# Rescued a horse.. question.. LONG



## lmims2580 (Jan 26, 2012)

Okay, so to start off. A Little background on me. I have been around horses ALL of my life. I started riding at 3, and have been in the saddle ever since. It's my passion, and I love it. I am the administrative Director of Palmetto Farms horse rescue and sanctuary.

I have never 'trained' a horse. I know how to handle situations, and I have worked with a totally unrideable to teach him ground manners. Great. But, I have never actually trained a horse, from the ground up. I would LOVE to. LOVE to be able to start with a 2 year colt, and teach him everything. I think it would be an amazing bond.. But, now I'm rambling. Soo, to the point..

About 2 months we got a call to seize two horse. One was a fleabitten gray TB, and one was a buckskin paint. Sadly, the TB passed away a few days after he was rescued. I fell in love with the paint instantly. He is very gentle and has the best ground manners I could have asked for. Except for a couple things that need to be worked on. He is extremely gentle and kind. He is respectful, and has no fear. He was in much better shape when seized than his pasture mate was. He is not scarey in the least.

Well, I adopted him. I feel head over heels for this horse.

Aside from his ground manners.. He has not been ridden yet. We are not sure how he as been, but me putting weight on his back does not affect him. We haven't really worked with him any yet. I am going to start working with him tomorrow.

I was wondering what bit I should start him off with? Usually I ride in just a plain ol snaffle. Which does good on a lot of horses, but I'm worried he has never actually been trained. What bit do trainers use on colts when being ridden the first time?

And, I do realize that this could be 'dangerous'. But anytime you get in that saddle, you are taking a risk. I'm a GREAT ride, and I am confident in my abilities. I have done any kind of riding you could think of, and I am seasoned with it. I do not want to get a trainer, because this is going to be all me. The stable has a trainer, that will help me out if needed, and answer questions.. But wanted to get some answers from here too. Thank you.

These were taken about a week after he was seized. It was getting dark so he looks darker than he is, but he IS a buckskin paint.


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## mudpie (Jul 15, 2011)

Usually horses are started in snaffles. I am a firm believer that double-jointed snaffles are the best kind, so naturally, I recommend a french-link or a snaffle with a lozenge in the middle.

Keep in mind that when you start a horse, you don't just put a bridle and saddle on, get on, and then ride. I'm sure you know this. 

Since this is your first time, I suggest that you work with a qualified, experienced trainer. He/she can direct you, help you, and just generally oversee the training to make sure that nothing goes wrong. It'd be a safe alternative than trying to figure it out by yourself, you know? It'd give you the advantage of someone else's experience plus the closeness that comes from training a horse yourself. 

Good luck, and I hope you keep us updated!!


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## cowgirlup07 (Mar 13, 2008)

I have been training horses since age 7 (now 23) I started out with snaffle bits on the horses I'd train but soon found that it can be quite confusing to the horse when introducing all the new gadgets in one go.
I now start them all in a halter and lead or bosal as the horse is already used to facial pressure from halter breaking and leading/ground manner training. It works wonders BUT with this method you will not have as much control with your horse as with a bit on the plus side, you will have no chance of damaging the soft/sensitive skin around the animals mouth. 
if you choose this method, you'd use a roundpen or small paddock so you and the horse are somewhat more "safe" during the process. I start by lunging horses or pushing them around the roundpen both directions and get him/her to look at you when they stop. If they do not look at you (continuously until you give another command) then push them around some more. When you let the horse approach you or you approach the horse, its head should lower. Even if its slight, they should be rewarded with a good petting or scratching(whatever they like best). This has always worked for me, even with the wildest of horses.
when it comes to saddling, take it slow and don't rush your horse. Rushing will just cause problems later on. Many people only train for 1hr sessions, this practice is good to do but it will not hurt the horse to continue past 1hr. Working until you and your horse are comfortable with the results of that day. Work both sides as horses have "left and right brain" which means even if they have it down from the left, it will still frighten them from the right. Start with your saddle pad, let him sniff inside and out then gently setting it on your horse at first and sliding it all around, not just on his back but all over his neck, rear, legs and even his face, you never know where the wind will send your pad. Once your horse is comfortable with it sliding, toss it up onto him and be somewhat faster with moving it around. Next is the saddle, again let him sniff it before anything. When both of you are ready set it on his back and CAREFULLY cinch him up, don't move too fast or it could end badly but not too slow either as that could result in the saddle ending up upside down under his belly if he decides to buck. Once he's cinched up and calm keep hold of your rope and flop the stirrups around gradually making more noise with it again on both sides as the stirrups will always be making some kind of noise. Push him around the pen until he's comfortable with it. Only then do you try putting any kind of pressure in the stirrups, otherwise 99%chance you'll get thrown before ever fully mounting him if he's not comfortable with the saddle. Before actually mounting, put pressure in each stirrup to ensure he doesn't get frightened during mounting (basically standing in 1 stirrup then do the same on the other side, this also makes to where you can mount from either side) once your on, work on forward motion more than flexing out or turning. You cannot do anything with a horse that won't move forward. (if he won't move at first strictly off leg pressure, try pulling the inside rein towards the middle of the pen, this puts him off balance and he will have to move his feet. Once moving release pressure) once he will go off of pressure at a walk trot and lope without bucking bolting etc you do not work on 'stop' until he will move forward without problems. Once he does this, start on stopping when cued and your turns. Again, if you have his feet you have his mind. This applies at all stages of training. I personally will not put a bit in a horses mouth until he will fully respond from cues with the halter or training bosal. Once you are able to put a bit in his mouth follow the same method as with cues from the halter but be careful with pressure (as you already know) I hope this helps! I do agree with mudpie, you do need someone with you and to advise you.


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## xxBarry Godden (Jul 17, 2009)

Riding a horse is one issue, looking after a horse is another, training a horse to ride is a very different issue altogether - especially a horse which has been negelected. What is required in taking on what sounds to be an abandoned horse calls for sensitive expertise. Somewhere along the line an issue will present itself in the behaviour of the horse which will relate to the horse's period of neglect. So you have to learn how to wipe the slate clean.

First - do not rush to mount up - Rome was not built in a day.
Before you mount the horse must trust you and that comes about by your gentle handling on the ground. The horse must accept the head collar (not the bit) - and it must walk at your side, at your pace, without pulling against you.
You must create a training arena - flat, sandy, level, fenced. That's where the horse goes to work. The arena is where you learn to communicate with the animal - by touch, by feel, by voice, by posture.
For the first few sessions, you work on the horse in hand, your head by its head. The horse will learn your smell, touch and walk. You teach it to walk, stop and stand at your command.

A neglected horse will be under muscled. You must work it from the ground to help build up those muscles. Eventually you must learn how to lunge it from the centre of the arena on a long lead rope attached preferably to a training cavesson which works on the bridge of the nose.
You will teach it to walk on, to trot on, to canter on, and to woah and stand. In lunging the horse, you will not only show it how to obey your commands, but you will also be exercising it. And you will be starting to form a bond with it. One day you will introduce a mild training bit. One day you will strap on a saddle. One day you will mount up.

If you simply stuff a bit in its mouth, slap a saddle on its back and mount up, you will merely reinforce the innate fears the animal has of humans.
It is not ready to be ridden until you have learned to communicate with it.

The pace of your training is decided by the horse's progress - not your human time scale.

One thread on HF will not give you all the answers you need. but if you look through the threads already posted on the horse training forum about how to back and ride a neglected horse, you will start to get an idea of just how much you have to learn.

Be patient. Ask questions. Watch.

At the beginning the horse seeks: food, shelter and security. It craves for routine and familiarity. Groom it and pick its feet out every day - preferably at the same time. Feed it every day - but according to need.
Talk with it. Play with it. Get to know it.

The day it starts to look up when you enter its paddock and it walks towards you, you'll know you are on the right road. 

Of course at some time, the farrier needs to come to check its feet, the dentist needs to come to rasp its teeth and the vet needs to come to give it a once over and to innoculate it. But that's going to cost - but it is important to do. 

Enjoy your new horse but take your time.


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## xxBarry Godden (Jul 17, 2009)

Imims.
I reread your first post. You are talking: looks and 'me'

The horse doesn't care about looks and colour - that's you seeing that in due time with the right handling, the horse could look good. But will the animal feel good? Will it have confidence? Will it not be fearful?

As for your feelings, well if the horse comes right, if it responds to your treatment - then therein lies your reward. But the little chap has to feel safe, it has to feel wanted, it has to gain confidence. So you have to give it security and you have to show it the way to live with humans.

Your job as new owner is to get inside the animal's head. In that we Forum members can't help you. 

At this stage I don't put value on your riding ability. If you ever have to fight with the horse, then you have already lost the game. If your riding is good enough to feel the horse respond to your subtle aids then maybe one day you might come together. I hope you do.

This little chap has lost its TB mate. It needs to make new friends and therein is your chance - you can be one. But don't go loading the youngster with your human aims and desires. Just repair him. The horse just wants to live, eat and be sheltered from the elements. It seeks routine. 

In the photo he looks like a bag of bones, feed him a little slowly, work him a little bit by bit. Make his coat shine. Make him feel safe. Develop his muscles.
Learn his language - teach him yours.

Enjoy him and try to make him your friend. One day he might carry the responsibility of keeping you safe up on his back.

There are no set rules when taking on a neglected horse, except perhaps for you to respect, namely: watch, look and learn. Oh, and patience.


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## lmims2580 (Jan 26, 2012)

I thank everyone for their posts, and I agree with a lot that was said.

This is not my first rescue that I have dealt with, I work with a Horse Rescue on a daily basis. I do realize a lot comes before hopping on and riding. I Realize that he may have trust issues along with health problems as well that need to be dealt with before hand.

I realize that before riding, comes a lot of work. I do not plan on riding him for months, but I wanted to know what bit was needed.

I know he is skinny, coat is dull, and that he can't be ridden for awhile.

I did NOT fall in love with his looks, I fell in love with his kind personality. His loving honesty, and respectfulness.


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

I can see that you're anxious to start him. Since you run a rescue you probably have a broken horse to ride. Work THIS one on the ground for the next several months. Work on your own riding muscles on another horse. If you have cable or satilite start watching the training shows on RFD.tv I have found that most of their trainers teach ground manners to horses in the same way. THIS will save you $. I prefer ground training methods by Julie Goodnight and Dennis Reis, but don't let that influence you. The programs will teach you a LOT, just like reading magazine articles from reputable equine periodicals were very helpful to me in the 1980's and 1990's.
The more time you spend obedience and cue training, the closer bond will form between you and your horse. The concepts are very simple. You must be consistant, and it ALWAYS takes longer than we think to get the training solid. The more you delve in, the more bad habits you spot in other horse's training. So much of a horse's training is just common sense. Remember, horses are domesticated animals. Even Mustangs train in easily bc their genes are domesticated genes. You CAN take the wild out of a horse, but you cannot take the wild out of most wild animals. Horses are social and they want to please you.

I agree with Ryan Gingerich when he says _5-7 repetitions of any skill in any one session are enough. _ More than 7 and the horse tunes it out.
Many trainers recommend using a dressage length whip with a flag, and desenstizing your horse to ANYTHING that you think he might fear, or notice he is fearful of.

Keep us updated. =D


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## sierrams1123 (Jul 8, 2011)

I wish you luck, but I have to agree with the comment made by mudpie.
Although I understand you want it to be all you doing his training, I really recommend a professional trainer be around during the time you start backing him. Not that I do not believe you can do it, its just a lot different teaching a horse things that you may already now how to do with a horse that already knows what you want them to do.

I have been ridding almost as long as I have been alive and I still learn new, better, and easier ways to train a horse to do things.
I also do not consider myself a trainer, I am terrible at starting horses in the saddle, not that I can not do it, I just do not have the patience anymore. I would rather let the professionals do the most important training, that being the basics.
IMHO I would rather any horse I plan on having any kind of future with have the correct basic fundamental training before I further their training in whatever direction I feel they will excel in.
I am not saying you are not capable of doing this, its just a lot harder then you may think.
Training a horse to ride is more then jumping on and riding them.


I wish you all the luck, and hope you keep us updated, the more pictures the better


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## furbabymum (Dec 28, 2011)

Hello, I'm the mind -> gutter sort. I can't get past the "I'm a GREAT ride" part. Ohh gutter.


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