# Fence Post Question



## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

My posts are pressure treated and none have had to be replaced since they were put in about 1985. It is best to put a long point on the end and pound them in. The point helps prevent frost heave in the spring. A flat end will heave.


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## FancytheBelgianMare (Jan 3, 2014)

Thanks Saddlebags! Did you go for 4 by 4's or the wood posts that haven't been treated and look similar to branches still (like they carry at tractor supply)? I think wood would be easy, I'd really like to learn about the pvc as well.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Cincinnati (Jun 21, 2013)

I have the PVC post with high tensile vinyl through the post. I have had it up for ten years and only had to tighen it once. It is 5 strand with a hole for electric if you need that. I like it as it is a safe fence. Have 4 acres fenced.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

I used treated wood posts as well and they are very durable. I would think they are much better than PVC, especially when temperatures fluctuate. Your posts need to be big enough (4-6" in diameter) in deep enough (at least 2') and braced properly in the corners. 
Spacing can vary, but the more strands of fencing you have and the more up and down your fence line is, the closer you will want to out your posts. We used 4 strands of electric poly rope (3/8") and out our posts 20' apart. With some, you can go as long as 50' if the ground is level. 
It is also important to use quality insulators and fasteners for your fencing. Nail-in insulators can work loose so we used screw in insulators.


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## FancytheBelgianMare (Jan 3, 2014)

Well I have the insulators picked out, they are porcelain screw ins, and I figured I would set the posts apart 10' or so. I am hoping to get some boarders at the new place so I'm going to make sure it's safe for anyone, and starting my mare because she is a force to be reckoned with. I was thinking that if I used PVC, they have 4" round ones and I could sink the insulators in then fill the PVC with concrete and fasten them into the ground, 2-3 feet with more concrete. I just really like how clean and neat wire looks with PVC, but if all else fails I would go wood. I'm sure I'll end up with wood since it's more economical.

Thank you everyone!!! This is a great start for thoughts!


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

PVC posts won't last as long as the wood posts. For horses 6 strands is overkill. Three work well, two hot and the middle is neutral. You need to allow 5 posts for each corner as two are used for bracing then run non electric wire in an X to snug the whole works together. With great corners your posts can be 30'to 50' apart. Wire is your best bet as it doesn't shred in the wind. If the wire moves and bounces a little the horse will stay farther away. This means it doesn't have to be strung tight like a violin. Be sure to ground the charger very well. Don't skimp here. Some use three, 3' rods buried and inter connected. An old vehicle radiator is great instead of rods.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

^^^ This! The porcelain insulators should work well. I agree with Saddlebag on the number of strands. You don't need more than 3 or 4. We use 4 with the second and third strand electrified. I also agree on using wire or rope over the tape. The tape tends to shred in the wind. Straight galvanized wire is terrible to work with, but effective once it is up and tensioned properly. We used the heavier 3/8" rope and I love it because I can tighten it without special tools. It is easy to work with, looks great and carries the charge very well.

Saddlebag also offers good advice regarding grounding the charging unit and bracing the corners. Buy a fence tester to check your current. There are a few ways to brace your corners depending on the type of soil you have. Some use wood, other use wire and others use anchors with wire. Regardless of how tight you need your fencing, you need good bracing. Here is a good article on bracing styles:

http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/resmgmt/publist/300Series/307220-2.pdf

I would be wary of using PVC posts filled with concrete. First of all, they are permanent and leave you little flexibility to move things around. I am also unsure how forgiving they would be if a horse or vehicle ran into them. I assume for integrity they would also have to be reenforced with a piece of rebar. If one broke on impact, it could cause a lot of damage to an animal.


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

I would avoid plastic myself, UV from the sun degrades plastic rather fast and they become brittle. That's also one of the problems with using poly tape/rope. Pressure treated wood is the best bet for your posts. 

Don't forget to buy a quality fence charger for your acreage and installing it correctly. Most common mistakes people make are buying a cheap charge, buying one that's underpowered for the mileage of fencing they are stringing and not correctly installing the grounding rods. FYI, I haven't found a solar powered charger yet that impresses me. Battery powered chargers are good so long as you keep your battery well charged but that gets to be a pain so people let them run down to low. Electric is the only way I'll go unless I have no choice.


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## Racers Home (Feb 1, 2014)

Hello all,, I have a question about types of post,,,,, I have heard that white cedar is a replacement for pressure treated wood... Do you think they will work?


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## Racers Home (Feb 1, 2014)

One other question,,,should the top rail have electrified wiring as well? I purchased 164 acres last year and am planning to bring in rescued TB's as soon as the fencing and stables are up.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

For pasture you don't need a top rail unless you want to greatly increase the number of posts as you will have to space them every 8'. Anything farther and the board becomes much weaker. This will triple your costs. When the fence is operating, the horses can sense it from 30' away. If you are concerned just tie a few streamers of survey ribbon around the perimeter. One every few feet is unnecessary, but 20-25 ft. The horse will see the fluttering.


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

Racers Home said:


> One other question,,,should the top rail have electrified wiring as well? I purchased 164 acres last year and am planning to bring in rescued TB's as soon as the fencing and stables are up.


In a nutshell, yes. Without putting a hotwire on top they'll lean over to reach grass and will eventually pull down your top rail. On a side note, putting on the bottom rail helps keep them from reaching under and doing the same thing. This also holds true if using no climb fencing. The more you keep a horse off your fence with electric wire the longer it will last.


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## Darrin (Jul 11, 2011)

Racers Home said:


> Hello all,, I have a question about types of post,,,,, I have heard that white cedar is a replacement for pressure treated wood... Do you think they will work?


I've heard the part of Oregon (western) I'm in and Maine have similar weather. Most people around here use pressure treated wood because it lasts longer in the wet soil. I know in my states drier areas many do use cedar posts instead but those are semi-arid to desert climates.


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

Use as many 8 in diameter wooden posts as you can. Often people do 1 wooden, 2 metal, then repeat. If you have to, do that, then plan on replacing the metal ones piecemeal bc the tops are potentially impaling.
I also recommend buying an auger to dig your holes. I bought one some 13 years ago, and you screw down to collect and remove dirt from the hole. Even if I'm tired, I can still dig a hole with it. The other type of post hole digger makes you slam it down and it's jarring to your body. A child could dig a post hole with an auger.




They now make posts with tips, but they aren't as wide or as sturdy.
_(THIS guy is such a weakling!! I don't make that many stops and starts, but you get the idea.)_


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

Metal post . heavy metal. Our Belgian would push down t- post bend them over, paw down a wire field fence, ripped out acres of hot wire. I have one Percheron mix, and he cannot stay out on the pasture due to the damage he does to fences. I have two other draft mixes that are hard on the fences and have pulled down the hot wire , they break the insulators, then when the fence shorts out..l its by by fence. Not t post for the metal , use like used oilfield pipe.


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## tim62988 (Aug 30, 2012)

I would agree with those that say wooden posts,

the in-laws are switching all of their dairy fences from steel to wood. Buying untreated posts with a point on the end stand on the front of the 4-wheeler with a sledge hammer and in they go.

then we just use plastic tube insulators and fencing staples to attach the wire, leaving a few extra insulators lose on the wire in case you find a spot where another post would be really handy

our horse pasture is currently metal posts with 2 strands and when we bought my horse I walked the perimeter with her so she knew the line and have yet to have any problems

also a good quality fencer will really help to prevent the constant testing by horses, you don't need SUPER hot fence but enough to make them think twice about testing it again


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

Horses can smell when the wire is on and when it is not, btw.


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## SueNH (Nov 7, 2011)

I get about 10 yrs out of cedar posts in my damp river bottom field. You can pick the posts up pretty cheap at times so they are worth it. I see them go at auction here very often for $2 each.


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