# Remodelling the '81- questions inside



## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

Here's my first question. As a remodeling rookie I've heard that pressure treated wood is the way to go. Here's what I am looking to buy. Comments? Concerns?


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Strip it down and repaint the inside with Rustoleum which will help stop rust. Contact the trailer manufacturer and find out which wood is best to use. I know spruce can snap as it has rather short fibers. When mine was redone we left about 1/4" between the boards. They do expand a little so this allows better drying. To keep road dust out I put down two thin sheets of plywood then rubber mats. The plywood and mats should be removed each time the trailer is parked. When the floor is out do check the frame very carefully. Rusting often occurs where damp wood touches the frame so those are areas you want to clean well and paint. So few people check the frame. If any welding needs doing it's easier to do without the floor.


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## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

After further inspection, we realized the floor actually isn't that bad- only the two outer boards. Problem is that we're going to have to cut metal to deal with them and quite honestly don't want too. We were thinking about laying and welding in a piece of aluminum over the existing floor. What does everyone think of this? I like the idea of aluminum floors but not the fact they heat quickly- but with a layer of wood beneath it it would save my horses feet from longer travels. I know this isn't a permanent solution but it could be in the long run after the wood beneath is removed. 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## ChitChatChet (Sep 9, 2013)

I detest those ramps. So much so that I cut if off and made it into a swinging door. Much better. Put up with it for 10 years.

Blasted ramp was heavy even though it had springs to help it. Plus, we humans where always slipping on it even though it had rubber

Also cut out the center divider post while I was at it as it made it so I couldn't haul big things like fridges and washing machines LOL


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## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

ChitChatChet said:


> I detest those ramps. So much so that I cut if off and made it into a swinging door. Much better. Put up with it for 10 years.
> 
> Blasted ramp was heavy even though it had springs to help it. Plus, we humans where always slipping on it even though it had rubber
> 
> Also cut out the center divider post while I was at it as it made it so I couldn't haul big things like fridges and washing machines LOL


I am cutting the center divider out as well! They didn't call my thoroughbred dancer for no reason- he cannot keep still in small spaces and becomes very agitated if he doesn't have some room to, well, dance around LOL
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## PrivatePilot (Dec 7, 2009)

Anything over top of the floor, especially something that can't be removed (aka, your metal idea) will just accelerate the rot of the wood underneath it...which means eventually you'll be going from a slightly problematic board to a completely rotten one that can cause bigger problems.

If there is one thing you do NOT want to skimp out or try to "band-aid", it's the floor. Do WHATEVER is necessary to make it 1000000% safe. If you've ever seen the results of a horse going through the floor on a trailer you'd understand why. 

Floor boards are almost always designed to be easily removable, as like brake pads on a vehicle, they are considered wear items that every manufacturer knows will need to be replaced at some point down the road - it's inevitable with horse trailers. The end ones may be slid into channels on the outside frame rail so you may need to remove a few on the inside of the last board in order to slide over the outside boards and remove them - is that the issue you mention with regards to having to cut metal? But anyways, if that's what you need to do to replace these boards, *do it.*

Pressure treated pine is perfectly fine and will last - it's what I used in my rebuild after only being able to salvage about half of the existing flooring. Ideally there are hardwood options but the price is dramatically higher. I'd remove one of the existing boards first and confirm the dimensions match exactly, especially since you may find (as I mentioned) that the boards have to slide into channels in some spots - too thick and they won't go in.

Spacing between boards is important as well for drainage. I have a good 1/3 of an inch between mine so that nothing (including manure) gets firmly stuck - a little agitation and it goes through. Anything that gets stuck and holds moisture will dramatically accelerate rot. I do have stall matting throughout my entire trailer however so dust isn't an issue.

Don't forget to service the brakes and bearings - I agree flooring should be first and foremost, but often the brakes are neglected, and bearings even more so. Check the leaf springs, shackles and everything else out as well. You dont want to find out that the brakes are steel-on-steel, have a leaf spring or shackle snap and collapse the suspension, or burn out a bearing and loose a wheel on your first haul. :wink:


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## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

PrivatePilot said:


> Anything over top of the floor, especially something that can't be removed (aka, your metal idea) will just accelerate the rot of the wood underneath it...which means eventually you'll be going from a slightly problematic board to a completely rotten one that can cause bigger problems.
> 
> If there is one thing you do NOT want to skimp out or try to "band-aid", it's the floor. Do WHATEVER is necessary to make it 1000000% safe. If you've ever seen the results of a horse going through the floor on a trailer you'd understand why.
> 
> ...


I agree on adding something over the top will just increase the wood rot. Because this is an older trailer, we do not want to deal with the rusted bolts holing the floor together on the frame. When they were put it, they had to of sawed off the part of the braces because there are screws holding all of the boards down, but the heads are underneath the braces so we wouldn't be able to take any of them out without cutting into the trailer. We are going to bust out the floor, put more cross supports in and make this thing an aluminum floored trailer! Tired of dealing with wood 😑
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## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

Ignore my last post- we decided to go with cutting and chopping instead!


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## PrivatePilot (Dec 7, 2009)

Looks good, now you can get a really good look at the frame and all structural points where the flooring meets frame or supports.

It's also a very good time to redo any wiring as usually it runs along the frame rail in an area that is conveniently accessible with the floor removed. Anything suspect, old and dried out, frayed, or basically looking like it may be problematic down the road, consider replacing it - wire is cheap. :wink:

It's also a good time to inspect the axles and suspension parts from the inside as well without having to awkwardly climb under.


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## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

Everything passed our inspection- bearings were repacked and sealed, and we even cut plexiglass for the window. Will post photos when I ge them!
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## PrivatePilot (Dec 7, 2009)

Tylorjeanwagner said:


> Everything passed our inspection- bearings were repacked and sealed, and we even cut plexiglass for the window. Will post photos when I ge them!
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


New seals installed, and confirmed the condition and functionality of the brakes while you were in there I assume?


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

If you take out that center beam, eventually your doors won't close properly. Seen it happen before. It's like taking out a load bearing wall in a house.


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## ChitChatChet (Sep 9, 2013)

waresbear said:


> If you take out that center beam, eventually your doors won't close properly. Seen it happen before. It's like taking out a load bearing wall in a house.


The ceiling is well braced as are the walls so it shouldn't be any different than a horse trailer designed with just a swinging back door.

My trailer had a ramp plus the top half is 2 swing doors. Now its 3 swinging doors.

We certainly are enjoying the ramp and center beam being gone.


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## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

PrivatePilot said:


> New seals installed, and confirmed the condition and functionality of the brakes while you were in there I assume?


Yes! Also found a spare tire 😁
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

_Posted via Mobile Device_ here's a little snap of the floor, I'll get a picture of the window next.


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## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

and here's the window! We aren't worrying about the walls just yet- but as of right now we are ready to roll!


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## ChitChatChet (Sep 9, 2013)

The trailer doesn't have sliding windows? Seems it would need them.


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## Tylorjeanwagner (Nov 20, 2013)

ChitChatChet said:


> The trailer doesn't have sliding windows? Seems it would need them.


It does on the other side- the frame we had didn't work for the new side so we just put a straight piece on. Win some lose some.


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