# Towing with Ford truck



## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

Hi everyone. I am having a bit of a problem towing my trailer with my 2003 F150 with a 302 engine. Purchased it new and have taken it to the dealer for all servicing except sometimes brakes/tires. 

I always tell them, do everything it needs. oil change, tires rotated, spark plugs, whatever it is due so far as maintenance. 

So during some of the time, they changed service reps and this girl who was nice and seemed to know her stuff kept handling my service. The problem is, she wouldn't tell me what was needed so it think some things were missed just because she made me kind of guess what I was supposed to do. 

Like those 30/60/90 mile things or whatever? I mean, I am not a mechanic so how do I know what it needs :-?


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## Speed Racer (Oct 21, 2009)

Where's your owner's manual? Since you purchased it new, that should have information on what needs to be done in what order.


Unless you're taking it back to the dealership you bought it from for maintenance, they generally don't keep what needs done when on every vehicle they services.


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

Continued...

I also have a Brenderup trailer. It is the smallest one, the Prestige weights about 1600lbs. Bought it new in 1998 and have been towing it ever since. At that time I had a really sorry truck and my then husband would not agree to a bigger truck. 

Got separated and the sorry trucks transmission went so purchased the 2013 F150. Felt it was plenty big enough for the trailer. I could barely tell I was towing the trailer, even loaded with horses except going up large hills. 

Always towed with the overdrive off, except when empty. 

So time passes, and in 2012 drove to Kentucky over the mountains to bring home my RMHA. Horse weights maybe 900 pounds. Much lighter than my 1400lbs draft cross, so I was surprised it was struggling. 

took it to the dealer found out a spark plug was bad so had them all replaced.


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## Speed Racer (Oct 21, 2009)

So it's a 5 liter V8? Is the truck doing okay hauling now, or are you having issues? A 5L V8 shouldn't have any trouble hauling a Brenderup, unless there are engine/transmission problems.


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

Continued...

Time goes on and I am really not happy with how the truck is towing, but it doesn't really show any actual problems, just not as smooth and easy to tow as it used to be. 

Meanwhile, I had always wanted the bigger Brenderup Baron so I could have a tack area. Finally found one and brought it home Wednesday. 

That's when the real problem showed up. At fist the truck was literally jumping about on the road. It was a bumpy road, but this was excessive! The thing was jerking around and the self contained brakes on the trailer were jerking right back! Horrible jerking back and forth and up and down! 

Thought it might be the cheaper gas from a big gas chain, so filled up at a BP to get the engine cleaner for it. I usually use gas with the engine additive in it. 

The truck did run better after that, but I could still feel it back there, it wasn't easy to haul and the Brenderup's have a reputation for being extremely easy to haul!


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

Continued...

Took the truck back to the shop yesterday and they couldn't really help. Said could run a lengthy diagnostic check on it, but said it may not help, just cost a lot of $$. I should have asked how much...but was too upset. 

I suspect they are just thinking old truck with lots of mileage, nothing can be done. 

My truck is rated to pull 6050 pounds, and I have always stayed under that. My old trailer weights 1600 lbs. plus two horses and tack/hay/stuff still keeps it around 4000lbs. Should not have a problem with that

So I buy a bigger trailer (same brand - Brenderup) which weights between 2100-2500 lbs. That is only adding another 1000lbs max so shouldn't have been a problem! Plus these Brenderups are designed to be pulled by smaller vehicles and are engineered to be towed easily. Only issue come with large hills, then you can feel the load. 

Lately, I have been feeling the trailer back there. It feels heavy and it shouldn't. When the truck was new and for many years I hardly knew the trailer was behind me even with horses in it! I tended to drive like I wasn't towing anything and had to remind myself to take it easy! 

So I am stumped. The service guy said something about has the radiator ever been flushed and I said I didn't know, look it up. I've had all that work done in the dealership I bought it at. So turns out they only have records to 2011, and no radiator flush showed up. 

Then he says if the radiator has never been flushed, it would really mess it up to do it now. Shiitake. 

I'm going to post this is a new thread and try to get some input by someone with truck knowledge, but does anyone know if a radiator could cause these problems? I was thinking transmission, but just don't know. 

Bottom line, can I expect a truck to continue to pull as long as it is maintained properly? Or am I being unrealistic? I can't afford a new truck :frown_color:


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

Speed Racer said:


> So it's a 5 liter V8? Is the truck doing okay hauling now, or are you having issues? A 5L V8 shouldn't have any trouble hauling a Brenderup, unless there are engine/transmission problems.


It is a 4.6L or 4.8L V8 don't remember which, the one smaller than the 5.4L


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## carshon (Apr 7, 2015)

This is not an engine problem but more likely alignment or back end issue. I can't find the thread but a few months ago someone posted about purchasing a brand new trailer and having it "jump" all of the road. It could be a combination of needing work on the springs, struts in the rear of the truck or the new trailer needing new or different tires. 

Trailer tag along behind a vehicle and get tire wear based on how the towing vehicle tows. If the tires on the new trailer are warped in a way that you may not see - it can cause it to pull unevenly making the towing vehicle work harder to tow.

Just a side note. We have only ever towed with Ford trucks - the only real issue we have ever encountered is issues with the ground for the trailer lights


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Subbing to learn more about towing and trailers!


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

carshon said:


> This is not an engine problem but more likely alignment or back end issue. I can't find the thread but a few months ago someone posted about purchasing a brand new trailer and having it "jump" all of the road. It could be a combination of needing work on the springs, struts in the rear of the truck or the new trailer needing new or different tires.
> 
> Trailer tag along behind a vehicle and get tire wear based on how the towing vehicle tows. If the tires on the new trailer are warped in a way that you may not see - it can cause it to pull unevenly making the towing vehicle work harder to tow.
> 
> Just a side note. We have only ever towed with Ford trucks - the only real issue we have ever encountered is issues with the ground for the trailer lights


Hmm... springs or struts, did not think of that. Thank you.

Do they check those on regular maintenance visits? 

Also I realized I made an error on the truck info. It is a *2003* model, not a 2013 model. It has 167,000 or so miles on it.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Your truck is now in the "high-mileage" realm of its life...
If your dealer has been maintaining your truck correctly then transmission fluid change and filter, oil changes with filter, chassis lube, brakes and tire check, alignments, front end work should all have been checked and gone over..
However, there is just plain wear and tear on any vehicle that does take a toll on the ride quality.
Ford came out with "new and improved" engines around that time... I did not ever keep up on a 150/1500 class of truck because they just lack the towing ability that I demand and won't settle for less...dadadada. You have heard the rants from many and I won't repeat nor get into them...

Jumping up and down can mean many things...your truck is aging and at the time of life where you can and often do have issue after issue of things needing work and replacing.
If though you_ did not_ have a issue of "jumping up and down" and what you described with your old trailer and have now with the new trailer.._
I would absolutely be looking at your problem being that new trailer!_

So a newer trailer that is now causing problems of ride you never had before.
Have your truck checked over anyway to be sure all is fine but look at that trailer for bent springs , axles, hanging up braking system, twisted frame, bad tire{s}...
Don't care what brand things happen and go wrong to all brands...

As for flushing the radiator now, it is probably full of scale, needs cleaning.
If it is not running hot though....regardless....
Your radiator is NOT creating a jumping up and down issue.
Harsh chemicals are no longer used to boil out radiators like they use to and today many radiators are aluminum and replaced not "flushed" when deposits are detected.
IF, a large IF the dealership did their job of taking proper care of your vehicle for you with you following their recommended servicing, at 30, 60, 90++ should of covered all of this routine maintenance.
IF you have had hoses replaced and at that time new antifreeze and you did not ever run water you should not be looking at major scale problems.
IF your truck has been maintained as you make claims of it is a darn good truck for most people.
Demands of towing do put extra wear though to them.
That new trailer does put more weight on your truck, your truck may indeed feel that weight difference and need new shocks or helper springs just because they get tired from use...
Find a good trailer shop locally and take the truck and trailer to it.
Let them drive the rig and experience what you are feeling and now unhappy about.
It could be simple it could be major but it needs looking at and into very carefully BEFORE you tow any horse any distance in it.

Sorry for the jumbled thoughts...but the message is there to be unraveled..
Good luck finding the issue and enjoy your new trailer.
:runninghorse2:...


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

@horselovinguy thank you for the information. I didn't think of problems with the shocks or axles on the trailer. It is an older trailer too, Brenderups are not manufactured anymore. 

My truck has been maintained correctly as far as I am aware. However, just recently had to do the 120 mile service on my Subaru and part of that was changing the timing belt. 

I do not believe my timing belt has ever been changed on my truck. I think I would remember that...maybe. 

The truck has never, ever given me a bit of trouble except when I was hauling through the mountains in Kentucky and Tennessee. With only one 900lb horse in it. Then discovered it had a bad spark plug. So I thought that was the problem. 

I plan to make the dealership go thru all the old records on my truck and double check that everything was done. 

Will have to look for a trailer shop, not sure I know of one but maybe a camper place would know? This is a relatively small town. 

Thank you again for the advise. I really want this issue solved before it breaks down or something. 

I have never overloaded the capacity, have always stayed below 80% 

Do you think a older truck with 167,000 miles on it should be able to tow as much as when new? Or should I expect it to decrease?


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

AnitaAnne said:


> Do you think a older truck with 167,000 miles on it should be able to tow as much as when new? Or should I expect it to decrease?


It should, "technically" but realistically...._*No.*_
No, not as it stands.
With some help to boost some worn parts or replace some, yes..._within reason.
The truck is getting tired at this point...
_The engine has high mileage, there is no getting around that.
With high mileage and wearing engine parts you lose some "omph". 
Power and gas economy lessen and you do need to do more repairs to the entire vehicle as some parts just "age" and need replacing. You're at an age where you may see many $$ repairs {I have a 2003 myself but a Dodge 2500+}
Please remember that as you increase trailer size you now increased tongue weight and that means more on your truck too.
I wrote in another post that trucks and their load capacity for towing is never done with a "live" load but with a cargo trailer, boat, camper....things that _*not*_ move inside but secured and stationary.
So although you state under that 6000 pound mark, you in actuality are pushing your ratio I believe and have been.
A 150 truck has a ride like a car, not a truck and with that smooth ride comes more car-like parts. 
Your car you would not think to put under this stress amount but because a truck....you need to think the same way _{jmo}_
I don't care what kind of trailer you have make sure the brakes are in top-notch condition to take the added stress of stopping off your truck.
You may need to travel to find a competent horse trailer repair place, ask around at the feed store who others use... I don't know if a camping trailer place is going to want or have the knowledge about horse trailer issues although what you describe is a visual inspection needed as a starting point.
I know very little about your brand trailer except for what we have previously discussed in other post...
I do know that what is done in other areas of the world doesn't mean it is right or safe, but is what they have to do it with so "make-do"...

So, bottom line is your truck is aging.
Yes, it should be able to tow and continue towing as long as you maintain your servicing and are diligent with that care and are realistic in what you expect a small older high mileage truck to do.
As for your towing and the bad spark plug..
If your truck is serviced say in Florida and then you road-trip and go to the Rocky Mountains it might need a re-tune to air, fuel richness mixture is appropriate for that increased altitude. I don't know honestly if the truck computer system can compensate or if it needs a mechanical tweaking by human hands done...Along with the bad plug that though can give you grief towing a load up a considerable elevation difference.

Well, that is more of my thoughts...
I really hope you get this sorted quickly so the roads and "freedom" again are yours.:grin:
:runninghorse2:....


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## george the mule (Dec 7, 2014)

Hi Anita!

Well, how does the truck drive w/o the trailer? OK? How 'bout if you really push it hard; accelerating at full throttle up a hill, or on a freeway on-ramp? Still OK? How 'bout on bumps/pot-holes/washboards? OK?

If so, the problem probably isn't the truck. You mentioned some funniness with the brake system, and the trailer having a self-contained braking system? I'd have this checked out, or maybe try towing the trailer with a different truck to see how it behaves.

I'll check back to see where this leads you. Steve


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## george the mule (Dec 7, 2014)

Here's something else you can try, if you're energetic: Go to the landscaping place and have 'em dump 1000lb of topsoil or gravel (whatever might be useful around the homestead) in the back. Work the truck hard with this load in the back. How did it do? OK? Truck is probably fine.


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

george the mule said:


> Here's something else you can try, if you're energetic: Go to the landscaping place and have 'em dump 1000lb of topsoil or gravel (whatever might be useful around the homestead) in the back. Work the truck hard with this load in the back. How did it do? OK? Truck is probably fine.


This past winter brought total of 6 round bales to my horses. Two were local, not really any problem. 

The other four I had to drive 45 miles mostly on the interstate to get. They were smaller, but I picked up three of them in one day. Back-n-forth three times because truck is only 2WD and once our winter rains start I had no way of getting the hay to the horses. 

I was able to drive 65 but, hills were a bit of an issue. 

But that is payload as opposed to towing; is that a good test? 

The truck drives fine unloaded, but it does seem to struggle a bit at higher speeds. I really don't feel comfortable driving over 70 in it, unloaded. Towing I don't drive over 65 except maybe to pass. 

I have been looking at new trucks online, I just can't afford one except maybe a work truck type and just can't justify spending that kind of money on something I have to roll up windows by hand. I just would not be happy with that. 

Don't trust used trucks because by the time they are affordable, they have as much mileage as mine! 

The trailers have an unusual braking system, and I can feel them working, but will check it out at an automotive shop I have used for brakes/tires etc.


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## SwissMiss (Aug 1, 2014)

AnitaAnne said:


> Don't trust used trucks because by the time they are affordable, they have as much mileage as mine!


Ain't that the truth :-(
The ones i am looking at have even more...


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## george the mule (Dec 7, 2014)

Hi Again, Anita!

Once I started _thinking_ about this (always a dangerous pastime ;-), I recalled a somewhat similar circumstance involving a friends old Ford truck. The problem was a sort of bind/clunk that was only noticeable with her horse trailer attached, and then mostly when backing. When I inspected it for her, I found that one of the U-joints on the drive shaft was worn. When replaced, the problem was gone.

Maybe, maybe not, but worth looking at, and easy enough to repair. I don't think that this would be a regular inspection during a routine checkup. Beyond that, automatic transmissions can do funny things. Check the fluid level, if that's OK . . . Alas, this isn't a cheap/easy fix :-(

Steve


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

You should be able to haul a round bale at Interstate speeds, even going up hill. At 167,000 miles, it would not be unheard of for your transmission to need rebuilding or replacement. Figure around $3000+ for a dealer to replace it with a rebuilt one.

Your car has a rubber timing belt which requires regular replacement. Your truck has a timing chain which will probably last the life of the engine.

As others have suggested, you really need to find someone experienced with pickups and trailers to drive your rig to get another perspective on your symptoms.


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## 6gun Kid (Feb 26, 2013)

When I moved to Dallas 3 years ago I sold my v-10 f-250, due to expense of a now 40 mile commute to work. I bought a (then) low mileage 2010 f-150, with the 4.6 l V-8, and this morning on my way to work I kicked over 130k. I tow a 14 ft. steel stock trailer with 2 horses. I don't even know it is back there. 
The only reason I went half ton (besides mileage) is it has the max tow package (transmission cooler, heavy duty front sway bar, 3.55 electric locker rear end, and integrated electric brake controller). Do you have either the tow package or max tow package on your truck? If you don't, and depending on the amount of towing it has done, the tranny maybe going.


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

Joel Reiter said:


> You should be able to haul a round bale at Interstate speeds, even going up hill. At 167,000 miles, it would not be unheard of for your transmission to need rebuilding or replacement. Figure around $3000+ for a dealer to replace it with a rebuilt one.
> 
> Your car has a rubber timing belt which requires regular replacement. Your truck has a timing chain which will probably last the life of the engine.
> 
> As others have suggested, you really need to find someone experienced with pickups and trailers to drive your rig to get another perspective on your symptoms.


I did not know it was a timing chain, thank you for that info! 

I have been thinking the transmission all along too. It seems to be difficult for service people to figure out what is wrong when there are no real obvious signs. I might have to just stress the engine and see what happens. Just makes me nervous to take it up in the mountains to ride my horse when there isn't any cell service up there. Would be a really long walk out...


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

6gun Kid said:


> When I moved to Dallas 3 years ago I sold my v-10 f-250, due to expense of a now 40 mile commute to work. I bought a (then) low mileage 2010 f-150, with the 4.6 l V-8, and this morning on my way to work I kicked over 130k. I tow a 14 ft. steel stock trailer with 2 horses. I don't even know it is back there.
> The only reason I went half ton (besides mileage) is it has the max tow package (transmission cooler, heavy duty front sway bar, 3.55 electric locker rear end, and integrated electric brake controller). Do you have either the tow package or max tow package on your truck? If you don't, and depending on the amount of towing it has done, the tranny maybe going.


It was suppose to have the tow package on it, but back then, in 2003 that did not include the electric brake controller (never had one installed either) it is supposed to have a heavy-duty radiator and I think does have the 3.55 axle ratio.


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## mred (Jan 7, 2015)

I have an 1997 F-150, tow package, over 225,000 miles on it. There is no doubt that the engine has a lot of wear, shocks replace, brakes replaced, transmission serviced. But will never have the power of a new one. I also have a newer F-250. I took it to the local dealer the other day for service. it does have over 100,000 miles on it. They told me that they never serviced the transmission as it only had to be done every 30,000 miles. They need to check the book. 
Transmissions almost never get serviced and if you wait too long, most people tell you to leave them along. As some of your power issues may be the age of engine or transmission, the jumping is most likely the shocks, springs, tires on the truck or the trailer. I did upgrade the springs on the back of my F150 and I keep the heavy rated tires on it. Towing with it is slower, due to lack of power, but no jumping. Tires on the trailer can be a big problem. As stated, try using another truck to see if it is the truck or trailer.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

AnitaAnne said:


> I have been thinking the transmission all along too. It seems to be difficult for service people to figure out what is wrong when there are no real obvious signs.


On some vehicles when the transmission gets in trouble it will throw a computer code that will activate your check engine light. You also could check the transmission dipstick and see if the fluid is a nice bright red or an ugly brown accompanied by a burned smell.

That's the easy stuff. Next possibility would be to pay for a transmission service. If they pull the pan off the bottom of the transmission and it's all full of metal shavings, that answers that. You might want to make sure whoever does the service is the same place you would want to replace your transmission, because if they do the replacement they won't charge you for the tranny service.

Yeah, hook onto that trailer with another pickup and see if the problem goes with the trailer. But you still shouldn't have any problems driving 75 mph with a round bale in the bed of your pickup. If your engine is truly tired at 167,000 miles, shame on Ford. I consider any vehicle I drive a failure if it can't make it to at least 300,000, and with the quality of today's motor oil and regular maintenance, most of them get there.


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