# Hard to catch horses. What to do?



## Sunny (Mar 26, 2010)

Subbing!

For the first time since I have owned her Sunny is starting to become a booger to catch, so I'm interested in hearing opinions.
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## christabelle (Feb 13, 2011)

I was given a horse once that was difficult to catch. I coul still catch my other ones though, so I would line them up on the opposite side of the fence and give them all grain when the little one would run away. It worked great. She would run to me after doing that a few times. But if both are running... I would dispense with the treats (grain) myself, and only give grain at random times of the day when you want to work with them. Just an idea though. I've never had that exact problem.
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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

christabelle said:


> I would dispense with the treats (grain) myself, and only give grain at random times of the day when you want to work with them. Just an idea though. I've never had that exact problem.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 
I could try that I suppose. I have a sneaky feeling that they would learn pretty quickly that I was trying to pull a fast one. But I could try it and hopefully wean them off of that eventually.


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## Lakotababii (Nov 28, 2010)

1. Some horses become sour because all they do when they are caught is work. So when you do catch them, just brush them sometimes. (Or do whatever is enjoyable for them) Then let them go again.
2. Teach the horse how to join up. A join up can be done in a huge pasture (they do it to each other all the time). My horse has tried running from me too, but once I taught him to join up it got better. Now when he tries it I do a join up and then he is easy to catch and halter. Granted it takes some work the first few times since a join up involves some running at times, but it is well worth it. :wink:


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## Creampuff (Dec 1, 2010)

I'm subbing, too! 

My boy is a hard catch; we have to bribe him into a stall with some food and separate him from the other 2 horses to get him in there. His previous owners would use more than one person and then corner him, trapping him with a rope, and then catch him. So I have that to undo. 

So far I've caught him, grained him while I had him in hand, and then just brushed and walked around with him, letting him eat the lush grass outside of his pasture. We exposed him once to the hose and he enjoyed it. Then I turned him out. So far, still hard to catch... I know it's going to take a while but I hate having to make him feel cornered again in the stall. (I always talk to him, and stand stroking him for a moment before I halter him.)


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## Lakotababii (Nov 28, 2010)

Creampuff said:


> I'm subbing, too!
> 
> My boy is a hard catch; we have to bribe him into a stall with some food and separate him from the other 2 horses to get him in there. His previous owners would use more than one person and then corner him, trapping him with a rope, and then catch him. So I have that to undo.
> 
> So far I've caught him, grained him while I had him in hand, and then just brushed and walked around with him, letting him eat the lush grass outside of his pasture. We exposed him once to the hose and he enjoyed it. Then I turned him out. So far, still hard to catch... I know it's going to take a while but I hate having to make him feel cornered again in the stall. (I always talk to him, and stand stroking him for a moment before I halter him.)


Is your horse the curious type Cream? If so I would suggest literally just hanging out in the pasture, no rope, no halter. I used to read books, listen to music, etc. in my mare's pasture. She would come and eat grass at my feet. Doing this can really help them realize you are chill and are not there to "catch" them all the time but just to socialize. 

If you do this, be careful as of course they can get roudy and run you over. :-o


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## Creampuff (Dec 1, 2010)

He's "off and on" curious. The first day I had him I went into the pasture and sat down and began to take pictures of all the horses grazing. They'd move, then I would move (keeping a wide distance until I chose my spot to sit) with them. He came up to me twice during this before one of his pasture mates chased him away. 

The same day I caught him, groomed him and dug burrs out of his mane/forelock (basically pampered him), then turned him out. Then while I was standing and taking more pictures, he came up to me and let me stroke and itch him. 

But then two days after that he really wasn't that interested. Lol It comes and goes... I even "make myself smaller" when I try to approach him, with food or with camera, and it has the same effect; sometimes a great tactic, others an "as if" situation.


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## horseloverd2 (Jan 23, 2009)

I know someone who had a horse who was difficult to catch and she said when the horse ran away from her she'd bring a lunge line and when she did manage to catch the horse it got a good lesson in groundwork, right then and there. Then she'd bring her in and do whatever with her. And of course if the horse didn't run from her, it didn't have to do groundwork in the field.

Just a thought. I've personally never tried it, but I guess it would be worth a shot.


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## Sunny (Mar 26, 2010)

^ To me that sounds like a negative reinforcement. "As soon as you let me catch you, I'm going to make you work."

But that's just me.
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## horseloverd2 (Jan 23, 2009)

Sunny said:


> ^ To me that sounds like a negative reinforcement. "As soon as you let me catch you, I'm going to make you work."
> 
> But that's just me.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


I thought the same thing when she told me that. It seemed to work though.
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## Creampuff (Dec 1, 2010)

It also sounds like a training tactic I heard... I want to say it was Chris Cox?? 

The horse would run from him, and he would swing the rope and slap the end on the ground as he did so, which he compared to "sending the horse away in the round pen; as you would when it gives you the wrong answer." Make it work harder than it has to and it should put two-and-two together: I run away, so I work harder. I stand here, and don't get worked (at least not right away).

But I haven't tried that yet with my boy. He's already just shy of terrified enough about being caught without me chasing him all over!


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## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

If any of my horses ever decided to turn away from me when I called or approached with a halter, that horse would soon find out just how long I can make her run for! Every time she'd stop, I'd make her run some more. When finally she would stop and face me attentively, I would approach and halter her, then give her a treat. If she even blinked (figuratively speaking) while I was approaching, I would chase her again. Of course, this only works if you have the horse contained in a small enough area. On even a 2 acre field, it's exhausting to say the least, but I've done it.


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## AQHA13 (Apr 19, 2017)

I suggest that you put your horse in a small~ish pasture (for your convienience) and when he runs away just act like it was your idea. Walk after him and swing the rope while making noises to encourage him to run. The first couple of times I did this, my gelding bucked and tooted around the pasture for the better part of 10 full minutes! He got all sweaty and was huffing and puffing, when he actually stopped running to let me catch him. . It only took a couple of sessions and he has rarely ever given me any more trouble. On days when he is really bad, but then decided to stop for me I would just put the halter on do a quick walk around the pasture and release him as a reward.


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## LovesMyDunnBoy (Aug 11, 2011)

I had a mare who was an absolute pain in the rear end to catch! Well is she'd so much and take a single step anywhere but towards me, I'd put her to work! (Probably more work for me than her in a five acre pasture) then let her stop and approach her...same thing until she'd finally give up and be a good girl. Some times I didn't even put the lead on, and if I walked away she'd follow me. I assume like a join up? But that's what I'd suggest. Goodluck!
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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

Ok well I think I might stick with the quad then. My horses don't just walk, they run and manage to always be at the opposite end as me. I just can't keep up and in the mean time they are busy having a break. Hopefully they will figure out quickly that if they don't let me catch them the first time around, out comes the machine that doesn't get tired. The crazy thing is that neither of them are afraid of the quad outside the fence so they must know the difference. I know of other people that just have their horses in a smaller pen and then they are fine, but I like the fact that my horses can wander around a bit.
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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

I'm an old hand at this. Walk your horse down. Don't make it run. Carry a crop but only for an emergency. Stick it in your boot or carry it behind your back. Focus only on the one you wish to catch. When she stops to graze, ramp up your energy and run a step or two toward her and wave your arms. Just enough to get her moving. After 3 or 4 of these she will start watching you which is what you want. Don't talk to her. If she turns to watch you with both eye, back up a couple of steps then turn until your back is mostly toward her and bow your head and look at the ground. This makes you look smaller and your back is non threatening. She may come right up to you. Extend your hand so her muzzle can touch it. When she does, start walking away. If she doesn't follow you, resume walking her down and moving her off her grazing spot. Spend the time now, and it will pay off. By her touching your hand and your backing up you've taken the pressure off her. And horses have this thing about following what moves away and avoiding that which approaches. On the first day don't attempt to halter her. This is building trust. You walking down sessions won't last anywhere near as long on the next day that you do this. When she approaches just rub her all over, again, no halter or rope. Allow her to have a say in the matter. If she walks away, just wait a minute to see if she returns. If not resume the exercise.


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

I am the "feeder & treat" person. I am also the "hook up & the trailer & work your butt off" person. I mix it up so they never exactly know what kinda person I am at any given moment. My horses are cookie addicts, their addiction works to my advantage. *side note - I turn every horse into a cookie addict, they always follow their "dealer" hoping for a fix.


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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

The annoying thing is that if it was only one horse in there I know they would walk right up to me. It is totally a game for them and not the fact that they dislike or are scared of me. If I wasn't so frustrated I would actually laugh at my 4 yr olds expression while she is running, totally a look of her laughing at my slowness.
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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

Saddlebag: what do you do when they just run from one end to the other? Keep waking? In your experience, how long does it take for them to start thinking and stop playing? I would live to do the trust version over the chase them down version but like I said, they are always at the opposite end as me. Plus they totally feed off each other, if one thinks about moving the other one starts walking and then the original one starts running.

Waresbear: if only mine liked treats, they won't even eat carrots. 

I just find it so frustrating because as soon as I've caught either one of them, they are totally happy. I swear that my 4 yr old loves to be ridden more than being pet or brushed.
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## Wheatermay (Aug 22, 2011)

KatyS, my 3yr old is doing this all of a sudden too. I think its part b/c I have started her under saddle, and partly b/c I have been doctoring a cut on her foot. I had always shoulder blocked them until they give up, but she is in a friends field right now for a show coming up and she is harder to catch there... She was prancing, trotting, running, and bucking a little today. She had fun, lol...

Treats do not work on her. She loves treats, but she knows she's going to get caught, and she wont stay for the treat.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Kate, you are out for a leisurely stroll. Focus on one horse only and completely ignore the others. Just keep following that one horse. The others will quit running when they realize you have no interest in them. They will want to settle to graze. The horse you want will want to join them and graze. That is when you circle around until you are behind him even if 50' back then approach at the walk and if he doesn't move stamp your foot and wave an arm as you approach. Try not to have so much energy that he runs again, just move him off his grazing spot. Then go stand on it for a few seconds. By now he's likely eating again so move him off again and claim his spot. You want to do this until he watches you with both eyes.


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## pintophile (May 18, 2011)

I also second the walking down method.

Go out into the field with the halter and lead rope, and just follow the horse. Don't make it run, don't yell or get angry, just keep following. I don't like to run a horse because, as I've found from my personal experiences, forcing them to run just teaches them to do exactly that every time they see you coming. Maybe I didn't do it right? Who knows. I just have not found much success with running them. Also, when you get them running, it seems to put them in a flighty, fearful state of mind and of course, a horse doesn't learn when it's scared. 

Anyways! If it stops, push it on firmly but not meanly. Once the horse is willing to stop and face you and look at/pay attention to you, it can stop. The instant the horse stops, you stop your advance and take a step or two backwards. Then just stand there. If the horse looks like it wants to move off again or takes its attention off you, resume your advance and continue moving it on. As long as it stays still, you just stand still and keep watching.

Eventually, when it starts to relax (head down, licking and chewing, gives a sigh etc), then you walk up and stroke it. Between the eyes, then it's neck and so on. 

As long as the horse is relaxed with you near it, it's a win for you. You don't even necessarily have to halter it to have "caught" it. I can't say for sure if this is true for every horse, but all the times I've done it, I know I've done it right because the horse will follow me when I walk away. Though I also do not claim to be a trainer or vastly experienced horse person-the worst catching problems I've had to deal with were walking stubbornly away from you-no gallop-the-other-ways or unhandled ones yet.

Treats can help just as an extra incentive, but I wouldn't bribe a horse with them. You don't want to be sneaky or grab the horse as soon as you get near it. Just like everything, be open and clear about what you want, and take it slow and steady. 

I don't know how much I've left out...it's late, and I'm tired.


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## Sunny (Mar 26, 2010)

Wheater, I am in the exact same position as you.

Sunny is three and has just been started under saddle, and she has just started to get hard to catch because she knows she "has to work." I put that in parentheses because half the time I just get her out and walk her around or brush her.
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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

Ok that makes sense. I will try that. My horses are in a fence where there is no grass and they have free choice hay so it might take longer as there isn't as much incentive to stop. But I will definitely give it a whirl and keep mouth shut (no muttering under my breath haha) and just walk her down. I might bring some feed hidden in my pocket the first couple times just so she has more of a chance of wanting to give up sooner next time.
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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

I would like to stress that this technique works best by allowing the horse to be at liberty, no halter, no rope and no agenda. You are going out there to either move him around or just spend a little time with a soft brush and maybe a hoof pick, then backing up a few steps and leaving. I do this for a few days to a week and before long guess who's at the gate waiting.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

KateS, no pocket feed. We want her coming to you because she wants to, so no enticements. Your patience now will pay off in the long run. This is a good time to win her over if you can find and scratch some itchy spots, then walk away. Go sit in the hay for a while and just hang out. Then if she moves away as you approach, walk her down again.


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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

Ok so I should start out with just going without anything with the intent of just petting or brushing her. Once we have done that a bunch of times till she comes up to me I will start carrying her halter with me to get her used to that and then build up to actually putting it on and doing stuff with her. To be completely honest, I haven't been riding her regularily but I will still ride her inbetween these pasture sessions. I will do this with my 2 yr old too so they both are good.

Thank you so much for the help Saddlebag. I really appreciate it.


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## DrumRunner (Jan 26, 2011)

Alright, alot of you aren't going to agree with me but my trick works quickly and you don't have to repeat it often.. We have five horses on 17 acres and my sisters horse will run from you when you try to catch him.. I am not game for that and I won't tolerate it. Both of my horses come when called and get cookies and loved on. I don't just call them up to ride and work, I just go out to give treats sometimes. So, neither of my horses have this problem..Unless Tucker (sister's horse) makes everyone run. He will start it and chase the others around and I am NOT going to keep following horses are a pasture that big trying to coax them into coming to me.. Solution..I stand out in the pasture with a halter and a cookie.. Sister (or whoever) is on a golf cart/ fourwheeler/ dirt bike, or whatever you like. They get chased until they decide to come to me. I am the safe zone and when you come to me you aren't chased anymore and you get cookies. The quickly realize that if they run the fourwheler comes out and "Oh crap, here comes the chasing thing. Where is my person? She saves me." and they will come when called... I am not going to walk around for an hour trying to coax them in with feed or love when I know they are just being a butthole and keep running around.


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

I have 2 suggestions, and I think that they will help you. First, Julie Goodnight had a great program using your brain, and some body language. Here is a post which has her advice, but this particular program (on RFD.tv,) is really worth watching.
Julie Goodnight Natural Horsemanship / Horse Master TV Show
Also, my own experiences are helpful. When I first bought horses I had a small herd. They were NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE to catch, at least catch quickly. I felt like a fool running after them. It occurred to me that I might be able to get one or two to the gate if I took them outside of their turnout and fed them their grain tied up. I was right. The first horse to respond was in the middle on the herd. The NEXT day, it was my herd leader. I made a science of it. I demanded that each horse put his head over the gate and waited to be haltered before he/she could exit. Then I led said horse to his own spot to eat grain from his (rubber) bowl. Soon, each horse would obey and they'd exit the turnout in pecking order. I would return them in pecking order and I demanded that their head was over the gate before the halter came off. I did this for 14 years, before I got a place with them in the backyard, and they NEVER forgot and I NEVER had to chase them again.
I have been doing the same with my 5 yo colts today. After just a year of this they wait patiently, with a slack lead rope, with ME safely on the other side of the gate before they are released. IF one doesn't come right to the gate for ANY reason, I make sure to give the others a special treat within the "bad" horse's sight, so he can watch. The next time I don't have the problem. Hope this helps. I think it was the smartest horse training I ever did. =D


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## Kawairashii Ichigo (Jul 18, 2010)

I want to try the walking out method on my gelding. He's a real pain to catch. Sometimes he'll walk up to you and let you catch him, but every once in a bit he'll decide he doesn't want to be caught and DAM that pony can run! We have a huge field to and making a smaller section to keep him in isn't an option at the moment. Right now I think he thinks of it more as a game. He'll let you go up to him then just before you touch him he'll walk away, if you move at all once he walks he takes off like a twirp. Only thing is he won't necessarily go to the other end of the field right away, he'll just run around me in circles then come up to me, stretches his nose out and just as it ever so lightly grazes you he'll tare off galloping into the other field. then repeat this for hours until he finally goes in the walk in stall. xP Least he's not like this every time, but it would be nice to just get this out of the books. And saves on walking from field to field for who knows how long. That pony just doesn't tire out, the more he seems to work the more energetic he gets (Might have to do with being an arab. Though we're pretty sure he's crossed with a hackney). Even after a two hour work out ride session he'll be drenched in sweat and seem tired, but soon as the tack comes off he's good to play and gallop and buck/fart around for at LEAST another 20mins-half hour with his friend. Crazy little pony. So yah, I'd like to try this. xD


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## Kawairashii Ichigo (Jul 18, 2010)

Once he's caught he's an amazing pony, just every once in a while he decides to go through a "You aint gunna catch me O3o phase".. One thing I did find that helped though was if I knew I was going to use him that day just put the halter on him while he ate his grain, for some reason having the halter on really changes his mind frame and makes catching him no problem at all. Just for the days I don't put it on in the morning for whatever reason then need to catch him later. xP He is a rescue pony though so could have a bit to do with it.


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

We KNOW how smart they are, and how they'll make a game out of things! Although my old herd DID walk to me when I went out to the field to catch them, it didn't always transfer to other places. A few years ago I left the gate slightly open, and my Arab, Corporal, got out. He walked through the gate, knew I'd spotted him, so he then walked all the way around the (4-car) garage, just far enough away that I couldn't touch him, then took off through the town. This is where a good dog can help. My GS/Collie cross, Xena, was watching him, and watching me. I told her to go catch the horse, but I wasn't expecting much. Ten minutes he came back, herded by my good dog. She drove him right back into the turnout.
Caught him easily out in the field the next day for a ride, too. stinker...


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## balky cheeky charmer (Sep 7, 2011)

we have a horse at work that is really hard to catch, the only way to get him is to sit on the floor and pretend you dont actually want to catch him, hes so daft.


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## Courtney (May 20, 2011)

My horse is beyond easy to catch. Once I'm in his sight and he's looking at me, simply holding up the halter and calling his name is enough to bring him over.

For hard to catch horses, I walk them down. I've killed entire afternoons like this. I go out, walk for miles until I catch them, only to bring them out of the pasture, groom them and turn them loose again. It seems like a waste of time and energy at the time, but it pays off in the long run.


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## Sunny (Mar 26, 2010)

balky cheeky charmer said:


> we have a horse at work that is really hard to catch, the only way to get him is to sit on the floor and pretend you dont actually want to catch him, hes so daft.


This works for me, too.

As soon as I sit down in the pasture Sun walks right up to me to see what I'm doing.

She's probably thinking something along the lines of, "Yes! I finally killed her with my runaway technique!"

:lol:
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## Kawairashii Ichigo (Jul 18, 2010)

Corporal said:


> We KNOW how smart they are, and how they'll make a game out of things! Although my old herd DID walk to me when I went out to the field to catch them, it didn't always transfer to other places. A few years ago I left the gate slightly open, and my Arab, Corporal, got out. He walked through the gate, knew I'd spotted him, so he then walked all the way around the (4-car) garage, just far enough away that I couldn't touch him, then took off through the town. This is where a good dog can help. My GS/Collie cross, Xena, was watching him, and watching me. I told her to go catch the horse, but I wasn't expecting much. Ten minutes he came back, herded by my good dog. She drove him right back into the turnout.
> Caught him easily out in the field the next day for a ride, too. stinker...


You're so lucky for your dog! x3 
Both ponies broke out of the field last night and went for their town run as well. Dx For me it was the help of neighbors and their horses that helped me bring them back.


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## Camigurl (Aug 14, 2011)

TREATS! My gelding has his days. Sometimes i'll go to catch him and he'll come, other times, he runs. He loved peppermints, so i get the individually wrapped ones and when i get close i crinkle the wrapper. DON'T GIVE THEM THE TREAT TILL THEY'VE BEEN CAUGHT! I also had a mare, who would take the treat and take off in the same movement if i didn't have her first.  Just keep making candy noise until the halter is on, or at least a lead rope around the neck. Now, i just have a wrapper in my pocket and when he's a butt, i make noise and he stops. Hope your runners get better. It is NOOO fun chasing a horse around a large pasture....


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## Kawairashii Ichigo (Jul 18, 2010)

Camigurl said:


> TREATS! My gelding has his days. Sometimes i'll go to catch him and he'll come, other times, he runs. He loved peppermints, so i get the individually wrapped ones and when i get close i crinkle the wrapper. DON'T GIVE THEM THE TREAT TILL THEY'VE BEEN CAUGHT! I also had a mare, who would take the treat and take off in the same movement if i didn't have her first.  Just keep making candy noise until the halter is on, or at least a lead rope around the neck. Now, i just have a wrapper in my pocket and when he's a butt, i make noise and he stops. Hope your runners get better. It is NOOO fun chasing a horse around a large pasture....


Haha my gelding does the same treat and run motion to.  now I just wait till he's caught then get a treat. xD


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

Bribes always works so well. Bribe me, I will be caught.


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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

Bribing doesn't work so well with my horses. They don't like any treats other than grain and that is tough to carry in my pocket. My dilemma is that I know my horses are not scared of me nor do they dislike me. They are just horses that would just rather not do anything so if there is a possibility that they might have to work they will do what it takes to not work. Which is why I have a feeling that making them work before catching them is better than following them around all day. Respect is more important to me than having a horse "love" me. And if the lead horse wants something, he doesn't just follow the others around, he reacts and gets what he wants now. I like the theory of the horse to want to come to me right away but if they don't, I don't always have all afternoon to follow them around. 

I hope nobody thinks I am putting the walking method down. I can't put something down that I have no experience in. I respect everyone's opinion and I hope people will respect mine
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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

I read an article by a trainer years and years ago (think it was John Lyons) that in essence went: 

-Start with an area of a round pen. Walk up to the horse often throughout the day until they reach the point they will no longer walk away. While there you can do anything from pet them on the nose to brushing them. In essence you are not making them work and offering something pleasant in return.

-Once they reach the stage they no longer walk away, make the area a bit bigger. Rinse and repeat until they are in the full pasture and easy to catch.

This is the method I use and it works for me. I have that found once in a while they need a reminder, that usually only takes a day or two before they are back to their old, easy to catch ways.

I also have other tricks up my sleeve. My horses are taught to lead with nothing more then my hand under their jaw and also to lead with just a piece of bale twine around their neck. The string trick I was taught by a friend of the family that runs a stable and does a lot of ground training. The lead by the jaw thing I stumbled upon by accident, worked so well for me I started teaching all the horses to lead that way. 

The horses never know if I'm coming out to say a quick "Hi" or to make them work.


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## Jamzimm101987 (Aug 11, 2011)

I am currently training an Arabian gelding that is hard to catch. He is out with one other gelding and a herd of mares. When I go to catch him, the first thing I do is load of pockets with treat. When I go in the pasture, here is what I do:

Ignore the hard to catch horse. I make my rounds to the other horses and feed them treats, typically peppermints because they have crinkly wrappers. I make sure to really dote to the other horses and give them lots of attention and to also to crinkling the wrappers. After doting to one horse, I move on to the next. Eventually, the gelding gets jealous and comes over to inspect. STILL, I ignore him and continue feeding the mares and other gelding. Eventually I give the hard to catch gelding a few treats and then am usually able to slip the halter over his head, but if he at all seems suspicious...I feed him some treats and then walk away. If he seems comfortable, then I halter him. No sense in trying if he's only going to run away. When I do get the halter on, I completely 100% dote to him. Pet him, scratch him, treats, treats, treats.

Then I think to myself, "SUCKER! WORKS EVERY TIME." LOL

In all seriousness though, after I halter him, I make sure to make whatever experience we are going through as enjoyable as possible. I do feed a lot of treats, but I teach my horses that they only get them when offered and they are not allowed to investigate me for them.


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

Creampuff said:


> But then two days after that he really wasn't that interested. Lol It comes and goes... *I even "make myself smaller" when I try to approach him*, with food or with camera, and it has the same effect; sometimes a great tactic, others an "as if" situation.


 

I wonder if that might be a mistake. Making yourself smaller makes you seem more predatory, as if you are crouching and sneaking up.

Sometimes if I am approaching the herd and they act like they might decide to go somewhere else, I start to meander throught the grass, reaching down and plucking dandelions and really nosing around, like a horse would, to find the best yummies. Then I'll stand up, not really facing them but not turning my back either, and look with interest at what I picked, ignore them and keep wandering and "grazing" with my finders. Sometimes the movement brings me further away, sometimes closer. Invariabley, someone gets curious and walks over to see what I have found. I dont' put the halter on necessary right awya, but might look around on the ground some more, then feed them a dandelion blossom and just put my arm over the neck and reach down and take the rope from my other hand, and they are caugth. Then I usually give a small horse cookie or two, stand there for a bit, then walk off to the barn.


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

KateS said:


> Bribing doesn't work so well with my horses. They don't like any treats other than grain and that is tough to carry in my pocket. My dilemma is that I know my horses are not scared of me nor do they dislike me. They are just horses that would just rather not do anything so if there is a possibility that they might have to work they will do what it takes to not work. Which is why I have a feeling that making them work before catching them is better than following them around all day. Respect is more important to me than having a horse "love" me. And if the lead horse wants something, he doesn't just follow the others around, he reacts and gets what he wants now. I like the theory of the horse to want to come to me right away but if they don't, I don't always have all afternoon to follow them around.
> 
> I hope nobody thinks I am putting the walking method down. I can't put something down that I have no experience in. I respect everyone's opinion and I hope people will respect mine
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 

The walking down a horse works becuase the horse doesn't want to work. YOur following him and making him move is work. The first time you do it, he will not get it. He will just run from you, but as you follow him and watch for him to think about his choices (run away some more, or turn and think about it and face the chaser), you can catch that moment where he IS thinking and open the door for him to chose to NOT run. But if you miss that spot where he is thinking about not runinng, and you put pressure on instead of inviting him to draw in, then you will make him think he has not choice but to run.

So, when you are moving him, look for hime to "search" for something different than just run away. You have to really wathc his face and eyes and ear, and when you think he might be searching for a way out of the pressure OTHER THAN THE WORK of running away, you must pause, stop following and turn away a bit to "invite" him to change his mind. If he moves toward you, then you might even back up.

In a really hard to catch horse, you would do it in steps over a couple of days, with having him turn and take a step toward you as enough for one day (you turn away from horse and leave him alone for that day). Next day you want him to walk up to you, or allow you to approach to touching his nose, (then you leave him alone for that day) and the last step you have him approach, you pet him and put halter on. Maybe lead him some and then leave for the day. VEry last step you do all of the above, halter, lead, and walk him to the barn.

Takes a ton of patience. I seriously doubt I have the patience. Easy for me to write the process, but being the impatient one I am, I bet I would rush it.


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## christopher (Feb 11, 2011)

it's important to remember that if you're going to be using one of those "make them work by driving them away" methods, do not drive them any faster than you yourself are willing to run. because if the horse retreats from you faster than you can approach it, even though you probably think you are still approaching, the horse has put distance between yourself and itsself, so pressure has been taken off the horse. causing the horse to learn that just leaving is a good way of not being caught.


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## mom2pride (May 5, 2009)

tinyliny said:


> I wonder if that might be a mistake. Making yourself smaller makes you seem more predatory, as if you are crouching and sneaking up.
> 
> Sometimes if I am approaching the herd and they act like they might decide to go somewhere else, I start to meander throught the grass, reaching down and plucking dandelions and really nosing around, like a horse would, to find the best yummies. Then I'll stand up, not really facing them but not turning my back either, and look with interest at what I picked, ignore them and keep wandering and "grazing" with my finders. Sometimes the movement brings me further away, sometimes closer. Invariabley, someone gets curious and walks over to see what I have found. I dont' put the halter on necessary right awya, but might look around on the ground some more, then feed them a dandelion blossom and just put my arm over the neck and reach down and take the rope from my other hand, and they are caugth. Then I usually give a small horse cookie or two, stand there for a bit, then walk off to the barn.


That hits the nail on the head. DON'T sneak around your horse!!! You make him more suspicious of you, simply because you are creeping and sneaking about; act normal, don't crouch. 

I second the ignore tactic, as well, especially with a flighty horse; if walking him down, or once you get him standing still through some work, just wander about aimlessly in front of him...don't look at him, since that may make him wary and want to move off again. Walk around like you are looking for something on the ground, and gradually move in closer to him. When you get close to him at some point, stop, see if he will sniff at you, and when he does move away again...Approach, retreat, approach, retreat, until you can finally touch him all over, and halter him without him getting wary or moving off. If he moves off, you keep him moving, how fast is up to you, but he doesn't get to stand still unless by your choosing.


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## mom2pride (May 5, 2009)

KateS said:


> Bribing doesn't work so well with my horses. They don't like any treats other than grain and that is tough to carry in my pocket. My dilemma is that I know my horses are not scared of me nor do they dislike me. They are just horses that would just rather not do anything so if there is a possibility that they might have to work they will do what it takes to not work. Which is why I have a feeling that making them work before catching them is better than following them around all day. Respect is more important to me than having a horse "love" me. And if the lead horse wants something, he doesn't just follow the others around, he reacts and gets what he wants now. I like the theory of the horse to want to come to me right away but if they don't, I don't always have all afternoon to follow them around.
> 
> I hope nobody thinks I am putting the walking method down. I can't put something down that I have no experience in. I respect everyone's opinion and I hope people will respect mine
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


If you don't want to walk them down, then put their feet to work. Walking them down does work, it just takes longer to get there than if you can really make them move their feet. If you can, I would try to get a smaller pen built so you can do this on your feet; once you catch your horse looking and paying attention to you, like he wants to come in to be with you, you should be ready to stop and invite him in. It can be more difficult in a vehicle. You can also change directions alot easier if they are in a smaller pen, which I do alot when I am working with a 'catch me if you can' horse. I really make the point clear that, "fine, if you want to move your feet, move your feet, but you're not "just" going one direction". You can still work one horse at a time too, but you have to make sure you intentions are on that one horse; once the other horse realizes that he usually will go stand in a corner and not even be bothered when the other horse goes zooming by. I have used the "move your feet" method with large groups of horses, so don't be discouraged, they will catch on. 

My mare was terrible to catch when I got her last year, and now all she ever gives are half hearted attempts before she gives me her eyes, and stops; she's also in with another hard to catch horse now, so I am really proud of her! He will go to run her off, she'll make half a circuit and get away from him, and stop.


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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

The thing with a smaller pen is that I have no problem catching either horse. Even my outdoor riding pen which is 80 by 40, they don't try to get away. The problem is that this pen they are in now is the only other one i have. I think that maybe I will just make the one they are in now about half the size and see what happens. Maybe once they are in that till next summer, they will have learnt to stop trying to evade.

On the plus side, I went out this evening and just spent some time with them (didn't have time to ride) and they never tried to get away. On the other hand, it was practically feeding time. 

I think that on Saturday when I have more time, I will do the ultimate evil and park my horse trailer by the fence so she thinks we are leaving. Then I will go in and spend as much time as necessary to catch them. If she responds by continueosly running away I might run out of patience. Cause like Christopher said, by the time you are at the end where they were and they run to the other end the pressure has been taken off and they think they have escaped. If it doesn't work I will see what I can do about minimizing the pen and try again. I just honestly don't always have time to walk her out. The other day I needed to meet a friend an hour away with the horses and I spent half an hour trying to catch her. To me that is just plain unacceptable.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

I often spend what feels like half an hour just finding the horses! The 40 acre pasture is hilly, so they can be behind any one of the hills and I won't know until I commit to walking over them.

If the area is big enough that they horse can escape, you have to run a bit. You can put pressure on a horse from quite a distance. All it has to do is be enough to interrupt their thinking "away" form you. you can throw a stick in the area, swing your rope and snake it way out, stomp the ground , kick up dust, growl, . If it's really big, then it's hard to do this.

What I have done is put out some hay near the group feeding area, and when my horse came to partake, I have driven him off. I would not allow him near the food, while allowing all the other horses near, until he demonstrated contritness and lowered his head and came toward me begging me to allow him in. Then I halter him, give him a treat and then sometimes lead him off and let him have a few handfuls of hay on the ground before going up to the barn. 

I don't think that is really a kosher way of doing it, but it worked. Forty acres is too big to walk him down, so I needed a magnet to keep him near enough for me to push him around a bit.


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## Camigurl (Aug 14, 2011)

You could put grain in a bucket or something. Spend some time shaking it and make the noise and then give them some. Eventually, they will associate that sound of the grain in the bucket with the grain and it should work the same as the treats.


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## 3Nicks (Sep 13, 2011)

KateS said:


> As I said, I have had horses for 13 years and never encountered this problem. I know it is the 2 yr old that has taught the 4 yr old and I am not impressed. Please let me in on some helpful tips. I will do whatever it takes to have easy to catch horses again.


I am actually dealing with this issue for the first time right now myself. I've owned three horses in my life, and all three were no problem to catch, even in a huge field. I didn't need bribes or tricks, they just walked up to me. 

I just started leasing a mare who does not want to be caught. The first time it happened I was very discouraged. So I did some reading and used a method similar to what others in this thread have mentioned:

1. I go into the field with her halter and lead rope. I walk up to her boldly but not aggressively. As I approach, if I sense she is about to bolt, I stop my approach and instead cluck and swing the lead rope. Not in anger and not aggressively, just as if I am trying to ask her to move. When I cluck and twirl the rope she will either canter or trot off, and I walk in the opposite direction.

2. When she stops and starts grazing again, I approach again. I stop about 7 or 8 feet from her and hold my hand out to her, say her name, inviting her to approach me. If I sense she is about to bolt again, I put my arm down, walk five or six feet to the left or right to be parallel to her hip, and swing the lead again, clucking to get her to move. _Not chasing_--I stay put, just twirl the rope and cluck. Then I walk in the direction opposite to the one she ran off in. 

3. I repeat step 2 as many times as needed. After about three or four times, I stop sensing that she wants to bolt (she'll start cocking her ear to me rather than flaring her nostrils and stiffening up her body), and she will cautiously approach my outstretched hand. When she does, I give her a matter-of-fact rub on the forehead, then quietly turn and walk away. I do not try to catch her. I do this twice in a row (getting her to approach me, patting her forehead, walking away).

4. After twice getting her to approach me, rubbing her forehead briefly, and walking away from her, I will, on the third time, after rubbing her forehead again, rub my hand down her neck, pat her there, step up and calmly put the halter on her. 

The point of this is to get the horse to come to you w/o treats, tricks, force, punishments, or chasing. It takes patience, but I'll tell you the feeling is quite amazing. To take a horse that is "impossible to catch" and have it approach you in an open field makes you feel like you're doing something right. I have gotten more pleasure from this exercise than almost anything else I have done with this mare so far. I don't know if I'm doing it exactly by the letter, but I do know it worked like a charm and kinda blew my mind the first time I tried it. If you attempt this, do so with patience. Go into it thinking, "This could take an hour and that's OK. It might not even work today." I make a point of using no carrot, apple, grain, etc. Just me. I am very quiet through the whole exercise, except for clucking to get her to move, and saying her name when I am asking her to approach me. I might start using a hand signal instead of saying her name, just for fun.


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## SorrelHorse (Apr 9, 2009)

Julie Goodnight Natural Horsemanship / Horse Master TV Show

Julie hasn't failed me yet.


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## hillree (Dec 30, 2010)

Blissey was hard to catch when I bought her. This is how I handled it... it may not be the right way, but it worked for her.

I went out in her field to get her, equipped with her halter, her lead rope, and an apple. As I approached her, she started walking away. So? I drove her off. I ran after her and kept her going when she would've liked to stop and graze. I chased her for 20 minutes before she finally stood still and let me come to her. And as soon as I reached her, I offered the apple, stroked her, took her up to the barn, and just groomed her before letting her back out.

The next day, I did the same thing. This time, I only chased her for about 5 minutes before she let me catch her. Again, I gave her the treat, groomed her, and let her back out. Every time after that, she has not only let me catch her--she has WALKED up to me when she sees me coming! Although, it probably helps that her two pasturemates also walk right up to me. :wink:

Good luck!!


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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

Well I went out yesterday to water them and while I had no plans to catch them I saw that they were in a particularily hard to catch mood. So I grabbed a halter and lead and spent half an hour walking around. In the beginning they were racing around like they were crazy, after about 15 minutes they were tired and covered in sweat and they had slowed down a bit. It started off with the 2 yr old leading the charge and halfway through the 4 yr old was in front. Anyway, by the end all I was doing was walking 20 feet back and forth while they ran from one end to the other. I still had to fake out the 4 yr old a bit before she stood still but after half and hour she was finished. The only problem was that since they were covered in sweat I didn't really want to pet them. I was having a blast watching them work for no reason though. I will head out right after work and see if they still plan on racing around or if they have a bit more sense today.

Thanks for the walking down method... I have heard of it before but always imagined that I would get ticked off before they would give up. To be completely honest, at one point I was 2 steps from getting on the quad and chasing them but I managed to convince myself to just keep walking.


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## 3Nicks (Sep 13, 2011)

KateS said:


> Well I went out yesterday to water them and while I had no plans to catch them I saw that they were in a particularily hard to catch mood. So I grabbed a halter and lead and spent half an hour walking around. In the beginning they were racing around like they were crazy, after about 15 minutes they were tired and covered in sweat and they had slowed down a bit. It started off with the 2 yr old leading the charge and halfway through the 4 yr old was in front. Anyway, by the end all I was doing was walking 20 feet back and forth while they ran from one end to the other. I still had to fake out the 4 yr old a bit before she stood still but after half and hour she was finished. The only problem was that since they were covered in sweat I didn't really want to pet them. I was having a blast watching them work for no reason though. I will head out right after work and see if they still plan on racing around or if they have a bit more sense today.
> 
> Thanks for the walking down method... I have heard of it before but always imagined that I would get ticked off before they would give up. To be completely honest, at one point I was 2 steps from getting on the quad and chasing them but I managed to convince myself to just keep walking.


When your horses ran, did they keep running for a long time? When I have tried this method (swinging the lead and clucking to ask the mare to move in the field), the horses will run for 15 or 20 feet, then stop to graze. I only swing the rope and cluck for a couple seconds, until they start to move. Then I immediately stop and walk in the opposite direction and stop after about 10 feet. This is to show them that I am not a threat, and I am not stalking them (they are prey animals and follow the herd mentality). I let them rest and graze for a minute or two, then I cluck and ask them to move again. I only do that a couple times, then approach the mare, stop a ways from her, and ask her to come to me. If she won't, I cluck again and twirl the rope (again, not aggressively, but as if I am longing her and just asking her to move out). I repeat this until she will approach me when I call her to me. The point of this is to gain trust and make the horse see you as a strong leader. 

I know some people chase and/or run the horses until they are pooped, and that's one way to catch them. But it's not going to make the horse want to be caught the next time I wouldn't think, and you will end up always having to chase the horses for 30+ minutes any time you want to get one out of the field. And they'll be sweaty and tired before you've even ridden. Although maybe some do learn that they'll have to work either way so they might as well get caught, I wouldn't bank on it. 

It helps to have them in small area when you start trying this method. Although it apparently can be done in a 20 acre pasture (or whatever), I think that makes it trickier by far.


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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

3Nicks said:


> When your horses ran, did they keep running for a long time? *They would just run from one end of the pen to the other. About 300 feet (have never actually measured, just guessing) *When I have tried this method (swinging the lead and clucking to ask the mare to move in the field), the horses will run for 15 or 20 feet, then stop to graze. *We don't have any grass for them to graze as they have trampled it all. *I only swing the rope and cluck for a couple seconds, until they start to move. Then I immediately stop and walk in the opposite direction and stop after about 10 feet. This is to show them that I am not a threat, and I am not stalking them (they are prey animals and follow the herd mentality). I let them rest and graze for a minute or two, then I cluck and ask them to move again. I only do that a couple times, then approach the mare, stop a ways from her, and ask her to come to me. If she won't, I cluck again and twirl the rope (again, not aggressively, but as if I am longing her and just asking her to move out). I repeat this until she will approach me when I call her to me. The point of this is to gain trust and make the horse see you as a strong leader.
> 
> I know some people chase and/or run the horses until they are pooped, and that's one way to catch them. But it's not going to make the horse want to be caught the next time I wouldn't think, and you will end up always having to chase the horses for 30+ minutes any time you want to get one out of the field. And they'll be sweaty and tired before you've even ridden. Although maybe some do learn that they'll have to work either way so they might as well get caught, I wouldn't bank on it. *That makes sense. I was pretty much just longing them the whole time. I didn't have to swing the rope, I would just cluck to them to get them moving. It went kind of like this... I would walk towards them and cluck, they would then run to the other end and stop. I would start walking towards them and they would take off. If they were at the west end they would always stop until I would cluck and if they were at the east end (food/gate end) they would take off as soon as I got somewhat close. Now I might be totally wrong with this next part... My theory is that I would like to approach them at the gate end to be caught rather than the opposite end. Should I just forget about that and approach them anywhere? It isn't that they are easier to catch there (in fact it is harder) it is just that I would like them to always come to the gate to be caught rather than always walk to the other end. I totally get what you are saying about getting them moving and then let them stop for a bit and I try to do that but as soon as I start walking towards them they will move away right away. *
> 
> It helps to have them in small area when you start trying this method. Although it apparently can be done in a 20 acre pasture (or whatever), I think that makes it trickier by far.


 
*Am I doing something wrong or not quite right?*


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## Lakotababii (Nov 28, 2010)

KateS said:


> *Am I doing something wrong or not quite right?*


Here is how you know if you are doing it right: If they become easier to catch, or better yet, walk up to you. 
Don't think of it as right or wrong, think of it as progress, or none. Something may not work, or something may work better. 

Keep trying the way you did it. If that doesn't work, rethink your methods and try again.


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## 3Nicks (Sep 13, 2011)

KateS said:


> *Am I doing something wrong or not quite right?*


I'm by no means an expert. But I think the idea of the horse "being caught" might be hanging you up. I think what you want to do is convince yourself that the horse will come to you. 

I would start with just one horse. Pick one you want to work with on this and prepare to spend 30+ minutes quietly asking him/her to come to you in the field using the method I posted (if you're interested in trying that--it has worked for me but who knows if it works with all horses). 

Let them run until they stop. Then walk toward them and stop as soon as you see them tense up like they're about to run. Then cluck and ask them to move on. Eventually I believe they will stop running from you and you should be able to get the horse you're working with to come to you. My understanding of this method (it's based on the "join up" concept) is that the horse needs to come to you. If you try to approach and catch the horse, I think you will become very frustrated. 

I'm sure there are people here who understand this much better than I do.  I have only used it for a couple weeks and it has been a lifesaver.

This is similar to what has worked for me:


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## krise88 (Sep 15, 2011)

One of the barn I took lessons at as a kid had all the lesson horses on 24/7 pasture, so we had to catch them ourselves before the lesson. Quite a few of them were hard to catch because they would be caught just when they had to work, and not to be brushed or given food. What we would do was walk up to them with the halter and lead behind our back so the horses didnt see it, and that helped sometimes. For the ones that we were really hard, we brought out a bucket with a little bit of grain to get them to come close to us and then distract them while putting on the lead. The grain bucket can sometimes be a problem in a field with alot of horses though, so if there are alot of horses in the same field, put some treats or carrot in your pocket and just get it out when you are near your horse. The way to undo this though, is sometimes just randomly catch your horse to feed, or brush, or pet or anything else they will like. So that they don't think they have to work everytime they get caught.


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## 3Nicks (Sep 13, 2011)

krise88 said:


> One of the barn I took lessons at as a kid had all the lesson horses on 24/7 pasture, so we had to catch them ourselves before the lesson. Quite a few of them were hard to catch because they would be caught just when they had to work, and not to be brushed or given food. What we would do was walk up to them with the halter and lead behind our back so the horses didnt see it, and that helped sometimes. For the ones that we were really hard, we brought out a bucket with a little bit of grain to get them to come close to us and then distract them while putting on the lead. The grain bucket can sometimes be a problem in a field with alot of horses though, so if there are alot of horses in the same field, put some treats or carrot in your pocket and just get it out when you are near your horse. The way to undo this though, is sometimes just randomly catch your horse to feed, or brush, or pet or anything else they will like. So that they don't think they have to work everytime they get caught.


Yes, this is how people handled hard-to-catch horses when I was a kid, too. They would try to trick them (hide the halter, shake a bucket of gravel to make it sound like treats or grain), but this stuff does not solve the underlying problem. The horse should be taught to approach you. Like I said, I'm not an expert. The horses I've owned were never hard to catch. But the horse I'm riding now has been bolting when I go to get her, and this "join up" method worked automatically and led to much less frustration on my part and a less stressful time for the horse.


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## ReiningGirl (Oct 4, 2011)

The ranch I work at has a horse (16 year old reining mare) that stays in during bad weather and gets let out in good. If the weather is off for a couple of days and then she gets put out once its nice, she doesn't want to come in. Her running gets one of the other horses in the pasture fired up and they both go streaking around the pasture full tilt. I find that for me, if some one is having trouble catching her, I'll put some grain in a small bucket, stand on the other side of the fence and rattle it a bit, while having the person who was chasing turn their back on the runaway horse and stand by me. Once I have their attention, I turn my back on them and shake the bucket a few times. The other horses in the field come to see what I have, and the runaways get curious and follow. Once she's in reach, I have the person who was chasing approach her and she's willing to be caught!

I've learned over the years that food is a universal tool for horses (she only GETS a little touch of grain when she's in hand and well mannered) as is understanding body language. For horses, a prey animal, a front to front approach is seen as a predatory approach. Especially a horse outside thats been cooped up for a few days! Turning ones back on a horse or approaching them in a wide arc that ends with you side by side, is a more friendly approach.


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## 3Nicks (Sep 13, 2011)

ReiningGirl said:


> I've learned over the years that food is a universal tool for horses (she only GETS a little touch of grain when she's in hand and well mannered) as is understanding body language. For horses, a prey animal, a front to front approach is seen as a predatory approach. Especially a horse outside thats been cooped up for a few days! Turning ones back on a horse or approaching them in a wide arc that ends with you side by side, is a more friendly approach.


The front-to-front approach (squaring up with the horse, looking him in the eye) is used to drive him off, as in "join up." When you can tell the horse is ready to join you, you do not look him in the eye, you look away and turn your body sideways. The method I was taught (based on "join up") is to ask the horse to move, then walk away from him. Then ask him to move, then walk away from him. Then approach him (stop about ten feet away) in a non-threatening manner (no eye contact, relaxed body posture) and he will approach. It can take a while, but it does work and is absolutely not an unfriendly or aggressive approach. It's the kind of thing you see trainers do in a round pen, but with some modifications it can also be done in a field.

The problem with using food to catch a horse is...what happens if you don't have any food? You're out on a trail and your horse gets loose, say? Now what? Another problem with using food--and I've seen it plenty of times--is the the horse will approach your enticing grain bucket or carrot, but then when you go to grab him he ducks his head and takes off. So the food can usually draw him near, but you're still trying to move lightening fast to get that halter on him before he takes off again. A horse can get wise to the trick quite quickly. But if the goal is just to catch a horse immediately (the vet is there and you have to get him out of the field NOW), the food method is definitely one to try. For actually working on the problem, though, I prefer the horse-to-human communication version, letting the horse learn that you are in charge but not a predator.


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## Kawairashii Ichigo (Jul 18, 2010)

What I do with mine is since the second he sees me holding a halter or rope he'll take off (And you can spend HOURS sending this pony off, it just gets him going even more the longer you spend) I go out randomly throughout the day with a small treat (Even if I cut up an apple into eight pieces and only give one or two at a time) so the time I do want to catch him I have a piece of yarn ties around my waist, I give the ponies their treat and pet them like normally then hold onto his mane and put the yarn around his neck and lead him back to where the halter is that way. Seems to work, you just gotta be sure to do the treat thing afterwords to at least once. Has been making it much easier, though we still have our moments, but they don't last NEARLY as long anymore when they do happen to happen. Mine was also beat by his previous owner with random things, ropes and halter not being the harshest, but not being excluded, so it's kind of a trigger for him the second he sees someone walk out with one. Once he's caught he's amazing however, it's just to get past the first bit to work on the next without spending an entire day trying to do so.


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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

Ok well I don't think the treat thing will work as my horses don't like treats, plus like 3Nicks said, I want my horses to learn to approach me just because I am there, not because I have a treat. To me this is a huge respect thing which is really frustrating for me because (not to toot my own horn but) my horses have insanely impeccable ground and riding manners. I am never mean to them but they always listen because I am the boss and that is just the way that the world turns haha. I haven't worked my horses in a while for reasons I am not going to get into but they aren't running away because they think I am going to work them, they are running away because they don't ultimately respect me until I can touch them.


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## ReiningGirl (Oct 4, 2011)

3Nicks said:


> The front-to-front approach (squaring up with the horse, looking him in the eye) is used to drive him off, as in "join up." When you can tell the horse is ready to join you, you do not look him in the eye, you look away and turn your body sideways. The method I was taught (based on "join up") is to ask the horse to move, then walk away from him. Then ask him to move, then walk away from him. Then approach him (stop about ten feet away) in a non-threatening manner (no eye contact, relaxed body posture) and he will approach. It can take a while, but it does work and is absolutely not an unfriendly or aggressive approach. It's the kind of thing you see trainers do in a round pen, but with some modifications it can also be done in a field.
> 
> The problem with using food to catch a horse is...what happens if you don't have any food? You're out on a trail and your horse gets loose, say? Now what? Another problem with using food--and I've seen it plenty of times--is the the horse will approach your enticing grain bucket or carrot, but then when you go to grab him he ducks his head and takes off. So the food can usually draw him near, but you're still trying to move lightening fast to get that halter on him before he takes off again. A horse can get wise to the trick quite quickly. But if the goal is just to catch a horse immediately (the vet is there and you have to get him out of the field NOW), the food method is definitely one to try. For actually working on the problem, though, I prefer the horse-to-human communication version, letting the horse learn that you are in charge but not a predator.


I do agree with this method of "joining up" - I guess the food/body language/curiosity approach works really well with some horses, just like joining up will work for others. But there are always lots of methods that can work for you. Try out a few and see what works best, then work with that method. Consistancy will also help - once you find what works, use it! And don't ride everytime you catch - groom, pamper, bathe (if your horse enjoys that) and so on - and if you do ride, maybe change up the horse's scenery! Ride outside if you have the facilities, go to a trail, maybe close up the arena and let them have a little roll and run? Sometimes it's not the riding that makes them shy to come in, it could be barn/work sour too!

There are all sorts of things that could be going on - and there's all kinds of good advice on here from lots of people! Just find what works for you!


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## MHFoundation Quarters (Feb 23, 2011)

I also use the walking them down method. Simple & effective. They will go in a smaller lot (my smallest is about 3 acres) to do it in. I only have to use it for outside horses that come in. Mine all come when I whistle


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## KateS (Jul 3, 2008)

MHFoundation Quarters said:


> Mine all come when I whistle


I can't whistle  When I was younger I always dreamed of whistleing and having my horses come to me. I will be happy if they come when I call too.

The thing that is sooo frustrating is that my 4 year old had never ever thought of running from me before. Even when I had a friends horse for the summer she always came trotting up to me and was always eager to go for a ride (whether on the trails or in the barn). 

Like I said previously, I haven't actually worked them in quite a while. I have just been going in to feed them twice a day and then a couple times a week I would go in and just pet them and hang out.

My plan for the rest of the year is just to work on getting them to come to me when I ask and not really work them at all. My 4 yr old will be heading off to a barn with an indoor arena in January and that will be good and the 2 yr old will be alone for a couple of months which I think will help her to need me more. Her current attitude is, I will listen to you but not need you. Haha and there is the next 6 months of my life.


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## MHFoundation Quarters (Feb 23, 2011)

KateS said:


> I can't whistle  When I was younger I always dreamed of whistleing and having my horses come to me. I will be happy if they come when I call too.


Don't feel bad, I can't blow air out & whistle, I have to suck air in. My 6 yo daughter is better at whistling than I am. :lol:

Bringing them in for things other than work will help a lot too. Several of mine are only used for lessons. I know for certain that Jana would run away when called if i didn't bring her in on ocassion just for a groom & snack session. They are smart & lazy for the most part, if they can avoid work, they're going to.


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## TheChelseyDee (Sep 24, 2011)

Monkey see, monkey do!

Bring out a little bucket of grain and shake it to catch them. I don't play those games with my horses. Also, start catching them for no reason. Bring them out for grain and stand there with the halter and lead on. Take them out to brush. Take them out just for a walk down the road. Take them out to hangout in the yard with the family. Take them out to clean their feet, get a treat, then go back.
If you only catch them for food or work, they're going to figure out that when there's no food, it only means work.


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## 3Nicks (Sep 13, 2011)

TheChelseyDee said:


> Bring them out for grain and stand there with the halter and lead on. Take them out to brush. Take them out just for a walk down the road. Take them out to hangout in the yard with the family. Take them out to clean their feet, get a treat, then go back.


To do any of this you first need the horse to come to you in the field. :lol:


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## Twister rox (Sep 3, 2011)

I had a mare that was hard to catch this spring. (previously had to be corned and chased for 30 min.) We had 10+ horses in the same 40 acre pasture. So trying to catch her was a challenge. She never had feed before but I found that she liked it. When I was on the farm working, I would stick my hands in the feed bucket (get them smelly and dusty with feed). Then walked out to the pasture. She would eventually come over (after all the other horses) and sniff me. I would do this 2-5 times a day on the wknds. After a month, I could walk out there and catch her without a pail or feed on my hand. When I would catch her, I would not always make her work. Sometimes she got pampered other times not. Sometimes she would get a treat, other times not. My goal was for them to make the choice to be with me, not because of treats or pampering. Years ago, we had an arabian gelding that didn't want to be caught. He would let you get so close and then prance around in circles. I would turn my back to him, put my feed pail down in front of me, and then he would walk up to me. Very frustrating but he was a little odd.  Every horse if different. Hopefully you find something that works for your horses.


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## caseymyhorserocks (Apr 5, 2010)

I agree with SaddleBag and Corporal!! I may be getting an unhandled resuce miny- and so obviously its very hard to catch- and will be trying the walking method!


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## Ladytrails (Jul 28, 2010)

I've used the walking method, too - with the join-up style. What also works for me in the small herd that we have (4) without requiring me to run back and forth across a large pasture is to cause the horse to run away if they won't allow themselves to be caught .... and then not let that horse rejoin the herd. Usually mine come up to me but once in a while my TWH mare decides she doesn't want to be caught. The other horses are always gathered around me so all I have to do is get between them and the TWH. It doesn't take very long for her to decide to face me and stand to be haltered. It's a variation on the join up method, with rejoining the herd being the reward and release of pressure.


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