# 'Working With OTTB's Tips, Knowledge and Advice



## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

OTTB's. Gotta love them. SO, because I love them so much, I'm starting a training thread. I will post numerous exercises and try to keep it updated. So, I'll start with knowledge.

For those who are unfamiliar with Off The Track Thoroughbreds, they might seem frightening, very unpredictable, dangerous or even scary. I can assure you that at one point in their life (freshly off the track for instance) they can seem like each one of these things. However, their athletic potential and significantly lower price makes them very appealing for those on a lower budget, or looking to jump, and not looking to spend mid-to upper 5 figures. Their mind has only been conditioned for onething- RUN. They have one speed. RUN. They have been trained to RUN. So, when you get on them, it's no surprise that they want to run away with you. Some don't and some are very mellow, while others just need more mind-conditioning. Some of the top competition horses in the world are OTTB's. So, I will share my personal experience and what I've learned to try to help those around here looking for a horse!

Advice. Here are some key points and necessities for those who are looking to go forward and buy one, or train. 

PRE TRAINING CHECK LIST:

1. You will need CONSISTANT- everyday time. The better consistency, the better your horse will turn out
2. Small, patient sessions will work the best. The slower you start, the better your horse's mind will progress. Everything you do in teaching a horse starts small with a solid foundation, and this will start conditioning your horses mind for that. 
3. Patience. There should be no time constraint, time limit, or show season that you're planning to hit. That will be setting yourself up for failure and lead to stress and disappointment. 

GETTING STARTED; BEFORE YOU RIDE;

1. GET A 100% CLEAN AND SOUND VET CHECK! You cannot always just take the word of a trainer on the track. Get either very recent records, or call a vet yourself. Before you start ANY work, find any potential, or current problems. 
2. Give your horse ample time to get relaxed at their new situation. However long, is the right time. There is no correct amount of time. You should be able to walk your horse around the farm on a lead (without a shank) and not have him/her spook at anything. They should be in the ring occasionally, although not doing any longing or work. This is a good time to work on in hand ground work. Teach a little bit of respect and giving you space when on foot. They should respond to how you move, and when you move. Make sure that even at that small stage; you reward a lot to good behavior. Also, take this time to teach verbal cues. ‘Walk’, Trot, Canter, Whoa, Easy’ are good ones to work with. They should respond well to each one of those cues before moving on.
3. After ATLEAST 2 weeks (which is considered LIGHTNING fast for most), you can start longing if you feel your horse is ready. Start with teaching the correct way to lunge, and for the first few sessions, just work on walk. Don’t rush a quicker, more unmanageable pace. Just let them relax and gain some confidence in the smaller steps. Teach them how to walk out, and then halt so you can approach them and change direction. As the sessions become better, and your horse is showing no hesitation to listening to you, move on to a trot. Your horse might pick up a canter, or faster right away, but just talk to them and say ‘easy’ and ‘whoa’. After they slowly begin to slow their trot, allow them reward and after a couple minutes, allow them to walk and cool a little bit. Slowly increase amount of trot work. Incorperate lots of walk to trot and trot to walk transitions and make sure their concise. After trot is mastered, add the canter. It is very important to remember that you only allow your horse to canter on the correct lead. If they pick up the wrong one, bring them back to a slow, controlled trot before asking again. After canter is mastered, _work a few more weeks on lunging_. At this point, add some ground poles or VERY small cross rails to hop over.(I would only suggest X rails if you’re looking to jump/game/event, or if you’re experienced with working with green horses, as they can easily become unfocused or difficult to handle.) Let your horse get used to going over ground poles at a trot, walk or canter. Make sure you don’t stop until they aren’t over- jumping, rather just calmly taking them. During those few weeks, also incorporate A LOT of ground manners and exposure to trails, trailers, puddles, water, and other potentially scary things. The best time is before a workout, or during. I wouldn’t suggest at the end, because if you’re horse doesn’t take it well, then you’re ending on a bad note.
RIDING:
The first ride is difficult. You will want to VERY slowly and calmly WALK only. Talk to your horse. After mounting, say the words “Walk on”, while applying the slightest leg pressure. Your horse might try to go faster, but just use the vocal commands you’ve been working on. Make sure they stand absolutely still while you mount *have a friend if you need, so you don’t support a bad habit of jumping on while your horse takes off. That will only get them into jockey-mode*. Walk very slowly for a minimum of 30 minutes. Do figures, cross the diagonal, circles etc. Expose your horse to taking your feet out of the stirrups, with a friend leading you. Try those things to familiarize your horse with what it’s like to have a rider on their back. Again, do this for a few days before asking for a trot.
Trotting is, in my opinion, both the most important, and one of the hardest to master undersaddle. I ride 15 year old horses that have problems with their trot still. The key is you picking the pace, and sticking to it, until your horse cooperates. When you first use the leg aid, they might rush into a faster gait, but again, use your vocals. Master a very slow controlled trot before slowly introducing a variety of paces. If you get out of control, walk. Slow down and start again. 
Canter can also be added gradually. The only thing that I would stress is that they NEVER are allowed to rush the canter. Start your very first time on a circle and only allow them to canter on the correct lead. If you struggle with that, have someone on the ground to help you. As soon as you can, start some walk to canter transitions and all kinds of walk to trot, trot to halt, canter to halt etc. 

*EXERCISES ARE TO BE POSTED BY ME IN THE NEXT FEW DAYS AS I TYPE THEM OUT ON A WORD DOCUMENT AND EDIT*


VERY IMPORTANT KEYS:
*All longing is to be done with tack on. Bridle and saddle. Make sure to tie up stirrups and reins so they don’t bother the horse
*Don’t punish a horse for being frisky on the lunge
*All of this can be done in a snaffle, or a more sever bit if needed. I do not believe that you need any type of bike-chain, razor , or any bit like that ever. If you feel you must use a bit such as the gag, think about going back to the basics a little more.
*I wouldn’t suggest any training equipment other than maybe a lunge whip (that never ever touches the horse). Side reins can be added after a few weeks (3+) of consistent trot work and introduce very gradually and ONLY ONLY during trotting. 
*Always work the same amount of time in each direction so your horse is comfortable going both, as well as you. Remember, they only run one way on the track. 
*If there’s ever any scary event for your horse, or something spooks them violently while trying to move up a step, move back down again and go slower up.
*Always end on a good note. Even if that means walk your horse over a ground pole and making it seem like a big deal.
*Remember, anger, impatience or any other bad emotion will not make your horse cooperate. It takes kindness patience and forgivingness, while maintaining your stern, and firm sessions.

OTHER HELPFUL LINKS
http://www.bitsandbytesfarm.com/training_notes.htm
http://lorienstable.com/articles/owning/900-OTTB/
http://www.offtrackthoroughbredhelp.com/


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Please note I also ALWAYS incourage a training program written out on paper to be kept in the barn, or a grooming box with you. Set small goals in the beginnning of each month and master them, checking off as you go. You can also have a trainer just take a glance at what you're thinking of as well!


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## scrapinpics (Nov 12, 2010)

Thanks for the info. We have a 5 y/o OTTB who had been off over a year now. He has been worked prior to our purchase this past Aug. Things were going so well with him and my daughter until yesterday. He spooked at something in the arena and took off running as fast as he could. My daughter was able to hold on and ride him pretty well but was unable to stop him. She lost her stirrup and after he turned the corner about the 12th time around the arena, she lost her balance and fell off. She was not seriously hurt, but her confidence has been shaken and she is now afraid he will do it again. It is very scary to see your daughter whipping around the arena on a locomotive out of control. I will be reading your posts with great interest. Thanks again.


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Thank you and I hope she's able to build it back up. I can tell you that it's very scary, but I will be getting some very good exercises back up. If you'd like , you can show her this and maybe some of the exercises will help her and him build together  Thanks!


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## xxJustJumpItxx (May 30, 2009)

Thank you for these! I'm on the verge of selling my 5-year old OTTB, but I won't be making a decision for a couple of months so I'll try these exercises to see if things get better.

I really rushed her training when I first got her. Now riding her makes me nervous because she's so reactive and always SO fast. Should I go back to the very beginning and just lunge her until she's quiet?


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Well Just Jump it, it's really up to you... I'm posting some exercises right now!


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

EXERCISE 1: 
Transitions A
Use this picture to help explain the exercise










So, transitions are a great way to get your horse to listen and focus in on you. I find that this exercise helps with slowing down even the fastest of TB's. 
First, start this on a circle in half of the ring.(In the middle. Or a circle at B and E) Start at a walk, forward and have your horse as much on contact as possible. Next, as you pass B, (going either direction. I suggest doing in your stronger direction first for you to be most comfortable), pick up a trot. When you come to the letter E, halt. Now, do not start slowing down before... Just approach and when your shoulder becomes next to E, halt. Sit deep and bring your hands toward you. In this exercise, some horses will try to put their nose up and resist you so bring your hands down towards your hips, being careful not to use too much rein. Next, from the halt, move into a trot. Passing B, halt. Repeat this until your horse slows down and starts waiting for you. If your horse starts anticipating, mix up where you stop. Try at the letter I or L . As you get comfortable, do in both directions, and you can add the canter in. Canter right from a walk and work on those transitions. Generally, your horse will give you a better transition anyway, from a walk. And after halfway around the circle, halt. Your horse will slowly start to slow down and wait for you. When you're confident, try around the whole ring. Pick up at H, and stop at F. Then walk to M, or K and Pick up, stopping at the opposite. (No specific letters, just at least pass 2 or 3 when using the whole ring. 
REMEMBER:
*A key to working with these independent OTTBS is that you don't want to use to much hand. They're naturally very sensitive to your seat and you can slow them up quite a bit using this
* This exercise might require a firm hand in the beginning. Just make sure that even if you must use a fairly strong hand that you're horse halts immediately. The more precise your horse is, the better it will work and more effective it will be! Good Luck


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Exercise 2:
Transitions B

So, start doing this exercise on a circle on a to mix it up. Or on C. (Make the size of half of the ring so you're Passing through X. The larger circle will make the exercise better.
So,start at a trot, a working trot and you can sit, or post. -Clear your throat now- Start saying 1- 2- 3- 4 (yes outloud. It's embarrassing, but all good trainers talk out loud and nobody should ever say something rude for counting out loud). After 4, come down to a walk, and count; 1- 2- 3- 4. After four, pick up a working trot, and count again. Continue this and really focus on making your cues precise and accurate both picking up, and slowing down. You can use this for every transition( walk four, then pick up canter for four, then walk four, then trot four, then halt four then canter four etc) . Make it fun. Switch up the counting too. Try 8 seconds. Then 5. Then 7... Personalize it to your liking!
REMEMBER:
Consistancy is key. We all know that we aren't perfect riders, so work on getting your cues into a regular pattern and consistant. Stick withit, and be precise. If you say you're going to stop at A, don't settle for 3 feet past A. Don't start counting to four, then change to 8 cause it's too hard and you just don't feel like working at it. I've seen it been done and done this using two. It's not suggested for OTTB's right away but can be done. Please enjoy!
Good luck!


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Exercise 3:
Stretching Physically, Not Mentally

So, this exercise is bonding, stretching etc. Kind of a less demanding one after the last two... So, a good rider lets their horse stretch out on a long rein before a ride, and in a ring, this part is commonly rushed, because I admit, it's BORING. And, naturally, you're excited for what's to come. Now, make sure before you do this, that you're in a closed in ring, field etc, so your horse does'nt runaway with you... 
So, here are the exercises while your horse is on a loose rein
1. Shoulder/Arm Circles: Holding the reins in one hand, do arm circles with the other. Try to really stretch your shoulder, bring your arm back and around. Swap rein hands, and repeat with other arm.
2. Leg Pull Ups: Remove your feet, or just one foot from the stirrup. Now bend your knee so that your ankle comes up towards your butt. Drop your arm straight down and hold firmly onto your ankle. Pull up until you feel the stretch. Repeat with other leg.
3. B-A-C-K: Slowly lean far back until your head touches your horses hind quarters, stay for a second, then come back up to an upright position. (Or go as far as you feel comfortable). Repeat four or five times. 
4. Toe Touches: Put your right hand straight up in the air above your shoulder. Now , FIRMLY KEEPING YOUR FANNY PLANTED IN THE SADDLE, reach straight down and touch your right toe. Hold three seconds and bring back straight up in the air. Now, go down and touch your left toe.Bring back up. That's one rep. Do 5 more. Then , switch hands. 
5. Reaches: Keeping your fanny firmly in the saddle, reach forward with one, or both hands, to touch your horse's ears. Hold for a few seconds then switch hands if needed, or just repeat a few times. 
REMEMBER:
Keep your butt firmly in the saddle. If at some pointyou feel unbalanced, you're doing it wrong. 


SO, I'M GETTING A NEW HORSE TOMORROW! WILL BE POSTING TUTORIALS ON ALL OF THE EXERCISES TO HELP YOU! So excited! Will keep you posted. 
GOOD LUCK!


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## mom2pride (May 5, 2009)

Groundwork, groundwork, groundwork...not just with OTTBs but any and every horse is fundamental. 

When you think about it, a TB has not been taught to use the "thinking" side of his brain...which is why he is SO quick to react, as well as run...it's not so much that the running itself has been so trained into him, it's just that he has not been taught how to use the thinking side of his brain, so the most "logical" thing for him to do in any situation, in his mind, is to run away. 

This is why ground work is so crucial to a horse like that. He needs to learn respect, as well as how to think through things rather than react to them. I tend to like working with reactive type horses, and it's amazing how quickly you can transform a "looky, snorty, run-away" type horse with just consistent and firm groundwork; and doing exercises that make him use his body right from the start...get him to yield his hips and shoulders, make him move fowards, backwards, left and right...ie...make him THINK-vs-reacting. And when he is snorty and just plain goofy over something dorky like maybe a bag on a fence, just get his feet to move...the quicker you can "shift" the mind from the object back to yourself, the quicker he is going to learn to start thinking through situations. And don't shift from "I want you to look at it" to "I want you to move your feet'...just move his feet...making a horse look at something he is already 'scared of' only gives him leverage for the spook, and he can easily pull you over, or run you over. Get his mind OFF the object and back on you; eventually you will have gone past the object several times, and he will just be focused on you, even though you know he's seeing the object as well. I think too often people find it easy to "pamper" a horse who is so scared...that doesn't help the horse, and normally only tells the horse that you are insecure as well...you have to prove that you are a leader worth following, especially with a horse who is very reactive. 

I would not even consider getting on a reactive horse (OTTB, or other) until he could do everything I asked from the ground without hesitation, both with and without distractions. I would have done a TON of desensitization to various objects and the horse has to have a firm grasp on lateral flexion, as that is going to be my emergency 'brake'. Especially with a TB, you don't want to try to stop him by simply pulling back...as he will likely run right through it. However, if you can get him to bend his head and neck you will be able to get him to slow down and eventually stop...like I said, horse HAS to know how to bend with little pressure from the rein before I will get on.


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## VintageMatch (Jul 23, 2009)

Do you have anything for mounting? My ottb has been off the track for 3 yrs roughly and she's a great riding horse but she's really bad to mount. I was at a clinic and she threw me twice, and it wasn't very pretty. I've lost a lot of confidence in her. I bred her and I'm riding my instructors horses in the meantime to gain confidence, but is there anything I can do to teach her how to stand for mounting and to biuld my confidence??


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## AlexS (Aug 9, 2010)

You are posting some very valuable info, but not every OTTB is the same, I have had a bunch now. My current is more like a donkey than a racehorse. He needs leg in everything. Although I have not let him gallop yet. 


Vintage, have you tried putting him into a corner when you mount? It helps that if he has several sides that he cannot move out of that he will not move, it takes time though, as they are doing what they think is right by moving.


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Vintage match , could you maybe describe to me what happens? She bucks when you mount? Or does she move away?


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## VintageMatch (Jul 23, 2009)

the last time i tried to mount she was moving around a lot so someone had to hold her, and as i was getting on she reared and i was stuck, hanging over the saddle, then she reared again and sat down so off I came, the the second time, I was actually on but I couldn't get my other stirrup, as she was rearing up, and down, she did it a bunch of times before going straight up and i mean straight everyone there thought she was going over, and then i came off. I haven't been on her since, so I'm not sure if she'd rear now, or if she'd just move around.


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Sounds like there's a serious problem. You might want to rule out medical. If she's in a lot of discomfort... Once you're securly on, is she okay??


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## VintageMatch (Jul 23, 2009)

Oh yes, she's the absolute best to ride, her ears actually go floppy, because she's so relaxed.


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## RedTree (Jan 20, 2010)

Ak1- I don't know if I read it in here but I can't seem to find it but did you say do transitions from walk to canter?? and that will help

I always though that was a higher up thing, but if its not I would love to teach my tb it.
How would you go about teaching it??


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## mom2pride (May 5, 2009)

Well considering TBs are normally mounted while they are in motion...it makes sense that she doesn't understand that want her to be still; she's just been taught to be moving while the rider mounts, or shall I say that if they move, they just hoist the jockey up there anyway. 

What you need to do is create a circumtance in which "stand still' is clear for her. The way I train or retrain a horse to stand at the mounting block is to do 1 of 2 different exercises to teach him that you want him to be still while you mount. Either way is effective, and retrains the mind of the horse to not anticipate the mounting, so he learns to stand still. 

1. Lead horse up to block, lining her up to it like as if you are going to mount, ask her to stop, and stand there for a few seconds, then walk away with her, maybe do a bit of backing, or hip yielding, so she isn't "just" walking around on the lead. Keep doing this over and over, progressively adding more time to your 'expectation' of her to stand still. Once she will walk up to the block and stand there with you in a normal leading position, then start asking her to stop, then step up onto the mounting block, and the retreat once more...eventually you will get to a point where you will get on the mounting block, fuss with the saddle, pat her all over her body (while on block), and step off and walk away again. Once she has that down, then get on block, put a foot in stirrup, and retreat...and so on and so forth, until she stands there for you to get on, quietly and calmly. This may take one lesson, or several. I would most certainly work on this AFTER she has had some groundwork to get her mind 'working'; she also won't have all that extra energy, that she would have if you saddled and went straight to mounting practice. 

2. This method I have found to be the quicker one, as horses are naturally 'lazy' and will prefer to stand than have to work. Make sure she knows how to send and lunge well, though, as that will be the working techniques you will mainly use, although I will incorporate hip and shoulder yielding, backing, etc, as well. Set mounting block roughly 5-6 ft away from a fence, and lead her up to the block (she will be "sandwiched" between you and fence.)...when you get her there, stand next to the block, and start sending her back and forth between you and mounting block. After several repetitions of sending, bring her to a halt next to the block, just as you would if you were to lead her up to it to mount. She may be crooked the first bunch of times, but that's okay...you are just teaching her "where" to stop and stand. Let her rest there for a few moments, and retreat away from the block all together; Do some lunging away from the block, you and also work on yielding exercises as well, but mainly you want her feet to be moving really well. When you have worked her a bit, bring her back to the block, and this time stand on it while you send her back and forth, and once again after several repetitions, bring her to a halt next to the block. Let her rest there while you pat her neck, and all over her body on that side. After a little rest, retreat, and resume more lunging and yielding. Return to block and do what you did before, standing on the block, and sending her, and bringing her to a halt next to block; rub all over, let her rest, retreat. Once she is solid on that, then start putting a foot up to the stirrup, retreat, repeat, and so on...until you can mount and dismount without her moving about. Again, may take one session or several.


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Yes. Redtree, the transitions can be done from canter


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## VintageMatch (Jul 23, 2009)

Alright thanks! I'll try that, she wasn't so bad at first but now..... I bred her and she's been really good since, so I might take her out and try that.


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## RedTree (Jan 20, 2010)

Ak1 said:


> Yes. Redtree, the transitions can be done from canter


how would you go about teaching the transition from walk to canter??


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## xxJustJumpItxx (May 30, 2009)

Do you have any tips for getting a OTTB to accept bit contact? My mare will stop okay and doesn't run through the bit anymore, but she doesn't like contact and she doesn't reach to the contact. When I try to ride her with contact, she holds her head higher and really grinds her teeth on the bit. Could it be her teeth? I think she got them checked before I got her, but I could be wrong.


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## RedTree (Jan 20, 2010)

xxJustJumpItxx said:


> Do you have any tips for getting a OTTB to accept bit contact? My mare will stop okay and doesn't run through the bit anymore, but she doesn't like contact and she doesn't reach to the contact. When I try to ride her with contact, she holds her head higher and really grinds her teeth on the bit. Could it be her teeth? I think she got them checked before I got her, but I could be wrong.


 
I had the same problem with my tb, thy weren't taught to accecpt contact or anything so they know nothing about it.
I was told to do lots of circles, serpentines to get him to use his bum then his head will come down and he will search for contact.
I was like yer what ever that wont work, but amazinly it has  his head has gone lower and he is reaching for the contact, unfortunatley when he started that he got bashed up the next day so I haven't ridden him since, hopefully he will do it next time haha.
It is a slow process though


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Just jump it, circles will work miracles for just about any horse. In order to get your horse to accept bit contact, then just start on a circle. (Preferably a comfortable size of half of the ring. Take a sitting trot, and ask for a little bend (gently wiggle each wrist in the motion that you crack a lunge whip with). Use your leg and drive your horse into the bend (not faster, but just move him steadily forward). Make sure you still maintain the bend of the circle, but this will engage his hind. Sit back and tall and straight, play with your hands, and push him forward. When he's conqured that, you can try around the whole ring, figures, and even try posting( which generally is a little harder to maintain). Hope this helps! Good luck Redtree!
Brenna


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Walk-Canter can be a difficult transition. I would suggest that your horse has mastered a trot to canter and it's a sharp, concise signal that you're giving. (a.k.a the horse has NO steps of "rushing" inbetween the two gaits.) If you're horse is good with that, then just bring him/her to a walk and leg him stretch out a few strides. Next, collect him up a little bit, and give your canter cues( I recommend that when asking for a canter from a walk, that you use the outside leg and press it on for a few seconds. Don't throw your hands forward and you can -ONLY FOR THE FIRST FEW TIMES- say the word "canter". The first few maybe a little chopy, but when your horse does it well, reward himand canter around a few times then allow him/her to stop. If your horse's transition feels too slopy, just try to ride it out and make him canter even if there are some running steps. After they pick up, canter a small distance then stop and try again. Eventaully your horse will get it. Make sure the reward is to canter a few times around then stop. If you're having trouble with walk to canter, try a halt to canter. Sometimes your horse will understand more. Thanks! Hope this helps!
Good luck
Brenna


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## MIEventer (Feb 15, 2009)

A Walk to Canter transition should only be done when the horse* *REGARDLESS OF BREED** is properly conditioned and *BALANCED*. When the rider and horse have accomplished the fundamentals of the *Training Scale* and *when the horse is on his hind end, and not on his forehand *- can the transition be accomplished.

YOU - as the rider MUST be correct with your position in your tack, balanced, using your SEAT and LEGS and CORE with a tall upper body, and BALANCED over their horses center of gravity, knowing how to use their body properly to ask for the transition clearly. If you are not correct with your body and your aids, you are not helping at all.

*Dressage, Dressage, Dressage, Dressage!*


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## MIEventer (Feb 15, 2009)

> Do you have any tips for getting a OTTB to accept bit contact? My mare will stop okay and doesn't run through the bit anymore, but she doesn't like contact and she doesn't reach to the contact. When I try to ride her with contact, she holds her head higher and really grinds her teeth on the bit. Could it be her teeth? I think she got them checked before I got her, but I could be wrong.


JustJumpIt - this issue has nothing to do with whether your horse is a TB or not....a horse is a horse...and the issues you are mentioning, could be saddle fit, or something you are doing while in the tack.

When a head goes up, the back has to drop. When the head goes up and the back drops, your horse is on his forehand - so you aren't going to accomplish anything when this is happening.

First, decipher whether you have a properly fitted saddle. Your horse could be dropping his back and stiffening up because it hurts - so get that checked out first. Then get his back checked out. He could be out, hurting - something going on to cause his back to hollow out. 

Your seat could also be too heavy or too loud. Stop and ask yourself "What is it that I am doing, or not doing, that is causing the outcome I am getting in this situation" what is missing?

Go back to the Training Scale! Seat into Legs into Hands to Soften! 

Can you get Dressage Lessons? There are holes here - gaping loud and clear saying "HELLO!" 

Rhythm
Relaxation
Contact
Impulsion
Straitness
Collection

You must fill in the holes to accomplish what you are trying at this point.

Seat into Legs into Hands to Soften. Inside leg into outside rein. You must get the rhythm and the impulsion first, asking the back to round up into your seat *if he can...might not because of pain* getting the horse onto their hind end and tracking up/engaging forward, riding inside leg into outside rein - getting the horse to move correctly first, using himself correctly first, then the head will come.


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

MI, you're right... a horse is a horse but the thread was mainly started for OTTBs because they tend to have similar habits. Thanks for the advice though, I love those outstanding dressage words!


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## MIEventer (Feb 15, 2009)

Hmmm, the question on how to get a walk-canter transition and how to accept bit contact - has NOTHING to do with TB's. How to obtain contact, is dressage. And how to get nice upward transitions, is dressage based...not breed based. 

The questions asked, have answers that have NOTHING to do with whether the horse is a TB or a QH......educated riding, is educated riding.


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Yes MI that's where they're based, not on breed at all, but this was just started for people owning their own OTTB to come and post their problems. And, what I was saying is that OTTB's are not trained to accept contact, so that's the way I was approaching it


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## equestrian (Oct 12, 2010)

Any tips on balancing at the canter? I don't have a saddle that fits Bourbon yet so I haven't cantered him under saddle yet. 

When I am lunging him in the round pen though and I ask for the canter, it seems that his hind end is completely disengaged. I've been doing lots of transitions (trot, canter, trot, walk, trot canter, trot, etc.) and it seems to be helping him, but I wonder if there is anything else I can do? He was disengaged about 75% of the time, but now it's down to about 25%.

I am going to have a chiro out to give him an adjustment, but is there anything else I can do?


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Yes! I would have a chiro, and a vet if you can. To just rule out any health concerns... For balance I would recommend transitions like you're doing, and just overall conditioning (for conditioning, uphill riding is a really good way. Lots of trot work; shaps, circles , and figures)... That will help develop your horse's muscle structure and build them up. Generally the unbalance is caused by a horse not being at peak condition, however it could again be a health issue. Hope this helps! Also, try to find a saddle that fits well before this work and before you get too concerned. The saddle that doesn't fit may just be causing a soreness.
Brenna


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## equestrian (Oct 12, 2010)

Ak1 said:


> Yes! I would have a chiro, and a vet if you can. To just rule out any health concerns... For balance I would recommend transitions like you're doing, and just overall conditioning (for conditioning, uphill riding is a really good way. Lots of trot work; shaps, circles , and figures)... That will help develop your horse's muscle structure and build them up. Generally the unbalance is caused by a horse not being at peak condition, however it could again be a health issue. Hope this helps! Also, try to find a saddle that fits well before this work and before you get too concerned. The saddle that doesn't fit may just be causing a soreness.
> Brenna



I don't have an ill fitting saddle - I only ride him bareback at a walk and trot. I am waiting until I find a well fitting saddle before really working him at the canter while on his back. I'm just not comfortable cantering him bareback when he is so unbalanced.

I wish we had some hills to work on, but I live in Florida and it's incredibly flat. I don't even know of anywhere I could trailer him that has hills. :-(


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Okay.. So, I would see what is going on health wise... How long have you had him and where did you get him?\


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## sarahver (Apr 9, 2010)

Ak1 you have gone to a lot of trouble with this thread and there are some great excercises on it for all horses, not just OTTB's.

I hope you don't mind if I add a comment for Equestrian?

Eq: If your horse is an OTTB that you have recently purchased (I am assuming he is an OTTB and also that he is new to you since you are waiting for a saddle) He is going to have trouble cantering in a round pen as a simple result of geometry - even a large round pen is a very small circle for an OTTB to manage before they have received the training for it. It will just take time, training and lots of flexion excercises before he will be able to do it comfortably.

Having a chiro out is a great start but it won't give you clear results straight away, you need to build up new muscles and muscle memory for him to be able to manage circle work. Chiro work + suppleness + time + patience will get you there in the end!


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Thanks. Yes I started in for OTTBS, but it's become like all horses. So, I'm going to restart it for all horses


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## Rachel1786 (Nov 14, 2010)

This thread has been very helpful to me, i have a 13year old OTTB mare who i got from the kill pen, i believe someone has done some training with her because she is very soft and collected, but her past is mostly a mystery


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## mkunk1 (Nov 22, 2010)

I'm currently riding a OTTB mare who does not stop unless you take your leg completely off of her. Example: We walk for a bit to warm up (she's fine then), then start trotting, then when I want to walk, I can get her down to a walk shortly, but she just wants to keep trotting unless I take my leg COMPLETELY of off her, as in lift my legs off her side. Is there anyway I can work on that?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## BWolters (Oct 14, 2010)

Mine is scared to death of water... he will let me lead him across water etc, but spins away from it when im on him. I dont want to beat him with the crop but have tried it once or twice with little effect! Any advice for once it gets warmer (so I dont mind getting wet)


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## CessBee (Dec 6, 2008)

Ok havnt read the whole thing, but its great stuff that I have read.
I just want to add a few tips that I have discovered working with TBs, both as race horses and ones comming off the track.

Some TBs know how to yeild to steady constant contact, if they were ridden sympathetically and forward (some trainers do do that) and will soften to the bit if you keep a nice gentle steady contact. All the TBs I have ridden trackwork style have been ridden with bridged reins and most will soften to the contact and work "into the bit" so to speak but its more in frame. The trainers I have worked with have encouraged their horses to be as soft in the mouth as possible. 
Though the racing drive does come into play in a race and the excitement of going full tack at a gallop and the atmosphere and so many other horses most often gets them going as they are sensitive creatures (the majority, my TB mare is an exception, she couldnt care less if another horse barrelled full tack past her and is generally quite lazy to ride). 

As they are generally quite flighty and senstive animals the first response as a human is to sneak around them and do as little as possible to spook them, this will have the oposite effect in the long run, they will become more and more spooky the more you sneak around them and try do things really really quietly. What you want to do is just be relaxed and just do things as usual, if you drop something just pick it up and ignore the flighty horse that is now dancing and prancing at its tie up.

TBs are used to routine. Most, if not all, were stabled before being fired from the track so they are used to having the same thing happen at the same time each day. This was ingrained scince they were very very young, and is often all they know, so not having a solid routine is incredibly confusing for a TB, most animals in fact.

Just my two cents and a bit of what Ive learnt working with the awesome breed that is the thoroughbred.


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

mkunk, Yes. You probably need to get your horse used to having a steady, gentle leg on him/her. Use the transitions that I've posted... That might help. LOTS of halfhalts... and you could even do some collections and extensions.. . Work on altering the paces of each gait that he has,(more towards the slower side). How slow can you make him trot? Canter? Hope that helps!

BWolters... So, before you conquer water in saddle, it will have to be done by hand. How is he/she to bathe? The only thing that I have to say about the crop, is that he's already afraid of going through the water, so try not to make him afraid of _not_ going through the water. I would basically start really simple. Let him inspect it, smell it and move around it a little bit. Allow him to walk near and even through it if he wants, and maybe even walk through it, enticing him to follow with a lead. I guess you'd just have to do that for a little while and once he's walking through it with out becoming flighty, then you can then push him through while under saddle.


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## BWolters (Oct 14, 2010)

He loves baths, like I said I hardly used the crop. When getting a bath he will play with the hose! Just a big baby when I first got him squirrels were SO SCARY haha but we have over come that!


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## mkunk1 (Nov 22, 2010)

She has a very nice, relaxed trot... after I slow her down a bit, she listens to my seat/pace. She also has a nice relaxed canter. Not the slowest but certainly not the fastest. Like I said, she's fine warming up. It's after we move to the trot she doesn't want to get back into the walk unless I take my leg off.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

mkunk, Iwould then recommend walk/trot transitions. That will also give you help. That's what my horse has trouble with too. Except, once we walk, she assumes that the ride and work is over. I just got back from the barn. Idid about 100 walk-trott and back down transitions.


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## equestrian (Oct 12, 2010)

Ak1 said:


> Okay.. So, I would see what is going on health wise... How long have you had him and where did you get him?\


I have had him for a little over a month, and I got him at a non profit rescue.


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## mkunk1 (Nov 22, 2010)

Ak1 said:


> mkunk, Iwould then recommend walk/trot transitions. That will also give you help. That's what my horse has trouble with too. Except, once we walk, she assumes that the ride and work is over. I just got back from the barn. Idid about 100 walk-trott and back down transitions.


Okay, will do! I like the counting one! I'll try it this Saturday, if it's warm enough. Thank you!
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

equestrian, Is he 100% sound and healthy? Have you ever had a chiro or anything out? His teeth good?


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Sorry equestrian I just looked back and saw that you were having a chiro out... SO, I would then recommend really strong conditioning. The balance will come. How old is he? Chances are if you got him from a rescue, he hasnt' had any formal training done. Therefore he is probably not even aware of how to. Through conditioning and work though, he will figure it out, and you can help by doing exercises that work his hind and build the muscle. If he is sound and clean, let him pop over a couple X-rails. Nothing will build his hind quarters better than jumping, and riding up hills! Hope that helps! If you have any Questions, p,lease ask!


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## mkunk1 (Nov 22, 2010)

Oh, one more question.

Do you have any tips to introducing her to trails? Slowly?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Well, the trick to conquering the trails, is to first have you horse confident and trusting you while you ride. Also, make sure that your horse is not spooky, or having any bad (as in dangerous) habits that he could test on the trail and you could end up hurt. You should work on that then work on slowly riding her outside the ring and around your barn. Small "adventures" like walking around the barn after every, or everyother ride can be very beneficial. Then things like riding in fields and whatnot can also help her confidence in you. Most horses , as long as they're free from bad or naughty habits and aren't naturally very spooky, do pretty well going in the woods. Also, I encourage talking to her in a calm voice. It helps calm your nerves as well!  hope that helps


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## equestrian (Oct 12, 2010)

Ak1 said:


> Sorry equestrian I just looked back and saw that you were having a chiro out... SO, I would then recommend really strong conditioning. The balance will come. How old is he? Chances are if you got him from a rescue, he hasnt' had any formal training done. Therefore he is probably not even aware of how to. Through conditioning and work though, he will figure it out, and you can help by doing exercises that work his hind and build the muscle. If he is sound and clean, let him pop over a couple X-rails. Nothing will build his hind quarters better than jumping, and riding up hills! Hope that helps! If you have any Questions, p,lease ask!



He is 100% sound and healthy. He's had (recent) xrays and ultrasounds out the wazoo confirming this. He is 6 years old.

Unfortunately I live in Florida and there are absolutely zero hills for conditioning. :-(


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## mkunk1 (Nov 22, 2010)

Okay, I graze her after every ride and we are slowly venturing farther around the pond and closer to gate leading to the trails. Would it be safer/better to go out with me walking beside her?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Equestrian- then try just a consistant schedule. Focus on him keeping a bend, and somewhat of a working frame. Make sure he has collection and extentions. While lunging you could also pop him over some rails. Some balance will come just with muscle building! Hope that answers your question.

mkunk- Sure! You can do that a few times if you want. Remember, you cant' move TOO slow... It's moving fast that's dangerous!


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

JUST AN UPDATE- Myfriend and I are in the process of video ing these exercises and how to do them to put on youtube as a tutorial! Hope you guys will check them out! And see our beasts!


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## BWolters (Oct 14, 2010)

Let me know when they are up!!!


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Absolutely... I understand how difficult it is when you're trying to read an exercise like those I've noticed


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## BWolters (Oct 14, 2010)

Ok kind of a random question! My OTTB is kept outside 24/7 here in Ohio. It snowed alittle today and got down to about 20 degs. He wasnt shivering or anything but his coat is maybe only about a inch long and not super thick I dont think, he seems comfy but should I go ahead and put a turn out blanket on him?


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

BWolters,
If you would like, many people prefer to keep a blanket on while there is percipitation... Especially when it's cold as well. It's up to you what you want to do, but if you start consistantly blanketing, you'll have to keep doing it because your horse won't grow in the extra winter coat (because of the blanket) and he'll get even colder. Also, if he doesn't have any excess weight as well, you should honestly consider it. Hope that helps


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## BWolters (Oct 14, 2010)

Ya talked to the lady at the tack store today, she gave me a feed mix to help put some weight on him. I have never had a "high needs horse" he was spoiled rotten and used to being in a barn etc! So I would be ok just putting it on in the rain/snow/ice etc and leave it off when its sunny etc?


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Yes that will work


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

FINALLY got my horse to my Barn!!!! YAYA


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## BWolters (Oct 14, 2010)

Where was he?


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## barrelracingstar121 (Dec 1, 2010)

Im purchasing a OTTB on Saturday :| looking forward to it though! a new adventure!


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## BWolters (Oct 14, 2010)

Ohh ok got ya!


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## Ak1 (Mar 14, 2010)

Bless OTTBS! I love them so much! This summer I'll be turning one... Well "turning".. I don't know if I'll be able to sell after the 8 months work..  I love them and get so attached that's its so hard! BUt, then I can even demonstrate the exercises on an OTTB! YAY!


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## simons161 (Nov 26, 2010)

I soo know what you mean.... OTTB #1 was being "fostered" yeah right... he's been here 3 yrs... and NOT going anywhere... OTTB #2 1 1/2 yrs... he will be ready for a perm home in the spring OTTB #3 gone to a good home OTTB #4 new and will be ready in the spring... They are the best! my 1st one, Panch and I did a ACTHA ride and got to promote "see how cute and usefull OTTB's are"... He is such a good "spokes horse", he's a Secretariat grandson...a 16.3H puppy..


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