# horse photography: what kind of flash for indoor arenas?



## equiniphile (Aug 16, 2009)

I would contact JustDressageIt--she's an excellent equine photographer and probably has some advice for you.


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## LaVidaLoca (Feb 3, 2011)

thanks!!!


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## LaVidaLoca (Feb 3, 2011)

anyone else have any other suggestions or answers?


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## Pyrrhic (Dec 11, 2011)

You didn't say what kind of camera you're using, but before you go for a flash try and work with the camera. Raise your ISO setting, set your aperture to the widest setting and use a lens with a wide maximum aperture and also maybe use a continuous shooting mode. If you've done all of these are still not happy then look at introducing a flash.


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## LaVidaLoca (Feb 3, 2011)

Pyrrhic said:


> You didn't say what kind of camera you're using, but before you go for a flash try and work with the camera. Raise your ISO setting, set your aperture to the widest setting and use a lens with a wide maximum aperture and also maybe use a continuous shooting mode. If you've done all of these are still not happy then look at introducing a flash.


 
i actually did say what kind of camera i am using. its a nikon specifically a d60. and ive stated i've been using no flash and have been playing with my iso and aperature (my pictures are too dark and grainy=iso being high). hence the reason, i need a flash because i am not getting enough light in my camera to capture a bright enough picture. 

again, anyone out there that can help me with what kind of flash to use?
preferably anyone that takes pictures of horses indoors with them moving and going over jumps?


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## LaVidaLoca (Feb 3, 2011)

i actually JUST got a newer camera a nikon D5100... any suggestions?


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## Evansk (Dec 22, 2011)

go to Learn to Take Photos Online - Digital Photography Courses

they offer great courses online to teach you how to take equine photos...


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## countercanter (May 18, 2011)

If you do end up purchasing an external flash, I would also invest in a flash diffuser. portrait photographers use them to get softer pictures and reduce harsh shadows and over exposed subjects. One local photographer where I live uses one because it also reduces the, "bang" I guess, of the flash. Other photographers I know have what kind of look like umbrella flash reflectors set up around the arena that are triggered to go off when they take a picture so they can be sure to get enough light when and where they need it.


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## Pyrrhic (Dec 11, 2011)

LaVidaLoca said:


> i actually did say what kind of camera i am using. its a nikon specifically a d60. and ive stated i've been using no flash and have been playing with my iso and aperature (my pictures are too dark and grainy=iso being high). hence the reason, i need a flash because i am not getting enough light in my camera to capture a bright enough picture.
> 
> again, anyone out there that can help me with what kind of flash to use?
> preferably anyone that takes pictures of horses indoors with them moving and going over jumps?


Where on earth did you say you were using a Nikon D60? You said a Nikon, the range is huge, hence why I asked. I'm sorry I wasted my time replying to your thread with some suggestions for you to try.


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## HalfPass (Jun 12, 2009)

Hi there
It is and can be difficult to take take indoor jumping pictures. I try not to have to do it at local low level shows do to the fact most of these horses are not in any way used to any type of flash. 
Beyond the flash part---your camera must have the capability to have an iso stting of 3200 or higher. Without this capability the likelihood of blurr is increased dramatically.
What are the settings you have the camera set on while taking a photo in outside light while the horse is jumping? 
What are your camera setting while indoors? 
Outside....things also depend on where the sun is what the backdrop looks like the type of day (cloudy sunny both etc etc)
Inside things can be complicated by different angles of light coming in. Such as, natural light sources as well as artificial light.
What type of lens are you using? A zoom lens? If so what type of zoom.

I am not familiar with the D 5100 but I think.....it may have the capacity to for ISO stting of 3200 or greater. The older model D60 I do not believe can do this. I had 2 D70's and they in no way compared to the capabilities of a the D90

I have learned over the years there are so many factors that come into play when photographing horses doing different things.

The best thing I can suggest is to practice and read your manual.
If you are a new beginer to photographing horses jumping I suggest to master doing it outside first and become familiar with the camera and settings and lighting etc!. 
Do you have some sample photos of both indoor jumping shots and outdoor jumping shots? Can you post them?

Please look at my website if you want to see my work

www.cdallas.zenfolio.com

PM me or chat here with me more if you like. I will help as much as I can


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## upnover (Jan 17, 2008)

HalfPass said:


> Hi there
> It is and can be difficult to take take indoor jumping pictures. I try not to have to do it at local low level shows do to the fact most of these horses are not in any way used to any type of flash.
> Beyond the flash part---your camera must have the capability to have an iso stting of 3200 or higher. Without this capability the likelihood of blurr is increased dramatically.
> What are the settings you have the camera set on while taking a photo in outside light while the horse is jumping?
> ...



This is really fabulous information.

Particularly about the lens. What are you using? They aren't all made to do what you want to do. Low light, distance, and high action are 3 difficult things to get together unless you have a pretty good lens, even with a high ISO. I used to have a d70 and I borrowed someone's 70-200 and got some pretty spectacular indoor jumping shots. However, this is a $2000 lens...  I took some decent ones with my 70-300 but this lens does great for distance, fine for high action, but just doesn't do low light that well. It takes a lot of fiddling to get right. The lens I started with was a kit lense, 18-22 or something. It was ok but I think you'd get the same result with a point and shoot.


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## Spider1 (Jan 16, 2012)

*Arena Photo Work*

Having started at the same point about 5 years ago that you appear to be at now, I offer the following information:
My Events: Barrel Racing (NBHA level)
My Gear: After trying a number of options to get the best ambient lighting photos - 
(Sorry – A Canon user): Camera – 5D and 1D MarkIV
 Lenses – I now only use L – glass; expensive but you can tell the difference
o Best Results when close to subject – 85 mm f1.2
o Best Results when farther away – 200 mm f2.0 
o Mid Range with decent results – 135 mm f2.0
o (Note – I have a 24 – 70 mm f2.8 but have found it is not fast enough for most indoor arenas)
o *Best Advice: Try renting before buying – several sites available, I have used LensGiant.com with success but there are others; experiment until you find what you want – they rent Nikon was well as flash units.*
Camera Settings
o Use Tv (shutter priority) or Manual to lock shutter speed at 400 or higher (jumping events you may be able to use a slightly lower shutter speed.)
o ISO – As high as necessary to get workable exposure (most times this is at or above 800)
o Aperture – if in Manual, adjust as necessary to fit with ISO and Manual Shutter Speed setting (if in manual you can force a smaller aperture (higher f number) by adjusting your ISO to a higher level yet. (Note – some grain is better than a dark or blurry photo; software like LR3 or LR4 Beta if you want to try free right now has excellent noise reduction.)
Other suggestions
o Get there early and take test shots and try to fine tune settings, including white balance (check auto vs other to get as accurate as possible – I use expo disc often)
o Pick location that gives the best lighting for the subject area you are shooting (often indoor arenas have large doors open to the outside which lets in light – use this light if possible to you back to light up your subject
o Be mindful of the aperture such that you keep your subject in focus (wide aperture will give you shallow depth of field –ex: horse’s nose could be in focus but tail not – in this case where photo setting allows, try to get perpendicular to subject.
This is an extremely tough setting for ambient light photos; I have met many including event pro- photographers that struggle unless using strobes; strobes give you one specific photo setting (ex – second barrel – boring - all the same). Most flash units aren’t strong enough; strobes generally allowed to event photographers only.


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