# Slowing down OTTB



## jumpwhat007 (Apr 10, 2009)

Hello, I have an OTTB, and its really difficult to slow him down. When you pull on the reins he just goes faster, since thats how he was trained. Any suggestions on how to slow the ****** down?


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## 1dog3cats17rodents (Dec 7, 2007)

The biggest factor is never just pull, a 1,000lb+ animal will when that battle any day, lol. Instead, sit back, hold your legs to push him into the reins, and give a brief, firm pull (not yank). Every few strides pull again and as soon as he reacts, relax your reins again. Also, do plenty of direction changes, transistions, leg yields, circles, etc. so that he has to focus on you and listen.


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## MyBoyPuck (Mar 27, 2009)

I second that. Yes, it's all in the release. He was taught to take the bit when he feels contact. Figure out what aids he responds to for a half halt. For my OTTB, it's bracing my back, sitting up tall, closing my thighs and driving him up into restraining contact. Once you find what works, apply half halts every few strides until he gets what you're asking for. As dogcatrodents said, then second he gives to the bit pressure, release. TB's are wicked smart and most are very willing to please. He'll figure it out quickly. I'd start at the walk and work up from there. When you do move up in gaits, just remember to take things down a notch if he starts to get a canter high. Have some poles lying around the arena so you can switch to a low key obstacle course game to get him relaxed again. 

Just curious. Does he have a nice canter? That's my pitfall. I love my horse's canter. Somedays we both get caught up on it and just go until one of us drops!


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## jumpwhat007 (Apr 10, 2009)

Oh yeah, his canter is AMAZING. Its so easy to sit, the only thing is hes speedy, but thats expected with an OTTB! Thanks for the tips, I'll give those a try today.


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## Sophie19 (Apr 13, 2009)

I did a lot of circling with my OTTB. It helped him chill out and he couldn't run away with me as easily.


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## ilovemyPhillip (Apr 4, 2009)

If you get into a situation that he WONT stop, do a 1 reign stop. (take one reign, pull until his head reaches his shoulder, the hop off the pulled in side).


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## Ahsisi (Apr 13, 2009)

I agree. I lot of half halts and a TON of transitions both upward and downward. Make sure the transitions come from the haunch though. Good luck!


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## RedHawk (Jun 16, 2008)

ilovemyPhillip said:


> If you get into a situation that he WONT stop, do a 1 reign stop. (take one reign, pull until his head reaches his shoulder, the hop off the pulled in side).


^^ Was going to mention the same thing. I've been using it with my OTTB - I ask once normally (lean back and pull lightly on the reins) and if he ignores that, pull his head around. It doesn't necessarily have to touch his shoulder, as he may not be that flexible yet, the point is to make him circle until he stops. Timing is everything! As soon as his feet are still, let the rein go.
Another important thing to remember is that you want him to soften as well, you dont want him leaning on the bit.
My boy has gotten to the point where he only does half a circle and then he stops, or on good days he will simply flex his head around and stop straight.


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## xkatex (Oct 7, 2007)

My OTTB had the same issue when I first got him. He had speed walk and canter down packed, everything in between was forgotten. Everything I would tell you has already been posted. Circles and half-halts helped me the most. As soon as you feel him speeding up do a downward transition to trot, trot figures (circles, figure-eights etc.) until you feel he has slowed up and is in your command than ask for canter again. My guy was good going to the right, but to the left it was all about speed. Patience is the key lol.


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## Aliboo (Jun 20, 2008)

My instructor has been telling me that when you pull back on the reins they WILL speed up. The trick is to 'pull and then release' and keep that up, while sinking down in the saddle and squeezing with your upper leg. This usually slows them down. Also if you can get them responding to voice commands on the ground and in the saddle, that helps a TON. good luck!


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## MIEventer (Feb 15, 2009)

The trick is not to pull and release - the trick is learning how to use your body aids properly.

*Seat into Legs into Hands to Soften.*

My TB was a very strong boy when I first bought him. I remember going over a small CC fence when I tried him out, and before I knew it - we were at the other end of the field before I was able to bring him down.

At that time, Dorothy Crowell was coming to town to give a clinic, which I signed us up for. She is a Rolex Eventer and competes regularily at the 4 star level, both CIC and CCI. She also represented the U.S.A in the Olympics.

So I was excited to ride under her.

After we spent some time doing Dressage, we were on our way to doing a 3 jump combo. 4 stride to a 5 stride. Something like that - anyways....I remember we came into the combo nice, rhythmic and under control - then *BAM *completly different horse.

We took the 4 in 2 and the 5 in 3. It was rediculous. I remember standing up in my irons using my hands to attempt to slow him down.

So Dorothy stopped us and gave the others exercises while working with me 1 on 1. She had me work on *Seat into Legs into Hands to Soften. *She taught me to use my seat - our horses always come down into our seats. If you slow your seat down, your horse will follow. If you soften your seat, your horse will follow. If you speed up your seat, so will your horse, if your seat is tense, so will your horse be.

It is all about your seat. Your seat comes first.

Then your legs. Your legs must be there to not only aid your seat in continueing the motion you've created, but to also lift your horses back and ribs up into you. Then your hands - always come last.

Riders always want to use their hands. YOUR HANDS DO NOT CONTROL THE FACE, THEY CONTROL THE SHOULDERS. Your hands are there to allow the energy you created through your seat and your legs - to recycle so that it stays within your horse. So that the energy does not gush out your horses front end - you do this through your outside rein, being in contact, but soft and supple. 

You never slow your horse with your hands. You slow your horse with your seat.

Your horse always comes down to your seat and what you are doing with it. 

Lots of circles. Lots of serpentines. 

I highly recommend you find a good instructor who can show this to you 1 on 1.

I was shown this through patience and guidance - and now have an amazingly controllable mount. A completely different horse, and I am thankful for the gift I was given.


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## TBsPlease (Mar 19, 2009)

If you really find yourself in dire straits, bridge your reins, lean both hands on his neck and, with your thumb still on the crest of his neck, twist the rest of your outside hand around, almost rotating around your thumb, to the other side of his neck. It's basically a pulley rein and I guarantee results. Because you are using the leverage of his own neck against him, it is difficult to impossible for him to fight it. Please note that this method is severe, though. It is when the hands are raised that you'll get into an impossible tug-of-war with him, one that he is sure to win because his neck and ingrained track training are A LOT stronger than your shoulders and forearms. Good luck!


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## RedHawk (Jun 16, 2008)

Don't know if this will help, but I stumbled upon it a little while ago and found it quite interesting.




The guy is John O'Leary, an Awesome Aussie horseman. His website has TONS of really good articles as well, that you might find helpful.
www.horseproblems.com.au


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