# What kind of electric fenceing do you have?



## Phly (Nov 14, 2012)

Half 4 wire and half Two wire high tinsile. Not hot currently but can be. Pics of high tinsile are pretty useless since ya can't see it lol
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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Phly said:


> Half 4 wire and half Two wire high tinsile. Not hot currently but can be. Pics of high tinsile are pretty useless since ya can't see it lol
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


ok. yeah, i currently have a two wire hi-tensile electric and it's in need of a little repair. but I am sorta worried about the safety of wire fence. how safe is it?


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Your in Canada which means you need at least two wires, a hot and a ground so work in the winter. When standing on snow just the hot wire doesn't work until the horse touches both. A single strand will be enough until it snows. I have a daytime only pasture with a single wire. Be sure your have plenty of metal in the ground for attaching your ground wire. An 8' steel rod works well or three, 3' rods all connected, an old car radiator. Whichever you chose they are buried near the charger. If the charger is to be outside be sure to enclose it to protect it from the elements. If you have a problem with neighboring dogs/ wildlife, add the third strand which will be a hot wire.


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## Phly (Nov 14, 2012)

I think it's plenty safe. Horses are like 1000 lbs two year olds though and will find a way to hurt themselves. I dislike 5 wire and even 4 wire. It's too low and they can get a hoof caught over it pretty easy. My stance on fencing is, it's just a suggestion. If they want out, they'll blow through or over just about anything.
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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Phly said:


> I think it's plenty safe. Horses are like 1000 lbs two year olds though and will find a way to hurt themselves. I dislike 5 wire and even 4 wire. It's too low and they can get a hoof caught over it pretty easy. My stance on fencing is, it's just a suggestion. If they want out, they'll blow through or over just about anything.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 Thanks. That makes sense.


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## RedHorseRidge (Nov 3, 2012)

High tensile can be dangerous to horses; I had one kick through it and got it twisted around her leg, pulling all the flesh off.

You might want to look into flexrail; many brands can be electrified and it's safer than simple high tensile. It's pricier though.


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## hemms (Apr 18, 2012)

I have electric rope, an affordable brand. I like the visibility, the flexibility and the aesthetic. Have had horses blow through my cross fence without harm to themselves, and only toasting a few insulators each time. Easy to repair by hand, too, as it's only hand-tensioned. 

I live in Cananda, have snow knee-high right now, and successfully run one stand, though it's simply there to keep them off the neighbour's fences. I really find that with enough room (not over-horsing my acreage) and enough food, they don't want to wander in winter, anyhow. Of course, our cleared pasture is also surrounded by bush... Not mich visual stimulation on the other side of the fence. All our high-traffic zones like the gate are also post & rail with the electric to keep them from pushing on it.
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## hemms (Apr 18, 2012)

Any of the plastic type fencing cannot survive our cold temps (~ -40, during cold snaps).
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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

I have tape - mainly because they can see it better. We use it to divide paddocks but are replacing all the metal and plastic stakes with wooden posts and plastic clips fastened on to them that the tape runs through. My husband uses taller wooden posts at intervals all round the field area with electrified wire rope running throught it as it seems to keep the deer from jumping in.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

RedHorseRidge said:


> High tensile can be dangerous to horses; I had one kick through it and got it twisted around her leg, pulling all the flesh off.
> 
> You might want to look into flexrail; many brands can be electrified and it's safer than simple high tensile. It's pricier though.


 can it get twisted around a leg if it is tight?


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

I was thinking about this type of fence.
Hotcote Electric Fencing | Coated Wire Fence | Horse Fence | Ramm
We have 3" wooden posts though. Is that thick enough?


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## deserthorsewoman (Sep 13, 2011)

Perimeter I have mesh, one strand of electric tape on top to prevent/avoid leaning over. Divider was 3 strand, now one more on top, of electric tape. The high one needed because the two geldings fight about the mare in heat over the fence. Once the bottom- and once the second highest were ripped(kicking/rearing), no injuries, tape reconnected, horses even more respectful of fence.
When I used it with snow I disconnected what was buried, so still had hot wire without shorting out anywhere. Important is sufficient grounding, otherwise no juice. When dry, I pour water over the groundrods to keep the ground moist.
After using electric tape for over 20 years, I would not change. Even pretty wood or vinyl fence would have one strand hot....just to keep them OFF the fence.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

does anyone know of a good brand of electric rope thats not too expensive?


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## backyardhorse (Feb 22, 2013)

Although we use the tape (Horseguard, I think), I'm not a fan of it. 
1) Yes, it is highly visible, but the "keys" that actually hold the 2 parts of the insulator together are forever breaking
2) The winds tend to blow the tape out of the insulators.
3) Because the conductive wires in the tape itself can break without the plastic web breaking. I've had this happen more than once, hard to find the short!

It would be my guess that the rope types would hold up better, less resistance to the wind. Horses learn very quickly where their boundaries are, so the visibility is more of an issue to us than it is to them.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

has anyone had any experience with this?
TURBO EQUI BRAID


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## deserthorsewoman (Sep 13, 2011)

Agree with the flaws if the tape, especially the wide one. I use 1/2";-).
Rope, or braid, is better in windy conditions, that's for sure. But wire strands break in these also. 
I've seen some nasty nasty injuries with rope that didn't break on impact. Or wrapped around the horse's neck. I would use it, if it had lesser breaking strength...to avoid nasty cuts and ropeburns.


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## JoesMom (Jun 19, 2012)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> has anyone had any experience with this?
> TURBO EQUI BRAID


Yes, that is the fencing that I have been using for the last 12 years. It works very well and holds up nicely. I have not had to replace any of it so far. I had one horse that ran through it and all it did was tear up the insulators. The rest of my horses respect it very well. It is a good brand of fence that will serve you for years to come. I run mine in Three strand fences, two hot and one ground in the middle. I also have a fifteen mile charger for my two miles of fence.


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## toto (Mar 3, 2013)

We have high tensile (non electric) for our horse fencing-- its not flimsy stays tight for years when done right and the horses can see it good.

Cant remember the gauge off the top but ill look it up later-- either way.. this stuff can hold back a tractor if the posts were strong enough-- and we use trees.


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## RedHorseRidge (Nov 3, 2012)

hemms said:


> Any of the plastic type fencing cannot survive our cold temps (~ -40, during cold snaps).
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Many flex rail fence brands I've seen advertise from -65 to -40 and up...


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Horsecrazy, horses sense when the charger is operating. They don't need to be almost on top of it to sense the current but can be as far as 20' away. Once a horse has been zapped it will be very respectful. There is no fear of a horse getting caught in it. Use the heavier weight of wire that is recommended for electric fencing as it carries a better charge. If you are concerned about visibility when first put up, just tie cheap bright survey ribbon to the wire between each post and hand walk the horse around while the charger is on. A horse has photographic memory for wherever it goes so the streamers can be removed if you wish after a few days. Horses run into trouble with non electric fencing as they don't respect it and paw at it or try to push thro.


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## RedHorseRidge (Nov 3, 2012)

Saddlebag said:


> Once a horse has been zapped it will be very respectful. There is no fear of a horse getting caught in it.


Unless they are are run through it, slid through it, or kick through it....


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

JoesMom said:


> Yes, that is the fencing that I have been using for the last 12 years. It works very well and holds up nicely. I have not had to replace any of it so far. I had one horse that ran through it and all it did was tear up the insulators. The rest of my horses respect it very well. It is a good brand of fence that will serve you for years to come. I run mine in Three strand fences, two hot and one ground in the middle. I also have a fifteen mile charger for my two miles of fence.


 How thick should the posts be for this kind of electrc rope? We have 3" is that thick enough?


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## backyardhorse (Feb 22, 2013)

Although 3" is a bit small for a wood post (5" or even 6" would be better), it should be adequate for the rope. Wouldn't pull the posts to put in bigger, but as they rot out, replace with the bigger ones.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

If your fencing a straight run, your line posts at 3" are fine but you have to build good solid corners and don't skimp on the bracing. The reason I use wire is because the wind has little influence on it, which means the insulators stay put. Anything thicker moves in the wind which creates friction at the insulator and may eventually break or pop the insulator off the post. Buy good quality insulators, not the little cheap ones as they better ones are uv treated and are a better quality plastic. If you nail them on, don't drive the nails real tight to allow for expansion and contraction of the insulator. I've made all the mistakes and finally have it down pat.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Ok I was thinking of replacing the corner and end posts with 4"-5" wooden posts and putting a 4-5" post every 40 ft with the small ones in between.
How does that sound? Do you think that fence would hold up well then? and yes the fence is in a straight line-except for the corners. The posts we have are pretty sturdy and they've been up for about 4 years and none have yet broken.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Electric wire doesn't have to be strung tight like barbed wire is. Since the posts are in a straight line there are no forces of wire pulling on them so the posts are just holding the wire up off the ground. A few stout posts certainly wouldn't hurt. I hope you are using pressure treated or cedar as spruce and pine rot at the ground in about 5 years.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Saddlebag said:


> Electric wire doesn't have to be strung tight like barbed wire is. Since the posts are in a straight line there are no forces of wire pulling on them so the posts are just holding the wire up off the ground. A few stout posts certainly wouldn't hurt. I hope you are using pressure treated or cedar as spruce and pine rot at the ground in about 5 years.


Yes we are using PT wood posts. i refuse to use anything else. I have to admit, we never braced the corners and the corner posts are still straight and stout. But we're going to brace them anyway.:-D and i still want to add those thicker posts-just in case.


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## Bandit (Mar 1, 2009)

We have high tensile wire. Two are hot and two are coated wire for a sight line. Pretty low maintenance.


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## Natfoth (Feb 2, 2013)

I have an electric fence already set up when I bought the house but its mostly destroyed now, so going to redo it all. Luckly it was made for one already so just have to restring it up and maybe get another capacitor since im redoing it anyways.


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## hemms (Apr 18, 2012)

The Advertising doesn't hold up... Ime.
_Posted via Mobile Device_

High winds in nasty cold snaps and cracks anything wider than rope, here.


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## hemms (Apr 18, 2012)

Electric rope is tightened less than high tensile. I would def brace the corners, especially if you're dealing with long runs, but save yourself some work and don't bother with the periodical run replacement. Useless work. 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

hemms said:


> Electric rope is tightened less than high tensile. I would def brace the corners, especially if you're dealing with long runs, but save yourself some work and don't bother with the periodical run replacement. Useless work.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 So I should just brace the corners and leave the line posts as they are?
Does it matter how I brace the corners? I wanted to do it something like this(without the concrete, though):


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## hemms (Apr 18, 2012)

They look like good, solid braces. I've seen that around here. The best solution is relative to your type of ground. 

I now live in a very rocky area, with HARD ground. Combined with the lesser pressure from the rope vs tensile, I can get away with a lot less than my neighbours an hour South of me. 

I grew up sloughing in barns drowning in the Southern "gumbo", on the other side of our city. It was a constant fight to tighten fences and firm up high traffic zones. The mud flowed over the top of your rubber boots for two months, every time you brought your horse through the gate. PT posts rotted out in 7-10 years, still green above ground, if you were lucky. These posts needed to sit deeper than my current ones, obviously.

The posts I cleared off my property when I moved in disintegrated as we tried to pull them out, they were so old. Original homestead was 100+ years old...!? It sure was some old fencing, anyway.
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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

we live in southern manitoba so the ground is pretty firm. We have dark soil on the top for a foot or two and then a little clay mixed with soil a little farther down. I was wondering if the other type of braces- the ones with 5 posts - are stronger?


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

We use electric rope and don't even brace the corners. You really don't need to tighten more than just getting the major droop out of the rope.
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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

PaintHorseMares said:


> We use electric rope and don't even brace the corners. You really don't need to tighten more than just getting the major droop out of the rope.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


what kind of posts do you use? thanks.


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> what kind of posts do you use? thanks.


At the corners, 3"x3" posts (commonly called landscape timbers).
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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

PaintHorseMares said:


> At the corners, 3"x3" posts (commonly called landscape timbers).
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


If you dont mind, how deep do you sink the corner posts?


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

Just 2 feet. It's pretty much all clay here after the first few inches.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

But what about the frost heave? Is two feet deep enough for canada's cold?


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> But what about the frost heave? Is two feet deep enough for canada's cold?


You can certainly go deeper if you want. The frost line here is no more than 12".


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

PaintHorseMares said:


> You can certainly go deeper if you want. The frost line here is no more than 12".


I'll have to ask my dad about our frost line. The fence posts we have right now are sunk about two ft and have been like that for 4 years without any problems so I guess it wouldnt be too bad. How cold does it get where you live?


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

I'd also be interested in how deep other manitobans set their fence posts.:wink:


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

hemms said:


> I have electric rope, an affordable brand. I like the visibility, the flexibility and the aesthetic. Have had horses blow through my cross fence without harm to themselves, and only toasting a few insulators each time. Easy to repair by hand, too, as it's only hand-tensioned.
> 
> I live in Cananda, have snow knee-high right now, and successfully run one stand, though it's simply there to keep them off the neighbour's fences. I really find that with enough room (not over-horsing my acreage) and enough food, they don't want to wander in winter, anyhow. Of course, our cleared pasture is also surrounded by bush... Not mich visual stimulation on the other side of the fence. All our high-traffic zones like the gate are also post & rail with the electric to keep them from pushing on it.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 How deep do you sink your posts? I was wondering because I live in Manitoba too. thanx


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

I'm in N Alberta and our posts are in about 2' and they are just fine. We have 4 strands of 3/8" electric rope and electrify the top and third strand down. It works very well, looks good and requires minimal maintenance. I used 4-5" posts in the main fence line spaced 16' apart and 6-8" posts on the corners with no bracing. We also used screw in insulators which have been great as they never come out.

Here's a picture to give you an idea.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Koolio said:


> I'm in N Alberta and our posts are in about 2' and they are just fine. We have 4 strands of 3/8" electric rope and electrify the top and third strand down. It works very well, looks good and requires minimal maintenance. I used 4-5" posts in the main fence line spaced 16' apart and 6-8" posts on the corners with no bracing. We also used screw in insulators which have been great as they never come out.
> 
> Here's a picture to give you an idea.


 Thanks so much! That is a very beautiful horse by the way!


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> I'll have to ask my dad about our frost line. The fence posts we have right now are sunk about two ft and have been like that for 4 years without any problems so I guess it wouldnt be too bad. How cold does it get where you live?


Rarely below 20F.


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## RedHorseRidge (Nov 3, 2012)

If you're going to use electric rope fence, I encourage you to check it regularly and keep it taut. If the rope is kept tight, it works well. But if a horse gets a foot wrapped in it (such as kicking through it or rolling into it) it won't break easily and can really injure a horse. So keeping it tight is really important. Even Electrobraid cautions horse owners that for a safe fence, 3 or more strands must be used on well braced end and corner posts... and it must be kept tight and charged.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

My corner posts aren't real heavy but 5 posts were used to make the L. The uprights were notched then two posts trimmed to fit parallel to the ground. Fence wire was then run from the top of the post to the bottom of the other, going each way. The wire forms an X. Each strand of the X can be tightened. When both sides of the L are done this way the corner is rock solid. Koolio's posts aren't braced and after a few years the corners will start moving in. Because my soil is clay, we put long points on the posts and they were pounded in. Never put flat bottomed or barely pointed posts in as the front will start shoving them out. Long ponts even if augered in then pack wet sand and clay around them and tamp it hard. What you will find if you try to go much lower than 18" is that you hit hard pan which is like cement.


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## hemms (Apr 18, 2012)

Manitoba, here. My posts are only 1.5 - 2 feet. Our frostline starts at 4-5 feet, lol. Deeper, in high traffic zones. Try finding posts long enough. During thaws you might be able to wiggle the odd post, but it firms up as soon as the season settles. We haven't had any issues for 6+ years.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

backyardhorse said:


> Although we use the tape (Horseguard, I think), I'm not a fan of it.
> 1) Yes, it is highly visible, but the "keys" that actually hold the 2 parts of the insulator together are forever breaking
> 2) The winds tend to blow the tape out of the insulators.
> 3) Because the conductive wires in the tape itself can break without the plastic web breaking. I've had this happen more than once, hard to find the short!
> ...


I use the tape like Deserthorsewoman, on top of no climb horse fence & over gates.
I also wish I had used a hot rope instead as the tape does wear out & has to be replaced at times. I would switch except I have so much invested in the insulators already that it is cheaper to buy the tape when needed.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Thanks everyone


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Saddlebag said:


> My corner posts aren't real heavy but 5 posts were used to make the L. The uprights were notched then two posts trimmed to fit parallel to the ground. Fence wire was then run from the top of the post to the bottom of the other, going each way. The wire forms an X. Each strand of the X can be tightened. When both sides of the L are done this way the corner is rock solid. Koolio's posts aren't braced and after a few years the corners will start moving in. Because my soil is clay, we put long points on the posts and they were pounded in. Never put flat bottomed or barely pointed posts in as the front will start shoving them out. Long ponts even if augered in then pack wet sand and clay around them and tamp it hard. What you will find if you try to go much lower than 18" is that you hit hard pan which is like cement.


 How long should the points be?


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Ok if I go with the plain wire, I wanted to leave the 3" posts as line posts and put 4-5" posts (braced) in the corners. would that set up work for wire? thanks!


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> Ok if I go with the plain wire, I wanted to leave the 3" posts as line posts and put 4-5" posts (braced) in the corners. would that set up work for wire? thanks!


I assume you are talking about high tensile wire? If so, this wire needs to be kept tight, so your corners will need to be very strong, so I'd go with heavier 6-8" posts and braces there. I don't have mine braced, but my corner posts are 7-8" and over 3' in the ground on my electric rope fence (which doesn't have to be nearly as tight). The 3" line posts are iffy at best, depending upon how far apart they are. It doesn't take much at all for a horse to back into a 3" post and break it or push it out. The smaller posts will hold your wire in place as long as there is no horizontal tension vetween the wire and the posts. If the posts are out of line even a bit, this could be a problem. At the very minimum, I'd put a heavier 4-5" post every 20-30 feet in addition to the 3" posts, no matter what kind of wire, tape or rope fencing you choose. 

High tensile wire is cheap, but it is a huge pain to work with. If it breaks, it coils like mad (and dangerously) and it is difficult to splice together. You will also need the proper parts to tighten it correctly and need to be sure not to nail it tight to your posts. The wire should be able to slip through the fencing nails, so your line posts must be very straight.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Koolio said:


> I assume you are talking about high tensile wire? If so, this wire needs to be kept tight, so your corners will need to be very strong, so I'd go with heavier 6-8" posts and braces there. I don't have mine braced, but my corner posts are 7-8" and over 3' in the ground on my electric rope fence (which doesn't have to be nearly as tight). The 3" line posts are iffy at best, depending upon how far apart they are. It doesn't take much at all for a horse to back into a 3" post and break it or push it out. The smaller posts will hold your wire in place as long as there is no horizontal tension vetween the wire and the posts. If the posts are out of line even a bit, this could be a problem. At the very minimum, I'd put a heavier 4-5" post every 20-30 feet in addition to the 3" posts, no matter what kind of wire, tape or rope fencing you choose.
> 
> High tensile wire is cheap, but it is a huge pain to work with. If it breaks, it coils like mad (and dangerously) and it is difficult to splice together. You will also need the proper parts to tighten it correctly and need to be sure not to nail it tight to your posts. The wire should be able to slip through the fencing nails, so your line posts must be very straight.


 Well then, would that set up work for rope?


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Electric Line Horse Fence - Maxi Braid Electric Line Fencing
Has anyone tried this kind of rope? how long does it last?


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

This is what our fence looks like now. the 3" posts look pretty sturdy to me. What do you think?


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

I cannot tell how sturdy your posts are from the picture. I can tell how thin they are by the relative size of the insulators. The posts will hold up your fence wires but they won't tolerate much lateral tension without shiftingand loosening. They won't be as sturdy in the ground as thicker posts. You will also find it difficult to hammer in insulators in a thin post as the post will flex quite a lot. I would also be worried about the thinner posts splitting when you nail or screw in your insulators and then not having enough lateral surface area to place the new nails while still keeping your fencing wire fairly level. 

That said, you could still use them if you put in a few extra thicker posts every 20-30 feet or so. With some brands of electric rope or tape, posts can be up to 60 feet apart. This is OK as long as the area is perfectly flat, it if you have any rise or fall of the land, you will need posts in between. This is where your 3" posts could be used.

As far as the fencing strands themselves, there will be pros and cons to each. The high tensile is terrible to work with and it will cut a horse badly if they get tangled in it. The electric rope will injure a horse as well, but it is much easier to put up properly. Electric tape looks nice when taught, but takes a beating in the wind and requires regular tensioning. You can also get a polymer covered electric wire that looks nice, but it stretches out of shape if a horse leans on it, and like the others will cause injury of the horse gets tangled. Never, ever tie a horse to a thinner post (less than 6") as they can pull a 6" post out of the ground quite easily.

So the key is this: Use good posts to support your fence, especially in the corners, no matter what you choose. More strands is better, especially at the bottom as this is where horses are more likely to out a foot through. Electrifying a lower strand will discourage this. Use the best insulators you can get. I prefer the screw in type as nails work themselves out. Keep your fence properly tensioned with the proper parts and check it regularly. Rope doesn't need to be as tight and it will stretch in the cold. Wire and coated wire must be very tight. Buy an adequate electric discharge unit for the distance you a fencing. Buy a tester and test the fence regularly. Ground your fence properly using the proper materials. Don't make substitutions here that won't work as well. 

Brand of fencing isn't as important as proper installation. Check the cost, warranties, visibility, tensile strength and conductivity if you want to compare vrands, but no matter what, use the appropriate parts and purchase something you can easily maintain yourself and buy a little extra for repairs, etc.

Not sure what other advice I can give you, other than "happy building"!


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Koolio said:


> I cannot tell how sturdy your posts are from the picture. I can tell how thin they are by the relative size of the insulators. The posts will hold up your fence wires but they won't tolerate much lateral tension without shiftingand loosening. They won't be as sturdy in the ground as thicker posts. You will also find it difficult to hammer in insulators in a thin post as the post will flex quite a lot. I would also be worried about the thinner posts splitting when you nail or screw in your insulators and then not having enough lateral surface area to place the new nails while still keeping your fencing wire fairly level.
> 
> That said, you could still use them if you put in a few extra thicker posts every 20-30 feet or so. With some brands of electric rope or tape, posts can be up to 60 feet apart. This is OK as long as the area is perfectly flat, it if you have any rise or fall of the land, you will need posts in between. This is where your 3" posts could be used.
> 
> ...


 Thanks Koolio! I think I'll get rope then. If I brace the corners like I posted earlier(without the concrete though), would 5" posts be good enough for the corners? I was thinking of putting 4-5" posts in between the thin posts(the thin posts are 20 feet apart) so would that be ok? I was also thinking of getting some electric rope from cameo fencing(I posted a link) has anyone had any experience with that brand? thanx


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## Rawhide (Nov 11, 2011)

Hard to tell from pic. They do look somewhat level. BTW : A good poor boys fence level is a good rifle scope. Preferatly mounted on a 2 x4. :lol:

Boone


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Rawhide said:


> Hard to tell from pic. They do look somewhat level. BTW : A good poor boys fence level is a good rifle scope. Preferatly mounted on a 2 x4. :lol:
> 
> Boone


 :lol:What exactly do you mean by level posts? Would the set up I described (below) work for rope? Thanks again.

*I think I'll get rope then. If I brace the corners like I posted earlier(without the concrete though), would 5" posts be good enough for the corners? I was thinking of putting 4-5" posts in between the thin posts(the thin posts are 20 feet apart) so would that be ok? I was also thinking of getting some electric rope from cameo fencing(I posted a link) has anyone had any experience with that brand? *


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> :lol:What exactly do you mean by level posts? Would the set up I described (below) work for rope? Thanks again.
> 
> *I think I'll get rope then. If I brace the corners like I posted earlier(without the concrete though), would 5" posts be good enough for the corners? I was thinking of putting 4-5" posts in between the thin posts(the thin posts are 20 feet apart) so would that be ok? I was also thinking of getting some electric rope from cameo fencing(I posted a link) has anyone had any experience with that brand? *


As long as you brace the corners well, in both directions, you should be able to get away with 5" posts. For bracing, put a second post about 4' from your corner post and run a 2x4 or section of round fence rail in the inside between the corner post and this second post. Then use a longer 2x4 or round rail to go from the upper part of the corner post to the bottom of the second post. Basically you will have a giant number 7 between the corner and the second post. You will need to do the same on the other side.

Adding 4-5" posts between your 3" posts will be fine. You may even get away with spacing them between every other 3" post, depending on the distance. Do make sure they make a straight line by setting a string down the inside of your fence line, touching the 3" posts. Be sure to put your larger posts just on the outside of that string, so your line stays straight.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Koolio said:


> As long as you brace the corners well, in both directions, you should be able to get away with 5" posts. For bracing, put a second post about 4' from your corner post and run a 2x4 or section of round fence rail in the inside between the corner post and this second post. Then use a longer 2x4 or round rail to go from the upper part of the corner post to the bottom of the second post. Basically you will have a giant number 7 between the corner and the second post. You will need to do the same on the other side.
> 
> Adding 4-5" posts between your 3" posts will be fine. *You may even get away with spacing them between every other 3" post, depending on the distance.* Do make sure they make a straight line by setting a string down the inside of your fence line, touching the 3" posts. Be sure to put your larger posts just on the outside of that string, so your line stays straight.


 Would this kind of bracing work for 5" posts too?


You mean put a thicker post every 40'? our small posts are 20' apart.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

bump


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## Rawhide (Nov 11, 2011)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> :lol:What exactly do you mean by level posts? Would the set up I described (below) work for rope? Thanks again.
> 
> 
> *Sorry just saw this : Meant it in good way post looked lined up* (level) at least from pic. As far as bottoms like someone else said hard to tell from pic (snow).
> ...


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Horsecrazy, go to youtube and see how fencing is done there. My corners use 5 posts, 3 form an L, the other two run parallel to the ground, with notches cut in the uprights, then wire forms an X and are twisted as tight as possible and then some. Those line posts you have are fine. To prevent the wire going down, every three or four posts tie the wire at the insulator with plastic bale twine. Put a fence staple on the back of the post. Should the insulator break the twine will hold the wire up. Wire is the best to stay with, any fencing pro will tell you that. The others are for fencing inside the perimeter fencing.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Saddlebag said:


> Horsecrazy, go to youtube and see how fencing is done there. My corners use 5 posts, 3 form an L, the other two run parallel to the ground, with notches cut in the uprights, then wire forms an X and are twisted as tight as possible and then some. Those line posts you have are fine. To prevent the wire going down, every three or four posts tie the wire at the insulator with plastic bale twine. Put a fence staple on the back of the post. Should the insulator break the twine will hold the wire up. Wire is the best to stay with, any fencing pro will tell you that. The others are for fencing inside the perimeter fencing.


 How many wires are needed? This is for a paddock.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

A single wire will do for a turnout when there's no snow. The horses need to touch the dirt. My single wire is used only during the day, after the snow has gone. About suppertime I put them in behind more secure fencing.


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## Rawhide (Nov 11, 2011)

Good info from this outfit IMO : Electric Fence Supplies for Fine Electric Fencing

:thumbsup:

Boone


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Would a two wire electric fence work for an 24/7 turnout?


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Yes, two wires, a live and a ground wire would be better. If the horse takes a chance and pushes the upper wire he'll get a good snap, touch the lower one to boot and I promise you he'll do a turn on his haunches you could never teach. Horses can sense when the charger is on and you need at least 2000 volts preferably 3000 or more. If a dumb one tests it the idiot will put his nose on it, and after that you could probably keep him behind string. If you don't have a tester, get one, the cheapest model works altho the dinky little light can be hard to see during the day. The digitals are considerably more expensive but easy to read.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Saddlebag said:


> Yes, two wires, a live and a ground wire would be better. If the horse takes a chance and pushes the upper wire he'll get a good snap, touch the lower one to boot and I promise you he'll do a turn on his haunches you could never teach. Horses can sense when the charger is on and you need at least 2000 volts preferably 3000 or more. If a dumb one tests it the idiot will put his nose on it, and after that you could probably keep him behind string. If you don't have a tester, get one, the cheapest model works altho the dinky little light can be hard to see during the day. The digitals are considerably more expensive but easy to read.


Thanks. Maybe I should stay with wire because my horse grew up with it and respects it(the people I got him from have all their paddocks and pastures fenced in with two to three strands of hi tensile wire). Even when The power is off, he wont push the wire over. How thick should the brace posts be set? How deep should they be? could you post a pic or something to give me an idea of how the bracing is done? Thanks.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Saddlebag said:


> My corner posts aren't real heavy but 5 posts were used to make the L. The uprights were notched then two posts trimmed to fit parallel to the ground. Fence wire was then run from the top of the post to the bottom of the other, going each way. The wire forms an X. Each strand of the X can be tightened. When both sides of the L are done this way the corner is rock solid. Koolio's posts aren't braced and after a few years the corners will start moving in. Because my soil is clay, we put long points on the posts and they were pounded in. Never put flat bottomed or barely pointed posts in as the front will start shoving them out. Long ponts even if augered in then pack wet sand and clay around them and tamp it hard. What you will find if you try to go much lower than 18" is that you hit hard pan which is like cement.


 How long should the points be? The posts I wanted to buy have points already.


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## Bellasmom (Jun 22, 2011)

We use hi tensile to fence both cattle (2 strands) and horses (4 strands), total of 125 acres on three separate properties. We use solar fence chargers. Cross fence is poly rope & fiberglass posts (we move cross fence alot). If you are going to use hi tensile, do some research....do NOT put your posts too close together. Our line posts are 50-75 ft apart with fiberglass posts in between. Injuries are more likely when posts are set too close as the wire doesn't have room to "give" when something hits it. We've used ours for years and been very happy with it.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Bellasmom said:


> We use hi tensile to fence both cattle (2 strands) and horses (4 strands), total of 125 acres on three separate properties. We use solar fence chargers. Cross fence is poly rope & fiberglass posts (we move cross fence alot). If you are going to use hi tensile, do some research....do NOT put your posts too close together. Our line posts are 50-75 ft apart with fiberglass posts in between. Injuries are more likely when posts are set too close as the wire doesn't have room to "give" when something hits it. We've used ours for years and been very happy with it.


 Well how about putting the thicker posts 40' apart? How deep should the corner posts be set and cant I just brace them like this?


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## Bellasmom (Jun 22, 2011)

We set our corners 3-4 ft deep & use a brace called a "dead man"...it looks like what you have pictured, except the ends of the braces don't go into the ground, they rest on heavy square pavers.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Bellasmom said:


> We set our corners 3-4 ft deep & use a brace called a "dead man"...it looks like what you have pictured, except the ends of the braces don't go into the ground, they rest on heavy square pavers.


 Thanks. I was wondering how thick the corner posts should be? Would 5" work? I was also thinking of putting a thicker post every 40' with smaller posts every 20'. would that work?


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## Bellasmom (Jun 22, 2011)

5" should be fine for corners, I would sink a heavy post every 40-50 ft and just use fiberglass or plastic posts in between (mainly just to keep the wires evenly spaced).


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Bellasmom said:


> 5" should be fine for corners, I would sink a heavy post every 40-50 ft and just use fiberglass or plastic posts in between (mainly just to keep the wires evenly spaced).


 Would the same set up work for coated electric wire? I was looking at the coated electric wire by ramm fencing.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> Would the same set up work for coated electric wire? I was looking at the coated electric wire by ramm fencing.


The coated electric wire will need to be strung tighter than rope or tape, so your corner supports must be good and secure. You would want that with any fence though. With coated wire, be sure to install it exactly as the manufacturer recommends with the appropriate fasteners and tensioners, otherwise the fence will stretch out of shape and could break.

Depth and thickness of your corner posts will depend upon how many you use and how you brace them. If you use three posts in an L shape braced, they don't need to be as thick. A single corner post with side braces like you have shown will need to be thicker and in deeper. Depth will depend on your soil. You will need to get them in deep enough to be solid. This means at least 3' in the ground. If you cement them in you won't have to go quite as deep.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Koolio said:


> The coated electric wire will need to be strung tighter than rope or tape, so your corner supports must be good and secure. You would want that with any fence though. With coated wire, be sure to install it exactly as the manufacturer recommends with the appropriate fasteners and tensioners, otherwise the fence will stretch out of shape and could break.
> 
> Depth and thickness of your corner posts will depend upon how many you use and how you brace them. If you use three posts in an L shape braced, they don't need to be as thick. A single corner post with side braces like you have shown will need to be thicker and in deeper. Depth will depend on your soil. You will need to get them in deep enough to be solid. This means at least 3' in the ground. If you cement them in you won't have to go quite as deep.


 Ok If I do the brace with 5 posts, can I use a 3" post for the horizontal brace(between the corner and brace post)?


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> Ok If I do the brace with 5 posts, can I use a 3" post for the horizontal brace(between the corner and brace post)?


Again, it depends on what kind of bracing you plan to use. You could use 2x4s and wire as well. Here is a good article illustrating a variety of bracing techniques.

http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/resmgmt/publist/300Series/307220-2.pdf

Here is another discussing some common livestock fencing mistakes. It suggests post sizes, etc for a cattle fence. Horse fencing would be similar.

7 Common Fencing Mistakes | Seven of most common errors in high-tensile fencing, and how to avoid them | Grazing Systems content from BEEF Magazine


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Koolio said:


> Again, it depends on what kind of bracing you plan to use. You could use 2x4s and wire as well. Here is a good article illustrating a variety of bracing techniques.
> 
> http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/resmgmt/publist/300Series/307220-2.pdf
> 
> ...


I meant using a 3" post as a horizontal brace like in fig. 14 from the first link. we have 2x4s but they're untreated pine and the 3" posts are pressure treated.
Thanks for the links-very informative. I didnt know that there were so many types of braces!


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

I was also wondering if I could just put the brace post 5-6' from the corner/end post instead of 8'?


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## Fort fireman (Mar 5, 2011)

I'm getting ready to build some fence on my place. I'm putting a wood post every 30 ft. I'm going to use the coated high tensil fence from ramm or gallegher( which ever I get a better deal from) . My corner posts are going to be telephone pole. I have one I'm getting ready to cut down and cut into sections. I'm going to use an H brace but I'm not even sure I have to but am going to because I don't want to have to redo it in a couple years. I'm going to use 4 strands of the wire with an inch and a half tape on top. If I have to use something between the posts it will probably be because of the tape .


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## Fort fireman (Mar 5, 2011)

Oh I forgot, my energizer is just a solar energizer. I can't remember the size but it works well for around here.


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## Fort fireman (Mar 5, 2011)

And finally, with my support wire on the H brace instead of using a twisting stick I'm just going to use an inline tensioner. Ill end up buying an extra 4 for a grand total of like 6 more bucks but the ease of using them instead of twisting a stick and trying to nail it by myself is worth it.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

I was also wondering if I could just put the brace post 5-6' from the corner/end post instead of 8'? I want to do an H brace or something just as strong. The 3" posts are 6' long. I wanted to sink the corner posts 2'-3' into the ground.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

or if I sink the posts 3' into the ground can i brace them like the pic i posted earlier?


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Koolio said:


> As long as you brace the corners well, in both directions, you should be able to get away with 5" posts. *For bracing, put a second post about 4' from your corner post and run a 2x4 or section of round fence rail in the inside between the corner post and this second post. Then use a longer 2x4 or round rail to go from the upper part of the corner post to the bottom of the second post. Basically you will have a giant number 7 between the corner and the second post. You will need to do the same on the other side.*


 would this type of bracing work for hi tensile wire?


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## Fort fireman (Mar 5, 2011)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> I was also wondering if I could just put the brace post 5-6' from the corner/end post instead of 8'? I want to do an H brace or something just as strong. The 3" posts are 6' long. I wanted to sink the corner posts 2'-3' into the ground.


I don't see why that wouldn't work. I might think about sinking the post a little deeper than just 2 ft and go at least 3.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Fort fireman said:


> I don't see why that wouldn't work. I might think about sinking the post a little deeper than just 2 ft and go at least 3.


 I looked up a High tensile fencing HOW-TO and it said 8ft. The thing is I dont have 8ft long posts/rails. the longest I have is 6ft. And for the corner and brace posts I want to use 7ft long 5in wood posts, sink them 3 ft and add a 4-5ft,3in post as a brace. for two wires it should work, right?
How do you tighten the wire? Can you tighten it by hand?


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Put as long a point as you can. Most of mine are a ft. long, done with a chain saw. We made four cuts. It does make a difference as to which end. One end it will go tho like butter and the other end it much harder. We put the thick end up. That's the way I've know for years on farms and ranches. When the butt of the post sits in the ground, it will eventually get pushed up. With a small diameter point, it will remain longer. As to how deep, some of our posts were pushed in with a loader which needed a full bucket. They were pushed and banged in. Any deeper than 2' and the post wanted to split. There is what is called hard pan, a cement like layer of clay that is difficult to penetrate. Even with a post pounder we were limited to depth. An auger will go deeper. When augered the posts have to have soil tamped around the post. With the post pounder once the post is in the ground, that's it. I hire a fellow who specializes in farm fencing. He pounds a post about every 10 min. He builds the corners. There is too much ice and snow right now or I'd send some pics of his corners. I just thought of something. Think of the letter H. That is how my corners are braced. The bar across is a post, anything over 3' is fine. Then run wire diagonally in an X and tighten. There is a gadget that's real slick. Easy to retighten when needed. Your corner will use 3 posts and two cross posts.


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

my post are 10 ' apart. I have the 2 " tape . easier for the horses to see, and the charger is a pulse charger , they know they can try to push but then again it might bite, so stay off it. if it goes out, then they dont try the fence. 
They have to get zapped a couple of times before they respect it.


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## Fort fireman (Mar 5, 2011)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> I looked up a High tensile fencing HOW-TO and it said 8ft. The thing is I dont have 8ft long posts/rails. the longest I have is 6ft. And for the corner and brace posts I want to use 7ft long 5in wood posts, sink them 3 ft and add a 4-5ft,3in post as a brace. for two wires it should work, right?
> How do you tighten the wire? Can you tighten it by hand?


I wouldn't try to tighten the wire by hand. Get some inline tensioners. You'll be able to get it tighter with them. They are like 4 bucks at tractor supply.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Saddlebag said:


> Put as long a point as you can. Most of mine are a ft. long, done with a chain saw. We made four cuts. It does make a difference as to which end. One end it will go tho like butter and the other end it much harder. We put the thick end up. That's the way I've know for years on farms and ranches. When the butt of the post sits in the ground, it will eventually get pushed up. With a small diameter point, it will remain longer. As to how deep, some of our posts were pushed in with a loader which needed a full bucket. They were pushed and banged in. Any deeper than 2' and the post wanted to split. There is what is called hard pan, a cement like layer of clay that is difficult to penetrate. Even with a post pounder we were limited to depth. An auger will go deeper. When augered the posts have to have soil tamped around the post. With the post pounder once the post is in the ground, that's it. I hire a fellow who specializes in farm fencing. He pounds a post about every 10 min. He builds the corners. There is too much ice and snow right now or I'd send some pics of his corners. I just thought of something. Think of the letter H. That is how my corners are braced. The bar across is a post, anything over 3' is fine. Then run wire diagonally in an X and tighten. There is a gadget that's real slick. Easy to retighten when needed. Your corner will use 3 posts and two cross posts.


Ok how thick should the points be? what about treating the cut part of the post? and is one end of the post really thicker? Which one? Thanks.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

BuMp


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Is it safe to use 2 strands of High tensile (bare wire) fencing in a 200x80ft paddock? Or should I use coated?


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Saddle Bag, what about treating the cut off part of the post(the points)?


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## sparks879 (Apr 14, 2013)

I have the braided poly wire, the bigger size. I love it! We get high winds during the winter, and the tape just shreds. It only lasts a couple winters before you have to replace it.


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## PaintedMare (Nov 7, 2012)

DON'T GET HIGH TENSILE. It is okay if you use it around a very very large pasture , but like someone else says if the horses kick it or run into it because they can't see it its awful. The place I boarded had it when we redid the entire farm it was fine in the summer but when it got rainy and slippery in the winter we had 4 or 5 horses within a month get their legs sliced bad enough that they are just now getting fully healed. One had to be sent off to NC State because it got down to the bone. They are all okay now but it could have been so much worse. The hoses can't see it and it tends to coil.


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