# horse won't hold still to be groomed! help please!



## gogohorses25 (Oct 20, 2015)

we recently got a young QH mare, but we're having a bit of trouble with grooming. she just won't hold still! she gets very nervous around the grooming tools and constantly moves away from them. she sometimes even kicks. now that its raining more and its muddy, she is especially dirty and we need to be grooming every day. i just tie her up and try to do it best i can without her squishing me. we do use a metal curry comb but we brush her VERY gently with it. she even doesn't like the soft brush. and picking her hooves is nearly impossible. she lifts up her foot, but she wont hold it up for more than 5 seconds before she starts kicking and tries to move around. she wont hold still and we really need to groom her, but i am hoping to find a way to make it all easier. does anyone have any suggestions?


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## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

Since I am going through something like this with my young horse, I will relate what works for me. 

First, don't think about today, think about her long life of being groomed that lies ahead. You want to handle her for the future, not the now. Your end goal is a horse who will stand still for anything you need to do to her. 

So first give up your idea of grooming her at all, and stick to the goal of her standing still. All flows from that. 

I found that not tying, but rather holding the lead rope, with a rope halter not a flat one (you get a lot more attention with one), I have a lot more ability to control her feet exactly when she moves them, hopefully when she just thinking about it. 

When your horse moves her feet, put her back where she was, and say whoa. That's it! But I mean every single time she lifts a foot. Remember you aren't grooming her right now. 

When she gives up and stands still (however long it takes), start touching her with your hand. Every time she moves, put her back where she was and say whoa. Don't say whoa until she's back where she was. 

Eventually, you can stroke every part of her with your hand and she won't move an inch. 

THEN you can pick up a soft brush. Really, ditch the metal curry. Those things can hurt. Get one of those rubber grooming mitts and use that, much gentler. 

Proceed very gradually and never let up on the correcting her moving her feet. Takes a lot of patience, but remember it is her future you are building now. 

I am not much of a horse trainer but I have groomed a lot of fidgety animals in my time, and it works the same way. You start out with the conviction that you are going to outlast this behavior. And you will. 

good luck!

ps: this technique never worked on my cat.


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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

first I'd have a VET come out and look her over. Could be pain related. 

If it's not pain it sounds like she needs a come to Jesus meeting. As soon as she so much as swishes her tail, wrinkles a nose or pins an ear you need to GET AFTER HER and make her think you are going to kill her for about 30 second. Make noise, chase her backwards, use your whip... Whatever you have to do to make her think that was NOT a good idea. From then on I'd carry a dressage whip and ANY TIME she makes a ****y face I'd whack her right across the butt. 

Lastly, please get yourself a trainer before you get hurt or your horse hurts someone else! I honestly think you way in over your head here.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

SlideStop said:


> first I'd have a VET come out and look her over. Could be pain related.
> 
> If it's not pain it sounds like she needs a come to Jesus meeting. As soon as she so much as swishes her tail, wrinkles a nose or pins an ear you need to GET AFTER HER and make her think you are going to kill her for about 30 second. Make noise, chase her backwards, use your whip... Whatever you have to do to make her think that was NOT a good idea. From then on I'd carry a dressage whip and ANY TIME she makes a ****y face I'd whack her right across the butt.
> 
> ...


That may work for a horse who knows better but it sounds like this is a young one who may not know much of anything. We need more information-is she an only horse, moved from companions for grooming, training level of both horse & handlers, spoiled etc.

I don't think getting after a really nervous horse would help to instill calmness. I would certainly not whip a horse for an expression.


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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

natisha said:


> That may work for a horse who knows better but it sounds like this is a young one who may not know much of anything. We need more information-is she an only horse, moved from companions for grooming, training level of both horse & handlers, spoiled etc.
> 
> I don't think getting after a really nervous horse would help to instill calmness. I would certainly not whip a horse for an expression.


To me this horses behavior is down right dangerous, whether it "knows better" or not. To me it sounds like this horse needs an attitude adjustment, and isn't "just expressing" its self. While I agree we should be respectful of our horses "wishes", for example this horse I wouldn't be currying to death, but there really isn't much of a reason for a horse to kick or squash their owner of a soft brush. Nervous or not I'd NEVER tolerate this behavior.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Chaz80 (Sep 29, 2015)

SlideStop said:


> first I'd have a VET come out and look her over. Could be pain related.
> 
> If it's not pain it sounds like she needs a come to Jesus meeting. As soon as she so much as swishes her tail, wrinkles a nose or pins an ear you need to GET AFTER HER and make her think you are going to kill her for about 30 second. Make noise, chase her backwards, use your whip... Whatever you have to do to make her think that was NOT a good idea. From then on I'd carry a dressage whip and ANY TIME she makes a ****y face I'd whack her right across the butt.
> 
> ...


Wow.. you really shouldn't own horses!!
If you think that's how to get a horse to trust you and let you do whatever you need to then your nuts!! And if your horses comply then they are doing it out of fear not because they trust you.
I am in no way an expert but I do own a jumpy mare and if I did what you suggested she would probably have killed herself out of sheer panic..NOT IMPRESSED but if that works for you then I pity your animals.


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## Tracer (Sep 16, 2012)

Chaz80 said:


> Wow.. you really shouldn't own horses!!
> If you think that's how to get a horse to trust you and let you do whatever you need to then your nuts!! And if your horses comply then they are doing it out of fear not because they trust you.
> I am in no way an expert but I do own a jumpy mare and if I did what you suggested she would probably have killed herself out of sheer panic..NOT IMPRESSED but if that works for you then I pity your animals.


Actually, SlideStop is 100% right. It's not so much about trust, it's about respect. The horse in question is being dangerous, and she clearly doesn't respect the OP's space, which will end up with the OP getting hurt, possibly seriously.

My lease horse gets impatient when being groomed and saddled, and is also very sensitive/ticklish. It didn't take long for him to realise that fussing was not on. It's not a matter of hurting the horse, it's a matter of making the horse think that if it keeps the bahaviour up, it WILL get hurt. Just like an alpha in a herd would do. Loud, cranky voice and a raised hand/whip will usually do the trick if the horse has any respect for you whatsoever.


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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

I took a look back and re-read the post. Originally I took it as the horse was trying to be aggressive (kicking, pinning the owner against the wall), but now I see it seems like more of a fear-based issue. While I do retract my statement, the kicking is still a no-go to me and needs to be corrected. 

Either way her behavior is dangerous, I'd suggest finding a trainer to help you sort through your problems. I used to work with a huge Belgian who was abuse and was similar to your horse. I'd bring him into a large stall or round pen haltered, grab a brush and just touch his shoulder with it. He would move all around and I'd keep his head flexed toward me. When he stop I stopped and rewarded him. We'd do it over and over again and shortly he'd stand still. He was afraid of blankets too and I eventually got him to except that by starting with a WASH CLOTH! Time and patience will likely solve your problem.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

Chaz80 said:


> Wow.. you really shouldn't own horses!!
> If you think that's how to get a horse to trust you and let you do whatever you need to then your nuts!! And if your horses comply then they are doing it out of fear not because they trust you.
> I am in no way an expert but I do own a jumpy mare and if I did what you suggested she would probably have killed herself out of sheer panic..NOT IMPRESSED but if that works for you then I pity your animals.


Trust me, you don't have to feel bad for any of my animals. I've worked for a lesson barn that always had horses in and horses out. I've worked with May types of horses and many habits. There are just certain behaviors that need a stop put to immediately. Not every method works for every horse. I don't use fear to make them comply, but I will use it to tell them that behavior is absolutely unacceptable. Some examples... A fjord who literally attempted to run me over for a peppermint, a gypsy horse who would purposely step on people's feet, a mouthy haflinger that bit HARD, a QH who would kick people she "didn't like". I'm not talking about knocking the snot out of every horse that looks at me funny, I'm talking about Capitol offenses that can seriously hurt or KILL a person. As for you jumpy mare, on the flip side maybe she jumpy because she doesn't trust you? :wink: My mare is very confident in me, she soft and supple, listens on the ground mostly to voice commands or light touch, and she meets me at the gate every day. I really couldn't be that bad of a horse owner.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Chaz80 (Sep 29, 2015)

SlideStop said:


> Trust me, you don't have to feel bad for any of my animals. I've worked for a lesson barn that always had horses in and horses out. I've worked with May types of horses and many habits. There are just certain behaviors that need a stop put to immediately. Not every method works for every horse. I don't use fear to make them comply, but I will use it to tell them that behavior is absolutely unacceptable. Some examples... A fjord who literally attempted to run me over for a peppermint, a gypsy horse who would purposely step on people's feet, a mouthy haflinger that bit HARD, a QH who would kick people she "didn't like". I'm not talking about knocking the snot out of every horse that looks at me funny, I'm talking about Capitol offenses that can seriously hurt or KILL a person. As for you jumpy mare, on the flip side maybe she jumpy because she doesn't trust you? :wink: My mare is very confident in me, she soft and supple, listens on the ground mostly to voice commands or light touch, and she meets me at the gate every day. I really couldn't be that bad of a horse owner.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


No she probably doesn't trust me yet I have only owned her for just under 3 months,but I would never dream of doing what you suggested just to get my way,there are ways of doing things and everybody has theirs.


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## greentree (Feb 27, 2013)

First, be sure you are not giving her the "honey, darlin, snook ums, sweety, beee ssttiilll, OoKk, eeaassyy," routine.

When she moves, give her a good yank on the halter,and say strongly, WHOA. STAND.
Using a brush, do NOT brush softly. Use a firm stroke. If she moves, try not to stop brushing, but repeat the commands. Remember, if you stop when she fusses, you just taught her to fuss. She got her way. You need to get your way, so don't quit.

I teach all my horses to ground tie exactly like AVna said, and they are much easier to control that way.


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

SlideStop said:


> I took a look back and re-read the post. Originally I took it as the horse was trying to be aggressive (kicking, pinning the owner against the wall), but now I see it seems like more of a fear-based issue. While I do retract my statement, the kicking is still a no-go to me and needs to be corrected.
> 
> Either way her behavior is dangerous, I'd suggest finding a trainer to help you sort through your problems. I used to work with a huge Belgian who was abuse and was similar to your horse. I'd bring him into a large stall or round pen haltered, grab a brush and just touch his shoulder with it. He would move all around and I'd keep his head flexed toward me. When he stop I stopped and rewarded him. We'd do it over and over again and shortly he'd stand still. He was afraid of blankets too and I eventually got him to except that by starting with a WASH CLOTH! Time and patience will likely solve your problem.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


:smile: I figured that post was written in haste or someone hacked your account because it didn't sound like the 'normal' you. All is good.


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## Incitatus32 (Jan 5, 2013)

I've broken this into segmants for my benefit and so I don't sound quite so non coherent :lol: 



gogohorses25 said:


> she gets very nervous around the grooming tools and constantly moves away from them.


The first thing I do with any colt is get them used to me being all over their body. I do not like to tie them and I don't like to be in an enclosed area. I hold the leadrope in one hand and I work from their face and go down their body. Before I do anything else with a colt I need to be able to stand and pet anywhere on them without them moving severely trying to get away or kicking at me. I don't mind it a colt moves away from me or walks around because it's natural. They're going to be nervous, that's why I hold the leadrope so I have control over their head and can keep us both safe. I move with the colt and will talk calmly to it, keep petting it and wait for it to stop moving. As soon as it stops moving away I go back to its head and pet it on the neck, removing the pressure and giving a lot of praise. Rinse and repeat. 

In the end I want the colt to turn and look at me with its head, if it does move I want it to only move two or three steps and stop on its own and I want it to be comfortable with me just petting it anywhere. 



gogohorses25 said:


> she sometimes even kicks.


As for the kicking that needs to be corrected now. I don't care if a horse kicks in fear or malice but it needs to know that's not an option. It a colt kicks at me (assuming it's fear based) I will make its feet move followed by a harsh "Quit it!" I use their head to yeild their hindquarters away from me and will only stop moving them when they comply with being moved and automatically yeild away from me. 

Obviously for a horse that does kick in malice I will give a CTJ meeting young horse or not. 

The key is making sure the severity fits the intention and what each individual can handle. When a young horse becomes deathly afraid and no longer thinks about what you're doing you have done your job wrong. 



gogohorses25 said:


> now that its raining more and its muddy, she is especially dirty and we need to be grooming every day.


This may sound crazy. Stop doing it every day. Young horses get extremely stressed. We're doing something that no one has done with them. It isn't "right" to them. I spend one or two days doing something and then give them a break, where I will either leave them alone or I will do something completely different that they know how to do. If your young horse knows how to lead, forget grooming and go take a walk around their paddock. If not give them a one or two day break, let them think it over and process that the brush or human didn't kill them. 



gogohorses25 said:


> she even doesn't like the soft brush. and picking her hooves is nearly impossible.


Hooves are probably one of the last things I do on a colt. A young horse has to be comfortable and still with me moving around them and brushing them before I will go near their feet. They have to have a solid respect for me (aka not kicking lol) and a good whoa. 



gogohorses25 said:


> she lifts up her foot, but she wont hold it up for more than 5 seconds before she starts kicking and tries to move around. she wont hold still and we really need to groom her, but i am hoping to find a way to make it all easier. does anyone have any suggestions?


If five seconds is too long go down. Just get the horse used to having its legs touched, when it's comfortable and not fighting you with that, teach it to just lift it's legs by pressure on them. If they just pick them up and set them down that's great, end of lesson. When I do pick a horse's feet up for the first few times it's just a one to two second hold and then down. Part of it might be that your throwing the colt off balance by picking them up too fast and holding them too long. You have to take micro steps with young horses, one second is enough, perfecting one foot before moving to the next is great, whoa is the best skill you will ever teach. 

If I haven't explained anything right let me know lol


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## Cordillera Cowboy (Jun 6, 2014)

Avna said:


> Since I am going through something like this with my young horse, I will relate what works for me.
> 
> First, don't think about today, think about her long life of being groomed that lies ahead. You want to handle her for the future, not the now. Your end goal is a horse who will stand still for anything you need to do to her.
> 
> ...


 ^^^. This is the base to work from. I can only add that anything dangerous, such as offering to kick or moving into or over a person is met with immediate and unmistakable correction. For me, that varies depending on the situation. It could be a thumb poke to the ribs, an open handed slap to the belly, or the full "come to Jesus" treatment that Slide Stop described. 

Here is some very similar advise given by Forum member Smilie on a thread about a hard to bridle horse. 

"I guess, I follow the motto of *'the obstacle is not the obstacle'*
Thus, a horse that won't load in a trailer is not 100% solid on leading (better exclude past wreck, or a trailer where horse can't balance )
Thus, first problem which you worked on, is the horse runs backwards, instead of obeying 'whoa. Does not really matter why.
Another example- a horse sidepasses away from a gate, into a leg, because he does not want to sidepass back up to that gate.
I don't get after him at the gate, but take him away, and really get him moving off of that leg. I then give him a chance to do the right thing , with light cues ".

So grooming is not the problem. It's simply how you discovered the problem. The horse needs to obey "whoa" and stand still, whether it's for grooming, saddling, the vet, farrier or anything else.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

When you hold a horse's foot up, particularly the hinds, you are removing it's ability to run away. You know there's no predator lurking about but her keen hearing tells her there's on a mile away. Tying a horse has the same effect. It can be a process helping alleviate the horse's fears. This is why throwing the lead rope over your shoulder often works well, not only for correction but the horse senses it can escape. Some horses have a higher sense of survival than others. Stand in front of the horse, put your hand up like a stop sign, approx. between it's eyes and nose, tell it to stand. Throw the lead over it's back. Place your left hand on the horse's neck, walk to it's shoulder, turn away and walk back around so you're back in front. If the horse stood still, offer it a small treat. Repeat the exercise only going a couple of steps farther each time, left hand remaining touching the horse, turn away and go back up front. Again treat. If the horse moves, start over going only to the shoulder again. Once you can circle the horse, take it for a short walk and start again only this time your won't be touching the horse. At some point the horse will likely move, Put it back and begin again with the hand. Do this in a paddock so the horse can't run off or has no where to go. The goal is that the horse remains while your circles get larger and larger or that you can walk 50' away then return. Always do the stop sign first and tell it "stand". I keep that work separate from whoa which to me is slow down. Stand means don't move


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## Avna (Jul 11, 2015)

Saddlebag said:


> When you hold a horse's foot up, particularly the hinds, you are removing it's ability to run away. You know there's no predator lurking about but her keen hearing tells her there's on a mile away. Tying a horse has the same effect. It can be a process helping alleviate the horse's fears. This is why throwing the lead rope over your shoulder often works well, not only for correction but the horse senses it can escape. Some horses have a higher sense of survival than others. Stand in front of the horse, put your hand up like a stop sign, approx. between it's eyes and nose, tell it to stand. Throw the lead over it's back. Place your left hand on the horse's neck, walk to it's shoulder, turn away and walk back around so you're back in front. If the horse stood still, offer it a small treat. Repeat the exercise only going a couple of steps farther each time, left hand remaining touching the horse, turn away and go back up front. Again treat. If the horse moves, start over going only to the shoulder again. Once you can circle the horse, take it for a short walk and start again only this time your won't be touching the horse. At some point the horse will likely move, Put it back and begin again with the hand. Do this in a paddock so the horse can't run off or has no where to go. The goal is that the horse remains while your circles get larger and larger or that you can walk 50' away then return. Always do the stop sign first and tell it "stand". I keep that work separate from whoa which to me is slow down. Stand means don't move


I like this. I just want to add, it is really helpful for groundwork to teach basic verbal commands. To me, 'whoa' means stop, stand, don't move. The other word I use most on the ground would be 'over', meaning move away from where I am tapping you, and 'back', meaning back up. If I need a horse to move faster or go forward while I am leading, I generally cluck to them. Maybe other people have better terms and I am sure they teach more words (longing needs words for the different gaits, at minimum). 

The trainer who started my horse apparently didn't use verbal commands at all so I had to teach from scratch -- my horse learned very rapidly. It's a good tool. Especially whoa, which can help enormously if your horse gets tangled in something -- just giving a scared animal a thing they know how to do, even if that thing is 'hold still', is surprisingly reassuring for them.

Of course you teach verbal commands the way you teach anything else: ask, ask more strongly, insist, release. Don't use the word command without being prepared to follow through, or you'll always have a sloppy inconsistent response.


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## greentree (Feb 27, 2013)

I have 2 separate commands, WHOA, which means stop (from movement), and STAND, which means stay still (from already stopped). This is important (to me) for the driving horses to have a distinction. 

'Move' or 'step' is important for hitching up. Proof that they really know exactly where they are is in hitching a horse, and after a few times they line themselves up Exactly in front of the carriage!


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## 7reining7training7gaining (Nov 7, 2015)

*Grooming and holding still*

One exercise you could try in the summer is just starting with baths. I like horses who like water, or at least tolerate it. 

Try not to get too upset with a foal. They need to know you are boss, but they need to know you are a smart boss and know what they can or cannot handle.

:blueunicorn:


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## gogohorses25 (Oct 20, 2015)

wow thank you everyone so much! a lot of different opinions here so I guess I'm just gonna see WHY she does what she does. If she just doesn't understand that i want her to hold still, I'll first teach her to. If she is just being rotten and doesn't WANT to hold still, i will take her back and make her stand there. If she ever kicks I will be sure to at least spank her and scold her and let her know that that is NOT acceptable. A lot of good advice was given so i think I know what to do now. Thanks, everyone!


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## ShirtHotTeez (Sep 23, 2014)

There is a lot of good advice here. I agree with working on getting the horse to stand and be touched.

My 2 cents worth - The metal curry comb is for cleaning the dandy and body brushes of hair while grooming, it is not actually for grooming the horse.

Use the body brush, and brush firmly. Horses can find it really annoying to be 'tickled' with a brush. Start with the neck and work back as far as you can. And try and cover more area each day.

The more you work with her the sooner she will settle and even enjoy being brushed.

You would both benefit from working with a trainer two or three times a week.


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## Yogiwick (Sep 30, 2013)

Agree, metal curries aren't even meant for grooming.
I love these: Rubber Jelly Scrubber - Horse.com they are gentle and the horses love them but they are effective as well and easy to use (flexible).

If a horse is genuinely caked in mud even the most careful brushing will tug at the hair.

Make sure the mud is dry, depending on what I see I often use a curry and a hard brush at the same time just to get it loose, when loose go back to your regular curry/hard/soft. Remember when you are currying and the mud isn't moving you are pulling the hair!

Make grooming enjoyable!!

Agree the issue isn't the grooming though. Bad behavior is NEVER acceptable. Whoa means whoa. THEN work on the grooming one step at a time. Does she know to lift her feet? Sounds like she may of never been taught properly. Don't fight with her, find a way to make her happy on your terms.

Really coated in mud or not she doesn't need to be brushed daily so don't worry about that.


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## Foxhunter (Feb 5, 2012)

I agree the metal curry is for cleaning brushes and although it does get into the dried mud it is not what it is for,

What I have found is great for removing mud and even fit, tight muscled, clipped racehorses don't mind it anywhere is to buy a packet of the stainless steel pot scourers, unravel them and plait six of them together to form a pad and use that. It removes the mud with little elbow grease.

I have said this before, not sure if anyone has tried it but I promise, it really works.

One thing I would say is that there is very little point in getting all the mud off of she is not being ridden first thing she will do is find more to roll in!


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## Whinnie (Aug 9, 2015)

Foxhunter, you have just described my mare. She makes it a point, as soon as I turn her out after a grooming, to find the only mud hole in the field and promptly roll (take that, owner!).


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## Foxhunter (Feb 5, 2012)

In one field we had a small puddle on the edge of the gravel around the gate. One mare, a white grey, would splash at this puddle making it bigger and bigger. She did a great job of splashing it all along her belly. 

The other horses would wait until she was finished and the one after the other, roll in it.


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## ShirtHotTeez (Sep 23, 2014)

Yogiwick said:


> Agree, metal curries aren't even meant for grooming.
> I love these: Rubber Jelly Scrubber - Horse.com they are gentle and the horses love them but they are effective as well and easy to use (flexible).


Those are great, but can still be a bit hard on a thin-skinned horse (ie. some arabs and thoroughbreds)


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## Yogiwick (Sep 30, 2013)

ShirtHotTeez said:


> Those are great, but can still be a bit hard on a thin-skinned horse (ie. some arabs and thoroughbreds)


Nope. They are far softer than a regular curry.

Unless the horse has some issue there's no reason not to use that I would say it's by far the gentlest curry comb on the market.

No way to show you in person but they are soft and flexible with little nubs of the same material.

The material is key as some can have similar designs but some be hard and others soft.

FWIW the horses I work with are mainly Arabs/TBs lol. I have never had a horse not like that of any breed/sensitivity.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Horse won't stand still. Take your grooming stuff, your lunge line, halter and whip and head out to an open area where you can safely lunge the horse. Set you stuff down and ask him to trot three circles, no more no less. then bring him in. Keep the whip handy. Begin grooming and as soon as he starts moving, send him out on the lunge looking like you plan on killing him. Make him trot 3 circles briskly then bring him in and start again. You may have to send him out a few more times but he'll start figuring out he can either stand or work and horses have an innate desire to conserve energy. Because he isn't tied when you go out, he may stand and allow you to groom him. He can see all around and can escape should that predator show up.


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## Foxtail Ranch (Mar 10, 2012)

Saddlebag said:


> Horse won't stand still. Take your grooming stuff, your lunge line, halter and whip and head out to an open area where you can safely lunge the horse. Set you stuff down and ask him to trot three circles, no more no less. then bring him in. Keep the whip handy. Begin grooming and as soon as he starts moving, send him out on the lunge looking like you plan on killing him. Make him trot 3 circles briskly then bring him in and start again. You may have to send him out a few more times but he'll start figuring out he can either stand or work and horses have an innate desire to conserve energy. Because he isn't tied when you go out, he may stand and allow you to groom him. He can see all around and can escape should that predator show up.


This is great advice. It allows the horse to move if it needs to. 

A variation on that idea is to bring all your gear to an arena. Hold the rope in one hand and start brushing. If the horse moves, move with him, still grooming. As soon as the horse stops moving, stop brushing and just stand still for 5 seconds. Start again, brushing. If he moves, move with him and continue brushing. As soon as he stops moving, stop brushing for 5 seconds. He will get the idea that the only way to get you to stop brushing is to hold still. 

This also works for spraying and clipping, which can be tricky to teach.


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## Alhefner (Nov 11, 2015)

Foxhunter said:


> One thing I would say is that there is very little point in getting all the mud off of she is not being ridden first thing she will do is find more to roll in!


^^^^^^ :iagree:That.

Animals LIKE their dirt.:rofl:

Really, the dirt isn't going to hurt her one little bit if left on for a week or so unless you plan on riding her... THEN all the dirt that will be under pressure from the saddle or cinches has to be brushed off so you don't create sores on your horse's skin.


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## Dustbunny (Oct 22, 2012)

I have found that one of the best grooming tools is your hand.


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## Yogiwick (Sep 30, 2013)

While I don't disagree with Saddlebag's technique I'm not sure this is the best application.

Reading between the lines I'm assuming the horse doesn't know how to lunge, is possibly too young to be being lunged as a "punishment" (though I understand the goal is to NOT chase the horse around) and there are also other issues going on beside the obvious. If the horse is young to the point where it doesn't know to behave for grooming...

Now for an older horse that knows better and is being a pain this has application, just not sure on this situation but the OP would be better able to figure that out obviously.


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## Captain Evil (Apr 18, 2012)

Foxtail Ranch said:


> This is great advice. It allows the horse to move if it needs to.
> 
> A variation on that idea is to bring all your gear to an arena. Hold the rope in one hand and start brushing. If the horse moves, move with him, still grooming. As soon as the horse stops moving, stop brushing and just stand still for 5 seconds. Start again, brushing. If he moves, move with him and continue brushing. As soon as he stops moving, stop brushing for 5 seconds. He will get the idea that the only way to get you to stop brushing is to hold still.
> 
> This also works for spraying and clipping, which can be tricky to teach.


This worked like a charm for our Arab mare, Jessa, who HATED being sprayed to the point of running backwards, even rearing. We filled a spray bottle up with water and just followed her, spraying. Every time she paused even for an instant, we quit and gave her a break. 

She caught on really fast. Eventually she stood fine, even when when spraying her face, (although we only sprayed her head with water, not the actual fly spray, which we always applied with a rag).


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Some horses can run faster sideways than humans can keep up.


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## gogohorses25 (Oct 20, 2015)

thank you everyone for all the input!!!!! i find your posts very helpful. anyways, so here is an update on how things are going:
after some training and groundwork we have done with her, she seems to have gained a huge amount of trust, respect, and obedience for us. so it seems that all the problems we were having before are diminishing all by themselves. i assume the whole grooming issue was just a lack of trust. the lunging and training issues we were having were a lack of respect and obedience. but good news, she is getting so much better with grooming! she holds still and allows us to pick up her feet and everything. she isnt scared of the brushes (so long as we brush gently) and she almost is coming to enjoy grooming time. it will take some time, but i think she is coming along nicely, thanks to all the help and advice we're receiving!
we have just recently been able to successfully lunge her! we have even started lunging her in an open area instead of the round pen. shes just doing great. and riding and training is all going wonderfully. but for a while there, if we ever tried to tell her to do something, she would turn her rear towards us and even kick at us! but we just smacked her hard on the rump with a crop and she eventually stopped entirely. now shes a real sweet-heart and minding great. so thanks everyone!  -gogohorses25


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## Yogiwick (Sep 30, 2013)

So great! I was just wondering about an update.

Isn't it amazing how being fair and firm while some frown on it as "mean" realy does produce a better AND happier horse.

Keep up the fantastic work!


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## gogohorses25 (Oct 20, 2015)

thanks!!!!! we'll try to! rode her again today, she did great. picking up trot nicely and her ground manners are just amazing! no pushing and shoving, very polite, yet sweet and loves to just be pet all over. doing great!


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## Yogiwick (Sep 30, 2013)

You should start a journal with her progress


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## Tnavas (Nov 29, 2011)

gogohorses25 said:


> we recently got a young QH mare, but we're having a bit of trouble with grooming. she just won't hold still! she gets very nervous around the grooming tools and constantly moves away from them. she sometimes even kicks. now that its raining more and its muddy, she is especially dirty and we need to be grooming every day. i just tie her up and try to do it best i can without her squishing me. we do use a metal curry comb but we brush her VERY gently with it. she even doesn't like the soft brush. and picking her hooves is nearly impossible. she lifts up her foot, but she wont hold it up for more than 5 seconds before she starts kicking and tries to move around. she wont hold still and we really need to groom her, but i am hoping to find a way to make it all easier. does anyone have any suggestions?


First and foremost - the Metal curry comb is not for use on the horse but to clean the body brush.

Try removing the dry mud with a handful of hay - its more gentle - also unless you HAVE to have a spotless horse just remove the mud from the areas that matter - from where the saddle, bridle and girth go. 

Be gentle with the stiff bristled brush, and be careful you are not catching her bony areas with the back of the brush. Use the Dandy brush only on the fleshy parts - never below knees and hocks or on the face as they can scratch the skin easily. Use the body brush for face and lower legs.

Some horses get stroppy when being groomed when they are suffering from stomach ulcers so it may be worth talking to your vet.

Otherwise make grooming a pleasant time - give a haynet or a feed to keep her busy.


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