# repainting trailer interior?



## knightrider (Jun 27, 2014)

I've re-painted a bunch of trailers throughout my life. I've sprayed, brushed, and rollered at different times. It's really not that bad to do. The hardest part is making up your mind, "I'm going to do this and start today." Wire brush, sand, then paint. It only takes a couple of days. Use the best quality paint. And then "just do it." After you are done, you think, "Why did I dread this job so much? It's really not that hard."

That's a nice trailer you are considering.


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## LoriF (Apr 3, 2015)

Acadian, is it an aluminum trailer? If it is, that would explain the peeling paint on the inside if it wasn't done correctly. I had the same thing with my little two horse bumper pull. Paint doesn't like to adhere to aluminum and you have to use a self etching primer first.

It's really not a big deal to paint though.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Not sure if it's aluminum. Will have to ask. 

I figure re-doing the interior isn't as bad as the exterior (doesn't have to be perfect, just light), but yeah, it will all have to be sanded down to get rid of the flaking paint. What's the best tool for this? Obviously some kind of electric sander.


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## carshon (Apr 7, 2015)

We used a palm sander when redoing an older trailer we had and it worked great. We used Marine paint when we repainted our as it is more water (condensation) resistant.

Good Luck!


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

carshon said:


> We used a palm sander when redoing an older trailer we had and it worked great. We used Marine paint when we repainted our as it is more water (condensation) resistant.
> 
> Good Luck!


Thanks! I've heard of using marine paint. Might try that...


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## JCnGrace (Apr 28, 2013)

I've hand sanded and painted the exterior on a trailer and that was hard enough, I think the interior would be even harder. You'll be having to work up instead of down, if that makes sense to anyone but me LOL, and the inward curves will be hard to get to. If you get the trailer and the damage on the inside is just cosmetic, I'd save up my pennies and have it sand blasted and then do my own painting to save money. I used rustoleum paint when I painted my trailer. It's a paint that stops and prevents rust erosion.


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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

You'll find an electric sander a lot faster than by hand but you'll have to use hand sanding for any hard to get too fiddly areas
I'd spray paint it, practice on some old wood first. You get a much better finish. If you don't fancy spraying then do as much as you can with rollers and the rest with a really soft brush


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

I did the inside of my old trailer. It’s a mix of wood and metal. As knight rider said, the hardest part is getting it together enough to actually start.

I used a brush on the wood and a roller on the metal. Taped and covered the windows and put an old tarp on floor to protect from drippings. Hand sanded a few spots that needed it (that was a little hard to do but there just wasn’t enough to justify power tools).

I was surprised how decent it came out but I know it was no where near the class act of an auto body professional’s ability.

I’d also recommend a light colour - white, light grey, etc., as it does make it more welcoming to a horse.

And I do like the look of that trailer.

Good luck and, of course, pictures of the progress.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

I'll be the nay-sayer... 

A 1988 trailer is going to be steel.
Looks like a nice trailer if the pictures are actual and factual...
Painting the inside if the paint is cracked and flaking/falling off...
Well, unless you want that to repeat it needs to be prepped correctly.
Not only lightly sanded but scraped well, and sanded.
Metal needs to be prepped with proper adherents so paint will stick.
I would not paint without priming the interior, carefully working all roof seams with special sealant then using appropriate primer.
Honestly it is a lot of work and not a pleasant contortionist position to be in working over your head 90% of the time..exhausting is one word I would describe this particular job as.
By the time you purchase proper materials...you will have spent a few hundred dollars minimum...paint, primers, reducer and all the add-in chemicals to do a good job cost more than many realize today.
Yes you can do the job..._but do you really want to?_
Do you have breathing respirators to wear when you strip the bad paint job?
Do you know how to prep metal so primer and paint adhere correctly?
You already are told it has a bad interior paint job...
That tells me there may be problems that you must now go to bare metal again to fix and treat the surface for adhesion...
Me...if you are referring to $1000 and it is a finished product I would find the money and let someone else do the sweat equity of prep and paint the darn thing properly so it is a one-time job and done.
It _*does*_ make a difference and don't forget you will also need to be on a ladder up, down, up and down every 6" of roof done...
I see a awful stiff neck, back exhaustion at a minimum.
Or...
I see delivering a trailer needing much work to strip and paying someone to have a professional quality job done the first time.
You are aware some paints are noxious to your lungs are you not?

I'm fussy...
There is a difference in a job professionally done and done right when you have a problem needing corrected...first.
Otherwise, buy cans of Rustoleum and spray away... :shrug:
It appears a nice trailer...finish the job correctly increases its value...
Do the job wrong and well...reduce value is what happens too.
:runninghorse2:...
_jmo..._


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Thanks all. Hubby is out that way today for work, so he's going to have a look to see if it's structurally sound. Because if not, then there's no point in going further. @*horselovinguy* , I get what you're saying. When we were students, we used to repaint our rusty old cars and even did some body work. It was hard work, but we did a pretty good job. And this is the interior, so in my mind, it doesn't have to look perfect. But we do want to remove the rust and I am aware that it takes a few steps. 

It is metal. Hubby bought a new truck though, with a much better towing capacity (and a full factory-installed tow system) so weight isn't an issue. 

It is a regular sized trailer - not X-tall or X-wide. I'm a little concerned about that. Harley is just a little guy, but he's used to a large trailer. However, there's no way I can afford a larger trailer right now. A friend has offered me her trailer for the summer but it's going to be the same size. The trailer I was renting last summer is very nice, but I'm really tired of driving half an hour to go pick it up, hauling it home, loading Harley, hauling an hour away to the lesson, back home, then bringing it back the same day. I want a trailer that can sit in my yard. So it's either something like this, or the one my friend offered me for the summer. They're pretty similar in terms of size, but one I have to rent, the other is mine to keep. 

Should I just tell Harley to suck it up and load? He's loaded in small trailers before, he just puts up a fuss, but we've discovered that once we put our foot down and use a lunge line on his rear if necessary, he'll load and be quiet about it. He's not the type that gets worked up in a trailer. I wish I could give him all the comfort he deserves, but financially, that's just not realistic right now. He's 14.2, he should be able to live with a regular sized trailer right? 

Anyway, like I said, first we will assess whether it's structurally sound. Then we'll decide what to do. I've asked hubby to measure the inside height.


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## knightrider (Jun 27, 2014)

Yes, tell Harley he can suck it up and learn to haul in a small trailer. I trailered my 16 hand appaloosa in a very small trailer from Texas to Maryland during Hurricane Agnes. In the beginning of the trip, Cyclone thought the trailer wasn't much to his liking. By the time we got to Maryland, he thought it was plenty good enough.


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## QueenofFrance08 (May 16, 2017)

@Acadianartist I would say that as long as Harley fits inside perfectly fine (which it certainly sounds like he will) and it's a mental thing to not worry about it. My Arabian was a pain in the butt to get into certain trailers when we first got him (well, at first ALL trailers) but after a summer of being trailered out to ride weekly/ long trips to a few distance rides he happily hops in any trailer now. He'll get used to it.


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## george the mule (Dec 7, 2014)

Hi AA!

An older inexpensive horse trailer.
As always, tires, brakes, suspension, and frame are the critical components. These are expensive to repair or replace. Wiring is important, but if the lights work now, they will probably continue to work. Things that break; the main connector, the ground connection and tail light lamps/lenses typically are reasonable and inexpensive DIY projects.
I would avoid "Getting Romantic" with this kind of project.
If you do decide to paint the interior, get a handheld angle grinder, put a medium wire brush on it, use it to remove as much of the flakey old paint as can be readily accomplished, then get a couple cans of spray paint and have at it.
Remember, you are not gonna add much, if any to the value of the trailer, even if you do a Picasso paint-job on it; settle for what can be done w/o too much effort, and save your energies for things that _are_ important, and your money for an upgrade in a couple of years. Keep the critical components in serviceable condition, and it will be safe to use, and will most likely resell for about what you are spending to acquire it; an appropriate goal for an older conveyance.
Oh; with that wire brush thing: They will hurt you. Use heavy leather gloves, a heavy jacket that protects your arms, a face shield, and a dust mask. Don't get carried away; just knock off the loose paint, and rough it up elsewhere to help the new paint stick. The angle grinder is a handy tool, and it is worthwhile to get a good one. I have a DeWalt cordless grinder that is a workhorse; I think I spent about $150 on it. The wire brush will be another $20. You want one that looks like this:


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

george the mule said:


> Hi AA!
> 
> An older inexpensive horse trailer.
> As always, tires, brakes, suspension, and frame are the critical components. These are expensive to repair or replace. Wiring is important, but if the lights work now, they will probably continue to work. Things that break; the main connector, the ground connection and tail light lamps/lenses typically are reasonable and inexpensive DIY projects.
> ...


Thanks! I like the visual 

And yes, I think you get the idea. Something I can use for a couple of years in the hopes that I can upgrade eventually without throwing my money away at rentals (I've probably spent about 2500$ on those in the last 3 years). This is an old trailer, and will always be an old trailer. What gives me hope is that the seller appears to take very good care of their things, and have done most of the upgrades that would normally be necessary for a trailer of this age. But hubby will take a closer look with a critical eye, having bought utility trailers before including one that had to be completely rebuilt. I don't want to do that with this horse trailer so it has to be in such a condition as to require minimal upgrades. Cosmetic flaws I can live with for now.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

I like George's idea and your last post very much. :thumbsup:
See the issue, address the issue, paint the issue, now move-on and enjoy your freedom. 

The size of the trailer from that picture doesn't look "small' to me at all...
I would say it is near 7' tall and a full "normal" horse size width and stall length, not oversized...
You _don't_ need over-sized/warm-blood sized for any of your horses honestly..
If you are referring to that trailer being 6'6" height...don't get bigger/taller horses by much from what you have now.
Today 7'6" is standard and seeing 8' lately but that is ridiculous for your needs...stall width and length to match trailer height appropriate.

If the trailer height is 6'...please _pass on it._
Stall length & width might be just to tight for any of your horses to fit properly.

It is not worth what goes along with that height to buy it, then when you try selling it as you upgrade will have even more difficulty since the norm today is behemoth horses = x-large trailers needed.
Pictures are always somewhat deceiving in actual dimensions unless a tape measure accompanies to show differently.

My final comment though is...if it needs painting, do a good prep work as metal, steel not only rusts from the outside, but do indeed rust from inside out.

Hopefully, this one comes home.. :smile:
:runninghorse2:...


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Thanks @*horselovinguy* . Yes, we are prepared to sand it down to the metal. It may take a bit of time, but it's the best option right now, given my finances. 

Indeed, 6' would be far too short! I once went out to see a trailer that looked nice in photos, but I think it was probably about 6' or just a little more. I immediately walked away and told the sellers there is no point in wasting their time. Now I ask for dimensions! The seller didn't have them, just told me it is "regular" size. Hubby is 6' so if he can't walk comfortably in it, we will pass!!! I just don't want Harley hitting his head, nor do I want him to have to keep his head lowered when he's in there. 

We did get spoiled using an X-Wide, X-Tall trailer before. And in normal times, I might be able to afford payments on one like that, but not right now. I have too many other bills to take that on. So a good deal is my only option - that or renting again this summer, which remains on the table if we have any doubts at all about this trailer.


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## 4horses (Nov 26, 2012)

I say go for it! 

I just bought a newer trailer. The outside looks good but it had some interior rust and some bubbly paint in places. I went in 2 days ago with the angle grinder- removed as much rust and bubbly paint as possible. It has stock bars- removing the surface rust off of that was difficult, but not impossible. 

It had stall mats on the walls, which i removed completely . I bought plywood, painted that with gloss- looks really pretty. The boards will go in after i finish the interior.

I picked up sand paper and silver aluminum colored rustoleum. Yes, cheaper paint, but i prefer non toxic paint. Well, less toxic paint. I'm rolling it on, not spraying it- less to inhale. 

My plan is: fix the interior, add windows, and hopefully this should last for years without too much further maintenance. 

Fortunately, the tack area looks great, so there's not that much work left. 

If you are using the angle grinder for removing rust, pick a cool day. You need eye protection, ear muffs, a dust mask, long sleeves and gloves. I'm pretty wimpy with power tools and i didn't think it was too bad- my arms were like noodles afterwards, but i was out there a while. Bring a step stool. 

How do you get the rust out of the crevices? There are corners i could not get into.


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

With regard to making Harley travel comfortable, if you able to take out the center partition to let him see a nice roomy space and subsequently be able adjust his stance as he wants he may be quite content. I suspect the width of that trailer is quite similar to my old one and that is what I did when I hauled one horse and they always took advantage of the extra room and stood sideways. 

The height on my old trailer is 6’6, btw, and I had horses as tall as 16h in it (one horse filled up the trailer that day for sure) but it works best for 15h and under.


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## gunslinger (Sep 17, 2011)

I pull a 1994 steel Sundowner every weekend. I've had it ten years, and only paid $2000 for it......so, don't think you've got to spend a lot of money to get a trailer that does the job.


That said, I've put brakes on it twice, and it's on it's third set of tires. You're going to have to replace things like that every few years no matter if you buy new or used. Tires and brakes are expendables.


When I pull into a trail head, I notice I don't have the best trailer in the parking lot, but I also don't have the worst either.


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## RegalCharm (Jul 24, 2008)

I have known a couple of guys that took their trailers to a place that does the spray in truck bed lingers and had the walls and floor and back door or ramp sprayed after taking out the floor mats. I think they did 18 inches high in the horse compartment. that way urine didn't splatter on the painted walls. it actually creates like a bath tub effect and keeps the urine from soaking in the wood on wooden floors. Then just put your rubber mats back in. and preferred bedding to help soak up urine. Around here most use sawdust.


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## george the mule (Dec 7, 2014)

4horses said:


> How do you get the rust out of the crevices? There are corners i could not get into.


Hi 4horses.

Uh, you're not going to like this answer, but the only practical way is with a sand-blaster. You can get a portable sand-blaster; hopper, pickup hose, and gun for not too much money, but the air compressor to run it is another story; IIRC they require something like 100CFM @ 50-60PSI.

If it's not too bad, be sure it is dry (heat it up to >100°C with a propane torch), and then bury it in paint. If the rust is bad . . . Um, "Be sure it is dry, and then bury it in paint." 

If it has bad rust in a structural/load-bearing area, your only safe option is to cut away the rusted areas, and weld in patches. You really have to love your trailer, or love your MIG to consider setting out on such a journey.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

george the mule said:


> If it has bad rust in a structural/load-bearing area, your only safe option is to cut away the rusted areas, and weld in patches. You really have to love your trailer, or love your MIG to consider setting out on such a journey.


This is an interesting comment! We passed on the trailer for EXACTLY this reason. My husband found at least one spot in front of the wheels where the rust had eaten through to the floor boards (from the side, not from underneath, but still..). He poke his finger right through it. The seller said they hadn't noticed. It would require cutting out the metal, welding in new metal, and replacing the floor boards which have rotted in that spot due to being exposed to the elements. Just NOPE. 

I can deal with some cosmetic stuff, but this is body work. It makes zero sense to put this much work in a 1988 trailer in my mind. The frame appears to be good now, but for how long? It would just be the type of thing that I'd have to keep fixing up each year, not to mention my fear that something would fail and the results would be catastrophic... something a bit strange came out of the conversation my husband had with the seller too - they've only had the trailer briefly, and they're not the ones who put in all the work to fix it up. Which of course begs the question why? Regretting their purchase and trying to recover their loss? 

So I'm back to either renting or paying a little more for a newer trailer. 

Thanks for all your comments nonetheless! It gives me an idea of what I'm prepared to do, and where I draw the line. Unless it's a free trailer, body work on an old trailer is where I draw the line, personally.


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## george the mule (Dec 7, 2014)

AA, at some point these things (and _not_ just horse trailers; rusty objects in general) have a negative value, in that they will cost more than they're worth to fix, and then they either rust quietly away while decorating your yard, or you have to pay someone to haul them away for you. I have a Subaru that has achieved this status, and where I would usually load it up for its final trip to The Crusher, I don't have a title for it, and now-a-days, you have to have a title before the scrap yard will take it. I suppose I will have to take a Sawzall to it, and cut it into bite-sized bits to make it go away. I did recently purchase its twin (but w/o the rust), so I may yet be able to pull some bits and pieces of salvage from it, but overall . . . Sigh.
And Rust Never Sleeps. Even if you do make the Herculean effort to eradicate the rust in one area, absolute guarantee that it is plotting a return performance elsewhere.
Sorry about your trailer prospect, but IMO it just isn't worth the trouble to try and put in a fix once it gets started.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

Great image Steve! 

Yes, I have seen people buy older vehicles thinking they got a great deal, fix them up, and keep fixing them up because at some point, they have sunk so much money in them, they're not willing to let them go! I even know someone whose car (subject to many hours of sanding, and replacement parts, but a run-of-the mill car, not an antique or a sports car or anything) was written off in an accident. The cheque from the insurance company was nowhere near reflective of the money he had sunk in it, and he tried to argue with them so they would fix this old, boring car rather than give him replacement value. I don't think he got anywhere with the insurance company. 

The search continues. But if I don't find anything, I have other options. Three different people have offered to rent me their trailers so while I'm not gaining an asset by renting, I also don't have to be responsible for maintenance, inspection, or repairs.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Acadianartist said:


> The search continues. But if I don't find anything, I have other options. Three different people have offered to rent me their trailers so while I'm not gaining an asset by renting, I also don't have to be responsible for maintenance, inspection, or repairs.



This actually is a plus to me...
You have 3 trailers to try Harley in and find a design he is easiest and happiest to load in...
Once you purchase a trailer, whether he likes it or not...he must ride in it.
Personally, I would try to find a design the horse is good getting in and riding in and getting out of safely...
You can find the "not doing this ever again" attitude trailer and also the one "open the door and he jumps in"...the second would be my choice.
You will find that trailer...or it will find you.
Things do have a way of working out in the long run for the best. 
:runninghorse2:...


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

horselovinguy said:


> This actually is a plus to me...
> You have 3 trailers to try Harley in and find a design he is easiest and happiest to load in...
> Once you purchase a trailer, whether he likes it or not...he must ride in it.
> Personally, I would try to find a design the horse is good getting in and riding in and getting out of safely...
> ...


Well, I already know which trailer Harley likes - the biggest, fanciest, most expensive one! :blueunicorn: I can't afford one like it, as much as I'd love to have one like it. 

Actually, what he'd love even more is a three horse slant, preferably with other horses riding with him. Which again, I can't afford, nor do I want. So I don't think Harley gets to choose here, but I get your point!


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## knightrider (Jun 27, 2014)

Years ago, someone in my fox hunting club got in an accident with their trailer. They had a small trailer and large fox hunting horses. The trailer rolled several times, but the horses were completely unhurt because they were wedged so tightly in the trailer.

I was told then (have no idea as to the veracity of this) that you should buy as small a trailer as your horse will happily tolerate. That is supposedly the safest way to trailer.

I had a small trailer and a big horse, so I happily went along with that idea. I don't know if that "folk wisdom" is true or not, but those two horses were unhurt, which was pretty wonderful.


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## Acadianartist (Apr 21, 2015)

knightrider said:


> Years ago, someone in my fox hunting club got in an accident with their trailer. They had a small trailer and large fox hunting horses. The trailer rolled several times, but the horses were completely unhurt because they were wedged so tightly in the trailer.
> 
> I was told then (have no idea as to the veracity of this) that you should buy as small a trailer as your horse will happily tolerate. That is supposedly the safest way to trailer.
> 
> I had a small trailer and a big horse, so I happily went along with that idea. I don't know if that "folk wisdom" is true or not, but those two horses were unhurt, which was pretty wonderful.


Thanks! That will help me feel less guilty, lol. Makes sense though, since baby car seats are unbelievably confining.


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## Diazwoman61 (Sep 25, 2017)

I just repainted the interior of my old 2 horse aluminum trailer last week. A friend who is a diyer helped guide me through the process. We took everything off , taped sanded and used wire brush on rust spots, I emailed rust oleum for advice but just said aluminum trailer as they won’t advise when animals are involved..3 days of hard work but interior and tack room look so clean and fresh..now I am going to try to clean and polish aluminum exterior, if it doesn’t clean up nice, I’m painting it ! Onlyn5hing I would have done different is to use a sprayer...I used spray cans and primer and paint, probably 12 to15 cans of each


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