# Horse won't budge!!



## usandpets (Jan 1, 2011)

Are you talking about from a stand still or just going faster?

From a stand still, get her to start turning to "unstick" her feet. 

If she's already moving, squeeze both legs, bump both legs, use the crop/whip and keep increasing the pressure until she responds. Even if it's just for a few strides, that's a start. If you stop before she responds, you are just teaching her to ignore your cues. If tapping her behind your leg doesn't work, try her butt. If tapping doesn't work, give her a smack then a whack. Whatever it's going to take to get her to respond. If you start with little pressure first and increase, she will start responding to the lighter pressure. 

Have you thought of using spurs (if you know how to use them correctly)?
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## LadyNeigh (Jul 16, 2011)

:thumbsup: Thank you- I will give them a go.
And about spurs- of course I won't start using them till a instructor has taught me to do so, but, whats the general idea about using them? :-?


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## usandpets (Jan 1, 2011)

Spurs are just a reinforcement of your cues just like a whip or crop. You don't jab them into the horse. You put them against their side just like you do your calves. If that still has no effect, you roll them. Usually that's enough to get them to move.
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## Rule of Reason (Feb 11, 2010)

Did the whip work? If so, I don't see why you don't just use that.

Have you heard of "the lesson of the leg"? It's a remedial exercise for a horse that likes to ignore leg aids. I would only do it in an enclosed arena, and also you do have to have a reasonably good seat before you try it. You will need a whip. What you do is, first apply your usual leg aid for an upward transition. The horse should move out promptly and with *noticeable* energy. Not just a sluggish amble. If that doesn't happen, you then apply a stronger leg aid. Both times, you are applying the aid only one time--no nagging. If the horse doesn't move forward smartly and promptly from this, you then (make sure your reins are loose and) apply the original soft leg aid and smack with the whip at the same time! You should be smacking hard enough so that the horse *jerks* forward. The reins need to be loose so that you can guarantee you're not yanking on his mouth when he moves forward. If he goes faster than you wanted, you let him go at that pace for a minute or so, praising him, and then quietly bring him down to the pace you want. You'll probably have to do this a couple times, and some horses need reminders every few rides, but it really works.

Because the horse may go into a faster gait than you expect, you may prefer to get into jumping position and have your hands on the mane for the whip smack, rather than just loosening the rein.

By the time you read this I guess you'll have had your ride, so let us know how it went!


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## gypsygirl (Oct 15, 2009)

very similar to what i do ruleofreason.

apply soft lef, med leg, hard leg. if they arent going to gait you want by now, cluck ONE TIME. if they dont move off, you need to smack them behind your leg until they gallop. make sure once they move forward you stop smacking them. once you do thisa couple times, they will learn they have 3 chances to move off of your leg. if they dont, they will hear the cluck and know whats coming next.


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## mildot (Oct 18, 2011)

RuleofReason for the win.

That's how you educate a horse that ignores the leg.

Ask once. No nagging. If the question is ignored, demand and demand swiftly.


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## uii (Dec 26, 2011)

If you use a crop, be sure not to over-use it. It's an aid, not a punishment. 
Also, having other horse buddies with him might help him move along a little faster.


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## Black Beauty 94 (Dec 26, 2011)

I would say bring that crop with you and have alot of patience. Even if the horse only goes a few steps that is better than nothing. Give a good pat. I would squeeze with both legs, cluck or kiss and give a little tap with the crop. 

With the crop find out the area on her/his body that seems to make them move. My horse will move more when I tap him on the shoulder than the butt, all horses are different.

If nothing else works try looking around and seeing if the horse is looking at something. I have had the problem with my guy were he will just stop and not move even if you slapped him on the butt. Get off, walk the horse over to the area and show them it is ok.

Light spurs are also good....try using some of those ideas...good luck!


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## Tnavas (Nov 29, 2011)

I teach my riders to tap/press with the leg - no kicking!
1st leg aid - oh ok you were asleep!
2nd leg aid - go - great
if ignored
3rd leg aid with sharp whip behind leg
If still ignored then the stick gets turned up the otherway and is used first over hand on one side and rapidly behind the leg on the side it is being carried in.
Eg, stick in right hand - whack on the left, then rapidly whack on the right - 99% of horses will shoot forward from this.
Allow the horse to keep moving forward for a few strides before quietly slowing to the desired pace.
The moment the horse moves forward he must be rewarded - this means stop using leg and whips and then praise preferably with your voice or a stroke on the neck. Don't do this if he is already slowing down again as then you are paraising him for going slower.


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

Have you ever wondered why your horse won't move? He doesn't want to. If your mum came up to you a said 'go for a walk' or 'go for a run' it's not the most ideal thing (it might be for you but your horse doesn't seem to like it). I ride Parelli which uses methods of making a horse want to do something for you instead of feeling 'oh I probably should do this or I'm gonna get hit'. He is taking advantage of you. He doesn't think you are interesting enough for him to do something for you. If my horse doesn't want to do something, I change her mind. If she doesn't want to walk forward, the first thing I do is bring all my energy up, squeeze all the way down your leg, not just lower leg or heel and then click or kiss. If this doesn't work, I do want I mentioned before; I change her mind. If she doesn't want to go forwards, we will go backwards, sideways, small turning circles and so on. If se doesn't respond, I would get off and make her do something that gets her thinking (I would do cantering figure 8) after a while she will think, would I rather canter round, or walk with her on my back? I know maybe the getting off part may not help for when you are going out hacking but hopefully it will helpfor the future  I know Parelli doesn't work for everyone but these are a few things that can be incorporated into traditional riding as well. Once again, I hope I have helped )


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## LadyNeigh (Jul 16, 2011)

thats awesome savvygirl- i need to start thinking like this!! No wait- i WILL start tthinking like this!! Thank you!


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

I never thought like this until someone told me, but once you hear it it makes loads of sense even though you would have never have thought of it that way- and its okay!


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

No offence to Savvy but ew, Parelli. PP is a good horseman in his own right (when he's in control that is) but the majority of his "instructors" have got the wrong end of the stick and are teaching their own version of the method which may or may not be as effective. I personally use a modified version of Parelli taught to me by a very well-considered horseman who actually learned from the man himself. Among others.

What I would do in this situation is what my instructor has been at me about with Monty. Light leg aid, ONCE. No nagging. And then if the horse doesn't respond, make it think it's going to die if it doesn't move NOW. You ask for forward, you should GET forward, and it doesn't matter if it's faster than you thought you were asking, not while you're putting the notion of forward into the horse's head. You can always refine it later.

I have from a sluggish walk to trot transition, demanded a fast canter. Boy was he sharp off the leg the next time!

Oh - and if the transition is dodgy, bring the horse back and ask again, and again, and again, until you get a snappy one - and THEN allow the horse to keep going in the gait you were asking for.


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## rachelgem (Oct 22, 2011)

i have a very lazy fjord, so my instructor taught me that if squeezing with my legs doesn't work, and a tap with the whip behind my leg doesn't work, you whack them on the top of their bum (and i mean really skelp them), because that's where the energy comes from. it really worked with my horse, she got the hang of it and soon was going nicely with just me using my legs


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

blue eyed pony;129173 And then if the horse doesn't respond said:


> Do you actually want your horse to feel as if its gonna die or be hurt? My horse does things for me because she wants to, not because she feel tha she is the prey and will be hurt if she doesnt.


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

Hasn't harmed my relationship with either of mine, Savvy. They're both easy to catch in the pasture (they catch ME) and they're both very affectionate and friendly with anybody. So the yearling's not under saddle yet and with a horse that's still learning I'd move more slowly but with Monty... He is an accomplished eventer and therefore usually pretty good on the "soft aids" side of things but bloody lazy so yes, he needs to know there are unpleasant consequences for not doing as he's told, or he'd get more and more sluggish off the leg and THEN where would I be? I don't advocate abuse... I just feel that Parelli-followers and MANY other horsepeople besides are far too soft on their horses and that's why we get people who have problems.

With any horse, you want to make what YOU want the easy way out. My boy can't handle a whip so I've had to increase the strength in my legs so that I can give STRONG leg aids, and I bought some spurs to use if I'm anticipating a particularly sluggish day. I used them for two rides and haven't needed them since. If he's being REALLY bad, and I don't have my spurs with me, I'll dismount and put him in the round pen, and he will go quickly, or he will feel the sting of the lunge whip on his butt.

I don't force my horse to do anything... what I do is ensure that he respects me. I guarantee you that if the alpha mare in the pasture told a horse to move, and that horse refused, she'd do a whole lot worse than any human being is physically capable of.


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

Well people that have problems, are not using it properly. I have been taught by a Parelli Proffessional, I know what I am doing, if you use it wrong, you can get problems. My aids are soft to begin with, and I get harder gradually. But I have now improved a lot with my horse and use the same aids but 1..........234 not 1....2....3.....4, so my horse moves forwards on the ground while riding and turns with me just using hand signals and body language.
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## Saranda (Apr 14, 2011)

That's a good technique, blue eyed pony, and I used it too on my boy, when he was extremely lazy and sluggish both in walk, trot and transitioning to canter. We got to snappy transitions and active walk in no time, and he's very responsive to the leg - learning that "go" really means GO and that following the leader, if the leader says we have to run, NOW, is a good thought. And it hasn't harmed our relationship, either, quite on the contrary.


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## DuffyDuck (Sep 27, 2011)

Savvy, a whip and spurs in the wrong hands can do damage, as can a knotted headcollar and a 'carrot' stick. 

My horse has a job- she is a working animal. Fear and respect are two different things, and I wouldn't condone anyone that beats their horse's in to submission- however, I do have one question to ask you, and I don't know if Parelli has covered this.

Herd dynamics.
In Parelli's heard, does his lead mare politely ask the others to stop getting in her space, stop trying to get in to lead position and stop nipping at her heels?

I'll answer this how I would: no.
Horses are horses. If I use a whip, leg or spur on my horse, it is not to harm him, it is to REMIND him I am lead mare. I do not have the physical strength of a horse to nail her butt and double barrel her, so I use other things to my advantage (no whip though, can't touch her with one under saddle). IF people use these things correctly, its in no way to harm a horse, it is the equivalent to a herd mare saying 'this is where you go' I am saying 'this is where your feet go ie speed, gait, movement'.


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

Savvy - so can you explain those horses that the best of Parelli's professionals just can't work with using PP methods? But that other methods work just fine for?

For the record I do use a modified version of Parelli's groundwork. I just don't want to ride his way.

Saranda - it's worked wonders with three of my horses to date that are completely different personality-wise and will be awesome with my filly too, no doubt, when she's under saddle. I had a bold and cheeky TOTAL lazybones little Welshie who there was no way you could ride him without a whip, you HAD to have the whip there even after re-educating him or you'd be doing massive flying kicks every two strides. He would canter a whole jumpers course without breaking by the time I outgrew him, and had I asked it of him, I suspect I'd have gotten a cross country course. Then there was my nervy Standardbred who had no forward to speak of - that was a horse that would get incredibly offended if I used any stronger of an aid than HE deemed necessary. And now my forward-moving-but-lazy Anglo (yes he is both, sometimes both at once!). I've never ridden a horse where increasing the pressure until you get the result you want didn't work.

My attitude with moving forward is that say there's a branch about to fall on you... you've got exactly two seconds to get that forward active trot/canter/whatever or you're going to get squished. You don't have TIME to pussyfoot around with a horse that isn't wanting to listen. So you need your transitions (ALL of them, including downwards ones) just that snappy that you don't scare yourself to death when that tree branch lands right behind you (or in front of you if you're talking downwards transitions), because you've got plenty of room and you're not going to get squished.

Why I say this is because a good GO button is absolutely vitally important in any horse that's used for any discipline. In fact I consider forward to be more important than stop! But, without the four basics of stop, go, left turn and right turn, you can't even begin to work on anything else. The horse needs to be listening to YOU, going YOUR pace, and IMO as long as you're not abusing the animal to get the results, who cares about the method used?


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## Saranda (Apr 14, 2011)

_My attitude with moving forward is that say there's a branch about to fall on you..

_Same here. I sometimes focus my thoughts/energy on the idea that the ground is going to collapse under us in a few seconds, so we move NOW. It seemed that it helped him to understand the idea, too. When I say move, then it has really, really good reasons. And recently it saved us both from possible injuries, when he spooked under saddle from a dog that appeared suddenly in the arena, jumped out of it on the road (my bad, he jumped straight onto icy pavement, so I hesitated to use emergency brakes because I feared we might both fall), and then I saw a car coming straight at us from a turn. Just because he responds so good to my "MOVE, the ground is collapsing!!" cue, he did not freeze in front of the car, but leaped into canter, just as I had asked, the same second I had asked, thus saving us both. It was a scare, but it proved to me once more, how important it is to teach the horse to be really, really responsive.


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

Yep I've had that recently too. With my bloke a good stop is as important as forward because he is very bi-polar (typical bloody Arab) and will be a total slug one day and then a nutcase the next. His stop, I'm sure, saved my life the other day when he spooked forwards and we were riding towards a busy road with my reins held at the buckle. I had exactly two strides to get him halted and this, guys, is from a panicked half-bolt. His go has saved me too, but not as recently so I don't remember details.


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## Prinella (Jul 12, 2011)

I honestly think that the sensitivity of the go button depends on its job and rider. Our school horses being schoolies are hand picked for a stiff go button. The kids are taught to squeeze squeeze harder start 'slapping' and MEAN it. Often all that is required if they are infected is squeeze / squeeze harder and maybe a tap ( this is the littlies I'm talking about) however when one of our more advanced riders get on you see these horses moving with almost effort. Often the riders energy coming up is enough.

Essentially the theory is ask quietly first and get louder and louder until the horses response matches your asking. 

If the problem repeats ask louder faster.




Rachelgem I too work with fjords and love em
But know they are a rule unto themselves! Half bulldozer! I have used more force with a fjord then I would dream of using on anything else! I know your pain! 

The theory behind any ask should be the same whether stop, go sideways, forwards, turn, backwards, move that shoulder etc

Start quietly get louder and louder make sure you have some backup for your command. Ie squeeze, squeeze harder, tap whip, harder, decent flick now, harder, etc

ETA I also train under a brilliant woman with parelli bases. She got jack of a alot of his money making so is no longer a certified instructor. Our basis is in parelli but we then apply that to 'real life' situations, her passion is dressage mine jumping.

Whilst in most scenarios I would not want a move or die feeling, it is sometimes neccesarry so it is vital to have that emergency go button, just as the emerency stop. Everything I work with is taught to move off increasing pressure but must also cope with GO NOW 

_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

I have not come across a horse that you cannot do Parelli with! A lot of horses are harder to work with as they do not like the idea much, but take the time it takes so it takes less time. And to what you said about the lead mare. In the herd where I ride, my horse is the lead mare. Now I have become her lead mare. If my horse gets in my space, I get her out. No question about it. I am like another horse to her, my carrot stick could be my body or my leg. If she comes into my space, I would kick my stick out at her, and she'll think, wow, she's my lead mare. If she has not done anything wrong, just not moving, I will send her, (like pulling faces, ears back), lift my carrot stick (biting towards her), swing my string(swishing tail, kick out leg) and then hit her (like bite or kick).
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## rachelgem (Oct 22, 2011)

Prinella said:


> Rachelgem I too work with fjords and love em
> But know they are a rule unto themselves! Half bulldozer! I have used more force with a fjord then I would dream of using on anything else! I know your pain!
> 
> 
> _Posted via Mobile Device_




Yeah, its sometimes hard! when i ride other horses im like, wow, this horse goes and i barely have to touch it!


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## DuffyDuck (Sep 27, 2011)

savvygirl559 said:


> I have not come across a horse that you cannot do Parelli with! A lot of horses are harder to work with as they do not like the idea much, but take the time it takes so it takes less time. And to what you said about the lead mare. In the herd where I ride, my horse is the lead mare. Now I have become her lead mare. If my horse gets in my space, I get her out. No question about it. I am like another horse to her, my carrot stick could be my body or my leg. If she comes into my space, I would kick my stick out at her, and she'll think, wow, she's my lead mare. If she has not done anything wrong, just not moving, I will send her, (like pulling faces, ears back), lift my carrot stick (biting towards her), swing my string(swishing tail, kick out leg) and then hit her (like bite or kick).
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 
I don't disagree with you, any horse can do parelli, any horse can be beaten in to doing things, or use NH or monty roberts or traditional methods- its the person teaching it.

My point is, you seem to have to 'ask' for a lot of things.. for riding, for moving etc and you have a thing called a carrot stick which is essentially a whip, and you've still got in near her, sending her away etc that I do with a normal lunge whip or the end of a rope. You hit her (bite/kick) like I use my whip to make my horse move forwards.


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## DuffyDuck (Sep 27, 2011)

rachelgem said:


> Yeah, its sometimes hard! when i ride other horses im like, wow, this horse goes and i barely have to touch it!


 
Ah, we had a fjord come to our riding club from Poland, manager fell in love and bought it.. worst idea ever, she'd only pulled carts.

Best horse for begginer adults, because she would NOT go ANYWHERE you'd break a sweat in a walk :lol:


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

Yes I do ask, then harder and harder and harder, I then demand, I am the herd leader so she will do what I ask her, but I do it as if I am a horse. That is the point of parelli! That is why it is natural!
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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

And a carrot stick is not a whip! It is an extension of your arm. Horses have long bodies, we have tall bodies. The carrot stick symbolises our long body and the string represents our tail, it is not a whip!
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## DuffyDuck (Sep 27, 2011)

savvygirl559 said:


> And a carrot stick is not a whip! It is an extension of your arm. Horses have long bodies, we have tall bodies. The carrot stick symbolises our long body and the string represents our tail, it is not a whip!
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 
A horse doesn't think like a human,whip or carrot stick.. do you think THEY know the difference? My whip IS an extension of my body whenEVER I use it. 
I don't know enough parelli to say whether or not you're doing it right, but if you read, especially blue's posts, you will see everyone is singing off the same hymn sheet here, ask, tell, demand. What is the difference to me 'hitting' my horse with a whip, and you'hitting' your horse with a 'carrot stick'?


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

I never said there was a difference! I said there was a difference between a whip and a carrot stick?
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## DuffyDuck (Sep 27, 2011)

savvygirl559 said:


> I never said there was a difference! I said there was a difference between a whip and a carrot stick?
> _Posted via Mobile Device_


 
But what is the difference of the end achievement? You're using this carrot stick of yours like I use a whip, for the same reasons- everything. I personally cannot see the difference between the two.


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## Saranda (Apr 14, 2011)

Duffy, there is a slight difference. Carrot stick is basically a lot heavier than an ordinary whip, and the string lands softer on a horse than that of a whip for the same reason. Therefore, I find carrot sticks better for beginners, because they are too uncomfortable to be overused and to heavy to be moved fast (unless the user has strong hands), thus a horse isn't traumatised by unnecessary and heavy whip usage and it is quite good for young and easy to scare horses, too (in my experience).
For skilled people and experienced horses, however, I'd suggest a good whip or, as I prefer, a Honza stick (Honza Blaha, a chechz NH horseman) - a lighter and easier to use kind of "carrot stick". And in a better colour, too.


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## DuffyDuck (Sep 27, 2011)

Saranda said:


> Duffy, there is a slight difference. Carrot stick is basically a lot heavier than an ordinary whip, and the string lands softer on a horse than that of a whip for the same reason. Therefore, I find carrot sticks better for beginners, because they are too uncomfortable to be overused and to heavy to be moved fast (unless the user has strong hands), thus a horse isn't traumatised by unnecessary and heavy whip usage and it is quite good for young and easy to scare horses, too (in my experience).
> For skilled people and experienced horses, however, I'd suggest a good whip or, as I prefer, a Honza stick (Honza Blaha, a chechz NH horseman) - a lighter and easier to use kind of "carrot stick". And in a better colour, too.


 
But like you said, it depends on the hands that use them... a lunge whip can be gentle, a carrot stick can be harsh, but they're both used for the ultimate end goal.. or so Savvy says, I didn't think PP 'hits' his horses.. I thought it was all about asking :shock:

Many ways to skin a goose, but in the end, a carrot stick and a whip are much of a muchness.. different colours, different weights, but they're still the same thing. I can use my whip as lightly, or as heavily as I like or need to... what I'm trying to say is Parelli isn't the be all and end all, and where I'm not an expert in the matter, I don't understand why people use the term 'carrot stick' to make it sound cute and cuddly when it principle its a whip.

Also ref the hitting, Savvy said the aim, I think in another thread or this one, is NOT to scare our horses.. the first time you whack with that whip, carrot stick etc when you have asked, told, DEMAND of course the horse is going to have a moment to itself, and hopefully not do it again.


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

Pat parelli named it a carrot stick because (his words not mine, I think its pretty silly) 'some people are carrot people, who try to bribe their horses, and some people are stick people who whip their horses into doing something. We use a carrot stick for a perfect balance imbetween'. I think that that is stupid, many people have a perfect balance and their horses are fine without using a carrot stick! And Duffy, I don't know if you are understanding everything we are saying? Parelli is not all about asking, it is about getting your horse to trust you by being a herd leader. We are doing what the herd leader would do to the horse to make it do something, that is why it is calle natural horsemanship because it is as natural as it gets!


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## Saranda (Apr 14, 2011)

Agree. I still call my carrot stick a whip (because carrot stick just sounds so long and silly), and I prefer using a lightweight whip, if possible. A whip is a whip, no matter, how it is called. I mostly use it as a reminder - my first cues come from energy and body, and then I tap him with the whip as if saying "Hey, I'm here, remember what you have to do!". 

And hitting is hitting, no matter if a carrot stick or a traditional whip is used. Then it has gone outside the borders of good horsemanship, NH or no NH.

I also think, that you can't _get _the horse to trust you. Trust comes with building relationships and respect, through sensible training, through reading the horse, not wanting it to read the human automatically. But this is what many misunderstand, when they take up PP's method.


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

I agree with that completely and that is exactly what I do!


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## LadyNeigh (Jul 16, 2011)

i prefer monty roberts techniques. Sensible techniques


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## blue eyed pony (Jun 20, 2011)

And getting a horse to stand on an upturned bucket is natural?

I have said myself that I use a modified version of Parelli but a lot of the crap he does and gets his followers to do is just pointless. And - have you seen the videos online of him basically abusing some of the horses he's worked with? He can and does lose control. Those videos are what ruined my faith in him. Catwalk in particular. And one particular horse "trainer" I know who broke a friend's gelding's tooth... using PP methods.

Be fanatical all you like, NO ONE METHOD works for every horse. Just because you've never come across a horse it doesn't work for, doesn't mean it works for every horse. How many horses have you worked with in your life? I guarantee you will find one horse that makes you question everything you've ever learned. When? Who knows? But it will happen, and suddenly your blind faith in all things Parelli will be more of a case of "oh, he's good, but this other way works better for this horse". I had a horse that there was NO WAY you could do ANYTHING Parelli-related with. Monty Roberts worked much better for him. I use a combination of many different horsemanship mentalities but the strongest lesson through ALL of them is to increase the pressure until you get what you want, and then instantly release. It's not natural horsemanship. I despise that tag. I resent the Parelli tag too. What I do is just plain old horsemanship, and it works. I have never seen pure PP methods actually work, EVER.

And yes, I have physically booted my horses in the guts - both of them - to get them out of my space. PP would say I'm cruel and abusive, but the proof is in the pudding and I have two respectful, trusting horses, even at feed time.


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

Blue eyed pony, I know that there are horses out there that parelli just doesn't work for, it does seem stupid how someone can say that one training method can suit all horses, doesn't it? I just meant that the horses I have seen and worked with have been okay! And Pat Parelli is a good horseman, its just if a horse does co-operate, he's like 'oh, what shall I do know, everyone here thinks I can do anything with a horse' and it all gets silly! He is good with his own horses! Very good actually but sometimes seems to lose it a bit. I don't just use Parelli, I like monty roberts as well, he is amazing with horses and I like karen rohlf since someone on here introduced me to her  I use lots of these methods but I use the parelli basics which is what works for me 
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## LadyNeigh (Jul 16, 2011)

right SHUT IT eveyone please- people have their own opinions and their own way of training/working with horses

as long as its not abuse we're fine

just accept it please?


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

I agree!
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## usandpets (Jan 1, 2011)

LadyNeigh - Have you had any luck in changing your horse since this thread was started?
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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

Oh yes, I would like to know that too!
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## LadyNeigh (Jul 16, 2011)

well shes not mine and I havn't been out to ride her, I will post back when I have done!!


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## savvygirl559 (Jan 3, 2012)

Oh okay!
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## Tnavas (Nov 29, 2011)

While I love to see the final outcome of the trust between man and horse with Natural Horsemanship/Parrelli - I do not like the way Parrelli treats the horses - he put me off from the day I saw the video on training the horse to trailer. It was abusive and I felt that a lot of it was showing off rather than humane training. I use bits and pieces of all sorts of methods - I call it common horse sense. My horses are all well adjusted, stay out of my space when asked, and put themselves on the truck - purely because they love going out and it doesn't scare them.


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