# Pasture plans on a small property - advice?



## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

So we are planning our pasture/paddock areas at the moment and while we own 13 acres, very little of it is cleared. There are physical obstacles to get around, like a ditch, a septic field, etc. and I need to leave room for my husband to get around on his tractor (therefore I cannot block off access to parts of the property). While I realize this much land (less than an acre for two horses) is far from ideal, we will, of course, be supplementing with hay and only plan on getting two smallish horses. I've done a lot of reading on pasture management on a small acreage and have come up with the following plan. Keep in mind the measurements are very rough as I'm eyeballing a lot of it. The paddock adjacent to the barn (the red blob) will be my sacrifice paddock, ie, I don't expect grass to grow there. This is where the horses will be kept, along with lots of hay, in the winter months, and when I'm letting the other two areas grow out. The two "pastures" (I hesitate to use the word because they're so small) will be seasonal and we will use electric fencing so we can easily move the horses around and open/close areas. A couple of questions: 

- Is the odd-shaped pasture going to be problematic? I hear horses prefer a regular shape. Will it be a problem in putting up the electric fence in an odd-shaped area? Keep in mind that shape is odd for a reason - I am trying to use as much space as I can without putting horses on a septic field or cutting off access to our storage shed.
- I assume I will need solid posts at all corners, but how many do I need in between? Can I use T-posts (with caps!) in between? Given that this odd-shaped area will be used for a few summer months only, it would be nice to be able to pull them out. There is a hill and the kids like to slide there in the winter  

Also, we have already plowed, disked and added lime to the soil. We will be planting a pasture mix in a few weeks. The horses will not be here probably for another year so we have lots of time to get some really nice grass growing in the two "pasture" areas. Any advice on that? We live in a cold climate and plan on getting some quiet trail horses who will not be working very hard. Light riding and occasional local shows for my daughter if she continues to be interested in that. So no need for a ton of calories. The field is actually quite nice and rich already. Oh, and we have clay soil if that matters at all. 

Thanks for your thoughts on this!


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

What is the area near the bottom of the pic? It looks like it has trees and bushes and grass. If so why not fence that and let the horse run in there part time. Is that your pond or the neighbor's? When first on this property I ran electric thro the trees. It doesn't have to be violin tight, in fact it's better if the wire moves in the wind a bit. Keeps the horses guessing. I used wire to tie the insulators (pieces of garden hose) and each year I'd loosen the wire because of the tree's growth. The horses will love having some shade in the trees unless you get bugs like we do then mine go in the barn and won't come out until just before dark.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

The pond is not on our property (the black line delineates our property). The trees on the other side of that pond are nowhere near the barn or the other fences and therefore hard to run electricity there. Also, there is an apple orchard right next to the house now (this is an older pic) which would be between the other pastures and the area you're talking about so impossible to run a continuous line (it would also have to run through the septic field to do that). The wooded area at the far back of the property cannot be part of the pastures because a) we need to keep a lane clear for my husband to drive the tractor around all pastures and b) there is a stream that runs through there. And directly to the right of the barn, you can see a line, that is a ditch so that can't be part of it either. 

There is a large green field way at the back of the property but it is quite far away so not possible to run electricity there and it is out of sight from the house (the trees at the back are now quite mature) so I wouldn't be able to see them if something was wrong or the fence was down. That makes me uncomfortable, but I have looked at portable electric paddocks online and thought about that as an occasional temporary enclosure. 

There are a few trees inside the pasture areas so a bit of shade here and there. We will also build a pretty wide overhang on the side of the barn where the paddock is so they can get shade there. Also thinking about dutch doors leading directly out into the pasture and giving them free range to come and go. Thoughts on that?


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

I would run the wire in straight lines and use more of that property for the horses. 
You can get solar fence chargers and battery run chargers. You will end up with no pastures at all in that small of space, they will eat and tromp it down in no time at all , and it will be full of manure fast. I would run a straight line on the left side of the house near those trees . i would then run across the width to the right side. and then a straight line down the right side.
where you have your odd shaped paddock, you could make that a soft disced up riding arena. and the other two paddocks use that for the kids to play and sled in.


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## whisperbaby22 (Jan 25, 2013)

Have you considered doing a paddock paradise instead of your dry lot. It would make your planning a lot more flexible, and better for the horses.


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

those paddocks will be dry paddocks. they are to small to allow grass growth.


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## farmpony84 (Apr 21, 2008)

I have 2 paddocks and a small pasture for six horses. I split them so that 2 go out all night and all day while the others are in a paddock and then the other four go out all night and all day. In the winter I usually leave them in the paddocks to save my grass. It has worked out nicely so far although I do plan to extend my pasture this summer.


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## JCnGrace (Apr 28, 2013)

You can get chargers powerful enough to run your whole acreage from wherever you can plug it in (I'm assuming the barn will have electricity). Access to the orchard wouldn't be a good idea but I'd certainly run it to the very back of your property. Hubby can open a gate and drive through the pasture to have access with his tractor.


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## avjudge (Feb 1, 2011)

I'm having a hard time understanding why such small pastures. Why are you including no wooded area? How deep/steep are the ditch and stream that you feel they can't be included in a pasture? Or is that due to regulations? And the clear-looking area at the back of the property (top center of the picture) doesn't look that far beyond the fence you have drawn - maybe 125 feet? Is that the stream in the line of biggest-looking trees splitting the grassy-looking top corner from the rest of your property? If not, where is the stream?

I gather the orchard is in the property corner that's bottom center in the picture?

Also, I'm a little unclear on exactly where your husband needs to get his tractor. I'd think like JCnGrace - that's what gates are for.

For my sister in NH, who has 7 or 9 acres (can't remember, but it's a small odd number) in a sort of T shape with her house in the center, we just fenced along the property line for two of the three legs of the T - enclosing woods, seasonal streams, the tiny bit of available grass, all but the house, drive, and lawn (with leach field). That's why I have the above questions. You have more land so you wouldn't need to fence the entire area, but I'm just not understanding why you're fencing so little.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

While I appreciate all the suggestions, and am not dismissing them outright, my question was about the odd-shaped pasture. Specifically, is it a problem to create such an odd-shaped pasture and would I be better off making it a rectangle. I was also asking how many 4" x 4" posts I will need and whether I can use something more temporary for the seasonal pastures in between corner posts. 

Fencing in parts of the wooded areas (but not the apple orchard - they're for our own consumption!) may be possible, but I'm a little surprised to see everyone wondering why I'm not giving horses access to a ditch or even the stream that the ditch runs into. First, as I stated, the ditch drains from the road. We live in a cold climate, which means all sorts of chemicals are dumped on the road all winter long to melt snow and ice, and then they're drained into this ditch. Allowing horses to drink from that water would be a toxic cocktail. 

Also, while I understand these "pastures" will not allow the horses to eat a lot of grass (which is why I'll be supplementing generously with hay), they are larger than a lot of other people's "pastures" around here. In fact, the last three riding stables my daughter has attended had much less space with way more horses. True, it isn't ideal, but there are geographic limitations and we are using the land for growing our own food as well. While I could include a bit of the wooded area at the back, it wouldn't make the pasture much bigger unless I include the stream and then my horses are drinking chemicals. 

The only way I can see to increase acreage for pasture is to create new enclosures away from the ones I drew, which is problematic because I cannot run power to them. Also, this satellite photo is very old and the trees have grown up very tightly together to the point where even a deer cannot run through those spaces. A lot of the woods are impenetrable. 

I have considered the solar powered fencing system for the back field (at the very top corner), but would you fence your horses in where you can't see them? I feel better keeping an eye on things, but maybe it's not necessary.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Maybe this will make it clearer. As I said, the forest growing on the lower part of the image is now very dense - firs from an abandoned Xmas tree farm have grown into each other so it is mostly impenetrable. We are slowly taking trees out of there and have established some trails, but otherwise, it's a jungle. The streams are indicated with blue lines in the photo.


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## whisperbaby22 (Jan 25, 2013)

I can't answer a lot of your questions because my horse keeping is so different, but as for the odd shaped pastures, if you are going to be using equipment in there, for instance to drag it every so often, I think all you have to consider is the size of your equipment. If it can maneuver the way you want, the odd shape should be no problem.


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## 4horses (Nov 26, 2012)

I have 3 acres for 2 horses with a dry lot paddock. The main issue I have with my set-up is the mucking. The dry lot will need to be mucked constantly. The dry lot is not big enough to get a drag into. 

You want enough room to be able to drive a drag through the dry lot and not have to muck by hand. 

Everyone where I live now keeps their horses on a large enough property so that they do not need to muck out stalls or paddocks. Even if you only muck paddocks for 15 minutes each day, by the end of the year you have spent 91.25 hours mucking! 

Will your horses have shade for the summer? If they won't have shade, look for fast growing trees to plant in areas where you want there to be shade! Or a windbreak from winter storms. 

For this small of an area, electric fencing is fine. I prefer electric fencing as it gives you the flexibility to change which area is fenced. Remember electric fencing will not keep out coyotes (if you have them where you live). 

Odd shaped pastures are fine, as long as none of your horses is a bully. If you are dealing with a bully, they tend to trap the other horse in the corner and beat them up. 

You definitely want a barn where they can come and go. I would put the barn in between the dry lot and the pasture. You want a gate to open and shut, allowing the horses access to the barn regardless of whether they are in the dry lot or pasture. 

I personally would avoid individual stalls, as it is too easy for a horse to get trapped in there by the more dominant horse. Instead, keep the stalls next to the feed room, and add a pole barn/large overhang to the end of the barn, that the horses can access year round. The stalls only need to be used during bad weather. Or you could not do stalls at all, and just do a feed room, with a very large run in. 

You could even make a 2 sided run in, as that adds some extra protection from wind/snow, but does not trap the horses should they fight with each other. 

If you only are riding once a week, I would re-consider the paddock paradise. The problem with small properties is that the horses will not self-exercise, as the area is too small. If I give my horses 2 weeks off, they will not run around on our 3 acres. The next time I go to take them out, they will be idiots from too much energy (even without grain!). And that is on 3 acres! You will quickly find, even calm horses turn into idiots with that much lack of exercise. 

Instead of making your dry lot a square could you make it a really long rectangle? I would make it 40ft by 400ft. Put water at one end and hay at the other and your horses would have to move from one end of the dry lot to the other. If your perimeter fence is wood, you could run 300 feet of electric fencing and you would have a long run, instead of a small square dry lot! 

My main 3 complaints about my property are #1 the mucking, #2 the horses not getting enough exercise and #3 the barn not being located next to the dry lot (instead it is in the pasture).


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

i use post 10 ft apart with wire fence . one pasture is just hot wire wide tape and caps on the t post and is 2 strands done with a solar power charger. 
Good luck getting rid of the old trees, I would eventually take all of those out except for the ones next to the outside fence. Maybe you could find someone who take them down for firewood. I would not let the horses have free access to apple trees. Thats a shame about the creek.


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## Nickers2002 (Nov 25, 2009)

My fence lines are in yellow. If you could do this, it would be less small spaces for horses to be trapped, a second paddock/riding area and a larger pasture with a smaller one to rotate. It does involve a small amount of trees towards the back of the larger pasture, you could go in front of them though 

I don't know how many horses you're planning to have?


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## Nickers2002 (Nov 25, 2009)

I'm on small acreage (4.25 acres for 3 horses with buildings) and most of it was already built. If I could move existing fence lines I would - but I need to work with what I have. We're putting in another pasture at some point and need to finish the 3rd paddock. Once that's done I'll have one paddock per horse for the winter so I know who is eating how much and one extra pasture for rotating. I also have a small dressage sized riding arena that we built  It can be done! Good luck.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

To answer the odd shape pasture question - yes - it gives too many areas for a horse to be trapped in a squabble. You want as few corners as possible and best is to round them out or have an angle across so they are not a corner. The bigger the square the less likely an issue and only 4 corners. I'd go straight across corner to corner with fence and cut out the "ears" both inside and outside if possible. Even the largest area is not even a third of an acre. Plan on all that to be drylot even rotational grazing there is not enough to hold two and stay green unless you plan on only a couple of hours a day turn out into the green space. I'd thin out some of the treed areas and open some space for grass patches or safe areas to ride or hang out and fence the entire piece (minus the septic) using gates wide enough for the tractor and a rough t shape with what you show fenced as the vertical for the T. Depending on the grade and where the tree line is I'd also consider bringing the tree line back a ways. No reason not to cross the water with the fence line. If it is too steep you can put a crossing over but most will find a safe place to cross.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

Just saw why the concern with the water. I wouldn't have an issue with running an alley to the back and fencing it with gates at the top and bottom to keep them away from it. I'd also have it tested at different locations during winter when if it does not freeze and spring, summer fall as it may not be as big of an issue as you think. This would limit the amt of time they could be out back but as long as there is good grass they would not likely get into trouble if they respect the fence. All of our corners are heavy treated poles with the same for bracing and additional poles set with bracing every 600 feet. So the corner has three poles and the center brace has three as well. All poles between are t posts with toppers. Most are spaced 10 - 12 feet depending on the fence line.


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## avjudge (Feb 1, 2011)

To start I'll say that I don't have experience with a lot of horses. But we had horses - a Tennessee Walker and a northern New England mutt (Morgan-ish - different people said different things - stubborn, curious, very level-headed) in northern NH for about 20 years, and over the last 2.5 years that my sister has had horses I've set up & maintained the fences for her two Standardbreds.

It sounds to me like the concern with the water is just winter salt. (Do they use something additional your area - "all sorts of chemicals are dumped on the road all winter long to melt snow and ice"? In the New England towns & cities I'm familiar with, it's just rock salt and sand. And I gather the road must be more major than the one I lived on or the one my sister lives on now, where salt use is minimal.) So I don't see an issue in the summer. Just give them access to the areas that include the stream only in the summer. It's probably a good idea to keep them away from it in the winter anyway because of possible ice buildup. 

Actually, the bottom end of my summer pasture was a river still polluted by a pulp & paper mill (Androscoggin River in the '80s as years of abuse slowly cleared - at least I think the towns treated their sewage by then!) and I never worried about the horses drinking from that - I figure they're not going to drink something that smells/tastes funny. They always drank plenty from the bucket. 

I also still don't understand why no wooded areas are included. If parts are impassable the horses will just go around them, and over time you can peck away at clearing them. In the summer our horses' field was half woods, half pasture. In the winter we kept them in an area that was completely wooded - the summer pasture was floodplain so it would sometimes go completely underwater in the spring, we didn't want them on the grass as the frost went out of the ground, and it was flat so there wasn't the wind-blocking south-facing hillside that the uphill side of the road offered. The woods didn't do them any harm, and made running the fence much easier (no posts!).

As for having your horses out of sight, our horses were out 24/7 and that meant whenever they were in the woods or we slept or left the house they were out of sight. So obviously it doesn't strike me as an issue. 

In your case I’d probably run a pasture from the barn right down to the corner at the top of the picture, and sure you won't see the horses when they're down in the far corner, but you'll see them come suppertime, and maybe at naptime too.

Oh, and questions about posts - we had electric fence, mostly two strands. Back when I used wire, currently for my sister I use 1/4" electric rope (and much as I think my teenage/young-adult fences were great, so far that one's an improvement ). 

In the woods we just put the insulators on trees, and use thin fiberglass rods where suitable trees aren't close enough together. The thin rods work great when there's no sideways force on them, i.e. in a perfectly straight line between the stronger posts/trees to either side of them. They can't take any sideways force at all. As for fastening to the trees, a hint from a fencing seminar was to put the insulators on a board (1x2 or 1x3), then put the board on the tree, and as the tree grows it won't "eat" the insulator. I can't confirm that, as they haven't been up long enough (2.5 years) for the trees to grow appreciably. I’ve found that for the rope I like the pinlock insulators, so I cut 2' sections of 1x2 and sit in my basement with my drill using deck screws to fasten two insulators on 18" apart, drill 2 or 3 holes, then take those to my sister’s and whack, whack, they’re on the tree.

In open field I've used braced wooden corner posts, then run straight lines with steel posts interspersed with the fiberglass ones. 1 steel - 2 fiberglass - repeat, each 7 or 8 paces apart. Or you could go all steel. Whatever, either should work (if you keep the fence energized, but that goes for anything). Most recently, when I use the fiberglass rods I’ve been using the metal clips to hold the fence on - I place the clips with pliars, one right at the top & the other 18" down, before I set out from the house, then just drive them until the top is at the right height for the upper strand, assuming I’m not in a rocky spot.

A nice thing about the fiberglass posts is their flexibility. I once watched a moose step over my fence well away from the steel posts. The fiberglass whipped back and forth for a while, but the wire was intact and I had no mending to do - well, except finding or replacing the plastic insulators that flew off the posts in the course of their gyrations - that’s why I use the clips now. (That was a particularly considerate moose. After walking alongside the wire, he entered the pasture on its wooded side through a break in the fence where something else had gone through it during the winter - I was there fixing it at the time, and hadn't yet closed the gap. I walked up to the house to tell my mom - OK, I admit, having a moose wander by so close shook me! - and from there we could look out to the open pasture and see him come out from the woods, cross the pasture, and step over the fence without breaking anything. Boy, do I digress!)

Obviously you have your own ideas about what you want, so take from my ramblings what's useful for you. . .


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

QtrBel said:


> Just saw why the concern with the water. I wouldn't have an issue with running an alley to the back and fencing it with gates at the top and bottom to keep them away from it. I'd also have it tested at different locations during winter when if it does not freeze and spring, summer fall as it may not be as big of an issue as you think. This would limit the amt of time they could be out back but as long as there is good grass they would not likely get into trouble if they respect the fence. All of our corners are heavy treated poles with the same for bracing and additional poles set with bracing every 600 feet. So the corner has three poles and the center brace has three as well. All poles between are t posts with toppers. Most are spaced 10 - 12 feet depending on the fence line.


Thanks for the info on the posts and bracing. 

Yes, thought about an alley... but it's not practical at this point as the stream blocks the way so I'd have to put in a bridge. Probably easier to lead the horses across if we want to fence in the back field. Maybe with a solar charger. But for now, we're going to start with the two small pastures and see how that goes... 

And sorry, but I had to chuckle at your comment "if it doesn't freeze". My fault for not pointing it out in my OP, but we are stuck in -30 CELCIUS weather for months on end here. That's -22 Farenheit in case you thought you read it wrong. So everything is frozen solid (even a good chunk of the ocean) for at least half the year. 

And before you all start saying I can let the horses have access to the frozen stream since they won't be able to drink out of it, I should also point out that we got about 18 feet of snow last winter altogether. Not all at once, mind you, but with little freezing in between snowfalls so that from January to March, there was about 4-5 feet of snow on the ground at all times. This means the horses will be in the "sacrifice" or winter paddock, adjacent to the barn, for about 8-9 months of the year. They will tramp down a smaller area and most likely spend a lot of time there. So lots of hay (I am planning on half a square bale per horse for the entire year because even with pasture, I will have to supplement) and occasionally, after a big storm, I will get hubby to clear some snow out of the paddock with his tractor with snowblower attachment. 

People around here are still waiting for the grass to be tall enough to turn their horses out to pasture. June, July and August (and part of September) are the only months we will be using the pastures. The plan is to let them use one for 3-4 weeks, then move them to the other as it re-grows. The whole time they will have access to the barn for shelter and the sacrifice paddock will have hay and water access. I will try this for the first year and see how things go. If it's a disaster, we will start fencing in other areas.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Nickers2002 said:


> My fence lines are in yellow. If you could do this, it would be less small spaces for horses to be trapped, a second paddock/riding area and a larger pasture with a smaller one to rotate. It does involve a small amount of trees towards the back of the larger pasture, you could go in front of them though
> 
> I don't know how many horses you're planning to have?


2 horses - we prefer them smaller too. 

And thanks! This is really useful! While there are some impediments to your design (the portion at the back with the trees is a pear orchard so we can't let the horses in there and we can't block off access to the little rectangular shed in the middle, also, we have a vegetable garden by the house and finally, those 3 dots along the fence line of the paddock are red maples - toxic to horses), BUT the idea of making a really big pasture and a smaller one intrigues me. We could let them in the smaller one for the first couple of weeks of spring grazing while the bigger one matures... but is there a rationale for making a small and a big pasture as opposed to two of equal size? Finally, my daughter's riding instructor has suggested we have at least one 100 x 60 ft riding arena. The "sacrifice" or dry paddock doubles as a riding arena. And it can only go right behind the barn (big red thing) because that's the only flat area of the property. I understand why you divided it up into two long rectangular sections, but if I were to do that, it would have to be with temporary fencing that can be removed when my daughter has her lesson. Probably not very practical. 

I do, however, like how you made a straight diagonal line by the septic field. I'll have to get out and see where the septic field actually ends to make sure we are not encroaching too much but it avoids the irregular pattern.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

Just for comparison size wise - I have almost but just under an acre fenced as a small riding area/catch pen/separation. Whatever it needs to be except dry lot or long term grazing. There is a mix of bermuda planted that we overseed with annual rye that is seeded and fertilized. Once it is up and ready to be grazed my two QHs will eat the entire area down in 8 - 12 hours. It takes at least three days to recover if rain is good. If I put my three drafts on it it takes half that time for them to have it grazed down. Depending on the type of grass, whether you fertilize and rainfall you could see better or worse recovery times. To keep it from being overgrazed you would want to limit grazing by closing the gate and keeping them off for part of the day. I have a friend that turns 8-10 out on 20 acres for 8 - 10 hours and keeps them up the rest of the day for the same reason. With two acres per horse she can turn out daily without over grazing. The longer they are on it the more they take off to the point of destroying the crown and then the grass will not regrow. You can gauge what works by turning them out and walking the area at the end of the day. How much have they grazed and take note of where they are pooping (all over or in one area). They won't eat where they poop and some will be neat enough to choose a potty area - that usually stays taller as they don't eat it and you wouldn't count that as available grazing but makes pick up easier. The longer you leave them on it the more they poop on it. Don't count on it lasting three to four weeks. Instead plan on perhaps three days limited turn out on each each week with one day of rest for both by keeping horses up one day completely. I don't fondly remember winters spent in the north east for these reasons. In all of the areas we lived rock salt and sand were what was used for de-icing roads. I'd be curious to know what chemicals are used in your area. You'll figure something that works. It is far easier to start slow and adjust then have them completely destroy an area and leave you starting over. In contrast my brother has two on 3/4 acre with 1/4 that was supposed to be dry lot and gave the horses free access to both areas. Within weeks the "pasture" was destroyed and within the first three months the area was a dray lot as well. They are in Tx and have a higher pasture to horse ratio but the end result would have been the same. Good luck. Post pics when you have the horses. We love pics.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

QtrBel, the chemical composition of de-icing "salt" and "sand" is difficult to pin down because if varies from province to province. If you read up on the composition of road salt, it contains things like dust suppressants and anti-caking chemicals so it's not like getting a shake of the salt shaker  Also, because of our extreme cold temps, salt is used less and less in our part of the world (we're told it's useless for -15 and below) and "sand" is beginning to take over. It just ends up making a mess, but driving on ice isn't a great idea either. Again, that stuff is full of additives that make it easier to spread and/or work effectively. 

Found this on a site describing clean-up of road "sand" specific to our area: "Winter sand may also contain contaminants such as excessive heavy metals (lead and cadmium), petroleum hydrocarbons (oil and grease), and chlorides (from deicing salts), requiring disposal in accordance with environmental regulations (MTO, 1995; Land Technologies, 1997)." Which made me laugh. We live in a rural area and no one comes along in the spring to wash the roads and clean the ditches from road sand. Yet they do apply tons of it because there is a school, ambulance bay and fire station on our road. We've lost trees 30 ft away from the road to road "salt". They just die. What doesn't get washed away gets absorbed into the soil. I won't even let the horses graze next to the road because of the spray of salt trucks that fly by at breakneck speeds. 

And you're right, I will have to keep a close eye on how the pastures are doing (we're seeding right now with some trample-resistant mixes and will give the whole area about a year to grow up before we put horses on it). We do get tons of precipitation so growing conditions in this area are great for the 3 months or so that we actually have growth. If it means putting them in the paddock for part of the day with hay, that may be what we have to do. Though I haven't ruled out fencing in the large area at the back, I want to get comfortable with my electric fence and make sure the horses respect it before I put them somewhere out of sight. I was also told that the shock from a solar charger is weaker so it's important to earn that respect of fencing before I put them in a lower voltage area. I may have to lunge them when I can't ride to give them enough exercise. And yes, I will post pics but it will not be for a while! Thanks for your great suggestions!


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

Depends on the solar charger. I haven't used one lately but when we did I had a couple of really good ones. With the right set up and a good ground they should still be very effective.


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