# How best to stop a bolt?



## Sharpie (May 24, 2009)

So, on day two of owning Jayne, we had a bit of a bolt. I've been riding him for a few weeks, this is the first time, and it's not a problem for me in terms of fear/etc but I want to handle it better. We were trail riding and I was chatting with the rider behind me. I did not see the bicycle riding near us, but all was well anyway until the horse behind us exploded, causing everyone to spook. (I was told this is what happened after the fact.) What I know is that I was turned halfway around to the right say something to the person behind me one second and galloping down the beach the next. I was a little unseated, my left knee ended up near the pommel and lost my stirrups, but I got my behind back where it belonged (after being certain I was gonna eat dirt for a couple-five strides) and pulled him back down to a walk, then turned around and we continued on with our day.

Is it better to pull a horse back down straight (if they will listen) or one-rein stop? What if they're in a curb bit? I was worried about pulling him off balance, especially since I was a bit unbalanced, and he listened well enough, but is there a rule of thumb about this? Similarly, I've ridden horses who have spooked, started going backwards and gotten pretty light in the front- best course of action there?

I know it's better to prevent this stuff by paying attention to what's going on around me in the first place, but I doubt I will go through life without ever having a horse bolt on me again, so words of wisdom from the more experienced folks out there? This stuff is never something I've really gotten to practice during lessons. :wink:


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## FreeDestiny (Jul 3, 2011)

Don't rely completely on your reins if your horse bolts, they're most likely just going to throw their heads and settle down on their own time. Sit deep in your saddle, let your body follow their movements so you don't get pitched off, and I find saying woah, whether the horse was taught verbal commands or not, works. I'm not saying leave your reins hanging there for nothing, but sitting like a rag doll with your reins pulled back over your head isn't going to help. Pull back with steady contact, one rein stopping is good, but I'm not sure how it would work in a solid-shanked curb. If your horse starts backing, give them the rein and push them forward, if you feel they're going to rear, pull on one rein, even if their nose touches your leg, they're going to have no option but to turn. Like you said, the best thing is to learn your horses ' warning signs ' whether it be ears, head, back, leg placement, anything, with time you'll get to know your horses quirks.

I'd love to see a 'spook preparedness' lesson, 'okay everyone, I'm going to spook your horses repeatedly so you can learn to deal with it'. Right 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bubba13 (Jan 6, 2007)

I do not like the true one rein stop. I think it is dangerous. Instead, I will pull on one rein and ask the horse to flex, not bend completely in half. Slowly, I will pulse up on that rein, gradually circling the horse or otherwise throwing him off balance. You can alternate sides, as well.

Pulling straight back with constant pressure is ineffective. Jerking rapidly is also ineffective. Instead, you can rhythmically pulsate pressure, gradually on hard, gradually off, gradually on hard, and so on, timed with your horse's strides.


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## SarahAnn (Oct 22, 2011)

I agree with FreeDestiny. The closest I've ever come is practicing the "emergency dismount" which is actually fun if you're not actually in an emergency situation. If only you could take lessons on spooked horses! I have a Paint that's really spooky sometimes, and it is good practice for sure. I had a friend with a crazy arab that was a wacko anytime he didn't like anything at all... Hind sight, he'd probably be a great horse to practice this type of thing on! 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Saskia (Aug 26, 2009)

I'd try pulling him up with two reins. Sit back, half halt a bit, and steadily pull him up. But if he's bolting outright and not listening to you at all, well first I'd try and do a circle, gradually growing smaller and my last choice would be a one rein, because I think pulling them in a circle at that speed can be very unbalancing and dangerous in its own way, and I normally ride in loose ring snaffles and the ring will likely get pulled through the mouth, rather than stopping like full cheek snaffle that I used to teach my horse those sort of turns.


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## Kiviknon (Jul 26, 2010)

I tighten my calves, take a couple spots from my flask and wait it out
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

There are several options, and I don't have an opinion on which is best. I think it varies with the situation.

One is the one-rein stop, which is not supposed to be "Pull the horse's nose to your knee and force him to stop". That is how I was taught it, but I've ops checked it on a gelding and we nearly went thru a barbed wire fence. Horses CAN gallop with their heads twisted around.

I believe the one rein stop is supposed to be a trained thing. At least, that is how one instructor told me to use it. In most cases, I think if you have room, a spiral that slows them down is good.






Another option is the pulley stop:






I've tried it while riding with a halter instead of a bridle, and it worked OK. The advantage is a straight stop, but the horse (mine, at least) will bolt again when pressure is released. The worst I have been hurt riding was when I tried to dismount after stopping her, and she bolted in mid-dismount. I landed back first on some rocks, and my back still hurts 3.5 years later.

I refused to use it on a bolt about 6 months ago, because I felt she would topple if I did. I don't know why I thought that...maybe she felt unbalanced to my subconscious mind.

If the terrain permits, what has worked best for me is my voice. "Easy" is my verbal command to drop down a gait. Settling in my seat, spreading my knees (I tend to clutch with my knees when nervous), loose reins and softly calling "Easy" has sometimes dropped her down a notch within a few steps. Once she remembers I'm there, she calms down.

If someone has the perfect, works every time technique, I'd sure like to know it. I need it...


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## MyBoyPuck (Mar 27, 2009)

Nice videos showing the difference between the two stops. I use the one rein stop to prevent a bolt, but after he's in gear, pulley rein is the only safe way to go unless you have an enormously large area to circle until the horse runs out of steam. I watched a jockey use the pulley rein on a racehorse who took off after a race. He had him under control in seconds. It didn't throw the horse off balance and was very impressive to watch.


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## MN Tigerstripes (Feb 20, 2009)

I've always used my voice (saying "easy" and "ease up") with a blocking seat and contact on the reins. I don't pull or jerk, but keep in contact with him. Pulling/jerking seems to make him more anxious, while just having contact seems to help him remember I'm there and I'll take care of the problem. It works for Soda very well, but I've done a ton of work with him on it, silly boy is one of those "spin and bolters." 

I used a one rein stop once and it worked, but it isn't always feasible where I ride.


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## MyBoyPuck (Mar 27, 2009)

Ah the combo spin and bolt. That's a fun maneuver to ride out! You do bring up an interesting point. Keeping contact in a flowing manner and easing the horse back is always more productive than giving him something to brace against.


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## SpottedDraftRider (Jun 26, 2011)

What I do when a horse bolts varies quite a bit. If I am in an arena and the horse is still responsive to my aids then I will make them go in a circle and squeeze the reins every stride till they calm down (using a calm or strong voice is good, but if your voice is nervous or scared it makes the situation worse). If the horse is responsive but I am not in the arena then I try to have a little of a restricting seat and squeeze on the reins. If I am in the arena and the horse isn't responsive I have had to use the pulley rein to steer them into walls so I wouldn't possibly injure the other horses and riders with me. If I'm not in the arena and the horse isn't responsive then I just ride it out and keep the horse out of way of objects until the horse is responsive and I can ask them to stop. That is how I handle it after a horse I owned that loved to bolt.


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## kevinshorses (Aug 15, 2009)

Any horse I ride that tries to bolt had better stop in about 2 strides because if it takes longer than that I'm going to stop trying to stop the horse and go to spurring. The runaway doesn't last long after that and rarely happens again. There is possibly nothing I hate worse than a runaway.


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## MyBoyPuck (Mar 27, 2009)

kevinshorses said:


> Any horse I ride that tries to bolt had better stop in about 2 strides because if it takes longer than that I'm going to stop trying to stop the horse and go to spurring.


I had a friend do that once! She got sick of trying to stop his bolts and decided to make him keep running. Every time he tried to slow down, she made him gallop again. I think the horse thought she was nuts, but he never tried it again after that.


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## Sharpie (May 24, 2009)

kevinshorses said:


> Any horse I ride that tries to bolt had better stop in about 2 strides because if it takes longer than that I'm going to stop trying to stop the horse and go to spurring. The runaway doesn't last long after that and rarely happens again. There is possibly nothing I hate worse than a runaway.


I bet that's effective! I don't know if I'd have the guts to do that yet... or that much space to run. Lucky for me none of the horses I've been on that bolted got more than 50-100 yards, and half of that is me getting myself under control and convincing my legs to relax before actually doing anything about the horse. 

ETA: That's in the wide open, never had a horse try to actually bolt in an arena or pasture with me.


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## Walkamile (Dec 29, 2008)

MyBoyPuck said:


> I had a friend do that once! She got sick of trying to stop his bolts and decided to make him keep running. Every time he tried to slow down, she made him gallop again. I think the horse thought she was nuts, but he never tried it again after that.


Walka took off with me.....once. Like Kevin, I made his idea the worst one ever, and when I finally asked him to stop, he couldn't do it fast enough. I was on a very narrow trail at the time and felt it was the only safe choice. He has never done this since that day.


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## xxBarry Godden (Jul 17, 2009)

There are several long threads on the forum which discuss how to handle a horse which is bolting. I suggest you do a search and look them up.

A western rider will utilise the one rein stop - the English rider will pull back on the reins and try to bend the horse's neck onto its supple side. But neither is a good answer.

Far more important is for the rider to be in full control of the horse throughout the ride. Even an otherwise calm horse being ridden in a string of horses is prone to the mood and atmosphere of the group of horses. If one bolts then there is a good change that the other horses will be tempted to follow.

So the proper answer to your question is : don't allow yourself to be in a situation where the horse can take off, stretch its neck and snatch the reins from your hands. By all means talk to your companions but don't relax your concentration of steering and controlling the horse. And as for riding on a long loose rein rather than collected with a light contact with the horse's mouth - well you are asking for trouble - going out or coming home.

A horse which learns to bolt - out of gross disobedience is a danger to the rider and itself. It must be re-schooled and the rider must be taught how to keep the horse under control. 

A horse which runs out of fear must be desensitised to whatever caused the fear, be it dogs, geese, pigs, donkeys - whatever.

Ambling along on a bright sunny day with a few companions is a delight, but that is just when a mischievious horse knows when to have some fun. If you come off at the bolt after being thrown off guard you'll hit the ground with force.

If you want to learn how to keep an excited horse under control - I suggest you talk with some local riders who go fox hunting. They will show you the tips - they have the problem from the moment the huntsman first blows his horn.


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## BCtazzie (Jun 7, 2011)

^^ YES! I remember a few people that still owe their hunt club a jug of port due to passing the Hunts master at full speed..


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

My horse gets strong and over-forward and then bolts when I get scared. He is anglo-arab so very sensitive to my emotions, fear especially. My coach is teaching me how to shut him down and what we do is kind of similar to the pulley rein but it's not constant pressure on the free hand... as it is an EMERGENCY stop (and we use a snaffle) firm on-off-on-off pressure works much better. You don't yank, you don't give the horse anything to fight against. The release is the most important part. I'm still working on that!!

I have seen my coach employ the emergency stop he is teaching me, using it on a VERY strong and wilful 15hh welsh cob... he could stop that cob every time within the space of a stride.

I disagree with Barry, a long loose rein is not necessarily a recipe for disaster. It depends on the horse, and how fast the rider can shorten their reins. Long reins mean little to no leverage which means little to no stopping power. A skilled rider with a strong position can stop pretty much any horse if they have to (the example my coach used was a 17hh OTTB that thinks it's race day). It's when we have weaknesses in our position that our horses can pull us off balance and get away from us. I have a tendency to slouch a little bit and I definitely have pram hands... causing all the problems I have with Monty, including difficulty getting him to work into the bridle. It's a bit hard for him to work into a contact when that contact is inconsistent.

As a person who has struggled with this issue with three horses now, the best thing you can do is get a good coach and learn how to shut your horse down as soon as the feel changes. As soon as he goes heavy on the forehand, I know that Monty is about to buck, and I know I have to shut him down. He bucks in the canter sometimes, especially the transitions, and that is how he gets away from me. As soon as that head goes down and his forehand is heavier, I have to shut him down and bring him back to a trot.

As soon as he gets heavy in my hands when we're jumping, I have to shut him down. Walk or halt, either works. He gets strong, he is NOT allowed to jump. He has to listen to a 1/10 aid or he doesn't jump. I have had to apply 10/10 to get him to stop!! Didn't really like doing that but it did make him lighter. You give them the option to respond to the light aid and then you get tough on them. With a young or green horse the aids you use progress from the lightest touch upwards until you get a result. SLOWLY. With a horse that KNOWS, it's literally, touch 'pretty please' and if no result 'YOU WILL DO IT NOW'. The trick is knowing how much your individual needs, and it varies according to the horse's energy level on the day.

With a horse that is strong, or a bolter, you have issues in the slower gaits as well as the canter and/or jumping, so the basic flatwork is going to help. Respect is vital. Respect of ALL the aids! You have to have a soft stop, soft forward (CONTROLLED forward with good rhythm at the gait/length of stride you are asking for), and very good soft left and right turns. If those basics aren't there, that's when you have a horse that is difficult. My coach likes me to re-establish the very very basics every time I warm my horse up.

Now, I hate using the 10/10 aid, but it is necessary sometimes! 10/10 is only for emergencies when you can't stop the horse no matter what else you do. It is ALL your strength, coming from a STRONG position, core engaged and heels down. The release and soften from YOU is the most important part of any aid. My coach is always at me to be firm with Monty. FIRM, not harsh, not rough. You don't yank. Ever. Not unless it's a REAL emergency and you really need STOP NOW NO QUESTIONS JUST DO IT.

Boy I wish I'd had the confidence and strength of position to use the 10/10 aid back months ago when I had my bad fall... that fall would never have happened. I firmly believe that had I not been wearing a helmet I would have died that day, or worse, ended up with some degree of brain damage. Long story short, we were galloping, Monty got too forward, and he wouldn't slow up no matter what I did... because I didn't have the strength of position to apply an aid strong enough.

I believe he would have bolted with me (AGAIN. for about the 10th time) today had my coach not been there to help me shut him down. Mind, it's not easy to fall out of my saddle, but even so, being bolted with is terrifying. I have fallen out of my saddle 3 times since I bought it... one of them was silly, I went one way and my horse at the time went the other. The other two, both off Monty, could have been very nasty. One, Monty bucked me off (canter transitions in group lessons SUCK - well, actually, when his energy is up, no matter the circumstance, he wants to buck), and the other was my bad fall.

The only thing that knowing how to shut a horse down won't help is not enough forward! There are different methods that you use for different problems, of course. Bucking and bolting are shut down using pretty similar methods - hands UP and strong but flexible position - whereas if you can feel a rear coming a one rein stop is invaluable. DO NOT turn a horse that is already off the ground in a rear. ONLY use the ORS if you feel it coming and can act in time.

Um. Sorry for the novel!

Edit; forgot something


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## asaioffreedom (Feb 23, 2011)

i agree with freedestiny and mn tigerstripes. but it all depends on the situation and the horse what will work the best. talking to your horse always helps no matter what the situation, just remember to keep your voice calm, and your butt deep in your seat n lean back as you put pressure on their mouth. most peoples biggest problem is that when they pull back on a bolting horse is they raise their hands always remember to keep them low. if your hands are to high youre just pulling thier head up not asking to slow their movement. 
i think that the true key to stoping a bolt is to stay calm, if they feel you getting nurvous it drives them forward, bc it increases their fear responce.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Sharpie (May 24, 2009)

Barry Godden said:


> There are several long threads on the forum which discuss how to handle a horse which is bolting. I suggest you do a search and look them up.


I tried, but after wading through pages of minimally relevant information, I gave up. The forum search engine isn't exactly perfect... or even very useful, tbh. If you can find any of those threads, I would be happy to read them, but I just didn't have any luck. For the rest of it, I agree, as I said, the real 'solution' is always prevention.


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## Theresa1 (Oct 8, 2011)

Fortunately, I have only had to ride out a handful of true fear bolts in the past 30-years. One was last Fall, when 4 friends and I were out for a trail ride on gaited/hotter horses. A german shepherd ran up behind us on trail, and off all 4 went, hell bent. What works for me, is it depends on how much speed has built up once I find my seat. If we are at a fast gallop, I zig zag my reins (I ride in a snaffle) until I get his attention. Then I start a modified 1 rein stop (I don't just throw their head around...in fear of flipping them). I pull and release on 1 side until slow enough to then finish off by pulling them all the way around.

I know a trainer that uses the method Kevinshorses uses. It has been very effective on the horses I have seen him do it on. Not always possible when riding with friends though. If I had one that was bolting because they learned it worked, that is exactly what I would do, making sure everyone in the group knew that's what I was doing so they didn't worry.


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## Picture Perfect (Oct 9, 2008)

Actually the best way to stop a bolt is to prevent it from happening in the first place 
Yes, you can't prevent _every_ bolt or spook but to keep the horses mind focused on its job helps out a lot! If they do bolt, circle and work them back to what you were doing in the first place. They'll realize bolting doesn't do much in the end.
Good luck


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## DuffyDuck (Sep 27, 2011)

You know what I found helpful training for horses that bolt, spin,d rop shoulders etc? Those mechanical bulls you get at shows. You learn to grip with your thighs for sure!

I was always told keep a contact, but don't pull back with your hands. The horse will just use its neck as a fifth leg and go. Sit back, and use seat and legs as you would for a halt, voice commands too. 

I've only ever had to spin a horse on a circle once when it galloped off with me and we were about to tank in to a group of elderly people on their sunday morning walk. The horse span, I kept spinning as it bolted off in the other direction and promptly landed on my bum. It also pulls the bit through the mouth... not a fan!


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

Barry Godden said:


> ...So the proper answer to your question is : don't allow yourself to be in a situation where the horse can take off, stretch its neck and snatch the reins from your hands. By all means talk to your companions but don't relax your concentration of steering and controlling the horse. And as for riding on a long loose rein rather than collected with a light contact with the horse's mouth - well you are asking for trouble - going out or coming home...


I'll have to disagree with you here. I have a hard time imagining a cowboy riding "collected with a light contact with the horse's mouth" for a 10 hour day, working cattle while maintaining his "concentration of steering and controlling the horse".

I don't think I've ever seen anyone trail ride in southern Arizona with constant contact.

I did have one experienced rider tell me that was how I need to ride Mia - to never let her go more than a half dozen steps without giving her some direction. If that is the only way to control her, I'll sell her to someone who wants to ride that way. I've had her for 4 years, and she is the horse that made me interested in riding, but if that proves to be the only way to control her, she's gone.

I'm more likely to try this:



kevinshorses said:


> Any horse I ride that tries to bolt had better stop in about 2 strides because if it takes longer than that I'm going to stop trying to stop the horse and go to spurring. The runaway doesn't last long after that and rarely happens again...


That may explain why, when my former ranch horse gelding gets really scared, he locks up. Feet apart, head up, nostrils flared...and not moving a muscle. He's only been that scared a couple of times, but I find that highly preferable to running away. He may have been taught that bolting means you immediately enter hell itself. I don't mind the idea of once a year or so encountering something that requires me to get off the horse and take a couple of minutes rubbing his neck, and then mounting and going on.

I also don't have the option of desensitizing her to everything. I cannot desensitize her to a partially buried thorn on the trail, or a rattlesnake coiling up next to her. And in a land of rock and cholla, I cannot afford to have her running mindlessly (Internet image, but looks like the area around me):


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## xxBarry Godden (Jul 17, 2009)

re bolting

Thread: "How to respond to a bolting horse"
First posted 2.10.2009 in Horse Articles
22 posts 6025 viewers

Towards the end, the summary says that there is no 'good' way to stop a bolting horse - the secret is not to 'allow' it bolt in the first place.

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## LoveTheSaddlebreds (Jul 9, 2009)

I was always told _not_ to pull back with two reins.. That a horse that's panicking would just brace against it and keep running. I've always been taught to turn them to a stop.


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## xxBarry Godden (Jul 17, 2009)

If the horse is in a full bolt and the rider has lost it, then by all means try to turn and run with the turn , but if you are in a narrow country lane with banks on either side, if trees mark the edge if the path, then the rider has no choice but to saw the bit on the horse's mouth : left, right,: left right.

The horse needs full use of its head and neck to bolt - deny the horse the full use of its neck then it has to slow. But it takes a strong pair of hands and arms to restrict a horse's neck action.

The big risk for the rider - other than being thrown off, is for the horse to lose its footing and fall and if the rider is underneath the horse, then something has to break - usually it is the rider.

As Kevin has said , if the horse gets established in bolt, then it takes a strong rider to stop it, so you might as well push the horse until it is tired - or it comes to its senses.

If the horse bolts downhill on tarmac or concrete indeed any surface which the hooves cannot dig into, then it can't stop - even if it wants to.
And remember noone can practice the counter measures to a bolt.

Out of control bolting, be it from deliberate lawlessness or thru abject fear - is dangerous to both rider and horse. The difference between a gallop and a bolt,
is that when bolting the horse is out of control. The risk to the rider is a nasty fall at speed, the risk to the horse is a torn ligament. 

Don't let a bolt develop.


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## trailhorserider (Oct 13, 2009)

I always ride with a loose rein at the walk if the horse will let me. I only ride "in contact" at the trot and canter. A neighbor always tells me I "throw my reins away." Honestly, I am sort of proud of the fact I can ride on a loose rein and my horses and I have that kind of trust. (Now sometimes my Fox Trotter is barn sour when the weather is cold and I have to keep contact at the walk coming home, but she's getting better. )

I have had horses spook /bolt when I was relaxed on a loose rein at the walk. What usually happens is that I neck rein them around in a circle. As I am holding the end of an 8 ft roping rein with one hand, neck reining is about all I am prepared for. That has never gone badly for me yet. (Knock on wood). If the horse was honestly terrified, like an attacking dog or something, and bolted straight away without a chance to turn, I would do a pull and release with the reins. As I am normally riding in a curb, that has never failed me yet (knock on wood). It seems like most of the time it is a temporary scare, not a real boogey man coming after the horse, so normally I can just spin them right back around by neck reining.

The closest I have come to a horse actually running away with me was with a 20-something year old paint gelding. We were almost home and the horses in a neighbor's pasture came galloping up and he wanted to go with them. I managed to get him stopped just by pulling and releasing but he did run a fair distance before I regained control. I didn't feel comfortable riding him in the same bit after that (a Billy Allen mouth curb). I do sometimes ride in a plain snaffle (on different horses, the Paint passed away) and I always figured if the truly bolted my best chance would be turning them into a spiral (first a wide turn and then smaller and smaller). 

I am afraid to try a one-rein stop. I can see the horse flipping over in my mind. :shock:


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## ChristineNJ (Jan 23, 2010)

WOW! Give me a bombproof horse anytime. I was half leasing a horse that really took care of me. We went on many trail rides and I was careful to keep a light control of him with the reins. Once when other horses took off I was able to keep him from running off...he was a great horse!! Out on the trail he did a few crow hops but that was all. I wouldn't want to ride a horse that has a history of bolting. I have heard that OTTB will bolt sometimes out of the clear blue sky just because they feel like it. Not for me. Cowboy....you have a good horse and it would be hard to keep tight control of him for 10 hours out in the desert or out on the range. You need a horse that you can trust and it looks like you have one.


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## diggerchick (Nov 8, 2011)

When the horse bolts, try small circles, they are a life saver


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

^ you HAVE to ease them into it or you'll pull them over! Big circles in the direction the horse is set up for (you have to be able to feel your canter leads though, if you look down to check you will be off) and slowly easing into small circles as they slow up. Circles are harder than straight lines for the horse.

Otherwise pushing them on works really well. I had a pony that would bolt if I let him get too far behind the other horses I rode with and every time he did it I would make him keep going past them another 50 metres and then trot him back towards them, he would bolt again, I would push him past them again... it fixed him up real quick!


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## MN Tigerstripes (Feb 20, 2009)

I don't know where you guys ride that you can do big circles, but where I am that isn't generally an option... Unless you want to run into the highway, down the ditch, or into a tree. Although trees work for stopping horses too! :lol:


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## Skyseternalangel (Jul 23, 2011)

kevinshorses said:


> Any horse I ride that tries to bolt had better stop in about 2 strides because if it takes longer than that I'm going to stop trying to stop the horse and go to spurring. The runaway doesn't last long after that and rarely happens again. There is possibly nothing I hate worse than a runaway.


I should have read this earlier!!!!!! Would have saved me a lot of falls


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

lol yeah the circles aren't always possible, where Monty bolted with me months ago it would have been into a 10 foot deep drain with about 3-4 feet of water in it, had we tried circling. But if he bolts with me at home there is room for circles - just not out. Out is where you have to just push them on and hope to goodness that they get over it soon!


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## MN Tigerstripes (Feb 20, 2009)

I still wouldn't push mine on, but again this is for my particular environment. You don't have very long to go until you hit a road/highway where you need to stop and both of mine love to run. There's been plenty of trail rides where we are trotting/cantering/galloping for most of the ride (at least 80%) and they're always ready to go when I ask for it. Either one would run all day if I asked them. :lol: But that's why I've come up with a solution that works for my environment... Actually come to think of it Soda didn't bolt at all this year and Lily bolted once this spring and hasn't since. Hrm.. Success? I guess we'll see next spring!


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