# A fence that is sure to keep horses IN.



## Saranda (Apr 14, 2011)

My BO asked me for a favour to post her problem here. We have a herd of 12 horses, 5 of which are the BO's horses, and the rest - private. They live 24/7 pasture boarded in huuuuge pastures, that are fenced with an electric fence. The electric tape goes in three cords, is powerful and the horses respect it. However, two of the BO's horses keep escaping - a young gelding and the lead mare of the herd - by breaking the insulators and then slipping through the cords. The worst part - as the main escaper is the lead mare, the rest of the herd often follows her, and it might end up dangerously, as there is a busy road not far away.

We need ideas, how to keep them in, and there aren't many. Making a metal or wood fence is too expensive for how large the pastures are, so making a seperate paddock for the escapers is an option - still, money is tight so the paddock would have to be just electric fencing, which they go through with no problems. There was an idea to use barbed wire, but it is very risky to start with, or keep the two horses in a chain during day and in the stall during night, but we'd really like to keep them outside - just not escaping.

Any ideas and input how to cope with such situations without extremely high expenses are welcome.


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## Joe4d (Sep 1, 2011)

properly installed 4 strand high tension cable. Electric and they wont break it.


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## TimberRidgeRanch (Mar 6, 2012)

I find electric tape not a good fencing for horses as its primary use is for temperary fencing. It tends to stretch sag and the threads in the tape break causing weak pulses. I would switch atleast two strands with electric rope or the plastic covered wire ( seen on RAMM web site ) www.rammfence.com
They also give helpful tips and ideas.


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## usandpets (Jan 1, 2011)

I would say to get a more powerful fencer. The zap they get now doesn't phase them. Up the zap and they will learn to stay away quickly.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Saranda (Apr 14, 2011)

Thanks for the tips, everyone. I really like the wire idea.
The fencer is currently the most powerful around here - meant for bushy areas and to keep deer, wild hogs and moose away.


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## usandpets (Jan 1, 2011)

How is the grounding for the fence? If you don't have a good ground, it doesn't matter how powerful the fencer is. How about having one of the wires getting change from a hot wire to a ground wire. If they touch both, they would get zapped.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

Electric tape has a whole host of issues so you need to run solid wire. But, once a horse learns to bust an electric fence they'll keep doing it unless you knock them on their asses. 

What I would do is disconnect everything but the one run they keep breaking. Replace the tape with two runs of solid wire, not a bad idea to leave a non energized tape as a marker. Now, also run a well grounded wire between the two hot wires to ensure a good hot zap. Test it with a tester, that baby should be snapping hard. 

Next, you say one horse is the main problem (lead horse). Take that horse out and make sure they get hit hard by it. I like to try suckering them, some you can and some you can't. If you can't, make sure you are not in a position to be jumped on and push them into it. This should instill some serious respect of your new fence. If you don't do it, they may break it without getting a serioius shock so learn nothing.


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## Saranda (Apr 14, 2011)

Darrin, that seems like an excellent advice. I've already sent to the BO and it seems like a plan we'll be doing.


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## starlinestables (Nov 24, 2008)

Whats more expensive? A good fence or paying massive vet bills or law suits because the horses keep getting out? Repeated escapes scream negligence in a suit. t-posts and 4 strand barbless wire with a top electric wire isn't that expensive especially when you can find used t-posts on craigslist frequently. If it were me, I would sell a horse to pay for it. Actually that's exactly what I did when I had to completely replace 52 acres of fencing (on property I lease). Part of our pasture faces a busy road and we check it weekly. Some parts are double fenced. There also used to be a lot of rocks in our pasture that over time were picked up and placed along side the fences.. its a natural barrier that keeps them off the fence. In fact, the parts with rocks are the only parts we haven't had to tighten or fix in some way. 

If replacing the whole fence isn't an option, doing it in sections (starting with the high traffic areas first) should be a consideration too. Good luck! )


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## Saranda (Apr 14, 2011)

Thanks, starlinestables.


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## caseymyhorserocks (Apr 5, 2010)

No climb mesh fence- woven wire fence with holes less than 2x4 inches. Not that much money actually, use t-posts for the majority of the fence although wood posts are preferable in high stress areas. I like your idea of separating the horses, just make a separate area of no-climb mesh or something.


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## filtration (Apr 2, 2012)

*Woven Wire Mesh*

With the woven wire mesh, I am having a little trouble understanding what size you are suggesting to use here. When you say "woven wire fence with holes less than 2x4 inches", are you referring to something along the lines of the 2 x 2 or 4 x4 wire mesh seen and sold here? Custom Wire Cloth - Belleville Wire Cloth Co - Cedar Grove, NJ

I was looking at possibly trying something along those lines, but I was not sure if thats what you meant. Also, what alloy would you use? Stainless Steel is obviously the best choice here, but it can get a little pricey. How about galvanized steel?


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## kevinshorses (Aug 15, 2009)

My horses are in a pasture with a 5 wire barbedwire fence. As long as the corners are properly installed and the wire is kept tight it WON'T cut a horse. Tight barbwire only scratches a horse and they stay away from it. If they get a leg through tight wire they either will pull it out with little consequence or the wire will break and free the horse. Loose barbwire can get wrapped around a horses leg and saw into the flesh. 

I agree with Darrin as far as electric fence goes. If that fence is working properly then you shouldn't be able to drive a horse through it. If you touch it and don't see Jesus then it's not working right.


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## Cowgirls Boots (Apr 6, 2011)

I wouldn't use barb but I agree with Kevin. If it is tight it shouldn't do more then a scratch to them. My horse is in 60+ acres which most of it is fenced with barb. He (being young and stupid) decided he wanted to go exploring and tried jumping the wire (which was loose) got a good cut under his armpit and a few good scratches..I hate barb but there is nothing I can do until they remove it all. Thank god my boy didn't need stitches but it was still a pretty nasty cut that was open. It's healing great now but I wouldn't suggest putting barb up unless you want some nice vet bills. And if you absolutely must put it up atleast run some strands of electric up too so they will stay away. Barb is no fun :/
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

The costs of GOOD fencing is a little heart-stopping. It took $27K to fence in my 5 acres in 2008, with 5 separate and gated areas. It won't need to be done again in a VERY long time, is safe and the fencing is NOT friendly to any jumper.
If you cannot afford good fencing for a big area, consider fencing your culprets in smaller areas that are escape-proof. We all LOVE seeing our horses run free in acres of turnout but many horses are very happy moving around in even 12 x 20ft enclosures.


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## caseymyhorserocks (Apr 5, 2010)

filtration said:


> With the woven wire mesh, I am having a little trouble understanding what size you are suggesting to use here. When you say "woven wire fence with holes less than 2x4 inches", are you referring to something along the lines of the 2 x 2 or 4 x4 wire mesh seen and sold here? Custom Wire Cloth - Belleville Wire Cloth Co - Cedar Grove, NJ
> 
> I was looking at possibly trying something along those lines, but I was not sure if thats what you meant. Also, what alloy would you use? Stainless Steel is obviously the best choice here, but it can get a little pricey. How about galvanized steel?


I sent you a PM.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Three strands of electric does a good job. Two hot and the middle is ground. The hot top will will deliver a good shock but the middle is needed is snow areas. With 5 strands there are 3 hot and 2 neutrals or grounds.


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## roanypony (Apr 5, 2012)

We use poly tape which is I believe what you are using. We made a ground consisting of three long rods into the ground and then connected the ground to out middle strand of polytape which made that a ground as well. The top and bottom lines are hot so when they touch either of them, they get zapped. When they touch the middle strand of polytape( the ground) and one of the other hot strands, they REALLY get zapped. Our pasture there is about 3 acres. We use a solar fencer(a big one) and we don't have issues.

We grounded the middle line because in the winter we were having issues with the snow and the horses not making a complete circuit. They were getting out alot. Overall, polytape is not the best choice by a longshot but, it's what we have and will have til I can redo it. It looks nice, but that is about it


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

I use 4 strands of electric braided rope (not the thin twine) with the top and third strand being "hot". We have had it for 2 years in an an area where we get almost every weather extreme imaginable. It works very well but must be installed properly and kept at the recommended tension. I like it because it does "give a little" and is easy to work with. The rope seems to keep the electrical strands quite well protected and intact even where it feeds through the insulators.

The electric tape isn't great as it easily frays and breaks in the wind. I also found that the electric strands within the tape break easily, stopping the flow of current. The tape is also weak where it goes through the insulators because it moves so much and rubs. The insulators themselves that are used for the thicker tape are also not as durable and break easily.

Regardless of what you use, it is very important to buy the very best connectors and insulators that you can get. Don't cheap out on how the fence is anchored to the end posts and tightened. Buy the proper tools to do this. Also, expect to have to check on and maintain any fence on a regular basis and keep supplies on hand to repair it properly (i.e. splicers, crimpers, etc).


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## uii (Dec 26, 2011)

I would never used barbed wire. Horses don't see it clearly, and can become stuck in it, and that can lead to bad cuts on horses, especially with horses who try to get out often.


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## Saranda (Apr 14, 2011)

Thanks for the great input, everyone. We now have two strands of polytape and two strands of wire, properly ground, and the horses haven't been able to break through anymore.


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

Good job! Would of loved seeing a video of the first time they touched that new, hot fence.


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