# Turning, Stopping, and Riding a stubborn barn sour horse



## horsecrazy29 (Jan 14, 2008)

I would go back to ground work, teach him the 1 rein stop to dis engage his hips. 

Will he walk away with a halter and lead line with you or does this just occur when your mounted?


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## Harlee rides horses (Jan 13, 2008)

Take the horse away from the barn (lead line) and then tie him or hold him wherever you put him that is away from the barn, and you put hay wherever your at and then eventually they might become comfortable away from the barn.


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## zapchick4 (Jan 21, 2008)

Do you think you could find and forward a link on how to one rein stop and disengage his hips. When we lead him we usually tie him up in a place with better grazing. We usually groom him then too. One time he took off and pulled the leadrope out of my hands. He stopped and I caught him eventually. But he didn't run back to the barn. He just ran in a loop around the farm.lol! He is very strong and hard to stop so I haven't tried leading him far. Thanks for the help you guys!


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## Harlee rides horses (Jan 13, 2008)

When you lead him do you use a chained lead rope? If not I would severely suggest using one on a horse in your case. Whenever your horse decides he is going to high-tail it off to the barn and take you with or with him, is when you pull on that chain and assert your authority as boss and leader, and get it across that he is leading WITH you and not against you and so you can take him anywhere.


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## zapchick4 (Jan 21, 2008)

Thanks. Are those lead ropes expensive?


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## zapchick4 (Jan 21, 2008)

*Bits*

I was also wondering if I should use a stronger bit. I am preety sure I use a D-ring snaffle bit. How strong is that? Should I use a stronger one because he refuses to listen? What is the next bit up?


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## Harlee rides horses (Jan 13, 2008)

No there not any more expensive than the regular lead ropes. I wouldn't try a stronger bit until.you try the leading if that turns out fine then stick with the bit your using, but if it doesn't work possibly try a harsher bit such as a Tom Thumb.


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## zapchick4 (Jan 21, 2008)

Ya, I tried using a chained lead rope. I didn't seem to make a difference. He just trotted away towing me. I have to give him slack then snap it really hard to stop and turn him. I tried riding him in a different bit. I think it was an eggbut snaffle. I am not sure if it made a big difference because I usually ride him in his field, and I didn't then. He was really full of himself but when my friend stood blocking the driveway he listened better. ( he likes to run down the dirt driveway) I am going to keep working with him. I think he may understand more. He is easier to ride then lead. Thanks for all the suggestions.


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## saraequestrian (Dec 4, 2007)

d-ring and eggbutt snaffles are just different styles of snaffles. they aren't any different when it comes to how severe they are. I'd using stronger than a snaffle. Talk to an employer at a local tack shop, I'm sure they'll help you out on finding a good bit.

I've seen some people wrap the chain around the halter noseband to better enforce your authority. I couldn't explain it to you as i've never done it before. What i do when my horse gets scared/excited and decides to run is jab my elbow into their shoulder and give them a firm tug of the lead line.


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## appylover31803 (Sep 18, 2007)

getting a stronger bit is not the answer. There is a reason why he is being like that. You should do a lot of ground training with him to get him to respect you. There are a lot of natural horsemanship programs out there. By getting a stronger bit, you'll only be hiding the problem. And what happens if you do go to a bit a level up from a snaffle and that doesn't work? Are you going to go harsher? And what if that doesn't work? 

I would get a vet out and check for any signs of pain. When was the last time his teeth were floated?


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## derbyhillsranch (Jan 26, 2008)

1-first off, do groundwork until your comfortable enough to lead. Then saddle him and lead him as far away from the barn as you can or until he stops paying attention to the barn. Then do some light and easy/rewarding work and take him back to the barn.
2- If your comfortable with him around the barn, try walking away from the barn or fence (if in the arena) until hes uncomfortable, when he decides to go to the barn, work him hard by the barn and take him away from it to stop and rest. I could keep goin with different ideas but try these first.


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## jazzyrider (Sep 16, 2007)

i didnt read the last few posts so i apologise if i repeat anything

1. dont get a harsher bit!!! keep the bit you have or maybe even get a training bit. if you do things the right way you shouldnt need to go putting anything harsher in his mouth. 

http://www.equisearch.com/horses_riding_training/tack_apparel/bit_gallery/frenchlink/

2. groundwork! groundwork! groundwork! it seems to me that it might be good to go right back to the beginning and start with the basics. it might also help you to look into some frank bell or clinton anderson and find some good bonding etc techniques. all these things will slowly help your horse calm down and learn to listen to you.

3. desensitisation - what was mentioned earlier in the thread about desinsitisation is also a good idea. it is one of the best way to start teaching your horse how to deal with 'scary' situations. he needs to learn to be able to relax 

3. time and patience  its amazing what can be accomplished with time & patience  

good luck with him


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## .Delete. (Jan 7, 2008)

Don't be scared of him. Pretend like nothing is happening. I find that alot of horses take advantage of people if they are scared of them. Which only makes the situation worse. Even if a horse freaks, if you freak too it makes the situation 10 times worse.


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## Feathers (Dec 22, 2007)

Hehe, this is my kind of topic!!

I have an EXTREMELY barn sour horse... and being a draft horse, she's very strong. I have not ridden her much lately and she is still very barn sour...I wouldn't even dream of riding her bareback, it would be a deathwish. 

I have researched barn sour horses and have found a few helpful links...

http://www.alphahorse.com/sour-horse2.html

(Part one is good too.)

Anyway, groundwork is very important here...as is being the horse's leader. 

Also, do you have a rope halter? I have found that they respond much better in this type.
Like Delete said, you have to be very confident and show the horse that you are his leader. My horse is opposite in the way that my horse is much easier to lead than to ride. 

Good luck!!


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## horsecrazy29 (Jan 14, 2008)

I have dealt with many barn sour horses. Mine is coming out of it actually.

anyways, the way I do it, is
1. Lounge the horse (specially if they are high energy horse, I do not do this all the time though)
2. I start with a long lead rope, no chains or anything. I start to walk away from the barn, if there is tugging, pushing any type of undesirable behavior I simply put them to work, lounging, circles, halt back side side for about 8-10 minutes, then we walk as usually and start all over if they are doing something undesirable
3. Once I got the walk better I move to saddle, the minute I get a feet plant, constant calling with like hopping, prancing I put them to work for me, circles, figure eights, tight circle trotts then we go again after awhile horses will realize its easier to do what is asked, less work in the end.
Also this has to be done EVERYDAY, consistency is the KEY! Also don't put him right away when you get back work him for a little bit then put him back. So he associates the barn with work and going away the barn as fun time.

This is all Clint Anderson and John Lyons training, that I model after.


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