# Build along on a horse trailer ramp



## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

I posted awhile back that I was going to build a trailer ramp. I've got it started now and I thought I would post for those who are interested in adding a ramp to their trailer. The back of my trailer sets about 17" off the ground leaving a long step for the horses but, also makes putting the top saddle in the rear tack a real stretch.

First measure from outside of your rear doors to outside. This is an important measurement as this will be the width of your ramp. Any wider and it could cover the rear lights.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

*Following..... *

Now for the good stuff to begin..  
🐴...


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

I am a hoarder according to my wife. When I was working I had some rectangular aluminum tubing left over and brought it home and stored it in my machine shed. I had 4 pieces of 2"x 3"x 1/8" x 21' long. For this project I will need 2 of those pieces. Usually ramps are made of 2"x 2" tubing so mine will be heavy duty (for draft horses?). I will use the tubing with the long leg vertical which is the strongest direction and be on 12 1/2" centers, that will give it super strength. Here is the framing print. I just did a top view since I'm lazy'


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

The next step is the attachment angle that the hinges will attach to on the trailer side will mount at the same place and use the same bolts that currently hold on the rubber bumper pad at the back of the trailer. I hope it shows up well in the picture.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Here is one from the side.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Measure the length of the rubber bumper and that will be the length of your attachment angle. Mine is 6'-8". Next find the center to center location of your bolts. Here is a picture of my print of the hole layout print and also note the rounded edges on the ends. These are very important in case your horse hits it. Without them he/she could get a nasty cut.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Sorry double clicked!


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Next I'm going to cut and assemble the ramp support frame. There is a cut material list on the first print. I'll need 7- 3'-8" 2x3 tubes and 2-6'-3". Lay them out with a square and I cut mine with a hand held saber saw with a 18 tooth aluminum/metal blade. It cuts the aluminum very well. Be sure to check factory cut ends and make sure they are square, sometimes they are not.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Next assemble the frame on the floor of the shop and check fit up. Nothing a welder hates more than a poor fit of materials. It makes welding difficult and more costly. When fitting up make sure it squares up correctly measuring to diagonal corners and getting equal measurements.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

If all fits good then, it's time to weld it .I'm going to leave the bottom of the frame exposed when folded up at least for now so I'm going to make it brushed finish. It's a very easy process of sanding exposed surface longitudinally with a inline sander or/and by hand with 120 grit sandpaper.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Next I'm shifting to the ramp mounting angle that attaches to the trailer. I am drilling the holes per the print starting with a 3/16" pilot hole and then drilling them out to 7/16". Then I'm attaching the hinges. Two of the hinges have Zirk fittings for greasing the hinges. The third hinge in the middle has a removable pin to make it easier to install the ramp by pinning it first then bolting in the other two. At the end of the build I will give a list of all materials , where purchased and cost. I set the hinges back 1" from the end of the ramp to give more grip for the bolts and that will also make the span on the hinges less. If there are any questions as I go along feel free to ask.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)




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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Before attaching the hinges to the ramp frame I ripped down a 4x4 to fit inside the tube the hinges will attach to, then no matter how tight the bolts are they won't collapse the tube.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Next I sat the frame and attachment angle up on saw horses and drilled then attached the hinges with plated bolts. Note the hinge with removable pin is located in the center. That will make it easier to install the ramp frame when the attachment angle is mounted on the trailer. The plywood deck and rubber non-skid mat will go on after all connections are made and frame work is attached to the horse trailer. An option to a rubber mat is to paint or liquid rubber applied to the plywood then while wet throw sand on liberal;y.







et throw sand liberally on it. The liquid rubber is a cheaper way. Now to wait for a warmer day to attach it to the trailer.


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## JCnGrace (Apr 28, 2013)

This is interesting to follow @ksbowman , you're quite the engineer!


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

@JCnGrace , Thanks, I didn't know if many were following it and finding it of any value. Anyone can do this and it is a real money saver and asset to a higher trailer.


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

I’m following it, ksbowman, just so you know. I had a ramp put on my first trailer (two horse bumper pull) but it was heavy and got to the point I was struggling to lift it. My second trailer did not get a ramp. Now on my third trailer (having moved up to a three horse bp by this time) this one seems like a high step so your efforts may prove useful to me later😊.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

FYI, The ramp frame at this stage of construction only weighs 60#. It will have a helper spring on it before I'm finished that will make it very easy to lift up and down.. The finished weight I am estimating at 80-90# and the hinge will carry half of that when in the down position. That would make the lifting weight form the ground about 45# and the helper spring should bring it to a very light weight 5-10# with the right helper spring.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Well we are down to the short rows and this will look like a ramp very soon. We have to have a separation isolator between aluminum and steel and our attachment angle is steel. I just took duct tape and applied it to the contact surface of the attachment angle.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

I bought a 4'x8'x 3/4" five ply plywood for the ramp deck. It is now 4'x6'-3" which covers the top of the ramp. Next I prime painted it white since the trailer is white and made sure to get a good coat on the edges since they will be exposed to the weather. This will be the down side of the ramp.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Next we have to take off the rubber bumper off the back of the trailer so we can install the ramp attachment angle.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Tomorrow the angle goes on and the ramp support frame.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Well it was a good day. Put the support angle on and did some minor massaging and it fit fine.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Then I bolted the ramp frame on to it. Fit like a glove and raises and lowers very well.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Here it is in the raised position . It clears everything just as it should.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

View from other side. Next will be laying plywood deck on the support frame and doing layout for mortising the wood out so the plywood sets tight against the frame.


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

Would you reuse the rubber bumper on the underside of the ramp, ks?


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

No, I'm just going to store it. The attachment angle uses the same bolts and bolt holes that the rubber bumper does so there is no place to attach it. I did consider putting it on the end of the ramp but it would be too long and rather than cut it off I would buy a new piece to go there if I decide on putting one on.


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## Dreamcatcher Arabians (Nov 14, 2010)

This is all way over my head, but I'm going to save it in case I decide to try to have a ramp added to the Featherlite. I know someone who does this kind of work, has all the tools and such, and no doubt would be familiar with all the vocabulary you're using that's beyond me.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

@Dreamcatcher Arabians , Wish you were closer I'd be happy to help on one. It's a pretty simple fabrication job. If you have someone that can build things show them the thread and drawings.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Here is the deck being put on. I'm setting it on to locate the cut outs for the hinges. While I have it in the shop I'll put the anti skid surface then screw it down. I'm using 5 ply 3/4" thick plywood which is the strongest they make.


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## Dreamcatcher Arabians (Nov 14, 2010)

ksbowman said:


> @Dreamcatcher Arabians , Wish you were closer I'd be happy to help on one. It's a pretty simple fabrication job. If you have someone that can build things show them the thread and drawings.


I will. He's a fabricator so does this kind of thing for a living and I know speaks the lingo. It LOOKS simple enough, but I have zero skill with that kind of thing and none of the tools.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Today I put the latches on to lock the ramp in the vertical carrying position. Note the latch on the ramp swivels to the down position so it won't be up and the horses could step on it.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Then I put a lift handle in the center of the ramp to make it easier to get ahold of and lift it.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

Next I put the ramp deck on. I chose the cheap route and painted it and while the paint was wet I put Granite poultry grit on it to make a good anti-slip surface. For the last Item I will mount a lift assist spring to make it extremely easy to lift up. The total weight of the ramp is just shy of 100# and without an assist spring it takes about 40# to pick it but for some folks that is more than they care to pick so I'll add one.


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## JCnGrace (Apr 28, 2013)

Excellent @ksbowman ! Do you think you'll have a problem with a horse stepping on that handle when they're backing out and either bend or break it? Mine would aim for it every durn time knowing them.


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## ksbowman (Oct 30, 2018)

I don't think so but, I was just looking on line tonight at a triangular rudder bumper that I may mount on it to make it blend in even more. If they did bend it it is only a $5 piece and very easy to replace. It sure gives and easy grab though for raising.


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