# Fly control on manure piles?



## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

As most of you know, I've just moved my two horses to our place a few weeks ago. I'm really trying hard to stay on top of manure management to avoid adding to the number of flies we already have here. Thankfully, the barn is pretty much fly-free despite the fact that I leave the dutch doors open most of the time. I do clean the stalls aggressively and the cool, dry and well-ventilated barn just doesn't seem to attract flies (so far). The horses often go in on their own accord several times a day just to get away from the flies. I'm really glad I put in the dutch doors for that reason. 

I go around the paddock and clean up the manure at least once a week. I have yet to do the big pasture, but will do it this weekend using my four-wheeler and trailer. What I do notice, when I pick up the manure, is that it is just covered in flies. Sometimes big, brown flies I've never seen around here before, sometimes little tiny black flies, like gnats, that are just torture for me and the horses. So it got me thinking about the manure pile and how it must be a breeding ground... so, any tips on reducing flies/larvae on the manure pile? Right now it's still small, but obviously, it will get bigger. I have one pile at the back of the barn and another composting pile further down my property (we put gates in strategically so DH can easily haul it away). I did some reading about composting, but really, at this point, I'm not prepared to build bins and aerate. I think turning over the pile might help so I'm prepared to do that. But is there anything you do to reduce the number of flies breeding in your manure pile? I use wood pellets for bedding if that matters. They decompose faster than shavings. Could I throw on grass clippings or sawdust or lime over the manure to create a barrier? Would it be better to put a tarp over it or let it dry in the sun? Neither pile is really that wet (there is no standing water around it) nor are they in danger of running off into a water course. 

I've started turning the horses out at night too because it's too unbearable during the day, even with fly spray on.


----------



## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Just stumbled on manure management website that recommended adding hydrated lime to manure piles that might be breeding grounds for flies. Did anyone try that? The good part is that the lime would also be beneficial to the soil once the manure is composted.


----------



## HombresArablegacy (Oct 12, 2013)

Rather than dumping the manure in piles, it's better to spread it with a manure spreader, should help keep flies down. With only 2 horses, spreading it should be easy. You can get a manure spreader that tows behind a riding mower or atv for about $700. I've got a newerspreader, all stainless steel and aluminum so nothing to rust. 
Found out from my years in Fla that large piles of manure can spontaneously combust from sitting in the sun! It's much easier to spread it so it breaks down faster and keeps the flies down. 

https://newerspreader.com


----------



## horseluvr2524 (Sep 17, 2013)

You could also try Fly Predators, or something similar. I forget what kind of bugs they are but they literally eat fly, gnat, etc. larvae. They are for systems like you have with a stationary manure pile.

I personally have never boarded at a place that had a manure pile. Its a different world here in AZ. Most people put it in dumpsters/garbage cans that get picked up once a week. A lot of other people spread it and dry it out and actually use it as arena footing. Strange, but true. And it does work, but only because its so intensely hot and dry here. For the people that do have manure piles, I've heard really good things about Fly Predators.

Another thing you can do is a fed fly control. Usually a supplement fed to the horses that makes the manure less attractive to flies. Seems to work well at my new barn. BO uses Permaguard on all horses. Honestly, this barn has the lowest fly count I have ever seen in our area. I'm thinking Permaguard has something to do with it.

Oh, and if you want some really intense fly spray that no bug will go near, get UltraShield EX. It was literally the only thing that kept my poor horse bite free, as she is fly sensitive. Now I mix my own, and with the low fly count I find fly sheets and spray almost unnecessary.


----------



## sarahfromsc (Sep 22, 2013)

I second the fly predators. Work well where I board, and I will try them when we move in August.


----------



## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

I don't have room to spread the manure (half acre turn out, 2 horses). It is scraped up twice daily and dumped in a wooden slatted 10 x10 bin, and carefully kept covered. If we had a tractor with a loader we could turn it but presently we don't. Once the bin is full we let it compost for at least 6 months and then give it away or use it on our own gardens. We have two bins, one cooking and the other being filled.

We use a fly predator program (Spaulding) which sends out a package of larvae once a month starting in spring and ending in late fall. They are parasitic wasps, smaller than fruit flies and perfectly harmless. Flies are pretty minimal this summer, it's been mostly rather cool.


----------



## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

HombresArablegacy said:


> Rather than dumping the manure in piles, it's better to spread it with a manure spreader, should help keep flies down. With only 2 horses, spreading it should be easy. You can get a manure spreader that tows behind a riding mower or atv for about $700. I've got a newerspreader, all stainless steel and aluminum so nothing to rust.
> Found out from my years in Fla that large piles of manure can spontaneously combust from sitting in the sun! It's much easier to spread it so it breaks down faster and keeps the flies down.
> 
> https://newerspreader.com


I'm not interested in spreading fresh manure where my horses graze and there really isn't anywhere else to put it. 

Also, we are not in Florida  We are still getting frost at night and everything remains very damp (though not soaking wet). No chance of any spontaneous combustion going on here!


----------



## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

horseluvr2524 said:


> You could also try Fly Predators, or something similar. I forget what kind of bugs they are but they literally eat fly, gnat, etc. larvae. They are for systems like you have with a stationary manure pile.
> 
> I personally have never boarded at a place that had a manure pile. Its a different world here in AZ. Most people put it in dumpsters/garbage cans that get picked up once a week. A lot of other people spread it and dry it out and actually use it as arena footing. Strange, but true. And it does work, but only because its so intensely hot and dry here. For the people that do have manure piles, I've heard really good things about Fly Predators.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the suggestions! I see there are some sites that provide fly predators to Canada. I'm very reluctant to introduce species that may not already live here. It doesn't take much to disrupt a whole ecosystem. But I will have a look. 

Will also look into feed through fly control methods. Kodak's previous owner fed her sulfur and she claimed it helped.

I use the UltraShield fly spray, but maybe not the EX. 

We live in a climate where the fly season is extremely short, but very intense. Also, because of our cold weather climate, it takes about 3 years for a manure pile to compost properly. It never dries out completely. In the meantime, it attracts flies. I will try some hydrated lime over the manure and investigate those other options.


----------



## sarahfromsc (Sep 22, 2013)

Also, dragging your pasture will spread out the piles, which dries them out faster, which means less flies.

Just a lawn tractor/tractor, a section of chain link fence, and a cinder block or two. Instant drag!


----------



## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

sarahfromsc said:


> Also, dragging your pasture will spread out the piles, which dries them out faster, which means less flies.
> 
> Just a lawn tractor/tractor, a section of chain link fence, and a cinder block or two. Instant drag!


Maybe in some locations, but not here. 

According to this site about manure management in a Canadian climate: 

"Another excellent method of handling manure during the dry season is to run a harrow (or chain drag) through your paddocks or pastures. This broken up manure will dry out quickly and if there is no moisture (or even reduced moisture) the flies cannot reproduce. Remember that the fly larval developmental cycle is about 7 days so the manure should be dried out before that time or you are just increasing the surface area for breeding and compounding the problem. If you are in a humid region, it is best to wait until cooler temperature in the fall before spreading the manure."

Being in Eastern Canada, I live in a humid climate where it's unlikely the manure would dry out fast enough. All I'd be doing it provide a larger breeding ground AND potentially spreading worm larvae back to my horses. What I've observed when picking up manure is it takes a couple of weeks to really start to look like it's changing consistency. Given that I only have one pasture for my horses, it's not like I can spread it somewhere else and wait a month to put the horses back on there. 

My plan is to compost in three piles. Our horsey neighbors say it takes three years for a manure pile to compost completely. The composting piles are well away from the house, but since flies can have a pretty large territory, they can still get to us. Therefore my question is what can I put on the composting piles to reduce the fly population?


----------



## sarahfromsc (Sep 22, 2013)

I managed horses in Virginia, which is very humid, and in South Carolina, which is beyond humid and one can cut the air with a knife, and dragged pastures once a week. It helped tremendously, despite the 100 percent humidity.

I still recommend the fly predators if you fell comfortable with it.

You can cover the composting manure with black plastic in order to help the composting process and keep the flies off the pile. I do that in my backyard since I compost table scraps, grass clippings, fall leaves, and horse and chicken manure! I am always in need of the black gold for my gardens!


----------



## anndankev (Aug 9, 2010)

Put a screen tent around them? LOL

I've seen some fantastic homes (well pictures of them anyway) that have entire yards enclosed, sort of like an aviary. Except fine enough netting to screen bugs out.

Or a 'cross' between that, and an easy up type canopy with screen walls.

Hey, how about those EZ up canopies?

So, would screening in 10 x 10 bins be a viable idea?


----------



## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

I really don't think the parasitic wasps are going to disrupt the ecosystem. Their only host is houseflies. I highly recommend reading the Spalding Labs literature on the subject, on their website.

They also have very good ideas on other ways to reduce flies. Essentially, flies need WET manure to breed. Once it is dried, it's useless to them. That is the biggest reason to keep collected manure covered, and to collect as often as humanly possible. 

Also, different fly species need different parasites, or if there are no available parasites, other control methods, mainly trapping. Spalding goes into all that too.


----------



## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

The fly predators won't interfere with anything - other than the flies that lay eggs in manure, I would recommend using them
Another thing to try is a 'feed through' that also stops eggs developing in manure - though the active in them is Diflubenzuron (Dimilin) and if you can get hold of that and spray your muck heaps with it its much cheaper
Covering muck heaps with a waterproof fabric is probably the cheapest way to reduce flies on them and stop them breeding in them, that works best if you build a wood or block sided compounded for storing manure


----------



## horseluvr2524 (Sep 17, 2013)

@Acadianartist

Your friend is right about the sulfur. I learned this only recently myself. Sulfur is in garlic, and most other well known natural fly deterrents. Sulfur is the reason why they are fly deterrents. So I know for a fact that feeding sulfur will reduce the incidence of flies landing on your horse. I'm not sure if it will work for manure though.

TSC has a sulfur salt block I wanted to get for my horse, but my local store doesn't carry it. Darn. :sad:

Lime is also a good idea. I really think your best bet is using one of the bugs (like Fly Predators) that will feed on the larvae.


----------



## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

Everyone I know who uses the predators has nothing but good things to say about it. 

I know the chemical feed additive also works but I'd much rather use something natural than run a continual stream of pesticide through my horse.


----------



## greentree (Feb 27, 2013)

I would definitely drag the pasture. The horse manure is organic matter, which grows beneficial fungi, which aerate the soil, and help it hold water, which helps the nutritious grass to grow, which makes your horse healthy.


----------



## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

greentree said:


> I would definitely drag the pasture. The horse manure is organic matter, which grows beneficial fungi, which aerate the soil, and help it hold water, which helps the nutritious grass to grow, which makes your horse healthy.


But if you drag fresh manure, you're just spreading around worm larvae! I know some of you do this, and that's fine, but I don't want to leave fresh manure laying around my pasture/paddock. Every site I consulted says you need to let the manure compost before spreading it in a field where horses will be grazing in the immediate future.


----------



## sarahfromsc (Sep 22, 2013)

I would be interested to read the literature if you wouldn't mind posting it. I am always willing to learn something new. And horse keeping keeps evolving and I want to evolve with it.

With that said, once the manure is dragged the air/sun/wind dries out the manure killing what needs killed. As mentioned earlier, the flies need the moist piles of manure.

Ever see what you think is a dry pile of poop and you go to rake or break it up, and it is all moist inside? The dragging dries all of it out, and quickly too.


----------



## Blue (Sep 4, 2011)

*Acadianartist*, I rake my stalls daily and deposit the manure in a pile at the back of our property. I then sprinkle it liberally with diatomaceous earth. This goes a long way to keeping the flies from laying their eggs in it. Plus any larvae that is already there will die when it crawls through the DE. When you have livestock of any kind you can't escape the fly problem entirely. Only keep it survivable. Anyway, that's what I do.

Then, as time permits I load it into our 6x12 dump trailer and take it to our local dump. At regular intervals we turn our pile with the tractor to keep it drying. Sprinkle with the DE daily.


----------



## greentree (Feb 27, 2013)

Acadianartist said:


> But if you drag fresh manure, you're just spreading around worm larvae! I know some of you do this, and that's fine, but I don't want to leave fresh manure laying around my pasture/paddock. Every site I consulted says you need to let the manure compost before spreading it in a field where horses will be grazing in the immediate future.


Unless you are there to catch it before it hits the ground, the larvae have already headed into the soil. If you leave it, it gives the natural predators a chance to take care of them.


----------



## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

sarahfromsc said:


> I would be interested to read the literature if you wouldn't mind posting it. I am always willing to learn something new. And horse keeping keeps evolving and I want to evolve with it.
> 
> With that said, once the manure is dragged the air/sun/wind dries out the manure killing what needs killed. As mentioned earlier, the flies need the moist piles of manure.
> 
> Ever see what you think is a dry pile of poop and you go to rake or break it up, and it is all moist inside? The dragging dries all of it out, and quickly too.


Happy to share some of the literature I've read that cautions against spreading raw manure in areas where horses will be grazing. Please understand though, I am not telling anyone what to do, just explaining why I don't think this method will work for me. If you have several pastures, and can rotate your horses for several weeks at a time, maybe it works for you. 

Here's one: "ideally, horses should be removed from the pasture for two to four weeks after harrowing" in a paragraph about harrowing in fresh manure. http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/agdex8014#tospread 

And another: " Don't spread fresh manure on pastures where horses will graze anytime soon. It may contain parasite eggs that can survive for weeks or months, ?depending on conditions. It'll do no harm on pastures that are being rested or grazed by other species, though." Horse Manure Management: Solve the Horse Manure Pile Problem | Practical Horseman Magazine

And another: "Spreading incompletely composted manure on horse pastures should be avoided due to the risk of infecting pastures with internal parasites." Spreading Manure on Horse Farms - eXtension

I'm sure I could find ten more that say the same. Again, everyone is free to do as they see fit, but I do not feel it's wise for me to spread fresh manure in my small pasture.


----------



## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

Chain harrowing to spread manure is OK if you have a large acreage or can rotate horses frequently between several small paddocks but its not something I would ever consider doing on a small paddock if that was all I had
The worm larvae do move around quite fast but the horse poops out eggs that then hatch in the manure into larvae that will them migrate so by spreading it around you're helping them to do that - true some will die but those eggs are very resilient and most of them will hatch.
On top of that by chain harrowing on the land that they're grazing on you're forcing them to eat around their own poop which horse will avoid doing given the choice.


----------



## blacroix (Jun 20, 2016)

I have my two horses out on a 2 acre turnout and used to have the same problem. My horses would retreat to their barn most of the day and neigh until fed inside instead of grazing. We started picking up the manure piles and composting as well but have found that raking/dragging the piles daily helped when our two bins became full. The only place we have the worst fly control is the low spots in their pen. My husband made a heavy rake to drag behind out ATV and it actually helps keep the pasture looking decent.


----------

