# Do you need a back cinch for the first saddling/first ride?



## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

I should think so. if you are doing a lot of uphill and down, or roping, or quick stops, the saddle might shift. Depends on how it is rigged, too. Centerfire rigged saddles do not need a rear cinch.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

When I start mine I like a rear cinch so they get used to it from the beginning. Also, if they start bucking it helps to keep the saddle more still and keeps it in place better. Tiny is right on as usual. I don't start with a breast collar but, like to add one as soon as possible just so they get used to the feel of it.


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## boots (Jan 16, 2012)

I know several people who never use a back cinch, and some who only use them when roping. If you can't afford a new saddle, I wouldn't stress about it, or feel guilty.

I also take in horses ridden english, for rehab and legging up. I put my ranch saddle on, do up both cinches, lunge them a couple circles, and away we go.


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## AtokaGhosthorse (Oct 17, 2016)

I'm no trainer, but we have two that were born to us, one is now 4 and the other is coming 2. We started both with a flank strap long before their first rides. If you can't swing it now, I wouldn't worry too much, but you might consider looking around for a colt saddle or a breaking saddle... for cheap. You can find a junky old saddle for 50 bucks on FB or CL... or just by asking around. I have two here at the house that aren't worth even selling or stripping the hardware off and taking out the trees for parts salvage... I keep them solely for those first few saddlings and standing around saddled. I wouldn't ride one like that... they usually don't fit quite right and are super junky... don't want to sore up your horse or blow a stirrup out... But. You can rig it with both the cinch and flank strap and at least introduce your horse to wearing one, so when the day comes that you get another saddle, or God forbid have to sell your horse, they'll have already experienced it and will understand it won't eat them or claw open that soft underbelly... because the next person may absolutely expect to use a flank strap.


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## its lbs not miles (Sep 1, 2011)

In over 50 years of riding I have never used a rear cinch. Not even with working cattle. I did use (and still technically use with how my current saddles are rigged) what we use to call a "Y" configuration, where the front and rear straps connect to the same cinch. It keeps the rear of the saddle down and that's everything I need.

My new saddles have an nicer configuration where I can make adjustments for how I want it to fit and it will keep them the same every time so I don't have to readjust them every time I saddle up. Wish I had this back in the day LOL.


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## AnrewPL (Jun 3, 2012)

A rear cinch is dependant on the rigging position of the saddle and possibly with your skill at roping.

As a rule of thumb full double rigged saddles really aught to be ridden with a rear cinch as that rigging position is designed to be ridden that way roping or not; whereas anything from ¾ to centrefire shouldn’t really need one even if you are roping. 

If on the other hand you aren’t much good a sliding rope, like me, or just not much good at roping in general, also like me, I have found that a rear cinch helps stabilize things a bit. So, on my ¾ rigged wade I also have a rear cinch.

Now, if you are worried about stability and your saddle isn’t set up for a rear cinch, there’s a way you can put a temporary one on. I have done this with my half breed Australian saddle that is 7/8 in skirt rigged (Probably more like ¾ now I have taken a photo of it) and has no rear cinch.

I started a horse who’s back more resembled a 44-gallon drum than a horse once, and after she bucked and ditched me hackamore, saddle and all, I decided I needed something to maintain a bit of stability. So, I rigged it up like I have illustrated with my awesome Paint skills (I’m being sarcastic, at myself, my paint skills are NOT awesome). Unfortunately, I pulled the rig apart because I wanted the brass rings for something else, but the picture should give you the jist of it. 

The red lines represent leather straps, 3 of them, one coming from the front rigging on each side connected to a ring (the orange circle) hanging under where the cantle meets the bars then another connecting to each ring and going over the rear jockeys snug up against the cantle. The green line is the rear cinch billet, one hanging from each ring. I laced everything together, however you could rivet it all and lace it onto the front rigging. You also need to be careful to make sure its all even.


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## AnrewPL (Jun 3, 2012)

hang on, its been a while, relearning to insert an image


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## AnrewPL (Jun 3, 2012)




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## AnrewPL (Jun 3, 2012)




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## Kaifyre (Jun 16, 2016)

its lbs not miles said:


> My new saddles have an nicer configuration where I can make adjustments for how I want it to fit and it will keep them the same every time so I don't have to readjust them every time I saddle up.


Mmm, that's a nice setup, what kind of saddle is that? Looks almost like a Specialized? Me likey.

-- Kai


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## its lbs not miles (Sep 1, 2011)

Kaifyre said:


> Mmm, that's a nice setup, what kind of saddle is that? Looks almost like a Specialized? Me likey.
> 
> -- Kai


The saddle was made my Randy Aldrich (Sharon Saarre Saddles) It is a custom job with features from some different saddle designs that he has. He was really good at giving me what I was looking for. Best fitting saddle I've ever put a horse, but he has about 13 or more different trees that his fitters use and he customized the closest fitting tree to match the individual horse based on photos and measurements that the fitter takes and send him (and it cost less than most custom saddles from the big name makers that are fancy, over priced and don't fit the horse as well). Both my horses use the same tree, but there are slight modifications between the saddles to match each horses specific differences.


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