# ? on seeding pasture and maintenance



## karliejaye (Nov 19, 2011)

Do you know what species were in the mix you seeded? Some do better with mowing, others do better when left to go to seed the first year or 2 and every few years.
I would be inclined to say leave it for this year. 
As for maintaining it, splitting it and rotating sections helps. But no matter what, deferred grazing is always important, that is defering grazing until the grass reaches 6-8 inches in height. You will want to pull them off when the grass gets down to 4 inches. This is not only good for the longevity of the grass, but it also controls the sugar spikes somewhat and is good for the horses.


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

If the ground is dry enough put the horses on it. If it goes to seed it will stop growing.


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## GracielaGata (Jan 14, 2012)

Okay, so I need to call Big R to find out the specifics on our combo, but here is one I found online, for the Great Basin area, which I think this is, right?
Crested Wheatgrass
Orchardgrass, Paiute
Meadow Bromegrass
Dahurian Wildrye
Thickspike Wheatgrass
Alfalfa

I am with you, I think, Karlie... in leaving it to do as it will. I just didn't know if it would just leave the old plant laying on the ground at the end of the season, and grow new again come spring. lol 
Saddlebags... I was told to not let them graze, as they will pull the roots out, dry, wet, whatever the ground is... I would think that to be more important to be careful of than it going to seed, right?

Karlie, I do plan to be MUCH more careful in our future grazing. We had so much going on when we moved in, and most of the pastures was 3ft tall wild flower stuff anyhow, so we didn't have a clue what to do! I REALLY need to pay attention to the 3-4inch rule... so important for good pasture health! And even the yard! I had to get after my DH because he trimmed the yard to short... tisk tisk... more work for the plant!

Thanks!


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

How big are your pastures, OP? I agree that you need to watch for root damage until the plants are well established; however I think that if your grasses have reached knee height, it won't hurt to let your horses out for short periods to graze. If the grass is still quite green, the horses will tend to bite off the upper portions leaving the stems close to the root alone. When pasture grass gets too old (ie not growing), the horses tend to leave the top stuff and hunt for new growth at ground level putting the roots at more risk - so you'll need to watch for that happening and keep them off the pasture at that point. If you keep them off the pasture entirely and don't mow it, the grass will come back next spring. If you keep them off the pasture and do a mow with the grass being as tall as it is and don't pick it up you can leave quite a bit of debris which may block growth (kind of like putting mulch down around shrubs - blocks the sun and prevents new growth) - the grass will still come back but may not be as thick.


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## karliejaye (Nov 19, 2011)

Nice mix! Don't be surprised if the horses go after the orchardgrass and brome, and leave the thickspike and the crested wheatgrass. Smaller roatational pastures will make for more uniform grazing. Crested Wheatgrass should help substantially with the soil stability once it is well established.


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## GracielaGata (Jan 14, 2012)

karliejaye said:


> Nice mix! Don't be surprised if the horses go after the orchardgrass and brome, and leave the thickspike and the crested wheatgrass. Smaller roatational pastures will make for more uniform grazing. Crested Wheatgrass should help substantially with the soil stability once it is well established.


I can only hope then that those are the grasses in it! lol I just pulled that from some company's page... I need to call Big R and ask what is in their mix. I just know it is meant for local pastures, and meant to survive being non-irrigated. 



Chevaux said:


> How big are your pastures, OP? I agree that you need to watch for root damage until the plants are well established; however I think that if your grasses have reached knee height, it won't hurt to let your horses out for short periods to graze. If the grass is still quite green, the horses will tend to bite off the upper portions leaving the stems close to the root alone. When pasture grass gets too old (ie not growing), the horses tend to leave the top stuff and hunt for new growth at ground level putting the roots at more risk - so you'll need to watch for that happening and keep them off the pasture at that point. If you keep them off the pasture entirely and don't mow it, the grass will come back next spring. If you keep them off the pasture and do a mow with the grass being as tall as it is and don't pick it up you can leave quite a bit of debris which may block growth (kind of like putting mulch down around shrubs - blocks the sun and prevents new growth) - the grass will still come back but may not be as thick.


It is about an acre, the other, about 2, I believe. So there really isn't much chance of them pulling roots out? When we take them out to ride, and let them graze there, it is all established, and they pull out probably 50% of the roots in what they grab. And these are in non-cultivated areas, all the same length roughly as our pastures. . So that is what worries me.  I totally hear you on if I were to cut it and not remove it. I definitely did not want to do that.


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

I seeded our pastures with the dryland pasture mix about 15 years ago. We plowed and seeded in the fall. The following summer, it was good and thick enough for horses to graze on. We just finished plowing the bottom pasture again,as various weeds and wild rose bushes were coming in, also the ground needed to be aerated anyways, not bad for 15 years of grazing. I think next year after the snow melts and the grass starts growing, it will be ready for grazing. I have 10 acres, separated in to 3 pastures, the other two seem to be fine.


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## stevenson (Sep 12, 2011)

since you are in a high moisture area, i would not mow and leave forage on the ground. 
Can you get it mowed, dried and baled for winter use ? then next year you will have the pasture for grazing, and still get some use from it ?


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## GracielaGata (Jan 14, 2012)

waresbear said:


> I seeded our pastures with the dryland pasture mix about 15 years ago. We plowed and seeded in the fall. The following summer, it was good and thick enough for horses to graze on. We just finished plowing the bottom pasture again,as various weeds and wild rose bushes were coming in, also the ground needed to be aerated anyways, not bad for 15 years of grazing. I think next year after the snow melts and the grass starts growing, it will be ready for grazing. I have 10 acres, separated in to 3 pastures, the other two seem to be fine.


Huh... Interesting. I did a bit more research just now, and only could find something from the U. of Utah, it said keep off for 2 years... but they are even drier than us still lol. 



stevenson said:


> since you are in a high moisture area, i would not mow and leave forage on the ground.
> Can you get it mowed, dried and baled for winter use ? then next year you will have the pasture for grazing, and still get some use from it ?


I don't think we are in a high moisture area, comparatively speaking to the rest over here. We are in the desert-ish area to the west of Spokane. Or I think this is what everyone tells us. lol We aren't from here, so we are still learning the geography and weather. I had assumed there was a reason that we did dryland seed... in part because our rainfall isn't enough to support it?

I think as a semi-compromise, I might try them out on it tomorrow for a bit, and watch to see what they yank up or not. Oh, and as to my previous thought on them yanking up the wild fields when our riding.. my husband says it isn't 50%... so who knows! I just know that it happens frequently enough to note.


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## Chevaux (Jun 27, 2012)

GracielaGata said:


> ... So there really isn't much chance of them pulling roots out? When we take them out to ride, and let them graze there, it is all established, and they pull out probably 50% of the roots in what they grab. ...


I assume you mean some place other than your pasture when you are riding??? It's entirely possible they can pull up roots where seed has naturally fallen on unprepared (or native) soil and a plant started up - the seed essentially started on top of the dirt, can't get a really deep root system going and is more likely to pop out of the ground when grabbed by horse teeth (that's the advantage of cultivation in that it helps put seeds in at the proper depth and loosens the soil to let the roots get deeper quickly).


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

Dryland pasture mix is for seeding areas that you can't irrigate when you seed it, sure it helps if you do, or if it rains after you seed, but it's hardy stuff, it will germinate without watering it. My lawn is dryland pasture mix, I will sometimes turn on the sprinklers for it. I find it a big waste of fresh water to grow a lawn only to cut it, but I was having a gift opening/barbeque for the day after my daughter's wedding, I thought this is only gonna happen once, go for it.


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## Left Hand Percherons (Feb 1, 2011)

It's hard not to get impatient and start grazing a newly planted pasture when it's 18" or more. What you aren't seeing, the establishment of roots, is more important. You just overseeded so your root system is very shallow at this point. The roots need to be 2X the height of the plant in sandy soil. It's time to put down a good fertilizer to feed the roots. Look for something with a good P value and moderate N. (N for tops, P for roots and K for both). I would let the plant go to seed. Let it drop the seeds and overseed the pasture even more. Graze it late fall. All that tall growth will not mess up next years growth. It will help protect the plants from the cold, it will help hold soil and snow will get trapped so it won't blow away and help prevent winterkill.


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## ridemcowgirl069 (Jul 29, 2013)

Mow it down to 6 inches. Then mow it again after 2 weeks. Once it's been able to be mowed a few times it should have a good enough root system to have the horses back on it. To make sure just pull on some strands and if it's hard to pull out the roots, your good to go. Make sure you rotate your pastures when they've been eaten down to 3 inches tall and don't let them back on until it's reached 6 to 8 inches. Should only take about 2 or 3 weeks. If it's the only pasture you have to put them on, divide into 3 sections so one is being grazed while one is being mowed and the third is being rested. You'll get more use out of a smaller space doing it this way and they won't be overgrazing. It also helps force them to graze evenly instead of over grazing in some spots and leaving others untouched. I've been able to keep 2 horses per acre using rotational grazing like this. In September, you need to make sure to fertilize and lime your pastures according to what your soil test says. This way you'll have great pastures in the spring when you put the horses back on it
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## GracielaGata (Jan 14, 2012)

Chevaux said:


> I assume you mean some place other than your pasture when you are riding??? It's entirely possible they can pull up roots where seed has naturally fallen on unprepared (or native) soil and a plant started up - the seed essentially started on top of the dirt, can't get a really deep root system going and is more likely to pop out of the ground when grabbed by horse teeth (that's the advantage of cultivation in that it helps put seeds in at the proper depth and loosens the soil to let the roots get deeper quickly).


Sorry I never replied! Actually, I did, but it must have timed out, and I got busy and didn't realize!  Yep, some place not in our property line. I can't be positive, but they don't seem to be on the surface, just a super weak to pulling variety. We also have a variety of this in our property, though not the main pastures. We temp fenced them into a spot to graze, and they pulled out nearly everything, then just spit it out, as they seem to hate that type, or hate that the roots come too (the more likely reason).



waresbear said:


> Dryland pasture mix is for seeding areas that you can't irrigate when you seed it, sure it helps if you do, or if it rains after you seed, but it's hardy stuff, it will germinate without watering it. My lawn is dryland pasture mix, I will sometimes turn on the sprinklers for it. I find it a big waste of fresh water to grow a lawn only to cut it, but I was having a gift opening/barbeque for the day after my daughter's wedding, I thought this is only gonna happen once, go for it.


Yep, dryland.  I just haven't found any info on how to care for it in pasture settings, aside from don't let them graze it/on it for 2 years. 



Left Hand Percherons said:


> It's hard not to get impatient and start grazing a newly planted pasture when it's 18" or more. What you aren't seeing, the establishment of roots, is more important. You just overseeded so your root system is very shallow at this point. The roots need to be 2X the height of the plant in sandy soil. It's time to put down a good fertilizer to feed the roots. Look for something with a good P value and moderate N. (N for tops, P for roots and K for both). I would let the plant go to seed. Let it drop the seeds and overseed the pasture even more. Graze it late fall. All that tall growth will not mess up next years growth. It will help protect the plants from the cold, it will help hold soil and snow will get trapped so it won't blow away and help prevent winterkill.


I will remember all this, hopefully!  I do like the idea of the soil and snow staying to help it out. Now let's hope we don't get the massive thaws like this past winter. We supposedly got 8 inches more than normal snowfall. But the only thing that is going to grow massively due to that extra is the ditch runoff areas! Down came the snow... out came the sun, up went the temperatures, there went the snow, flooding down to the ditch runoffs! Urgh!


ridemcowgirl069 said:


> Mow it down to 6 inches. Then mow it again after 2 weeks. Once it's been able to be mowed a few times it should have a good enough root system to have the horses back on it. To make sure just pull on some strands and if it's hard to pull out the roots, your good to go. Make sure you rotate your pastures when they've been eaten down to 3 inches tall and don't let them back on until it's reached 6 to 8 inches. Should only take about 2 or 3 weeks. If it's the only pasture you have to put them on, divide into 3 sections so one is being grazed while one is being mowed and the third is being rested. You'll get more use out of a smaller space doing it this way and they won't be overgrazing. It also helps force them to graze evenly instead of over grazing in some spots and leaving others untouched. I've been able to keep 2 horses per acre using rotational grazing like this. In September, you need to make sure to fertilize and lime your pastures according to what your soil test says. This way you'll have great pastures in the spring when you put the horses back on it
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


The only thing is we can't really mow. The pastures are *full* of boulders and rocks. We are slowly trying to get rid of them, but more just pop in their place, so we aren't anywhere close to being safe to mow. I can probably convince my husband to go at some of it with the weedeater, but it is about 2 acres worth, so it might be a while! lol We could divide the areas off more. I just hate to see horses sitting in paddocks/pastures that they can't get up enough head to really run around and have fun. Even if they do have yummy food under their feet.  They currently are in a different acre + area. 
I definitely need to go get the fertilizer and lime for the fall. So I assume horse poop spread with a drag doesn't count, huh?! 

Thanks everyone for the help.


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## karliejaye (Nov 19, 2011)

GracielaGata said:


> I definitely need to go get the fertilizer and lime for the fall. So I assume horse poop spread with a drag doesn't count, huh?!
> 
> Thanks everyone for the help.


That manure does have some NPK value (Nitorgen-Phosphorous-Potassium). Some extension services will test it for you, then you know how much of other stuff to add (if any!). Soil and manure/compost tests are the best bet.


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## ridemcowgirl069 (Jul 29, 2013)

Haha I know how you feel. My mower broke down so now we're using a push mower and a weed eater on 5 of our acres. Even if all you can do is weed eat it that would still be good. You can't let it grow so tall because once it gets above 8 to 10 inches the plant stops using its carbs for foliage and starts using it for the seed heads and then once it has seeds it goes dormant, and if your horses are as picky as mine they won't want to eat it and they'll start pulling up any new growth close to the ground then you'll be left with a field of stemy grass that has gone dormant for the year and the horses won't like. Another reason it has to be mowed is because the new growth needs light to produce carbs or it will die. Also you might want to dethatch it if your thatch is more than a 1/4 inch thick so new plant growth can come up. We had a field that hadn't been touched in years and we took the weed eater to it than we dethatched it and with in about 2 weeks it was absolutely beautiful. You really just need to go out and walk your whole field and look very closely at what's going on at ground level. You can also call your local extension office and they can send someone out to walk the field with you and they'll know exactly what needs to be done.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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