# Teaching a horse not to pull back when tied. HELP!



## AnitaAnne (Oct 31, 2010)

I had a mare that used to panic when she felt the halter put pressure on the back of her head. She never broke things like your horse but she broke a lot of halters. 

She would go into a huge panic and fight until the halter broke. *Never, ever tie a horse up with an unbreakable halter if they panic like that*. 

What I did is to teach her to *walk forward* (in cross ties) until her nose had pressure on it. She would stand perfectly fine like that but I never, ever left her tied unsupervised. 


The other option it to tie the horse high up with a car tire inner tube between the post and the halter. This teaches a horse to give to the pressure. Bungies work too, but be careful as some cheap ones can break causing a bigger problem! 


Always tie horses above their head, never down low.


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

I was always told to tie them above the withers height. Cross Tieing him is a fiasco as soon as I hook ties on halter he panics. Leaps around pulls back rears up leaps forward and loses his mind.

I'll have to give the tire inner tube thing a try. Halter I use has the leather crown peice. Think he's learned he can break what he's tied to...or halter breaks. All I know is its not good.


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## TXhorseman (May 29, 2014)

I've seen a couple of devices that are designed to "tie" a horse but give before damage is caused. The one I can think of at the moment is the BsafeTie. I believe this is the one where you can adjust how much pressure it resists before giving.


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## egrogan (Jun 1, 2011)

I wonder if the Blocker Tie ring might help? Can be used in a barn or in a trailer.

I got my younger mare (now 11) last November. I had never worked with a horse with a tying problem so it honestly didn't even occur to me that she might have one. She was very nervous being in the barn aisle for the first month or so. Barn had a cross-tie set up. One day she shot backwards and broke her halter. Once she was loose, she was calm and I caught her back up easily. But she has broken other halters and cross-ties when tied in a situation that was claustrophobic for her (e.g, washstall). With a horse like her, where she seems to feel ok once the immediate confinement pressure is gone, the Blocker Tie ring has been great. There are a couple of different options for how you thread the rope through the ring, so it may allow them to move all the way to the end of the rope, or just find a tiny bit of slack, depending on what you've given them. 






Have to admit I hummed and hawed before shelling out $30 for what is essentially a stainless steel eye-screw, ring, and carabiner, but I am glad I did, it has made life a lot easier for us! I'm not sure if I'll ever get her to a place where I trust her hard tied without supervision, but right now the way she is works ok for me.


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## george the mule (Dec 7, 2014)

I wouldn't advise tying with a bungie; even the heavy-duty ones marketed as horse ties will break. I had one in my trailer, and my Large One got into an argument with it. He was more than halfway out, and had all of his 1200lb into the tug-of-war when the tie broke at the inner buckle, and the free end whipped back and popped him hard on the nose. No harm done except to his dignity, but it could have hit him in the eye, which would have been . . . bad.
With a "Blocker" ring, all of mine quickly learned that if they keep backing away, the lead will slip thru the device and eventually set them free. So all it taught them was to pull, and if it gives, to keep pulling.
Standing while tied a good application for "clicker" training, and while you have the clicker out, go ahead and train him to ground-tie. I wouldn't expect this to occupy more than a few training sessions, plus maybe a couple more to "introduce" him to the clicker.
https://www.theclickercenter.com


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## boots (Jan 16, 2012)

I have had good luck using a tire inner tube. 

I do it on days when I have a project at the barn or corrals and can stay relatively close. When they pull back on the tube, I offer little emotion, no correction, and just a touch of sympathy. "Golly, you're going to a happy horse when you learn to stop pulling." Something like that. 

I do carry a belt knife to cut the rope ( cuts easier than the tube) just in case an especially creative horse finds a way to get hurt. I've never had to use it.


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## greentree (Feb 27, 2013)

Tie that inner tube to a sturdy tree, well above the horses head. The horse needs to be fitted with a WEB or leather halter(they can slip out of a rope halter). Tie him to it, and leave him to sort himself out. As @boots said, keep a knife to be safe, but they cannot get a pulling purchase when tied to something stretchy above their head. Do this several days straight, at least. If he pitches a fit, let him, and do not take him down until he is sleeping. Then go get him, and give him a treat and his feed.


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

This is a young 5-year-old post who (from the sounds of your other posts) has some holes in his basic training. 



You didn't say that you have done this, so my first suggestion is to go back to ground zero. Work on the ground with desensiziting. Right now, the only way he knows how to react is by panicking (which results in things breaking). You need to retrain him to not panic. THIS TAKES TIME and CONSISTENCY; especially since this is a long-standing issue that has gone on for most of his life. 



I do agree with using the tieblocker ring so he doesn't break things; but ultimately, you still need to train him not to panic. He needs to learn that he can't "get away" by panicking. 



Do you know how to work with a horse like this on ground work? If not, I highly suggest you find a trainer in your area who can give you a couple lessons. TIMING is very critical. When you are presenting any type of scary object, you need to "push" the horse far enough so they make progress and learn. But you cannot push too far or else their brain will fry and they will resort to panicking again. It's a very fine line of when to push, when you hold your position, and when you release for praise. If you release too soon, they learn they don't have to do what you wanted. If you release too late, they don't understand what the correct response was. Again, TIMING is so very critical. 



I would present all sorts of scary things to him, along with desensitizing him to a rope (around his neck, legs, body, flank, etc). Again, he needs to learn not to panic when he is put into a situation where he is "trapped".


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

He's been desensitized to ropes and all kinds of scary things. He's not afraid of tarps ,plastic bags with aluminum cans in it. Ropes can be put everywhere on him he's unfazed. Leads with just a rope around his neck. 

This horse rides anywhere and through anything. Ride along highway unfazed by logging trucks or any vehicle. Trucks with flapping tarps are no big deal to him.

I've got kids who ride bikes and do all kinds of crazy stuff. 

He gets to end of rope and panics or if tied to short. Any pressure behind his ears from halter and instant pull back fight the rope. He steps on his lead when he goes to lift his head he freaks out flying backwards. 

He's real weird about his head being messed with tends to be head shy. Hard to bridle hard to halter can't put anything over his ears. Have to unbuckle bridle to put it on same with halter. 

He's learned he can break what he's tied to and get away. I don't tie him haven't for over a year was tired of having stuff broken ,hubby was tired of the repairs to barn. He's not a spooky horse never has been that's not his issue.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

If he's head shy, then you have to desensitize to that. Clicker training to lower the head for bridling and haltering was very effective for my extremely head shy mare who also pulls back. Then getting her used to me touching her everywhere on her head -- and I mean everywhere. Inside her ears, on her poll, in her nose, on her lips, around her eyes. It took time, but again, with clicker training, I had great success. She lets me touch her anywhere now, and is easy to halter and bridle, though I still have to be very deliberate and calm. Not necessarily slow, just very clear what I'm doing. She now shuts her eyes and lets me scratch her everywhere on the head. 

I've also done a lot of ground work with her to teach her to release to pressure. My guess is that you need to fill gaps in your horse's training, so I'm with @*beau159* on that one. I don't think shortcuts work. The people who sold me Kodak used shortcuts, flooded her (they hobbled her for desensitization so she couldn't move away from them), and the result was a horse that was shut down, but could explode at any moment (and she did). She pulled back a few times, ripped a board off and fell over backwards. It was terrifying. 

First I taught her to give to pressure by holding her halter and gently pulling on it in the direction I want her to give. If she pulled back, I just kept the pressure on, but stayed calm and unemotional. Eventually, she would move a little in the direction I wanted, and I would release the pressure. That way, she got the idea of giving in for relief. This is very basic of course, and something every horse should know, but maybe your horse didn't learn it correctly, or needs a refresher. Then I would use a lead rope and just loop it through the ring and hold the other end. I would pull it until there was tension on it and wait for her to step forward to release, which she learned to do fairly quickly. First I stood in front of her as I pulled, and encouraged her to step forward, then I stood at her shoulder and pulled until she stepped forward without any prompting other than the pressure on her halter. I still won't tie her solid, but she stopped panicking. I now use a blocker tie ring for my own safety and hers, and have not had her pull back to the point where she released herself.


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## Foxhunter (Feb 5, 2012)

You can do the tie high and leaving. 

Where I have had success with horses I could not do this to is to use a long rope, thread that through something solid but hold the end. Work with the horse grooming and when he goes to pull back use the end of the rope hard across his backside driving him forward. 

When a horse pulls back most people go to their head when they need driving forward.


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## Hackamore (Mar 28, 2014)

I have had good success with the tie blocker type rings. However before I use this or any method of tying I do take the time to train the horse to come off of halter pressure & to lead. This will set the horse up to succeed on the tie ring. Once I start using the tie ring I will use a 20’ lead rope. The 20’ rope is usually long enough so if the horse panics they generally stop themselves before pulling all the rope through the ring. This is important because stopping themselves with some pressure on the rope is what teaches them to come off pressure and eventually stand tied. 

Good luck


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

rambo99 said:


> He's been desensitized to ropes
> Ropes can be put everywhere on him he's unfazed.
> 
> * Any pressure behind his ears* from halter and instant pull back* fight* the rope. He steps on his lead when he goes to lift his head he freaks out flying backwards.
> ...



If he is head shy and pulls against a rope, then I would DISAGREE that he you can "_put ropes on him everywhere and he's unfazed_". Clearly he's uncomfortable with ropes around his poll/head, then work with him on that.


His headshy issue is most likely contributing to him pulling back, because he freaks out when something is around his head. So desensitize around his head!


It takes work and it takes time; especially with such a long standing problem. Might take months of work. And you may never 100% eliminate the pulling back, but you can sure make it a rare occurrance with good diligence and training.




foxhunter said:


> You can do the tie high and leaving.



Personally, I would NOT recommend this on a horse that is known to pull back, and does so hard enough to break things. IMO, you would be asking for an injury.



Down the road, when the horse has been worked with and has some more training, yes, then some "patience tree" training is in order. But not yet.


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

If your horse is THAT sensitive about it, 10-1 it's pain related. Pulling back can really mess up the poll and neck, and pressure there is very painful.


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## Cedar & Salty (Jul 6, 2018)

My old lease horse, a retired high school rodeo horse, had a bad accident when tied to a trailer. A loose horse crashed into him when he was tied to a trailer, and he tried to scramble backwards, stepping on his sheath and tearing it open. Afterwards he became a great lesson horse, but understandably developed the habit of pulling back when tied.

What I learned from him was that he wasn't afraid of being tied, he was afraid of not being able to escape scary things when he was tied up. One of the ways we handled this was to never "hard tie"him, but to only wrap his lead rope a few times so if he got scared, he could pull back and get free. When he did pull back, he would blow back a few steps, look for his person, and regain his composure and look sheepish and lost. We also knew he could pull back, so avoided working directly behind him, and tied him in a spot that was not close to other horses who might act up (his biggest trigger).

After pondering your other post, I definitely believe that your cinching issue and tying issue are the same thing. No matter what this horse does, no matter how hard he tries to tell you that he is worried, uncomfortable, in pain, dreading being tacked up and used, the people around him ignore it and continue hurting him. I believe you are lucky that he is emotionally shut down enough that he tolerates being ridden, and that he hasn't blown up on you under saddle, but if the pain and worry issues aren't addressed, one day he might.

I think you need to rebuild your relationship with this horse, not in a running him in circles waving a stick at him kind of way, but in an establishing a kind, trusting relationship way. Stop using him. Take the pressure off him. Spend some time grooming him without riding him. Spend the time you would be riding him just being kind to him, demanding nothing. Practice tying for a minute, feed him treats, scratch his itchy places and put him up. Stand next to him and be quiet when he is relaxing. Sit qietly with him while he is eating. Notice when he is scared and reassure him.

Buy a quality used saddle that fits. Use tack that is comfortable for him. If you can't afford quality, well fitting tack, you can't afford a horse. 

When he is hurt, or sick, or injured or worried, help him and comfort him instead of driving him through it. Let his body and brain heal for a few months, or even longer.

I don't think you have hurt your horse on purpose. I don't believe that horses must be bribed or cajoled into doing their jobs, or constantly rewarded for being our partners. I do feel you have been both physically and emotionally abusive and neglectful to this horse, as have his previous owners. 

Now that you know better, do better by him. Stop making excuses and minimizing. Put his needs before your own and work on building some trust and giving this horse some comfort in his daily life. Listen when he is telling you he is in pain and is worried about you hurting him. Understand that he doesn't want to be forced to work all day in inescapable pain, discomfort and misery. He doesn't want to be tied because it leads to hours of pain. Start listening and responding instead of blaming the horse.

I think your two problems would resolve with little training if you did these things.


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## Foxhunter (Feb 5, 2012)

beau159 said:


> Personally, I would NOT recommend this on a horse that is known to pull back, and does so hard enough to break things. IMO, you would be asking for an injury.


Sorry, I thought it would be pretty obvious that you do not stand immediately behind the horse but to one side. The wack is a shock as much as anything and snaps them out of the panic mode. 

I remember one young horse that would pull back on her rope, she hadn't got to the stage of actually trying to break free but was more testing. She was tied, the stable door was open whilst I fetched her haynet. I saw her testing the rope and threw a dandy brush at her. She never saw it coming and the shock sent her forward. She never sat back again.


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

Foxhunter said:


> You can do the tie high and leaving.
> 
> Where I have had success with horses I could not do this to is to use a long rope, thread that through something solid but hold the end. Work with the horse grooming and when he goes to pull back use the end of the rope hard across his backside driving him forward.
> 
> When a horse pulls back most people go to their head when they need driving forward.


I tryed this method yesterday with him and had some success. Spent about 3 hours with him every time he started to set back, I'd give him a whack on his butt. That would make him jump forward. 

Did same thing again today he was jumping forward. As soon as he saw the end of rope, being lifted to whack him. He's a hard core pull back horse but he's trying to do right. Only spent a half hour with him this morning In that time frame he set back 6 times. He's lighting fast and needs no reason to pull back.

I ended the session after he stood quiet for 10 minutes with no attempt to set back. In that ten minutes I groomed messed with his head & his ears which he hates . Clipped his bridle path which he hates...but he never tryed to pull back.


Really ropes don't faze him he ponies other horse rope gets up under his tail he could careless. Rope calves off him and drag them up to be doctored. 

His pulling back isn't about his head shyness. He pulls back because he just does. Last major pull back break front of stall, no one was any where near him, actually we weren't even in the barn. 

Lead him in barn daily with just a rope around his neck. My oldest daughter rode him last night on the trail. He went through everything water ,mud & brush. She had a huge tree branch she grabbed. Pulled it down so it broke then was dragging it along beside him. He never took a miss step or spooked.

Then once home she got off sliding off his butt. My horse's are about as desensitized as they get, with 4 kids being kids. 

Now I'm off here for today I'm in a lot of pain, major dental work done. Infected tooth that needed a root canal done.


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

Don't do things he 'hates' while you're teaching him to stand tied. Standing calmly should be pleasant and relaxing for him, not stressful. 



Do some research on the damage pulling back can do to the spine and bones of the head. Most horses who are confirmed pullers do it because if they move their head 'just so' it's excruciating, so they set back, which makes the damage worse, and it's a vicious circle. Fix that damage, and the horse can then learn to deal with the issue without pain. But it usually takes a really good chiropractor and possibly also someone good with myofascial and cranial release to fix it. Without fixing that, they continue to do it because it hurts, or they expect it to hurt. Most also have issues with giving to pressure. Can you toss that lead rope over the fence rail, and move the horse easily and swiftly all the way over to the right parallel to the fence, then all the way back over to the left parallel to the fence, then back him up and bring him forward without having to put more than fingertip pressure on the rope? If not, part of your issue is he doesn't understand how to give to pressure. While you're waiting for your chiropractor, do a bunch of the beginning groundwork on yielding to pressure with the hindquarters, forequarters, and whole horse and work on lateral flexion and softness-- most of the NH trainers' methods will work here-- Warwick Schiller, Clinton Anderson, Chris Cox, etc.


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## Foxhunter (Feb 5, 2012)

Some horses learn that they can pull back and break free so continue to do it. 

I think it is possible that originally something startled them, they pulled back, the pressure created more panic until he broke free. Then if he moved his head and felt pressure panic ensued until just being tied is enough to create the panic. 

Difficult habit to break.


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

Yes, but some are legitimately in pain. The OP's horse has some other behavioral issues that make me think that's at least part of the problem, and if this were my horse, I would want to rule that out before trying to get him over it, especially if he does it that often. I've had 8 or 10 confirmed pullers over the years, and in all but one, the issue was significantly helped, if not solved completely, by a good chiropractor.


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

He flexes laterally he move over his hindquarters also moves front-end over. All done with a light touch also gives to bit laterally and vertically very light touch on reins. He's like a noodle he so flexible. 

He doesn't lead up real good ,rope has to have slack. Take slack out of rope and he just goes backwards if you give rope a tug he will go flying backwards. 

He's a good horse but cinching up and Tieing are not good

Will work on the Tieing again tomorrow. Find he does somewhat better if he was worked/ridden prior to working on Tieing.


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

rambo99 said:


> He doesn't lead up real good ,rope has to have slack. Take slack out of rope and he just goes backwards if you give rope a tug he will go flying backwards.


He either doesn't know how to respond to the pressure, or the pressure hurts. I'd bet on the latter. Flexing doesn't have anything to do with how he responds to pressure when tied. In a horse's mind, those are two different things.


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## ValerieR (Jun 28, 2018)

Interesting that I no one has suggested this (or I might have just missed it), but hobble break him. There are a variety of renowned professionals (Buster McLaury comes to mind) who say that they will not tie their horses to saddle them for this and other (safety) reasons. If you think about it, tying horses by the head is pretty counterintuitive. They don't move from their heads, they don't pull back from their heads, they don't run away with their heads, etc. All of their power comes from the feet. When a horse is insecure about being tied as yours surely is, you put him at huge risk of hurting himself by tying him up by his head. When you tie him, his entire source of power is totally accessible to him, and if he panics and pulls back he can be seriously injured. If a horse panics when he's in hobbles and has been properly educated on how to wear hobbles, he is at a much reduced risk of serious injury because he doesn't have the access to his legs to flip over backwards.

It's also handy as heck on long rides outside to be able to slap a pair of hobbles on a horse and let him graze while you eat your lunch instead of having to find a tree to tie him to. The horses appreciate the graze time too. 


As a sidebar, Buck Brannaman talked to me a few years back about how critically important hobble breaking is to a horse's understanding of how to be restrained. I went home and went after it, as both all of my horses live on 30+ acres of wire-fenced pasture (great for hanging a shoe on). I went to feed them after we had some serious storms, one of my geldings didn't come up, and I went out to find him hung in an old downed wire that had washed into their pasture. He had been cut pretty badly when he had originally been caught, but because he understood how to respond to restraint he didn't panic and I am certain it saved his life/leg. If he had fought that wire, it would have been bad. Instead, he waited patiently with his foot tethered to the ground for someone to find him and cut him loose. 

Anyway, it's worth the time put in to get them good about these things. Remember, we bring horses into our world of ropes and cross-ties and halters. It's our job to make sure that they can safely navigate those things. 

Happy trails


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

^ It was suggested at least once, but yes, I agree. I hobble-break everything.


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## apachetears6 (Jun 7, 2018)

rambo99 said:


> My gelding has a huge issue with Tieing. He panics and pulls back breaking what he's tied too. Has taken down stall fronts, broken leads, halters & post broken off at ground level.
> 
> So I quit Tieing him, I just loop rope over board of stall front. But this method isn't great I'm tired of having a horse I can't tie. Also can't have him breaking everything he's tied to.
> 
> He'll fight the rope till something breaks, I'm afraid he'll break his neck pulling back. Need help on how to safely teach him to tie.



The method to break this habit I was taught was to halter the horse, put a rope on his halter and go to a loop of steel in a tree or post.
Run the length through a foot, then slowly start pulling the rope through the ring until the horse spooks and jumps back when it does simply let go of the rope.
do it again and again when he resists and sets back give him release at the rope. until finally you have him face snug against the tie place then stop and turn him out. Do this again and again, you may have to do it a long time BUT it does break the horse from setting back.
My Bud was tied close to a tree to break him by some foolish moron jackwagon.
It meant he resisted being tied for fear he couldn't get loose, you have to teach the horse that he is not permanently tied to that post/tree.


halter
Tie
Run rope through ring
pull to snug
horse sets back release and pet.
God luck.

:faceshot:


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## apachetears6 (Jun 7, 2018)

I will try to clarify my fix.
1. Go halter and attach a twenty or fifteen foot rope to your horse
2. Lead the horse to the tie up place it should have a ring that is wide enough for the rope to slip easy.
3. Thread the rope into the eye.
4. Take the rope bitter end and slowly pull the horse closer to the tie up place.
5. When/If the horse sets back and pulls the rope taught immediately let the rope go and slide back giving the horse release.
6. The take the rope and again pull slowly until the horse gets to it's set back response when the horse does set back, let go of the rope and let it slide back, give the horse release.
7. Do this again and again until you finally have the horses head against the post without it panicking or setting back, then when it does stand there quietly head against the post, pet it and speak soft soothing words to it give it a treat and let it go back to the pasture or stall that gives positive response to the horse.
8. Do it slow, quiet and steady do not punish the horse if it doesn't learn fast always speak in a normal tone and stand queitkly until it does too, hold enough rope so it cannot get free and run away BUT if it does let it, then go get it again.

9. You may have to do this again and again every time for a long time but when the horse learns it will and can get release from the post and tie it will be because it trusts you to let it go if it panics.
10. do this again after it has learned randomly and occasional to reinforce positive response.



The horse gets his reward and you get the best reward, That is the heart swelling, tear leaking moment between you and your horse you both learn trust.


The way some old horse breakers break a horse is to tie it when it is young head tight against a tree or post and let it stand there fighting the rope until it's spirit is broken.
It teaches a horse to fear the tie up.


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

^ That's pretty much now the blocker ring works, too.


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

I will look into teaching him to hobble. Don't own any hobbles though. He's been caught in fencing got his shoe hooked in wire. He just stood and waited for help.

Got him leading up I carry a whip when leading him. If he doesn't lead up he gets swatted on his butt with whip. Worked quite well yesterday. As did lesson on Tieing he's figuring out that flying backwards only get you a good whack on your backside. 

When he goes back forward I take slack out of rope. Some times he tenses up like he's going to go flying backwards. ..but I give him a light tap on butt... & tell him STAND STILL. 

He's getting worked hard so he's tired. Being tired helps a lot, less energy to pull back.


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

SilverMaple said:


> He either doesn't know how to respond to the pressure, or the pressure hurts.



This bears repeating.


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

Don't take the slack out when he goes forward; the slack is his reward. Taking it out only reinforces that he won't get relief from pressure.


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## jrc111 (Aug 7, 2017)

I have a 9 yo QH gelding who used to pull back bad; it’s largely been resolved thru the use of the Aussie Blocker II and training with a Monty Roberts “Dually” halter which puts pressure on the nose when the horse pulls back on the lead rope. I say largely, as I haven’t had any further episodes for a few months. In fact, last month he got his reins caught on a mesquite bush, and didn’t pull back, but instead waited for me to come untangle him. Nevertheless, I never hard tie him unless I’m right there, and I use a “bank robber” or “tumble” knot so I can quickly release him.


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

Took him to a vet today nothing is wrong. Xrays of back xrays of neck all normal no kissing spine or anything out of place. 

A few minor adjustments for chiro work. He's learning to come up off of pressure from halter. I give him no slack in rope because he always biting at it or chewing on it. No slack no chewing or biting at rope. It's a never ending battle with him. 

Got the blocker tie ring today ,will get hubby to put it up for me. So will start using that tomorrow. 

Now I'm headed out to go for a trail ride with kids.


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

UPDATE. . Been working with him everyday for last two weeks. Have him giving to pressure when applied to halter he now comes forward. I can tie him with the blocker tie ring set it so ,it takes a fair amount of pulling to get slack in rope. 

So far when he sets back he comes forward instead of continuing to pullback/fight rope. Won't tie him hard and fast he's not ready for that. He's come a long ways in two weeks. ..He's a smart boy and learning to trust.


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## TXhorseman (May 29, 2014)

Glad to hear things are improving.


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