# Wire fence experience?



## MouseZ (Aug 16, 2011)

Hello all! 

First time posting in this part of the forum, and as usual, I have a question:

My partner and I are in negotiations to purchase our first home. Which happens to be an acreage. Most of the land already has posts in to be fenced, but isn’t strung. 

We have an EXCESS of wire that’s been offered to us free to use for the fencing if we want it. Anything free in this stressful time is carefully considered haha

It is COATED 22g wire. I emphasize because I wouldn’t consider it if it was bare. The horses are all lazy low energy animals that respect fences except to grab a mouth full of grass outside it when able to. 

Any one used 22g coated wire before? Any thoughts on why it wouldn’t work? Picture of one of the spools for reference.


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## JCnGrace (Apr 28, 2013)

I might use it for cross fencing (I'd have to get a hand on feel to know for sure) but I'd want something sturdier for perimeter fencing.


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

I don't know what 22g means so just going on your pic. It looks thin & flexible, so not suitable for the main fencing wire. Why would you not use uncoated? I use high tensile(so it doesn't stretch) plain fencing wire. I only use soft/flexible stuff on my electric runs.


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## pasomountain (Dec 19, 2018)

One of my boarding barns uses something like that. They have five strands across with a hotwire also. It keeps all the horses in except one who has figured out how to walk through it. He doesn't do that very often but it sure gives us a scare if we can't find him right away!


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Wire you are considering using...
22 gauge = 0.025 inches and = .64 millimeters thick

High tensile smooth wire is 
.25 =1/4 inch thick
12.5 gauge = 0.099 inch thick

So to put this in terms of what most can see and feel in their hand for "how thick is it"...
Not knowing how many strands of wire is inside under the wrapped coating...
Each strand though is about as thick as a thin piece of paper.
Knowing it is that thin, was this used for underground phone lines run from a junction box to a house...cause that is coated wire and looks like that does what my house phone has.... and it breaks real easy.

The lower the number the thicker the wire...
So most livestock/horse fence {woven wire} is at least 14 gauge and gets thicker with HD woven I've seen at 12.5 with top and bottom wires at 11 gauge at my local Tractor Supply.
Electric wire, just wire or coated wire is 12 gauge..

I just did replacement fencing so did some research about thickness and longevity vs. cost before making a substantial investment.
So, your 22 gauge wire I would equate to the thinnest of spaghetti....angel hair.
Where most horse fence would be thick spaghetti or linguini thickness...big difference.
Most extension cords people have in their homes are 14 or 16 gauge wire for example...now remember you have 3 strands of wire, then a insulation wrap and then the outer covering...but the wire itself is thin per strand.
Thicker usually also = better current conductivity...at least in my experience using power tools.

I would _*not*_ use it anyplace myself for livestock containment even if electrified.
So thin it will take no abuse from even a small limb bouncing on it nor a gentle wind will have it breaking inside.
I would not use it for interior cross-fencing either.
To me, you get what you invest...
Good livestock fencing if doing wire needs to be able to not sag or break in a little breeze when posts are spaced anywhere from 8' - 16' apart.
People stringing hard woven wire do 8' - 16' lengths between posts commonly, and those who do electric wire often go further distances....that "free" wire is just not going to fit the need in this case I fear.
Save it for some other project, but as wire to keep the horses on the property or in designated areas inside the property, I would pass.

So, would I use it for horse fencing application.._*no!*_
:runninghorse2:...


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## LoriF (Apr 3, 2015)

I think that 22 gauge is a little thin, most use 12 for horse fencing. That wire won't be free when the horses get out and damage something or themselves.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

And coated reduces the shock it transfers if it were to be electrified. The thinness means you could potentially melt the wire depending on current or surges.


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## MouseZ (Aug 16, 2011)

QtrBel said:


> And coated reduces the shock it transfers if it were to be electrified. The thinness means you could potentially melt the wire depending on current or surges.


We weren’t planning on electrifying it.


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## MouseZ (Aug 16, 2011)

loosie said:


> I don't know what 22g means so just going on your pic. It looks thin & flexible, so not suitable for the main fencing wire. Why would you not use uncoated? I use high tensile(so it doesn't stretch) plain fencing wire. I only use soft/flexible stuff on my electric runs.


I saw a post saying uncoated is super dangerous and is can injure horses but maybe I misunderstood


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

It's way too thin--- it will cut like a cheese grater if the horses hit it, and no way it will hold them without being electrified. It's far thinner than even the cheap, thin electric cord one can find at the farm store. 

If cost is a concern, I would go with electrobraid or electric tape or the 16' wire premade cattle panels (depending on your post spacing) for your fencing, and fence in a small area to start with, making it larger as finances allow. This wire isn't made for horses and will cause more trouble than it's worth. I wouldn't trust it to contain my animals safely, and they are easy on fences.


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

Wire I have is thinner then wire pictured. Only difference is it's actually fencing wire. Never have had luck with the tape type fencing or the electrobraid rope fence. 

I have flagging ribbon on all the fence so it can be seen. And fence is hot so horse's stay away from it if off for a few days my gelding will walk through it never been sliced open from it. He also has gone plowing through it at a dead run un cut, not even a scratch on him. 

I would use it for interior fence lines. To be honest no fence is so called safe, if there's a way for them to kill themselves they will find it.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

MouseZ said:


> We weren’t planning on electrifying it.


This to me is huge in wire that is that thin and not "hot"...
My horses are very respectful of wire and fencing in general...but they will test to see if it is hot and then the test comes to the push and pop of the fence and out they would go.
Something so thin and not hot...not for any horse/pony or mini that I know of...This is not going to keep anything inside where you want...escapee happening.
If you want to string wire only and not electrify it...although not friendly to horse skin being pretty delicate...barb wire.
And then you have options of 2 barb, 4 barb or barbless, again as soon as you remove "hot" you also remove much of the respect horses have for it. However, barbwire is significantly thicker in appearance than what you showed..
Horses also show some respect for it because the barbs bite when they push against them...for a animal that can feel a fly land on their skin...
But for the same reason they also can ignore and just pop through that thin a wire with ease..





MouseZ said:


> I saw a post saying uncoated is super dangerous and is can injure horses but maybe I misunderstood


Un-coated is more dangerous to me because the "sharp" of impact at force is significantly more than a wire that is covered with a layer of plastic/vinyl taking out the severity of the cut..
Don't get me wrong, wire no matter the type can cut and cause significant damage and so can rope or anything else when force and strength meet together with a loss of thinking brains and a accident occurs.
I prefer if using wire that it be coated for several reasons, the biggest one being visibility to the horse as white or black/yellow strung to my eye is better seen. 
I will assume that is true for horses since they can't speak and tell us...however, thicker or "larger" if you want to think of it this way, is often focused on easier.
The only color I know that this not hold true for with most humans is...
Plain black actually is trickery to the eye and you focus past or around it but not on it...
My mother had chain-link fence in her yard, black covered...standing looking from the house 75' out her back yard you did not see the fence, it blended in to the surrounding area...invisible.

That's my take on what you make comment about...and why.
:runninghorse2:...


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## MouseZ (Aug 16, 2011)

horselovinguy said:


> This to me is huge in wire that is that thin and not "hot"...
> My horses are very respectful of wire and fencing in general...but they will test to see if it is hot and then the test comes to the push and pop of the fence and out they would go.
> Something so thin and not hot...not for any horse/pony or mini that I know of...This is not going to keep anything inside where you want...escapee happening.
> If you want to string wire only and not electrify it...although not friendly to horse skin being pretty delicate...barb wire.
> ...


I appreciate the in-depth answers  

My first choice for if I had to purchase fencing is “Finishline”. I like the easy install and low maintenance aspects. Since part of the fence is in trees, I also liked that it can withstand tree damage. 

Any thoughts on it?


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

I just googled it as the name is not one familiar with...
The opening page and what is looks like strung behind the horse, to me is a resounding yes.
Appears a nice fence, done in several strands...
_*My only thing is no t-posts, caps on them or not...*_
I don't like steel posts and my horses in proximity to them.
Horses can get injured on anything others say and it is probably true...
T-posts the caps fall off of to easily and they have terrible sharp edges to the top that rip skin.
I had a bad experience when working at horse farm the neighboring farm used t-posts...
Bringing in horses one night we heard screaming of panic and ran next door to help and see what the crisis was...
A horse, a mare had impaled herself on the post when she kicked at another horse...she tore herself loose but was a horrible mess.
I still see the horrors of those posts and *will not* have my horses anywhere near the things...
Other than that..
I like the look of it and the fact you can see it..
Ramm fencing has something very similar as do several other fencing companies. I've seen ads in published periodicals.

:runninghorse2:....


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## MouseZ (Aug 16, 2011)

horselovinguy said:


> I just googled it as the name is not one familiar with...
> The opening page and what is looks like strung behind the horse, to me is a resounding yes.
> Appears a nice fence, done in several strands...
> _*My only thing is no t-posts, caps on them or not...*_
> ...


We already have wood posts in so we’d be utilizing those


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## COWCHICK77 (Jun 21, 2010)

Coming from someone who used Romex(AWG 14) in a pinch when I ran out of smooth wire to wire up some panels to RR tie posts, I wouldn't use it.

The coating becomes brittle and will come off and I have found my steers, bulls, calves and horses like to chew on the coating.


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## rmissildine (Feb 1, 2019)

MouseZ, One thing to remember, the larger the number in wire gauge, the smaller the wire. 22 gauge is like phone or electronic wire. In an an emergency, I wouldn't consider 22 gauge unless you could twist 3 or 4 strands together for a run. Then, it would only be temporary.
We use 14 gauge hot wire. If the horses are calm and respect the fence boundary, that would work. We have two strands, 14 on the top and 17 on the bottom, which is soon to be replaced with 14 gauge. A lot of folks don't use T-posts, 99% of our 12 acres are T-posts, never had a problem and we don't have caps, just saying.


Good Luck


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

horselovinguy said:


> High tensile smooth wire is
> .25 =1/4 inch thick



Lordy lordy! You can get wire that thick?? Surely it would be called rod. And how would you work with it, especially if high tensile?

High tensile over here at least just means it's been treated(with heat maybe) in such a way that makes it a lot less stretchy & bendable. Plain fencing wire comes in different gauges here, whether high tensile or not. The stuff I use is (guessing) 1.8-2mm thick.

OP, as HLG said, maybe it's telephone cable. The only paper thin strands of wire twisted tog together & wrapped in plastic is electrical wire. But you couldn't use it as regular electric fencing either because it's wrapped in plastic(which is prob not uv resistant & would perish quickly in the sun tho). If you want to set up an underground dog fence it might be good for that tho.


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

SilverMaple said:


> It's way too thin--- it will cut like a cheese grater if the horses hit it, ....
> If cost is a concern, I would go with electrobraid or electric tape or the 16' wire premade cattle panels


I think it would just break before cutting a horse.

Cost is one reason I use plain wire. It is about $130aud/1500 meters. Electrobraid or even electric tape is way more expensive and panel fencing doesn't even bear thinking about, cost wise - couldn't even afford a small yard of that stuff.


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

rmissildine said:


> MouseZ, One thing to remember, the larger the number in wire gauge, the smaller the wire. 22 gauge is like phone or electronic wire. In an an emergency, I wouldn't consider 22 gauge unless you could twist 3 or 4 strands together for a run. Then, it would only be temporary.
> We use 14 gauge hot wire. If the horses are calm and respect the fence boundary, that would work. We have two strands, 14 on the top and 17 on the bottom, which is soon to be replaced with 14 gauge. A lot of folks don't use T-posts, 99% of our 12 acres are T-posts, never had a problem and we don't have caps, just saying.
> 
> 
> Good Luck


Same here 98 percent of our fence post are T post un capped never a horse hurt on them. Caps wouldn't last anyway my horse would take them off. Good percent of horse people here use T post un capped. Seen horse's injured from wood post...fatally injured. 

He takes connectors off when fencer isn't on..


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

We use the rubbery post caps on the few areas of the fencing with some t-posts -- they stay on and the horses don't mess with them like they did with the plastic caps. We have hi-tensile with one strand of electric tape hooked up to a strong charger so the horses can see it and stay away from it.


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## MouseZ (Aug 16, 2011)

Do some people use ALL electric wire or tape? Or they use it in conjunction with other materials always


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

My neighbor has older livestock fence with a live "hot" wire across the top so her 4 horses do not challenge her fence.
She knows it needs replacing and is almost ready to start the project she financially saved enough now.
Others I see use just wire in a combination of looks.
Some use tape, some use that electrobraid appears as striped wire when strung and then some use just wire but all use several strands of it if not used with a livestock, woven wire, horse fence application combination.
I also see barb wire and electric combinations more often when horses are present keeps the horses off and away from the fence.
I have horse fence with top board and am seriously considering "hotting" one wire across the top to get both the neighbors & my horses off the fence pushing and scratching so hard they have now snapped 3 boards...one zap and they will stop that nonsense.
My woven wire horse fence might last another few years and not look so aged and it is only 2 years old this fall....grrrr!
I know if I "hot" I too will be zapped hard in forgetfulness...:icon_rolleyes:
:runninghorse2:...


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

I'm not close to an expert on fencing materials. Pictured looks like hot wire. I'd only use that if you actually electrified it otherwise they'll just walk through it. Definitely need a solid perimeter fence, be that board or wire(barbed or smooth. Brabed only if it's large areas). 

My last barn used a lot of hot wire. Whole property was perimeter fenced and then paddocks were 4 boards. Pastures were divided with hot wire as needed. Using the hot wire would allow them to have the horses in the yard during the day to graze that down, easy to move around. All board and perimeter fences had a single strand across the top. Never known anyone to be injured by the wire. It would break easily. If you keep it hot most of the time, then you can use sections that aren't hot temporarily and they usually won't touch it.


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## rambo99 (Nov 29, 2016)

We have a combination of fencing some is only wooden post most are T post. Some woven wire with hot wire on top some just hot wire with twisted barbless wire for second bottom strand. Then some is just rail fencing no hot wire on that section of fence. Here's a few pictures. We have changed fencing re done fence, and just when we think we got it done it needs fixed re done again. Like everything else in life doesn't last forever.


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