# Can my suburban pull a trailer?



## Viranh

I am not an expert, but I think that a V8 with a tow rating of 7500 lbs and a factory tow package ought to be able to pull a small two horse trailer. Just make sure you install a brake controller.


----------



## Rideordie112

My family's v8 suburban has pulled a 4 horse trailer with 3 horses in it. Probably not the very best idea. But it worked fine for the 45 minute haul. And I use it to pull my one horse like twice a week.


----------



## horselovinguy

I believe the full size suburban sits on a truck chassis.

Yes it can tow a 2 horse trailer...as was suggested and by law it will need to have a brake controller installed to activate your horse trailer brakes.

I would also suggest equalizer bars between trailer and tow vehicle.
You are talking about a longer wheel base on the trailer with the added tack room and that of the tow vehicle, can mean more tongue weight than desired.
This will also help sway control and to even out your vehicles so you don't go down the road with your suburbans tail hanging low and your steering tires "light" in the air and the trailer nose heavy downward pointing so much...safer for all of you!

Just remember to not push that tow load to the highest amount...
When manufacturers put out those numbers they are "suggested" and the weight towed _is_ "dead weight" like a boat or camping trailer, _not_ a loaded horse trailer that can and does move around when the horses change their stance or lean on a side wall, butt bar or squabble with the horse sharing the area with them...
Vastly different to tow a boat/camper than a horse trailer...

Learn by going slowly and close to home at first...
When driving if you take a turn normally, you better take it with that trailer at 1/2 that speed...I go around corners at around 5 mph...maybe slower than many but my horses arrive in good mental shape not rattled and roughed up in their travels...and after we are done...they reload right up with no issues...
Easy, very easy on the starts and stops...no hard acceleration, no hard braking and learn to play lights so the less hitting the brakes the better...every time you accelerate or decelerate that horse needs to shift its weight around and regain their stance and balance...

Some things to think about...take a ride in that trailer yourself without holding on or leaning against a wall for support... a new view of what your animals goes through and better understanding of what you need to do from behind the wheel.

Safe travels and trailering...


----------



## Darrin

Can your Suburban tow the trailer you are talking about? Yes. Is it safe? Sorta and I wouldn't recommend it for livestock.

One other thing you need to look for is a transmission cooler. If it isn't there don't tow unless you want to rebuild your transmission.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## Red Gate Farm

Are your Safely towing your horses?

He uses plain language


----------



## Corporal

Good luck. SHORT HAULS ONLY and DO NOT OVERLOAD IT!!
I truly believe that you need a truck to haul horses in a trailer. We wore out our full ton 1984 Dodge truck pulling a 4-horse steel, at 142K miles, and I was at my wits end until Dodge came out with my old truck, 1993 3/4 ton Dodge Cummins. Even though I have a 2007 Dodge Cummins Full Ton, doolie, 4 x 4, I've kept the 21yo truck. Too bad you don't live closer. I'm selling it this Spring to buy a compact car for my business.
I still can haul 40 bales (65lbs) of hay with it, and it still cruises at 20 mph when you foot is off of the gas, in Drive and in Reverse.
VERY powerful engine and mine is rigged for both bumper hitch (with swaybars) and gooseneck. 
I have 117,000 miles on it and it lives in a garage.
Is this a sales pitch? YOU BET IT IS!!!


----------



## aureliusandoinky

Thanks for the help guys.

My dad did mention a transmission cooler and brakes on trailer...I just don't completely trust his judgement where this is concerned. I REALLY would prefer to have a truck just for my own peace of mind, but I think he is going to fight me on this until I just go along with it. 

I asked my trainer about it and she said absolutely not to the suburban towing a trailer. I may just have to get her to talk to him. 

So horselovingguy, when you're talking about the added dressing room are you saying the longer wheelbase is better or worse for safety purposes?


----------



## horselovinguy

aureliusandoinky said:


> So horselovingguy, when you're talking about the added dressing room are you saying the longer wheelbase is better or worse for safety purposes?


I am _not_ saying either way...it is _your_ decision and _your _project to gather the most information to make the best informed decision. You need to do the research about your particular vehicle then present the entire picture of pros and cons to your father.
I want no fingers pointed in my direction for an answer you may have issue with...everyone has a personal opinion and personal needs in their trailer.

I will say that you need to be careful to not "overwhelm" your tow vehicle with weight and hitch weight distribution ...
Only you can make the decision on what to tow with, what class of vehicle whether SUV, truck, or whatever. And what weight classification series of vehicle to choose.
I believe even Suburbans come in different weight classifications, chassis of light, med or HD suspension and equipment of trans., brakes, suspension, etc...or they use to.
It is you who needs to live with any decision that you make...good or bad outcome that happens.

Not meaning to sound nasty or evasive, but what I would do or someone else here and what you must do because of $$ constraints, current availability of a "tow vehicle" and the fact you have a parent already decided and "mind made up"....unless _you_ are going to go out and purchase the vehicle of your choice.
A true towing vehicle_ is_ a large expense new _or_ used...something to also consider as they are costly to run, maintain and just keep going down the road...they aren't cars or gas friendly usually either...
Make sure you have adequate or better vehicle insurance, if a payment on the trailer, trailer insurance and that you are covered for towing horses with your vehicles insurance carrier...usually a "rider" added to the policy and inexpensive but peace of mind when out there on the road hauling. 
If you are going to be towing invest in towing insurance. Think it is US Rider that covers horse trailers...like AAA but for the equestrian because to my knowledge no one else will touch a horse trailer especially a loaded one with issues.

Sorry, I won't tell you better or worse for safety reasons...
Before you even make that decision I think you need to determine what trailer manufacturer and model you are interested in and searching for as their honestly are to many variable with just a open question as you posed it.
Here is the best I will give you...
Dressing rooms can be nice, they can be a PITA, they can add to your trailers ease of use and they can take away from it. They can be a great place to store equipment safely and they can be easily stolen from...
Homework, you need to do your homework and research on the particular trailer you are interested in...be armed with concrete information you understand, what is meant by what you read , and then about that which you want to purchase. This is a large expense and one you can love or hate...
You also need to know _exactly_ what is in your vehicle when it was manufactured, what options and variables were put in to it...that all makes a difference.

Do some internet searches and read the articles about what to look for in a tow vehicle by experts, true experts who are very savvy in safe hauling of horses...read the good, bad and very ugly...again gather the facts and understand them so you can present them and refute or compliment what your father is telling you.
Time to hit the books, the internet, the blogs of manufacturers, consumer reports for vehicle reviews {yes some do horse trailers}...go out and speak to people and look, look, & look some more before you make a decision either way.

:wink:


----------



## aureliusandoinky

I don't take offense, and I would never blame anyone for a problem that is MY choice. That's why I'm doing research. It will be my dad's fault if something happens and I am ignorant, but if I am in agreement with him after doing my research, the fault will be mine. I don't intend the fault to lie with anyone but myself, because the horses are my property and I intend to protect what belongs to me. I won't put my blind faith in my dad, and so I wanted to ask you people YOUR opinions, simply because I am a sponge and am absorbing information. I have been reading, and researching. I've read that article someone else posted a few times, but because I'm starting from the bottom up it's difficult to absorb this much information without actually seeing parts and trailers and all that other stuff that goes into it. I was simply curious as to what /your/ opinion was. I won't take that and go with it as if anyone here is a expert, because I don't know you, and if I don't trust my dad on this issue, chances are I'm *really* not going to trust some internet people. If I actually believed you without checking the facts, I'd be a special kind of dummy. Also, I don't want anyone to think I am a spoiled girl that is wanting as much from daddy as possible. I realize that a trailer and truck is no small amount of money, and I view it as an investment that I intend to pay back in full. I am not trying to say that he won't give me what I want and buy me a truck, but considering that I will be paying him back and I will be using it, not him, I think it's fair that he considers my opinion.

Don't think that I'm going to hunt you down and sue you if I take your advice and it results in an accident. I'm seeking information and opinions, but that is where I draw the line. Ultimately it's my choice, and no one else's. 

So, if you don't want to say whether it's better or worse, would you mind explaining what exactly you meant by that little paragraph? I'm just trying to see it clearly in my head. You can omit any advice and just tell me what's going on with the vehicle and trailer weight wise, etc, all that mechanical stuff I don't understand.  I would appreciate it.

Thanks for mentioning the insurance, by the way. I didn't realize that such a thing existed for towing.


----------



## horselovinguy

OK...different manufacturers place axles in different areas depending upon the trailer and what is part of that trailer.
My neighbor has a custom trailer made...exact copy of what she had previous except it has a dressing/tack area {small one} The axles are in the wrong spot causing to much tongue weight that makes her truck hang low and front tires higher with poor road contact than they should be. She has a Chevy Silverado 1500 series...
That is an example of what I speak...

Every manufacturer does things differently in construction...some better than others. Some quality is better than others too.

Research on trailers and how they are made and what they are made of. Aluminum is not the way to go for everyone and I personally don't have them and don't want them...personal choice.
See, that is what I mean.
You need to do research on towing vehicles and the trailers. Then marry the two sources of information together and make some choices and decisions.

Go to some horse shows local and see what is out there, what they are towed by and how they look sitting there. Ask questions of the people, most will speak to you and answer a few questions.
Use that information, then add to it where you plan on traveling to, the terrain and weather conditions you will encounter. Remember what you go leave in may not be what you return home in either...

If you refer to...
My "paragraph" on what I would do... it *is* a personal preference as I put it...
I have seen some dressing room/tack areas that were great and some that weren't worth having. It has much to do with the trailer itself and manufacturer, how it was made and constructed, laid out and the actual trailer design over-all.
And it should also be something taken into strong consideration based upon the tow vehicle and what it can and can't do safely...
That is not cryptic, it is truth.

That "mechanical stuff" as you put it is exactly what you need to research and understand to be well informed. 
Keep reading, do more research and go ask questions at a trailer place. If a sale could happen they will take the time to start your hands on education...
Go to trailer manufacturer web sites...even older trailers have stats there that you can learn from. 
Being informed is what you need to be...

Try this article and see if it helps you some...
_http://extension.umd.edu/sites/default/files/_docs/articles/FS-955%20Selecting%20a%20Tow%20Vehicle.pdf
_:wink:


----------



## aureliusandoinky

Yep, informing myself is what I'm trying to do. Thanks!


----------



## Darrin

This is one of the big reasons why I don't recommend 1/2 tons for towing. They have what's called a C-clip rear end, that means if the axle breaks it can exit the vehicle. Not something you want to experience pulling your horse trailer and certainly not something your horse wants to experience. 3/4 and 1 tons have what's called a full floating axle, if it breaks you lose forward motion but your wheel stays where it belongs so you can safely stop.


----------



## PrivatePilot

I tow for a living, day in and day out...for 20 years and counting now, both commercially and recreationally. I'm a commercial driver licenced to tow 140,000+ lbs, and own a 1-ton dually diesel for my personal tow vehicle, commercial aside. 

So I speak from a bit of experience, not fear, uncertainty, and rumor. 

Surburbans are sturdy tow vehicles. They are NOT the trucks they were in the 80's when they were considered the "tow anything anywhere" rigs of lore. That said, a 2 horse with a small tack room is MORE than within the realm of reasonable for your Burb considering you do it right. As mentioned, a brake controller is essential, and a weight distributing hitch setup is also highly recommended - you don't see them used that often with horse trailers (because a lot of people seemingly put safety second with horse trailers, for some stupid reason) but they are well worthwhile. They force weight off the back of the truck and move it to your front axle - the result is that your truck rides level (instead of squashed down at the back with the front end pointing in the air) and it also makes your ride more stable and handling more steady and predictable - essential with a horse trailer.

If your Burb has the towing package it almost certainly already has a secondary transmission cooler - take a picture of the grille (mainly showing what's behind it) and post it here and I'll confirm and point it out to you. It may also be prewired for a brake controller, as well, making installation much easier.

Your weaknesses with the 1/2 ton burb will be the light rear axle, and the gear ratio. The 3.73 rear end is a mix between towing capacity and fuel economy so it'll be OK for your needs, but don't expect it to roar up long grades while towing on cruise control without breaking a sweat - you'd want the 4.11 gears for that. At least it doesn't have the 3.42 gearset which severely reduces towing capacity, so you're on good ground.

The 1/2 ton suspension will feel the weight though, which is why the weight distributing hitch is something you want from a safety standpoint. You must also be sure to not put much gear in the back of the truck itself otherwise you may find the rear axle overloaded which you want to avoid.

If you want a really technical breakdown of exactly how much you can tow post up the GVWR and empty weight (if you can find it) ratings from your door pillar - it's just simple math from there...but I doubt you'll find any issues at all for a 2 horse trailer.

Keep in mind when it comes to towing the North American mindset in the last 10-15 years is that you need a massive 1-Ton dually to tow anything bigger than a popup tent trailer. Having too much truck is never a bad thing, but the mindset also leads people to believe that towing with anything else is a "disaster waiting to happen", when the reality is anything but if it's done within reason and with proper equipment. Simply look overseas to Europe (where lawyers and the fear mongerers haven't convinced everyone that towing with a "regular" vehicle is somehow treading upon deaths door) to see that they are much more sensible, and they do it safely - heck, the exact same vehicles they sell here in North America with anemic tow ratings are often rated for thousands of pounds more over there.

Go look at pictures of trailers in the 50's, 60's, and 70's - you'll routinely see huge 30'+ trailers being pulled by regular old sedans and half tons - combinations that many would swear would be physically impossible by todays "OMG you need 500HP and a dually to tow that" standards.

Use your head, get the proper equipment, and you'll be FINE.


----------



## horselovinguy

PrivatePilot said:


> I tow for a living, day in and day out...for 20 years and counting now, both commercially and recreationally. I'm a commercial driver licenced to tow 140,000+ lbs, and own a 1-ton dually diesel for my personal tow vehicle, commercial aside.



I like your comment PP and the fact you put the "safety" aspect in there as well.
Properly equipped and with a good driver behind the wheel, it_ is_ doable.

I do have to ask...with the weights you write of driving... are you hauling double and triple trailers or are you working in the mines with those behemoth dump trucks...
I know few roads here {USA} are really made and constructed to carry those huge length trucks & trailers and massive loads...scares the nonsense out of many car drivers to just ride the road with them forget passing them.
I've seen many of the smaller length doubles usually at off-peak driving times but not the looooong trailers nor as triples except in the desert areas...
Just curious... and a lot of credit to you for doing it safely!!
:wink:


----------



## Darrin

PP, I'm mostly in agreement with you up until it comes to livestock. Want to pull your camp trailer, utility trailer, whatever behind that 1/2 ton then go for it. But livestock is another story. First is shifting loads but a heck of a lot more stress and strain on the tow vehicle. Second of all if things do go south then you need a lot more vehicle to safely get everything stopped then you would with a "dead" load.


----------



## verona1016

Darrin said:


> This is one of the big reasons why I don't recommend 1/2 tons for towing. They have what's called a C-clip rear end, that means if the axle breaks it can exit the vehicle. Not something you want to experience pulling your horse trailer and certainly not something your horse wants to experience. 3/4 and 1 tons have what's called a full floating axle, if it breaks you lose forward motion but your wheel stays where it belongs so you can safely stop.


But how often does the axle break on a properly loaded and maintained truck?


----------



## PrivatePilot

I'm quite familiar with dynamic loads, I've pulled a lot of liquid over my commercial career, and say what you will but liquid loads can be far more dynamic vs livestock for the most part. 

The thing is, we're talking a truck with a conservatively estimated 7000 pound tow rating, with what I would estimate to be a 5000 pound load assuming the trailer weighs 3000 pounds before horses which is about the empty curb weight of a tandem tag with tack room. 

So, add a few hundred pounds of Tack, feed, etc. and you're still somewhere in the range of 2000 (!!) pounds under the stated tow rating after adding two 1000# horses. 

My point is this – this is hardly a situation where the truck is going to be on the bleeding edge of it's capabilities. Quite to the contrary actually there's plenty of buffer capability to allow for the dynamic load of livestock. 



verona1016 said:


> But how often does the axle break on a properly loaded and maintained truck?


Exactly – I think most people would be surprised at how easy it is to overload and axle on many vehicles on the road today, but you don't see them regularly breaking, folding up, blowing apart, or anything else. Heck, your average four-door car with three or four large adults in it may be overloaded on all four wheels, but they don't just blow off or fall apart. 

So once again, a sizable truck like the suburban which is not going to be easily tossed around by a trailer to begin with, coupled with the fact that it's going to still be several thousand pounds under its tow rating, furthered by the utilization of a proper weight distributing hitch, I fail to see where the problem is here. It's likely to be quite a great towing set up for that matter – the long wheelbase of the suburban is a excellent towing platform. 

People just need to get out of the mindset that 1/2 tons are not suitable for towing - it's all in the numbers!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## karliejaye

FWIW, I used to use a Ford Explorer with V8 engine (actually had the Mustang engine in it...vroom vroom!). We have an all aluminum 2 horse straight load trailer and would only haul 1 horse in it. Usually short hauls (2-3 hours) but we did take it 12 hours once and then I used it to move across the state. 
Was it ideal, heck no! It worked and we had brake controllers on it and sway bars, but long story short, that poor Explorer eventually met it's end due to a blown radiator (luckily not while hauling).


----------



## PrivatePilot

Engine size isn't the be all end all of towing suitability. If horsepower meant everything a Viper or a Corvette would be considered a great towing vehicle for a horse trailer...but all know they aren't.

Comparing an Explorer to a Suburban isn't really a fair comparison either, especially depending on the years - the Suburban maintains it's true "truck" heritage by being body on frame - the Explorer is now built unibody and has lost much of it's towing suitability. The Explorer has a considerably shorter wheelbase (and overall length), weighs less, is narrower, and generally far less beefy vs the Suburban, even going back to the previous generation models. All of that matters significantly - a long heavy vehicle will tow a trailer far better than a shorter and lighter vehicle - simple "tail wagging the dog" physics.

If this was a 4 horse we were talking about it would be different - the margins would be slim at best, probably beyond the safe bleeding-edge when you add in the fact it's livestock being hauled, not a traditional load. And if this was a truck vs a Suburban and we were talking a gooseneck, I'd say absolultely not either as a GN/5th can quickly overload the rear axle of most 1500 series trucks.

But we're not. We're talking a massive, capable, well powered full size SUV towing a short trailer WELL below it's ratings.

OP, your dad is right and the naysayers are way off base with the "You need a diesel dually to tow horses" mindset. Get the trailer, get the proper equipment, and go enjoy yourself - I'd take that setup across the country in a heartbeat without a second thought. If you need something on paper to convince the naysayers, like I said, post a photo of the GVWR sticker on the truck and the model of the trailer you are looking for and I'll do the math down to the pound for you. They'll soon see that this is hardly an unsafe setup - anything but actually.


----------



## karliejaye

I should clarify, I was in NO WAY trying to compare the Explorer to the Suburban. I think the Explorer was less suited to pull than the Suburban, yet it did it. Ours was a 98 I think. 
I have seen quite a few Expeditions and Suburbans hauling trailers before, and a co-worker of mine uses one regularly after a lot of research.


----------



## jimmyp

It is not really about whether or not your 'burb will pull the trailer, but moreso, whether it, will safely stop your trailer. A good set of trailer brakes, and a brake controller, and a good trans cooler will be high on you list of need to do stuff. I would next address your shocks, and your tires, both will be stressed if they are not up to the challenge and you get on a rough stretch of road or a cross wind. 

We have used my wifes 4runner to pull our 16ft stock trailer with a couple of horses in it. Do i recomend it? No..... Did it do it? yes. 

Your suburban will do ANYTHING a half ton truck will do, if you are willing to spend a couple bucks on a few minor upgrades there is absolutely no reason you cant drag around a 2-3horse bumper pull to your hearts content.


----------



## jimmyp

I will also say as a person who has likely broken more axles than most here (drag cars, rock crawlers, and pulling trucks) MOST of the time when you see a break like that it is the result of too much traction and rotational force which will twist an axle off right inside the splines. Or, it is the result of some overwhelming shock. 

Also I am ALMOST certain that that Isuzu has a retainer plate at the outer bearing much like a ford 9" rather than a C Clip

Generally speaking the more common problem associated with over loading an axle will be premature bearing wear, and breaking down the sidewalls of the tires.

Jim


----------



## PrivatePilot

Although I agree bigger brakes that typically come with three-quarter and 1 ton sized trucks certainly help with stopping, one also needs to keep in mind that trailer brakes are designed to stop the actual loaded weight of the trailer itself, thereby leaving little extra wait for the tow vehicle itself to handle beyond its normal unloaded weight. 

Now obviously if you don't hook up the trailer brakes, or they are not set up properly, a great deal of weight will be left to the tow vehicle to stop, however that's the fault of the owner, not the truck or trailer. 

A small truck and trailer combination that is within it's safe tow ratings, with a trailer with adequate and properly set up and functioning brakes of its own should stop at least as well as the truck would by itself. If the trailer is noticeable pushing the tow vehicle, the brakes on the trailer are not providing adequate stopping power either due to maladjustment, or an improperly set up trailer brake controller. 

This is where it gets tricky with half ton trucks, as I mentioned earlier they end up being very restricted for gooseneck or fifth wheel style trailers simply because they can't handle the dead load on the rear axle, however when it comes to tag style trailers their capabilities can be surprisingly high. This is where many people run with the misnomer that half tons aren't suitable for towing in the horse world.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


----------



## Darrin

Never said you can't tow with a 1/2 ton but when it comes to safety of livestock I just don't recommend it and that's what the OP wants, a recommendation. The thing about towing is you can get away with all sorts of things until something happens. When the feces hits the fan you're better off in a 3/4 or 1 ton vehicle when it comes to safely getting out of whatever situation arises. Safety is the OP's main concern.


----------



## PrivatePilot

Darrin said:


> Never said you can't tow with a 1/2 ton but when it comes to safety of livestock I just don't recommend it


Gotta stand my ground on this, so we'll have to agree to disagree. :wink:

The OP's setup will be 2000#'ish under the rated tow capabilities of the truck, meaning it's comfortably well within what GM themselves considered a safe setup.


----------



## Altalefty

Lots of good information mentioned so far. I'll just mentioned a couple things not touched on yet. One thing that might help in your research is taking your vin number off the suburban in to the dealer, and they can print you off a sheet that tells all the options that come on your vehicle. When figuring out safety one does have to use pen and pencil to figure out the weights to know where you are. A number of folks around here add airbags to the back to help level the tow vehicle and firm up ride. Air bags don't change the weights you are allowed to carry. There are scales at dumps, feed places, gravel pits and commercial scales that you can use to help determine where you are at with regards to vehicle and axel weights. A suggestion I have is when it comes time for new breaks on whatever tow vehicle you are using, that you upgrade to premium pads.


----------



## tim62988

your suburban will be fine, make sure your trailer brakes are good and you have the emergency trailer brake set up then if things go south you're better off.

I think private-pilot has a lot of good information to follow

I'm not sure who mentioned anti-sway bars but I would suggest them as they don't hurt to have as extra insurance for stability

another thing I didn't see glancing through a lot of these, pay attention to the hitch height when loaded.

also if you're looking at a used trailer take it for a test drive, see how it handles behind your suburban


----------



## mnevans

I have to agree with this advice: "One thing that might help in your research is taking your vin number off the suburban in to the dealer, and they can print you off a sheet that tells all the options that come on your vehicle." by Altaleft. 

Do your research, everyone's vehicle is in its own condition and if something goes wrong then it is your own fault for following advice by other people who haven't even seen the condition of your vehicle. I'm not trying in any way to be rude to you or other people here. You can always take it in and have a mechanic or a dealer tell you no your vehicle can or can't pull it. I would recommend going first to a trailer dealer instead of a car dealer because the car dealer will want to probably say no and you need to buy something else. Get a tow package and great brakes for the trailer. Everyone's opinion is different and depending on where you go if you are not up to the state's laws and regulations then you could be unsafe on the road and just waiting for a ticket to happen. I have always read that to safely (for you/horses/and vehicle) is to get a 3/4 ton with a tow package, if you will be hauling a 2 horse trailer. Good luck!


----------



## bkylem

No offense to anyone, but it certainly seems that the. "Pilot" is easily the most educated and experienced on the subject. You can read all you like, but it is hard to argue with an individual's detailed knowledge on the issue.

The beauty of the Forum.


----------



## PrivatePilot

tim62988 said:


> I'm not sure who mentioned anti-sway bars but I would suggest them as they don't hurt to have as extra insurance for stability


A lot of people get weight distribution bars and sway controls mixed up. They are two different beasts:

Weight distribution bars:










Sway control:










There are weight distributing hitches that mix the two (add sway control as well as weight distribution) but they're arguably overkill for a horse trailer as the weight distribution of a horse trailer doesn't lend them to having sway problems to begin with the way a travel trailer can. Inadequate tongue weight is the biggest reason for trailer sway, but it's almost impossible to load a horse trailer heavy on it's tail as can happen with a travel trailer when people load gear incorrectly. 

A weight distribution hitch is far more important than a sway controller for a horse trailer, especially if being pulled with a tow vehicle with a light capacity rear axle...such as a half ton. As a side effect to proper weight distribution the vehicle combination becomes more stable (rear tow vehicle wheels not squashed and squishy, for example) so the setup becomes inherently more stable as a simple result of that alone.



mnevans said:


> I have to agree with this advice: "One thing that might help in your research is taking your vin number off the suburban in to the dealer, and they can print you off a sheet that tells all the options that come on your vehicle." by Altaleft.


It won't tell you much beyond what the OP has already told us other than about options that are not relevant to towing. The OP mentioned it has the tow package (which includes a tranny cooler amongst other things) and that the rear gearing is 3.73 which is also an important consideration with towing..but we already know those facts. The same option codes that a VIN search would result can be found on any vehicle by looking at the RPO sticker usually located in the glovebox:










All those codes indicate options and specifications. If you decode them it'll tell you everything about your vehicles options and outfitting from the factory with no need to run the VIN.


----------



## Darrin

I still disagree with using a 1/2 ton and always will but darn good post.


----------



## PrivatePilot

Darrin said:


> I still disagree with using a 1/2 ton and always will but darn good post.


On what basis? If the vehicle is of adequate capability, weight, and wheelbase to tow a trailer safely within it's ratings with a total absence or any negative factors such as sway or inadequate braking ability, the fact it's "only" a half ton under the skin is irrelevant.

I know it's a difference of opinion, but it's just not based on the facts, that's all - it's based on the aforementioned "You need a 1 ton dually to pull a pop up tent trailer" mindset. "Adequate" can be entirely safe and suitable... "Overkill" isn't necessarilly worse, but arguably is unnecessary. :wink:

I've seen a lot of people discouraged from joining the RV scene over the years because they go look at a trailer they like and then go online and hear the same story at places like RV.net... "You can't pull that with your vehicle! You need to trade that in right away on a big burly truck otherwise you're putting your family at a huge risk driving a deathtrap!". 

Meanwhile, if they looked at the numbers, their current vehicle would be just fine. They walk away instead because they can't afford the payment on not only a new trailer, but a new tow vehicle they are told they "need" to tow it as well, when in reality...they didn't.


----------



## spirit1215

I think for short hauls, it will be fine. I'm in the same boat as you Idon't know much on trailers and vehicles that haul them lol But my mom has a mercury mariner that everyone says can't haul one horse for a 30 minute ride down the road. But every dealer and professional has been fine with it and the trips we've taken haven't been problematic. 
I have heard that suburbans are better than my SUV and if mine can haul one horse, I would think yours would be fine for one if not two also
Sorry if I'm just repeating stuff


----------



## Viranh

I also haul with an SUV for short trips and have no trouble with 1 or 2 horses. I do find it unpleasant over 55 mph or longer than an hour or so, but that is more my own insecurity than a problem with the vehicle. Our vehicles have similar options and capacity. As long as you follow the great advice about brake controllers and weight distribution and take it slow while you're getting used to your rig, I think you'll be fine. You can get a bigger truck when you start making more long hauls.


----------



## Darrin

PrivatePilot said:


> On what basis? If the vehicle is of adequate capability, weight, and wheelbase to tow a trailer safely within it's ratings with a total absence or any negative factors such as sway or inadequate braking ability, the fact it's "only" a half ton under the skin is irrelevant.
> 
> I know it's a difference of opinion, but it's just not based on the facts, that's all - it's based on the aforementioned "You need a 1 ton dually to pull a pop up tent trailer" mindset. "Adequate" can be entirely safe and suitable... "Overkill" isn't necessarilly worse, but arguably is unnecessary. :wink:
> 
> I've seen a lot of people discouraged from joining the RV scene over the years because they go look at a trailer they like and then go online and hear the same story at places like RV.net... "You can't pull that with your vehicle! You need to trade that in right away on a big burly truck otherwise you're putting your family at a huge risk driving a deathtrap!".
> 
> Meanwhile, if they looked at the numbers, their current vehicle would be just fine. They walk away instead because they can't afford the payment on not only a new trailer, but a new tow vehicle they are told they "need" to tow it as well, when in reality...they didn't.


Go back and read my post again and you'll see I'm not a 1 ton diesel dually required type. I'm against 1/2 tons because when it comes to safety I think you're pushing the envelope towing horses. If you want to tow your 25 ft travel trailer then go for it. FYI, I know quite a few people who have fried their rear end, fried transmissions, boiled brakes, broken suspension parts, fried motors (older non computer controlled), blown tires, broken drive line and bent axles all using 1/2 tons that were towing within their ratings. For heavier rigs I've seen boiled brakes, fried transmission and one who burnt a hole in a piston on a 429 cobra jet set up to race but dropped in a pickup to tow with. 

Flat out 3/4 and 1 ton pickups were built as work trucks which means they are built with heavier, longer lasting components. 1/2 tons fall into fuel standard laws and are built lighter to meet those standards. Lighter parts mean they are more likely to fail when repeatedly stressed.

Also when things go south I want to protect my horses as much as possible, for me that means a truck built sturdy. Not one that's built to get fuel mileage, grocery runs, taking the kids to play soccer and oh yeah, tow.


----------



## Viranh

I can't speak for the Suburban, but I'd argue my Land Rover is better built than some "work" trucks today. But then, mine was not built with fuel economy and grocery runs in mind.


----------



## horselovinguy

*This thread is from 3 1/2 years ago....

The information is still good for reference but today make sure as always your ratios are what you need to safely tow anything.
Newer trucks are far different in those towing numbers...just remember all those numbers are done with static weight, in other words dead weight like a boat or camper.
NO HORSES ARE EVER USED TO MY KNOWLEDGE, which would be live cargo.

Running a VIN number of any vehicle will tell you the details from the manufacturing plant, no guesses and no lies as that VIN tells all.

*_Happy SAFE travels and trailering.
:runninghorse2:....
_


----------



## SilverMaple

I have pulled 2-horse trailers with a tack room, or a 4-horse stock trailer (no tack) for years with 4WD Suburbans or Yukon XL's with no issues. You don't want any more than two horses in it even if there's room for more, and you do need a transmission cooler, tow package, electric brakes, and a heavy duty hitch but it does fine unless you're hauling on mountain roads as long as you use common sense. It's the same truck as the 1/2 ton full-size pickup. I did have a shorter Yukon for many years, and it got the job done, but the longer wheelbase makes a huge difference in handling and stability, so don't go shorter than the Yukon XL or Suburban. The regular Yukon/Tahoe is too short. Ideally, a 3/4 ton or larger truck is needed, but plenty of people pull a 2-horse trailer with a good half-ton suburban or pickup and do just fine. 

My current tow vehicle is a 2003 Yukon XL with all the bells and whistles. It has 200,000 miles on it and aside from basic maintenance and a fuel pump, has had no issues with trailers of all descriptions as long as you do your homework, drive carefully, make sure you can STOP if needed, and don't overload it.

Yes, of course, a 3/4 ton or 1-ton is ideal but if you're like me and your tow vehicle is also your everyday driving vehicle, and your hauling consists of a half-dozen short trips a year to a trail ride or the vet clinic, it's hard to justify the initial expense and gas costs of that bigger truck when 99% of its miles aren't towing.


----------

