# Converting carport into a barn



## KBA6 (Aug 24, 2013)

To give you a better idea of what I am working with, here are a couple of pictures of what the carport looks like now. 

I plan to use the red building for my tack, maybe feed. But I will be sharing it with the hubby and his tools.


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

The immediate things I see are: 1) floor - is it cement? dirt? I'd recommend you think about rubber mats - I use them in my barn with dirt floor and they make it easier to clean, keep the floor in better condition and are safe and comfortable for the horses. 2) the sides/posts (and most important part here) - I suspect structurally they will not support solid walls. If that is the case you will need to work up a solution such as placement of 6x6 treated posts placed in the ground about three feet deep and use those to secure your walls to; put in a cement footing with accompanying metal rod supports (they're about a foot high and placed every three/four feet) that you will put you walls on (holes are drilled in the bottom frame to match up) and then screw them down. Either way, you'll also need to build in cross supports at the top of the walls that connect all sides together so you avoid shifting or set you stalls/dividers up to do the same task.

Otherwise, you've got the bare bones there which is a help.

Good luck with the project and I'd love to see pictures as you progress and eventually finish it.


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## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

Keep in mind that your doors need to be designed so they work with the slope of the ground. Either design them so the hinged side in on the lower end and angle cut the bottom of the doors or design them so there is sufficient clearance on the high side which will mean a space on the low side. Same goes for the hanging door - the door opening will be on the high side.

Building on a slope is always special. 

Another option for the floor is good gravel, something that bites/locks into itself and will form a base. Up here we call it A gravel. Or crusher dust is popular as well.

Do you know if there is water run-off around / in the area? You may need to plan some kind of water barrier/guidance/tile system with the goal to keep the water away from the inside and both ends of the barn. Remember those horses will tear up the ground pretty quickly if/when it gets wet.

Chevaux has a very valid point about the structural stability of that shed. Stalls need to be strong as some horses aren't all that kind to them. Honestly, depending just how affixed that shed is, I'd be more likely (if money and time allowed) to dismantle it and start fresh. You could use the roofing maybe for a new building. Or you could build a stall area next to it, using the 20x20 area for feed/tack/gear and a place to tack up, groom etc.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

You actually have the most important part...roof of the shelter.
How high is it because it_ is_ on a angle or slope? I would use the lower side so higher height side for "stalls" if you truly need to do them and keep the shorter side where you will walk and store things.
You need a windbreak depending upon the location of the structure so prevailing cold winds, rains are stopped if looking to give the horses a refuge from the weather.
Don't be surprised though if your horses use the trees more than the barn....

I think before you can truly discuss layout you need to determine how many horses you will have in total.
If 2 horses, then 2 stalls is fine.
If 3 horses, then 3 stalls and different configuration and storage need doing.

For me, 20x20 sounds large but_* is not*_ for large animals, "permanent" wall dividers take up considerable space allotment.
Thinking about stalls you have space for 2 10x10 or 2 10x12.....you wanted a area for grooming in inclement weather right? 
That takes the other 10x10 space easily and not a easy configuration for "added storage" and getting in or out of all stalls.
As a open area where the multiple horses can come and go at will, it will be great and work well.

That red barn shed, _would become my feed area for storage_ and daily keeping of rakes, wheelbarrows and such. I would not try keeping feed & hay under this shelter unless you can horse, weather and rodent proof it. Horses have a incredible knack for getting into things they should not...
Those red barn shed doors that close tightly and lock keep mouths from eating to much of what they should not.... 
The solid walls and roof also keep wild animals out of contaminating your food stuffs, plus keeping it dry from blowing rains and snow.
Ummm... what you think of as a hay storage area...you referred to 8 bales of hay {50 pound each?} if _only_ feeding hay, no pasture, during winter will give you about 3 weeks for 1 horse. 
Average I found this time of the year... I feed 10 bales per horse per month...and this is _not_ continuous unlimited hay either. I have pasture mine nibble during the day, but I feed hay 2x every day...just something to think about when making those dimensions and numbers work for storage needs.

I won't even get into flooring thoughts as dirt is just fine for a run-in type of shelter barn. You don't need mats or concrete or any of the other things people use. _{plan on mucking the run-in area too as some use it regardless for the potty!}_
More importantly to me would be leveling out that floor area and making sure you have adequate head clearance at the sidewall location.... 
You can get lumber in 16' in most Lowe's/Home Depot store and 20' lengths special order. You can also have "sides" installed in the same metal material to close in and weather-tite the enclosure....:think:
If you do metal sides you really need then to do a wood wall inside so a badly placed hoof doesn't connect with that thin metal and go through with a terrible injury happening.

Oh...not every horse needs a companion either. Some are very content and happy by themself, some are not. 
More things to think about. 

Honestly, I would leave it as open as possible and use it as a run-in shelter....closing it in or partitioning it off suddenly makes it _small_ and cramped to me.

Congratulations on the new home and looking to bring your friend{s} home soon.:wink:

_jmo..._


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## HombresArablegacy (Oct 12, 2013)

I don't know if you're planning to enclose the entire area of the carport, but before horses are allowed access to it you need to cover all edges of the metal roof that come down over the sides, as that metal is razor sharp.Both sides and front and back. You can drill through the metal and attach pressure treated 2x6 or 2x8 lumber inside and outside so the horses don't cut themselves.Drill the holes and then attach with bolts and nuts. The ends of the bolts where the nuts are tightened can be counter sunk into the wood so they don't protrude.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## KBA6 (Aug 24, 2013)

As far as the floor, it looks like gravel and dirt compacted together. Trying to dig with a garden shovel was soooo hard. I have been watching the floor during rains and the inside of this car port stays dry. We've been here through the winter now - a wet winter - and the floor hasn't even had a trickle run through it.

Also the structure is sound and I've already been told that building up the sides wouldn't be a problem. Those two things were my main reasons of converting it to a barn/run in, so dismantling and starting fresh seems to be counter productive. But keeping it open as much as possible does give me the option of adding on to this later.

The area just past the stalls I was planning on having bulldozed level (not inside the roof itself) so that doors could close and so the horses won't create a slippery mud slide coming into the barn. Also I want to bring in some creek gravel for this area.

I was thinking of bringing the gravel into the stalls as well, and then put down some cedar chips on top so it would be easier to clean and there would be some pee drainage.  But that might be a bad idea if a horse has to be stalled for a while... (important note: my horse has never been stalled- the only reason for the stalls is to separate horses while feeding and for vet care.

Changing the layout of the stalls so that they are along the "high side" of the carport is a really good idea that i didn't think about, thank you for that!

As far as hay goes... this is basically all the storage I have, so I figure I can store at least 50 bales. I'll just have to make more hay runs... but they have 10 acres of pasture so they will be fine.


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

it looks like it could flood. I would leave it as open as possible.
I would get some pallets or something to stack the hay. Divide it in half.
You could use portable fence panels to divide the horses away from the hay , and just finish the open sides with some siding. I would not add water troughs in there, just use it for feeding .


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## SummerBlaze1 (Jan 3, 2015)

Pretty smart!


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## KBA6 (Aug 24, 2013)

Why wouldn't you have the water trough in there? 

I've never seen anyone put one in the barn or stalls, but I was thinking it would be a good way to keep leaves and debris out, as well as keep it close to an outlet so I can use a water heater in the winter.


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## Zexious (Aug 2, 2013)

Subbing. Looks like you have a solid enough start


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

I would not put the water in there, as when you have to dump it to clean it it will make a puddle. plus they get hay in the water when it is close to the feeders and that is a stinky mess.
My water troughs are at one end of the pens, and hay is fed at the other . Same goes for the pastured horses, water in one area and hay in another.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

A horse with an itchy bum will make short work of those uprights. The only time horses like to go in is when the bugs are bad and then a real dark area helps. Two horses like to be together, often standing head to tail so two stalls aren't really necessary. I always find mine in one stall in summer. When the bugs are gone, the barn is empty until the next bug season. That looks like a good place to store hay. Pallets stacked two high allows plenty of air to move underneath altho a large plastic tarp should be laid down first on the ground whether it's dirt or cement as a vapor barrier.


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## Kristyjog (Nov 11, 2013)

On pinterest their are quite a few layouts people have done using this type carport. They barns actually looks pretty neat when finished.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## RBuchele10 (Aug 19, 2014)

Here is an article that was posted by Stable Management, using a similar structure. 

Mulligans Run Farm Barn

You do have a slope to your property there -- is there a way to flatten it ? Perhaps bring in more dirt or tamp it down with a fine stone gravel? I feel as though the angle will make a good number of daily logistics a big more difficult - ie, gate usage, stall walls and doors, footing/balance, storage and the initial construction can be complicated with uneven terrain.


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## Canterklutz (Jul 20, 2012)

RBuchele10 said:


> Here is an article that was posted by Stable Management, using a similar structure.
> 
> Mulligans Run Farm Barn


It's always fascinating to see the innovative ideas people come up with.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

I would extend the roof to make a stall or two on the low side. Horses only go in when the bugs are bad and they like to share a stall often standing head to rump.


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## They Call Me Pete (Oct 27, 2009)

I just finished making a run-in with the same structure. Ours is 12x20


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Pete, I'm looking at your avatar - do you have slow children who ride?


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## They Call Me Pete (Oct 27, 2009)

My girls are anything but slow. Most of the time it two speeds, standing still and cantering. If they could gallop they would :lol: Street sign I drove by on a back country road


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## mred (Jan 7, 2015)

I bought three of these buildings, one 40 by 40, one 40 by 60 and one 24 by 75. I paid $3000 for all. All had siding down both outside walls. Frames on both 40 ft. building in great shape. Paid to have them taken down and hauled to my farm. I plan to use 40 by 40 as hay storage. I want to use the 40 by 60 as a staple. I like the ideal of wood siding. I am looking at concrete footing. Still a year away for it. The outside wall height of the buildings is 9 plus feet.


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