# Stronger than a snaffle, but not harsh.



## Gidget (Jan 19, 2010)

i'm not an expert by any means but depending on his past owners he might not be comfortable in other bits and take advantage because he was use to the kimberwick bit. There might have been a reason why they used that one. I'm trying new bits with my horse and she doesn't like the o ring snaffles or d ring snaffles. She does well in a curb style bit..have you tried those?


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## Eolith (Sep 30, 2007)

From the sounds of it, the only thing that would be a step above the snaffle while still not as harsh as a kimberwick would be a pelham. A kimberwick acts on their chin _every_ time you use the reins, while the pelham would only act on their chin if you made use of the curb rein.

This style of bit does require another set of reins so you would need to be certain that you're holding and handling both sets of reins appropriately. The harsher the bit, the more careful you need to be that you use it well. If you use it inappropriately your horse will only become more resistant.

I highly suggest reading the thread on bits in this section so that you understand fully the functions and appropriate applications of each style of bit. http://www.horseforum.com/horse-tack-equipment/bit-information-snaffle-english-type-bits-36522/

Keep in mind that *any* bit can be harsh depending on how the rider utilizes it. Even snaffles. Finally, I will mention that you may not always need a pelham or harsher bit. When we first got my pony she was a sour thing with no respect for us and we had to use a kimberwick for about a month before she settled down and got the point that she needed to listen to us. As you can see in my avvie, she's currently being ridden in a simple snaffle and doing quite well. So it may be the case that you only need a different bit for a short time and will eventually be able to graduate back to a regular snaffle.


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## SexyBabeHorse (Jul 24, 2010)

Call in the horse whisperer


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## alexischristina (Jun 30, 2009)

Yes, that's what I was thinking. I would like to be able to put him back into the french link eventually, but for the 'here and now' I'd like something stronger. I had him in a kimberwick for the first little while of riding him, but an injury and winter off turned him into a stubborn little fart. I was contemplating using the kimberwick again for a bit, but we don't have one that fits his big head. I did take a look at that thread, but it was a bit... overwhelming, I'll try to sort it out again though, thanks.


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## AnnaLover (Sep 27, 2009)

My mare was a brat with an eggbutt snaffle because I think she was ridden with a harsher bit in her previous home so i switched to this: Black Steel Training Snaffle Bit 5 Inch Mouth - Horse.com and it has worked wonders. It's still a mild bit if used correctly


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## alexischristina (Jun 30, 2009)

Hm... I like the sounds of it from the reviews, has anybody else around here used one/heard of anybody who has used one and been happy with it?

Dumb question, but does it only come in the one size? Or is that just a specific page?


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## Cinnys Whinny (Apr 10, 2010)

I don't know about the putting the nose between the knees and bucking part, but I know as for steering a full cheek can help. It's not any harsher than a snaffle but when you use rein cues it gives a little extra side pressure. Now that I think of it a Fulmer might help both, it's just a like a full cheek but with rings that slide so they can't get leverage on the bit, which might help keep the head up. I don't know...


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## Eolith (Sep 30, 2007)

The bit that AnnaLover posted is a western bit. I honestly do not feel that it would be very appropriate to ride with english contact and direct reining with this bit.

Take it slow going through the bit thread and don't let yourself get too overwhelmed. I highly recommend getting a full understanding of all the different styles and their purposes. It helped me a great deal, and I think that only once you know about all the different styles will you have the best idea of what is suitable for your horse.


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## AnnaLover (Sep 27, 2009)

Oops.. she did use some words that hinted to her being an English rider but I must not have caught on xP


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## kevinshorses (Aug 15, 2009)

Keep the french link and use more horsemanship. Figure out a way to disengage the hindquarters and start to move the body around. Forget about pulling on the face and start RIDING the horse. There are big holes in his training and until those are filled changing bits is just hiding the problem and problems are not solved by hiding them. Don't ride with contact and don't pull with both hands at the same time. Make the reins mean something. When you pull a rein don't release until you get the desired change then release immediately. 

I know you were looking for a suggestion for "here and now" but here and now is when this behavior should be fixed not later.


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## chevaliernr (May 24, 2009)

Have you ever tried him in a rubber snaffle? I've had a couple horses who wouldn't give to a regular snaffle that absolutely LOVED a rubber.


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## mom2pride (May 5, 2009)

I think you need to fix these 'power steering issues' from the ground up, not simply find a bit that he won't try to evade. 

What you need to do is start teaching him to bend and flex, and over all become supple from the ground up...you can use a rope halter, or your bit of choice. Pull the lead, or rein to his side, and hold it there til he offers to give, even just the slightest. Let the rein go, as his reward, and then take it up again. When he has that down, start adding some motion to the exercise, have him do a tiny circle around you, while maintaining suppleness; nose pointed toward you, hip slightly away, body in an arc...his legs should 'cross' at the same moments and the same 'angles...in other words, his right front should be moving 'out' at the same time his left rear is moving in across his left rear. This will help him learn how to balance his body, while maintaining suppleness. Do both sides of course, and I like to concentrate alot on the 'bad' side...say do the side he is more supple on 3-4 times, then do the 'bad' or less supple side 5-6 times in a session. Always reward his best effort. I wish I had pictures to demonstrate what I'm talking about, but check out Clinton Anderson's Down Under Horsemanship book, as I use alot of his exercises to help a horse along, with suppleness, respect, and balance.


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## Tymer (Dec 28, 2009)

After getting a little bullied for my barn using gags often (I actually found out why and its a fairly legitimate reason) I learned that a harsher bit is only the solution to the behavior problem of bit respect. Even that can be solved by other methods. 

I would use some of the above methods and look for the deeper issues. Though, if it would make you more comfortable to have a stronger bit in your hands, I recommend a pelham.


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## lilruffian (Jun 28, 2010)

This sounds harsh, but again it only depends on how hard you are with the reins, but you could try a twisted snaffle. They look meaner, but if you handle them properly, they won't hurt your horse & they have an extra bite to them should you need more control.


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## luvs2ride1979 (Nov 9, 2007)

I agree with having a saddle fitting and a chiropractor look at his back. If all of the checks out okay, then I would try a full cheek with a french link or copper roller, or a Myler full cheek with a "comfort mouth" and the hooks on the side for the headstall and reins.

Myler:
Myler Comfort Snaffle Wide Full Cheek Bit

French Link Full Cheek:
Full Cheek French Link Bit

I know some people have had good luck with a Segunda mouth Full Cheek, but I have never tried one myself. It just looks a bit too harsh IMO, but it's up to you.
Full Cheek Segunda Bit

For one of our horses that was a western trail horse before we got him, we used a low port Kimberwick with the reins on the bottom slot. After a month or so of training we moved him to the top slots. 
Uxeter Kimberwicke Bit

Now he goes in a full cheek copper roller bit very well.
Copper Roller Link Full Cheek Bit, Horse Bits,


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## lilruffian (Jun 28, 2010)

If you use a western-type bit, i'd try a tom-thumb. It's not too harsh but has shanks, which provides leverage.


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## vivache (Jun 14, 2009)

Tom Thumbs are harsh bits. Well, they're harsh in that they are confusing. The straight shanks and broken mouthpiece doesn't do well.


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## thats me (Jul 26, 2010)

i think that it will be a bit of trial and error. it may be that your horse will respond more to a different texture or taste of a bit. personally i would try a sweet iron, copper or even a rubber or flavored its a matter of finding out what works with your horse. most of these bits i mentioned come in many styles so speak with your stockest they are avalible but may need to be ordered in.. good luck


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## mom2pride (May 5, 2009)

lilruffian said:


> If you use a western-type bit, i'd try a tom-thumb. It's not too harsh but has shanks, which provides leverage.


I have to disagree with you here...Tom Thumbs are not a 'soft' bit at all...I won't use them at all, even on my trained horses. These bits, along with your standard curb bits, I throw away...there is no real give on them especially the tom thumb, just because of it's design. That and even though the shanks aren't solidly affixed to the mouthpeice like most curbs they aren't a loose shank either, with can really confuse a horse, and although people use them as 'two handed' bits, they aren't designed for that purpose at all.


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## alexischristina (Jun 30, 2009)

To a few of the above posts-
we have been working with a lot of these exercises, or similar ones. We started from the ground up, and he's doing wonderfully, save for taking advantage of the bit. He moves well off of leg pressure, and after a good correction he stopped with the 'nose-to-the-ground' thing, and I'm thinking of just going with a full cheek piece along with what we're doing. 
He needs to learn how to respect a softer bit, as a harsher one was always used, and I was told we need a 'transition' from harsher to soft.


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## Icyred (Mar 31, 2009)

Have you tried using a full cheek double jointed snaffle of some sorts? You would get more steering control and such from the full cheek but have the comfort of the double joints? Also maybe try sweet iron I know a lot of horses prefer that to plain stainless steal...


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