# electrobraid horse fencing?



## Cruiser (Aug 28, 2011)

Lots of people use it where I am (the maker is local so maybe the reason). It appears very visible, strong and carrys a charge good. I'll be honest though it doesn't work better or worst the cheaper brands out there, but some people need the brand.


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## RitzieAnn (Dec 22, 2010)

I just bought this stuff:

Powerfields 9 Wire HD Polywire - Horse.com

I like it. It's a little thicker than the stuff I had before, and it tensions really nicely. It's also thin enough that it's very easy to work with. I have one fence that I didn't want to put a bunch of gate handles on, but didn't want it solid either, as it's an exit (seldomly used) from the back side of our property, but right by the house, so I used plastic ring insulators, and tied a loop in the end of each strand. I'm about to go order more


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

Many companies make 1/4" electric polyrope, and we've used it for years with no problems at all. If your horse(s) respect electric, you can get by with one strand at 3' (chest high) with posts 30' apart. Our mares will graze all the way to it, but never mess with it. It's inexpensive, quick to install, and easy to repair. Just like HT wire, fallen branches, etc. will just weight it down, so you just need to remove them at it springs right back.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

RitzieAnn said:


> I just bought this stuff:
> 
> Powerfields 9 Wire HD Polywire - Horse.com
> 
> I like it. It's a little thicker than the stuff I had before, and it tensions really nicely. It's also thin enough that it's very easy to work with. I have one fence that I didn't want to put a bunch of gate handles on, but didn't want it solid either, as it's an exit (seldomly used) from the back side of our property, but right by the house, so I used plastic ring insulators, and tied a loop in the end of each strand. I'm about to go order more


Wow! It's *way* cheaper than the electrobraid!:shock: I should try this stuff out. My horse respects electric fences but He's used to plain wire. Can you use this together with wire? I mean, put this as the top strand and add plain wire underneath? and do you have to melt the ends to prevent fraying? How do you attach it to the charger? 
Thanks!


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## GhostwindAppaloosa (Jun 3, 2011)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> Wow! It's *way* cheaper than the electrobraid!:shock: I should try this stuff out. My horse respects electric fences but He's used to plain wire. Can you use this together with wire? I mean, put this as the top strand and add plain wire underneath? and do you have to melt the ends to prevent fraying? How do you attach it to the charger?
> Thanks!


 we've tried using that just to partition off pastures. does NOT shock very well. Our horses push right through it. 

Electrobraid is worth the money. the savings alone in post spacing (you can go up to 150ft on flat ground will save you money. We just redid our whole property in it.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Ok I see. But isnt there any thing cheaper than electrobraid that works?:?


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## RitzieAnn (Dec 22, 2010)

I've got 3 horses & a goat that stay in that stuff. I've been hit by it. It has a good kick, I think. Goats, as a general, need very solid fencing. Charlie stays in 2 strands of this stuff strung across temporary posts. 

The horses are 9, 6 & 4. I've had them in this type of fence material for just over 3 years. I really like it. 

It connects to the fencer just as metal wire would. I do use a metal strand from the fencer to my ground post though.

It would be easy to alternate the polywire & metal wire, but I wouldn't think it necessary.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Eolith (Sep 30, 2007)

If you're thinking of getting Electrobraid and looking for a good deal, you'd do well to act fast on this one:

Electric Horse Fencing | ElectroBraid 1000 Foot Roll

This is a significantly lower price for the 1000 foot roll than anywhere else I've seen, but I think it's only a limited time offer.


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> Ok I see. But isnt there any thing cheaper than electrobraid that works?:?


This is typically what we use from TSC Zareba® 200 Meter 6 Strand Polyrope - 1027627 | Tractor Supply Company


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

my fence is the 2 " tape, forget the brand,it is green , it was not cheap. I have used some cheap white tape, breaks, and the smaller tape 1/4 " and the poly rope.. most of that is in the trash. it depends on how many wires are in the tape or braid for it to be effective. the more the better and the more it cost


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

The braids were never intended for perimeter fencing because the wind can create tremendous pressure until it shreds. Wire is still the safest for perimeter fencing. The other products are good for dividing fencing within the perimeter. I've had 1/2" ribbon shred. Once the horses are behind wire they'll get to where if they see two fence posts they assume wire is there.


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## mtranby (Jan 30, 2013)

*ElectroBraid*

There will always be less expensive brands out there but remember you get what you pay for. Make sure you check the warranty it will speak for itself and also the break strength. Yes electricity will keep them in but if something happens to the electric source you need to have the fence be strong enough to contain until power is back on. ElectroBriad has a 25 yr warranty and 1300 lbs of break strength.


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## Eolith (Sep 30, 2007)

Yes, Electrobraid is 1300 lbs of break strength (the highest I've seen on any of the other polyrope brands is 860 or so). The conductivity of the copper is also much higher, which makes it more effective when it does zap the horse... thus the horses are less inclined to want to push through it anyway.

I have been doing some research lately and mtranby is right -- you get what you pay for. Sometimes the cheaper stuff still works okay, but the more expensive products like Electrobraid often work better.


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## JoesMom (Jun 19, 2012)

All of my cross fencing is quarter inch braid. It has held my horses on this property for 10 years. I sold one mare a month ago to a person who has smooth wire electric fencing and this horse just runs through it. I know this mare tests fences and that is why I got the braid. She would walk up and put her whiskers on the fence then walk away from the braid. She would just walk through the smaller fencing. I know nothing about how this persons fencing is done, but it is obviously not holding a charge like it should. I use the braid sold by local store because that is what I have available locally. Not sure what brand it is right now.


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

The point of an electric fence with most horses is that once they know it zaps them good, they don't test it. Our fence isn't even on half the time and I don't worry about the power going out. If a horse wants to run through the fence, 1300 lbs break force is not going to stop them any more than 850 lbs or a board fence for that matter. Get a good, strong charger and a good ground and you'll be good to go.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

What is 'break strength'?:?


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> What is 'break strength'?:?


How many pounds of force before the wire/rope breaks.


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## RitzieAnn (Dec 22, 2010)

PaintHorseMares said:


> The point of an electric fence with most horses is that once they know it zaps them good, they don't test it. Our fence isn't even on half the time and I don't worry about the power going out. If a horse wants to run through the fence, 1300 lbs break force is not going to stop them any more than 850 lbs or a board fence for that matter. Get a good, strong charger and a good ground and you'll be good to go.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 
AGREE! Once my horses each got 'bit' by the fence, they've never tried to test it again. While feeding last night, I realized that the fence was unplugged. I was amazed the goat (who has discovered he can easily climb the livestock fencing when ever he pleases) was still in. He won't touch it now, as he got 'bit' in the nose with it a few days ago.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

My horse is really respectful of electric fences and dosnt test them ,even if the power is off. That's because he's been around them since he was born. I just want to have something more visible(my horse sometimes runs around his paddock really fast-its scary!:shock and I dont always want to have to rely on electricity. For example, what if I got another horse in the future? one that didnt grow up with electric fences? Is it possible to put up a wire mesh fence and reinforce it with electricity? How high does an electric fence have to be?
Thanks


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## RitzieAnn (Dec 22, 2010)

Height, in my opinion, depends if your horse likes to jump. Mine don't, and they will all stay in something as low as belly height. 

Livestock fencing is good, but you want to have a top line on it, because they will reach over the top of it to eat the "greener" grass.


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## tim62988 (Aug 30, 2012)

the true factor of why animals will push through one fence but not another isn't as much the type of fence but what is attatched to it.

a good fencer is a must especially if you have a horse that tests fences, granted a good fencer with a super cheap poly wire isn't going to do as much because it's not going to be quite as connected as a solid wire

The person asking about using poly fence as a top and hard wire on the bottom, I personally would switch it to the hardwire on top, or just use hard wire for the perimiter and then use the poly wires to section off areas for grazing/regrowth


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Your horse knows exactly where the wire is. I used to watch my graze and his ear would be within half an inch of the single strand - nerve wracking to watch. I've watched the horse run and slide on wet grass thinking that's it, they're going thro but both always managed to get stopped in time, close, but not touching. Horses seem to have the ability to map their territory as has been noted with blind horses.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

RitzieAnn said:


> Height, in my opinion, depends if your horse likes to jump. Mine don't, and they will all stay in something as low as belly height.
> 
> Livestock fencing is good, but you want to have a top line on it, because *they will reach over the top of it to eat the "greener" grass*.


 Thats why I wanted to put a wire over the mesh so he wouldnt dare lean over it.


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## JoesMom (Jun 19, 2012)

I put a single line around the perimeter of my field attached to the inside of the other fence and chest high. It has done away with all the leaning over to eat the neighbor's hay. To train the horses to electric fence I ran a twenty foot piece across an opening and put grain and hay on the other side then turned it on. It only took about twice for them to figure out where the sting came from. Didn't have a bit of trouble until this mare came that had been kept in bad fencing and she always tested to see if it was on.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Is electric fencing by itself actually safe for horses?


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> Is electric fencing by itself actually safe for horses?


Yes, it is safe.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

Our fence consistent of 4 strands of nautical grade electric rope (7mm, not the thin stuff) hung on treated wooden posts 16'apart with screw in insulators. The top and third strand are electrified. We have used this and only this for the past 2 1/2 years to keep our four horses in with very few problems. I had one strand come undone this week partly because the fastener was a bit loose (cold shrinkage) and partly because my draft cross was pawing at the bottom wire to get at a new mare across the fence. The rope didn't break, it simply came undone at the joiner, but held at the next insulator. The three strands above it were fine. This was also the non-electrified strand. I'm pretty sure all my horses knows which strands are hot and which are not as they get very close to the fence but don't often get zapped.

This type of fence works well in all weather and is easy to maintain. It is important however to use a good charging unit, ground it properly and select good posts for support. I notice our fence does tend to expand and loosen a bit in the cold, so I do check it regularly in the winter. For reference, our temperatures range from +35C in the summer and can go down to -45C in the winter. The fence takes this, no problem. Even with 2 feet of snow on the ground, the conduction is good at -40 (as I found out the day before last).


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Ok I was thinking about doing something like this:








How thick should the wooden posts be for mesh?


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## deserthorsewoman (Sep 13, 2011)

That's what I have, but the hot wire on top of the posts. 
How thick will depend on what distance they will be. 
If you want them to completely stay away from the fence, run another strand hot inside the mesh, about chest height.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

The posts are about 16' apart. and are 2-3" wide.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

Are you using treated wood posts? They wil work fine for the electrobraid, but are a little far apart for mesh. Unless you buy a fairly heavy gauge mesh, like that shown in the photo, it will sag if the posts are too far apart. I have similar mesh around my back yard with 4-5" posts 12' apart, and it still sags a bit.

The mesh is quite expensive and challenging to work with in long stretches, as it is hard to keep tight. The ground also needs to be level for it to sit well. You will likely find it costs less and serves just as well to put in more substantial posts and multiple strands of rope.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Koolio said:


> Are you using treated wood posts? They wil work fine for the electrobraid, but are a little far apart for mesh. Unless you buy a fairly heavy gauge mesh, like that shown in the photo, it will sag if the posts are too far apart. I have similar mesh around my back yard with 4-5" posts 12' apart, and it still sags a bit.
> 
> The mesh is *quite expensive and challenging to work* with in long stretches, as it is hard to keep tight. The ground also needs to be level for it to sit well. You will likely find it costs less and serves just as well to put in more substantial posts and multiple strands of rope.


Yeah I've thought about that. I think I'll go with the electrobraid, maybe.
I think our posts are pressure treated-I'll have to ask my dad.


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> Yeah I've thought about that. I think I'll go with the electrobraid, maybe.
> I think our posts are pressure treated-I'll have to ask my dad.



Even pressure treated posts at 2-3" aren't going to be terribly strong. You will also need to brace your corners or put in heavier and longer corner posts. 

What kind of ground are they going into? Is it soft, rocky, clay? That will make a big difference too. My paddock used to be a hay field where the soil is rich and black with few rocks or clay. I've had at least one post come loose from the ground and so I had to take it out and cement it back in.


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## RitzieAnn (Dec 22, 2010)

The picture you posted is basically what most of my property is. We just purchased it, and the previous owners had sheep. I added a hot line to the top, up high, and ended up having to add one right at the goats chest height, because he figured out he could climb over it. My livestock fencing is only 4ft tall (and not tensioned very well) The wood posts they used are about 4 inches in diameter.


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## horsecrazygirl13 (Jul 16, 2012)

Koolio said:


> Even pressure treated posts at 2-3" aren't going to be terribly strong. You will also need to brace your corners or put in heavier and longer corner posts.
> 
> What kind of ground are they going into? Is it soft, rocky, clay? That will make a big difference too. My paddock used to be a hay field where the soil is rich and black with few rocks or clay. I've had at least one post come loose from the ground and so I had to take it out and cement it back in.


 The ground at our place is dark dirt and clay deeper down. Some of the posts can be 'wiggled' a little bit. Would that be a problem? how thick should the posts be?


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## Koolio (Apr 7, 2010)

horsecrazygirl13 said:


> The ground at our place is dark dirt and clay deeper down. Some of the posts can be 'wiggled' a little bit. Would that be a problem? how thick should the posts be?


You don't really want any wiggle in your posts. If they move, they need to go in deeper or you need to cement or tamp dirt around them to make them more secure. As to how thick, I prefer the 4-5" posts because I could safely tie any or my horses to these and they wouldn't likely pull it out or break the post if they pulled back. How heavy your posts need to be depends on what you are using for fencing and how far apart they are. If you are stringing 3-4 strands of rope, you can get away with a thinner post, but will need more of them. If the clay in your ground is shallow, you may have difficulty pounding in thinner posts without breaking them. In this case, you can use heavier posts, metal posts or auger your post holes. 

As another alternative, you could put in heavier posts further apart (say 50') and then fill the gaps with lighter or step in posts every 12-15'. This isn't my preference, but doable.

I use step in plastic posts to cross fence inside my paddocks, but would never use these for the perimeter or for permanent fencing. Two strands of rope is a out all they can handle without bending.


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