# Tucking knees



## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

He just needs to be fitter in general, that means more hacking outside of an arena if you can do that because it’s the most effective and least boring (for you and the horse) way to do it.
You need to aim at the horse being conditioned physically to be more energetic and sharper off your leg and then learn how to contain that energy to produce impulsive and then elevation.
Look at articles by Jim Wofford and Bernie Traurig and use basic dressage techniques in your schooling routines combined with grid work.
What your horse is doing, even at the slightly higher fence, is cantering over it rather than lifting up and jumping over it.


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## greentree (Feb 27, 2013)

You are jumping a little ahead of him, which causes too much weight on his front end.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

You need to stop trying to lift the horse off the ground and allow the horse to rise to meet you.
Yes, you ride in front of the balance point, look where your crotch is in the first picture...you've thrown your body, your weight forward and that hinders the horse from rising and using his forehand, shoulder muscles to raise & tuck those legs.

When you approach a fence you also need to be straight and square to it, coming at a direct straight line not from a angle as the one picture shows...
Advanced riders can and do ride cutting strides out of a line or by riding a bending line can ride even stride distances but, not putting you down, you are not skilled enough yet to see these distances nor ride them effectively.
Please use ground rails/poles for take-off distances seen easier for the horse and for you as you learn.

You would do well to work with "bounces", a type of gymnastic that teaches the horse to push off from behind as they go over several fences closely spaced. These are also known as gridwork...
I rode them at a trot to the base of the first then the horse cantered with a impulsive push off to clear 5 low cross-rails or verticals in a row...
If you don't stay off the front end, you will hit them.
It teaches you to use a effective 2-point, be still and let the horse rise to you not you collapse on the horse which is a habit of yours.
Because you ride with a rigid "over-flexed" spine does not make you in balance with the horse...

We know both horses will clear larger fences in height...
You need to learn to clear low fences properly first with good human body position, horse approach and execution of the fence and quiet ride off to the next element {fence}.
You need to learn how to send a horse forward from their hind end not drag themselves around on a heavy forehand.

This is one example of simple bounces...cross-rail, low straight, low straight to vertical.
They will help you to learn how to send not be dragged from the forehand or you can't do the exercise well.







_These type of fences do not have non-jumping strides in between them - the horse lands with his front feet over one fence but then has to pick up to take off for the second fence, just as his hind feet touch the ground, having negotiated the first fence.

To tackle these fences successfully the horse has to be sharper in his shoulders, picking up his front legs neatly and also using his hindlegs more actively. More athleticism and power is needed from the horse and he has to think quickly. 

Once a horse has had experience of jumping bounce fences he will find it easier to tackle cross country fences such as drops and steps.

You can introduce your horse to bounce fences as part of a grid, providing your horse is comfortable jumping a grid. Your first bounce fences must be small as your horse needs the opportunity to realise what he has to do. You could introduce just one bounce into a grid eg a small cross pole to a small vertical. The distance between the two bounce fences should not be less than 12ft unless they are very small.

Make sure your horse is confident bouncing between two fences before you start to add any more - and remember that it's sensible to restrict yourself to no more than five fences in a bounce grid. This is because the exercise is strenuous for the horse, especially as the fence height increases.

It's important that the rider keeps the horse balanced and with plenty of impulsion to negotiate bounce fences - and riders will also find that riding bounces helps improve their own balance and suppleness. JUMPING BOUNCE FENCES - Reap the benefits - Horse Answers Today
_

Also known as gridwork...endless combinations can be made.
Use care to measure distances between poles/rails carefully.
Start with rails on the ground aka cavaletti.
Work to rails and a cross-bar and eventually onto vertical, vertical and rail combos...
You start by trotting, then work to cantering them...but a work in progress you need to learn to do to strengthen your core, the horses agility and way of carrying their body over fences of any height.
You don't jump high till you accomplish low correctly or you will crash at some point, period. 

Engaging the hind end, impulsion, your being in correct balance and not collapsing on his front end are necessary things you need to correct and learn...
This is some combinations of bounce/grid fences and their distances between them...









There is much available in video along with reading material if you take the time to look for it.
Many books and articles in magazines are also available and learning to ride these in partnership with the horses will improve you and them as you jump...but you don't need to go high, you need to go correctly.

The greatest show jumping horses who have done Puissance classes, jumping world class high fences...some clearing 7' plus fences do that from a trot...very controlled.
It is impulsion, push-off not speed that gives the ability to jump and clear.
It is impulsion that allows the horse to arc over a fence and snap their knees high and tight...
Ride from behind not off the front-end.
:runninghorse2:...


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## falling (Apr 13, 2014)

If the first photo is a better example of how you usually look when jumping, I think your position looks just fine for the level you are at. You are in front of your horse, yes, but you are releasing well and staying out of his way. He does look like he is lacking impulsion. Definitely get him fitter and off your leg, but also gymnastic exercises and a jumping lane will help him 'sharpen up.' 

Gymnastic exercises such as bounces are great as well as using ground poles to help you learn to shorten and lengthen your canter stride. 

A jumping lane is great because it lets you see your horses natural 'form' without rider influence. It can also be great for green horses to learn technique, how to get themselves to the base of the fence, and in this horses case, how to tighten knees up over a higher fence without a rider.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

We must use jump lanes differently as we ride ours over them. We also do grids and bounces. Each exercise has a different reason for being introduced and used but all of the riders where my child rides uses them at some point and then uses then to sharpen either themselves or the horse. I keep them set up in the riding area and find my child just enjoys the different patterns he can create between them and the small jumps set up. Just remember a horse only has so many jumps in him and considering where you are you may want to limit even further due to the heat and humidity.


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## Filou (Jan 16, 2014)

It helps if your horse is trained to sit back before the fence. 

I will train a young horse to do this by jumping a fence, halt, then turn and jump it back, halt, repeat. 

You do need to let the horse jump to you. You are jumping like this is a 4ft jump... it's not!

I also agree, your back is extremely tense, you need to relax your back, shoulder, and hip while still maintaining good form.


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

This doesn't look like a horse that is 'just cantering over' a jump. It seems to be pushing off with both hind feet. And, it's not THAT small of a jump.


Would be nice to see a video.


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## updownrider (Mar 31, 2009)

Bernie Traurig’s equestriancoach.com always has a free video of the month and this month is about gymnastics. Perfect timing for you. 

Free Video of the Month | Equestrian Coach

I have not watched it, but everything is quality from this website. Jaydee mentioned Bernie above, and I linked another video of his on another thread of yours.


**adding on, I’ve watched some of this video and if you do not have enough standards to make jumps, use poles of the ground.


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## Foxhunter (Feb 5, 2012)

tinyliny said:


> This doesn't look like a horse that is 'just cantering over' a jump. It seems to be pushing off with both hind feet. And, it's not THAT small of a jump.
> 
> 
> Would be nice to see a video


I disagree all round! 

In the second picture you can see hat he is not pushing off with both hind legs equally, in the first you can't see both hind legs. 

I doubt if that fence is anything more than 2'6" which, for any horse is not going to get him to make an effort over the rail. 

Impulsion into a fence is vital, not just cantering into it. 

Spreads rather than uprights, lots of grid work. 

The rider is making to much effort to swing forward. As said, there is a lot of stiffness in the body. Over a fence htat size the swing should be minimal. 

Try the grids and when he is familiar with them, domthem without stirrups, that should stop you over swinging forward, if you are still doing it, do the grid with your eyes shut!


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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

If you look at the top picture, where his legs are more even, he is pushing off and getting a more upwards action but in the second picture where his one leg is dropped well below the other his back legs are spaced out so he’d never gone from his canter stride to that half halt, gather and push stage.
She isn’t lying on his neck and her hands are allowing him to move forwards, there are faults in her position but I’ve seen worse in riders on horses jumping a whole course of big fences in a lovely outline
The difference between those horses and this one is lack of fitness.


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## falling (Apr 13, 2014)

I agree 100% with jaydee. Yes, the position of the rider is probably not helping this horse, but if you look at any hunter jumper circuit (I think that's what it's called over there) you will see hundreds of riders riding much more detrimentally then this one, and their horses still snapping their knees up. 

I do not think you can say it's the rider causing these knees, nor would I personally be worried about the jump these pictures are presenting at this level. The jumps are small, horses effort is minimal. With more implosion, a bigger or scarier jump, even with the rider remaining in a position like this, I think youd see a very different picture. 

I do have to say OP that jumping where I am in NZ is very different from in the states.


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## Filou (Jan 16, 2014)

You can totally ride a very well trained hunter horse by laying down across their back, throwing your shoulder at them, and they still jump super. Because the horse is trained to do so. That's part of why those horses demand a high price. Does that work for all? No, some you still need to ride properly to get the good jump, but from my years of experience and in riding hunters most of them are going to be jumped with you laying across their neck. Then there's the horses who were never taught, or just lack the natural ability who can still jump hunters but don't expect them to place like the others do!

While it may be a factor I don't think it's all fitness, I think the horse is jumping lazily because it doesn't know how to jump well. It's not been trained in how to jump well while the rider throws it's shoulder. I've seen fit horses who jump with uneven knees because they are being lazy. I've seen unfit horses jump with even knees because they are being careful and not lazy. In fact, I own one of each. 

The horse is not born knowing how to jump nicely, it's a learned skill. Even if it was born with natural talent, it can still be improved through coaching. Just because it's more fit doesn't mean it will suddenly care more and jump properly. Lazy horses just want to make it over the fence the easy way regardless of fitness. The rider needs to guide the horse to jump well. 

I know there's a difference between east and west coast hunters, but some things stay the same. My experience tells me the horse lacks training or the rider isn't capable of bringing that level of ability out of the horse due to rider needing more training.


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

Isn't this horse supposed to be a fancy, well trainer hunter?


The average sized horse doesn't start actually jumping fences until 3'+, everything else is a big canter stride. 



I really wouldn't worry about his knees. The forearms are up which is really the most important part. Some horses will be really scopey and have cute knees over everything, and they usually aren't beginner horses. This one is jumping a bit bigger to accommodate, because why not. If the fences started getting bigger, you'd probably see him change his game, like if he went through a chute. If the forearms are up and he's not knocking fences, I wouldn't make it a priority, it'll come as part of improving elsewhere.


While there's room to improve on her position, it's really not that bad. He's a big horse, she's small. How he's ridden to the fences will have more of an influence on how he jumps than her being a little forward like that. If you can ride them straight and together right to the base of the fence, you can impress them and they'll snap their knees right up, but that can be difficult to do for a beginner rider. Tall, skinny Xs, and grids will help encourage the knees to be tighter if you really must. Trotting and walking into fences also makes them sit at the base and tighten up.


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## DreamerR (Dec 17, 2017)

Here’s the video as requested


https://youtu.be/4CCuoPTGSfE


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## Filou (Jan 16, 2014)

I think this is a pretty good article to read. 
https://www.horsemagazine.com/thm/2019/01/showjumping-style-with-george-morris/

In the video the horse needs support at the base of the fence, not to be dropped to figure it out. You are brave! He's giving you a pretty good run for your money there.


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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

In the left hand photo he isn't too bad at all, in the right hand one his one leg is well below the other and that means a high risk of getting the pole between his legs, even over small fences.
Fitness does play a big part in it, you could have a horse that's fit enough to trail ride all day but doesn't have the developed muscles for jumping - OK for just one or two little schooling jumps but a real strain over a whole course.
The one short video clip isn't enough to give a really informed opinion. If the rider is trusting to luck that the horse will place himself right for take off he might do that over a few of the jumps but fail over the rest. 
What you aim for is consistency.
For a rider and horse that's struggling with the half halt, gather and push off sequence you can use a ground pole in front of the fence as a visual 'forced' half halt.
The distance should be such that the horse goes over the ground pole and then only has just enough room to complete his stride before taking off - what we call a bounce (not sure if that's what its called in the US). The stride has to be short enough that he has to gather himself together and shorten up, hind legs underneath him so both hind legs are then together and pushing off together. 
That makes the horse straighter as he goes forwards so one front leg isn't on 'catch up' with the other.


I thought this was the horse that had raced?
If the OP is looking at the Hunter classes over fences competitions then the horse has to look correct because how it looks reflects on the rider
If she's looking at show jumping then the horse needs to be jumping safely and correctly or its not going to stay sound.


Showjumping in the UK seems a bit different to the US. We have local unaffiliated shows where the height for Beginner Novice would be about 2ft 3 but at affiliated shows the lowest class is British Novice where the jumps have a max. height of what works out at about 2ft11 and most aren't much below that so we'd be expecting a horse to comfortably jump a course at 3ft 3 to go in the ring at novice level
We don't have Hunter classes at all that compare to the US competitions
This video shows how a 'bounce' works to get the horse in the right position for take off - the trainer is using a small jump for the first part of the fence, but I'd start off with a ground pole with a horse like the OP's. She also explains about getting the distance between the first and second part right to help a green horse


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## updownrider (Mar 31, 2009)

Filou said:


> You can totally ride a very well trained hunter horse by laying down across their back, throwing your shoulder at them, and they still jump super. Because the horse is trained to do so. That's part of why those horses demand a high price. Does that work for all? No, some you still need to ride properly to get the good jump, but from my years of experience and in riding hunters most of them are going to be jumped with you laying across their neck. Then there's the horses who were never taught, or just lack the natural ability who can still jump hunters but don't expect them to place like the others do!
> 
> While it may be a factor I don't think it's all fitness, I think the horse is jumping lazily because it doesn't know how to jump well. It's not been trained in how to jump well while the rider throws it's shoulder. I've seen fit horses who jump with uneven knees because they are being lazy. I've seen unfit horses jump with even knees because they are being careful and not lazy. In fact, I own one of each.
> 
> ...


Laying down across a horse’s neck is never correct. Peter Pletcher, a winning hunter rider, explains in this video.


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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

I so much want to give that man a big hug!


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

I remember reading in the book, "The Eighty Dollar Champion" about how Snowman was initially a poor jumper, putting in as little as possible, or grabbing the bit and plowing around without much attention to the jumps. I can't remember what made the change, but something clicked, and he changed. 



Also, (not related to any advise to the OP as a rider) I saw video of his rider's jumping style. It was pretty outrageous!


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

^^
Have you seen the documentary on Snowman? It's good. I might have cried.


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

Harry's jumping style was unorthodox, but he stayed out of the horse's way. Showjumping at the time was a bit 'fly by the seat of the pants' and as long as you could stay on, it was good enough! Seeing some of the things Snowman jumped, I'd kick my feet out of the way, too, if I were tall and leggy!


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## Filou (Jan 16, 2014)

updownrider said:


> Laying down across a horse’s neck is never correct. Peter Pletcher, a winning hunter rider, explains in this video.
> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gmEoKHMd0qU


Sure it's not correct, but a well trained horse will accommodate and still jump fancy. 

I felt his focus in the video was staying broken over after the fence. I'm not seeing that being an issue for the original poster, I haven't seen them laying across the neck after the fence. I think if they start jumping ahead and breaking over as much for a fence this size is incorrect and makes the horse struggle to lift it's front end, that and the reins are dropped right before the horse lifts off so he drops his shoulder as he's being allowed to. 


Extremely common thing to see. OP has a great advantage in the riding they are doing, tall and skinny is what judges and trainers want to see. I think a little enhancement of technique is what's needed to go from these ok jumps to wow.


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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

The OP would look ‘prettier’ in the saddle if she altered her position a little but it isn’t going to change the way the horse consistently takes off on uneven hind legs - that’s all down to riding effectively.
Most riders who get in front of the horse are making the mistake of riding around in 2 point and then instead of staying in that 2 point as the horses leaves the ground they go even further forward. If they were to sit down in a more effective driving seat 3 strides before the fence that wouldn’t happen and they’d also be better able to set the horse up for take off


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

You can ride around a course in two point and not jump ahead. It's a common flaw to feel the need to move over the fence, so if you are already up out of the saddle and you move, then you are ahead. If you stay still, have the horse on pace and rhythm, the horse come up to you, you don't move, give your release, then on to the next fence. Easy, simple.

Getting ahead in two-point is still less movement than someone sitting to a fence then throwing themselves forward to the same position as someone in two-point getting a little ahead. That's more disruptive to the horses balance.

You also don't need to sit down to ride them to the base of the fence.


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## updownrider (Mar 31, 2009)

I would not worry what the OP needs to do to impress the judges with any sort of technique until she learns the basics. That is, establishing a good canter with rhythm and pace which allows her to find consistent distances to the jumps. In my opinion, she took off too close to the first fence and too long to the second. Several exercises have been suggested and videos posted on many of her threads. Time and practice is also necessary, something she is doing.


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

OP, are you in control of the striding toward these fences and controlling where your horse takes off from by lengthening and shortening the stride, or are you pointing him at the fence and hoping he can find his own distance?


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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

Going from 2 point into 'even more 2 point' is a common flaw and its one that's become far too common because there's too much emphasis placed on having this often exaggerated two point position even if its at the expense of the horse having its head 'in next week' and its back legs 'in the week before'
If you spend a ton of money you can buy a horse that will do a beautiful balanced canter regardless of what the rider does because someone else has put in the training to get it to that point but if you don't have that sort of money then its a whole lot easier to produce that nice flowing canter if you're in full or a light half seat
A lot of time more novice riders are in half seat they're relying on weight in the stirrups and a pinching knee to do it, rather than core strength. The former means they don't have a strong lower leg to push the horse into the hand and often times that hand isn't effective either and the horse is falling through it and going downhill rather than uphill.


You can ride to take off in 2 point if you have a horse that's doing the job for you but you see very few showjumpers riding like that. They're more likely to use a light half seat around the course and then a full seat for the last few strides


Watch Amanda Derbyshire (she competed Big Star through the lower levels), she rarely goes into the sort of 2 point you see in so many younger riders. That was a really hot day!




She's US based now but she came up through the UK pony riding levels where 2 point isn't seen anything like as much as it seems to have become indoctrinated into the US hunter classes




But then I'm looking at McLain Ward and he's riding in much the same way - light half seat then full seat on immediate approach.


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## DreamerR (Dec 17, 2017)

SilverMaple said:


> OP, are you in control of the striding toward these fences and controlling where your horse takes off from by lengthening and shortening the stride, or are you pointing him at the fence and hoping he can find his own distance?


Unfortunately, after trying and trying, I cannot see distances. I asked my trainer about it and he said I didn’t need to worry about it because my horse will do what’s best for us (??). When I think I see a distance and I try to fix it I normally cause more problems, I believe I even made a thread about seeing distances. I have been counting strides into jumps to try and get it but that’s only helped me tell if it’s going to be an early stride or late so I know when to go into position so I don’t yank on his mouth.


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## falling (Apr 13, 2014)

Very interesting. A lot of new perspectives coming out at the moment talk about how important it is for a horse to learn to find it's own stride- particularly if you ever plan to do eventing. Otherwise you'll end up with a horse who requires you to put it perfectly to the base of the jump everytime, and when you don't, it won't be able to get you both out of it. That being said, a young horse does need to be taught where it should ideally jump from, so really there needs to be some give and take. Again, my perspective (NZ rider here) may differ from those in the US. 

More importantly in my opinion then finding a stride or seeing a distance is rhythm. If you keep up a good, balanced and rhythmatic canter that had the horse using its hind end, the distances will come up naturally. Especially at lower heights this should be your aim. This will also help you train your eye. 

I can relate OP I am terrible at seeing a distance!


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

Came across this article recently. 
https://www.horsemagazine.com/thm/2018/11/tad-coffin-explains-how-and-why-to-ride-in-forward-seat/




> The value of forward seat for the slow work, the work in trot and over cavaletti, is that in forward seat the rider doesn’t have to worry about catching up to the horse in the air with his balance. If we come to the jump in forward seat and are well balanced, then it is easier to develop a sense of timing for when you need to fold your hips, and when you need to go with the motion in the air. Forward seat is often a more relaxing balance for horses to jump from, because they don’t have to worry about whether the rider is going to be in balance or not. Forward seat is a very good exercise for Thoroughbreds who don’t have very strong backs. A nice forward seat at the trot, or at the canter, is a very back relaxing exercise.



No one says you have to stay in the same seat the entire course, but the idea you can't ride a course well without sitting down is wrong. For as many amateurs you see ducking, there's just as many grinding their seat and gripping with their knees(and still jumping ahead). There's a reason it's a common seat in hunters where it's all about smoothness. Don't need to pay $$$, either.


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## Filou (Jan 16, 2014)

Riding to a jump in a 2 point, 3 point, or half seat is not wrong. From the 2 point, you do not need to push forward to jump the horse. You do the opposite. You push your shoulder back and open your hip angle while in a 2 point as you approach the fence. This motion collects the horse by changing where your center of gravity is. Then based on your horse, you either push your hand forward to "drop" them right before the fence, and a good horse will not drop, or you keep your hand still and let your shoulder do the work to collect the horse the stride before the jump. You are pulling your shoulder back, waiting for the lifting motion of the horse to bring you up before a gentle break over in the air. 

I also feel that the op is at the point where many kids who want to show start showing, but we show a level under what we practice at home, so if she were a kid in a program here that would be trotting poles, and crossrails first, then to 2' fences. 

If in a hunter round I was sitting down, collecting, and pushing up to the fence 3 strides out I don't think I would be placing. Save that for the jumper ring. 

As for training a horse to have a nice flowing canter, I believe it depends on the horse. When you start them some horses can not deal with you sitting on their back, they may lack balance and ability to find their natural pace. When you 2 point and keep yourself up off their back it gives them more freedom of motion when they are learning to find their own balance and pace, which is extremely important as you teach them to search for distances to fences. Some horses do much better with sitting than others, they are reliant on your leg and seat to stay with your motion. I usually find that this happens later on for a horse, after they start to stretch forward then you can start to lightly sit down on them and maintain that nice canter. If you just start from a seated seat then their backs aren't warmed up, and especially if you don't have strength as a rider you might very well be slamming their back each stride, they buck, are resistant to going forward, or shoot forward, etc. 

My previous now deceased horse was a McLain Ward horse who he showed in Flordia in the Gran Prix jumpers. As for this video, I don't see him pushing with the seat, he's giving his cue to set her up using his hands. They elevate before the fence so the horse lifts her head and sees it. He's not dropping her before the fence, or doing any amount of unnecessary riding. When the horse is balanced he's even in a half seat around the turns, when shes not, he is sitting more. I see no half halt, gather, and push going on here. I see a horse with a great big stride that he rides to the T, he simply lifts her head to acknowledge the fence, and in the lines, since she's got such a great big stride, he sits down and half halts her a little both on entry and exit of the line, but I am not seeing him needing to push her up off the ground at all, shes got it! I even see a few fences where he's got it together he doesn't sit at all, it might look like it when the horses hind end rocks up, but he's still in a half heat rather than a full seat. 

To the op, if you keep riding enough jumps and practicing your flat work you will eventually see the distances, they eye develops later for some, as it did for me. When I first started I relied on the horse to take me to the distance. Being a soft rider I would ride a lot of nice green horses, but I could never ride them to the right spot, they just took me wherever. One day it just clicked for me, and I figured out how to ride the horse to she spot I wanted. You ride the fence out of the corner where you establish your pace, and if you time it well you won't need to make any stride adjustments because you will hit the perfect distance. If your horse needs help, put a ground pole out 6-9 feet before the fence. He will know what to do, or will figure it out. I have been training my young horse to wait and add several steps before a pole or fence, so that he will be safe for more timid riders who need that security of adding "when in doubt wait it out" type thing. Since I am too large for him, the best service I can offer him is how to control himself no matter what the rider does, but to also make the rider feel safe and to go slow for a novice rider while not risking injury to himself. He will be an amazing horse for someone learning to ride. 

Just one more thing I want to add, in jumping I think the skill required to ride in a 2 point is greater than riding in a full seat. You are taller when riding the 2 point, so your center of gravity changes, making balance more challenging. You need strong leg and core muscles, because now your only contact with the horse is your calf while you maintain that balance making movements of inches or less to control the horse. Here's an example that should be relate able for everyone, try riding in a full seat without stirrups, now try a half seat without stirrups, which was harder? Now imagine doing the same with no reins either, which position would be easier or harder to collect the horse from? The point is you need a lot of skill to ride the half seat or 2 point well.


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## Filou (Jan 16, 2014)

ApuetsoT said:


> Came across this article recently.
> https://www.horsemagazine.com/thm/2018/11/tad-coffin-explains-how-and-why-to-ride-in-forward-seat/


I just finished reading this and though this was worth quoting, since it's at the very bottom, people may not get there, and OP's horse is a TB.



> The forward seat doesn’t require any large degree of motion, or any sudden change of balance on the part of the rider – and any dramatic moves are not conducive to the Thoroughbred’s relaxation while jumping. Thoroughbreds have a tendency to read any sign of extra motion on the part of the rider as incentive to go faster. The aim of the forward seat is to develop a style that is very harmonious with the temperament of the Thoroughbred.


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

I'm on mobile, so can't like your post, Filou, but I would.

It is a very TB centric style of riding, but not limited to TBs. My WB really enjoys when I get off his back and let him do a big canter, but because he's a WB he let's me sit on him too and doesn't take much of anything special either way. I had a tbXqh who took after his Tb side in personality. It took longer before he was happy with you sitting on his back.

American Hunters was born on the back of the Thoroughbred. It's the last decade or two so that WBs are taking over, still plenty of blood in WBs tho.


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