# Advice on lights, outlets and wiring the barn



## Shosadlbrd (Nov 3, 2013)

Getting ready to have my barn wired.
Any and all advice welcome.

Also, what kind of lights should I use in my stalls and runway?


----------



## SEAmom (Jan 8, 2011)

How tall is the ceiling? Would you be mounting the lights on the walls of the stalls or ceilings only? Do you have any ceiling fans? How much natural light do you have coming into the barn? What's the coldest temp you will get inside the barn?

Regardless of what you get, make sure the fixture has a gasketed lens. That helps to greatly minimize dust and condensate getting into the fixture itself. Bare lamps are more efficient at throwing light, but also more of a hazard if you aren't clearing them of debris regularly.


----------



## Shosadlbrd (Nov 3, 2013)

SEAmom said:


> How tall is the ceiling? Would you be mounting the lights on the walls of the stalls or ceilings only? Do you have any ceiling fans? How much natural light do you have coming into the barn? What's the coldest temp you will get inside the barn?


The barn is 12 foot tall. Lights will be mounted on ceiling. No ceiling fans, will have box fans and heated buckets, so plan on outlets at each stall. 
Lots of natural light...all stalls have 48x48 barred windows plus skylights. 
Not sure what the coldest temp will be, but it can get pretty cold here in Southwest Virginia during the winter.


----------



## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

Use metal covers for ANY lights that you horse can reach. My horses broke three of them with outlets, and I had to plug in dummies and not use them anymore.


----------



## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Have you checked the code for the type of junction boxes to use in a barn? If not done to code, no insurance.


----------



## SEAmom (Jan 8, 2011)

Is your barn insulated? Either way in VA you should be pretty safe with normal ballasts (if you end up with fluorescent fixtures) and shouldn't need anything like the 0° degree cold-weather ballast, which is what I always recommend and design for up here in Ohio. 

Agree with Saddlebag. Use junction boxes rated for outdoor use (generally heavier duty, dust-tight and watertight and should be rated Nema 3R at minimum, but preferably Nema 4). Use receptacles that are rated for outdoor use and provide weatherproof covers to prevent moisture and dust from getting into the actual box through the plug area. 

I forgot to ask: How are your stalls constructed? Are the walls solid (wood or brick) and full height to the ceiling? Are they open on the sides, but full height to the ceiling? Are they open but not to the ceiling? You get the idea. 

I can post a couple of fixtures that I personally recommend and have used in previous designs for a horse barn. 

Keep all wiring in rigid conduit that will near horses, not the metal clad flexible stuff. You can use the flexible whips to the light fixtures that are not in stall areas. 

Wherever possible, use LED, not fluorescent, incandescent, HID, or metal halide. If you really can't do LED (despite the amazing payback in electrical savings, improved performance in temps lower than 80°F and the instant-on usability), stick to fluorescent.


----------



## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

For any plugs in a barn I have GFI outlets....
They trip if they detect current interruption, a short,  moisture in excess or a overloaded circuit.
Any and all wiring regardless would be in metal conduit and securely fastened to the wall, ceiling.
All my fans would be sealed motors and probably if "ceiling style" direct wired not a plug in.
All my lighting would be "caged" so no inquisitive horse could accidentally bump a glass bulb and get burned or shatter the glass getting injured possibly.
With ceilings so high I would be looking at the possibility of LED lights for brightness and intensity with reduced heat build-up.
I would look into having side lighting done, high in the aisle but less shadows thrown...you know the bogey monster shadows thing.
For stalls a actual light-bulb with a metal cage surrounding it so not touched yet it is easily changed when it fails....
I would make a night-lite at either end of my barn aisle so if you need to be there at night for a sick animal the whole place isn't a glow.
I would have switches for those aisle lights at either end of the barn so no matter what end you walk out...turn-off the lights. If your barn is really long, a series of lights so you need not have the entire aisle lit, but a part of it...might take several switches to do this though..
A circuit breaker box easily accessible right inside a barn entrance doorway in case you need to throw the power quickly upon exit for what ever reason...
Many independent circuits so no overloading when plugging in those bucket heaters or cooling fans...
Every stall outside it has a outlet, GFI and if you have individual stall lighting a switch for each stall. You can include your outlet into that box which helps to reduce dust and debris and then you can power on or off each stall as needed.
Outdoor flood lights that can turn on from your house... off at the barn switch too.
How many of us have walked a dark path to check on the horse not feeling well.
If a wash/grooming stall very careful wiring near it.
A vet area for treatment needs special wiring, extra outlets and bright lights for those times of emergent care happening.
Again may need a special type of outlet done by a water faucet/hydrant. If you freeze though during the winter having the ability to wrap your hydrant in heat tape makes it easier to draw water up as needed in case of really bad temperatures and freezing before full drainage occurs of the hydrant...
*
A huge one is any and all work done is done by a certified, insured and licensed electrician who has a license to work in your county.*
All work done to current code or better.
A signed letter/bill with inspection done by your building department that code was met.
A _*copy*_ of that sent to the insurance company holding your homeowners/barn policy. You keep the original always for safe keeping to protect you in your rates and if ever a problem arises your proof is that certificate and bill with all identifying information on it.

Good luck....
:runninghorse2:
_jmo.._


----------



## SEAmom (Jan 8, 2011)

horselovinguy said:


> A huge one is any and all work done is done by a certified, insured and licensed electrician who has a license to work in your county.[/I][/B]
> All work done to current code or better.
> A signed letter/bill with inspection done by your building department that code was met.
> A _*copy*_ of that sent to the insurance company holding your homeowners/barn policy. You keep the original always for safe keeping to protect you in your rates and if ever a problem arises your proof is that certificate and bill with all identifying information on it.


Yes to this. Please, do NOT do this work yourself unless you know the codes for your area and are a licensed electrician. Get quotes from three respectable contractors and take the middle cost. Make sure you get a quote for the exact same services. Sometimes they like to throw in little "extras" or "We don't have to do all that, we can just do this and it's cheaper and easier". Don't fall for that malarky. 

Again, you should not ever have exposed lamps in a barn. It just isn't safe for anyone. 

You're better off using Ground Fault protected breakers and keeping all the loads segregated. So, receptacles together, lighting together, fan motors together and water buckets together (if they are not plugged into the stall outlet). A good electrician will already know these things, but make sure they do it. They will also know what the appropriate load is per circuit. Make sure you can maintain 20% spare in capacity AND in spare circuit breakers. I also agree with using closed motor fans. They last longer and are much safer because you limit the dust that gets into the motor and can hardwire them. Plug in as little as possible, try for as much hardwire as possible.


----------

