# Did I ruin my saddle with saddle soap??



## DraftyAiresMum (Jun 1, 2011)

What kind of saddle soap did you use?

I always use HOT water (as hot as I can stand) to wipe down my tack and when I apply saddle soap. 

I've also never had saddle soap alone give the leather that "show room" gleam. I usually use a leather conditioner (my go-to is Skidmore's) after the saddle is dry.

The saddle that I posted in this thread was encrusted with dirt and cobwebs when we got it. It also smelled a little. I wiped it with a hot damp cloth, saddle soaped it twice (with Kiwi brand saddle soap), and then conditioned it with Skidmore's.
http://www.horseforum.com/horse-tack-reviews/leather-conditioner-recommendation-457650/#post5925042
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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

Agreed. You need to use saddle soap on leather just like washing your hands in Dove soap. It won't dry out the leather, but old leather can have dirt everywhere mostly bc people don't store their unused tack very well.
It will NOT hurt a saddle to be soaked.
Put your saddle on a rack OUTSIDE, in the sun, and REALLY hose it down. Then use a sponge--I prefer a round one--and really scrub it.
We used a lot of very old saddles when we did CW Reenacting and when we also filmed a few "Westerns." So, I am familiar with saddles left for decades in somebody's garage.
As long as the tree is sound any part of your saddle can be replaced. It is likely that your fenders and/or stirrups and certainly the original cinch and latigos will need replacing if you intend to use this saddle.
Something else, the leather may be pretty much shot everywhere. I use saddle soap AND Neatsfoot oil on my tack. After you wash it and the leather is dry, if it seems stiff, try putting neatsfoot oil on it, just test a small section. If it soaks in like the old leather is a sponge, than the leather is still in good shape. If it does not and the leather doesn't either soak in or soften, that leather has had it.
Love to see some pictures, when you can take them. =D


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## PaintingPintos (Jul 24, 2012)

Corporal said:


> Agreed. You need to use saddle soap on leather just like washing your hands in Dove soap. It won't dry out the leather, but old leather can have dirt everywhere mostly bc people don't store their unused tack very well.
> It will NOT hurt a saddle to be soaked.
> Put your saddle on a rack OUTSIDE, in the sun, and REALLY hose it down. Then use a sponge--I prefer a round one--and really scrub it.
> We used a lot of very old saddles when we did CW reenacting and when we also filmed a few "Westerns." So, I am familiar with saddles left for decades in somebody's garage.
> ...


Omg I have always been _terrified_ of soaking my saddles. I had read once that soaking leather can destroy the fibers in the core of it and ruin the shine and blah blah blah.... I guess I have some work to do! 
Right now all I see that needs replacing are the little decorative bits of leather hanging around...those are gross and stiff and need to go OUT. Stirrup leathers are in good shape, the stirrups, which are wooden, are surprisingly in great condition and only needed a wipe-down. The latigos are in bad shape though. They feel really damp and like they're going to crumble at any moment. 
Last thing I need right now is a gallon of Neatsfoot....I'll post pictures tomorrow of the saddle as it is now, then in a couple of days I suppose I can put up more pics once I really do a good cleaning/conditioning on it. 
And thank you so much for the advice! I really needed that :lol:


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## PaintingPintos (Jul 24, 2012)

DraftyAiresMum said:


> What kind of saddle soap did you use?
> 
> I always use HOT water (as hot as I can stand) to wipe down my tack and when I apply saddle soap.
> 
> ...


I didn't know all these things about leather cleaning!! I've always been afraid of even touching my saddles with water (I guess it comes from suede knee rolls on my jumping saddle), and I'm still a little uncertain about getting the sheepskin bottom wet. Also is there any way of getting rid of that moldy smell from the bottom? I'd leave it in the livingroom overnight but it's in the storage room downstairs because it's driving my asthma crazy!

Also, you did an amazing job on that saddle! I've always loved seeing dirt magically reveal a gleaming bit of tack, it's kind of like powerwashing an old sidewalk :lol:


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## DraftyAiresMum (Jun 1, 2011)

You can hose down the sheepskin and leave it out in the sun to dry. 

That little saddle was a great find. Paid $25 for it! :shock: I spent four hours cleaning it the first time. I need to go over it again now that I have small brushes to get in the cracks and crevices. 

My next project, though, is working on my "new" (to me) western saddle. It's not in horrible shape, but it needs some love.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

Saddle leather is skin. skin can get wet without issue. if it dries out in a too hot room, it will not only lose the moisture, but it will lose the oil/fat, too. so, dry in a warm but not hot room. moistureize with the correct form of oil.

mineral oil is NOT the right oil for a skin product. mineral oil would not be a good product to put on your skin, nor is it correct for leather. it is not an organic prodcut. you need an organic product , like neatsfoot or olive oil. put the oil on before the leather is totally dried out. nearly dry, but still lighly damp is ok.

it's the same for applying a moisturiizer on your own skin, after your bath or shower; apply before your skin is fully dry.

do not buff for any sort of shine until the leather is FULLY DRIED. I like to apply a layer of saddle soap (glycerin) that is very low in water content, on top of the oiled leather. this wil buff to a good shine and will wash off with your next cleaning and carry the dirt off with it.


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## aspin231 (Mar 20, 2010)

tinyliny said:


> Saddle leather is skin. skin can get wet without issue. if it dries out in a too hot room, it will not only lose the moisture, but it will lose the oil/fat, too. so, dry in a warm but not hot room. moistureize with the correct form of oil.
> 
> mineral oil is NOT the right oil for a skin product. mineral oil would not be a good product to put on your skin, nor is it correct for leather. it is not an organic prodcut. you need an organic product , like neatsfoot or *olive oil*. put the oil on before the leather is totally dried out. nearly dry, but still lighly damp is ok.
> 
> ...


I agree with everything said, except for the olive oil suggestion, or any vegetable oil for that matter. I worked at a tack and repair shop for awhile and the owner explained to me that any vegetable oils eventually go rancid in the leather (about 6 months-2 years later) and that it can ruin the leather at that point.
That said, others may have had positive experiences, but I personally would stick with either a good, commercial conditioner or well-trusted oil such as neatsfoot.
Best of luck, let us know how the saddle turns out.


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

I don't use olive oil. only mentioned it becuase several others here said they used it.

I use neatsfoot oil, and sometime Lexol leather conditioner. neatsfoot oil shoudl be used very spraringly, and not every time you clean. and very rarely on the stirrup leathers, or things that stretch due to being pulled.


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## DraftyAiresMum (Jun 1, 2011)

tinyliny said:


> I don't use olive oil. only mentioned it becuase several others here said they used it.
> 
> I use neatsfoot oil, and sometime Lexol leather conditioner. neatsfoot oil shoudl be used very spraringly, and not every time you clean. and very rarely on the stirrup leathers, or things that stretch due to being pulled.


This is why I love my Skidmore's. I can use it generously on any part of the saddle (except suede) without worrying about if I'm using too much or if it's going to be on something that can stretch (like stirrup leathers). It's beeswax-based, so it waterproofs as well, the more you use it.
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## awolfsong (Jul 21, 2014)

If the furry underside is genuine sheepskin you can use a dry hair cleaning product like is used for invalids and or pets. If it is synthetic use a box of baking soda. For the shampoo stuff just follow the directions. 

To use the baking soda, be liberal. Run your fingers through the 'fur' and work the soda in down to the fabric backing. Leave it in at least overnight but several days won't hurt it. When you are ready to remove it just turn the saddle fuzzy side down and pat/rub/work the fibers so most of it falls out. Once you have gotten most of it then flip the saddle upside down again and simply vacuum it, taking it to one of those car wash vacuums if necessary. The baking soda will remove most of the smell and a lot of the dirt as well.

Do NOT use baking soda on sheepskin fleece as it will dry it out!


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Working on saddles is my trade and I've set more than a few outside during a heavy downpour. The saddle is then moved to a shady breezy area to dry which takes a couple of days. While still barely damp I'll saddlesoap it to lift old dirt using vinegar water, about 50/50. After the soaking the leather feels much more pliable. Only after this stage has dried to I assess the leather to see if it needs oil. I use a paint brush and brush on heated neatsfoot oil. The brush makes this go quickly and gets into all the nooks and crannies. In some areas the leather drinks up the oil so quickly it appears that it was missed so it gets a little more. The saddle rests overnight. If oil remains on top of the leather it is wiped off. This is allowed to dry completely then it usually buffs up to a nice sheen. The process takes about 7 days.


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## PaintingPintos (Jul 24, 2012)

I haven't forgotten about ya'll!!

So the saddle, previously, was a bright bright red. I used mineral oil to condition it after I soaked and dried the saddle, since the local tackshop was closed yesterday. Used Neatsfoot today and it seems like the leather has darkened a LOT.

Also, I still feel like I ruined the leather! The leather under the fenders (the flesh) is really roughed up....when I rinsed off the saddle SO MUCH red water was coming off. Looked either like bright red dye or like arena dirt to me. I really had to soak it and rub hard with a sponge to get it all out, my father suggested I take it all out since it'd darken anyway.

Well, here it is in all its glory. Need to condition and polish it again, but this is it so far. Also, a little caterpillar friend dropped by halfway through, lol...

Another thing...I found out that the saddle had been sitting in my uncle's house for over 20 years. It's probably 30-45 years old total...how cool is that?? My aunt's initials are poked into the back!
































































Edit: the pics came out really nice.... wheeee


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## Nikkibella (Mar 10, 2012)

Oh wow. I've never even sat in a western saddle but I love that saddle!!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## PaintingPintos (Jul 24, 2012)

Nikkibella said:


> Oh wow. I've never even sat in a western saddle but I love that saddle!!
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


It looks great so far, but I just need to get rid of those darn scratches! The fenders too are "sticky" and after I pulled them down I can't get the leather back up. I can't wait until it's finished


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Did you work on the leathers to soften them especially that area where they go around the tree? Let the saddle dry a few days. When you try to get the fenders back up, push on the leather where the fender is attached and pull on the other end in a push/pull fashion. If that doesn't work, find a good strong man and get him to do it. Works every time.


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## baysalways (Aug 5, 2014)

Clean saddles aren't supposed to be shiny. The conditioner is supposed to add some grip to the saddle. Doesn't sound like you've ruined it to me.


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## PaintingPintos (Jul 24, 2012)

Saddlebag said:


> Did you work on the leathers to soften them especially that area where they go around the tree? Let the saddle dry a few days. When you try to get the fenders back up, push on the leather where the fender is attached and pull on the other end in a push/pull fashion. If that doesn't work, find a good strong man and get him to do it. Works every time.


I don't think I worked enough oil into the saddle before I took the pictures. Today around 7 I went to Tractor Supply Co and got my gallon of Neatsfoot and slathered the saddle in it. The leather darkened a lot and the tones are way more even now, which I like, and also it's seeming a lot more supple. Fenders are still stuck, my father is super strong and managed to get them moving, but after that they got stuck again. I guess I'll wait for them to dry out a touch then get them moving again!



baysalways said:


> Clean saddles aren't supposed to be shiny. The conditioner is supposed to add some grip to the saddle. Doesn't sound like you've ruined it to me.


Sounds good to me! I guess I'm just really used to shiny English saddles. I love immaculate tack but this seems as good as my Western saddle is gonna get


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## 6gun Kid (Feb 26, 2013)

PaintingPintos said:


> Omg I have always been _terrified_ of soaking my saddles. I had read once that soaking leather can destroy the fibers in the core of it and ruin the shine and blah blah blah....


That statement has terrfied more than one saddle owner. The whole reason leather is used in saddles, tack, harness, heck even boots! Is it has a naturally able to get wet. and then dry back to its normal shape. In fact, when I teach people to clean their saddles, I have them by the glycerin barsimply because it forces them to use more water. So do like Corporal said and wet it down and scrub that sticky off, let it dry in the sun. This not only dries the saddle but warms the leather so "takes" better. Go slow and steady to avoid "runs" or drip marks. ETA I cannot see any pictures.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

I have refurbished hundreds of saddles, many of which were stiff as a board dry. I try to take b&a pics because in a few cases the owner didn't recognize the saddle until the saw the pics. I've learned a trick or two to take the saddle from "nice" to "that can't be mine!". 
PaintingPintos - the most common reason the leathers are stuck again is your father hit the bend in the leather, where it had bent around the tree for years. The next time you loosen it, pull it well down until you can see it then give it a good soaking. The rough side of the leather will soak up more than the polished side. If you lay the saddle on it's back there's less chance of water dripping where it will leave visible marks.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

In case anyone doesn't know this: should you accidently get a splash or dribble of water on your saddle, immediately wet the rest of the piece of leather. This will prevent a water mark. When cleaning a saddle, if you don't have time to complete it, it is ok to do it in stages but do complete the piece of leather you've started on. eg don't do half a fender, do it in it's entirety. Two pieces of leather that are often ignored is the backside of the fenders which accumulate dirt and sweat, especially the lower third. Twice yearly take the saddle outside and remove the stirrups. Use a sponge to dampen the entire back of the fender. Now, lather up your hand with saddlesoap, even a bar of Dove is fine. Have a big bucket of water handy. Apply to the back mainly where it's dirty. Dunk your hand an lather up again. Allow this to sit for a few minutes. Now, using a small brush (nail brush) dunk it and start at the top and let the water run down. Keep dunking as you work your way down the leather. As you get to the dirt the water will turn muddy. Just keep dunking and brushing until there's no more muddy colored water. Allow about two days to dry.


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

The ONLY thing to be careful about with Neatsfoot Oil is that you can stretch the leather if you use it on tack and then immediately use it. Since you are reconditioning this leather, if you use Neatsfoot Oil, let it sit for a good week to dry.
I recently bought some cheapo leather tack and pieces at an online tack shop sale. I poured the oil into a bucket and thoroughly soaked my tack--rein sets and a breastplate--until all of the air bubbles disappeared, and then I hung them to drip and dry. It's been a good two months, but I could have just waited one week, and then the leather won't stretch.
We used to be CW Reenactors and some of the saddles we have are vintage 1903 and that means that the rawhide under the leather was probably stretched on them for the Civil War. There were more McClellan Saddles produced for the American Civil War than at any time afterwords. So, the rawhide is possible 150yo, and at least 100yo. I use Neatsfoot oil on that AFTER I thoroughly hose it off. I don't think that you saddle is nearly as old.
I always enjoy rubbing the leather skirts, etc. with Neatsfoot oil after I've washed off the dirt, and it really does immediately soak in, just like you didn't put any oil on at all!
There are WONDERFUL leather products on the marketplace today. But, we live in such a microwave society that everybody wants to do it fast and then use. They have been developed by master saddle makers and are worth buying. Those products cost a LOT more than saddle soap, glycerine soap and Neatsfoot oil. So, you need to budget for that. 
I learned about tack care when I was running a small riding academy and owned 7 English saddles, 5 Western saddles 6 McClellans and ALL of the bridles and leather extras that I needed for my lesson program and for out 26 years of reenacting. Cleaning was always a massive project, BUT, I only had one piece of tack break during my lessons--a canvas English girth that ripped on the canvas. Won't buy/use canvas girths anymore. (The canvas CW repro surcingles have never failed us.) Of COURSE reins broke, but by cleaning them I could see the ones wearing and replace them before they broke during a lesson. Only had one rein break during use. It was on a Cav bridle, at an event, and on MY horse! Somebody else spotted it, I changed it out. I was riding "Corporal", (1982-2009, RIP) so I wasn't in any danger. =b
Btw, there is a story about Annie Oakley. When she was in the "Wild West Show", she complained about using cheap tack, was countered, and then walked over to a saddled horse and ripped the saddle off by the worn out girth. NOT taking care of your leather and then riding with it is an accident waiting to happen.


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## Golden Horse (Feb 20, 2010)

Sounds like you are doing a great job, is't it rewarding seeing the leather come back to life as you work on it. I've done a few now, but this was my first and still the one I am proudest of


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## Zexious (Aug 2, 2013)

^Lovely! <3


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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

I used to hose my saddles over after particularly muddy hunting days - it never hurt them!!!
I use something called Ko-Cao-Line on any tack that seems too dried out or that's had to have some extreme cleaning - otherwise just saddle soap and a good leather dressing


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Unfortunately I didn't get "after" pics as a fellow had to have the saddle before it was dry. No chance even to buff it up. It had been in a barn about 6 yrs above a cement floor so the smell of mildew was almost overpowering. It was set out in a good downpour for a good soaking. It then got a good soaping with vinegar water and allowed to almost dry then a hot oiling. New screws and strings were added. It had been a freebie so I made a handsome profit on it. The grey color is thick dust.


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## Tack Collector (Nov 10, 2009)

I like to use Bick 4 conditioner on the stirrup leathers, the part that loops over the saddle tree. It's not a great conditioner, and I think it actually dries out leather. It makes skin peel off my hands, too. But it has a paraffin (wax) type additive in it that remains on the surface of the leather and that makes the leathers slide better. I think that's actually the best use for Bick 4, haha.


Was it sitting in a house with heavy cigarette smokers? That might have been (part of) the sticky residue. I literally spent 4 full days cleaning a carpet and 2 upholstered chairs that were brown from cig smoke. I used a Bissell ProHeat 2x model 9400 carpet cleaner and the hose attachment on it. I found I had to use copious amounts of water to get that stain out after I'd used a strong concentration of rug shampoo to loosen it from the carpet and upholstery.


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