# Electrical Considerations for new barn



## greentree (Feb 27, 2013)

How many stalls will you have? 

I saw a great idea...lay red plastic "crime scene tape" just above your pipe trench, so that you hit it first if you are digging.
Your town will have a code about how deep that trench should be.


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## SEAmom (Jan 8, 2011)

Talk to your local electrical utility for burial depth. They will be the ones to know that information. Definitely put down a "warning" tape of some sort for yourself and anyone else who might ever come in contact with it in the future. Also discuss if they have a minimum recommended clearance from the water piping - there can be a minimum. Also, make sure you bring the conduit up 18" above the ground on both sides (cap until you are using it and I would recommend a seal at the entrance to the barn for good measure - water sucks!) and lay the conduit at a slight angle away from the barn for water/drainage.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

The water line should be 8' deep to keep it well below frost. Walking within 3' or across it drives the frost down deeper. The electric needs to be 18" below the surface. Check with the utility company on recommendations for wiring the barn. Dust is the greatest enemy. We dust our homes but who thinks to hose down the interior of a barn. There are special sockets and junction boxes for barns. Have the breaker panel near an exterior door to easily access it, in case you want to shut the whole system down in a hurry. Be sure the line from the house is big enough and on big enough breakers to handle the load at the barn.


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## avjudge (Feb 1, 2011)

Saddlebag said:


> The water line should be 8' deep to keep it well below frost. Walking within 3' or across it drives the frost down deeper. The electric needs to be 18" below the surface.


8' may be necessary in Ontario, but it's serious overkill in New Jersey. I grew up with a rule of thumb of 4' in northern NH (at least when the ground is _not_ compacted), and NJ winters are a lot milder. I'd think the people to ask on that one would be local construction/plumbing guys.

I think electric burial depth is covered in the National Electrical Code. I did a web search on it a couple years ago, but so far all we've done for my sister's shed is run an extension cord across the lawn! I found a bunch of different depths discussed depending on what the cable is run through, but don't remember the details now. (OK, that didn't make for too useful a post!)

Anne


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## SEAmom (Jan 8, 2011)

Local jurisdictions can change the depth depending on the area. The authority having jurisdiction (usually a city inspector) or utility company can give you the right depth for all utilities as well as any additional information specific to the area/city/whatever.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Jayknee (Aug 8, 2013)

Ok not sure about NJ but i am a bit familiar with construction (daughter of a handyman). you're most likely going to need to run 220 from your service panel to a subpanel within the barn. from their you can run regular Romex through your metal conduit. anything less than that you wont have enough current to carry everything. if you choose to run through the flexible conduit dont forget to get the little rubber end gard's they will prevent the romex from rubbing on the sharp ends of the conduit. Also make sure that you have a heavy duty breaker on the 220 line that you run from your panel to the subpanel. The 220 line is pretty thick so your extra pipe probably won't be big enough. it takes minimum 2" and even then thats a little tight. Most states also require a minimum separation between water and power lines as the electricity can jump between the two if a short develops. 
Don't forget to get your permits! Permits are required to run electrical. They will also want to inspect the trench and wiring. for ease of digging your trench i would rent a trencher especially if you have to go deep. 
spray painting your pipe bright orange can also help with locating your pipes as well as placing warning tape 12" above your pipes. 

Good luck with your new barn! hopefully in the next year or so I will be in your shoes too.


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## mred (Jan 7, 2015)

It will all depend upon local codes. Here, if you are in the city, you will have permit, be inspected. They will tell you how deep and size of wire, panel, etc. If you don't do the work yourself, you must use a licensed electrician. We do not have inspections in the county here. But a lot of counties do. Check with your local city/county. All underground should be below the frost line. In your area, I would think at least 3 feet. The size of wire will depend on the size of the service. As well as the size of the breaker. Ground fault is a must. 
I know of one person that thought he had a friend that could do it. After work was done and the friend was paid, city had him pull everything out and have someone do it right and to code. Good luck.


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## ca4ta (Sep 4, 2011)

Thanks everyone. I only have a small shedrow barn - 3 stalls. 2 12'x12' and one tack/feed room at 12'x8'. I dont expect to have to run 220v out to the barn, but our electrician will know what is best. The electricity will also allow for water heater in the winter months. I dont plan on driving a lot of electricity out there, just the necessary for typical home barn needs. 

Our water line and electrical feed pipe is buried 3' deep from house - so I would expect that the electricity needs to be about 18" deep from feed source to the barn, when it comes above ground. 

Once I get my electrician here and work done I'll post updated photos. Lots of work is going to happen on our farm here in the next month. Years of work finally coming to fruition!


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

I'm not sure you actually got a answer about the ceiling fan idea or not...

Any fan in a barn should be a sealed motor unit to lessen the chance of dirt, debris and dust from entering and becoming a fire hazard. They cost more money to purchase but are worth every penny spent in safety...
Dust & cobwebs are some of the worst fire hazards to have so truly important to cobweb your barn, only use sealed motor fans no matter their location and get a broom and swipe everything you can reach and more to rid the place of combustibles.
If you have a hayloft...keep it clean and remove the tasty tidbits that fall off the bales. Since a hayloft is above the ceiling, it needs attention just as much as the rest of the barn as material filters between wood planks and can accumulate too.
_{Your horses will love you for the sweetest tidbits of hay you give them on cleaning day!}
_If you do ceiling fans above stalls...make very sure you have more than adequate height that the horse{s} can't touch that fan being curious or if frightened and rear...
Any lighting you do in your stalls need to have "cages" surround the fixture to protect the horse from accidentally hitting, biting onto or grabbing exploding the glass and injuring themselves. Again, there are specially made lights for horse barns for safety reasons..another thing to search and learn about.

Every county and township has ordinances and rules regarding electrical and water lines. You are told the depth they must be minimum.... can't imagine ever not going below the frost line though with ground heave that does occur with a bad winter season.
Since the terrain of Jersey is so varied there will be differences in mandatory things needing done.

I would suggest the idea of a "frost-free hydrant" in your barn, or something along that idea....
It is some extra work but I've yet to see one freeze if placed at the correct depth and in the worst of winter put pipe insulation around it and only when in the barn maybe use electrical heat tape to defrost any above ground pipe that didn't drain correctly...
Be cautious of the water pipe you pull underground to the barn as at some point most everyone is going to either have a drive-over or horse standing in a area where it is. Make sure it can withstand that added pressure applied. Also make sure it is safe for "drinking water" since there is some pipe used for drainage and other pipe for "potable" water...at some point you will also be drinking from a hose so you also need safe drinking water not just for the horse{s}....

Who ever you contract with for your electrical work hopefully is licensed by your county/township and meets or exceeds your zoning regulations. You will need proof of the work done correctly for your homeowners/barn insurance policy...

You've received much good posted advice already to take into consideration.
Enjoy the adventure of your horses home as you want them...and that new finished barn.
:wink:


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

A frost-free hydrant is the way to go if your temps get cold enough to freeze water. No point in wrapping the metal pipe as there's a plastic pipe inside. The metal pipe can withstand pails banging against it and something to snug the head to. We've had -40 and the ten seconds it takes before water shows up can be a bit nerve wracking but it hasn't failed me in the 8 or so years since it was installed. Also, they take a hose fitting which can be handy. Mine is a Nelson. It drains down below after the head is shut off. At one time the 18" depth for electrical was that it was safely below plowing depth.


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