# Can Salt block be left out in weather, and few more questions



## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

just wanted to share a few things about today and buying some items. I bought the brown salt block and I'm wondering rather it can be rained on? I was thinking about putting it in the trough I was going to have in the stable yard. I saw my uncle have a nice trough thing he bought and says the horse doesnt waste any hay that way so I was going to put my hay in that trough as well when I hay him. 

Bought a horse blanket for $39 bucks from tractor supply. It wasn't the color I really wanted but it was nice and thick and heavy. I still think i can possibly find one at a feed and tack place for maybe 15-30 bucks. It I believe is 2 ply thick and the cushion is about at least 2 inches thick. How thick is thick enuff? 

Ended up buying the Neutrena safe choice and also a bag of Sweet Mix, which was $9.99 for 50 lbs. Alot of people were coming in buying it and most said they mix it with their other feed while one or 2 said they just feed the sweet mix. Some said with just feeding the sweet mix, it didnt totally keep the weight they wanted on the horse but that it was overall a very good feed but works better when mixed with another or better brand. Also bought a large roll of hay for 50 bucks. The guy said he had rolls for 40 bucks but that they werent fresh cut as the other ones and werent as green so i went with the 50 dollar bale. 

What other things will i need to make sure I have in my little tack area? When the flies are bad in the summer, whats best for the flies and will the repellents work for just hrs, days, or what? 

How many of you guys administer wormer yourselves? What all do you administer yourselves and what are absolute must to have a vet do? And how often?


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## Saddlehorse1978 (Jul 7, 2011)

Yes the block can be left out and you can just sit on the ground . 

$50 for hay is crazy high , find a new hay guy .

Yes most people do worm their horses their self . 

The TSC sweet mix , stay away , that feed is an all stock type and doesn't have what a horse needs , it is junk ...

A good fly spray is a musyt have , depends on the weather how often you need to apply . If hot and sweating alot or rainy it will need to be applied daily or every other day ( don't buy the BRONCO from TSC) buy a decent brand .


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

Hi,

Yes, salt licks can be left outside. Of course they will dissolve in water, but usually tend to last well enough in average rain. Don't know what your 'brown' salt lick is, but I'd ensure you get one specifically for horses, if it has other minerals in it and also avoid ones with grain &/or molasses in. I personally put out straight rock salt & provide their other minerals in a 'ration balancer' supp.

Re rugs, if the horse has access to shelter and has free movement - isn't cooped up in stall or pen - then they don't generally need a rug. Horses are actually evolved to be outside animals without rugs Heavy rugs can put too much pressure on skin deep muscles and cause atrophy, as can leaving a horse rugged for long periods. IMO if you're going to rug a horse, it should be as light as possible and should only be used on the coldest nights, out of season cold snaps, or after exercise on a cold day for eg, to allow the horse to cool/dry slowly. If you decide for some reason you want to rug your horse over the entire winter for eg, then a lighter rug is more important and you should budget for getting it off him for at least an hour a day and on any days that are warmer, so it doesn't become a 'sauna suit'!

Don't know about the Nutrena, but I'd avoid sweet feed, except as perhaps an occasional small treat - it's basically junk food for horses. Despite many traditional practices & ingredients, horses don't tend to do well on sweet, starchy feeds, so it's best to avoid grains & other high starch feeds. Your horse, if healthy & not in hard work, should be perfectly fine just on hay/pasture, plus whatever supp that is appropriate for his situation, to provide balanced nutrition. feedxl.com is a great resource for dietary/nutritional info. safergrass.org is a good resource for learning how diet(particularly starch/sugar) effects their health. If you are going to 'hard feed', it's important to feed little & often & avoid large &/or infrequent meals. Horses have evolved as 'trickle feeders' and need a tiny but constant amount of feed going through their digestive systems.

Re hay, if it's fresh & green it's likely got more nutrients in it, but green or brown, hay doesn't lose sugar content over time, and is also likely still deficient/imbalanced in many nutrients, so I personally tend to give precedence to low-NSC level hays(generally native, not 'improved') rather than colour. Of course, a nice fresh, green native hay would be best!

What else should you have in your tack area?? Where should I stop?? Disinfectant, manuka honey, bandages & other stuff for first aid & treating infections or wounds. A hoof rasp, and if you're going to have your horse shod, shoe pullers, for those emergencies where you need to pull the shoe pronto. A soaking boot, perhaps fly veil/mask, bucket & sponge, brushes.... oh and zinc cream or such for a horse with pink skin, to prevent sunburn.

Sounds like you have lots of research to do. In addition to links given, I'd get yourself some good horse-keeping books & look at some horse sites online which have info on management. Of course, as you'll read in my signature link post, you'll get many differing opinions on whatever subject, so it's just a case of educating yourself the best you can, learning all the pros & cons of various specifics and coming to your own decisions.

Oh, fly spray - I don't tend to bother with it much, except if I'm training or trimming a horse & the flies are distracting, but when I do I just use Tea Tree oil or Eucalyptus in water or such. Non toxic, non irritating. Doesn't last that long, but don't need it to. Spose it depends what the flies are like in your parts, too!


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

loosie said:


> Hi,
> 
> Yes, salt licks can be left outside. Of course they will dissolve in water, but usually tend to last well enough in average rain. Don't know what your 'brown' salt lick is, but I'd ensure you get one specifically for horses, if it has other minerals in it and also avoid ones with grain &/or molasses in. I personally put out straight rock salt & provide their other minerals in a 'ration balancer' supp.
> 
> ...


 I should have been more specific. I was talking about the saddle blanket


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## LetAGrlShowU (Mar 25, 2009)

Safechoice is a great feed, but why the mix of sweet feed? Sweet feed is crap, IMO and safechoice is a good quality feed ,so there is no need to mix it. Hay, i'm assuming you got a big round bale, i dont know what those run, as i get 60 lb sqaure bales for around $15/bale. 

And please ask what your horse was eating before. You can not just switch a horse to a new feed without doing it slowly. IE 1/3 or less of a scoop of the new stuff, mixed with his regular portioned original feed. Then a little more the next day and so forth until he's completely onto the new feed. This is not something to be taken lightly.

Saddle pads- craigslist, ebay, etc are cheapest.

For fly spray I use ultrashield or horse&pony spray, but i am not impressed with either. For fly control around the tack room- i use the (cant think of the name) a bag you fill with water and it attracts the flies so they fly in and cant get back out. 

Its important to have first aid equipment- ointment for small scapes, bandages, and so forth. A fly mask if flies are bad, brushes, shampoos, conditioners, are all part of a well stocked tack room.

Please feel free to ask as many questions as possible, so we can help you along the way. You sound inexperienced, which is fine, but do you have someone experienced at home who is knowledgeable to help you along the way?


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

LetAGrlShowU said:


> Hay, i'm assuming you got a big round bale, i dont know what those run, as i get 60 lb sqaure bales for around $15/bale.


Sorry, off topic but I'm shocked at how much hay costs for you. Those same size bales here are about $3, less in the Northern part of the State.

To the OP. Yes, get help from someone you know, someone who's horses look like you'd like yours to look.


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## LetAGrlShowU (Mar 25, 2009)

natisha said:


> Sorry, off topic but I'm shocked at how much hay costs for you. Those same size bales here are about $3, less in the Northern part of the State.
> 
> To the OP. Yes, get help from someone you know, someone who's horses look like you'd like yours to look.


What do you feed? I feed either orchard/alfalfa or timothy/alfalfa. Even fescue here runs $6.50 but i dont feed that.


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

LetAGrlShowU said:


> What do you feed? I feed either orchard/alfalfa or timothy/alfalfa. Even fescue here runs $6.50 but i dont feed that.


I feed alfalfa/timothy mix. Never first cutting.


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## Allison Finch (Oct 21, 2009)

Hat can sure be high in some places. In the early eighties, I went to St. Thomas in the Virgin Islands to do a three day clinic and Pony Club testing. At that time they were paying 25.00 a bale for good hay. Of course, they had to ship it from the states.

Salt can be left out and it will erode a little from rain, but still last a good while. One thing I noticed in our area, the salt soaks into the ground and will become a "salt lick" for deer. They will dig and eat the dirt, if the block is gone. So, make sure you use the same spot and always keep a block there. Otherwise, you may end up with a PIT if you have lots of deer.


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

Also, what about putting anything in the water to prevent bugs and different things from laying eggs in there? I know growing up some would put iodine or bleach in the dogs water to keep it fresh and clean.


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## natisha (Jan 11, 2011)

nyg052003 said:


> Also, what about putting anything in the water to prevent bugs and different things from laying eggs in there? I know growing up some would put iodine or bleach in the dogs water to keep it fresh and clean.


Dump frequently, scrub, refill is your best bet.


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## mysticalhorse (Apr 27, 2011)

I put my mineral (brown) salt block on a steping stone to keep it out of the dirt and allow drainage when raining.

I change their water every 2 days and have a scrub brush just for getting the muck out.

If you got a round bale then you need to get your horse vaccinated for botalism ( misspelled) but otherwise it will work. Careful with the sweet feed & on switching to a new feed.

Find a feed store near you, they usually are willing to answer questions that someone at TSC wouldnt know.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

LetAGrlShowU said:


> Safechoice is a great feed, but why the mix of sweet feed? Sweet feed is crap, IMO and safechoice is a good quality feed ,so there is no need to mix it. Hay, i'm assuming you got a big round bale, i dont know what those run, as i get 60 lb sqaure bales for around $15/bale.
> 
> And please ask what your horse was eating before. You can not just switch a horse to a new feed without doing it slowly. IE 1/3 or less of a scoop of the new stuff, mixed with his regular portioned original feed. Then a little more the next day and so forth until he's completely onto the new feed. This is not something to be taken lightly.
> 
> ...


 people i've been talking to locally say they sell their square bales for bout 5 bucks and yes i bought a big round bale. he said it weights bout 8-900 lbs. Yes I am getting some feed from the guy to mix with mine before full transition. My dad as well as uncles know a good bit. My uncle actually has a few. Plus have alot of people I know thats very knowledgable. Just like to get peoples opinion i don't know as well lol


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

Allison Finch said:


> Hat can sure be high in some places. In the early eighties, I went to St. Thomas in the Virgin Islands to do a three day clinic and Pony Club testing. At that time they were paying 25.00 a bale for good hay. Of course, they had to ship it from the states.
> 
> Salt can be left out and it will erode a little from rain, but still last a good while. One thing I noticed in our area, the salt soaks into the ground and will become a "salt lick" for deer. They will dig and eat the dirt, if the block is gone. So, make sure you use the same spot and always keep a block there. Otherwise, you may end up with a PIT if you have lots of deer.


 i was going to keep it in this trough like thing i have thats about 2 ft X 4 or 5 and also will throw the hay in there instead of the ground. I'm guessing though with one horse, the sale won't " Go bad " or anything before he uses it all up?


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

mysticalhorse said:


> I put my mineral (brown) salt block on a steping stone to keep it out of the dirt and allow drainage when raining.
> 
> I change their water every 2 days and have a scrub brush just for getting the muck out.
> 
> ...


Can i administer that vaccination myself and how often? I have always vaccinated my pups and dogs


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

also what kind of wormer and is once a month fine? Anyone heard of putting a little used meat cooking grease in the food every so often helps keep the coat shiny? Maybe an old wise tale as i'm sure if your food is good enuff it will do that


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## LetAGrlShowU (Mar 25, 2009)

wormer needs to be rotated, there are different kinds and usually administered every 8 weeks. Dose according to weight.


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

LetAGrlShowU said:


> wormer needs to be rotated, there are different kinds and usually administered every 8 weeks. Dose according to weight.


 so i'm guessing according to the various types of worms? Fill me in please because I am planning on writing up some type of schedule so i can actually keep track of those things


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## kitten_Val (Apr 25, 2007)

I used to keep salt blocks by water bucket, but they dissolved rather quickly when we had rains. Now I keep it in rubber bucket in corner of the shed. No rain, and it lasts much longer.


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## kitten_Val (Apr 25, 2007)

nyg052003 said:


> so i'm guessing according to the various types of worms? Fill me in please because I am planning on writing up some type of schedule so i can actually keep track of those things


The BEST way to go is to do the fecal count (by vet or send it to the lab directly). IF your horse doesn't have any worms you can deworm it 2-3 times/year only (with at least 1 time by something against tape worms, like Zimmectin Gold or Equimax). If there are parasites out there you want to go every 2 months (which used to be a usual advice), and in this case would make sense again to talk to the vet whats the best schedule/dewormers for the area. Unfortunately, worms build up a resistance to the dewormer, so if you deworm often it may become quite useless.


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## LetAGrlShowU (Mar 25, 2009)

I'm not well versed on worming, but if you go to TSC you can look in their glass case- they have it broken into different types of worms/seasons. Most of them say only in spring and winter, but i worm more often than that, and most good horse owners do too.


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## kitten_Val (Apr 25, 2007)

LetAGrlShowU said:


> but i worm more often than that, and most good horse owners do too.


I'm sorry, but I strongly disagree. Many good owners do fecal exam first and then worm based on the results.


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## LetAGrlShowU (Mar 25, 2009)

Kitten, i am not aruging with you. I had actually posted before i saw your response. It was in no way directed at you. I'm mainly going off of things I see out here in the boonies. 
But i have been reading up on the fact that every 8 weeks may not always be the best route and some old practices are being reconsidered.


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

LetAGrlShowU said:


> And please ask what your horse was eating before. You can not just switch a horse to a new feed without doing it slowly. IE 1/3 or less of a scoop of the new stuff, mixed with his regular portioned original feed. Then a little more the next day and so forth until he's completely onto the new feed. This is not something to be taken lightly.


I know this is a generally held 'rule' but I'm not so sure of it's importance(if anyone knows of any studies...?). I used to buy horses from the auctions, where it was common not to have any info on their backgrounds, let alone diet. I used to stress a bit about 'what ifs' of changing feed suddenly, but nothing ever happened. Then with learning more about equine digestion & diet, I have taken on horses fed all kinds of crap & wouldn't dream of continuing to feed it, especially if they're foundered or such. Again, no bad repercussions. Understanding basically how a horse's digestive system works, I do think it's important to *introduce* new feeds gradually, but I can't see any good reason to continue feeding old feeds for the sake of gradual change. Be interested to hear other's opinions/info on that?

Saddle pads- They are basically there to keep your saddle clean. Some padding doesn't generally hurt, and studies by Balance International have indicated horses prefer sheepskin against their skin - gives a more fluid feel. You can of course get all manner of special pads, designed to change fit of badly suited saddles, etc, but basically a saddle should fit with or without a pad, period. So whatever pad is used should not be too thick as to cause the saddle to squeeze the horse, etc.


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

loosie said:


> I know this is a generally held 'rule' but I'm not so sure of it's importance(if anyone knows of any studies...?). I used to buy horses from the auctions, where it was common not to have any info on their backgrounds, let alone diet. I used to stress a bit about 'what ifs' of changing feed suddenly, but nothing ever happened. Then with learning more about equine digestion & diet, I have taken on horses fed all kinds of crap & wouldn't dream of continuing to feed it, especially if they're foundered or such. Again, no bad repercussions. Understanding basically how a horse's digestive system works, I do think it's important to *introduce* new feeds gradually, but I can't see any good reason to continue feeding old feeds for the sake of gradual change. Be interested to hear other's opinions/info on that?
> 
> Saddle pads- They are basically there to keep your saddle clean. Some padding doesn't generally hurt, and studies by Balance International have indicated horses prefer sheepskin against their skin - gives a more fluid feel. You can of course get all manner of special pads, designed to change fit of badly suited saddles, etc, but basically a saddle should fit with or without a pad, period. So whatever pad is used should not be too thick as to cause the saddle to squeeze the horse, etc.


what about too thin of a blanket though. I saw some in TSC and a customer in their says those mostly she has seen some people use like under the blanket or something. That one didnt have any padding, was more like just a blanket.


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

nyg052003 said:


> what about too thin of a blanket though. I saw some in TSC and a customer in their says those mostly she has seen some people use like under the blanket or something. That one didnt have any padding, was more like just a blanket.


If you have a well fitting, comfortable saddle, a towel should do underneath it. Tho as I said, according to BI's study, horses tend to prefer sheepskin, so that's what I use, fleecy side down. You cannot make a badly fitting saddle fit with a thicker pad - in fact it can make it tighter & more uncomfortable. The thicker the pad, the more unstable the saddle can become too. You can get special 'riser' pads, 'shims' & the likes, to change fit, but you've got to be careful these don't make matters worse, as in above, and IMO they are more like an interim measure - say short term until you get a new saddle or such.

I'm no saddle fitting expert tho, just done a fair bit of research into it after having 'hard to fit' horses & wasting money on 'professional saddle fitters' who were getting paid way more $$ than the sense they had in the subject! I found Balance International to be one very helpful mob & their website has heaps of info, to learn more.


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## Alwaysbehind (Jul 10, 2009)

nyg052003 said:


> Also, what about putting anything in the water to prevent bugs and different things from laying eggs in there? I know growing up some would put iodine or bleach in the dogs water to keep it fresh and clean.


I can not imagine putting iodine in your dogs drinking water. Bleach will just dissipate in the sun to the point it is not doing anything unless you put in there in quantities that make the water not drinkable.

I agree with the scrub and refill theory. 
I have had good luck with gold fish too. They do make a bunch of fish yuck at the bottom of the trough but they do a marvelous job eating the mosquito larvae which means I do not have to dump my trough ever 3 days I can leave for a week or so (removing the fish and putting them back in when I clean).





kitten_Val said:


> The BEST way to go is to do the fecal count (by vet or send it to the lab directly). IF your horse doesn't have any worms you can deworm it 2-3 times/year only (with at least 1 time by something against tape worms, like Zimmectin Gold or Equimax). If there are parasites out there you want to go every 2 months (which used to be a usual advice), and in this case would make sense again to talk to the vet whats the best schedule/dewormers for the area. Unfortunately, worms build up a resistance to the dewormer, so if you deworm often it may become quite useless.





kitten_Val said:


> I'm sorry, but I strongly disagree. Many good owners do fecal exam first and then worm based on the results.


I have to agree with Kitten on this.

Vaccines, what is required, how often it is given, etc is an area specific question (just like deworming is). You need to discuss with your vet what they suggest for your area.


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## WalkerLady (Jul 22, 2010)

I wouldn't put bleach or iodine in my horses' water. We're on city water so it's already chlorinated and it still gets green in 2 days in hot weather. I scrub and refill every 2 days in summer, less in cooler weather.

I've never heard of adding used meat grease to a horse's food for any reason and I wouldn't do that either, I'd be worried about colic. I have used clean canola oil in horse's feed for weight gain. I think a shiny coat has more to do with good nutrition, although getting enough fat is part of good nutrition.

For flies, I keep feed in fly-proof containers and hang fly strips in the feed area. I don't use much spray on my horses, just for riding and the farrier, but it depends on how sensitive your horse is to flies and their bites. Some horses need a lot more protection than others. Follow directions on the label initially, and in time you'll learn how little you can get away with using. There's pellets you can put in feed that kill the fly eggs in the manure, and there's also tiny bugs called fly predators that kill flies but don't bother horses or humans. I don't know much about either so you'd have to research it.

I use Neutrena Sr. for my older mare who's getting to be a hard keeper and I think it's good feed. Many younger, healthy horses don't need any grain at all, just good pasture/hay.


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## WalkerLady (Jul 22, 2010)

Currycomb, body brush, face brush, mane and tail comb, shampoo, detangler, hoof pick, fly mask (the kind with ears keeps gnats out of their ears), and sweat scraper.

Towels, rags, bandages, Vet Wrap, antibiotic ointment, latex gloves, scissors, tweezers, bot knife, liniment, syringes, a weight tape, thermometer and inexpensive stethoscope. Get a basic horse veterinary handbook and at the least learn to take your horse's temperature and heartbeat, and read up on what to watch for that may indicate colic.

I have always used Zimecterin Gold every 8-12 weeks for worming, but I've been doing research and am going to go with the fecal count method in the future. The parasites are developing resistance because of the overuse of broad-spectrum wormers.


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## WalkerLady (Jul 22, 2010)

I have a vet vaccinate once a year but I have a friend who does her own vaccinations. I've lived in the Northeast and Southeast and have always gone with the vet's recommendations. Here in GA, I'm told it's illegal for rabies vaccine to be administered by anyone other than a licensed vet. If you take your horse to a state park or places like that, or to a show, you'll need a Coggins certificate updated once a year. That has to be done by a vet.

One question, OP, I'm just curious, did you buy that roll of hay just for one horse? I think the $50 is reasonable, that's what I pay for an 800-900 lb. roll, but is your horse going to eat it all by himself?


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## dee (Jul 30, 2009)

We dump and refill every couple of days, and scrub the algae out as best we can. We've thought about keeping goldfish in the water trough, but I haven't gotten around to getting any.

As for the goldfish muck in the bottom of the trough, you can get a shortish bit of hose and siphon the bottom of the tank - this will remove the muck and allow for a good water change at the same time. Just make sure you don't suck up any goldfish!


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## Alwaysbehind (Jul 10, 2009)

dee said:


> As for the goldfish muck in the bottom of the trough, you can get a shortish bit of hose and siphon the bottom of the tank - this will remove the muck and allow for a good water change at the same time. Just make sure you don't suck up any goldfish!


That is exactly what I have been planning to do.

Just have not done it yet. Procrastination is a bad thing at times.

It is a 100 gallon trough so the horses do not seem to care one bit there is stuff at the bottom. I am sure it bothers me far more than it bothers them.


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## dee (Jul 30, 2009)

Ours is a 100 gallon trough, too. We had to quit using it for a while - had to have the horses drink out of the pond - not that it bothered them to do that - that water is clear and COLD because it's spring fed.

Our water pump on the well went out - that was NOT a fun experience, since daughter, her hubby and their five kids are staying with us because of the heat (they have no A/C). We got a new pump installed today, and my hubby is filling the water trough this afternoon. I'll stopp at Wallyworld on my way home and get some of those cheap feeder goldfish to put in the tank. 

Can't wait to see what the cats think of the goldfish!


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

Iodine in water & meat grease in feed???:shock: Nope, never heard of those practices before, but they don't sound right to me.... save perhaps if you're in a particularly iodine deficient area. Also, killing all bugs means killing the good ones too, so disinfecting everything under the sun may actually make you/your horse MORE likely to get sick. Antibodies are also another thing that comes to mind...


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## OTTBLover (Jun 23, 2011)

Apparently adding ACV to water troughs stop algae growing... 

I've never done this myself though, as I prefer my horses to have fresh, plain water. (Some horses wont drink water with anything added into it).

As said by previous posters, the dump, scrub, refill tactic is the best...


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

WalkerLady said:


> I have a vet vaccinate once a year but I have a friend who does her own vaccinations. I've lived in the Northeast and Southeast and have always gone with the vet's recommendations. Here in GA, I'm told it's illegal for rabies vaccine to be administered by anyone other than a licensed vet. If you take your horse to a state park or places like that, or to a show, you'll need a Coggins certificate updated once a year. That has to be done by a vet.
> 
> One question, OP, I'm just curious, did you buy that roll of hay just for one horse? I think the $50 is reasonable, that's what I pay for an 800-900 lb. roll, but is your horse going to eat it all by himself?


Yes one horse and I just take some off the roll and put in the large off the ground tray that I have so yes i wont have to get hay for awhile.


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## nyg052003 (Oct 11, 2010)

i have a 55 gallon plastic drum for water so i will keep an eye on it and see when it gets dirty and needs changing


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## loosie (Jun 19, 2008)

... or just have a dam & don't even think about it! ;-)


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## Susan Crumrine (Oct 5, 2009)

I keep my water trough in the run in, the algae doesnt grow as fast if its in the shade.
I dont want vinegar, bleach or iodine in my ice water, so I wouldnt do any of that. LOL.

To answer the question about feeding and switching feeds.
When I get a rescue horse, from the auction, I do not know what they eat either, as previously mentioned, I feed 1 to 1 1/3 of a cup of the feed I like twice a day to start with, with plenty of good grass hay, and lots of aforementioned clean water, and increase the amount gradually.
I have never had a problem. 
Congratulations on your new horse! Susan


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## Alwaysbehind (Jul 10, 2009)

dee said:


> Can't wait to see what the cats think of the goldfish!


My three cats drink out of the water trough. Yes they have a clean water bowl, I have no idea why they prefer the water trough. They will dangle down into it to get to the water if the level is down, too.

I have no idea if they have noticed the fish or not. They do not appear to care about them.


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## WalkerLady (Jul 22, 2010)

nyg052003 said:


> Yes one horse and I just take some off the roll and put in the large off the ground tray that I have so yes i wont have to get hay for awhile.


Oh, the roll is covered and the horse doesn't have 24/7 access. I misunderstood that part. Yes, a roll is very economical if you can hand feed it that way. I have nowhere to keep a roll but in the field out in all kinds of weather, so it has to get eaten pretty quickly.


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## dee (Jul 30, 2009)

Alwaysbehind said:


> My three cats drink out of the water trough. Yes they have a clean water bowl, I have no idea why they prefer the water trough. They will dangle down into it to get to the water if the level is down, too.
> 
> I have no idea if they have noticed the fish or not. They do not appear to care about them.


 
LOL! My cats do that too. Unfortunately for them - and they haven't learned to watch out yet - Dancer has an odd sense of humor and when a cat is drinking out of the trough, and my be a bit overbalanced, Dancer gives them a little shove - and we have a wet kitty!:lol:


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## themacpack (Jul 16, 2009)

> Originally Posted by *Alwaysbehind*
> My three cats drink out of the water trough. Yes they have a clean water bowl, I have no idea why they prefer the water trough. They will dangle down into it to get to the water if the level is down, too.


Aren't they funny. I noticed the other day that DD's cat had discovered the trough and then this morning I saw the three "little ones" (kittens - well, not anymore - that were dumped on our property last Halloween) following him out there and learning from him.


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