# Fencing panels



## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

Hmmm.... for a 'regular horse' I would say you're good with putting in a post about every 30' of fence for a longer run--- the strength of pipe panels really comes from the connecting panels on a circle or small corral. If you're doing a run of fence, they will move if a horse pushes on them unless you anchor the corners and periodically along the fence. If there's grass on the other side of the fence, it will be subject to more pushing or shoving than a larger area, and the more horses in a small area, the more wear and tear. 



Now, since it's a draft horse, you have other concerns. A draft who has learned to push on fences can make short work of even the strongest pipe panels. The cheap ones from the farm store don't stand a chance. If he's respectful of fences, you will probably be fine. If he isn't, you'll have to reinforce the fence (any fence) with electric and make it zap hard to hold him. 



One guy locally had a Belgian mare that would walk through anything you put her in... including the buffalo-strong heavy duty Priefert panels and the side of a barn.... she'd just put her chest or side up to whatever she wanted moved and start pushing.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Do you refer to...







or








First picture is what is more commonly called round pen panels that connect to each other by pin & chains but can be erected near anyplace and secured in place, then moved at your whim.
The others are livestock panels with different sized openings...16' long is common size and can get expensive in a hurry to fence property with. They must have a support system of posts to stand up. I've seen cattle bend the heck out of them when they got caught in it and hung up...they stand from 36" - 52" high.
For what livestock panels cost {horse specific} you can buy round pen panels having other uses easier to make since this becomes free-standing once you hook 2 panels together.








You can make as big, small or shaped as you wish and easy to add/subtract panels as needed or wanted.
_{The difference between round pen panels and gates is round pen panels have a "foot" to elevate, support the pieces together}_

For any horse that is draft in size or a fence tester...I would be electrifying my fence as a deterrent of touching/testing to push through it!
Make the current strong so it "bites"...

:runninghorse2:...


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## Kriva (Dec 11, 2015)

horselovinguy said:


> Do you refer to...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



The green ones were what I was talking about. The other panels are also on our short list, but we would only use those if we were going to use pipe posts and weld them to the post. I think that option became the middle ground in cost. The first idea was pipe posts with the "no climb wire" all the way around...except for gates. But hubby pointed out that we would have to do a pipe across the top also since a pipe post won't hold up wire if something were to push down on it. That one is still an option that we are considering, my only hesitation is that if we did it that way I'd want an additional gate on the "back side" since we will probably fence in another area to be able to rotate paddocks or separate horses if needed and that's the direction we would want to fence in. The fully piped fence is way more "permanent" and although stronger would be a pain to take down if we wanted to change anything.


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

Maybe consider perimeter fencing being horse wire with a toprail...but use wood posts?
I personally will not have metal posts as I've seen firsthand the damage to a horses body rubbing on, bucking and landing on...catching their skin/body against can inflict some terrible injuries.
Even with a plastic cap that falls off in short time...no to metal posts for me.
Welding anything to those posts as you describe just made moving them not so easy either.


The round pen panels can easily be moved to create what ever configurations you need or want...
They can be also secured with sinking wood posts exterior of the panels, but then you could probably do those metal posts like that as long as the horses remain on the side away from that sharp edge and roughness.:|


Decisions, decisions...lots to make.
:runninghorse2:..


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## Kriva (Dec 11, 2015)

SilverMaple said:


> Hmmm.... for a 'regular horse' I would say you're good with putting in a post about every 30' of fence for a longer run--- the strength of pipe panels really comes from the connecting panels on a circle or small corral. If you're doing a run of fence, they will move if a horse pushes on them unless you anchor the corners and periodically along the fence. If there's grass on the other side of the fence, it will be subject to more pushing or shoving than a larger area, and the more horses in a small area, the more wear and tear.



It was the span of each side of the fenced area that concerned me. I knew 100' of panels like that was too much to stand up to not falling if pushed on, but wasn't sure how far you could actually go with them before putting in a post of some kind. Right now grass is the same on both sides of the fence but I'm sure that will change as soon as a horse is in there. Plus...doesn't the grass always look greener? If we have to put in too many posts along the sides (we knew the corners would have to be solid) then we might as well go with a full pipe fence). 






SilverMaple said:


> Now, since it's a draft horse, you have other concerns. A draft who has learned to push on fences can make short work of even the strongest pipe panels. The cheap ones from the farm store don't stand a chance. If he's respectful of fences, you will probably be fine. If he isn't, you'll have to reinforce the fence (any fence) with electric and make it zap hard to hold him.



We were told by the person we're dealing with in seeing/purchasing him that he doesn't push on the fences and just an electric tape fence would be fine. I trust them (not a stranger, one of my past trainers) but just because he doesn't push on the fence where he's been for years, doesn't mean he won't when moved to a new area. And we have no idea what we'll be getting as a second horse so we might as well put up something strong to begin with. 






SilverMaple said:


> One guy locally had a Belgian mare that would walk through anything you put her in... including the buffalo-strong heavy duty Priefert panels and the side of a barn.... she'd just put her chest or side up to whatever she wanted moved and start pushing.



I follow several draft groups on FB and have seen posts where people start talking about how many fences their drafts have gone through. They can definitely push their way through just about anything they want to go through. The guy I'm getting is only 15 hands high, but he is stout. I'd imagine anything that's not completely permanent, if he really wanted out he could get out.


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## george the mule (Dec 7, 2014)

The corral panels nominally come in 10, 12, and 16ft. As a free-standing barrier, that is with no additional support, they depend on being set at an angle to the adjacent panel for rigidity. In a straight line, you will want at least a t-post every second or third panel. If set in a circle, ie a "Round Pen", you can certainly make a free-standing 60ft diameter pen; possibly a little larger, but the closer the cord sections (the panels) come to a straight line, the more unstable it becomes.
Horses are large strong critters, and if they take a mind to, they will fold, spindle, and mutilate even the stoutest portable panels (and themselves in the process), but for the most part they will not challenge them, and so enclosures from them are generally quite secure.
They are expensive; a 12ft panel averages probably $100 new. If you can find decent used ones, maybe $60 for the same panel. They are very useful things, both for semi-permanent and temporary enclosures. Spring for at least one walk-thru gate; ~$250.
All that said, you can build a smooth-wire-on-t-post fence for a fraction of the cost, and it will do just as good of a job keeping horses inside the fence line. Wire fences go up fast, with little effort, particularly if you can find a burly youth to pound in the t-posts for you.
Have fun with your new kids.
Edit to add: If you don't mind spending the money, just do your property perimeter in steel pipe fence and be done with it. This will certainly enhance the property value (as a "horse property") at least the cost of having the fence installed. For 40 acres you are probably looking at what? $100K? Anybody have a better guess?


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## ApuetsoT (Aug 22, 2014)

I'd go with a more permanent solution sooner. With portable panels, if a horse gets caught in one, the whole things is coming down when they struggle. It won't break like a board will.


Maybe a general question for anyone, when you say pipe fencing, what exactly are you meaning? I have gotten the impression over time that what I know as pipe fences isn't the standard.


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## Kriva (Dec 11, 2015)

ApuetsoT said:


> I'd go with a more permanent solution sooner. With portable panels, if a horse gets caught in one, the whole things is coming down when they struggle. It won't break like a board will.
> 
> 
> Maybe a general question for anyone, when you say pipe fencing, what exactly are you meaning? I have gotten the impression over time that what I know as pipe fences isn't the standard.



This is what I mean by pipe fencing. It could also be the same type of upright posts with three horizontal pipes running across and no wires. Although the full pipe fence looks nice, it's much more expensive and I can just imagine a smaller horse (or even some bigger ones) trying to squeeze their bodies through the pipes.


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## Kriva (Dec 11, 2015)

george the mule said:


> If you don't mind spending the money, just do your property perimeter in steel pipe fence and be done with it. This will certainly enhance the property value (as a "horse property") at least the cost of having the fence installed. For 40 acres you are probably looking at what? $100K? Anybody have a better guess?



Outside of the money part of it which would be way more than we have to spend on fencing, we also hunt on our property. Although we are careful, accidents can happen so I don't want any horses running loose during hunting season. Our neighbors on one side aren't so careful and are the "city during the week, country on the weekend" type of people and they also hunt and at this point I'm thinking they should not even own firearms much less try to shoot anything with one. The horse corral/paddock will be set up in a manner that the neighbors can't see or reach the horses. And since they think it's ok to shoot up a fence line we don't want the horses to have free access to the property boundaries.
On the other side of our property is a big hay field. And rows of round bales close to the fence line. Just about any horse would try to push their way through to that tempting buffet. :shock:


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## horselovinguy (Oct 1, 2013)

With that said about fences and neighbors and their aptitude for livestock.... :|

The picture you posted of a fence you like...problem with it.
The fence needs strung on your side, inside the posts for strength, same as the top rail applied.
A horse pushing against a woven wire fence will pop it off the posts after they bend the heck out of it.
Placing it against the posts...the horses push against it and the posts...much stronger.
Now, I know money is a concern and consideration for all of us...
However, strength in your fencing comes from not having to much distance between posts, no matter what those posts are constructed of.
My posts are 8' on center so my top rail which is 16' long 1x6x16 land on posts for securing...that is over the top of my horse woven wire fence...and still the neighbors horses from scratching/rubbing endlessly on the fence have bent it "bowed", but they haven't broken it nor let my guys out or them in. :smile:
Now I also have a 1 acre fenced sacrifice area pasture for whenever and that is not fenced super "strong"...
We placed posts every 16' added toprail over the livestock wire used their...my horses snapped the top board rubbing against it for a itch...not enough support.
So it does matter greatly your spacing of posts for safety reasons...
I can clear my regular fence 8' spaced posts no problem...
My fence spaced 16'...nope, it wobbles to much.

Now I also have board fence in my backyard where I see it...
I happen to love "the look" of board fencing.
4 board on wood posts...we made to withstand cattle stupidity as recommenced. 
Same boards as my toprail but these have more support behind them with fence posts spaced every 5'6" apart on center think hubby sunk the posts.
Makes a difference, a huge one. 

Spend the money sinking some posts and make them deep enough they can withstand some abuse...
We sank all posts starting with 8' length on all of them...overkill yes, but my fence is not going anyplace and is now 16 years old as strong and straight as the day it was put up...called good investment to me.
Just tidbits we learned by doing... :wink:
:runninghorse2:...


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## Cynical25 (Mar 7, 2013)

Kriva said:


> This is what I mean by pipe fencing. It could also be the same type of upright posts with three horizontal pipes running across and no wires. Although the full pipe fence looks nice, it's much more expensive and I can just imagine a smaller horse (or even some bigger ones) trying to squeeze their bodies through the pipes.


I have a similar looking fence along my 375' of road frontage - round pipe posts with a single round pipe top rail, then wire cattle panels welded to the inside. This fence is 6 years old and in perfect shape, aside from needing a new coat of black paint. I LOVE how it looks, and it provides a highly visible barrier for horses inside and drivers outside  Unfortunately, it costs about $18/foot in my area of North Texas, which is why I don't have it throughout my entire property, lol.

As for corral panels, my generally fence-respecting 750lb Arab completely destroyed 2 of the heavy duty panels during some fireworks this July, and tore up her legs and neck - I would NOT consider them for housing a draft horse!


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## SilverMaple (Jun 24, 2017)

Yeah, panels make a nice high, visual barrier that most horses respect, but a horse that wants out of them WILL get out.


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## QtrBel (May 31, 2012)

1/4 of an acre for one draft sized horse does not give them a lot of space to move and you will be feeding (I assume you know that already) as grass won't hold up. I also assume you'll be riding daily to give him a good amount of exercise. 



I do use priefert panels for a small oval ring and found that best is a post at each junction. This was just with a small QH that was aggressively pushing. The following picture is of a straight run that a draft decided it wanted out of. I've seen this with my own with one in particular. She would also lift and lay over square stock tubing gates that it took three men to lift. Anything less than that and she would make it look like a coke can that had been crushed in a recycler. Adding the reinforcement makes it harder but my worry is in that small of a containment the temptation may be to look for ways out.


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