# teaching a horse to stand while tied



## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

hottotrot said:


> Heyy everyone
> 
> So i started leasing this horse who has bad ground manners  While I was out at the farm this past sunday, my horse wouldnt stand still while I was grooming him, and he got a little antsy and threw him head back and his halter broke! Luckly there was an experienced horse woman there to save the day lol. And as you can tell this is a huge problem, so I was wondering if anyone could give me some tips or advice to help me teach my horse to stand while tied. It would be very appreciated  thanks soo much


How about some background? How old is the horse? Does he have any training? How is he with leading? backing up? generally giving to pressure?

Right off the bat though, he has now learned that he can get loose and you need to stop that immediately. I use a neck strap and halter and tie to a very secure hitching post. 

My spooky mare has twice spooked while tied since I moved to this method. The first time, after getting over the initial spook, she was major ****ed and just wanted to "win" against being tied. She had previously learned she could get free if she pulled enough (broke the barn and dragged part of it over to the neighbours). I made her stay tied for an hour. She tested it a few more times, but the last 20 minutes she was just plain bored.

The second time was just this past weekend. The mean green stool apparently turned into an enemy and she pulled back. And I mean she PULLED! Practically sat right down -- pulled her butt right under herself. But my neckstrap, halter and tie were designed to hold and hold they did. I stood aside and told firmly but calmy to "STAND". You could actually see her clue in and figure out that nothing was going to improve until she listened to me. It was amazing to see. The rest of the time she was tied after that, she was not happy, but she didn't make any effort whatsoever to pull. She's not tiny either -- 17.3h.

I will never tie her any other way, EVER. Thanks to a former forum member for this information.

Do not tie your horse with anything that will break or release. Halters, ropes, and whatever the rope is tied to must all be strong enough to withstand a minimum of 2500 lbs pull. If you use the neck strap and halter properly your horse will not get hurt, but if he learns to break and run, either he will or someone else will.


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## kevinshorses (Aug 15, 2009)

I agree with Northern Mama. You may also want to try using hobbles to restrict movement.


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## mls (Nov 28, 2006)

kevinshorses said:


> I agree with Northern Mama. You may also want to try using hobbles to restrict movement.


Ah - not the OP. Hobbles are a bit above her level of knowledge, plus it's not her horse.


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## kevinshorses (Aug 15, 2009)

It's not rocket science. If she can catch and saddle her own horse then she can teach on to stand in hobbles. I had never used hobbles until the first time.


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## Citrus (Feb 26, 2010)

I would simply move the horse back everytime it fully steps out of place.... don't do it when it thinks about it or starts to move, other wise the horse will be confused.

If it moves forward, move it back and praise.....


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## faye (Oct 13, 2010)

NorthernMama said:


> Do not tie your horse with anything that will break or release. Halters, ropes, and whatever the rope is tied to must all be strong enough to withstand a minimum of 2500 lbs pull. If you use the neck strap and halter properly your horse will not get hurt, but if he learns to break and run, either he will or someone else will.


I've seen a horse break its neck because what he was tied to didnt give. Horiffic experiance and sorry but The advice you have given is just plain dangerous. A panicing horse needs to be able to get free. 

I will never ever tie a horse to anything that will not give.


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## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

faye said:


> I've seen a horse break its neck because what he was tied to didnt give. Horiffic experiance and sorry but The advice you have given is just plain dangerous. A panicing horse needs to be able to get free.
> 
> I will never ever tie a horse to anything that will not give.


Only if not properly tied. A neck strap must be used in conjunction with a halter to keep the pull straight. I wish I'd been able to take a video of what happened this past weekend. You'd believe me then.

And, honestly, if worst came to worst, I'd rather the horse died than me, or some other bystander. What if the horse ran out on the road and a family in a Sunfire was going by...


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## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

kevinshorses said:


> I had never used hobbles until the first time.


Now there's a fact we often forget!


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## faye (Oct 13, 2010)

NorthernMama said:


> And, honestly, if worst came to worst, I'd rather the horse died than me, or some other bystander. What if the horse ran out on the road and a family in a Sunfire was going by...


If you tied a horse in a safe place then it wouldnt be able to get out onto the road. Thats what gates and fences are for, to prevent horses getting to places where they could do themselves or others damage.

Our yard is enclosed by walls, fences an gates. If a horse gets loose then the only place it can go is into my garden, where it is perfectly safe.

At a show I no longer tie to the side of the lorry, I always get the horse ready in the lorry.


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## kevinshorses (Aug 15, 2009)

faye said:


> I've seen a horse break its neck because what he was tied to didnt give. Horiffic experiance and sorry but The advice you have given is just plain dangerous. A panicing horse needs to be able to get free.
> 
> I will never ever tie a horse to anything that will not give.


So you're saying that a panicking horse running loose is less of a hazard? I think you should re-evaluate what you are saying.


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## wyominggrandma (Nov 4, 2009)

I have seen a panicked horse get in big trouble because it was tied to a metal gate. I it pulled back, broke the gate(it was not put up that strongly) and the gate came at the horse, the horse took off with the gate bouncing/dragging behind it. Ended up with the horses leg through the bars and being broken, horse had to be destroyed.... Would rather see a horse correctly tied pulling back and not getting loose, then pulling back and taking himself and whatever he is tied to for a run.


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## faye (Oct 13, 2010)

kevinshorses said:


> So you're saying that a panicking horse running loose is less of a hazard? I think you should re-evaluate what you are saying.


Yes a panicing horse running loose in a properly secured area is less of a hazard. Sorry but if you own horses you need to secure the place where they are kept and this includes gates and fences that facilitate you keeping control of a panicing horse.



wyominggrandma said:


> I have seen a panicked horse get in big trouble because it was tied to a metal gate. I it pulled back, broke the gate(it was not put up that strongly) and the gate came at the horse, the horse took off with the gate bouncing/dragging behind it. Ended up with the horses leg through the bars and being broken, horse had to be destroyed.... Would rather see a horse correctly tied pulling back and not getting loose, then pulling back and taking himself and whatever he is tied to for a run.


What Idiot tied it to the gate in the first place?

Going by the BHS standard you should NEVER tie a horse to a gate and you should never tie a horse to something that will not break if the horse panics. Then again the BHS assumes that you are smart enough to have a fully secure yard. They reccomend and the vast majority of horse owners over here use bailer twine, you tie the bailer twine to the rail or the tie ring and then tie the lead rope to the bailer twine.
The bailer twine will snap and the horse will be loose but it wont take what ever it is tied to with it.
It may be BHS standard but I also thought It was common sense, certainly it is one of the first things you are taught over here when learning to care for horses.

On my yard, if they get loose they can wander round the yard, go into the garden or towards the field gate. Normaly they stop at the first horse or stick thier head down and graze in the garden.

On most of the yards I have ever ridden on, the horses if they got loose were restricted to the yard or funneled towards the fields.


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## kevinshorses (Aug 15, 2009)

Some places in the world horses are actually used for work. All year long I have trailered horses to a trailhead or pasture and unloaded and saddled them to move cattle. Often times these places are next to a busy highway and rarely are the horses well-broke. The only thing that keeps them safe is the fact that when I tie them they stay. If a horse was to get away from me they could cause a very bad accident resulting in the death of a person. I value human life above that of even my very favorite horse. I understand that your experience is limited due to your location but don't think that everyone uses horses as you do. Also don't hink that a horse running loose in a well fenced yard is not a hazard to those people contained within those fences.


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

I agree with tying to something and with a halter/lead that won't break. That is why I love rope halters with tied on leads because there are no buckles or snaps to break. A horse that learns from day 1 that being tied means no getting loose no matter how much you fight will always end up a better tyer in the end. My mustang Dobe is a perfect example. The first time he was tied, he ended up upside down and trapped. I left him there for a few minutes before cutting the rope so that he could get up then he got tied right back up. Since then, he won't fight because he knows he can't win. No offense Faye, but you might be comfortable with the ability to just chase your horse through the garden when he breaks free and saddling/preparing him inside the trailer. That, to me, is unacceptable. I am comortable with the knowledge that I can tie my horse to the side of the trailer and do what has to be done and he will stand quietly or I can drape a bridle rein over a fence and leave him there for hours. 

It may just be that I use my horses for actual work and there are often times when I can't keep them perfectly contained inside a fence away from all dangers, but I don't understand why so many people are so willing to accept a horse that will break free whenever it chooses. One of the main reasons why I carry a pocket knife is so that I can decide when the horse is _truly _in danger and it would be more prudent for him to be loose rather than him deciding that a plastic bag 30 feet away is going to eat him and he must be turned loose _now_.


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## faye (Oct 13, 2010)

ah but the people contained within those fences is limited and they should know what to do with a loose horse, even if it is just to get out of the way.

Far safer to saddle up in the lorry, you've less chance of being hit by traffic, less chance of a horse being spooked by traffic and far greater control of the situation. Youve also got more control as they come off the lorry as they are in a bridle not a head collar, and you dont have that moment when you have to take the halter off to put the bridle on.

This article pretty much explains how I teach mine to tie up, I'm a bit less flowery about it but this is essentialy how I do it.
Teach your horse toTie by Juli Realy
It is not a million miles away from what you do but what it does teach the horse is to yield to pressure, WITHOUT the risk of the horse breaking it's neck.

Stan could be trusted to the point that I didnt even have to tie him. Regularly at shows I just left him standing beside the lorry, reins over his neck, not tied up. He would stand there untill I came back for him. He was safe there because I put him there and he would stay there even when all hell let loose on the show field.

Yes I am confident that if they got loose I could catch him on the yard again, but I have never needed to do this. my bailer twine at home is old, rotten and frayed, it has seen too many winters outside, When it drops off due to the weight of the lead rope (record is just over 3 years!) they get replaced but otherwise I have never had need to.

I'm also very very aware that one knock, bump or scar on my horses will reduce thier value by thousands of ££. they are show horses, a scar or a splint could end thier competative career.


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## Bandera (Jul 31, 2010)

OMG! Faye i completely agree with 100% everything u are saying right now. My horse use to be a major puller and she would snap the halters because i used SAFETY halters. I went through 2 halters and with proper training and repetition she now follows me around, stops, backs up (with out halter), ground ties, and perfect ground manners. I dont think you could have gotten much worse then my horse actually. SHe is young, big, and not easy to train but i did it. NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER EVER tie your horse to something that is not full stable, a unhooked trailer or with out something that can break i.e. SAFETY HALTERS, twine, and leather halters. i dont care how may people complain about there horse taking off it all comes down to training, if my horse can do it so can yours. It upsets me very much that people dont realize how much impact being stuck to something to do on a horses mind. Horses can break there necks, do serious damage to there brains, crowns, spine, and legs when they pull and something doesnt release, its just not safe.


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

To each their own. You can keep your horses that you have to make sure that all the gates are closed and walk and catch them every time they break your halter and run away. I'll keep my horses that stand tied quietly all day regardless of what's going on around them.


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## mom2pride (May 5, 2009)

Good grief I would NEVER EVER saddle a horse in a trailer...THAT is way more dangerous than a horse sitting on it's butt, or possibly getting free at an arena, or other place...sorry...if a horse wigs out in a trailer, where do you expect to go??? I mean really? Honest question...there is NO where for you to go, and you or the horse could be seriously injured, and more than likely you would be the one more hurt than said horse. I don't care how big the trailer, there is way too little space in there if a horse gets panicked. 

OP...There have been some good suggestions already given. You could go with a neck strap (I prefer inner tubes for the neck part, and tie a lead onto that, that way there is some give)...

You could get a Tie Ring, like the one's Clinton Anderson endorses...these are designed to give the horse some slack as it pulls back; when the horse stops, you simply lead him back foward, and draw the lead back through the ring. There are various 'taughtnesses' to the tie ring too, so that if a horse pulls it needs to put more force to get slack. 

I would definitely do alot of ground work with this horse; if he is tired, or atleast "thinking" when you go to tie him, he won't be so reactive. 

Another thing I like to do, and do with every horse I train, is teach it to ground tie. When he understands ground tying solidly, then you can start looping the lead over the rail, and eventually tie him 'solid'...the advantage to teaching a horse to ground tie, is that when he goes to move, you can really make him move...and really MAKE him move...teach him that standing still when you ask, is the easy thing to do.


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## VelvetsAB (Aug 11, 2010)

_We use halters and neck straps to excersize our horses (on a specially built gate that goes on the back of the truck). Properly tied, colts/fillies who are just learning can pull for all they are worth and nothing happens to them. They just tire themselves out. The learn to go with the gate and truck pretty quick. _

_Remember that not everyone on this forum has a yard like you do faye. Lots of people have miles of open land that if a horse got loose, they could possibly be gone. Teaching a horse to stand and stand still when asked is a vital part of their ground training. _

_IMO, I think tacking a horse up in a trailer/lorry is dangerous as you could possibly have nowhere to move if something happens. You could end up against a wall and kicked easily. I would much rather be able to tie my horse to the outside and know that I will be safe. (mom2pride, we posted at the same time)_


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## EasyintheSaddle (Aug 23, 2010)

My grandpa was an old cowboy and had the BEST fix for this! I will have to try to look up the knot so I can tell you...

First tie them to something they cannot pull loose, or a halter that will break. Take a lunge line, rope, etc, and attach it to the halter and then over whatever you are tying them to. DONT tie it or wrap it around your hitching post. Take it and wrap it around your horse, around the barrel, where a girth would go. Then you tie this knot (I will seriously find it and edit this!) When they pull back, they squeeze the crap out of themselves, and when they step forward it releases. They teach themselves! Its amazing! 

Also, they only learn to stand by standing. My horses have stand camp when young, where they are expected to stand quietly until I say so. If their feet are moving they do not get put away!! And they dont just stand where they get tacked up, I tie to posts in arena, the trailer (if its hooked up), a nice tree in the pasture, whereever I feel like. They learn to stand whereever I stick em!!


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

Easy, I think this is kinda similar to what you are talking about.









Not exactly but this is the only picture I could find .

ETA: I like to tie my greenies up after I finish working with them for the day. They are tired and not terribly interested in doing much except standing there. Do that for an hour or 2 every day for a week and they learn to stand quietly too.


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## EasyintheSaddle (Aug 23, 2010)

I found the knot!! 

It wouldn't let me edit my original post. Its called the bowline knot - and I found videos on youtube!

smrobs- Thats exactly what I mean! My grandpa did it over the bar, but I like the look of through the halter ring better. 

I have never actually had to use this method - my stand camp usually does the trick. I have seen tons of my grandpa's two year olds do this though. He used to tie grocery bags to their halters to scare them and make them pull, so they wore themselves out (keep in mind, old school cowboy!) I figure teach right the first time and from the beginning and you can avoid all the drama. But if I had one that was a problem, you better believe I would be breaking out the bowline knot!


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

The bowline is the exact knot that I use every time I tie. I love that no matter how hard they sit back on it, you can still get it untied with very little effort.


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## ImagineThat (Sep 18, 2010)

I agree with everyone who is saying the horse needs to learn to stand tied no matter what... and to use halter/leads that won't break and all....

BUT, since this is a leased horse and I have seen horses get hurt when they aren't the smartest thing. I would lean towards trying out the Blocker Tie Ring. I love mine and use it with all the babies and horses in training. I usually go right for the 2nd setting where you loop it a second time around the bar part so it's harder to pull through but still will give a little.
I always use a rope halter and an extra long lead... about 15 feet. And I will usually tie the very end of the lead rope (make a knot), so that if they are having a huge fit it won't pull all the way through.
I use it to teach them to tie, to work on desensitizing, and to learn patience and stand for long periods.
I just feel it may be a better route since the horse is leased, its very unlikely to get hurt on the tie ring.


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## hottotrot (Jul 29, 2010)

Thanks so much to everyone who replied to this thread! I think ill try the bowline knot it seems like an effective method, or ill try the Blocker Tie Ring, that also seems very affective. Thanks so much again to everyone


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

I hope it works for you.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

I don't understand the point of the tie-blocker ring. It's a gadget to me. You still need to decide to either TIE your horse or let him get free. You don't need pretty chrome with a kool flippy-thing on it. And you still have to decide if you are going to use just a halter or a halter & neck strap. Make the important decision first and then if you like the cool gadget and want to mount one on every possible place in the yard to tie your horse, go for it.


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## ImagineThat (Sep 18, 2010)

NorthernMama said:


> I don't understand the point of the tie-blocker ring. It's a gadget to me. You still need to decide to either TIE your horse or let him get free. You don't need pretty chrome with a kool flippy-thing on it. And you still have to decide if you are going to use just a halter or a halter & neck strap. Make the important decision first and then if you like the cool gadget and want to mount one on every possible place in the yard to tie your horse, go for it.


I don't consider it a gadget, like I would consider a head setter one.... I find it very useful. They don't "get free" from the tie ring. It allows them to move their feet a little so they don't feel so trapped, and still learn to tie. And there are different settings so if your horse pulls back hard, you can match that so he doesn't pull free. You can't tie all horses to tree and let them fight it out.... some will break their neck before they give up. I have had very good luck with the tie ring. 
I really like it for babies, so they don't get hurt... and I use it on all client horses too, for desensitizing and all that. I don't want to get a horse hurt that isn't mine. Once they learn about tying, I will cross tie and single tie to my eye hook on the big tree also.


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## AnnieB538 (Oct 22, 2010)

Try using a bungie line to tie him up. When he pulls back, it will go with him and he will be confused as to why it doesnt break, but goes with him. Eventually he will realise that he cannot break the bungie line, because it stretches when he pulls on it, and you will be able to replace it with a normal lead rope. Ive had many like this through my hands, and the bungie line trick has always worked.


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## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

I wouldn't do the bungee line -- on another thread I read where one broke. Can you imagine that snapping back at the horse or a bystander? They're not supposed to break, of course, but they do wear and they can be defective. I know I have had it happen with the regular bungee cords (the rubber ones); brand new out of the box and *snap*. Not fun. One missed my eye by about an inch this summer.


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## Tralauney (Oct 9, 2010)

Maybe you should try some ground tying excercises first if the issue is standing still while being tied. you'll have to dedicate some time to it but if your seeking the horse to be calm and still while grooming I have found this most helpful. I usually start my horses with this and then when it comes time to tie them I just have to loop the lead over my tying post and they are calm and quiet. This has worked for me and mine, may be worth a try. If the issue is pulling back...thats another discussion all together.


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## wild_spot (Jan 30, 2008)

> I don't understand the point of the tie-blocker ring. It's a gadget to me. You still need to decide to either TIE your horse or let him get free.


I disagree. I usually tie solid, and it works, however I tried it with latte and it did not work - She pulls because she is claustraphobic, and not getting free didn't change that mindset.

The blocker tie ring means that on the rare occasion she does pull, she gets a little slack, which alleviates her fear and she stops and relaxes. She doesn't get free.


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## AlexS (Aug 9, 2010)

I believe that there are different techniques that work for different people and horses. My old barn owner would use 3 halters and lead ropes and tie the horse to a tree with its face inches from the tree and then let the horse fight it out, until it stopped fighting, the horse would end up cut up and hurt. I underststand why he did this as the horse was hurting itself, but at the same time I would not chose to do this. 

Based on the advise given here, I am going to sound like a complete communist, but I would tie the horse while feeding, and get it used to it that way, and then tie it for longer and longer each time it eats, I would start with tying during feeding, then build to keeping it tied after feeding, and then onto tying before feeding. Sure it takes longer to do this training, but I think it is kinder to the horse and has less risks. And no I am not a natural horsemanship follower, and wouldn happily whack the snot out of my horse for any aggressive behavior, I just don't think it is necessary to go balls out all the time.


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

Just a quick aside here, I don't know where anyone got the idea that Natural HOrsemanship followers will not "whack the snot" out of a horse that needs a real , immediate and strong correction for dangerously aggresive behaviour (which I assume woudl be the time when you WOULD do such). All NH folks are NOT namby pamby.

As for tying a horse. another person spoke of the problem being that the horse will panic because they feel claustrophobic and they leave their mind and freak out. IF the horse learns that there is a release (and they can give it to themselves by "bouncing" off the taut line) then they won't go into full panic mode. I can see how those tie rings might be good. I have never had to deal with this issue, so I am learning a lot from you guys.


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## AlexS (Aug 9, 2010)

tinyliny said:


> Just a quick aside here, I don't know where anyone got the idea that Natural HOrsemanship followers will not "whack the snot" out of a horse that needs a real , immediate and strong correction for dangerously aggresive behaviour (which I assume woudl be the time when you WOULD do such). All NH folks are NOT namby pamby.


That was just my personal opinion, I was not trying to speak for a large group. I don't know too much about NHmanship, but I was much more liberal in my approach to dealing with this horse than others had been. I might have used a bad example, but I meant that I am not the type to cuddle my horse to death and love it when it is doing wrong. Sorry if I offended any NH peps.


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## mom2pride (May 5, 2009)

AlexS said:


> And no I am not a natural horsemanship follower, and wouldn happily whack the snot out of my horse for any aggressive behavior, I just don't think it is necessary to go balls out all the time.


WHO in the world said to do that in this post? I mean really, is it anywhere? NH or not...


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## AlexS (Aug 9, 2010)

No one did I meant that my comment was much on the cuddle them side than the other comments that were posted here.

Edit - I would take a softer option to this training issue by tying the horse while feeding, while a lot of the advise offered was to tie the horse to an unmoveable thing or hoble it. I was just trying to say that I would take a softer option but am not the sort to cuddle and love my horse through its issues. Sorry that I brought NHship into it, that was a mistake.


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## mom2pride (May 5, 2009)

I've had horses spook when the clip hits the feeder...so that may not be very fool proof either, especially with a confirmed puller; it won't take much for the horse to react, simply because he's not been taught NOT to react. 

I'd still go for the tie ring, or ground tie, then gradually retrain how to tie from ground tying.


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## wild_spot (Jan 30, 2008)

Feeding while tying is just stealing moments. The horse will still eventually have to learn how to stand tied when bored or spooked - You can't be feeding it the whole time you tie it.

It is far better to confront the issue and deal with it the appropriate way for the horses motivation - And yes, solid tying IS the best method for some horses - And some horse, like my mare, need the tie ring or something that gives slack, some need to learn again how to give to pressure, so on and so forth. No ONE way works for every horse, but EVERY horse should be evaluated on their own motivations and taught to tie or re-taught accordingly.


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## AlexS (Aug 9, 2010)

And this is the benefit of the internet, everyone can state their case and take from it what they want. Hopefully somewhere in that process the OP will get some advise that makes sense to them. 

My previous mare would rear in crossties and become extremely dangerous any time she was tied, She came to me like this, and my fault for not seeing her tied before I bought her. So I fed her and then tied her in her stall while eating, at first I would untie her as soon as she was done, and then I gradually increased the amount of time I left her tied for after eating. Then I moved her to cross ties, and no I did not feed her in the cross ties. I let her be for a min or two, then slowly increased the time. She leant and it worked for me.


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## AnnieB538 (Oct 22, 2010)

Of course, if horses were taught manners from a young age, this discussion would not be taking place. Personally, I tie them solid from day one, and never had a puller. If they struggle, they learn they cannot break free and stand still. Idiots with little or no experience, do the weirdest things around their horses, can scare them, and so starts the cycle. I have used a loop of bungie for years adn it has never broken. The loop is tied to the solid ring, and the lead rope tied to the loop. Has never failed me. I suggest you invest in good quality bungie that is meant for actual bungie jumping...this is super strong, meant to save peoples lives during a jump. it is not a bungie tie like you buy for car roof racks!! I have owned a yard (barn) for 22 years and it has never failed.


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## Azale1 (Jul 5, 2010)

EasyintheSaddle said:


> My grandpa was an old cowboy and had the BEST fix for this! I will have to try to look up the knot so I can tell you...
> 
> First tie them to something they cannot pull loose, or a halter that will break. Take a lunge line, rope, etc, and attach it to the halter and then over whatever you are tying them to. DONT tie it or wrap it around your hitching post. Take it and wrap it around your horse, around the barrel, where a girth would go. Then you tie this knot (I will seriously find it and edit this!) When they pull back, they squeeze the crap out of themselves, and when they step forward it releases. They teach themselves! Its amazing!
> 
> Also, they only learn to stand by standing. My horses have stand camp when young, where they are expected to stand quietly until I say so. If their feet are moving they do not get put away!! And they dont just stand where they get tacked up, I tie to posts in arena, the trailer (if its hooked up), a nice tree in the pasture, whereever I feel like. They learn to stand whereever I stick em!!



You NEVER want to train a horse this way. I have seen first hand what happens to horses if they pull back with this method. The get cut severely by the rope. Unless you want one very hurt horse and serious vet bill and horse out of commission for many months then use this method. But this si NOT safe.


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## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

If the horse is so dumb as to pull so hard to cut himself with an appropriate rope, then let him. Better him than me. Of course, you wouldn't want to use a nylone rope, for example.


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

Exactly, a nice thick cotton rope is perfect for that situation.


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## kiwigirl (Sep 30, 2009)

AnnieB538 said:


> Of course, if horses were taught manners from a young age, this discussion would not be taking place. Personally, I tie them solid from day one, and never had a puller. If they struggle, they learn they cannot break free and stand still. Idiots with little or no experience, do the weirdest things around their horses, can scare them, and so starts the cycle. I have used a loop of bungie for years adn it has never broken. The loop is tied to the solid ring, and the lead rope tied to the loop. Has never failed me. I suggest you invest in good quality bungie that is meant for actual bungie jumping...this is super strong, meant to save peoples lives during a jump. it is not a bungie tie like you buy for car roof racks!! I have owned a yard (barn) for 22 years and it has never failed.


I agree with the belief that good solid training with a young horse is the best solution to future tying issues. Of course we don't live in a perfect world and not all horses get such a start.

This thread has been interesting, a couple of things that intrigued me was the comment about the horse that broke its neck. I have come to the conclusion that in ALL aspects of horses random, freaky tragic accidents happen. For every horse that breaks its neck when tied solid 10,000 probably don't (this is not an official percentage by the way lol). I have found in my own experience that once a horse has had a fight with a rope and lost, this leads to them being more compliant with any form of rope restriction. Horses that know they can't bet a rope are generally easier to lead, and quicker to pick up lunging techniques and also if frightened while under the constriction of a rope tend to settle a lot faster than a horse that has had a fright and is now also fighting the rope. Notice I said in MY experience and used the word 'generally'.

Personally I like the rope around the neck and watch them try to pull their own head off method of teaching to tie, but that's just me.


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## kiwigirl (Sep 30, 2009)

Just wanted to add that the thought of saddling a horse in a horse truck absolutely horrifies me, man if that goes pear shaped where do you go?


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## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

kiwigirl said:


> Personally I like the rope around the neck and watch them try to pull their own head off method of teaching to tie, but that's just me.


Me too. It's actually rather entertaining to watch something so stupid and then to see the "ta da" look when they get it!


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## AnnieB538 (Oct 22, 2010)

To those who tie to baling twine...I have seen more accidents at shows through horses breaking free than I can count. Innocent by standers being bulldozed out of the way by runaway horses. Children being knocked over, a whole class disrupted when a loose horse got into the arena and three riders fell off due to their horses reacting to the bolting horse. Yeah...go ahead...feel sorry for your horse when he hurts himself when tied to something solid. Better that than a dead body at a show because he lacks manners, and you won't spend the time to train him.


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## morganslittleleo (Nov 3, 2010)

In my OP i belive the neck strap and halter is the best way once they learn they can pull but they wont get free they have learned it as for the fancy dancy show horses nifty idea if your gonna tie em wear they can pull put protictive boots and pads on they wont get scars that way Also saddling in a trailer Have you gone crazy .... because thats insane dangerous/all horses need to defintley be taught to tie not that they can break free and we will catch them thats crazy. teach your horse dont make excuses for it


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## AnnieB538 (Oct 22, 2010)

AlexS said:


> And this is the benefit of the internet, everyone can state their case and take from it what they want. Hopefully somewhere in that process the OP will get some advise that makes sense to them.
> 
> My previous mare would rear in crossties and become extremely dangerous any time she was tied, She came to me like this, and my fault for not seeing her tied before I bought her. So I fed her and then tied her in her stall while eating, at first I would untie her as soon as she was done, and then I gradually increased the amount of time I left her tied for after eating. Then I moved her to cross ties, and no I did not feed her in the cross ties. I let her be for a min or two, then slowly increased the time. She leant and it worked for me.


 
Very sensible approach to the problem. Horses can get used to anything given time and a little patience. Well done!


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