# Rotted Floors



## VivaLaPluto (Jan 7, 2016)

I have an old wooden floored trailer, and it has some serious bug damage (not my fault, got it cheap second hand!) Will I need to replace the flooring? Or can I just reinforce it? If so, with what?


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## HombresArablegacy (Oct 12, 2013)

Replace the floor entirely using pressure treated 2x6 lumber. There's no safe way to reinforce already rotted floors. It's not that hard to do, and not expensive. It also will allow you to see if the metal floor braces are in good shape, or need to be replaced or upgraded.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

As Hombres said -- replace the floor.

Over the years, we replaced the floor twice in our old trailer. Most trailers are designed such that the boards can be slid into place on metal channels without too much trouble.

Btw, the last time we put Thompson water sealant on all six sides of the individual boards before putting them in. That has greatly helped extend their life.


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## PrivatePilot (Dec 7, 2009)

x2 *REPLACE* the floor, don't try to band-aid anything. 

While the floor is out carefully inspect the frame under it. On trailers with rotted floors, particularly older trailers, it's not uncommon to find frame problems as well. Putting a new floor in is no good if the frame that's supposed to support it underneath is rotten as well.

Look at the link in my signature below to give you some idea as to the refurbishment process..


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Don't go with pressure treated. It's not a strong as the original wood. If the floor is rotten, the metal underneath needs to be checked. If all is ok, when installing the new floor, leave small spaces to allow for expansion which will happen during rainy spells. Never park the trailer where grass grows up around it. Put down tarps or old sheets of plywood. This allows the breezes to pass underneath. If you use mats, they should be removed after use. This allows the floor to dry. If at a show or ride, and the horse has soiled, sweep out as best you can, and flip the mat forward. This was told to me by a fellow in the auto body business who'd replaced lots of horse trailer floors.


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## PrivatePilot (Dec 7, 2009)

Pressure treat 2x6 pine has proven sturdy in my trailer and I've carried more than a few drafts and countless warmbloods since I rebuilt mine. 

As strong as the original hardwood? Nope. Strong enough to be safe, and likely to last longer? Yep. Dramatically cheaper? Yep!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

I had a 1972 WW and the floor was replaced after 20 yrs. The second floor remains solid. It was sold for a larger trailer and is being stored as recommended.


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## gunslinger (Sep 17, 2011)

Think what would happen should the floor collapse going down the road at 55 mph......and the horses fell through.

Trailers should be serviced at least yearly. I take mine to a trailer shop, have the bearings packed, tires and brakes checked and repaired as required, and the lights fixed.....at the same time, I have them check the floor and replace the boards if necessary and perform a safety check.

I do this every August when it's to hot to ride.......

What I want is a receipt. I've been sued over an auto accident before....so, I have it professionally serviced yearly so there is no appearance of neglect or negligence.


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## walkinthewalk (Jul 23, 2008)

VivaLaPluto said:


> I have an old wooden floored trailer, and it has some serious bug damage (not my fault, got it cheap second hand!) Will I need to replace the flooring? Or can I just reinforce it? If so, with what?


First, please don't go on the automatic defensive because you bought a trailer with a rotted floor. They ALL rot over time and need replaced.

You can go on the defensive if you don't replace the floor.

I bought my 1987 Ponderosa stock trailer new. I have replaced the floor twice, both times with original tongue and groove flooring.

And yes indeed, as has been mentioned, have someone check the frame for excessive rust rot.

I have kept my trailer oiled all these years. To this day it has minimum surface rust and the frame is still like new.

Meaning, if the trailer is fixable, keep it maintenanced


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

To my way of thinking, if the floor is rotten, the bearings probably need replacing as well. Mine were checked at least yearly. My mechanic advised taking the trailer for a monthly drive during hot weather if the trailer has been sitting for a few months. Grease will pool at the bottom of the bearing, leaving little for the remainder.


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## wyominggrandma (Nov 4, 2009)

Trust me, replace the floor. I won't get into descriptions but while working for my vet we had emergency call for a horse that his back legs went through the rotted trailer floor and was dragged for quite awhile..... I don't need to tell you what happened..
Needless to say, replacing the floor is much cheaper than replacing your horse


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## VivaLaPluto (Jan 7, 2016)

Thanks everyone! It'll be a little investment and work, but as its been pointed out I'd much rather spend a bit on this than have to replace my furry baby! I'll look into the pressure treated pine, although I'm lucky and have family that just finished a new deck. I think they may have some extra plastic wood, which would probably work nicely. Nice and thick, easy to clean, no rot.


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## walkinthewalk (Jul 23, 2008)

OP, before you start using materials that "should work" for horse trailer flooring, PLEASE read this article from "The Horse".

Ensuring Horse Trailer Floors Don't Fail - The Horse 911: What's Your Emergency?

First, it shows a graphic picture of the pastern area of a horse that ended up being euthanized.

Second, it gives flooring recommendations.

This is nothing to second guess. Just because a certain type of material works for deck flooring, doesn't mean it will be safe for a horse trailer.

3. Once the old flooring is ripped out, have someone give the frame a thorough inspection. Rotted frames are equally as dangerous as rotted floors. 

years ago, I bought a new horse trailer because an ethical welder told me my old trailer was not able to be safely spot repaired to pull horses. A boat yes; horses no.


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## cewhite3 (Jun 20, 2018)

walkinthewalk said:


> First, please don't go on the automatic defensive because you bought a trailer with a rotted floor. They ALL rot over time and need replaced.
> 
> You can go on the defensive if you don't replace the floor.
> 
> ...


I know this is an older post, but it caught my eye because of the mention of replacing boards in a Ponderosa Trailer. In general, the boards in my Ponderosa trailer are in good shape. Unfortunately I have one board near the front that cracked in the center and needs to be replaced. I am having a hard time figuring out how to do this. Given that the boards are tongue and groove and in tracks on both sides I can figure out how to remove and replace the damaged board. I can't see how you slide the boards around. As far as I can tell the boards fit in a channel formed from welded steel angles that run from the front of the trailer to the rear. I can't see how can remove one board so I can slide the others around to allow for removing and installing a new board. There must be a trick to it but I haven't figured it out. How about a clue! Also, are the tongue and groove boards I need a standard item I can buy, or will I need to have a replacement board made. At this point I am tempted to just screw a 12" wide 1" board over the damaged board and screw it to the the damaged board and the boards on either side. Not elegant but probably safe enough for now. I'd love a better suggestion.

Ed


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## walkinthewalk (Jul 23, 2008)

cewhite3 said:


> I know this is an older post, but it caught my eye because of the mention of replacing boards in a Ponderosa Trailer. In general, the boards in my Ponderosa trailer are in good shape. Unfortunately I have one board near the front that cracked in the center and needs to be replaced. I am having a hard time figuring out how to do this. Given that the boards are tongue and groove and in tracks on both sides I can figure out how to remove and replace the damaged board. I can't see how you slide the boards around. As far as I can tell the boards fit in a channel formed from welded steel angles that run from the front of the trailer to the rear. I can't see how can remove one board so I can slide the others around to allow for removing and installing a new board. There must be a trick to it but I haven't figured it out. How about a clue! Also, are the tongue and groove boards I need a standard item I can buy, or will I need to have a replacement board made. At this point I am tempted to just screw a 12" wide 1" board over the damaged board and screw it to the the damaged board and the boards on either side. Not elegant but probably safe enough for now. I'd love a better suggestion.
> 
> Ed


Ok, per DH, here's the skinny:

1. It's near impossible to remove a single board from the front and get a new one back in.

Ponderosa hasn't been made for years so you might be better off replacing the entire floor. Which, removal starts with the back board, and replacement starts up front.

2. The ends of the boards are square. The first few have to be angled a little to get them to slide in. It's bit PITA -- DH could hardly talk about it, lollollol. You might be happier buying the tongue and groove and letting someone else install an entire new floor.

3.*go to a quality lumber yard and buy HARDWOOD tongue and groove.*. Don't let anyone sell you anything less.

Neither of us can remember the cost for my 4-horse stock trailer ---- except to say it was over $100 but under $500.

What I didn't say in my original post on this thread, is that my trailer is double-floored. The bottom being the tongue and groove. The top being 3/4" treated plywood. Then mats on top of that. I did that because I moved my horses clear across the U.S. twice; 2,100+ miles is quite a trek in a stock trailer


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