# Teaching a horse how to pony



## Magaidh (Apr 13, 2011)

I would really like to learn how to pony. Of my herd of five, three are youngsters who are basically unstarted: we've got a 5-year-old Canadian mare who was backed but then we stopped working with her after an injury, a 2-year-old Canadian/Hanoverian cross gelding, and an 8-month-old Percheron/Oldenburg.

I have tried my hand at it sporadically, and have ponied a 16.3 hand draft cross, and both our Canadian mares, on more than one occasion. My 15-year-old Percheron cross gelding (15.2) is a -great- ponying horse: very steady, solid, does not kick and can take some abuse from a youngster without getting too phased. 

Yesterday I took out the 5 year old Canadian and she was very good! I put her in a rope halter and we did our one-mile private road/laneway. However, she leans quite heavily into my gelding, and while she wasn't out of control by any means, she pulled quite a bit (my arm was dead after).

The young colt and gelding I foresee being the opposite -- they will probably be on the slow side to begin with and lag behind.

Does anyone have basic steps they take to teach a young horse to pony properly and well? How young would you start ponying? Any tips for me while riding? I find I twist my upper body when I'm trying to fight with either a dragging or a pulling horse...


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## equus717 (Aug 20, 2009)

Not sure. I am just now starting to work my yearling off of my other mare. I am starting first by moving her around the pasture and starting next month I am going to try ponying for the first time.


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## CecilliaB (Jan 21, 2010)

I like to have a few go rounds in the arena first just so they used to the whole idea.

Other then that I just get on and go. When my filly leans on my boy I just put my toe on her and nudge till she gets off


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## bubba13 (Jan 6, 2007)

What kind of saddle are you using?

I was taught to wrap the ponied horse's leadrope just one around the Western horn. It's safe--if you let go, the rope will come free immediately without getting hung up. But it gives you leverage to hold a strong horse, too.


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## Magaidh (Apr 13, 2011)

I've ponied in both a dressage and a western saddle. My western saddle is very uncomfortable and cheap so I prefer the dressage. I bet an aussie outback saddle would be perfect!


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## Eolith (Sep 30, 2007)

You may have already done this, but I like to make sure that the horse has superb ground manners when you're just handling them one on one before starting to do very much ponying.


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## Magaidh (Apr 13, 2011)

That makes sense, Eolith. Our 5 year old has great ground manners and we have done a lot of work with her on the ground since she was born (she's from our mare). However, she also has a testy personality so it's not unusual for her to push boundaries every now and then...


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## faye (Oct 13, 2010)

If this is where you ride one horse and lead the other at the same time? (sorry never heard the term ponying) then normaly I start in the field with a horse who has excellent ground manners and leads properly and an older horse who is used to being led from. 

Normaly I start by having a helper lead youngster besides the older horse whilst I have the reins of youngsters bridle in my hand (and I'm on the older pony). Once we have established the fact that neither pony is going to kick the other and neither is going to have a freak out then my person on the ground will walk with us, when she is sure the youngster has got the idea she will unclip the rope and step away. We do some walking round he field like that ensuring that we can stop, start and turn and then I take them out on the roads with someone walking with me incase of emergancy.

Normaly it only takes 2 or 3 sessions for the youngster to completly understand.
I have done this bareback, in a show saddle and in a GP saddle.

If the horse is strong then you should go back to basic ground manners before you ever even try to lead it from anouther horse.


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## Horse Poor (Aug 20, 2008)

If she's leaning into you, you may have the line too short causing her to bend into you. You want her to travel straight, not bent towards you. You could also be leaning causing the riding horse to drift into or away from her. Make sure you aren't bracing with your legs. If she's not wanting to stay in position and creep/go too far ahead, stick your arm out and up and if she goes beyond it, give the line a sharp jerk downward and don't speed your riding horse up to accommodate her - she can learn to stay where she's supposed to. After a time or two all you have to do is raise your arm and she'll pay attention and not go beyond it. If she's lagging behind or sucking back, bump the line to get her to come forward - make sure you slow the riding horse down till she gets it. If you find yourself constantly bumping, then dally the line, bump and let the saddle/riding horse take the drag, it won't be long before she'll come along. Try to keep a stead slow walk till she understands where she's supposed to be - you can always add a bit of speed later. Be sure you don't have a fast stepping riding horse and a hand horse who has to trot just to keep up. I pony with about an arm's length of line and fold the excess line in my gloved hand, (never coiled or looped) and I use a western saddle and breast collar, just in case. Make sure that your riding horse has a VERY good handle on it and is comfortable with ropes touching all parts of its body, including around the butt, flanks and under the tail. Oh, and make sure that your riding horse will WALK over all obstacles and through water! It's always a good idea that the riding horse be familiar with the terrain before you add the hand horse. Turning to the left takes a bit of time for the hand horse to learn, as does speeding up and slowing down. And as was said above, practice in an arena first - it's not fair to take either horse out without preparing them beforehand. That's all I can think of right now...

Good luck!


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## MacabreMikolaj (May 9, 2009)

I've recently begun teaching my Paint to pony. We've had issues because although we've corrected her manners on the ground, it really doesn't always translate into other areas. She knows better then to lag or haul on me on the ground, but for ponying it's like she "knows" I can't do boo about it and she'll walk like a mule, dragging her feet, and drifting behind my pony horse if I'm not HAULING on her face.

I finally got fed up, so working in an arena and with a dependable pony horse (LOL, my Arab, she's actually good when I need to depend on her) I dallied the rope to my horn (don't tie, it was firmly wrapped but could easily come loose in an emergency) and carried a Dressage whip (your pony horse has to be ace with whips) and tapped her on the butt any time I gave her a command that she chose to ignore. In no time flat, she was keeping that head right at my knee where I wanted it. We worked on sharp turns in both directions, much like on the ground, to teach her I ALWAYS want that nose at my knee (shoulder on the ground). She learned to pay attention, and also to trot to catch up when making a wide circle.

Also, because I am brilliant, (LOL!!!) Jynx has different voice commands then Zierra. So my verbal cue for Jynx to trot is different then any cue that Zierra knows and thus makes it easier to handle Jynx and make her speed up without Zierra thinking she should break a walk. However, ideally Zierra shouldn't know ANY verbal cues, but I was a dumb teenager so I have to live with that mistake!

Best of luck!


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## smrobs (Jul 30, 2008)

I don't normally pony horses but when I do, I start out in an arena or roundpen with a very trusted, dependable, well trained horse as my saddle horse. A lot of the time, if they lead well and have good ground manners and know how to give to the halter well, the transition to ponying will be pretty seamless. However, when I have one that is lugging on the lead, or getting sluggish, or racing ahead, I can either dally up and brace for impact or use my legs and reins to maneuver my horse to 'herd' the other horse, even push on them with shoulders or hips (not a little nudge either, more of a "you better get the hell off of me" push) without getting my own legs squished.


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## Brent (Mar 14, 2011)

Listen ponying is the same as leading a horse. But your horse that your leading has to be use to you being above them. If you can send your horse in a circle lunging from the ground. Do the same thing in the saddle. If your horse is leaning thinking of what you would do if he was leaning on you from the ground and do the same thing in the saddle. Everything you do on the ground to lead your horse should be done in the saddle. My horse will pony behind anything. 4wheeler pickup horse trailer ect.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Magaidh (Apr 13, 2011)

Thanks everyone for your advice. There are some good pointers here that I will utilize. The mare that I'm ponying has very nice ground manners and leads well. The horse I'm ponying from is rock solid, confident and obedient. He'll go over/through/past pretty much anything, so his confidence helps the girl following! 

One problem I've had with her is that she pins her ears and will try to bite the gelding on the neck at the trot. For this I give her a smack on the neck and a firm voice command. 

I'll keep practicing and try some of these suggestions. Perhaps there will be a photo if I can find someone to take one? Thanks!


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## Horse Poor (Aug 20, 2008)

If she's able to bite him on the neck, then she's too far forward.


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## Brent (Mar 14, 2011)

That's right she is to far forward. She should be at the same place you want her at when you lead her on the ground. Everything should be the same the ponied horse just has to get use to you being over top of her while your leading her. Get their feet moving while your saddle horse is standing still with you on its back and it won't take that horse long to see that its the same as leading on the ground plus it will earn your saddle horse some respect from that horse if they lack respect
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## faye (Oct 13, 2010)

Brent said:


> That's right she is to far forward. She should be at the same place you want her at when you lead her on the ground.


Way to contradict yourself.

Technically when leading a horse on the ground you should be at its shoulder, thus if you were to lead a horse from anouther horse and still be at the horses shoulder then the horse would very easily be able to bite the other on the neck.

I prefer to have the other horses head level with my knee and I alway want to keep the ridden horse on the right (so closest to the traffic on the roads) this is so that when on the roads I have control of the quarters of the horse closest to the traffic and can use my leg to prevent a horse swinging its backside into traffic.


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## Horse Poor (Aug 20, 2008)

faye said:


> Technically when leading a horse on the ground you should be at its shoulder, thus if you were to lead a horse from anouther horse and still be at the horses shoulder then the horse would very easily be able to bite the other on the neck.


I would never lead this way. The horse's head should be at YOUR shoulder when leading from the ground. Otherwise, the horse is leading you.


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## Brent (Mar 14, 2011)

There was no contradiction there. If the horse being led was at the your shoulder which then how could that not be at your knee when in the saddle unless you lay down and ride him. and a horse at your shoulder will one day think he is leading you instead of you leading them. I like for my horses to stay slightly behind and off to the side of me. And they seem to always respect your space better that way. A horse that's led at your shoulder will first start pushing or rubbing you with his head then next comes their front shoulder pushing on you. Where if they aren't up there to push on you then you always have their respect.
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## Brent (Mar 14, 2011)

And why would you want a horse that is bitting stuff close to your knee. That would hurt cause sooner or later they are going bite you.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## faye (Oct 13, 2010)

no you misunderstood, you should be stood at the horses shoulder not it at yours.

Leading a horse is all about its feet, it doesnt matter one jot to the horse if you are in front or behind it provided you are the one telling it where to put its feet. 
It is however safer for the person to be at the horses shoulder as you can send the horse forwards more easily, you can see exactly where its feet are going and you have more control if the horse decides to shoot forwards because the dragon in the hedge is going to eat it. Also a horse will not be able to go threw you like it could if you were ahead of it!

You need to go back to basics if you think you should lead from infront of the horse!

Brent, Non of my horses would dare bite me, they all have more manners then that.


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## noddy (Apr 1, 2010)

I don't have any input on how to teach a horse to pony, because I bet my method for difficult horses would earn me a right royal flaming. However, I do have something to say about this led horse position fight that seems to be sprouting.

Polo ponies are all led on a loose lead, in a lot of busy yards you can be riding one and leading four at walk, trot and canter. I bet you guys think my led horse here is too far up. Well, if you've got a handful of reins and you're leading a horse, it's easier to have them on a slightly loose rein than have their movements jerking the ridden horse in the mouth. Then again, you could probably get my old boss' polo ponies to pony themselves.

http://i54.tinypic.com/10fwck0.jpg


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## faye (Oct 13, 2010)

noddy, slightly too far up yes, but I'd prefer too far up to being to far behind. 2 horses look quite happy and in control so no problems from me.

I like mine with thier nose by my knee and thus in a different position to if you were leading from the ground (where you should be at the horses shoulder), however that is personal preference.

I've got no photos of me doing it with my horses but found this one on google images that shows approx where I like mine stood but would prefer it on the other side if we were on the roads (so pony on my left away from the traffic)
http://portraitswithhorses.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2006/08/HorseBabyPonyingCM.jpg


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## Brent (Mar 14, 2011)

Well guess everyone is different. Don't do polo. And I don't need to go back to the basic Faye. I train my horses and my clients to be the safest for them. On shake of my lead and my horse stops. The dragon in the bush is no big deal for my horse I know he isn't going run over me. And to get your horse feet to move when leading the way you do takes a lot of movement from you. To get my horse to move or stop from where I lead takes hardly nothing. Plus my lead rope drags the ground if I want it too. Or like most of the time I don't even use a lead rope he follows my. And the way you do it would be called following in my mind. Leading is being out in front of something. Beside it would be tied. Behind its head would be following. The way I look at it anyways. I pony horse's all over. I do it on the trails in the pen in the field.I will saddle up two horse and take off while poning one. Or we go on over night pack trips.And I have never had one problem with ponying horses. So I don't think I need to go back to the basics but thanks anyways
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## Horse Poor (Aug 20, 2008)

Noddy, if you go back and read the OP's very first post you will see that the horse being ponied is in a rope halter, not a bridle.


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## candandy49 (Jan 16, 2011)

I ponyed my mare's first born, a colt from mounted on her at his being 4 months old. I saddled his Mom, haltered him and down the country road we went. However, the first outing we only went 1/2 mile one way or it was a round trip of one mile. I did worry about the rocky road being tough on his baby hooves, but he did fine with no problems what so ever.

It does scare me to think some will pony from a barebacked or English tacked pony horse. I have a follow-up true experience to add with an experience of this sort.


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## noddy (Apr 1, 2010)

Horse Poor said:


> Noddy, if you go back and read the OP's very first post you will see that the horse being ponied is in a rope halter, not a bridle.


If you look closely, the led horse in the photo IS wearing a rope halter. In regards to the jabbing, I was talking about the led horse pulling back and, if you're holding your reins in both hands the ridden horse would get jabbed in the mouth.



candandy49 said:


> It does scare me to think some will pony from a barebacked or English tacked pony horse. I have a follow-up true experience to add with an experience of this sort.


How so? I've never ridden anything but english, so I don't share your concerns.



faye said:


> noddy, slightly too far up yes, but I'd prefer too far up to being to far behind. 2 horses look quite happy and in control so no problems from me.
> 
> I like mine with thier nose by my knee and thus in a different position to if you were leading from the ground (where you should be at the horses shoulder), however that is personal preference.
> 
> ...


I never pony on roads (well, once with a bolshy youngster and the road was the fastest way back to the yard where he was needed and it was a hell of a lot safer with another horse to push his bum off the road), but if I did I would change sides so I was riding on the road with the led horse on the grass verge. I actually prefer to lead on the ground with the horse's shoulder just behind me, but ponying I let them move where they want within reason, especially with fast work. It's all personal preference in the end. =D


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## Horse Poor (Aug 20, 2008)

Okay, I see what you are talking about and misunderstood you…I thought you meant that BOTH horses had bridles on. To make it simpler, I will refer to the horse being ridden as the saddle horse and the horse being ponied the hand horse. In the photo I can only see one hand of the rider, the left, and it does look like the rope is in that hand as well as both reins. I have no idea what the right hand is doing, the photo is cropped. In the photo, the hand horse IS ahead of the saddle horse with its shoulders leaning toward the saddle horse and its hips angled toward the rail which is not a good position - it is being squeezed between the saddle horse and the rail. If this rider had the reins in the left hand and the rope in the right, there would be no reason to jerk the saddle horse at all. IF the saddle horse only knows direct rein, then the rider can easily take both reins in the left hand, take the rope in the right hand, adjust the hand horse and then bring the right hand back to the right rein and hold both the right rein and rope. There is no need to jerk the reins of the saddle horse at all. That said, I ride western and only need one hand to rein, so there is never any jerking on the reins because of an unsettled uncooperative hand horse.


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## noddy (Apr 1, 2010)

Horse Poor said:


> Okay, I see what you are talking about and misunderstood you…I thought you meant that BOTH horses had bridles on. To make it simpler, I will refer to the horse being ridden as the saddle horse and the horse being ponied the hand horse. In the photo I can only see one hand of the rider, the left, and it does look like the rope is in that hand as well as both reins. I have no idea what the right hand is doing, the photo is cropped. In the photo, the hand horse IS ahead of the saddle horse with its shoulders leaning toward the saddle horse and its hips angled toward the rail which is not a good position - it is being squeezed between the saddle horse and the rail. If this rider had the reins in the left hand and the rope in the right, there would be no reason to jerk the saddle horse at all. IF the saddle horse only knows direct rein, then the rider can easily take both reins in the left hand, take the rope in the right hand, adjust the hand horse and then bring the right hand back to the right rein and hold both the right rein and rope. There is no need to jerk the reins of the saddle horse at all. That said, I ride western and only need one hand to rein, so there is never any jerking on the reins because of an unsettled uncooperative hand horse.


I normally hold the lead in one hand and reins in the other, but I was scratching my head in that photo. But yes, I was referring to direct rein.

Also, sometimes if I'm leading a bolshy horse it will have a chifney/anti-rearing bit on, so if a bit is used you have to be careful not to jab either horse in the mouth (though all the chifneys I use are leather covered mullens)


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## Horse Poor (Aug 20, 2008)

Perhaps I'm not making myself clear. It makes NO difference what bit either horse is wearing or not wearing, the hand horse is NOT in a controllable position if he is AHEAD of the saddle horse. IF you pony correctly - English or Western, you will not jab either horse in the mouth!


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## Marecare (Jan 1, 2009)

You guys are having such a good time I thought I would add some more pictures to argue about...Ha!


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## Brent (Mar 14, 2011)

The third picture is the way I do it. But I also make sure that I can put the poinied horse I need or want him. Nice pictures
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Horse Poor (Aug 20, 2008)

Marecare said:


> You guys are having such a good time I thought I would add some more pictures to argue about…Ha!


Absolutely NO argument here, Marecare - BEAUTIFULLY done and gorgeous pictures - as the saying goes, a picture is worth a thousand words. Very nicely done. Thank you for sharing.


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## Magaidh (Apr 13, 2011)

Awesome photos, Marecare! Thanks for sharing. I took the mare out again tonight. She was excellently behaved, and I kept her on a rather short lead, next to my knee, and had much less trouble with her bumping into my gelding. She was a bit strong on the way home, and tried to bite him twice (smack), but I think I've got the hang of it, and the mare is really enjoying getting out and I think will learn this routine quickly.


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## MacabreMikolaj (May 9, 2009)

The comments about NOT ponying English or bareback concern me - if Western is different, is it because you're tying to the horn?! Because THAT sounds a helluva lot more dangerous to me! I will dally a tougher or snottier horse, but I would never EVER tie another horse to my saddle, that's just asking for trouble. Proper ponying should be done by leading, so it shouldn't matter a wit what kind of tack you're using, a Western only comes in handy with a tough horse if you want to dally and give your arm a break. You still better make darn sure you have the right equipment to make sure you don't spin your saddle if you're going into battle though!


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## Marecare (Jan 1, 2009)

Thanks,
No fight here either,just a bunch of fun with a couple of horses and a nice day.


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## trailhorserider (Oct 13, 2009)

First off, I am not an expert. As a matter of fact, I have a 9 month old colt (my first) and am reading on here because I have been having ponying issues myself. 

But, I personally prefer the position of the Paint horse in marecare's photos. I had someone who is very experienced teach me to pony, and she prefers her colts back at the horse's hip (like in the photos of the chestnut colt in marecare's pictures) and that was great for about 3 rides. Then my colt climbed up on the back of the horse I was riding and knocked me off my horse and when he came down he stepped on me. He is over 600 lbs and I think God was watching over me, because he stepped right in my armpit and not on my chest. I had a huge bruise but that was all. 

Now I am afraid to let him get that far back, unless he is really, really relaxed. I just think the head-at-your-knee position is safer. And if they are being frisky, they are less likely to rear or bolt away from you if you have them on a short lead near your knee. 

When and if my colt is calm I give him more lead, but if he is being a brat, I want the lead short and close to my knee. Sigh!

Not to cause more controversy, but at what age do you start to pony them with a surcingle or lightweight saddle?


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## Marecare (Jan 1, 2009)

One of the steps of learning how to pony and how to teach a young horse to pony is the outside turn.

As the young horse is next to you the rider should be able to turn the lead horse into the pony horse and turn that horse in a circle.
You are on the outside of the turn or circle.
You are "rounding up" the young horse just as a more senior horse does to a younger one in a herd.

The inside turn is a bit more difficult because the younger horse has to speed up to stay in step with you and the horse you are riding and you are on the inside of the turn.

It is best to practice this in a small pen or arena until you have the hang of this before venturing out far.

Rounding up will keep the young horse from jumping ahead if you catch it in time and it will give you a tool to stay safe.


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## trailhorserider (Oct 13, 2009)

Thank you for posting this Marecare! 

I worked with a trainer for a couple of hours and that is similar to what he suggested. He was using his own mare and pushing her into my colt to try to get him to respect their space. I watched that but have yet to implement it myself. But I like the idea of "rounding up" the colt. That seems like it might be easier for me to do that actually use my riding horse as a battering ram. :lol:

He really doesn't get ahead of us too often, I worry more about him climbing up our back, but he does get ahead on occasion, mainly when we are going out and he is fresh. Oh, if only I could keep him tired all the time! My colt is so much nicer when he is tired!


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## candandy49 (Jan 16, 2011)

MacabreMikolaj said:


> The comments about NOT ponying English or bareback concern me - if Western is different, is it because you're tying to the horn?! Because THAT sounds a helluva lot more dangerous to me! I will dally a tougher or snottier horse, but I would never EVER tie another horse to my saddle, that's just asking for trouble. Proper ponying should be done by leading, so it shouldn't matter a wit what kind of tack you're using, a Western only comes in handy with a tough horse if you want to dally and give your arm a break. You still better make darn sure you have the right equipment to make sure you don't spin your saddle if you're going into battle though!


Oh no, I would never ever tie hard and fast to the saddle horn the lead rope on the horse I was ponying nor would I tie a loop in the lead and put it over the saddle horn. I always just dallyed the lead rope once around the horn and held onto the rest of the lead rope. What a terrible wreck could happen with tying hard and fast to the saddle horn. With a horse I knew was a good, calm one I would just hold onto the lead rope. 

The road I live on is a country back roads with little to no traffic so I was always safe riding here going "down the road". All the local neighbors knew me so they always slowed their vehicle until they got past me.

The one experience I witnessed was a rider mounted bareback ponying two other horses. The two ponyed horses decided to go in two different directions. The rider got jerked off the one she was on. She got stepped on by all three horses, but some how she escaped with only some very bad bruises and superficial cuts. The woman was not using common sense and could have gotten very seriously hurt.

Marecare - Your pictures are great!!!


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## PaintHorseMares (Apr 19, 2008)

I always pony the young ones. It's a good way to build confidence and experience when starting out on the trail as well as being able to work (and behave) close to another horse. Just a few thoughts...
As far as position, I prefer the horse's shoulder at my hip. To me, it allows a relatively short lead and a lot of flexibility for turns in both directions. To be practical, I will accept a horse lagging a bit, but never ahead. It's not unusual when coming upon something new that a young one will want to let you lead and drop back to your horse's hip or tuck in behind. I don't have a problem with letting a horse do that as long as the horse doesn't cross over...being able to pony 'single file' is very useful, e.g. on narrow trails.
Always be very careful with the lead rope, it can quickly become your worst enemy, e.g. if you do dally...you would be surprised at how easily/quickly a horse can pull your hand and pinch it against the horn if you're not paying attention. 
Finally, have an idea ahead of time about what you will do if things start getting out of hand, e.g. the ponied horse bolts or decides to plant its feet. A general idea about whether you want to ride it out/dally or let go is good to have in the back of your mind. There are pros/cons either way depending on the situation and horses involved.


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