use it with your outside leg to kick into the canter; a quick flick if he kicks out will likely cause him to stop it pretty quickly. You can buy one for usually like $20 to $25 minimum at a horse store like Dover Saddlery (they have great stuff that really lasts). 

Although now that I'm thinking about it, does anybody think that a dressage whip might make him kick out _more_? :-| He probably will kick reflexively a little at first if he's not used to it, but will that make Saratoga's problem worse? I've never had any negative responses with my horses, except for the occasional tiny buck of protest if I use it when I'm doing a hard dressage move, but I've never used one on an OTTB. If Saratoga's horse is already upset about cantering, could a flick in his flanks make a cowkick escalade into a bucking fit? What do you guys think? Usually a dressage whip stings a little more then a regular jumping crop.


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## hrsrdr (Jul 12, 2008)

I'm still with smrobs and Kayty though that I think he just needs to be ridden through it. I'm just wondering if a dressage whip is the best way to do that...


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## Kayty (Sep 8, 2009)

I use a dressage whip on my ottbs. Once they get used to the sensation, I haven't had a problem. Yes, there are other ways, but the OP doesn't sound to be overly experienced, we can tell her the more 'correct' ways of picking up canter on a difficult horse, but for a rider that probably doesn't have close to perfect balance and reaction times, a dressage whip will make life easier. Obviously you start out using the whip in walk and trot allowing them to get used to it as a forward aid before diving straight into canter with it on day one!
I do think that riding on a lunge circle with your trainer holding a lunge whip as encouragement should be the first step though.


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## SaratogaTB (Jun 14, 2010)

Ok, so we schooled today and I used a dressage whip. Tomorrow is our lesson with our trainer, so only my husband was audience today! Sousa was great at the trot, tried to lower his head WAY down a few times, but I have learned to give him no resistance. What I do now is set up a pole in the ring and whenever he seems distracted or feisty I trot him over it. That re-focuses him fast. He never cow kicked in the trot. In fact, he could have competed in a pleasure hunter class today. He moved that well. Tons of transitions, all good.
I asked for the canter and he either bucked or cross fired immediately. You just feel the back end come up like a rocking, so I'm not sure its a real buck. I steadied him into a working trot, asked again, and flicked the dressage whip. He cantered on the correct lead (left) around the ring once beautifully. His neck was arched, I didn't fiddle with his mouth at all. He slowly moved to a trot, I circled, asked for a walk, and we finished. I decided to end on a high note! 

I will talk to my trainer about lungeing in the canter tomorrow.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Kayty (Sep 8, 2009)

Fantastic to hear you had a good ride!!! Sometimes all they need is that little extra encouragement to pick it up, and the dressage whip is so useful for serving that purpose. You should find that he'll become more responsive all round now, don't use the whip every ride, but certainly carry it every few rides as a little tune up if he starts to go back to his old ways


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## SaratogaTB (Jun 14, 2010)

Another question I have is about shoes. He only has front shoes. When he came off the track, we decided to leave him barefoot in the back. Our schooling ring is very soft sand and if we dont ride there, we ride in a graassy field or on a dirt trail. He doesnt encounter any pavement really. His paddock is dirt/grass. I HATE how his back feet chip, but they are getting stronger and stronger between trims. Is it possible that not having back shoes is making it harder for Sousa to "push" in the back, thus creating balance issues, and causing him to resist? Just curious.


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## Kayty (Sep 8, 2009)

Nope, I have my boy shod the same, only fronts and backs left to fend for themselves. Hugo does have VERY good feet to start with though, but if your's are not falling apart and making him sore, there should be no problems with leaving him unshod behind. And it's a hell of a lot cheaper too!


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## hrsrdr (Jul 12, 2008)

Yeah I agree...the very slight difference in height caused by having shoes on only his front feet shouldn't bother him at all. I do it with my horses whenever their feet can hold up.


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## SaratogaTB (Jun 14, 2010)

WOW! WOW! My OTTB boy worked like a super star today. My trainer insisted that we try him over a cross-rail. I was nervous, considering we havent mastered the canter yet, but we did it! She set it up so he trotted 3 poles then the 4th one was higher. Just a wee bit....he NEVER balked once! he focused and trotted forward and lifted his legs. We didnt know how he would react to the bit of height, but he just lifted his legs higher, he didnt actually leave the ground. It was fun. We made it even a bit highter at the end, and he focused and "hopped" and did great. Only once he hit the cross rail with his back legs and they fell. We cantered both ways WITH DRESSAGE whip. 

Ok, so here is the issue, he started the canter both ways without his cow kick/crow hop...I think the threat of the dressage whip helped. BUT, I felt like we were in absolute slow motion. It was like "pumping" to keep him going. Does anyone know what I mean? I felt like I had run a marathon to circle the ring once. He couldnt wait to stop. 

So, you should know it was 90 degrees F and humid in Washington DC, but our ring is under shade and we took lots of breaks. The heat was definitely something we monitored, both for me and him. 

This is an EX RACEHORSE! He doesnt want to go fast! (ok, that's why he's an ex racehorse maybe) but c'mon, why the slow motion canter that takes every bit of my energy? I am VERy happy he trotted like a star today. My trainer said he could have won a hunter trot class today. She said he is "all hunter"...which is PERFECT! (btw: she is an expert dressage trainer....a real pro and super nice!)

Any tips on how to teach him that you dont canter slower than a walk?:wink:


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## Kayty (Sep 8, 2009)

Legs on, give your reins and if he doesn't want to go, try another little flick on the inside hind with your whip to sharper him up  Also you could try cantering him around the outside of the arena with long reins, sit forward and off his back a little until he know's it's fine to go forward. He may just be a little nervous in canter still and need a bit of encouragement 

Very glad to hear that he's going so well now!


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## hrsrdr (Jul 12, 2008)

DON'T LET YOURSELF PUMP HIM! I know exactly what you mean, our Mustang used to make me do that every time I cantered him. But it gets you into a bad habit, makes you busy all the time, and if you let yourself do it, you will just start doing it automatically every time you feel your horse canter. If you want to train him out of it, just squeeze with your outside leg ever time he starts to slow, and then a kick if he doesn't listen, and then immediately the dressage whip if he is STILL trying to stop. Don't let yourself drive him with your seat and legs. It is odd that he is doing that though...maybe it was just the heat. Congrats on your progress though! Just do not let yourself drive him every canter step...after all HE is the one cantering, not you!


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## Kayty (Sep 8, 2009)

hrsrdr said:


> DON'T LET YOURSELF PUMP HIM! I know exactly what you mean, our Mustang used to make me do that every time I cantered him. But it gets you into a bad habit, makes you busy all the time, and if you let yourself do it, you will just start doing it automatically every time you feel your horse canter. If you want to train him out of it, just squeeze with your outside leg ever time he starts to slow, and then a kick if he doesn't listen, and then immediately the dressage whip if he is STILL trying to stop. Don't let yourself drive him with your seat and legs. It is odd that he is doing that though...maybe it was just the heat. Congrats on your progress though! Just do not let yourself drive him every canter step...after all HE is the one cantering, not you!


Good pick up on the pumping. As much as you want to do it, pumping the body actually indicates for the horse to slow down. You want to keep your upper body as still as possible so as not to disrupt his balance, and just think of riding your crutch to your hands, without allowing your backside to slide across the saddle. Your saddle should be clean enough, you don't need to shine it with your bottom :lol:
Many beginner riders seem to pump to get the horse to walk as well, but as with canter, it merely disrupts the horse's balance and back, indicating that it should in fact stop or slow down.


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## Valentina (Jul 27, 2009)

SaratogaTB said:


> Another question I have is about shoes. He only has front shoes. When he came off the track, we decided to leave him barefoot in the back. Our schooling ring is very soft sand and if we dont ride there, we ride in a graassy field or on a dirt trail. He doesnt encounter any pavement really. His paddock is dirt/grass. I HATE how his back feet chip, but they are getting stronger and stronger between trims. Is it possible that not having back shoes is making it harder for Sousa to "push" in the back, thus creating balance issues, and causing him to resist? Just curious.


Probably not any problems with pushing, although in dressage you want the horse to step underneath itself and carry. My mare shows 3rd level dressage (meaning she sits on her hind end and carrys her weight there, elevating her shoulders off the ground) and does not have hind shoes - never has. 

There is a solution called Keratex to help strengthen the hooves (will prevent chipping) but sounds like the good diet you have him on is already fixing that issue.


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## macktheknife (Jul 11, 2010)

for more canter: larger space. Although he doesn't seem to have a timid personality, I've found that a lot of OTTBs are confused by the rail suddenly being on their outside (confining) as opposed to the inside (supporting). It's very possible he's just intimidated by it, particularly if he is unbalanced- Sort of like how people that drive SUV's shy away from sharp turns at higher speeds. With all three of my OTTBs I spent the first year riding outside of the ring 80% of the time, going up and down hills, learning about the world, etc. Horses have a natural ability to balance themselves on uneven terrain, so its a great tool for those that need to learn balance/gain strength. Also, it's fun for them.


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## SaratogaTB (Jun 14, 2010)

Mack the Knife is so handsome! I noticed you live in Rochester, by chance did he race in the Finger Lakes? I am from Saratoga Springs...the meet is going on right now!

Thanks for the advice, I tried changing up the terrain this week, we walked up and down hills, over logs, on gravel. Kept him alert and busy. I could hear him "huffing and puffing" up some of the inclines. I am sure he isnt used to engaging his hindquarters that way!

Thanks!


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## macktheknife (Jul 11, 2010)

Thank you!! He is a good looking man. He's actually Florida bred; he raced all over the east coast. 

Good luck with your boy! Enjoy the lazy while it lasts! )


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## SaratogaTB (Jun 14, 2010)

We had an AMAZING lesson today! First of all, I have cracked the code on cantering my OTTB. I have been practicing standing up in two point/jump position quite a bit lately as we are starting cross rails. So, I have taken to doing some trot work with me standing up a bit, also as an exercise for me to get stronger too. Well, I was up off him and clucked at him to canter and he went right into a gorgeous canter as long as I wanted. NO BUCKING, Cow Kicking, ears back, NOTHING but a wonderful, easy, collected, slow canter. It was amazing! Then I tried it in the other direction and he did the same exact thing. As long as I am basically not in the saddle, this horse canters wonderfully. Now I am convinced that the cross firing and cow kicking EVERY time I asked him to canter is because he just dont have the muscles in the back when there is weight on him.

So today we had a lesson and again, he cantered along nicely (with me completely up off the saddle). The transition back to trot was well done and he never rushed. Oh, and picked up the right lead EVERY time. When I ask him to canter sitting down, he rarely gets it right, or cross fires. 

So, I trotted over poles, then we asked him to jump a cross rail, and HE DID IT! I could feel my OTTB jump for the first time, and then he cantered along after jumping. It was just spectacular, and easy canter until we trotted, collected, jumped the cross rail and cantered away again.

Sorry for my over-enthusiasm here, but I am just so proud of my boy today. I guess my next question is this: when AM I going to be able to acually sit in the saddle at a canter? :wink: I am thinking that I do this a while as he gets stronger, then slowly start to sit back a bit little by little. Does this make sense?

Also, we are walking and trotting up slopes and on different terrain to get his back end muscles stronger. Other ideas?


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## hrsrdr (Jul 12, 2008)

Good for you Saratoga! That sounds great. The only thing that concerns me is that I don't think he should have a problem carrying you on his back any more than over his shoulders...he might be more comfortable that way, because that is how he has always been ridden by jockeys, but you need to get him used to you being in the saddle as well as out. I don't think it is a strength issue, but a habit, and I'm going to sound mean for saying this but it might be that you are sitting on him in a way that he is uncomfortable with. It sounds like his back is sore for some reason...it could be tack, something about your position or even just that he is sore from exercising. I tend to think that it is one of the former two...are you sure that his saddle fits? Does it press into his withers, dig into his shoulders, or sit too far forward or back? It should sit right behind the back of his shoulder blades, but no further forward or back. You should be able to fit two fingers between his withers and the pommel WHEN YOU ARE MOUNTED and girthed up. Also, if you put it on his back and slide your hand down behind his shoulder, it shouldn't feel like it is pinching or rubbing, but it should still feel snug. Make sure you have it correctly on his back...I test-rode a horse one time (an OTTB, actually) that went into bucking fits at the beginning of the ride, and I'm almost positive it was because the saddle had been placed too far back on him and he was trying to "buck it up into place", if that makes any sense.

Also make sure that YOU aren't hindering him at all...when you sit the canter, don't get tense in your seat and back. Let your hips slide up in an almost cicular motion every canter stride, and really feel your seat bones following his movement at the walk, sitting trot and canter. Make sure that when you mount, you are using his mane to pull you up, not the front of the saddle, and that you spring up lightly and settle gently on his back. Always use a mounting block if available. Same with putting on the saddle...don't fling it up on his back so it flops onto him. That could definetly make a sensitive TB sore. 

Also be aware of your hands when your ride...let them follow his head with gentle contact so he can stretch his back and neck. I once heard someone say that if a rider is stiff somewhere, their horse will be too, and I think that while it is not entirely accurate, it gives you something good to think about...if you are riding with a stiff back, "perching" on the saddle, his back will be stiff too and hence the soreness from extra stress on his muscles that doesn't have to be there. So think a lot about YOUR position next time you go out...many riders, especially women, tend to think "straight back, straight back" and so we arch our spines inward, rolling onto the front of our seat bones and riding very stiffly. I know, because I tend to do it when I'm not careful. When you ride, think "relaxed back", like if you had a wall right behind you, your back would exactly touch it all the way up. Don't slouch, but relax your shoulders and sit evenly on the flat part of your seat bones. I think it's almost better to err on the slouching side than the perching side. Men are the opposite; just because of their anatomy, they usually slouch more then they should, even up to the professional level, but since they are relaxed and supple, they can often get away with it. 

But it sounds like you are doing great with his fitness work...trotting up hills is excellent for strengthening. You can also do "trot sets" with him...start by trotting for just 2 minutes one day, and do that 2 times, with a few minutes between to catch his breath. So you have 2 sets, 2 minutes each. The next day, increase the amount of minutes to 3, but still do just 2 sets (again, always with 3-5 minute breaks in between). The next day, reverse it so you are doing three sets, but go down to 2 minutes per set. Next day, 3 sets, 3 minutes each. Next day, 3 sets, 4 minutes each, and so on so you are increasing by a set OR a minute per set each day. Do that until you get up to 5 five-minute sets, and you can even go further if you want, but if you can get up to a total of 30 minutes trotting each day (eventually in just 1 to 3 sets) you should be in good shape for all-around riding and lower-level competing. This works great for TBs...they are bred to canter, and do it well, so if you make them trot it tends to build strength better.

I hope all of this makes sense...I tried to explain it as best I could but if anyone wants to elaborate on it that's fine with me; and I'm sorry it turned out to be so long. Let me know if you have any questions Saratoga...good luck again with your little guy!


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## SaratogaTB (Jun 14, 2010)

HRSRDR, wow, thanks for that very valuable feedback. It seems like a long time ago since I last wrote, so here's an update: Yes, we had a professional saddle fitter come and he now has a collegiate convertible Diploma with the "green" gullet system. The saddle had the black one, but due to his narrow neck/withers, she recommended we change it, which we did. He also had 3 chiropractic treatments. Since this time, he has NEVER cow kicked! Therefore, I do think it was the original saddle. 

We are now cantering beautifully, but I must admit, I start the canter in a two point seat each time. He starts nicely on the correct lead that way. We are even doing a figure 8 canter, with a few trot steps to change leads. I am focusing on the transitions from canter back to trot, back to walk. Its getting smoother and smoother. But I havent asked him to canter while sitting back again. 

The other issue, which is improving, is that he doesnt just "stay in the canter" naturally. I need to keep leg on him. I'm not "pumping" like before, but if he had his way, he would just stop. Do they eventually learn that they need to continue until asked to transition to trot? I'm tempted to use spurs, but havent done that yet. Now and again I flick the dressage whip to keep him going along. 

We will be in a pleasure hunter walk/trot class in late September! I think he will be ready!


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## hrsrdr (Jul 12, 2008)

Yeah it sounds like you've made a lot of improvement! I've honestly never heard of a recently-off-track TB that didn't want to canter...I wonder why he does that. When he breaks into the trot, does he do it fairly smoothly or does he fling his head up in the air and go into a really choppy, unbalanced trot? I don't think it's your saddle, since you just got one fitted...does the rest of his tack fit him? Does he flinch when you tighten the girth, or cock his head funny/throw his head up when you ask to turn? I'm talking about almost regular occurences. Make sure you're not involuntarily balancing on your reins occasionally when you canter or otherwise signalling him to slow down. Maybe it's just that you're making him actually balance in the canter for the first time in his life, instead of just running around on his forehand, and he just can't do ir for very long yet.


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## hrsrdr (Jul 12, 2008)

Oh, and Good luck in your walk/trot class! I just want to give you a word of caution about that, though, as I did a couple of W/T/C classes with my first TB (also origionally off the track). It was a small ring with about nine or ten horses showing, and Leo was the biggest of them, so it was hard to navigate to a clear spot on the rail and I kept having to change pace and squeeze in way too close to the other horses. The first class he got so excited that I could barely stop him after we started cantering, and the second time he galloped off with me, all around the ring about 5 times before I could stop him. Needless to say I was disqualified. He was 11 at the time and had been eventing for years, but the track training stays with them all their lives, so it was too much for him to be in a ring with all those horses cantering around...he thought he was in a race again. It was no fun and very scary (I was 13 at the time) so I was barely able to get back on. He settled down in the jumping warmup for hunter/equitation jumping classes, though, and we placed 2nd and 3rd on those. So it wasn't so bad after all, and I was left with no scars except a bad memory. I'm not trying to discourage you, just put in a word about that because it was a nightmare for me. But it sounds like your boy is much calmer than Leo was, and in walk/trot I probably would've been fine. Also I'm sure you're a better rider than I was at that point so you probably won't have any issues. But just thought I'd say something to let you know.


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## SaratogaTB (Jun 14, 2010)

I really think that it is about him balancing in the canter for the first time. I am very careful about not balancing on the reins, so I grab some mane just to stabilize. I let the reins go with him, have FUN with it, and let myself move naturally with him. He collects himself and canters slowly...I NEVER have to ask him to stop other than slightly leaning back and saying "trot". This OTTB chooses the "path of least resistence" on everything. He is a bit of a couch potato! :lol: He works 4 times a week right now, and is outside half of every day in a large paddock with a buddy. I wish I could work him more than 4 times, but that's all I can do with my work schedule. Even with that, we are progressing nicely. 

Sometimes when I tighten the girth he turns his head and gives me a dirty look. Why did you ask that? What could that imply?


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## hrsrdr (Jul 12, 2008)

Well, some horses are really sensitive in their girth area, and need special girths, such as those with fleece covers. I was thinking that maybe when he canters, the girth starts rubbing him uncomfortably and so he goes back to a trot. It sounds like, though, it really is just him being out of shape. Many horses object sometimes to having the girth tightened, in fact most do, so him glaring at you sometimes is just normal. It sounds like you are a careful rider and soreness related to tack is not the issue, since it is not only cantering that he is lazy about. If it doesn't go away in a few weeks when he is getting fitter, I might be more concerned and maybe have a vet come out and look at him to make sure it isn't a medical issue, but I don't think it will come to that. Did you get a pre-purchase on him?

Him being on the lazy side also probably means that you will have no trouble at your show. Good luck and keep me updated!


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