# Panic Snap... An age old debate!



## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

To the halter, but I don't use crossties, only use the panic snap in the trailer.


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## NBEventer (Sep 15, 2012)

I've never seen it snapped on the wall, anywhere I have ever been it has been on the halter. Interesting thought though.

I've seen the panic snap give when the horse is in full panic mode so it's not like it doesn't give.


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## rookie (May 14, 2012)

I have seen panic snaps give in a panic situation. I have always attached them to the halter. I have also seen horses break halters, leads and brass hardware in a panic. 1000 pounds of freaked out animal can do wonders in hind sight having the panic strap towards the wall would in theory at least give you something grab onto when the horse calms down and can be caught.


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## COWCHICK77 (Jun 21, 2010)

Never used them at all so I didn't know there was a debate as to where they were attached :shock:


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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

See, I've looked at the mechanics of the snap. I'm pretty sure the clip on the snap has to be retacted to allow the release. Otherwise the rest of it is solid, so I don't see how the snap can "self release".
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## NBEventer (Sep 15, 2012)

I've seen it self give plenty of times. I used to have a mare who would flip the heck out when being hot shod. Tried half a dozen times and each time she sat on her butt flying backwards and the panic snaps self released at her halter and she was free. They gave before her leather halter gave.


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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

NBEventer said:


> I've seen it self give plenty of times. I used to have a mare who would flip the heck out when being hot shod. Tried half a dozen times and each time she sat on her butt flying backwards and the panic snaps self released at her halter and she was free. They gave before her leather halter gave.


I believe you, but I've always seen the halters break first. Either you have sturdy crown pieces or we have cheap ones! :lol:
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## Amba1027 (Jun 26, 2009)

I usually see them attach to the halter. Only one place, that I can recall, had the panic snap on the wall end. Never heard a debate about which is correct though.
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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

Interesting, on Wikipedia (the worlds most credible source :wink that the advantage to such a snap is it's load baring capacity and the ability to release the snap under pressure. They also said it was used in dog sledding... Now why would they want it to release there?
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## skiafoxmorgan (Mar 5, 2014)

At my barn, the snaps are on the halter, and the bull clips are attached to baling twine tied to the walls. Not great if a horse is supposed to learn about tieing, I suppose, but when Deo fell asleep in the crossties and FELL OVER, I was happy to deal with broken baling twine instead of broken straps or halters. lol


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## Cordillera Cowboy (Jun 6, 2014)

SlideStop said:


> Interesting, on Wikipedia (the worlds most credible source :wink that the advantage to such a snap is it's load baring capacity and the ability to release the snap under pressure. They also said it was used in dog sledding... Now why would they want it to release there?
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


When a dog team gets discombobulated, the lines and harness get tangled and tied in knots. The quick release allows you to disconnect each dog quickly and get things straightened out. It's also usually very, very cold, and your fingers don't like to cooperate. (I'm not a musher, but I know a couple.)

I've never really given much thought to which end connects to what. My first thought would be clip it to the wall so that when you release it, you still have a lead attached to the halter.


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## JCnGrace (Apr 28, 2013)

The only place I use panic snaps is on trailer ties and when I first got my own trailer I fastened the panic snap to the halter like I'd always seen it done. Then one day I was getting ready to fasten my horse up and the thought hit me about why everyone does it that way when it would make more sense to fasten the panic snap to the tie ring in the trailer so that you would have a bit of a lead in case you needed to unfasten. I turned the trailer ties around and have used them that way since.


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## picup436 (Nov 22, 2012)

I have the panic snap attached to the halter. Reason being is that if a horse does go to town, it lets go and falls away from their face. If it's the other way around you then have a lump of metal on the end of a rope being flung around the place risking more upset and injury. Any worries about catching the horse afterwards can be prevented by leaving a rope attached to the halter and flipped over the horse's neck to keep it out of the way.


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## verona1016 (Jul 3, 2011)

I have a trailer tie with panic snap and it's designed to have the panic snap attached to the trailer's tie ring, not to the halter: https://www.smartpakequine.com/tiesafe-ties-1620p The other snap end of it won't even fit over the tie ring. It does say the panic snap will release in an emergency.


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## DraftyAiresMum (Jun 1, 2011)

I wonder if panic snaps release on their own based more on torque than on weight put on them...

FWIW, I've had a horse bust a bull snap on me. He was tied to a metal hitching rail and I was grooming him. Went to brush his neck on the right side, he freaked, sat back, and the bull snap sheered in two. Lead rope was less than four months old and was always kept inside, too. 

Guess my point is, no snap is infallible.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

picup436 said:


> I have the panic snap attached to the halter. Reason being is that if a horse does go to town, it lets go and falls away from their face. If it's the other way around you then have a lump of metal on the end of a rope being flung around the place risking more upset and injury. Any worries about catching the horse afterwards can be prevented by leaving a rope attached to the halter and flipped over the horse's neck to keep it out of the way.


Now how would you get to a horses face of they are set back, thrashing, rearing, or whatever?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

verona1016 said:


> I have a trailer tie with panic snap and it's designed to have the panic snap attached to the trailer's tie ring, not to the halter: https://www.smartpakequine.com/tiesafe-ties-1620p The other snap end of it won't even fit over the tie ring. It does say the panic snap will release in an emergency.


I this think tie (which is the majority of the ones we have now) pretty much proves the point. The catch strap on the the side with the regular snap, the panic snap is up by the wall.
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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

Cordillera Cowboy said:


> When a dog team gets discombobulated, the lines and harness get tangled and tied in knots. The quick release allows you to disconnect each dog quickly and get things straightened out. It's also usually very, very cold, and your fingers don't like to cooperate. (I'm not a musher, but I know a couple.)
> 
> I've never really given much thought to which end connects to what. My first thought would be clip it to the wall so that when you release it, you still have a lead attached to the halter.



I get why they would want to use panic snaps, but I don't get why they would use them if force or torque caused them to release.
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## gypsygirl (Oct 15, 2009)

It should not give under pressure and should be released by the human when necessary.

Always put the release end on the wall. If you have ever seen a horse freak out, you can't always get to their head. It makes no sense to attach it to the halter.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

Eh, I don't know, it seems to me that there are good and bad points to each way. If it's attached to the halter, then you have to put yourself in great danger to try to reach and release it.

If it's attached to the wall, it's easy to release, but then your horse will have a heavy chunk of metal swinging around on the end of a short lead when he's running away.

Growing up in the life I've lived, being around some of the horses we've had come through our barn, I've seen everything get broken; snaps (no matter how big/heavy), halters, buckles, lead ropes, tie rings, everything.


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## Shropshirerosie (Jan 24, 2012)

I'm not sure if mine are 'panic snaps' or something else of a quick release nature. Anyway, I used to put the quick release end on the wall because it made sense to have a lead rope there to use if I had to use it.

Then...my youngster panicked in the trailer and backed up. I had to pull the quick release to avert a disaster and the (then very stretched taut) lead snapped back hard. I was extremely lucky it didn't whack my horse in the face, but it was sufficient to illustrate to me why I should always put the panic end at the horse. Better a stretched rope snaps back away from a panicked horse than at it.

So, I am now with your farrier on this one.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

I keep a set of pruning shears handy. It happened that a horse panicked in the trailer and was pulling back hard. The gal couldn't get near the snap under the jaw because of the head swinging. The pruning shears did a fine job of cutting the rope. The blade guard on the shears make them safer to use than a knife. They work best if there is a lot of tension on the rope.


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## beau159 (Oct 4, 2010)

When I trailer my horse, the panic snap attaches to the trailer (not my horse). I want to be able to reach it through a window if my horse would fall down or something like that. 

For cross ties in the barn? Never really thought about it. 

I have panic snaps on all my leadropes (I make them myself). Actually just had my horse get caught on something a few weeks ago and before I could even undo the panic snap, it "snapped" on its own under the pressure. He broke it too, but I don't mind one bit because I am happy it gave way and let him free. (He had a breakaway halter on his head ..... which didn't break ..... :? )

There's pro's and con's both ways. I think as long as you are using panic snaps, you are giving an emergency way to free your horse.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

Or worse yet you get hit with with the flying end when you can't keep hold of the horse once you unsnap it. We've had a horse go down in a trailer, one of the drafts. I keep my felcos with me at all times in my bag (long story and not for horse use) and they were what saved the mare. Even tightened the quick release knot did what it was supposed to (after the fact) but it took effort. It was quicker to use the felcos. We use a quick release knot and hardware at the horse.


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

I use quick release/panic snaps in the trailer only. They are put on the trailer tie ring as I used the argument in my head that if I had to unhook in a situation, I would be able to reach through the window for sure but probably not be able to reach as far as the halter (my arms aren't that long). 

After reading the posts, I'm rethinking that practice and I'm going to go with yet lighter material for the trailer ties. I would much rather have the tie break than the snap flailing around smacking horse faces. What I haven't quite decided on is whether I will continue to use the panic snaps or not????


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

I guess it's just to each their own there. When I tie outside a trailer, I tie solid with rope halter and tied on leads. No buckles or snaps to break. I don't tie solid in a trailer at all. When I tie at all then, I take a couple of wraps around the side grate (stock trailer). Just enough tension to keep them from moving around, but will easily pull loose with a bit of tension in an emergency.

I always carry a knife so if something gets stuck, I can cut the lead to get them loose. Not only do I NOT want my horses learning that they can get free by pulling, but I've seen a couple horses badly injured because something broke when they set back. Both ended up flipping over backward when the halter/snap/buckle broke. One fractured his withers and was never able to be ridden again. The other broke a rib, punctured a lung, and had to be put down.

At least with something solid, I can choose the best time to cut them loose to minimize the risk of a worse injury.


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## Stan (Aug 25, 2011)

Panic snap. I have never heard the term before reading this thread but get the gist of it. I/we use a piece of bailing twine attached to the trailer as a loop and attach the lead rope to the loop It has enough strength to tell the horse it is tethered but will break if required.
Last thing one wants is the horse that has panicked to have it perceive it is further under threat by having its head tied and be unable to free itself which increases the state of panic. It can lead to the horse going down in the trailer which is very dangerous to deal with.

The quicker the tether breaks the quicker it will calm down and stop pulling against what ever is holding its head. As for shoeing, the lead rope is wound a few times around a rail which seems to be enough resistance against him pulling but will unwind if he pulls hard. It is also entertaining watching my horse trying to untie himself. When he has achieved that he will put his foot down and calmly walk away. Just to demonstrate who is in control.

Try bailing twine. From what I have seen with my horses once the twine has broken they stop pulling and very rearly have they moved more than a few yards. I say that because the original reason for the panic has passed, and the focus is on the head being tied so if that is released quickly the then reason for panic has gone and calm returns.

In the trailer I don't tie as the horse as it uses its head to balance. I have a chain or bar to stop it going forward or backwards and it can't self unload when the ramp goes down.

How much does a panic snap cost in relation to a piece of twine.

I have rambled on enough
Cheers every one.


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## mslady254 (May 21, 2013)

Although it looked to me like the panic snap had to be released by me, as folks are saying how difficult it is to get near enough to release it if the horse is panicked, which was my reasoning as well........I have had it self release, so it must be the difference in my puny strength and Sonny's 1000 lbs of mostly muscle to make it work properly and self release. So now I'm thinking it's not a danger to clip it to the halter (you dont' have to get to it for the release)

But, I also found and use an 'equiping' device, which comes open with ?175 lbs (dont remember exactly) of pressure. It's about $14, but can be refastened if it pings open, so used over and over. I always clip to it when trailering. I just leave it on the halter all the time. I get lots of comments 'what's that purple thing on his halter?". 

I would leave him untied in my 2horse straight load, but he turns his head around to look into the empty slot , gets it too far and then can't figure out how to get it back in place (difficult to describe--he must lift up and back to clear the divided that is a tiny bit further back than the manger,,,then gets stuck in this position)
. Goofy boy..so I need a little pressure to keep him from doing that.

Fay


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## HoustonWeHaveAProblem (Jan 17, 2014)

I usually tie my guys in the trailer with a safety knot that I can quickly undo in case of an emergency....it's always worked great UNTILLL...my big paint gelding decided to suck back WHILE I was tying it. I couldn't get my hand away in time and my pinky finger ended up getting caught in the portion of the knot that is supposed to slide through itself. I ended up almost amputating my finger (3 weeks before my wedding!! And yes, I realize I should have been wearing gloves..)

I checked out the Blocker tie rings Blocker Tie Ring Horse Safety Clip Equestrian Supplies Lead Rope Ropes - Blocker Ranch, Inc

(FWIW my gelding does not have a history of sucking back while tied..such a fluke deal, but enough to stick in my mind and make me anxious now) but for the cost...it sounds like just using some baling twine would work well. I had never heard that until here at HF..good idea!


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## Yogiwick (Sep 30, 2013)

I just hate doing them/undoing them and prefer a regular snap and therefore put the panic snap on the wall lol. It may release better if near the horse but it will release either way. You would have something to hang on to or it may be something to rile up the horse more..


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## Yogiwick (Sep 30, 2013)

Yes baling twine works well. My trainers cross ties are only baling twine with a regular snap on the end to attach them. It is a little rinky dink looking and they will break more easily (not for a horse that will learn to break them for the sake of it!) but will also break before a full blown panic which is good.


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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

I've never seen a panic snap (Called a Quick Release in the UK) break under pressure
The whole point of having them at the wall or whatever tie point is so you can release a panicking horse without needing to get close to it - thrashing hooves and human bodies don't mix well
I always avoid using them as a lead rope attached to the halter because they do what they're designed to do so well - release very quickly and if a horse does something and you somehow grab close to its head and catch the panic snap it comes undone and it's 'bye bye horsey'


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## SueC (Feb 22, 2014)

We've had panic snaps for 30+ years and have never seen them release on their own; the type we saw was not meant to do that, only to allow for quick release under tension.

What I would do: Panic snap on the head, slip knot at the other end. That way you can release a horse with a quick pull on the rope end if necessary, you have a lead on the horse, but no piece of metal inviting injury getting loose. Another problem with dragging a panic snap on the end of a rope is that it may get caught and cause a running horse to break its neck - which is also the reason we were taught never, ever, ever to have a _residual_ knot in the actual rope itself.

We've released horses on a panic snap at the head end - when the frantic stage was incipient, not in full swing. I've had one panic snap go in 30+ years, from malfunction - the actual mechanism that hooks back into the quick-release sleeve broke into parts when a horse sat back on its rope, and the shards went flying. I was wearing shorts and one piece of the shrapnel ended up making a nice hole in my leg, and I still have that little scar. It was a freak thing to do with the age of the snap, I've never heard of that happening to anyone else, and no repeat in 25 years since.

My father never tied in a trailer, until one of his horses turned around in it. She should not have been able to do it as she was in a narrow partition, but ended up with her head and neck hanging out of the back of the float, watching the freeway traffic with interest. I went cold at the thought of what could have happened had she decided to jump. Floats totally closed at the back prevent this situation, but had this mare turned in such a float, she might have broken her neck when she got to the other end. So, now we always tie.


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## karliejaye (Nov 19, 2011)

I no longer use cross ties, but when I did, we had the quick release/panic snaps at the wall. I have never seen one release on its own, but have released them by hand on quite a few occasions (my horse was a notorious for pulling back, and we had 5 or 6 training horses come through who would pull).
I am not too comfortable getting close to a thrashing horse, and as long as the ties are not elastic, have not had any incidents with the cross tie flailing about too teriibly much.
Now, we did try bungee cross ties for a while, with the panic snap at the wall. BAD idea. A horse, who was not known to pull bakc, sat down and pulled hard. When his owner unclipped the panic snap, it flung staright into his face and the clip got him in the eye. That was an expensive vet bill.
Now, my horse at the time was awful about sucking back and pulling. He never did it in a panicked state, though. He would just pull back hard as he could, usually breaking his halter crown piece or the hardware, then calmly saunter down the aisle to the mare's stall. I can tell you that all of the following can break: bull snaps, spring snaps, leather crown pieces, tie rings, the metal side rings on a nylon halter (I am still amazed by that one), and the middle of a slightly worn cotton rope. but I have never seen a panic snap break on its own.
The only way we kept Hank tied and broke him of his habit was with a stout rope halter, lead tied on, tied to one of the arena posts. He eventually learned that as hard as he pulled, he wasn't getting away and stopped trying.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

My horses are taught to stand patiently without being tied to anything. If I had to tie them it would be with a leather halter, never a rope or nylon halter.


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

I have a question, can someone post a picture of a quick release knot that will _actually_ release with a pull if it's got 1000+ pounds of horse hanging/pulling on it? I've tried every "quick release" knot I've ever been taught and I don't have the strength to release _any_ of them if they've got weight on the lead. That's another reason why I always carry a knife. That's a guaranteed release.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

I had never had problems with the quick release knot I used until I had a horse go down in the trailer. I usually don't tie just pull the lead through the loop but this wasn't my horse. It took quite a bit of strength to pull the lead and release the knot. I had my felcos (hand pruners with a curved blunt tip blade) out and had cut through quicker than the guys with us could get he lead undone. I carry a knife as well but we had a second horse panicking because of the first horse's fall. A knife could have been a disaster. I was thankful I had them and still keep a pair in my vehicle.


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## whisperbaby22 (Jan 25, 2013)

The quick release is great because it keeps my horse where I want him and I can undo it quickly. But it doesn't really work if a horse really pulls back on it. I agree that release snaps work well, but you have to consider the situation. And it's always good to keep a sharp knife, I have a box cutter in my trailer that is so sharp it's like a surgical instrument. Just whip off the plastic cover and it's ready to go.


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## jaydee (May 10, 2012)

smrobs said:


> I have a question, can someone post a picture of a quick release knot that will _actually_ release with a pull if it's got 1000+ pounds of horse hanging/pulling on it? I've tried every "quick release" knot I've ever been taught and I don't have the strength to release _any_ of them if they've got weight on the lead. That's another reason why I always carry a knife. That's a guaranteed release.


I have found exactly the same to be true - which is why I also carry a knife. They work if you get to them fast enough but considering how fast a panic situation escalates that is rarely going to happen


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## SueC (Feb 22, 2014)

smrobs said:


> I have a question, can someone post a picture of a quick release knot that will _actually_ release with a pull if it's got 1000+ pounds of horse hanging/pulling on it?


I'm sorry I don't have a photo - it's soooo laborious taking and uploading photographs... but I'll try to describe it clearly.

First of all, I'm not sure it would work as well tying to rings, we always crosstie to posts. Usually at events, that means to tubular steel posts. At home, it might be wooden carport posts when they need to stand on a level surface for precise hoof trims... and a carport is such a nice, convenient level surface...

So what you do is to dally your lead rope around the post one to three times, depending on how "sticky" or "slippery" your rope is. We use soft all-cotton ropes and one to two turns around the post are usually fine. Do this with both leads. Get someone to hold one of the ropes for you while you tie the other, unless you're wonderfully clever and ambidextrous, and/or can work magic tricks. Have the rope you are tying at the correct tension and then just tie an ordinary slip knot over the top of the dallies. The free end dangles and one pull releases the horse.

The slip knot is like an ordinary granny knot except you pull a loop through. A granny knot will not be quick-release.

I think the problem is when people tie a granny knot under the slip knot, which then counteracts the quick-release. They usually do it because the slip knot won't stay up unsupported - and that's why we dally under it.

I hope that helps. If not, I will be really nice and take a photo next time.


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## Patty Stiller (Aug 7, 2012)

> For the longest time the farrier who comes to my barn insists the panic snap on the cross ties be fastened to the horse and the bull snap to the wall. He will switch them every time. I used to have a trainer who said the same.


The safest way is the panic snap on the wall. Think about trying to get close to an upside down horse to unsnap it.


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## COWCHICK77 (Jun 21, 2010)

smrobs said:


> I have a question, can someone post a picture of a quick release knot that will _actually_ release with a pull if it's got 1000+ pounds of horse hanging/pulling on it? I've tried every "quick release" knot I've ever been taught and I don't have the strength to release _any_ of them if they've got weight on the lead. That's another reason why I always carry a knife. That's a guaranteed release.


 
The best one I found is a bowline with a slipknot but even that isn't guaranteed to pull loose with a horse thrashing on the end of it. 
I also found the material your lead ropes are made of makes a difference as how well a slip knot releases.
Like you, I pack a knife.


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## COWCHICK77 (Jun 21, 2010)

It was interesting to read the responses as I don't use panic snaps. 

It sounds like, to me, that if you value your safety during a horse wig out you attach the snap wall side. 
If you are concerned about the horse getting whacked in the head with the lead and snap and don't mind getting close to release him you attach it to the halter. 
Seems like a personal preference.


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## paintmered (Jul 27, 2014)

i have never really used them but at barns that do i have always seen them with the panic snap on the halter


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

Chick, that's the same knot I've always used LOL. That nylon lead material is so cheap that on the exceedingly rare occasion that I do need to get a horse free quick, I don't even try to untie, I just cut it and replace the lead later.


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## SueC (Feb 22, 2014)

I haven't tried the knot in the picture, though it looks like a good knot to tie into rings like that.

I did notice that the lead rope looks different to the ones we generally use in Western Australia. We have chunky cotton ropes, generally with twists of different colours, anyone know the type? Not nylon, that's asking for rope burn... Had a synthetic one once, in Europe over 30 years ago, and did get sore hands if there was any hanging on required during a spook etc.

Chunky cotton lead ropes, slip knot over dallies on upright posts: Pretty standard way to cross-tie at pacing and racing tracks in WA at least. We've had a couple of times that we had to release these knots under pressure and it wasn't a problem. In pacing for instance, the horses are turned around to face out of the stalls when the sulky gets connected up. Sometimes people end up releasing the slip knots because an over-excited horse tries to sit back, or because the head is at the wrong angle to release a dog clip (most people don't use panic snaps) and the rope is under tension, and it's easier than fandangling the harnessed-up horse and cart around.

We did know one horse trainer who lost a finger because it was in the wrong spot when a horse pulled back and he tried to undo it. No idea what the exact details of the situation were through, where he got caught etc.


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

Sue, we do have those here too, but IME, the ones we have are generally too short to be very useful and they always have snaps on them. I don't like using snaps.


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## ButtInTheDirt (Jan 16, 2011)

I always snap it to the horse. My father is the only person I've ever seen snap it to the wall. He unclips it every time he reaches for the halter, because he grabs the snap and pulls. This is somehow the snaps fault, so he turns it around. I have since convinced him to do it the other way. He only works with his driving horses, so when everything is ready to up and drive away, it is much easier to unsnap from the horse. That is the way I've always done it.

I never knew they actually were supposed to release? I have one huge mare that will break the material on a quick release before the snap. Or she'll break the halter. If I am working a horse that I know might pull, I have the quick release trailer ties on a tie ring. Then I don't have to spend an hour untying the horse. And horses like my yearling rarely pull, but the chances of her untying herself are high if I just do a daisy chain to tie her.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## SlideStop (Dec 28, 2011)

ButtInTheDirt said:


> I always snap it to the horse. My father is the only person I've ever seen snap it to the wall. He unclips it every time he reaches for the halter, because he grabs the snap and pulls. This is somehow the snaps fault, so he turns it around. I have since convinced him to do it the other way. He only works with his driving horses, so when everything is ready to up and drive away, it is much easier to unsnap from the horse. That is the way I've always done it.
> 
> I never knew they actually were supposed to release? I have one huge mare that will break the material on a quick release before the snap. Or she'll break the halter. If I am working a horse that I know might pull, I have the quick release trailer ties on a tie ring. Then I don't have to spend an hour untying the horse. And horses like my yearling rarely pull, but the chances of her untying herself are high if I just do a daisy chain to tie her.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


I think many people think they are supposed to release themselves, but I don't think the mechanics of the snap will allow that to happen. Hence why I think it would be done to the wall, because who really wants to get near a 1,000lb animal who's freaking out.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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