# Barn construction planning and fencing



## ca4ta (Sep 4, 2011)

Hi everyone. I have two horses whom I have boarded for the past 3 years, but the costs are a bit high and I am looking to bring my horses home to save me some $ over the long term. I know it will take a few years, but that is fine. We are looking to build a simple shedrow barn (project hubby and I will take on as we are both very good mechanically) and the fencing as well. Anyone have any ideas on expectations of costs for a 3 stall shedrow barn with an overhang? Since we are planning on doing the building ourselves, we anticipate the savings will be significant. We got quotes for same pre-fab and they started at 12k. If there is anyone out here that has built their own barn, I'd love to hear your story! 

As for the fencing, we are considering electrobraid fencing rather than post/rail and vinyl. Does anyone have experience with electrobraid and how effective it is/safe? I know it is cost effective compared to the other more expensive type of fencing, but we want to ensure it's safe and will contain the horses. 

Thank you and I look forward to your responses.


Cheryl


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

Cost can vary so much depending on choice of material, flooring, how much you do yourself and land prep for the area concerned. 
As for fencing I have used electric tape for well over 20 years in all types of situations. I always intended to upgrade but i never was necessary. If the horses can see it, if the charge is strong enough they will respect it and the cost is much less than more permanent type fencing that I would still have to run electric with to keep the horses off of it. We have run two strands in temporary situations , one across gates but for permanent pasture we used to run three when it was just the drafts and 4 once we had saddle horses and babies to contain. They have to respect it for it to be effective and the key to that is your charger. Never use a charger that isn't rated for that type of fence, choose a charger that will make them take notice if they touch it and make sure you have the fence attached to the charger properly, make sure you have the recommended number of grounds and that you have at least one of your strands as a ground wire, the rest can be hot or you can alternate hot,ground,hot, ground if you have babies and adults. We've had some scuffs if the charger isn't working and the horses run through but no major injuries.


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

ca4ta said:


> We are looking to build a simple shedrow barn (project hubby and I will take on as we are both very good mechanically) and the fencing as well. Anyone have any ideas on expectations of costs for a 3 stall shedrow barn with an overhang? Since we are planning on doing the building ourselves, we anticipate the savings will be significant. We got quotes for same pre-fab and they started at 12k. If there is anyone out here that has built their own barn, I'd love to hear your story!


Here is the simple pole barn/shelter that we built ourselves 2 years ago. It's 28'x30' overall and total cost of materials was around $4500.



















My tips... find a good lumber yard, sawmill, and wholesale siding place. You can save a bundle using rough sawn lumber from a sawmill where appropriate. Use metal roofing/siding. Fast to put up, lasts a long time and doesn't need painting. Use bolts/screws instead of nails; costs a little more, but they don't back out over time, and you'll save on future maintenance.



> As for the fencing, we are considering electrobraid fencing rather than post/rail and vinyl. Does anyone have experience with electrobraid and how effective it is/safe? I know it is cost effective compared to the other more expensive type of fencing, but we want to ensure it's safe and will contain the horses.


Except for our ring and pens, we use electric polyrope like electrobraid in the pastures. All our horses grew up with electric and don't bother with the fence at all, so we typically have only one strand, 3' high, with rebar posts every 30' and have never had a horse go under, over, through it, or injured by it. With a young foal, we add a second strand at 1 1/2' because they tend to sleep and roll under one strand, but he's already big enough that we no longer need it. It only takes a foal a couple times nosing the rope to learn to stay away from it. You can't beat polyrope for price, installation, and maintenance if your horses respect the fence.


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## Zexious (Aug 2, 2013)

ohmygoshthebaby.

Subbing this thread... I can't imagine ever building my own barn, but I'd love to hear everyone's answers!


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## Gaited07 (Jul 25, 2008)

When we built our barn we used metal siding from Morton Buildings. These were seconds and was a fraction of the cost.

We used utility poles from the utility company, again a fraction of the cost.


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## greentree (Feb 27, 2013)

Call National barn. They will give you an estimate, and then you will have an idea. Back in Texas, our local lumberyard sold a kit for barns and storage buildings. It included everything except foundation and labor. You may be able to find a kit like that. 

Nancy


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## PDGx (Mar 24, 2013)

Painhorsemares. What do you use to keep your poly rope taunt ? The plastic winches supplied in this area break in cold weather, and replacing them requires separating splices. I even put 2 per each straight section as they didn't look substantial - and they fail. Thought about using steel winches and springs like high tension wire but they could cut the poly. Poly rope looks best if it's kept relatively tight.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## ca4ta (Sep 4, 2011)

Hi Everyone. Thanks so much for your input. Painthorsemares, the photos you included are great, as that gives me a real good idea on what I can expect. Since I live in NJ, I will have to fashion a barn that is closed up, so they can keep warm in the cold winters. Knowing what others did will help me to scavange the local lumber yards. There happens to be a Morton building office near me, so perhaps I can convince them to purchase their seconds when i need to construct the barn. And I love the idea of getting poles from the utility company. Now to figure out how to get those huge poles to my house. I will have all fall/winter to plan this as we dont intend to start construction on this until spring of 2014. I am wondering however, what to use as a foundation. I dont really want to pour concrete (which would be excellent for cleanliness but too costly). I'm guessing we'll need stone of some sort and will need to figure out just how much we'll need and how far out to extend it from the barn. Thanks again!


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

For perimeter fencing your best bet is heavier guage electric wire. The ribbon types are subject to the stresses of wind and sun. The ribbon types work well if creating separate paddocks for rotation grazing. Should it break the horse/s are still contained within the perimeter fencing. If the charger is working well the horses will sense the electricity in the wire and will keep their distance.


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

PDGx said:


> Painhorsemares. What do you use to keep your poly rope taunt ? The plastic winches supplied in this area break in cold weather, and replacing them requires separating splices. I even put 2 per each straight section as they didn't look substantial - and they fail. Thought about using steel winches and springs like high tension wire but they could cut the poly. Poly rope looks best if it's kept relatively tight.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


We don't use the winches. In my experience, the most sag will happen right after you install it and it stretches a bit. We just tighten it back up at the splice/corner/etc. As for looks about the sag, you're probably better off putting the posts closer if it bothers you.


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

ca4ta said:


> And I love the idea of getting poles from the utility company. Now to figure out how to get those huge poles to my house.


In the old days, we all used old utility poles. Keep in mind, though, when building with them it's more work because you have to notch them and generally harder to work with than nice dimensionally cut lumber, e.g. 6x6s.

BTW, around here, our rural electric co-op will bring the utility poles to you...check with your electric company.



> I am wondering however, what to use as a foundation. I dont really want to pour concrete (which would be excellent for cleanliness but too costly). I'm guessing we'll need stone of some sort and will need to figure out just how much we'll need and how far out to extend it from the barn.


A big benefit of pole barns is that you don't need a foundation to provide any support. All the weight is carried by the poles. As far flooring, we just leave ours dirt, but you can really do whatever you want.


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

ca4ta said:


> Since I live in NJ, I will have to fashion a barn that is closed up, so they can keep warm in the cold winters.


Sorry for another post, but I forgot to add that another advantage of a simple pole barn is that you have a lot of flexibility. If you look at the picture below when we built ours, once the load bearing structure is done, you can do whatever your want, walls, doors, windows, stalls, etc. without having to worry/plan for any load.

Another tip from us "cheap" folks. If you have a horse trailer, it makes a great work platform for working on the roof, etc....beats working on ladders.



















Since we wanted a shelter and didn't need stalls, we added that first, put up some corral panels, and they had something covered...










...then started the north/west wall siding before the winter to block the wind...


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

hi, google how to build a barn. You will find many sites, and some have free downloads for the plans. You need to check with your local building codes , it would be terrible to put up a barn to have to tear it down . You can leave the flooring dirt, but down stall mats, tractor supply usually has the 4 x6 mats for around 35 - 40 each. (i used them for my trailer) 
If you get snow, I would use a tin roof so the snow could slide off, plus it makes it fireproof, draw back .. noise from rain and hail may attract lightening. Go look at local barns and find a design you like. You will want a tack room, someplace for feed, . If I lived where it snowed, I would also have an indoor wash rack / stock / grooming area. lol I would need a much larger income to get what I want !! If you have dry lot pens, I would not use electric tape, mine escape with a 2 " wide hot tape all the time , and it will knock a person to the ground, and the just trampled the braid and single wire .


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

Painted horses.. I am going to tell my hubby about the horse trailer to stand on. never thought of that.. But will need to make sure the roof does not dent. i would be really mad to have feet print on the top of my trailer.


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

stevenson said:


> Painted horses.. I am going to tell my hubby about the horse trailer to stand on. never thought of that.. But will need to make sure the roof does not dent. i would be really mad to have feet print on the top of my trailer.


I put thin plywood,, 1/4 or 3/8, on top to help distribute the weight because you're right, you can dent the roof if you just stomp around up top.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

Sorry to ask, but you are zoned for horses, right? I wondered bc you didn't say that you had existing farm buildings on your property. Hope you are and everything goes well.


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## ca4ta (Sep 4, 2011)

Yes, I have checked all local ordinances and met with the town's zoning officer. He did confirm that I'm all set to have the horses here. The town I'm in does not have many restrictions on the type of barn built, but certainly does on it's set back, etc... That will all be handled prior to start of any construction so there is no need to do a tear down. We are planting our pasture grass seed this weekend in an effort to get the pasture a good start. We plan on figuring out exactly what we are going to build, and how over the winter months and will begin actual construction either late spring or early summer next year which will bring the horses over around this time next year. That's the plan anyway....but the best laid plans always change or morph as needed. It will be interesting to see what this project looks like when it's all done.


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