# High Strongyle worm count



## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

Follow your vet's advice, he has the degree. Strongyles are nasty and one of the parasites resistant to many classes of wormers.


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## NorthernMama (Mar 12, 2008)

Yup, keep at the wormer as the vet suggests. A friend of mine had this happen to her and the vet supplied her with a "super" strongyle wormer that could only be had by prescription (in Ontario anyway). She had to dose him daily for two weeks. It worked; he ended up loosing some weight over it, but it was what was needed.


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## franknbeans (Jun 7, 2007)

My old guy seemingly always "carried " stongyles years ago. FOr a few years he was even on the feed thru (strongid). For some reason he was bee fine the last 10 yrs. Follow what the vet says for sure. No other choice, really.


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## Hawksnest Farm (Dec 31, 2011)

Oh, I'm definitely following Vets advice - I was just wondering what you guys knew about that 750 count?? Should I be very concerned? What is the worst case scenario with these worms anyways?? 

I'm dreading this whole thing because my gelding is so bad at taking the wormer tube. I just started today with giving him applesauce in an empty wormer tube, I will keep doing this for a few days then when he least expects it.....hahaha


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## MoodIndigo (Oct 18, 2010)

Well I'm just wondering the reason for retesting only 2 weeks after giving the Panacur? Benzimidazoles (fenbendazole, I think, is what it says on the box) have an egg repression period of 4 weeks. Testing for effectiveness at 2 weeks won't give you an accurate egg count.

Also, I'm not sure where you live, but if it's winter there, why are you deworming??


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

750 is a high count but I've seen higher. It represents the number of eggs seen in a given volume/sample.
Worst case scenario?- death but not likely if the horse is otherwise healthy. Worms will rob your horse of nutrients, can cause impactions, damage the intestional lining, stomach problems (like where bots latch on), dull coat, big belly with thin topline, generally failure to thrive as well as he would without worms.
Some horses are naturally high shedders or have less resistance to worms. You can't always tell by looking which horse that may be.
It was good you had him tested.
I require any new boarder to have testing & treatment done if indicated, before their horse comes here.


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

MoodIndigo said:


> Well I'm just wondering the reason for retesting only 2 weeks after giving the Panacur? Benzimidazoles (fenbendazole, I think, is what it says on the box) have an egg repression period of 4 weeks. Testing for effectiveness at 2 weeks won't give you an accurate egg count.
> 
> Also, I'm not sure where you live, but if it's winter there, why are you deworming??


She just got the horse. I think testing was a good idea.


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## franknbeans (Jun 7, 2007)

MoodIndigo said:


> Well I'm just wondering the reason for retesting only 2 weeks after giving the Panacur? Benzimidazoles (fenbendazole, I think, is what it says on the box) have an egg repression period of 4 weeks. Testing for effectiveness at 2 weeks won't give you an accurate egg count.
> 
> *Also, I'm not sure where you live, but if it's winter there, why are you deworming??*


Because if a horse has a parasite issue it needs to be treated regardless of the time of year. The OP is doing this correctly. She is doing fecals and following a VETS advise.


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## Hawksnest Farm (Dec 31, 2011)

franknbeans said:


> Because if a horse has a parasite issue it needs to be treated regardless of the time of year. The OP is doing this correctly. She is doing fecals and following a VETS advise.


I am on Cape Cod and it's winter here, but like frank said...I need to get rid of these parasites. Oh, and I'm a "he" not a she lol


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

Hawksnest Farm said:


> I am on Cape Cod and it's winter here, but like frank said...I need to get rid of these parasites. Oh, and I'm a "he" not a she lol


Sorry about that.  There's a place on your profile page to indicate gender.


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## franknbeans (Jun 7, 2007)

Sorry. 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Hawksnest Farm (Dec 31, 2011)

franknbeans said:


> Sorry.
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Ha! Don't be


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## MoodIndigo (Oct 18, 2010)

My question still hasn't been addressed. Is there a reason for the vet to test 2 weeks after and not 4 like you're supposed to?


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## Hawksnest Farm (Dec 31, 2011)

MoodIndigo said:


> My question still hasn't been addressed. Is there a reason for the vet to test 2 weeks after and not 4 like you're supposed to?


No idea...sorry.


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## ScharmLily (Nov 23, 2009)

MoodIndigo said:


> My question still hasn't been addressed. Is there a reason for the vet to test 2 weeks after and not 4 like you're supposed to?


I just did a little research and found two veterinary sites (Mill Creek Veterinary Service and Salem Valley Vet) that say to test 2-4 weeks after deworming with any product.

It seems logical that in this situation, while the count may be _slightly_ lower after another two weeks, that the vet would want to test in two to determine if the dewormer is working. Obviously, with only a 50 egg reduction, it is not. So, because this is a high-risk situation, waiting those two weeks would just delay treatment, putting the horse at further risk.

Hope this helps!


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## Hawksnest Farm (Dec 31, 2011)

Ok, next question. My gelding does not like being wormed one bit. He lifts his head, backs away, just does not want that tube anywhere near him. I have been giving him applesauce from an empty wormer and trying to get him used to this being in his mouth...he is still being difficult, but I haven't given up. I really need him to take in the full dose of wormer to clean him out so I don't want to risk him only taking half of it and throwing his head and spitting out the other half.

Can I add half a tube of this wormer to a handful of sweetfeed and give it to him that way? I'm sure he will eat it but will it still be effective?


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## Northernstar (Jul 23, 2011)

My mare is extremely healthy, (so grateful!), and when I became her owner, I thought I was doing the right thing by rotating wormers - one every two months (this was starting in April), and a different one each time to "cover all bases" so I was told by many.
When I moved her to a different stable before bringing her home, I had the vet in that area come to float her teeth. I mentioned I was bringing her home soon, and we got on the topic of wormers. He said so many people do the "rotating" thing, but he highly recommended a fecal egg count after I take her home.
I did just that, and come to find out her count was really high, even though she was super healthy - he had me give her Quest, then did another count 2 wks. later, and it worked really well! Unfortunately, Quest is probably the nastiest tasting, but worth it in the long run. Good luck!


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

Hawksnest Farm said:


> Ok, next question. My gelding does not like being wormed one bit. He lifts his head, backs away, just does not want that tube anywhere near him. I have been giving him applesauce from an empty wormer and trying to get him used to this being in his mouth...he is still being difficult, but I haven't given up. I really need him to take in the full dose of wormer to clean him out so I don't want to risk him only taking half of it and throwing his head and spitting out the other half.
> 
> Can I add half a tube of this wormer to a handful of sweetfeed and give it to him that way? I'm sure he will eat it but will it still be effective?


http://www.amazon.com/Grooma-444-EASY-WORMER-DRENCH/product-reviews/B001E2N2BM









I use this on the tough ones. It keeps everyone happy.


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## Skyseternalangel (Jul 23, 2011)

I don't think you should mix wormer and food..... 

Either get that contraption you were linked or practice just sticking your finger in his mouth and give him a cookie or a handful of grain after. Then try it with the wormer but wait to give him the grain until around 10-15 minutes after (so they can't use it to spit up the wormer) 

It's about getting in and getting out!


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## dee (Jul 30, 2009)

My bunch hate worming, and because they are currently in a small sacrifice lot while we are rehabbing our overgrown pasture, we try to really stay on top of the worm situation. We take a couple of random samples to the vet every month. So far, the count has been relatively low, and we only worm when he tells us it's necessary. We've learned to just get the tube in the mouth, squirt, lift the head and let go. My filly is so good about it now that we don't even have to halter her. 

The horses get used to it, eventually.


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## Hawksnest Farm (Dec 31, 2011)

Ha! If only I could get the tube in his mouth! I just got that wormer bit so I will try that. I'll let you know how it goes  thanks everyone for all your advice
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

Hawkesnest, I've had good luck deworming a very difficult horse with alfalfa cubes which he loves. I break them up into about 1/4" thin wafers and add a little dewormer and down it goes. It takes about 10 before it's all in him, but no fight. It may not work with your horse so try a small dab on the first one and see how it goes. If he won't eat it then you've lost very little. That was two years ago and he's greedy to eat the cubes. They are all my horses get for treats and always want more.


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## FlyGap (Sep 25, 2011)

Quest will work great, I had wormed mine three weeks before the vet came to do a check and they were still counting high. Dosed them with quest and all's well. Do make sure the vet does another check, could be they need another round.
As for the actual worming, if they tie well, tie them, stick it in the corner of their mouth between their teeth, inject, then lift their head so they will swallow. If he doesn't, loop the lead through a ring or around a post and have someone hold the end while you work on the worming. Mostly he'll throw his head up a bit, have friend pull it down once he lowers it back and be ready to slip it in. You don't have to insert it fully in his mouth, just aim for the corner over his tounge being careful not to jab his palate. Practice holding the paste with one hand, palm on the bottom of the syringe, top two fingers on the base of the paste. I'm quick as lightening! Have small hands, but I make it work!
I had a pony that would rear, thankfully I could hold her and reach her head to get it in. Goober horse. I'd just start doing it the right way now instead of using an aid. He'll get used to it.


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

Hawksnest Farm said:


> Ha! If only I could get the tube in his mouth! I just got that wormer bit so I will try that. I'll let you know how it goes  thanks everyone for all your advice
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


Be sure to follow the directions to the letter, especially where to hold it.

One of by boarders has a 16.2 hand Saddlebred & I'm 5'4". He lowers his head for bridling & haltering but for deworming all he has to do is lift his head & I cannot reach even his chin. The deworming bridle has saved us both a lot of irritation.


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## FlyGap (Sep 25, 2011)

Yes^
When I said "You don't have to insert it fully in his mouth" I was talking about not having to cram it in the back of his throat. The whole tube has to be in his mouth directed towards his throat. I've seen a lot of people think it has to be crammed in deep, when really you only have to shoot it on top of their tounge towards the back. I'm sure you've probably wormed a few!


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## Skyseternalangel (Jul 23, 2011)

natisha said:


> He lowers his head for bridling & haltering but for deworming all he has to do is lift his head & I cannot reach even his chin. The deworming bridle has saved us both a lot of irritation.


Hahaha oh my horse tries the same. It worked in the past, but I have long arms and a knack for being on my tippy toes :lol:



> I've had good luck deworming a very difficult horse with alfalfa cubes which he loves.


I'm curious... I've noticed that you do have to wait awhile to give them any kind of treat (and I used alfalfa cubes) (well least all the horses I have wormed) they make these rotten-cheese faces like "Uhh..... what... my tongue... yuuuuck... what, is this supposed to be a treat???" and either drop it out of their mouths or they upchuck the wormer along with the treat.

I'm glad my boy just takes it like a man


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## Hawksnest Farm (Dec 31, 2011)

natisha said:


> http://www.amazon.com/Grooma-444-EASY-WORMER-DRENCH/product-reviews/B001E2N2BM
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I ended up using this wormer bit tonight on him, thanks Natisha. It worked really well, he is a difficult one to worm and this made it so much easier! I'll post the results of the fecal in a couple weeks. Keep your fingers crossed


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

Hawksnest Farm said:


> I ended up using this wormer bit tonight on him, thanks Natisha. It worked really well, he is a difficult one to worm and this made it so much easier! I'll post the results of the fecal in a couple weeks. Keep your fingers crossed


You're welcome  I'm glad you & he liked it.


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## Hawksnest Farm (Dec 31, 2011)

Just wanted to follow this thread up with the results of the fecal after the quest plus and the worming bit...the vet called today, two weeks after the quest plus dose...good news the worm count was zero! Thank god...thank you everyone for all your advice.


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## Northernstar (Jul 23, 2011)

Excellent news, Hawksnest!! Glad to hear it!


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

Hawksnest Farm said:


> Just wanted to follow this thread up with the results of the fecal after the quest plus and the worming bit...the vet called today, two weeks after the quest plus dose...good news the worm count was zero! Thank god...thank you everyone for all your advice.


That's great news. Thanks for the update.


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