# Horse stops and wont go on



## Salila (Jun 9, 2010)

If I paint a picture of my riding area, real fast, it will help you understand what I'm talking about. So I have my front yard, which is a large square, a hayfield to the right (if you are standing in the yard looking towards the road) and to the left is a wooded area, across the yard is a corn/bean field. 

My gelding is wonderful if we stay in the yard or go in the woods. He's wonderful in the corn field. He's wonderful if we turn right on the road. If we turn left, though, he refuses to go past the drive way. I think it's because he's started to associate that direction with long rides. When we reach the drive way, this is what happens: Part one: He just stops. He won't move at all. When I give the walk signal with my seat, progressing into squeezing, nudging, tapping with the riding crop, or "kissing" at him, we move in to Part two: horse becomes stuck in reverse. All of a sudden, instead of walking forward, he is (rather calmly) walking backwards and trying to turn around at the same time. He is not acting scared, just like "sigh, I don't want to go there, lets gooo... THAT way!" 

There are a few other areas like this one, one way down the road to the right, a corner, that he refuses to go around, and another to the left at the bottom of a big hill that we go around.

Anyways, it's a regular battle and can take me 10-20 minutes of keeping him aimed to the left end of the road and lots of urging before he finally gives up and moves on, with occasional stops to argue. Once we get to the neighbors pond, he gives up until we reach the hill and tries it again, though that one usually only takes about 5 minutes. 

So what I've been trying to do is getting him a short ways down the road to the left and waiting until he's given up on fighting it, and once he stops arguing about it, and walks on calmly, I end the ride and hop off, so that he can expect that it's not an entirely horrible place to go, if work ends there. 

I don't want to have to end my rides out there all the time though. That probably would not be a great habit to set.

Is there a better way to handle this?


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## Joe4d (Sep 1, 2011)

can you say SPURS ? 
You have a barn sour horse, search, "barn sour" lots of threads on this.
All come down to either making him go or letting him go home then working his butt off on the ground, then ride out again. Any time he turns to try to head home I would let him. Soon as I got home I'd run him till his tounge was hanging out. He'll figure out it is easier to go your way.
First I would just try circles, if he turns Id keep is nose in his butt till his body is facing the right way then release, any time he tried the turn around Id repeat, spin him around a couple times, Horses generally dont like smelling their own butt so usually this will solve mild cases.


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## Palomine (Oct 30, 2010)

Sadly, what you have been doing in persisting until he will go a little ways and then turning him home and ending ride, is just reinforcing this, as he doesn't equate "oh I took two steps and get to go home, so this isn't all bad" as much as he does "I won, hahahahaha."

He must be made to go ahead and work, and walk on where you want him to go, instead of cutting ride short, because he did a few steps more or less.

And when he starts the backing? Turn him and make him back into the direction you wanted to go in the first place.

But don't give in to him, or trust me, he WILL begin to not want to go any direction at all. That is coming. And probably soon.

Horses do not think "9 out of 10 times when I have had to be ridden, I didn't get ridden, just caught and petted and turned loose. So I imagine this is another one of those 9 times." 

Instead they bank on averages, and bank low at that. "1 time out of the last 2000 times this fool was out here, I was ridden. Well, not going to be 2nd time for sure."

When this horse balks, either be prepared to sit it out, keeping horse facing direction you want to go, and sit quietly, no talking or babying him. And don't drink a lot either before hand. Also no fooling around with friends, cell. Your mind needs to be clear and fairly empty, not worried about anything. Just sit there. Every 10 minutes or so, give horse cue to move off, if horse takes a step do not praise or pat, just ride. Patting/praising breaks horses momentum, and that you do not want. 

If horse tries to spin around, turn back to correct direction and go back to sitting. This may take 30 minutes or even more. That is why it is important for horse to feel like the sitting is your idea, not his.

Also, be sure there is no other area he is challenging your leadership, feeding/leading or what have you too.

But don't give in if he only does a little of what you are wanting. You are teaching him to keep at this when you do that.


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## GotaDunQH (Feb 13, 2011)

^ this.....and no spurs (as suggested) but a nice dressage whip, used at your leg when you ask for forward.


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## GotaDunQH (Feb 13, 2011)

Salila said:


> If I paint a picture of my riding area, real fast, it will help you understand what I'm talking about. So I have my front yard, which is a large square, a hayfield to the right (if you are standing in the yard looking towards the road) and to the left is a wooded area, across the yard is a corn/bean field.
> 
> My gelding is wonderful if we stay in the yard or go in the woods. He's wonderful in the corn field. He's wonderful if we turn right on the road. *If we turn left, though, he refuses to go past the drive way. I think it's because he's started to associate that direction with long rides. When we reach the drive way, this is what happens: Part one: He just stops. He won't move at all. When I give the walk signal with my seat, progressing into squeezing, nudging, tapping with the riding crop, or "kissing" at him, we move in to Part two: horse becomes stuck in reverse. All of a sudden, instead of walking forward, he is (rather calmly) walking backwards and trying to turn around at the same time. He is not acting scared, just like "sigh, I don't want to go there, lets gooo... THAT way!" *
> 
> ...


Ok...all the stuff you are doing (and I'm not knocking you) to get him to go forward where you want....is just child's play to him, he is not taking it seriously. So, like I said in my previous post...nix that crop. Tapping it means nothing to him...it's like a pesky fly. Take a dressage whip with you and use it at your leg. If he balks and does not go forward, ask with your leg and voice....and if he does not go forward...he needs a decisive spank with that dressage whip. I don't mean you beat him with it, but a hard spank at your leg WHILE you are asking for forward with leg. Basically, this horse has your number and does not think you are going to do anything other than what you have been...which does not work. it's time for a wake up call.


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## Salila (Jun 9, 2010)

Thank you for all the replies. I don't have a lot of experience with riding and so prefer not to use spurs as I don't want to use them incorrectly and cause an injury. 

Palomine: We do a lot of sitting. And a lot of turning circles when he decides to go the other way. I didn't think of asking him to back in the direction that I want to go, though. I will certainly give that a try (if there are no cars coming up the road.)

He does not have a problem with leading or anything else, (yet) so this is something I really want to give the boot before it gets any worse. 

GotaDunQH: I do have a dressage whip and try carrying that on my next ride.


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## GotaDunQH (Feb 13, 2011)

Salila said:


> Thank you for all the replies. I don't have a lot of experience with riding and so prefer not to use spurs as I don't want to use them incorrectly and cause an injury.
> 
> Palomine: We do a lot of sitting. And a lot of turning circles when he decides to go the other way. I didn't think of asking him to back in the direction that I want to go, though. I will certainly give that a try (if there are no cars coming up the road.)
> 
> ...


Question...do you have an arena you work in? Or do you always ride on trails etc. Reason I ask is...you need to work on getting him to listen to you consistently, no matter where you are. As in going down the trail OR schooling in the arena. I suggest you start by schooling in the arena with the dressage whip, then end by going down the trail. Let him get a feel of that dressage whip at your leg in a more controlled environment first, before using it in an open space. See what Im saying? If you go out to ride a trail and use it (in the way you should) he may shoot forward on you, so be ready. And he SHOULD respond immediately as that is the objective, for him to be more responsive when you ask him for something.


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## Salila (Jun 9, 2010)

No, I wish I had an arena to work him in, but I don't. I also do not have a trailer to take him to the barn I take my lessons at (dressage lessons, at that!) but my instructor has offered to come out to give me lessons on my own horse after I have progressed a little further. (We are still working on my balance bareback.)


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## Joe4d (Sep 1, 2011)

GotaDunQH said:


> ^ this.....and no spurs (as suggested) but a nice dressage whip, used at your leg when you ask for forward.


No spurs but a whip is ok? whats the difference? they are both tools used to magnify your leg cues. I guarantee that horse will start moving way before you cause injury. Read a bit on how to use them. You dont walk up out of the blue and run them through, neither do all spurs even have sharp areas.


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## Chiilaa (Aug 12, 2010)

Joe I think the no spurs thing is because it is easier to get used to a whip. I know that my lower leg is not still enough for me to use spurs effectively, but I can still take a crop and use that fine.


OP - Don't just tap him with the crop. Put the fear into him. If he stops, ask him to walk on with a squeeze of the legs. If he doesn't move off that, ask with a kick. If that doesn't work, gather a handful of mane, and apply the crop in a way that should make him jump forward (hence the handful of mane lol). Not just a tap that he can ignore. I mean a really good whack. You won't break his bones with a crop, so don't worry about that. Refusing to listen to your leg is an issue that you need to fix, and this is one of the more effective ways to do it.


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## herdbound (Aug 30, 2010)

Salila Gota has pointed you in the exact direction you need to go. Right now I see you and your horse in a small bickering match...back and forth...you just kinda are trying to not rock the boat and maintain peace and control. Unfortunately you ARE creating more problems for yourself down the road. Your horse is kinda saying "ok I am letting you ride me as long as we go where I want to go and go at the pace I want to go"...NOPE...you need to be in control. Because control is what is going to keep you safe in an "unsafe" situation should one arise. People often think of this behavior in a horse, and especially a beginner will tolerate it...BUT in the future your horse may NEED to listen to you. Say he spooks or something comes up and he just refuses to stop or runs you into danger. A horse that is taught to obey his rider at ALL times, not just when he feels like it is sooooo much safer to ride. Safer for himself and safer for you. Nip this problem in the bud. One good sharp correction WILL get him moving and you will be amazed at how simple it is....and how much more enjoyable it is to not have to bicker it out for lengthy periods of time.


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## herdbound (Aug 30, 2010)

Joe4d if this girl is a beginner and her horse isn't used to spurs its a good way to get her hurt too. I know horses that the first time someone puts the spurs to them break off in a buck.


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## blackdieselpony (Feb 26, 2012)

Im having this SAME issue! Going down the drive way he just stops and backs. So today I decided to turn his butt in the direction I wanted to go and backed him until he figured out going forward is easier. It worked once he moved nicely backwards and was giving to the bit I turned him around and problem solved he marched forward! 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Salila (Jun 9, 2010)

Herdbound: Thank you for point that out about the spurs. I do have a pair, but I've never used them and personally don't think they should actually be necessary to 'force.' Using them properly as an aid is one thing, but using them to force obedience is out of the question, and very dangerous. 

I will keep all of your tips in mind, however, short of the spurs.


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## herdbound (Aug 30, 2010)

Salila said:


> Herdbound: Thank you for point that out about the spurs. I do have a pair, but I've never used them and personally don't think they should actually be necessary to 'force.' Using them properly as an aid is one thing, but using them to force obedience is out of the question, and very dangerous.
> 
> I will keep all of your tips in mind, however, short of the spurs.


Spurs aren't bad...they are an aid just like a crop and when used correctly can be a nice thing to have BUT a horse that has never been spurred sometimes will react to it akin to being stung like a bee is done incorrectly. Not always BUT sometimes it is objected too. The only problem I have with spurs is when people overuse them or use them incorrectly and make a horses sides "dead" just like they can ruin a horses mouth and make it hard. You want to be able to squeeze a horse to make it go...if you squeeze and get no response a nice whap with the crop imediately after disobedience will get the horse ready to move out on the squeeze because he won't want the whap. Consistancy is the key.


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## Joe4d (Sep 1, 2011)

I am seeing a bunch of illogical hypocritical statements.
So no horse smacked with a crop ever takes off ? Even when putting "the fear of god" into them with a whip/crop ?
Every other tool needs training but spurs are impossible to learn ?
Spurs put on your feet then forgotten about until they are needed with a simple inward twist of the knee and using the same motion you always use is a tremendously complicated task, yet adding a crop to your hand that you may need on and balancing that with reins is easy ?
I think some people have some logic problems and are allowing personal bias to cloud their judgement.
I know I have no problem getting my horse to go, and I'm not messing around with extra doo dads in my hands.
Using a crop takes more coordination and messing around not to mention occupying a hand that could be better used for hanging on in the event something goes wrong. Spurs are an effective too


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## Chiilaa (Aug 12, 2010)

Joe I am sorry if you mis-interpreted my intentions. I can use a crop when needed, and still don't have the leg control to effectively use spurs. Sure, my personal experience is going to colour my responses - I will suggest a crop well before I suggest spurs. 

In this case, the co-ordination required to use a crop is minimal. It's probably minimal co-ordination required to use spurs too. It is being used at a specific point in time at a specific location.


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## Golden Horse (Feb 20, 2010)

Joe4d said:


> I am seeing a bunch of illogical hypocritical statements.


Why? the decision of the OP not to use spurs is a very sensible one, a rider must have great control of their lower legs before they can safely use spurs.

When you carry a whip it is easy to just to carry and use when you need it, or you can decide to dump it if there is an issue, once you have spurs on you are stuck with them. The potential for disaster with an inexperienced person wearing spurs is just huge.


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## Missy May (Feb 18, 2012)

Well, my first thought would be spurs correctly used, but if you haven't used them before, I agree...skip that. I use to have a bay that did this, not at any particular spot, either. I always called it passive resistance. He could "turn it on" if you pushed him- so, yeah...it makes one hesitate. I would suck it up and get ready for the "fight"....pick a nearby point - 50 - 60 feet the direction he didn't want to go but I did, and focus on nothing but getting to "the point"... and "get it on". You will learn very quickly how much is bluff, what his other resistance will be, etc.,. When you get to the first point, pick another point, and repeat until he lines out.


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

On a horse like this, leave the spurs in the house/barn/vehicle. OP, I am glad you decided against trying to use them. Using spurs on a horse like this to try to force forward movement is a great way to get reared up on or bucked off. Plus, using spurs constantly on a horse just to get forward motion is a great way to get a sour horse that has a serious tail swishing problem. Your thinking is correct as well, spurs used properly don't add more force to your leg, they add _refinement_.

I agree with the general consensus about using the whip/crop with intention. I don't carry a whip/crop, but I do ride with western split reins and it is a fairly common practice for me to use the end of one rein as a whip (or on really stubborn/resistant horses, an over-under). You'll need to keep increasing the pressure on the forward cue until he actually takes a single step forward. The instant that he starts to move, release all pressure and sit calmly. A single step is enough at first. When he takes that one step, stop him (don't let him stop on his own, make sure you are the one that initiates the stop) and let him sit for just a minute and think. Then, ask for forward again and start all over. Then, you'll need to increase the increments that you want forward motion; 1 step, then 3 steps, then 5 steps, then 10 steps, then 20 steps, then 100 feet, then 100 yards.....you get the idea.


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## yourcolorfuladdiction (Feb 19, 2012)

Joe a crop will never be used unless needed, with an inexperienced rider spurs can be used unintentionally in the wrong situation. So it's best to stick to the crop until she's not still working on balance with her trainer and is confidant she can keep her leg still and won't accidentally spur her horse.


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## Prinella (Jul 12, 2011)

i think a dressage whip is the best way for you to go. I believe you're right in not wanting to use spurs because as you've said you are a novice rider. The man thing I see when a horse does something unexpected with a novice rider is the legs grip like crazy, adding spurs to that... well you can guess. 

if you can even fin a small area enclosed to work in Id start with getting go, stop, turn happening nicely in there the head out to the 'evil corner' you're going to ignore the corner and just ride through it, you find it helpful to sing. so if the horse stops your going to do what you would in the other area, leg then whip. 

see if that works


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## christopher (Feb 11, 2011)

also spurs are subject to how well the horse responds too the leg anyway, as they are the exact same thing with just a higher PSI.

spanking over the rump with a whip, rope, an open hand or the end of a rein is a lot easier for the horse to understand and thus safer and more practical for the rider.


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## Annnie31 (May 26, 2011)

The OP could try Motivators which are simply blunt rounded spurs with no point anywhere. They are a great tool for people who dont know how to use spurs and for horses who are not listening to leg cues and have never had spurs on them. If your horse isnt listening to you legs when you ask him to walk forward it wouldnt hurt to have some form of wake up call. Of course it is whatever you are more comfortable with. If you start your horse with blunt spurs or Motivators it is unlikely they will react badly. You ask gently first and apply a bit more pressure until they move forward. You dont just stick them anymore than you give a horse a huge whack with the whip. You ask, then apply more pressure until they do what you are asking.

Its what is comfortable for the rider that matters in the end. If you are afraid to use spurs then I wouldnt think it would be wise to use them.


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## Chiilaa (Aug 12, 2010)

The reason I don't think spurs are the best fit is that in this situation, it is a particular point in time and place. Spurs are good for a horse that is a bit leg dead. This horse isn't - he is deliberately misbehaving at one point every time.


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## Annnie31 (May 26, 2011)

I got that this horse goes everywhere she wants him to except accross the driveway so he is not dead sided and I agree with that. He is simply being stubborn and sometimes it is just as easy to use a Motivator as it is to use a whip. In this case it is more about a simple correction that the horse will remember. Less is better in every case. Spurs are not just for dead sided horses. 
In any case it would be up to the OP to decide, I just felt the Motivators are an excellent tool for exactly her situation.


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## herdbound (Aug 30, 2010)

Joe4d said:


> I am seeing a bunch of illogical hypocritical statements.
> So no horse smacked with a crop ever takes off ? Even when putting "the fear of god" into them with a whip/crop ?
> Every other tool needs training but spurs are impossible to learn ?
> Spurs put on your feet then forgotten about until they are needed with a simple inward twist of the knee and using the same motion you always use is a tremendously complicated task, yet adding a crop to your hand that you may need on and balancing that with reins is easy ?
> ...


No doubt Joe you are right on all accounts. But I bet you were taught with spurs and so you are really comfortable with them. A spur, a crop, all of these are riding and training aids that do have their places. I am just concerned that a beginner may use them incorrectly and get hurt. Are you familiar with the "drop the dragon" theory? Its where if a horse blows up because of a training aid you drop it to eliminate the fear. Say the crop in hand where to make her horse to antsy...then you drop the dragon and work on desensitizing it to the crop. You can't drop the spurs so easily. I use spurs when needed. And a lot of people use to spurs to fix a horse who won't budge. I don't care for that practice just because I don't want to have to kick a horse to make it move. But if she had more experience sure spurs would be good. My neighbor put the spurs to a horse who hadn't had them used and got his back broke.


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## Joe4d (Sep 1, 2011)

Actually I wasnt taught anything, just kinda picked it up as I went. I had a clover sour horse that would refuse to move, once he came to a clover patch, was a constant battle getting his head up, A crop would work but I wasnt much of a rider, and needing both hands on the reins, or one hand on the reins another on the saddle holding on didnt leave much room for a crop, Seriously I found it really hard to coordinate all the extra things to do, while me feet were just along for the ride. 
Although a much better rider now, my current horse had lots of fear issues, loved to rear spin and bolt , he generally didnt stop, but would spin the opposite direction, again using a crop for me was way more complicated. I went to spurs, that way both hands were free to keep his nose pointed the way I wanted and spurs gave a magnification to my leg cues and got the job done. I decent set of mild spurs take minutes to learn, and not much longer to desentsitize the horse from freaking out.
For whatever reason people seem to have an anti spur bias, people watching too many rodeo's and western movies and think all spurs are great big spikes, go to any online tack store and look at the english section for spurs.


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## Golden Horse (Feb 20, 2010)

I know exactly what spurs look like, both English and Western, I rode for 30 odd years without feeling the need to wear spurs, I only decided to use them in the end to finesse G Mans movement off of the leg as we started lateral work.

I don't know how many people are anti spur, I'm certainly not, but I am totally anti giving advice to use them to people over the internet. Given the question I would prefer to assume that the OP has never used spurs, and I just think it is dangerous to give advice like this online, it is a fact that ignorant (as in ill informed) use of spurs have a huge potential for inadvertent use, and therefore disaster.


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## franknbeans (Jun 7, 2007)

Joe4d said:


> Actually I wasnt taught anything, just kinda picked it up as I went. I had a clover sour horse that would refuse to move, once he came to a clover patch, was a constant battle getting his head up, A crop would work but I wasnt much of a rider, and needing both hands on the reins, or one hand on the reins another on the saddle holding on didnt leave much room for a crop, Seriously I found it really hard to coordinate all the extra things to do, while me feet were just along for the ride.
> Although a much better rider now, my current horse had lots of fear issues, loved to rear spin and bolt , he generally didnt stop, but would spin the opposite direction, again using a crop for me was way more complicated. I went to spurs, that way both hands were free to keep his nose pointed the way I wanted and spurs gave a magnification to my leg cues and got the job done. I decent set of mild spurs take minutes to learn, and not much longer to desentsitize the horse from freaking out.
> For whatever reason people seem to have an anti spur bias, people watching too many rodeo's and western movies and think all spurs are great big spikes, go to any online tack store and look at the english section for spurs.


Joe-I agree they can be easy to learn. However, if a horse spins, etc, it is also really easy for the horse to get poked in the side inadvertently, which can make a situation more dangerous.

I actually have a horse like I think the OP is describing. He has a stubborn streak, to say the least. WHen I was at the Parelli place, they said he was an LBI. Anyway-he will just stop. it is IMPOSSIBLE to make him move. He has now been at the reining trainers for over 4 months-he STILL stops when he gets confused. In his case, spurs are the answer, but it still takes patience, altho he is getting better. A crop makes the issue worse. Every horse is different. THe good news is that I have learned that my guy does this if he gets confused, primarily. So I now know that I need to take a step back when he tries this now, and see what I am not communicating clearly. I also have learned that no matter how upset he gets, he is never mean. So, OP, you will learn about your horse as your work through this. For example, I know that my guy will go up, but only about 6 inches as a threat. If you smack his butt, he will kick out. Really very predictable. As long as you keep the cue on, he WILL go forward. He will just test and make sure he HAS to from time to time. Just seems to be his personality. I know we will eventually work through it, as will you.:wink:

I have found that it is CRITICAL to end on a positive note every time. Never, ever get off when he is doing this. You HAVE to ride it out, work a little more, and help him learn that if he does it, and does it willingly and correct-THEN, and only then is he done. It does take a lot of patience with a horse like this. Mine takes great pride in P!$$ing me off, I think. SO-never let him win!


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## mls (Nov 28, 2006)

Joe4d said:


> So no horse smacked with a crop ever takes off ? Even when putting "the fear of god" into them with a whip/crop ?
> Every other tool needs training but spurs are impossible to learn ?
> Spurs put on your feet then forgotten about until they are needed with a simple inward twist of the knee and using the same motion you always use is a tremendously complicated task, yet adding a crop to your hand that you may need on and balancing that with reins is easy ?


Haven't worked with a lot of green people - have ya Joe?

A whip or crop can be dropped in the event the horse reacts adversely or if rider needs to use both hands. Spurs can end up making the situation worse as a green rider tends to dig in with their heels to stay on.

To correctly use spurs, you turn your ankle, not your knee. If you turn your knee you are taking your leg off the horse and changing your seat position and weight distribution.


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## Missy May (Feb 18, 2012)

Joe4d said:


> Actually I wasnt taught anything, just kinda picked it up as I went. I had a clover sour horse that would refuse to move, once he came to a clover patch, was a constant battle getting his head up, A crop would work but I wasnt much of a rider, and needing both hands on the reins, or one hand on the reins another on the saddle holding on didnt leave much room for a crop, Seriously I found it really hard to coordinate all the extra things to do, while me feet were just along for the ride.
> Although a much better rider now, my current horse had lots of fear issues, loved to rear spin and bolt , he generally didnt stop, but would spin the opposite direction, again using a crop for me was way more complicated. I went to spurs, that way both hands were free to keep his nose pointed the way I wanted and spurs gave a magnification to my leg cues and got the job done. I decent set of mild spurs take minutes to learn, and not much longer to desentsitize the horse from freaking out.
> For whatever reason people seem to have an anti spur bias, people watching too many rodeo's and western movies and think all spurs are great big spikes, go to any online tack store and look at the english section for spurs.


I don't really see a bias against spurs here - just a concern that she and the horse haven't been trained to them, yet. I use western spurs when appropriate w small dull rowels that easily "spin" as well as fit and stay on my boot. A rowel that spins can glide over the side, if used correctly. But, I have no bias against English spurs.  And I do think spurs in this instance would be a help...not a cure, AFTER she has trained both the horse and herself to the spur...not "learn as she goes".


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## bellagris (Dec 6, 2010)

I think there is a lot of great advice on here, my trainer has always said that when you ride out -especially alone, there is no negotiation you must go forwards. Don't turn back with a problem horse unless absolutely hnecessary, instead make a shorter loop but finish out the ride so that they realize that if they keep going forwards eventually they hit the point where they are heading back again while still going forwards. Change it up that way and make some of the rides shorter, is there a way you can do that way and cut through some trees or something to make a smaller loop? You have the right idea of making him go further and then showing him it isn't a bad thing, but rather than get off and walk him home...move him forwards and make a smaller loop showing him that if he keeps going forwards he will get home sooner. I have never tried letting the horse turn back and then working him myself, but I can see that working with a horse that just wont go forwards. I have always just made the loop smaller and then worked their 'bag' off when we get back if they were really bad. But if you can't get him to move forwards at all, I would see if working him until he is really tired helps.


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## franknbeans (Jun 7, 2007)

kstinson said:


> I think there is a lot of great advice on here, my trainer has always said that when you ride out -especially alone, there is no negotiation you must go forwards. Don't turn back with a problem horse unless absolutely hnecessary, instead make a shorter loop but finish out the ride so that they realize that if they keep going forwards eventually they hit the point where they are heading back again while still going forwards. Change it up that way and make some of the rides shorter, is there a way you can do that way and cut through some trees or something to make a smaller loop? You have the right idea of making him go further and then showing him it isn't a bad thing, but rather than get off and walk him home...move him forwards and make a smaller loop showing him that if he keeps going forwards he will get home sooner. I have never tried letting the horse turn back and then working him myself, but I can see that working with a horse that just wont go forwards. I have always just made the loop smaller and then worked their 'bag' off when we get back if they were really bad. But if you can't get him to move forwards at all, I would see if working him until he is really tired helps.


And if possible, vary the way you go home.


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