# Stopping the bucking/bolting horse



## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

So i need a back up plan......i've just started riding my OTTB mare, she's so quiet and easy to handle but fairly nervous when it comes to being ridden. She's been going well so far as i've been going slow and giving her time to relax and realise it's not all that bad to be ridden again. 
BUT even though she is so willing and really listening to me i'm a little worried that when i start to ask more of her-some trot/canter transitions etc. she may respond by bucking/bolting (she does buck occasionally on the lunge) i guess i'd feel alot more confident if i had a plan if this did happen.
Have you experienced bucking/bolting and how have you controlled it..what has worked for you? If you've got any tips for me that would be great. Thanks


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## franknbeans (Jun 7, 2007)

Does she have a history of this? Why would you be so afraid she will? Sounds to me like maybe you need a trainer/instructor to help you with her. It is not good to start out afraid.


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## ModernThreat101 (Feb 3, 2012)

Redirect her head if she's in a bolt. Horses can turn and dodge quickly, but it'd be hard for her to keep up the steam if she's circling continuously into her bottom. Don't be mean about it, just be firm. You've mentioned she's already unsure about being ridden, so gentle firmness (comparable to the suddenness of the bolt) is necessary to show that You are in control. Enough times of going in circles and she'll eventually get it that bolting is not fun, and she has no reason to be scared because you're in the 'lead'.

A buck is counteracted by keeping her feet moving, and not giving her that chance to bunch that back end. Again, circles and figure-8's are a great way to redirect her energy. If she's having a particularly spooky day in her transitions, leave the session on an up-note; walk for an extra few minutes before dismount and untacking like normal.

I highly advise getting to know/consulting a trainer, no matter what can be suggested on an internet forum.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## whispering willow (Nov 9, 2011)

I have experienced this. But the thing is, you would need to ride through it. And even if she started to buck or bolt, be firm and not mad or frusterated....they will sense that. What I do is to say i always end on a good note. Never get off of her when she's bad, that will just teach her that to get away from somthing like this, all she has to do is buck or bolt. Good Luck


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## gypsygirl (Oct 15, 2009)

when she bolts, how far do you think she would go if you didnt do anything ? i have some experience with OTTB mares [not saying they are all the same though !]. and i have found that if they are feeling nervous and then bolt, and you trap them [by pulling back on the reins] it can lead to them being more nervous. if you are experienced enough/ comfortable enough, i would try to not interfere when she bolts and she what she does after 10-12 strides, she might find that she has no reason to run because shes not trapped. if she starts bucking like crazy, you need to interfere !

i helped one major bolter in this fashion, she would literally bolt 10-15 times every time her owner rode her, because her owner got so tense and clamped down on her. bolted a total of twice with me over a 6mo period. i stopped working with her, and a couple years later her owner ended up euthanizing her because she started bolting again. wish she had told me, as the horse was fine, it was the owner =[


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## candandy49 (Jan 16, 2011)

I am giving you a website address for those who have extensive OTTB retrainng programs for new to OTTB ownership. An OTTB can be retrained for a new discipline, but it takes more knowledge than starting a young horse. 

Exracers.com Forums - Home

Click on Forums

Best of Wishes for success with your horse.


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

franknbeans said:


> Does she have a history of this? Why would you be so afraid she will? Sounds to me like maybe you need a trainer/instructor to help you with her. It is not good to start out afraid.


Whenever i've seen her get over excited or if she doesn't want to be lunged in the opposite direction and i make her go that way she tends to buck so i just thought she might do it when i'm i the saddle....she doesn't have a history of it to my knowledge but you can't aways believe what someone tells you.
Yes, i know..i have never felt afraid with any other horse i'm just a little more wary with this one and i agree i'll definately get the advice of a trainer, mine has just moved away but i'm sure i could find one to come out and atleast let me know we're on the right track because there's no way i can expect her to be calm if i'm a little on edge! Thanks for your advice


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

gypsygirl said:


> when she bolts, how far do you think she would go if you didnt do anything ?


I don't think she'd go very far once she realised it wasn't getting her anywhere, that's a good point i reckon some horses would panic even more if they felt trapped when they bolt out of fright. Just thinking if i ride her in the round yard to start with i can avoid her bolting altogether  thanks for your help


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## gypsygirl (Oct 15, 2009)

good luck !


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

ModernThreat101 said:


> Redirect her head if she's in a bolt. Horses can turn and dodge quickly, but it'd be hard for her to keep up the steam if she's circling continuously into her bottom. Don't be mean about it, just be firm. You've mentioned she's already unsure about being ridden, so gentle firmness (comparable to the suddenness of the bolt) is necessary to show that You are in control. Enough times of going in circles and she'll eventually get it that bolting is not fun, and she has no reason to be scared because you're in the 'lead'.
> 
> A buck is counteracted by keeping her feet moving, and not giving her that chance to bunch that back end. Again, circles and figure-8's are a great way to redirect her energy. If she's having a particularly spooky day in her transitions, leave the session on an up-note; walk for an extra few minutes before dismount and untacking like normal.
> 
> ...


Thanks, that helped alot! I'm sure doing circles/figure 8's like you say will also work if she's not listening to me or if she's a little spooky. She shouldn't buck at all if she just keeps calm and listening, if i don't confuse her or make her nervous she should be her usual quiet self. Yes, i agree about the trainer i will do  thanks again.


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## Prinella (Jul 12, 2011)

It sounds like she's going well so far. I'm assuming you're at walk / trot with her. I'd not ask for a canter until she is comfortable in walk trot. On the lunge if she is bucking consistently this is something you might want to fix before getting on. 

One thing I noticed with Ella was in the early stages if I stood and lunged there would be bucking and oth various hussy fits. If I walked around as I lunged her not an issue. Once she had that bigger circle she was fine. She was struggling with her balance on the small circle.


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## eliduc (Apr 5, 2010)

We have retrained many track horses. The best way to prevent a bolt is to teach the horse to insticntively halt when you tell it to. This starts on the ground. It's the second thing you teach it under saddle the first being to move off your leg calmly. You teach your horse to stop reflexively under saddle by doing about three thousand half halts and halts. With high powered horses you have to be careful you don't buzz the horse up in the process. Space the halts and if your horse starts to excite you may have to circle and move on. The only effective way I know of to stop a bolt is to double your horse around. If it is going full speed that can be dangerous and some horses can run with their nose bent to the stirrup. You are a lot safer if you start your horse in a smaller working area like 60 feet square or round. You are correct in that you need a good road map of where you are going with your horse and how to get there. Most off the track horses are initially too much for any but the most experienced riders.


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

Prinella said:


> It sounds like she's going well so far. I'm assuming you're at walk / trot with her. I'd not ask for a canter until she is comfortable in walk trot. On the lunge if she is bucking consistently this is something you might want to fix before getting on.
> 
> One thing I noticed with Ella was in the early stages if I stood and lunged there would be bucking and oth various hussy fits. If I walked around as I lunged her not an issue. Once she had that bigger circle she was fine. She was struggling with her balance on the small circle.


Hi Prinella, yep at walk/trot at the moment. Thanks, i'll try a bigger circle while lunging...maybe balance is the issue. Thanks again


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

eliduc said:


> We have retrained many track horses. The best way to prevent a bolt is to teach the horse to insticntively halt when you tell it to. This starts on the ground. It's the second thing you teach it under saddle the first being to move off your leg calmly. You teach your horse to stop reflexively under saddle by doing about three thousand half halts and halts. With high powered horses you have to be careful you don't buzz the horse up in the process. Space the halts and if your horse starts to excite you may have to circle and move on. The only effective way I know of to stop a bolt is to double your horse around. If it is going full speed that can be dangerous and some horses can run with their nose bent to the stirrup. You are a lot safer if you start your horse in a smaller working area like 60 feet square or round. You are correct in that you need a good road map of where you are going with your horse and how to get there. Most off the track horses are initially too much for any but the most experienced riders.


Thanks for all that info from your experiences! Yes i won't do anything for the first time in the open paddock, i'll use the round yard and making sure she will halt STRAIGHT AWAY when i tell her to means she'll be listening to me even more and if she goes to buck/bolt i will be able to get her to halt. Definately going to start teaching her this from the ground. Thanks alot


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## AQHSam (Nov 23, 2011)

My trainer told me not to sweat bucking on a lunge or free lunge. The horse can move at his speed as long as he moves and doesn't stop until I say whoa. 

Sam will lope and buck the first few circles if I haven't worked him in a while and he is hot. One reason I do lunge him is to get his wiggles out before mounting. 

Are you sure this is an issue to be concerned with? Is it bucking or playful galloping?

A one hand stop is what I was taught to bring Sam into control if I ever feel out of control and a whoa was ignored. Bring either rein to the same knee bringing the horses head to your knee. It disengages the rump and they can't buck. I practice this often. It bends the horse but also teaches him to stop. The first few times he circled in place a few rounds. 

Really examine the bucking during lunge. It may be more frolick than you think. I enjoy watching Sam give a little buck to his gallop. He is moving carefree and since I am not on him that's ok.

Just like your horse, Sam will give a buck if I redirect him during the lunge. I guess since my trainer told me not to sweat it, I have no worries with him bucking while riding (from that at least).


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

AQHSam said:


> My trainer told me not to sweat bucking on a lunge or free lunge. The horse can move at his speed as long as he moves and doesn't stop until I say whoa.
> 
> Sam will lope and buck the first few circles if I haven't worked him in a while and he is hot. One reason I do lunge him is to get his wiggles out before mounting.
> 
> ...


Thankyou for all that! I will really take notice of the type of buck as it's not aggressive or directed at me so it could be what you say and maybe there really is nothing to be worried about it's probably just playful. Thanks for that idea, i'm sure i'll be able to get her to do a one hand stop because i've taught her to flex which really helped calm her down when i started riding her and get her use to seeing me on her back


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## eliduc (Apr 5, 2010)

*Bucking on the longe line.*

One other comment. I makes me crazy when I see people allowing their horse to buck on a longe line. Anytime you have a lead or line on a horse it should be under your control. Some people think allowing them to buck gets it out of their system. What it does is reinforces the behavior and the horse is likely to buck and be difficult to control every time it is put on the line. It encourages bad behavior. If a horse acts up on the longe line I immediately either make it halt or I crack the whip and get its feet moving forward. If you want to let your horse blow off a little steam turn it loose in a turn out or arena. If the horse is permitted to buck on a line it will be more apt to buck under saddle since it hasn't been taught not to buck when it is restrained.


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## kevinshorses (Aug 15, 2009)

eliduc said:


> One other comment. I makes me crazy when I see people allowing their horse to buck on a longe line. Anytime you have a lead or line on a horse it should be under your control. Some people think allowing them to buck gets it out of their system. What it does is reinforces the behavior and the horse is likely to buck and be difficult to control every time it is put on the line. It encourages bad behavior. If a horse acts up on the longe line I immediately either make it halt or I crack the whip and get its feet moving forward. If you want to let your horse blow off a little steam turn it loose in a turn out or arena. If the horse is permitted to buck on a line it will be more apt to buck under saddle since it hasn't been taught not to buck when it is restrained.


I totally agree with this. It scares the hell out of me that people are advising you to allow this sort of behaviour while the horse is caught. It makes no difference if the buck is playful or aggressive. It husrts just as much when you hit the ground.


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

eliduc said:


> One other comment. I makes me crazy when I see people allowing their horse to buck on a longe line. Anytime you have a lead or line on a horse it should be under your control. Some people think allowing them to buck gets it out of their system. What it does is reinforces the behavior and the horse is likely to buck and be difficult to control every time it is put on the line. It encourages bad behavior. If a horse acts up on the longe line I immediately either make it halt or I crack the whip and get its feet moving forward. If you want to let your horse blow off a little steam turn it loose in a turn out or arena. If the horse is permitted to buck on a line it will be more apt to buck under saddle since it hasn't been taught not to buck when it is restrained.


That makes a lot of sense to me...i too have heard lots of people say (even 'good' trainers) that it's fine as they can let off steam, they have even recommended lunging before every ride to get the 'bucking' out of them, but i really get what you're saying...there's no way i'd allow her to carry on when i'm leading her from the stable to the yard or to the paddock so why would i accept any different on the lunge??....if i continue to accept it i'm sure it will just get worse and probably transfer to bucking when she's being ridden. Thanks


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## AQHSam (Nov 23, 2011)

I will clarify. My horse has only pulled the gallop buck on free lunge. Not a line. I dont lunge him on a line myself. 

Also, I do the head to my knee at a stop to practice. Not in motion. I work both sides to bend and teach him to stop circling. Should I ever need to stop him that way I am hoping to be more prepared.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

I'll share my experiences with a bolty Arabian mare I've had for 4 years. I don't know if any of it will apply. She has never offered to buck under me.

1 - Avoiding the bolt. Mia will give warning signs, but learning to recognize them and respond in an effective manner is a challenge. I've spent a lot of time during the last 3 months walking her around the neighborhood by herself, and it has given me some practice in noticing when she gets more tense.

It is a balancing act. If I ignore her nervousness and make her push on, she'll eventually explode. If I clamp down too quickly, she becomes angry and frustrated. If, when she is starting to get nervous, I redirect her attention without being a bully, she'll reconnect with me and calm down. 

A - Disengages. If I've waited too long and she is REALLY getting tense, disengages will stop her, at least for a time. However, in walking her, I've noticed she resents more than 1-2 disengage requests. It can be good to do, but a single disengage needs to be followed by something else.

B - Circles. Weaves work better with her. If she is getting nervous and I push her to start doing a lot of circles, she gets worse. Weaves allow her to take a couple of steps forward, followed by a 30 deg turn, few steps, 30 deg turn, etc.

A big circle is better for her than small ones. The trainer and I think that is because she isn't very flexible side-side, and small circles affect her balance. That worries her, and makes her worse.

C - Bit cues. These work well if she is mildly nervous. Just stop her and ask her to bend her neck (not swivel her head), and do some head down cues. A minute of this can do wonders for calming her down.

D - Breathing slow. You, not her. Breath in audibly, hold for 2 seconds, audibly release. It sounds weird, but I've seen her calm on a lunge line doing this, and same from the saddle.

E - Audible cues. She likes hearing her name, and she knows what "Easy" means (calm down or slow down). In a bolt, I've had more luck with calling her name softly than anything else. Our gelding likes it when my daughter sings...haven't tried that on Mia.

F- Restraining bit. Haven't tried it on Mia yet (we've been going thru a few months of retraining with her). Have tried it with my gelding when he gets too worked up in anticipation of cantering, and it works better than turns when he is rushing around with his head up acting like an idiot.

As the right shoulder goes forward, just light pressure on the right rein. Not pulling back, just not moving it forwards with the shoulder. You can practice it at a walk and trot too. Just asking him, as he moves his front leg forward, to not move it so far forward. Then left rein. Repeat. Basically telling him, "not so far with the right, left, right, left, right..."

With Trooper, he'll go from rushing and tossing his head to a slow jog in about 5-6 paces. He responds better to that than turns, etc. 

2 -In the bolt.

A - Turns to slow her down. Ummm....maybe. It takes room. Ask her to turn too quickly, and you set her up for a fall. A gentle turn, slowly getting smaller works if room is available.

B - Pulley stop. In my experience with Mia, it will stop her - for maybe 2 seconds. But she then starts again a bit slower than before.






C - If in doubt, ride it out. There are exceptions - cliffs, heavy traffic - but in an arena, it is usually possible to ride it out. Focus on keeping your knees apart, keep your balance, and just ride your horse. Mia makes me nervous because I have seen her fall at a full gallop with no one on her back...but she has yet to fall with me. Squeezing with your legs (knees!) will prolong the bolt...after all, the horse thinks you are either still scared, or asking to run. Stay in rhythm, knees loose, toes up, enjoy the ride...no, in honesty I find it darn hard to do as well. :evil: :wink:

But my best success at stopping a bolt has come when I make a conscious effort to force my knees wider apart, keep with the horse's rhythm, then gently call her name.

I really don't know if any of this will help your situation or not. Of what I've written, the best advice may be to walk your horse out & around, and let him teach you how to calm him when he is getting nervous. If you can't do it from the ground, you won't be able to on his back.


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## christopher (Feb 11, 2011)

eliduc said:


> What it does is reinforces the behavior and the horse is likely to buck and be difficult to control every time it is put on the line. It encourages bad behavior.


negative. unless it achieves a reinforcement (gets rid of saddle, rider or manipulates it's handler into doing what it wants, for example, halting) and keeping in mind that horses don't just buck for the sake of bucking, allowing it teaches the horse that bucking is not only futile but a waste of energy.


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

bsms said:


> I really don't know if any of this will help your situation or not. Of what I've written, the best advice may be to walk your horse out & around, and let him teach you how to calm him when he is getting nervous. If you can't do it from the ground, you won't be able to on his back.


Thanks so much for all that, really helpful to read your experiences and what has worked for you  She's not really the nervous type if i just walk her around on the ground but spending lots of time with her just at a walk when i'm riding her has really helped me know how she's thinking and read her better.
Also, great advice about the bolting, i think holding on for my life would definately make her speed up.
Thanks for that video, the only query i have with the 'pulley rein' is that i think it may just give her something to grab onto, brace herself and run harder with especially since she's use to all that pressure on her mouth as a race horse. I'll keep her in the round yard until i know she's calm enough forr a ride out in the paddock . Thanks!


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## kevinshorses (Aug 15, 2009)

Just remember that you can ride as fast as she can run! If she does run off then stay with her. It's almost always safer.


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

christopher said:


> negative. unless it achieves a reinforcement (gets rid of saddle, rider or manipulates it's handler into doing what it wants, for example, halting) and keeping in mind that horses don't just buck for the sake of bucking, allowing it teaches the horse that bucking is not only futile but a waste of energy.


Thanks for sharing that,...i know that when she bucks, if i don't allow it by stopping her straight away she'll definately think she's won because she would rather just stand there anyway and i'll be teaching her that if she gets sick of troting around just throw in a buck and i'll let her stop! 
If i just ignore her and continue on i'm sure she'll realise it's getting her nowhere...hopefully this transfers to when i'm riding her and she won't even try it!
Now i think of it... when i first bought her she'd lunge fine to the left but if i stopped her and turned her to the right asking her to walk she's go crazy-bucking and kicking out and trying to spin around to the left again. So when i started to not let her get away with it and force her to lunge to the right (just ignoring her bucking and lunging her twice as much on the side she didn't like) it fixed the problem, now she is happy going both ways...moral of the story she realised bucking was getting her nowhere


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## ReneeM (Jan 11, 2012)

kevinshorses said:


> Just remember that you can ride as fast as she can run! If she does run off then stay with her. It's almost always safer.


Haha, that's true! Yes, i agree...better riding it out than being throw at the ground at high speed  thanks


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