# Buying a trailer ... new to pulling horses



## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

Of course, make sure your towing vehicle is suitable and safe for the trailer you buy. 

When you find a trailer, I would first practice driving it around empty (no horse). If you can, go find a big empty parking lot somewhere and practice backing up. Just get comfortable in how much room you need to turn (forward or backing).

It may also be helpful for you (if you have a spouse) to take a ride in the trailer yourself! This can be really eye-opening for how much a trailer can make you move around back there. 

In general, when you finally haul a horse, you will want to take your time with both acceleration and stopping, and take turns slower than you normally would. When I haul my horses, I like to say I'm driving like an old grandma but I could care less because my horses are previous cargo and the rest of the drivers will just have to deal with me. 

Also make sure you take the time to practice loading and unloading at home before you ever actually take them anywhere.


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## KBA6 (Aug 24, 2013)

We bought a Chevy 3500 dually ... which i thought was waaaay too much truck when my husband bought it, but since driving it, I've come to really like it. I use to get hay in a small nissan frontier, that would get stuck in our pastures. With this beast, I've had no problems. 

I've just had to get use to the wide back tires, but that's been a pretty easy acclimation. 
I'm told this truck will haul a load of cattle, so trailing my two horses shouldn't be a problem.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

First off.... WELCOME back to the world of horses and the fun they can offer...
So...
Do you have a preference for a gooseneck or bumper pull trailer?
_Before everyone jumps on the poster for either answer...._
Is this trailer going to be solely for hauling horses or will you need it to be dual-purpose of moving cattle around too?
Answers to that will give way for some better suggestions and help.

As far as a truck...
_You got that covered_ and you can haul near anything you want with that size vehicle. :smile:

So, any particular things you want in that trailer?
For how many horses and what size are they as all that information will get the posters giddy with excitement, me too!!
With that kind of information shared, more precise advice and suggestions that took years of driving to figure out can be shared...

So since you have the right sized truck we can leave that alone...

The one thing I will suggest strongly _is before you ever put a horse in a trailer..._
Learn to drive the truck with the trailer attached....go everywhere dragging that around so you get used to stopping, starting, turning and finding places to park, where you fit and where you don't.
Learn to back-up around turns and for more than 10'... and_ be good at it._
Once you get proficient empty, take someone for a ride in the trailer then see their reaction as soon as you stop...hatred, puking sick, twinkle in the eye and wanting to go again...much depends upon the driver behind the wheel and how good they are with driving, avoiding or hitting every bump & curb....easy start/stop or jerking you off your feet and balance gone.
A really good place to learn to drive is in your pasture_ first_ where no trees but fences to go through from field to field or at least some space away from things that jump out and bite the truck or trailer sides...:icon_rolleyes:
:runninghorse2:.....
_jmo..._


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

You'll have to decide between a slant load or a straight load or an open stock trailer. If you're hauling more than two horses that limits your choices. If your horses are large you'll have a struggle to find a slant load with enough room. Most modern trailers are available with 7' or 7'6" heights, so they're tall enough for even big horses, but a trailer can only be 8' wide, and the space taken up by the wheel wells makes it difficult to make the stalls long enough in a slant.

Most horses will jump pretty willingly into an open stock trailer, especially with a full width door. With slant loads it makes loading easier if there isn't a rear tack room forcing the horse to go in through the restricted opening. A straight load can present the biggest training challenge but offers unbeatable space and ventilation.


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## Eleven (Dec 12, 2017)

I purchased an old F250 HD with trailer brake connections and metal bumper when I moved into country and now I am planing on getting a horse trailer to be able to take Eleven to the vet to get him fixed! I decided to get a trailer when I called the vet. and got to know that they charge $8 per mile and I am about 28 miles away from them. There are so many used horse trailers on Craigslist for below $2000 so it makes more sense to purchase one instead of paying $500 to the vet per visit. I just need to figure out what to pay attention to when purchasing one 

So I am going to be following this thread closely


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## KBA6 (Aug 24, 2013)

Thank you all for the great suggestions. 

To answer a couple of questions ...
I have 3 horses, so I was looking for a 3 horse trailer, anything bigger intimidates me and I may consider a 2 horse since the 3rd horse is actually a boarder ... But his momma and I ride together constantly.

I've only pulled a bumper pull before, but I've heard goosenecks are easier ... So I don't have a preference and am considering both. 

I'm also interested to know if there is anything I need to keep in mind when traveling to other farms. What if there isn't enough parking? Is there any trailer etiquette I should know? What do you usually take with you? 

How long do horses need to rest after traveling? Or can the jump out of the trailer and start to ride?

I told ya I was a newbie!! Is there arena etiquette I should know?


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

I'll give you answer and my opinion for what I can and sure others will do the same...
I'm going to answer under each of your statement/questions.



KBA6 said:


> Thank you all for the great suggestions.
> 
> To answer a couple of questions ...
> I have 3 horses, so I was looking for a 3 horse trailer, anything bigger intimidates me and I may consider a 2 horse since the 3rd horse is actually a boarder ... But his momma and I ride together constantly.
> ...


Those are some ideas to ponder...
:runninghorse2:....
_jmo..._


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

KBA6 said:


> I have 3 horses, so I was looking for a 3 horse trailer, anything bigger intimidates me and I may consider a 2 horse since the 3rd horse is actually a boarder ... But his momma and I ride together constantly.


It's always better to have more trailer than you need. :smile:

I would suggest for you to consider a 3-horse at the minimum. When you start showing and/or traveling with your 2 horses, having an extra spot is so nice for hay, buckets, panels, etc. You'll always find things to put in it!



KBA6 said:


> I've only pulled a bumper pull before, but I've heard goosenecks are easier ... So I don't have a preference and am considering both.


Personally, I will never own a bumper pull. On a windy day when you are hauling down the interstate, bumper pulls can sometimes fish tail. A gooseneck will not do that. I also think that goosenecks provide a more stable ride for the horses, than a bumper pull.

I also find goosenecks easier to back up. A bumper pull can jack-knife on you if you aren't careful. And yes, with a gooseneck you are often going to want to watch your back window, but it seems like it's more "forgiving". IMO.



KBA6 said:


> I'm also interested to know if there is anything I need to keep in mind when traveling to other farms. What if there isn't enough parking? Is there any trailer etiquette I should know? *What do you usually take with you? *


Parking etiquette -- please leave enough room between trailers so that if you have horses tied to your trailer, and your neighbor has horses tied to their trailer, that the horses can't kick each other!! And please don't double park or block anyone in.

I can't say I've ever been anywhere where there "isn't enough parking". There's always _somewhere_ to park. Might not be ideal and might be tight to get into, but sometimes you need to get creative. I've been to my state fair once (and probably never again, LOL) and the trailers are literally parked inches from each other. It was insane. I had 4 guys on the ground helping me shimmy into my spot. No fun! Again, just make sure you are familiar with your rig and how it handles.

I bolded this last section in your post. You might want to look up the latest "issue" with the* new ELD mandate* and how it affects horse owners. Even if you don't "qualify" you're going to want to be aware of it in case you ever get pulled over. 



KBA6 said:


> How long do horses need to rest after traveling? Or can the jump out of the trailer and start to ride?


Depends how long you've traveled and what you are traveling for. Most of the time, it is not an issue.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

The big advantage of a gooseneck is that is places around 20% of the weight of the trailer right over the axle of your truck. It might not make it any "easier" to maneuver but it is certainly more resistant to disastrous shifts than a bumper pull.


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## Golden Horse (Feb 20, 2010)

Eleven said:


> I purchased an old F250 HD with trailer brake connections and metal bumper when I moved into country and now I am planing on getting a horse trailer to be able to take Eleven to the vet to get him fixed! I decided to get a trailer when I called the vet. and got to know that they charge $8 per mile and I am about 28 miles away from them. There are so many used horse trailers on Craigslist for below $2000 so it makes more sense to purchase one instead of paying $500 to the vet per visit. I just need to figure out what to pay attention to when purchasing one
> 
> So I am going to be following this thread closely


Hang on, he isn't fixed yet? best get that done before spring arrives.

It does not always make sense to get a trailer, best way to cut the cost is to share a visit, get the vet to call in when they are in your area...by the time you buy a trailer, a tow vehicle, maintenance, gas, wear and tear, it doesn't make the vet call out fee look reasonable.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

Golden Horse said:


> It does not always make sense to get a trailer, best way to cut the cost is to share a visit, get the vet to call in when they are in your area...by the time you buy a trailer, a tow vehicle, maintenance, gas, wear and tear, it doesn't make the vet call out fee look reasonable.


That is certainly true. I've had horses on my property for almost 20 years and never owned a trailer. The vet comes here, and if I added up the charges for all those farm calls over the years, it wouldn't pay for a new set of trailer tires. Our vet service offers a discount for bunching spring vaccinations by area.

I have moved horses using a variety of borrowed and rented trailers, but never to get one to the vet. Check your area rental businesses and Craigslist to discover your rental possibilities.


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## KBA6 (Aug 24, 2013)

Let me just say THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH
Taking the time to reply so thoroughly is something I really appreciate and it has been beyond helpful. 

I haven't heard of some of these things, for example, I had no idea about the red ribbon on a tail. 

The arena etiquette sounds pretty common sense for people who already know to leave things as you find it when you are a guest. 

I rode in my first arena event in November and went to clean up my horse's droppings after we got finished with our run, and the barn manager laughed at me like I was being silly. I was confused, the next level riders were still mounting up and I wasn't delaying the event, but the barn manager still made a comment ... so now I'm all worried about etiquette. I'll probably just look like a Pollyanna until I get some miles under my belt. The event was mounted archery, so there is some time between runs to move targets.

I think I'm leaning towards a 3 horse, slant load ... 

One thing I'm noticing is gooseneck trailers usually have sleeping quarters and I don't think I'll ever use that, so I have more bumper-pulls flagged for that reason only. I know I don't want a straight load because my QH mare can not back out of a trailer... I was told she had to be left in the trailer overnight by her previous owner because she wouldn't back out of a straight load, 2 horse trailer ... They said she finally "fell" out when it was feeding time.

I have not trailered her, she loads and trailers like a dream ... just won't back out of a trailer. My Arabian takes about 20 minutes every time ... believe me! I've worked with him. It's just who he is. He's gotten better ... it use to be an hour event. We'll have more practice time when I get a trailer. The last barn I boarded at allowed us to practice on their's, but we didn't do it consistently. My friend's Mustang is an experienced traveler and she plans on traveling with us. 

To answer a question, she is not capable of buying a trailer (young, pregnant with her 1st, etc). But I'll be happy to have her along since she has experience with rodeos and traveling.

Once I decide to buy, I will definitely take everyone's advice and practice practice practice before I make the trip. I'll probably be going home a few times with the horses before we make trips to shows so I get comfortable. It's about a 2.5 hour drive and I'll be able to test how the horses ride after that trip. 

The only other events I know of are about that far away. 

Again, THANK YOU ALL!


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

KBA6 said:


> I think I'm leaning towards a 3 horse, slant load ...


Should be easy to find, possibly the most popular trailer out there right now. Extra versatility if the dividers can be easily removed.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

One tidbit I've learned over many years....
Straight or slant load...
When looking at the back doors and how they secure shut...
_Do *not *purchase a trailer with a rear door steel beam fixed in place..._
You lose the accessibility of getting a claustrophobic horse past that beam, and you lose the ability to use that trailer for moving anything too.

As for your horse not backing out...that_* is*_ a training issue and one that you need to work on now and continually till she does it, does it well and without issue.
She doesn't go in reverse because she has holes in her training of going forward...
If she will back steps on a lead shank in barn aisle, in riding arenas or anyplace then she will back off a trailer.
I guarantee you, if she was on my trailer she would be backing off _*cause I said so*_, not doing as she wants cause she wants..
This is a handling and safety issue and one you need to fix. *Please...*
If you buy a 2 horse slant load with rear tack...she better back off or you just bought yourself a bunch of trouble and she can only haul in one position on the trailer is just not smart, sorry.
Not much better with a 3 horse either...
A good way to have a anxious, nervous or excited horse jump on you is to allow them to turn around and go off forward with a jump to the ground not a feel & touch with a hind toe...:frown_color:
It just isn't smart...._sorry.
:runninghorse2:....
jmo...
_


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

KBA6 said:


> I think I'm leaning towards a 3 horse, slant load ...
> 
> One thing I'm noticing is gooseneck trailers usually have sleeping quarters and I don't think I'll ever use that, so I have more bumper-pulls flagged for that reason only.


You can get goosenecks that just have the dressing room in front, and not living quarters. That's what I have: a 3-horse slant load trailer with front dressing room and rear tack (although I use the rear tack as my "feed room"). 



KBA6 said:


> I know I don't want a straight load because my QH mare can not back out of a trailer...


Depending on the style of slant load that you get, you may have to back your horse out of the slant load too. 

I would say most of the slant load styles you will find have a rear tack, because that's what's popular. Usually, they are "collapsable" -- meaning that you can move them to the side and open up the back, but that involves moving pins around and sliding things around. That's not really something you want to be doing when you have a horse in the back slant that doesn't unload well.

Even the middle stall, depending on your trailer design and the size of your horses, may not have enough room for your horse to safely turn around to unload. 

They do make slant loads with completely open backs but they usually are a little harder to find.





KBA6 said:


> I was told she had to be left in the trailer overnight by her previous owner because she wouldn't back out of a straight load, 2 horse trailer ... They said she finally "fell" out when it was feeding time.
> 
> I have not trailered her, she loads and trailers like a dream ... just won't back out of a trailer. My Arabian takes about 20 minutes every time ... believe me! I've worked with him. It's just who he is. He's gotten better ... it use to be an hour event. We'll have more practice time when I get a trailer. The last barn I boarded at allowed us to practice on their's, but we didn't do it consistently.


Both of your horses sound like they just simply have some ground work problems that need to be addressed through *training*. I call them ground work problems because that's what they are -- the horse is refusing to move it's feet where you ask them to. (It just so happens a trailer is involved in the mix.)

It would never accept "that's just how it is". Any horse can train to load/unload easily. But it takes time and consistency.

I would start working with your horses NOW on the ground work and you can continue to build on that when you finally have a trailer. You'll need to do your homework ahead of time anyway. 

I have a trailer loading thread that may help you, but I do suggest *finding a trainer* to help you the first few times when you finally do get a trailer. 

Here's the thread.

Take a read! I found Clinton Anderson's trailer loading DVD to be very useful. I certainly do not progress as quickly or aggressively as he does, but he still has great information in the DVD.

I usually travel every weekend in the summer to rodeos or horse shows or whatever it may be. Both of my horses self-load and self-unload. The less I physically need to be in the trailer with them, the safer it is for me.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

Clinton Anderson says that when a horse owner and a horse get close enough to a trailer, both their brains fall out. One of the reasons horses have difficulty backing out of trailers is that every time they get loaded they have three people beating on them from behind or pulling on a butt rope while somebody else is ready to slam the door shut.

This Neanderthal ritual is a substitute for actually training a horse to calmly walk into and back out of a trailer. The KEY to getting a horse to back out of a trailer is to let him do it before he gets in. If he can back up after one front foot is in, after two front feet are in, and especially after one hind foot is in, he will get the hang of backing out under control. Let him do it a hundred times before he ever gets all the way in.

I know horselovinguy seemed a little rough on you, but a horse that can't back out of a trailer is a wreck waiting to happen. If you truly don't believe you can ever teach the horse to back out you would be better off with a really wide open stock trailer.

And Brittany's horse loading thread is extremely well done.


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## KBA6 (Aug 24, 2013)

Boy do I wish it was as simple as groundwork. How great would that be! 
*But it just is who he is*. I know this, because I know my horse.

He was sent to a trainer who beat him for refusing to load. The kind of trainer who insisted an "_animal does everything just because I say so_." He eventually laid down, and a group of men tied chains around his middle and dragged him into the trailer. He was 5, I was 12. It was horrible. It ruined him for years. 

I've had other trainers work with him ... but it's a trust issue and before he steps a foot *towards* that big steel trap he has to trust you completely ... because that is just who he is. He's not a robot, he's an incredibly intelligent horse who still remembers a terrible experience.

He only loads for me ... hell he only approaches a trailer for me. To everyone else, this looks like I'm giving in. But, to him, it's taking the time to convince him it won't turn into a fight. I never let him escalate. Once he becomes nervous and fearful, we stop, we relax, and we start again. Since I don't have a trailer, we have only had a few times to work on it. But doing it like this has been the only way to get him to calmly step up and in. So I'm very proud of cutting our time from an hour to 20 min. I think once we have a trailer, it won't take long before he is walking in easily.... just gotta get a trailer. 

I might not be the best trainer, I never even pretend to be. But he has become the best horse I've ever known. I trust him to take my 5yo on trails, to fly over 4' fences with me, he runs archery courses like a champ, he listens to hand cues at liberty and the slightest knee touch when I'm shooting ... recently he took my girl scout troop on their first riding lessons. (I'm a proud momma)

I know people become experts on parenting when they see a child misbehave in public ... it seems like this is always the case with horses too. Anytime Hassad takes time to load, I have 20 people come up to tell me what I'm doing wrong, what I should do, how to do it, where and with what. It's one of the reasons why we have never competed or traveled.

Sorry ... just a bit of a touchy subject. Moving on ... 

Of course, I'll be working with the mare, and I love the suggestion of making her step back out before she has gotten all the way in. I've never seen her refuse to go backward, I've just been told this by her previous owner. 

I've been working with her on it in preparation. I've had her step backward over logs, parallels and recently had her to come up on the porch with me and step off in reverse. She did all this fine, so I'm curious to see how she refuses in a trailer. 

And yes, I'm not very "smart" about hauling horses (which is why I started this thread). But I know my horses and I want to accommodate them as they are now, and not as they should be. And I absolutely want to keep them (and me) as safe as possible.

Thank you all again for the advice, it's been very helpful.


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## KBA6 (Aug 24, 2013)

I have a trailer loading thread that may help you, but I do suggest *finding a trainer* to help you the first few times when you finally do get a trailer. 

Here's the thread.



Thank you! I'll be reading through this and taking notes!


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

KBA6 said:


> And yes, I'm not very "smart" about hauling horses (which is why I started this thread). But I know my horses and I want to accommodate them as they are now, and not as they should be. And I absolutely want to keep them (and me) as safe as possible.


You're absolutely right...
It is easy standing on the sideline and telling you how to do "it"....
What helps though is to be clued in that the horse had a serious training wrong done to him and it has and always will be a uphill battle to keep his trust.
You do what you need to do, but please always do it remembering this horse is over 1000 pounds of chaos waiting to explode because of what he had done to him.

So, when you go searching for that trailer...
Trailers come in different widths...make sure you are only looking at the widest ones manufactured to give you the best chance of safely turning that horse inside if you don't know if he will back out of a trailer from what you have been told. 
I know they make 8' wide in most slant or stock configuration or go the next step and look for a design that allows you to lead in from a step-up or ramp and lead out off a ramp. 
The trailers I see advertised like this 3 horse configuration...2 straight, 1 box and all horses fully protected from each other. 
_Sundowner Trailer Corporation 
Horse Trailer Models | Custom Horse Trailers | Horse Trailer Manufacturer | Horse Trailer Options | Hawk Trailers
Pro-Classic 2+1
_ This is some of the companies making a configuration something like this you might not know about...
They cost more, but may be a solution to a situation you have little control over.
*That is not a dig at you...*you are dealing with some serious "baggage" in a huge animal. 
I give you much credit. 
I probably would of sent him down the road a long time ago honestly.
He must be a exceptional horse.... 
Good luck.
:runninghorse2:....


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## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

IMO a stock type trailer is better than a slant load. The slant loads I feel are easier to get trapped in by a horse and it is hard to move around in there and do things like hang up hay bags. 

Had a 16' stock trailer and could load five horses in it slant load, or two in the back straight load, or one in the front and one in the back with box stalls. 

Used to camp out in the front portion, at shows and on the trail by duct taping plastic over the slats. Wasn't fancy but was plenty of room for everything in there, tack, food for people, dogs and horses, room for two cots, etc. 

Plus it moved our household belongings two times and carried hay (round and square) from the fields to our barn many times. 

Finally they are the most economical option. If you have a horse that doesn't back out, then a stock trailer is the best choice IMO. 

I have a two horse straight load now, but sometimes still miss my stock trailer. 

Sundowner makes a really nice Aluminum one with double doors on the back (easier if not a lot of room) but mine was a steel trailer and I used it for 10 years quite happily. It was a bumper pull and weighed only 2000 pounds so was easy to haul. They make gooseneck ones too, and you would have space in the front to store tack and such.


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

KBA6 said:


> Boy do I wish it was as simple as groundwork. How great would that be!
> *But it just is who he is*. I know this, because I know my horse.


But it* IS* as simple as groundwork. 

Trust me, I have been in your shoes. I totally get it. My old horse Beau was always a tough loader. Sometimes he'd hop right on, but sometimes it would take 20-30 minutes to load or longer. There was one show, I couldn't get him loaded to go home. And we had lots of people try to "help". Most were disasterous, but I did have one friend who successfully got him on in about 15 minutes. 

Another time we couldn't get him loaded after moving cows. So my mom and I rode the 6 miles back home in the dark. Turned out to be a nice ride home with the full moon ... but I would have preferred to have gotten home quicker!!

Same horse also cow kicked me across the yard at the farrier's when I was having trouble getting him loaded. That experience was an eye opener for me. 

I wish I had the trailer loading knowledge then, that I do know. Because I'm confident I could have "fixed" him too.



KBA6 said:


> He was sent to a trainer who beat him for refusing to load. The kind of trainer who insisted an "_animal does everything just because I say so_." He eventually laid down, and a group of men tied chains around his middle and dragged him into the trailer. He was 5, I was 12. It was horrible. It ruined him for years.
> 
> I've had other trainers work with him ... but it's a trust issue and before he steps a foot *towards* that big steel trap he has to trust you completely ... because that is just who he is. He's not a robot, he's an incredibly intelligent horse who still remembers a terrible experience.


You are correct - trailer loading IS a trust issue. The horse has to trust you and respect you. (This is why trailer loading is actually a ground manners issue!)

However, his history actually means nothing to me. The training process is the same. Sure, you might progress a little slower with a horse like this, but their history does not matter. Work with the horse you have in front of you at that moment. How far you push the horse in one session depends on how the individual horse is responding. You'll have good days and bad days - that's normal with anything. But again, the past does not matter. You just work with the horse you have and move forward.



KBA6 said:


> I think once we have a trailer, it won't take long before he is walking in easily.... just gotta get a trailer.


Yup, getting a trailer is obviously going to give you time to practice with the object in question. But until then, use other things to practice the same fundamentals. 

Get a big piece of cardboard, or a big blue tarp, or whatever you have. Practice one foot on, and one foot off. Repeat 1,000 times. Be in 100% control of his feet and body at all times. Then guide two feet on, and two feet off, 1,000 times. Be in 100% control of his feet and body at all times. Etc and so forth. 

Then when you finally do get a trailer, repeat the same exercise. You are not doing anything different .... except changing the object.



KBA6 said:


> Of course, I'll be working with the mare, and *I love the suggestion of making her step back out before she has gotten all the way in.* I've never seen her refuse to go backward, I've just been told this by her previous owner.


This is the whole concept. You are essentially training them to load and unload at the same time. That's why you do one foot in, and one foot out, 1,000 times. Then repeat with 2 feet, and so on. That horse should never put more feet into the trailer (or whatever object you are working with) than you have asked them too ... or they are rushing and not listening to you. Remember --- 100% control at all times!!


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

KBA6 said:


> I might not be the best trainer, I never even pretend to be.


You sound like a pretty good trainer to me.



KBA6 said:


> Of course, I'll be working with the mare, and I love the suggestion of making her step back out before she has gotten all the way in. I've never seen her refuse to go backward, I've just been told this by her previous owner.
> 
> I've been working with her on it in preparation. I've had her step backward over logs, parallels and recently had her to come up on the porch with me and step off in reverse. She did all this fine, so I'm curious to see how she refuses in a trailer.


I am looking forward to hearing your progress. I think you are very close to solving this issue.


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## KBA6 (Aug 24, 2013)

Hey - that tarp idea is exactly what we've been doing! Great minds, huh! lol
I think having a trailer is the key. Imma gonna work on it everyday!! lol 
Seriously, it's a life goal at this point. He's 20 ... he will master this!  


Getting back to trailers: 
I found one that looks like it will suit my needs, however, it is an older but 1k under budget. Looks clean and well kept.
It is a gooseneck stock trailer, aluminum floor, 12 foot long, escape door, cut gate (partition 8ft in front, 4ft in back), new tires.

I like the suggestion that a stock trailer could serve multiple purposes as far as hauling hay, etc. 

It doesn't have brakes ... but my husband is pretty handy and does all of our auto work. 
Is this something that is easy to install? 
I have a break box in the truck, so how much does that usually cost to add to a trailer?

The truck has 5th wheel rails, so I just have to get a gooseneck hitch to replace it, plus the brakes, BUT since I'm under budget. 

I like the idea of a spacious stock trailer. But are they harder on horses because they can't lean on anything? 

Another hauling question. 
I've been told to tie up the horses while hauling and to keep them free ... One person said they had a horse fall and had an injury from the lead rope. Another said they had a horse fall while not tied and had an injury from other horses ... both people used these experiences to make sure I don't/do tie them while hauling. 

What is better?


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

KBA6 said:


> Hey - that tarp idea is exactly what we've been doing! Great minds, huh! lol
> I think having a trailer is the key. Imma gonna work on it everyday!! lol
> Seriously, it's a life goal at this point. He's 20 ... he will master this!


You got this! :thumbsup: They're never too old.



KBA6 said:


> I like the suggestion that a stock trailer could serve multiple purposes as far as hauling hay, etc.


Slant loads can too. We used my slant load horse trailer when we moved to our current house. I just swept it out really good and tied all the dividers back on the wall. 

So it would just be a matter of personal preference if you want a stock trailer or a slant load.

**Note, you can (and should!) teach a horse to back out of a stock trailer too. It's just a good skill no matter what.




KBA6 said:


> It doesn't have brakes ... but my husband is pretty handy and does all of our auto work.
> Is this something that is easy to install?
> I have a break box in the truck, so how much does that usually cost to add to a trailer?


I am NOT a mechanic so I have no clue, LOL. If your hubby is handy, would be best to ask him. Or else ask a mechanic.



KBA6 said:


> I like the idea of a spacious stock trailer. But are they harder on horses because they can't lean on anything?


Nope, just different traveling styles. 

If left loose in a stock trailer, most horses will turn around and ride backwards. They can still lean on each other and/or lean on the walls if they need to. 



KBA6 said:


> Another hauling question.
> I've been told to tie up the horses while hauling and to keep them free ... One person said they had a horse fall and had an injury from the lead rope. Another said they had a horse fall while not tied and had an injury from other horses ... both people used these experiences to make sure I don't/do tie them while hauling.
> 
> What is better?


It depends on your horses and your trailer and your personal preferences.

Usually, if I haul horses in a stock trailer, I do NOT tie them. I leave them loose so they can choose to stand how they want. 

Usually, in a slant load, I do like to tie the horses so that they cannot get their head under or over the divider. However, both of my horses are very experienced haulers and haul well. I haven't tied Red in the trailer for the past 2 years. He seems to do better if he can put his head down and clear his airways. I'll probably stop tying Shotgun this year too b/c he also hauls well. Then he will also have the freedom to lower his head.

(So obviously if you tie a horse in the trailer, they can't lower their head.)

But if I do tie, I am using breakaway ties in my trailer. If I were to get into an accident, I don't want them "hung" there if they fall down. I have ties similar to this. They are velcro so they would just pull apart and I would still have a small lead attached to the horse's halter, for safety purposes. 

Plus, there is a panic snap that I attach the to window side of the trailer (NOT to the horse) so in case I would need to get a horse loose in a hurry, I can do so through the window and not have to try to do it on a panicking horse.

Personally, I think if you are going to tie a horse in a trailer, you should NOT be tying with unbreakable materials. The rest of the time, I want my horses tied fast and hard with something unbreakable --- but not in a trailer, just in case we get into a wreck.

And if you do choose to tie your horse in the trailer, do NOT tie them until the back door is closed. It is possible that horses can panic and you don't want them to drop a back foot off the back of the trailer while their head is still tied up. That is a disaster waiting to happen. On that same token, make sure you UNTIE them before you open the back door, for the same reason. Safety first!!


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

KBA6 said:


> Getting back to trailers:
> I found one that looks like it will suit my needs, however, it is an older but 1k under budget. Looks clean and well kept.
> It is a gooseneck stock trailer, aluminum floor, 12 foot long, escape door, cut gate (partition 8ft in front, 4ft in back), new tires.
> 
> ...


To start...
Better make very sure of the trailer inside height...you should have a minimum of 6'6", preferably 7' or higher though is best. 
As an example, ..My horses are 15.2+ and my one guy {OTTB} has learned to lower his head or his ear tips touch as he steps up and in my trailer. My trailer is 7'3" _inside_ height.
I would *not* purchase a horse trailer today under 7' tall_ inside_ height.

Be very careful of that length too.
12' overall length and divided to 8' is _not_ that long for a horse when you measure tip of nose to end of tail and add a few inches for wiggle room. My 15.3 OTTB *would not* fit in that front compartment 8' space comfortably. :|
This sounds more like a cattle trailer set-up...:think:
Also be very careful of the width of that trailer inside dimension if you might need to turn the horse around for a few rides while working your issue.

The fact it doesn't have brakes makes me very leery....
Sounds fishy...or very old or possibly homemade.
I don't know of any stock trailers that don't have at least brakes on one axle.
In near every state if over 2000 pounds law is you* must *have trailer brakes...you will be very near that limit with trailer and horse. Some states laws are a lower weight and a few are higher...but I would not own a trailer for livestock of any kind without working brakes on the trailer, _*period.*_
Husband handy or not, you may be looking at having to put different axles under the trailer if it doesn't have clearance nor designed for axle with brakes...that can be very expensive.
How old is this trailer?
Can you share a picture? That would help immensely to see if you have stumbled across a find or if you need to run and hide from this one, honest...

As for tying or not...
I tie, period.
I also use quick-release trailer ties for that purpose. https://www.statelinetack.com/item/nylon-trailer-tie/SLT310272/
One of my trailers is a 4 horse semi-stock so I can do dedicated straight stalls in front with a divider or I can remove it and let the horse decide to travel straight or angled.
My own horses when left to choose choose nearly perfectly straight facing forward, different from beau's horses.
I can see my horses through the front window when traveling...my horses stand facing forward, even when I tried hauling them loose, they chose near perfectly straight ahead stances.. 
They were able to align their body however they want. Each animal is a individual, we do what we think best to keep them safest.
Some swear their horses prefer slant traveling, some backward... :shrug:

_Accidents do happen._
Sudden hard braking, abrupt defensive maneuvers to avoid accidents, ....to fast taking a turn, stop or start are all recipes for disaster.
When you think about it...
Our horses stand on 4 spindles that hold up enormous weight and require a great balancing system and equilibrium.
How we drive, what we drive and tow with, the kinds of roads we travel will all have a impact on the horse and how they arrive at their destination..

I actually went looking for horse trailers of this length...
I can find nothing in a 12' _stock trailer_ for horses or livestock new or used. 16' is the smallest I see in stock trailers. 
Below is a link to a site that handles new, used horse and livestock trailers.
They have a large inventory of brands and prices...some things to look at for ideas, pricing and as a resource since they also have links to all the trailer brands and informative information easily found on their home page. _
https://www.dhmco.com/_
Good luck in your search.

:runninghorse2:....
_jmo..._


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

KBA6 said:


> It doesn't have brakes ... but my husband is pretty handy and does all of our auto work. Is this something that is easy to install?


No. In fact, unless your husband is a magician, brakes might be nearly impossible to install. The wiring alone would be a headache, and you and your passenger's and your horse's life could depend on getting it right. This whole trailer sounds really fishy to me -- it's a gooseneck, but it 's only 12' long? 

To me, a stock trailer with no brakes suggests one of three possibilities:


It is prehistoric, perhaps having been hauled here on the Mayflower, and therefore belongs in a museum
It is somebody's homemade project, and might catch on fire while you are inspecting it.
It had brakes at one time and they were removed because that was easier than dealing with the fact that they were rusted into a solid mass. Which indicates that some previous owner liked to take extreme shortcuts on maintenance. Which suggests the possibility that the whole thing could disassemble itself on the highway as you pull it home.

Sorry, I think you might need to keep looking.


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## ObiWan (Jul 7, 2017)

Joel Reiter said:


> No. In fact, unless your husband is a magician, brakes might be nearly impossible to install. The wiring alone would be a headache


That's an exaggeration. Any half-decent amateur mechanic can add brakes to a trailer. I've done it on my utility trailer. It was simple, and only cost a few hundred dollars for high-end parts. If your husband can replace wheel bearings and wire auxiliary lighting, then he can install trailer brakes. Just point him to http://www.etrailer.com for all the parts and instructions.

In fact, the horse trailer I'm looking at buying this week looks like it has brakes behind the wheels, but it only has a 4-wire plug, so something obviously got unhooked by a previous owner. Fixing that doesn't scare me; I just need to see it in person to figure out how much it'll cost to repair.


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

Buy a trailer that already has the brakes installed and make sure they work. Sometimes it's easy to replace brakes-- sometimes it's not. Just make it easier on yourself and buy one with everything working from the start. In most areas, it's not even legal to tow a dual-axle trailer without electric brakes, so bear that in mind. Working brakes and all lights functioning is a good sign the trailer has been decently maintained. 



Unless your budget is rock-bottom, you can find a good used trailer with everything you need, including good, working brakes. If a stock trailer has an aluminum floor, you MUST have mats. They're a good idea on a wood floor, too, but a lot of people haul with just the bare floor and do fine. Make sure the floor is flat, too, and that it doesn't have sharp ridges for traction-- both common in stock trailers made for hogs, but really not suitable for horses. A cut gate is useless in a horse trailer -- that 4' space in the back isn't big enough to put an animal in, and if you use that for tack, etc. you have to take everything out to unload your horses. Look for something made for horses-- commonly termed a 'stock combo' trailer if you want to stick with a stock. I'd suggest going to some trailer sales places-- look at the new trailers and see what features you like even if you don't intend to buy new. Look at the big trailers far outside your price range and the smaller ones, too. Then you'll have a much better idea of what to look for in a used trailer. 

For 3 horses in a stock trailer, you want at least 16' in the tow area. That allows you to haul three at a slant with some room for them to move about, or four if they're small and get along. You will want a tack room in the front. A gooseneck allows space for this and you can throw a mattress up over the neck if you decide to overnight somewhere. I currently have a bumper pull trailer, but I prefer to haul with a gooseneck-- they're more stable, resale is better, and you have a tighter turning radius. Horses seem to haul better in them, too. A BP trailer is fine if most of your trips are under an hour or so. If you haul longer distances regularly, the extra investment into a gooseneck is well worth it, particularly if you already have the truck. Your dually truck with a good gooseneck is a safe, stable rig.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

ObiWan said:


> That's an exaggeration. Any half-decent amateur mechanic can add brakes to a trailer. I've done it on my utility trailer. It was simple, and only cost a few hundred dollars for high-end parts. If your husband can replace wheel bearings and wire auxiliary lighting, then he can install trailer brakes. Just point him to http://www.etrailer.com for all the parts and instructions.


Interesting. I'd like to see how things worked out with your trailer, maybe you could get me to retract my post. I agree that etrailer.com is a great source for all kinds of things related to towing, and their how-to videos are first rate. I used one of their kits to wire my pickup for a brake controller.


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## ObiWan (Jul 7, 2017)

Joel Reiter said:


> Interesting. I'd like to see how things worked out with your trailer, maybe you could get me to retract my post.


We're starting to get off into the weeds here relative to the original post. But in summary, my 6x12' utility trailer originally came with mobile home axles & wheels. The axles are good 5200-lb units, but the hubs & wheels are junk because they're not designed for extended use. I tore off everything down to the spindles, then bought new brakes & drums that matched the spindle shape from etrailer.com. There was no wiring on the trailer, so I added that from scratch using a 7-wire plug and LED lights that I also got from etrailer.com. I use a Tekonsha P3 brake controller in our 2001 Chevy Tahoe to pull the trailer. The hardest part of the project was drilling all the holes for the wiring retainers through the channel iron frame. It really is no different than replacing wheel bearings or wiring auxiliary lights on a car.

The empty trailer weighs 1700 lbs, and I routinely put 2 yards (5000 lbs) of gravel in it with no problems.


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## Joel Reiter (Feb 9, 2015)

Very nice. I use the same brake controller. People buying new pickups, properly optioned, have the advantage of factory brake controllers with all the sanitary factory wiring, connections through the firewall properly sealed, and out of reach of an errant knee.


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## 4horses (Nov 26, 2012)

A couple suggestions: horses don't back out because they fear the step down. Start with a curb on the side of the road and practice backing down a step. Or back him over ground poles. My Paso is the same way, but he will back out if i help him. I tried leaving him in there to figure it out, and he never got out. The minute I opened the front hatch and stepped inside, he backed right out for me. He thought if he didn't see me, that must mean he has to wait. He gets very nervous about backing out but he will do it and then sighs with relief once he is out. I give him plenty of time to look behind him so he can find the edge.

The fear of backing down a step is a very very common issue. Do not assume it is impossible to teach him better. 

If your horses do not self load, it is time to teach them to do so. Entering a trailer should be avoided at all costs. It is way too dangerous to enter with the horse. Even my Paso will self load. It takes time, but it is well worth the effort for your safety. I will have to try letting the Paso unload by himself again...it is time he learned to back out without my help. I think, i hope, he has enough experience that he should be ready.


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## JohnyWalter (Apr 27, 2018)

"Tekonsha P3 brake controller"
Ye its good one!
I Love this _brake controller_. I've been messing around with cheaper units including some by Tekonsha, this one is worth the extra cost hands down. Wish I had found it sooner. Very smooth application of brakes, no jerking of the trailer/truck (I use it for horse trailers so this is very important). I love the ability to one-button change the "boost" settings (really ideal for horse trailers as the weight of the trailer changes considerably between empty, one horse, and two horses). Feedback display warns you right away when something is wrong and shows how much brake is being applied.


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