# What are your Best money saving innovations?



## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

Okay so,

I've got my own property and I need to make it horse worthy! I want to know everything- 

is it worth it to hire a company to dig a well, or dig one yourself? What problems have you encountered? 

How did you construct your run-in shelter? Were there problems down the road with any materials or construction you used? 

Did you use a physical barrier fence, like wood or piping, or did you go with electric? A combination? What stands the test of time, and is the least expensive overall? 

Do you store your feed and hay close to where you'll be feeding, or have it somewhat removed (for safety)? Is it a royal pain to move it? 

What do you wish you had done differently? What are things that would really improve your current situation? 

Thanks! Just looking for any and all good quality ideas/money saving/time saving/ SAFE innovations


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## quinn (Nov 8, 2013)

Hi!

How exciting! 

I'll offer my thoughts 

Hire someone to dig a well - much safer and worth it in the long run.

There are lots of ways to make a run in - I've seen some people make a SMALL run-in / barn out of wood pallets! (not recommended by me). Just make sure you anchor it well and ensure that the opening doesn't face into the wind the majority of the time.

Fence ... I think cow panels stand up well with electric fence. It's an easy way to go. I love the look of wood fence, but with painting all the time, and the initial work to put it in...I don't know that it is a cheap or easy way to go. I think the easiest and cheapest fence I've seen was capped off tposts with multiple strands of the white electrical strands. 

Feeding: Grains, supplements, etc. stored near the feeding area (inside) along with a good amount of square hay bales - it's just easier that way. I've seen people store hay both ways, so I think it just comes down to space and preference - and whether or not you use square or round bales.

Best idea so far - gutters running into a water tank! 

I try to keep in mind something I've always been told, "If it's worth doing at all, it's worth doing right." However, I've always got an eye out for time and money savers too, so I'm excited to see what everyone else says!


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## Roperchick (Feb 1, 2010)

disastercupcake said:


> Okay so,
> 
> I've got my own property and I need to make it horse worthy! I want to know everything-
> 
> ...


Good luck!


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

Thanks! Lots of good info

How did you construct your stalls? I was also thinking about the drainage problem- I think that a little backfill and those rubber stabilizer matts (meant for landscaping) underneath will really help keep the barn, stalls and feed areas stay dry. 

Are your stalls dirt floor? If so, did you use a free standing stall structure, only attached to the barn walls, or anchor in the ground as well?


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## Roperchick (Feb 1, 2010)

6 stalls 14x14. 

half is covered with a slant roof and a divider in between. they're just dirt floor we didn't have the $$ to try and put mats down so we end up having to get a bobcat every year to dig the stalls out bare, lay down more sand and repeat lol.

we do have big rubber mats (old belts from the power plant" in front of the stalls and those stay nice and dry and clean just the stalls are bad.
what they really need is a gutter or some such so the water can pour out of the stalls. as they are now the pipes just lay on top of the dirt, and the stall areas are in somewhat of a depression so the water has nowhere to escape









(sorry its the only picture i have online of the stalls)


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

quinn said:


> Hi!
> 
> How exciting!
> 
> ...


Thanks for your thoughts  

The water tank idea is pretty good! I would just need to ensure that any run-off had a good escape route, and wouldn't flood the pen or anything important.. could always cut a small drainage trench to the ditch lol 

Yes I have also come to the conclusion that the electric wire is cheapest... However I also want to construct a riding arena at some point. It probably won't be the best, and I'll also probably end up using it as a turn-out as well =/ Any ideas on what type of grass people most like for their arenas? I don't want to do sand- it's too expensive and too much up keep. Thinking about using that plastic strapping for the arena. Any experience with that? 

For my barn/run in (haven't decided if I want an all-in-one or not) I am thinking about getting one of those metal carports, and then customize it. The metal is supposed to be rated for snow in Michigan, and I think it would end up cheaper than a small pole barn type structure or a separate run in plus small barn.


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

Roperchick said:


> 6 stalls 14x14.
> 
> half is covered with a slant roof and a divider in between. they're just dirt floor we didn't have the $$ to try and put mats down so we end up having to get a bobcat every year to dig the stalls out bare, lay down more sand and repeat lol.
> 
> ...


The piping is a pretty good idea  

Are the mats really that expensive? I was browsing through a farm mag and saw some rolls for only about 2$ sq foot... they probably would cost a fortune to deliver though -.-

Gutters would def help, especially in combination with the water trough idea


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

Around here, you can't dig a well for yourself for a water supply to be plumbed to your house. It has to be drilled by a certified water well company, inspected, all wiring, pumps, installations has to be done by certified technicians and water tested.
I don't know the laws in your area, but don't skimp on water safety, reason why we have these laws here.


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

waresbear said:


> Around here, you can't dig a well for yourself for a water supply to be plumbed to your house. It has to be drilled by a certified water well company, inspected, all wiring, pumps, installations has to be done by certified technicians and water tested.
> I don't know the laws in your area, but don't skimp on water safety, reason why we have these laws here.


Oh, yes, I'm well aware of that, but that is water for human consumption, and for a dwelling of any kind. 

I'm talking just a shallow well for animal use; bathing, water trough, that kind of thing. The water table is pretty high here, it'd only really have to be about 20 feet deep, but I may as well get someone to dig a 50 ft if I'm even going to do that lol.


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

If you already have a well, the best way (and it's not expensive) it to run a tee off your main line and have it go over to where you want the water for your horses. Put in a hydrant, that way it won't freeze and you have water all year.


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## Roperchick (Feb 1, 2010)

disastercupcake said:


> The piping is a pretty good idea
> 
> Are the mats really that expensive? I was browsing through a farm mag and saw some rolls for only about 2$ sq foot... they probably would cost a fortune to deliver though -.-
> 
> Gutters would def help, especially in combination with the water trough idea


i love my pipe stalls haha. thankfully the guy buying our property in NM (place where the stalls in the pic are) doesnt want them so it may take a year but where hauling them piece by piece to TX.

theyre not too terribly expensive no, but we had just spent lots on panels for the arena, roundpen, stalls, and new irrigation pipes for the hay field so any $$ was out of option lol. we didnt even get the mats in front of the stalls till 2 years later.

i love the water trough idea. definitely a smart move there.


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## Chasin Ponies (Dec 25, 2013)

When you install the roof on your shed or barn, I would suggest putting in some of those translucent panels that allow light to come in. If our BO had done that we wouldn't have to have the lights on (even during the day!).
Mats are a great investment and last a long time. Be sure to build the stalls first and then put the mats in afterwards. I know is sounds stupid (and it is!) our BO laid the mats down and then put the stalls on top of them-now the are permanently warped up 6-12" from the horses walking on them and they cannot be removed without cutting them out!!
If you do any concrete, make sure it is rough finished not smooth so that horses/people don't slip. Our BO did all of these things wrong plus many, many more!


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## Cacowgirl (Feb 19, 2011)

Good luck on the water well-around here wells are 800-900' deep & no guarantee you'll get water. So hauling in our water is another chore-we just put the horse water tank on solar power-Yay! I have rubber mats in my horse pens-it helps so much-they are only under the covered part, but I know they have an area to get out of the mud-if it should ever rain.


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## quinn (Nov 8, 2013)

I love some of these ideas! 

I think the carport idea is very nifty :]

I haven't had any experience with grass areas, sorry. If you use it enough, wouldn't it just turn to dirt though?


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## greentree (Feb 27, 2013)

I have grass in my "arena", since it is the normal surface to drive on. My area is big(but not even regulation driving arena size) about 35m X 95m. My soil is fairly clay-ey, so it gets slick. I seeded fescue on it, and got a fair germination. I use a small manure spreader to spread stuff out of the stalls, and eventually I will have a nice loamy footing there that the grass will grow in. 

The only place the grass doesn't grow now is where I do a LOT of circles. 

I put 9 standing stalls in my barn, and 6 box stalls. I am so glad I did standing stalls, the box stalls are TOO much work, and shavings are TOO expensive!

Nancy


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

For hay storage we purchased two portable tarp covered garages (12x20'). With a tarp on the ground and a layer of pallets on top, I can stack about 400 square bales between the two shelters. They have zip fronts and a metal frame structure, so they allow for good air movement around the hay and keep out pretty much all weather. I have had bales in one for over a year, through all 4 seasons, and no spoilage at all.

We use electric rope fencing and love it. It was inexpensive, and easy to install. I also keep around 30 or so step in plastic posts that I use for cross fencing or to mark off an "arena" space.

Depending on where you live, you may get away with simple run-in sheds for shelters. That is all we had for over 3 years until we built our barn, and temperatures here are extreme, ranging from +30C in the summer to -40C in the winter. We get rain, snow, sleet, hail, snail and everything in between those temperatures throughout the year.


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

Koolio said:


> For hay storage we purchased two portable tarp covered garages (12x20'). With a tarp on the ground and a layer of pallets on top, I can stack about 400 square bales between the two shelters. They have zip fronts and a metal frame structure, so they allow for good air movement around the hay and keep out pretty much all weather. I have had bales in one for over a year, through all 4 seasons, and no spoilage at all.
> 
> We use electric rope fencing and love it. It was inexpensive, and easy to install. I also keep around 30 or so step in plastic posts that I use for cross fencing or to mark off an "arena" space.
> 
> Depending on where you live, you may get away with simple run-in sheds for shelters. That is all we had for over 3 years until we built our barn, and temperatures here are extreme, ranging from +30C in the summer to -40C in the winter. We get rain, snow, sleet, hail, snail and everything in between those temperatures throughout the year.


I was also thinking about the 'garage in a box' thing for hay- its better than tarping, and you're right, there's always plenty of circulation! 

Yes we have the entire spectrum of weather here in Michigan as well. It's usually -25F to 35F within the same week  I spend a lot of time blanketing, unblanketing, bringing horses in the middle of blizzards  We only have a run-in and one stall currently. We really haven't had need of anything more.


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

greentree said:


> I have grass in my "arena", since it is the normal surface to drive on. My area is big(but not even regulation driving arena size) about 35m X 95m. My soil is fairly clay-ey, so it gets slick. I seeded fescue on it, and got a fair germination. I use a small manure spreader to spread stuff out of the stalls, and eventually I will have a nice loamy footing there that the grass will grow in.
> 
> The only place the grass doesn't grow now is where I do a LOT of circles.
> 
> ...


Do you mow your arena? 

What do you mean by standing stalls? Are they constructed different, or smaller than box stalls?


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## flyingewe (Jan 18, 2014)

I would check with the locals as to what grass to put in. They will know what grows best in your area. I use a pasture mix of timothy, birdsfoot trefoil and red clover. But I use my arena as pasture too. I stay away from fescue as it can disease and cause illness, but it is also very tough and if you are riding on it a lot, it might be good for that. As I said, I use my grass mix as pasture and the volunteer fescue is too tough for my sheep to eat. A local seed company or just a local farmer or three can give you some good advice as to what's worth growing. 

Yes, put gutters on your roof line and collect water. You can use it for all sorts of things including drinking. We collect it on both our house and the barn. Its completely soft and makes your hair lovely!


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

Cupcake.. Hire the well to be dug. I have pens made of used oil field pipe, and hot wires.
My arena is currently portable panels. panels break and rust apart. hot wire , its been replaced a few times, horse tore it down, had some field fencing up, the big horses pawed it down . Spent a lot of money and time into fencing. Figure out what you want, and fence it the first time and not have to keep repairing or replacing fencing.
Also, before you run pipe to the corrals/pasture etc, stake off the area, mark it really well, they sell the paint to do this , try doing this in more than one location and see which fits you best. 
Are you using hay bales or cubes ? for your hay shed you want it somewhat close, you want room for a truck.trailer.retreiver to be able to access it without difficulty. If your delivery truck cannot get in and out to deliver hay /cubes you will always have a hassle.


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

Great advice- I am actually having trouble planning the access part. My property has only one usable driveway and there are a lot of trees in a row right up to the point where I want the barn  Thinking I will have to cut down some trees for this to work out. PLUS the ditch is right in the tree line D;

Has anyone any experience with stalls that face outside? Traditional stalls open to the inside of the barn.. I may yet decide to have doors on both sides, but my small barn probably will not have enough room for both stalls and an aisle way down the whole center. Will have to think about that some more.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Cupcake, are you wanting to spend a hundred thousand or 10 thousand? Will this be a boarding place or just for your own? How many horses? If your wish is to board then you will spend much more than if just for a couple of your own personal horses. Either way, you need a good supply of fresh water. A pond or holding tank becomes stagnant within days in the hot summer sun. If we knew your intentions and number of horses we could probably offer better info to suit your needs.


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## cjaccardi (Feb 7, 2014)

some great advice on this thread !


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

I am personally planning on these facilities for 3-4 horses. More towards 3, but you never know  I do not intend to board but I do intend to use as a training grounds of sorts. 

My property is 9 acres total, and 7 of that is bare field right now. The other 2 is where the house is, and there are some trees on the property as well. 

I currently have a 50x30 older barn- hip roofed and all cedar. I expect that to be my main hay storage/grain storage/ tack area. Unfortunately the ceilings are only about 7.5' or 8' tall... I don't want to put stalls in it.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

The ceiling height is fine unless you plan on 18hh horses. Because of the risk of fire, I would never have horses locked up in the same building where hay is stored. I've seen a few barn fires. They burn hot and and be seen for miles at night. If horses are to be locked in stalls I'd want it a good hundred feet away or more. After I saw the second fire I am unable to put a horse somewhere that it can't escape.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

I have property that is similar to what you describe. We are on 8 acres, most of which was an open hay field with a house and a yard. We keep 3-4 horses on our property depending on whether or not we have a horse or two out boarding. There wasn't even one fence post when we moved here, so we set our place up for horses from scratch. Here is a summary of what we did.

Year 1 - we fenced our main pasture (about 3.5 - 4 acres) with wood posts and 4 strand electric rope fence. The fence runs about 15' on the inside of our property so that a hay truck can drive around the entire pasture. We mow this space and use it for riding. We used 1x10' metal gate for access to the field and purchased two 8'x16' run in sheds and placed one in the pasture and one out. I have a solar LED light mounted to my main shed so I can check the horses at night. The first year, we stored hay in the second shed. For water, we purchased a good 100 gal stock tank with water heater and extension cord that reached the house. My daughter and I used a flat spot in the field as a riding arena, but marked it off with portable electric step in posts and a strand of rope.

Year 2 - I purchased a portable 50' round pen made of 6'x10' galvanized steel panels. This became our training space. We also fenced the second half of our property (about 3 more acres) and out in two more gates so we could drive through the fence end to end. In the fall, I bought 2 12'x20' portable garages for hay storage. As I'm said before, I can keep about 400 60lb square bales dry for the winter. We also got a second water tank and heater.

Year 3 - we had a 36x36 metal pole barn built by a company and finished it ourselves. The barn has 2 10x10' doors so we can get a hay truck or pull a horse trailer all the way through it. We put up a 7' kick wall and layed 2x10's down for flooring in the tack room and two stalls. The tack room is fully 12x12 as are the two stalls. One third of the building is left open for equipment storage or future stalls (I could put in 2 more). We purchased heavy duty stall kits made of steel and put in the wood panels ourselves. I am so glad we went with the heavier stall panels as they are secure enough to tie a horse to and the hardware moves nicely. I also put heavy duty rubber stall mats down in the center over the dirt / gravel floor for easier cleanup and better traction. This summer we plan too out down rubber tile pavers. Plexi wall lights let in a lot of light, but don't keep in any heat. We also had a separate electrical panel put in the barn and have adequate service to run a welder if needed. A friend got us high efficiency, cold weather fluorescent lights that are fantastic. Outside, we have a motion sensored LED yard light as well. 

Or setup works very well for 4 horses and didn't cost us a fortune. The only thing I don't have is a water line to the barn for an automatic waterer or wash stall. We ride on the grass, but our neighbour put in a small sand arena. They have to keep it harrowed every week and are continually fighting the weeds. In the won't, it gets very icy so they don't use it. Having two paddocks also gives us a riding space and a way to rotate the fields or separate horses. I predictably use temporary step-in posts and the electric rope to cross fence as well.

If you want pictures to see how it turned out, just let me know. I think it looks good and it is very functional.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

I also liked the idea of stalls opening to the outside of the barn, but decided against it because I didn't want the horses to be able to rub and chew on the bulding and stalls opening to the outside meant huge heat loss. Our fence separates the barn from the paddocks. Like Saddlebag suggested, we'd not keep hay anywhere near the barn to prevent any risk of fire. The horses really only go inside if it is really cold (-40), for grooming and tacking up, for vet work or if they are sick. They are very happy to spend their time outside with the shelters.


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

Koolio- thanks! Great description of your set up 

I am as yet uncertain whether or not to compromise the barn for a large run-in type situation with temporary stalls as I really don't use stalls but would like one or two for emergencies. I just can't imagine using a stall all that much. Right now all my horses are outside with a run-in. They've all come inside for a whopping 3 days, when it was icy blizzardy and about -40. Otherwise, they don't even want to come in. 

So, my real question is to make a permanent stall in my barn or have the extra panels/temporary stall materials handy for a quick stall set up in the large run-in. Or, just have the permanent stall in the run in and use it for storage when its not a 'stall'. 

The other reasons I don't really want to put a stall in by bigger barn is that 1) it is concrete floored, and 2) it's across the lawn to the pasture. I'd be muckin' up my yard every time I put a horse in it =/


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

My parents have 3 permanent stalls, they've turned into 3 permanent storage areas....One has hay in it, one has horsey related gear and grain in it and the last has a mix of fencing and yard tools in it.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

How about purchasing some sturdy panels that you can use as a stall inside your existing barn?

While I don't use my stalls often, I do use them and it is so nice to have a secure place to put a horse when I need to. I'm also glad I can get the horses completely out of the wind and elements when I need to. I suspect we will use the stalls more in the summer as a relief from the mosquitoes. A run-in stall wouldn't work for that.


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

Koolio said:


> How about purchasing some sturdy panels that you can use as a stall inside your existing barn?
> 
> While I don't use my stalls often, I do use them and it is so nice to have a secure place to put a horse when I need to. I'm also glad I can get the horses completely out of the wind and elements when I need to. I suspect we will use the stalls more in the summer as a relief from the mosquitoes. A run-in stall wouldn't work for that.


Sure panels can be used for temporary stalls if one is needed.

I have to ask though, why would you take the horses out of the wind and elements if they want to be in them? Give them a run in to use "if" they want and let it be. I've watched our horses over the years and the only ones I see seeking shelter in bad weather are those horses who have spent a good deal of their life sheltered. Those who have spent their life out in the elements more often than not spurn shelter when it's available to them. I might call them stupid for standing outside in freezing rain when shelter is available to them but that's their choice and where they are more comfortable.


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## Rawhide (Nov 11, 2011)

disastercupcake said:


> Yes we have the entire spectrum of weather here in Michigan as well. It's usually -25F to 35F within the same week  I spend a lot of time blanketing, unblanketing, bringing horses in the middle of blizzards  We only have a run-in and one stall currently. We really haven't had need of anything more.



Experts believe there are more than or close to 1 million abandoned wells in state of Michigan. As to why I don't know but I would have water tested even for animal consumption. Just a thought. 


 https://www.google.com/#q=why+are+there+so+many+abandoned+wells+in+michigan​


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

Darrin - most of the time our horses use the run in and seek what they need for shelter on their own. We have had a few instances however where we have had freezing rain followed by temperatures dropping down into the -40's with wind added on top of that. At -40 it is very difficult to get a wet horse warm and dry without getting them out of the elements at least for a little while. Once the horses are dry, they go back out. I also have one mare who has a very thin, fine coat and struggles to stay warm and keep weight on. We have had her in maybe twice this year when it's -45 plus wind chill. The fully enclosed walls makes the difference between her shivering so badly she cannot chew her food and being able to munch quietly and relax.

In the summer, the Mosquitos can get so bad that the horses will run all night long. By morning, they are exhausted. We blanket, spray and smudge as much as we can, but they still welcome the relief of a few hours inside without getting eaten alive.


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

Rawhide said:


> Experts believe there are more than or close to 1 million abandoned wells in state of Michigan. As to why I don't know but I would have water tested even for animal consumption. Just a thought.
> 
> 
>  https://www.google.com/#q=why+are+there+so+many+abandoned+wells+in+michigan​


Michigan has the great fortune of having a ready supply of water almost anywhere. Minnesota is called the Land of 10,000 Lakes, but Michigan has way more; we just don't brag about it lol. There's a source of fresh water within 2 miles of any point in Michigan. We have the most lakes of any state, except Alaska. 

So, our wells aren't very deep. The water table in most of Michigan is very shallow- something like 0-20 feet. There are tons of abandoned wells because they're easy to dig. Back in the day, people would settle in for a bit, dig a well, farm the land, and decide to move their well, or whatever. It was just really easy to do.


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## gunslinger (Sep 17, 2011)

Horses and money savings used in the same sentence?

That's kind of like "military" and "intelligence" or "government" and savings....

There is nothing about horses that saves me money.......just saying...


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

gunslinger said:


> Horses and money savings used in the same sentence?
> 
> That's kind of like "military" and "intelligence" or "government" and savings....
> 
> There is nothing about horses that saves me money.......just saying...


WRONG: You save money with horses by not buying any to begin with!


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## BadWolf (Oct 12, 2012)

These are some of the ways we save money with our horses:

1.) We built our run-in out of old pallet wood and the metal roof came from a chicken house that some family friends were taking down. It's 8ft x 16ft. It may not be pretty, but it was free.

2.) We're in the process of building a round pen (finally!) out of junk tires - labor intensive in the beginning, but free. I think there's a tax when car shops have to take tires to the dump, so they're pretty pleased to get rid of them without having to pay.

3.) We positioned our stock tank so we could catch rain water from the roof of our big garage/shop, and in almost 2 years we've only had to haul water in once - the day we filled the tank. We use a koi pond fountain to keep the water circulating, and the tank actually overflows on a regular basis, so it doesn't get stagnant. 

4.) We learned how to give our own vaccinations. We buy them from the feed store and give them ourselves, saving on the cost of every shot, the facility fee for hauling them all to the vet, or the farm call for bringing the vet to us. We also studied up a lot on animal first aid and keep a fully stocked med kit, so we don't have to call the vet for every little scrape.

5.) We do a lot of trading to get our smaller supplies - polo wraps for bits, a girth for fly masks, or whatever needs to be shuffled around. Those little expenses add up quickly. I know some people who will trade items/livestock/service for their horses' training, farrier, and dental, but I've never personally managed that myself.


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

I knew someone who used tires to make a round pen and here's a tip. Cap the top tire to prevent water from running in, he had a mosquito breeding program going on in those tires.


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

Darrin said:


> I knew someone who used tires to make a round pen and here's a tip. Cap the top tire to prevent water from running in, he had a mosquito breeding program going on in those tires.


Very interesting! Definitely no shortage of tires around here either. 

How exactly do you construct the arena with them?


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## Zexious (Aug 2, 2013)

Koolio--I've noticed that horses will pick food over shelter every time. So, when I board somewhere, I like to make sure they get fed /inside/ whatever form of shelter they have xD


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

Zexious said:


> Koolio--I've noticed that horses will pick food over shelter every time. So, when I board somewhere, I like to make sure they get fed /inside/ whatever form of shelter they have xD


If the weather is bad enough, my horses will refuse to come out of their run-in for their meal. 

It doesn't happen that often, but it does happen


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

You can free stack them, interlacing the tiers but this can be knocked down. Another way is to put post in the ground to the height you want and stack that way, should also interlace them.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## quinn (Nov 8, 2013)

How many tires do you need? I suppose this depends on the size of the pen, height, and tire size, but as there is an auto salvage business in the family, I'm intrigued! Pics?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## MN Tigerstripes (Feb 20, 2009)

I didn't read the whole thread, so maybe some of these have already been stated, BUT here goes. 

If I were to design my own property I would have a set up with a long paddock/sacrifice area. There would be a lean to, water trough, and a special made round bale feeder in that paddock, all of the essentials basically. In the lean-to shed would be hay storage and an area where I could set up stalls in case of injury, the area the horses had access to would be deep and wide to allow for snotty horses. :lol:

Some sort of grading is essential, esp in Michigan with the spring mud. 

I prefer to keep my tack in the garage/house for temperature/humidity regulation.

Off of that paddock/sacrifice area I would have 3-4 pastures that had gates into the paddock. That way I could easily rotate and not have to worry about horses going without shelter in the worst of weather. 

Something I already have is a special made round bale feeder with a roof, floor, and 4 half walls. This saves a good amount of hay. Add in a slow feeder net and I save even more, along with making feeding simple if I am not there for whatever reason. 

Frost free pump that is right next the trough, minimal hoses are best in the winter especially. 

My goal with horse keeping is to make it as absolutely simple as possible, if I am unable to care for them I want it to be darn near foolproof and I don't want to worry about weather and shelter when I am at work or out of town.

We have a solar fencer with electric tape for both the paddock and the pasture. The worst things about my property are the drainage in the paddock, shelter in the pasture, water in the pasture (2 hoses), and a lean to that is a bit too small if one of the horses (Soda) is in a snit. 

Mostly importantly, if you want to save money don't over horse your property.


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## disastercupcake (Nov 24, 2012)

MN Tigerstripes said:


> I didn't read the whole thread, so maybe some of these have already been stated, BUT here goes.
> 
> If I were to design my own property I would have a set up with a long paddock/sacrifice area. There would be a lean to, water trough, and a special made round bale feeder in that paddock, all of the essentials basically. In the lean-to shed would be hay storage and an area where I could set up stalls in case of injury, the area the horses had access to would be deep and wide to allow for snotty horses. :lol:
> 
> ...


Pretty much exactly what I'm going for, lol!

The drainage issue is definitely a big concern. It does get pretty bad around here in the spring. I'm just not sure how to manage drainage for my whole property  However I want to combat the worst areas by getting landscape matting under all the high-traffic areas like the run-in, feed area, and around the water trough. This is the type that actually goes a layer underneath the sod. 

I have a 3-pasture rotation plan in my mind, set up off the paddock area. My central paddock is about 1 acre large. I'm wondering still if that is enough for 3 horses. They don't move around too much as is in the winter, and they will have access to the pasture in summer from the paddock. But, you never know, like you say, a snotty horse could ruin it lol.


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## MN Tigerstripes (Feb 20, 2009)

That should be good sacrifice for 3 horses, it's about what mine have and part of that has always stayed grassy enough for some grazing. We had 3 on there for 10 years or so? Now for the last 10 there's been 2 on there. My one horse is a total jerkwad and he does just fine with that space. The shelter is just a bit small if he's being ultra angry. 

Mud is a disgusting problem for me too. A lot of our land is wet/swampy/soft, which has resulted in my horses having softer hooves too. If you can afford it I would grade the land away from the barn/feed/water area and then lay down a layer of gravel/rock type stuff. Basically make sure that at least one area of the sacrifice paddock is dryish and another that will be wet in the worst of spring. It'll help with their hooves and give them somewhere dry to stand in the worst of it. One of my friends had her dad make some "humps" throughout the paddock so the horses had relatively dry spots to stand in the spring, but they weren't under shelter or around the water trough so it still sucked for the horses.


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