# Questions about English Reins - construction and length preferences



## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

I've mostly used 9-10 foot long yacht rope reins...10' in the picture below:










I'd like to switch to leather. On the western side, 8' long roper reins are about as close as I can come to the length and material I want.

On the English side, it seems many reins buckle together for an overall length of around 9 feet...but it also seems they all are either rubber covered or have lacing. For riding in the southern Arizona summer, rubber seems...repulsive. I tried a pair with lacing, but I don't like wearing gloves and moving my hands up and down the reins was hard on the fingers.

Why are so many either rubber or laced? I'm not criticizing, just puzzled.

And does anyone make simple, plain leather reins that would have a total length of 9-10 feet? Any suggestions?


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## lostastirrup (Jan 6, 2015)

Yes they do make plain flat reins. Try Dover. Also ebay. They also make canvas reins with stops. These are nice as well although personally I prefer plain leather reins. I have no idea why so many are rubber or laced, must be a fad. I got a pair of Davinci black flat reins off of ebay. payed $20 total.


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## gigem88 (May 10, 2011)

Rubber laced are used a lot in eventing. Since there are water jumps and ponds, the rubber gives a better grip.


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

My favorite leather reins--
http://www.statelinetack.com/Search.aspx?query=Henri De Rivel Advantage Flat Laced Reins
You get a great grip with these reins. The English hook and bucket is WAAAAYYYYYY more secure than any Chicago screws, which WILL loosen up with use and fall out, and a lot more secure than any latigo ties. I also hate, hate, hate those stupid spring hooks. THEY can come loose at a bad time, too. If you ride with those, you might as well be riding bridle-less.


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

There is English reins with no lacing, I had a pair, hated them too. I like the lacing for the grip.


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## waresbear (Jun 18, 2011)

Also if you ride in a double bridle, the 2 sets of reins are plain as well.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

Corporal said:


> My favorite leather reins...You get a great grip with these reins...


Hmmm...those may be the reins I bought a year ago and gave up on. I tend to move the reins up and down in my hand a lot, and the lacing rubbed my fingers too much. I tried wearing gloves, but all I have are work gloves - very hot for summer riding!

FWIW, my yacht rope reins have trigger snaps on them. They do double duty as 12' lead ropes, and the triggers have never given way no matter how hard the horse has hit the far end of the rope (such as the time Mia's saddle slipped sideways & I jumped off, but then had to remove the saddle that was stuck completely on her right side. She was scared up the wazoo, and exploded when the saddle released. She hit the end of the rope going east at the same time I hit the end of the rope going north, and the double impact spun her around and she finished facing west - toward me). I'm not sure how much force it would take to break them, but I'm sure my bare hands don't want to be gripping the rope when that much force is applied.

I'm thinking I may end up cutting my split reins and putting on some sort of buckle myself. These sound tempting, though - 5/8" by 54":










Collegiate Flat Reins - Statelinetack.com

I do like how some of the English reins attach to the bit. I wish the English world and Western world of riding would take more opportunities to cross over and teach each other new tricks.

Thought I'd add the yacht rope reins had been reattached to Mia's halter that she always wears under her bridle by the time I tried to remove the stuck saddle - NOT the bit!


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

bsms,


contact our member Nutty Saddler. he makes THE nicest English reins. he will make to any length, and width, braided , woven, with or without stops, you name it. very reasonable, and a lot of "weight" to his reins. 

I had some made for Z , when I was still riding the 17hh giant. now I don't sue them since they are a bit too long for a typical sized horse. I had him make them because I didn't want really long, (like 67 inches) but I needed more than 60 , I think mine are 64 inches . . 

too long and they'll be getting in your way. generally speaking , you want long enough for the horse to stretch their neck out , and if you hold them, the loop that hangs down isn't more than about 24 inches, top! (so, it hangs down a foot. less is better, like hanging down about 8 inches?)


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

Corporal said:


> My favorite leather reins--
> Horse Tack, Horse & Equine Supplies - Statelinetack.com
> You get a great grip with these reins. The English hook and bucket is WAAAAYYYYYY more secure than any Chicago screws, which WILL loosen up with use and fall out, and a lot more secure than any latigo ties. I also hate, hate, hate those stupid spring hooks. THEY can come loose at a bad time, too. If you ride with those, you might as well be riding bridle-less.



I like a laced rein, too, but no rein at $21.00 will be of any real quality. because I have the rein in my hand, the "feel" of the rein is paramount to me. it's a Living thing, so to speak. I don't mean to come off as snobby , but quality leather just feels better.


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

http://www.horseforum.com/tack-equipment-classifieds/reins-sale-494409/


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## lostastirrup (Jan 6, 2015)

> I like a laced rein, too, but no rein at $21.00 will be of any real quality. Because I have the rein in my hand, the "feel" of the rein is paramount to me. It's a Living thing, so to speak. I don't mean to come off as snobby , but quality leather just feels better.


leather is dead. the key is in conditioning the leather to be as supple as living skin. Personally I cannot dish out an arm and a leg on out-of-the-box exceptional reins. So I do with eBay and whatever is cheapest I can find. 

Quality leather sure does feel better but it is more a mercy to me than my horse, who only cares about the hands on the ends of the reins. I think it is very possible to get a cheep pair of reins and treat them well and have them work just as well as a hundred-some pair of a big brand name. I drool over tack that enters into the tripple digits in costs, but in practicality I don't and neither do many people need that kind of equipment to do well.


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

I KNOW that it is possible to condition cheap leather reins. I still have a 20yo pair that are soft as butter. The cheap Liberty Saddlery tack that I bought last year at 90% off got a good soak in neatsfoot oil when I got the box home. Then the reins and the breastplate and the bridle got hung in the tack room for a few weeks of soaking in before I used them. 
The problem with reins is that you cannot explain to your horse that you are using the *expensive* reins the day that YOU get sloppy and he catches the reins and breaks one. The expensive reins break just as easily as in the inexpensive ones and you are out all of that extra money. I don't care what YOU buy, I just have to watch what I spend on MY tack.
I also still use 28yo harness leather tack that was constructed by an Amish leather maker. Those, too, better quality, are soft as butter.
I agree that quality leather is definitely worth paying for. For everyday schooling I would not spend the money. Maybe for the show ring.


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## gottatrot (Jan 9, 2011)

Smooth leather reins feel very nice. If your horse is one that sweats a lot, then you will find them very slippery and difficult to hold onto. For a horse that likes a loose rein, they are great.

Another option (not sure if you're looking for style or comfort) is the woven style endurance rein. Even though these look like rubber reins, they are a flat nylon weave that is very easy to hold. The reins are very long, very light and are long enough to walk behind your horse on a narrow trail. You can get a good grip on them even if they are wet. I'd prefer if they were made completely from the woven material without the biothane, but they work well.
I like them because they don't cut into your hands or make calluses.
Biothane Tack - Zilco Woven Endurance Reins - Stainless Steel


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## verona1016 (Jul 3, 2011)

There are tons of different options out there. I like laced leather reins (and I never wear gloves), and my favorite pair is one I got as part of a $99 complete bridle. I tried buying a pair of the same brand in black a few years later and they weren't nearly as soft or supple so I don't know if they dropped in quality or I just lucked out the first time!

Other common types of reins include plain leather (with or without stops), web (with or without stops), rubber, plain biothane, or grippy biothane. There are probably more, but these are the most common. I have a pair of plain biothane for trail riding and it's nice that they're so low maintenance. 

Length is usually about 9 ft total, but often have longer or shorter options.

Attachments are usually either hooks or buckles (you don't often see Chicago screws in English tack), or in the case of biothane, Conway buckles. I prefer the hooks for their more streamlined appearance. Snaps can be added on to the ends of any rein, and are sometimes included, but are rarely permanently sewn in.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

There are some things to bear in mind where your reins are concerned

First and foremost is safety - both yours and your horses . I have seen cheap reins break and riders suddenly find themselves on a horse with little or no control - I also know of cases where synthetic reins are made from one length and attached to the bit at each end, these don't break and if your horse gets one of its legs through the loop or the loop gets caught on something you can end up with a broken neck or at the least a hefty vet bill.

Reins should always have a break point , there is nothing wrong with using synthetic material ( I do so myself ) provided they are made properly - mine have leather & buckle fittings at each end

Plain leather reins should also be made properly - it is NOT just a case of cutting a strip from a hide and there you go . Leather reins should always be cut as a pair ( as in side by side from the hide ) and they should also be made with the tail end of the cow at the horses head ( the tail end is stronger ) - Leather reins are also restricted in length by how big the cow was

Cheap may sound good - and synthetic may appeal as it is light and hardwearing - but always put your and your horses safety first - I can never understand people who put their and their horses lives at risk to try and save a few bucks


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

for me, it's not just a matter of safety, it's a matter of how much enjoyment I can get out of that one thing. becuase it's in constant contact with my hand, I find myself appreciating the bulk, feel, bend of it. I can seen not spending a lot of money on every piece of tack, but having nice reins just feels like a daily, but small, luxury.


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## Eolith (Sep 30, 2007)

I'm on the pessimistic side: I suspect that so many reins are rubber or woven material because it's cheaper than full leather reins. I actually hate that it's almost impossible to buy a bridle without getting really crummy/cheap reins along with it. I would actually prefer that they just sell me the headstall alone for a little less $$ than to give me crummy reins that I'll only end up replacing and then have sitting around in the tack room indefinitely.

My current favored reins are full leather with leather stoppers on them. These reins help me be certain that my rein length is even on both sides and that I'm not unconsciously giving away more rein than I mean to (sort of a bad habit of mine).


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

Perhaps an explanation will be easier to appreciate if I take it out of the realm of horses....

I shave every day and have for decades. Most guys use something like this:










I use something like this:










Apart from the fact that blades cost me under 10 cents each (vs $3-4 each), I like the feel of brass and metal and knowing the razor is roughly 70 years old (made sometime between 1945 & 50) and likely to last decades longer. I can and have shaved with plastic multi-blade wonders, but just prefer the feel of an all-metal razor meant to last decades.

I've used yacht rope reins for the last 7 years, and the one I use daily looks nearly new. I don't ride with contact often. But the weight of leather and the feel of good leather is different. Good leather does have a different feel than poor leather, no matter how much one oils it.

I don't object to anyone using biothane or yacht rope or split reins or latigo or rubber or anything else. Everyone needs to figure out what works best for them and their horse. But if one does get leather reins, I think good leather is worth an extra $20-40 spent. 

If I need to dismount and lead my mare somewhere, I don't want to take a chance on a long walk thru the desert due to cheap leather. When I dismount to open a barbed wire gate, I don't want to take a chance on her getting lost in the desert due to cheap leather. If using good leather came at a $300 premium, I'd stick to my yacht rope reins...but I don't think good quality leather costs that much more than cheaper leather. Of course, it is an individual decision. Very few men, for example, shave their faces with a metal razor made before they were born...:wink:


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## updownrider (Mar 31, 2009)

Eolith said:


> I suspect that so many reins are rubber or woven material because it's cheaper than full leather reins.


I ride almost exclusively in rubber reins and have for years. Every pair of rubber reins I've used has rubber wrapped around full leather. The rubber might wear out but it is easy to get the rubber replaced. 


As for conditioning poor quality leather, sure you can. But you can't make poor quality into good quality. Where the hide comes from, the initial tanning process and chemicals used make a big difference. Quality, safety and construction matter when choosing any leather tack.

I have seen poor quality reins snap and not because a horse step on them. The reins were well cared for. They were just weak. It was dangerous when they broke and it was only because of good riding that the situation ended well.


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## gottatrot (Jan 9, 2011)

If we're also discussing reasons why people use different reins, the size is a big reason for some people. I like the feel of a quality, smooth leather rein, and I like how rubber reins function. However, both are almost always very thick. I have small hands, and to hold thick reins requires that I have my fingers nearly open rather than curled with my fingers touching the palms. This makes it difficult to relax my hands and wrists.
The typical English web rein is very flat and thin. Some smooth, flat leather reins are very thin also. This makes them difficult to keep track of in your hand and they don't have enough weight to lay nicely on their own. They come up in the air instead of laying down against the horse's shoulder and neck. That bothers me.


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

gottatrot

Old style rubber grip reins are made by having a normal pair of reins with a rubber 'tube' stitched onto them , this does make them bulky , however there is a rubber supergrip material that gives you the grip and feel of rubber grip reins without the bulk , they are the same rubber only instead of a 3-4mm leather insert they have a 1mm web inside and have the leather part stitched onto each end , this gives you the feel that you would need without the bulk , they are also very supple.
The web insert gives you the reassurance of strength whilst the leather will break if they get caught up in anything - so you have both strength safety and a feel that many like

Here is a pair I made with blue inserts to give you a clear picture of what I mean








I can now only get brown and black rubber 3/4" wide which may seem large but it is not and will easily be held by small hands


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

My cheap leather reins and saddles took the wear and tear of a lesson program day in and day out for 10 years. Most of the cheap tack survived this. I have broken cheap leather reins and I have broken expensive harness leather reins.
Perhaps synthetic reins for everyday use is the best idea. For showing, that's another subject.
I think that if you own one horse, it's a great idea to pamper yourself with good quality leather. I own three. I still cannot afford the very best leather tack. Maybe it's bc of Obamas vision of beaten down Middle Class Americans who have to pay more and more taxes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Nutty Saddler I truly respect your craftsmanship. Pray that I can afford to buy your artistry in the future.


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

Corporal - Thankyou for the comment , for me reins and plain bridles are just - rub of the mill - stuff , Artistry is something else that I don't do very often as it just takes too **** long and there just isn't the market for it . A plain hunt cavesson bridle takes a day to make - sometimes a noseband with a fancy pattern can take a day all by itself - there is also little appreciation for just how long and difficult some of the things are to make and when the price reflects the time taken to make they can become expensive


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## gottatrot (Jan 9, 2011)

Nutty Saddler, 
Do you have any link or site name where I can get some thin rubber reins like those?
BSMS,
I've always found Schneider Saddlery to have a good selection of leather reins:
Schneider Saddlery - Search Results for leather reins


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

gottatrot

I make those reins myself - if you want a pair they are $60 including shipping to the USA. The blue and red super rubber is limited stock now but brown and black are no problem . They are 3/4" width and can be any length you require , the superrubber is BetaBiothane USA Manufacture so not any Indian or Chinese rubbish , the leather is English tanned bridle leather and all are 100% hand made ( including all stitching - quality is my main aim and I don't make anything else.

Either you or anyone else can PM me for further details

I have a website for further contact - ABOUT US
This mainly showcases browbands but I can make almost anything from browbands to full bridles to dog leads & collars


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## Foxhunter (Feb 5, 2012)

I hate leather plaited reins, no matter how soft they are they will rub fingers if you are doing fast work.

For everyday riding I always used rubber reins, the ones that are nylon with rubber cover are great, they aren't as bulky and strong. It was the only article of tack that I ever had that wasn't leather.

Plain leather reins are fine until the horse starts to sweat and you need to take a grip.


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## budley95 (Aug 15, 2014)

Plain leather reins are normally used on a double bridle. I use them for the curb and then have covered ones for the "snaffle" so I can feel the difference without looking. Look up double bridle leather reins and you'll find what you're looking for. Go for full size for the longest ones you can find.

I personally love my stubben covered ones. They're thicker than normal and just feel right for me
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## Corporal (Jul 29, 2010)

Nothing rubs if you wear gloves.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

I ordered reins from Nutty Saddler. I also bought a pair of split reins the other day...5/8" wide, but not as thick as the previous pair I tried. Based on one ride, I think they have potential. I lowered the bit after this picture was taken. I will probably try removing the trigger snaps from the reins on my next ride...do long bangs contribute to spookiness? My wife would be ****ed if I trimmed them, though. She's already upset that I cut a knot out of Mia's mane...








​ 
In the 10% humidity of southern Arizona, I don't sweat. I may 'salt', but I don't have to worry about my reins getting damp with sweat. I honestly never thought about reins getting wet. Not a big problem where I live...

No way I'm wearing gloves, though. My leather work gloves DO get soaked with sweat and would be extremely uncomfortable for a ride.


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

Update: I had a chance to ride today using the reins Nutty Saddler made. They felt good to the hand and didn't get sweaty in our 10% humidity. They are a lot lighter than the yacht rope reins, but I think Mia neck reins better with them - maybe because they are not round and soft, so they therefor give a clearer cue against her neck? 

I went with a total length of 10 feet and width of 3/4". For most riding, that give a a loop hanging down about 12" long, but it doesn't have anything to catch on. It also allows me to 'drop the reins' without dropping them, giving her the cue to go ahead and grab a few mouthfuls of grass.

I think the main thing that surprised me was how light they felt. There was almost no weight at all. Perhaps that is part of the English vs Western thing: lots of western riders WANT a heavy rein, but then, they don't ride with contact. Still, it seems to me that the weight has to be supported by the bit in the horse's mouth, so why the weight? I suspect it has to do with my lower level of riding and simple needs as a horse/rider combination.

I also have tried the lighter split reins I recently bought. They are 5/8" wide, but thicker than the English reins...but not as thick as the previous split reins I tried. Picture below:










Heavy Split.

Lighter split.

English reins.

The lighter split reins felt good to my hand and felt good for switching between one and two handed riding. They may become my standard for riding in the arena, where I'm often switching and frequently direct reining. The English reins may become my standard on the trail, since there is no chance of dropping them.


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

this may sound odd, but that bit has really large rings, that look oversized for her face, and seem to place the cheek piece in an odd angle on the ring. I am more used to seeing the straight bar of the mouthpiece appear more flat (visualize it , as pictured there, rotating a bit to the left, wiht ring coming more up)

I have never used the metal snap ends, and that's because a had a trianer tell me that she thought many horses did not like the clanking and vibrations that they caused on the bit, which of course transfers directily to the hrose's mouth. they are pretty handy on the trail, though, if you need to unclip one rein for any reason.

I sometimes ride with yacht reins, and since they mostly hang down, you DO have to take the ocillations out of them , or due to the weight, it can get pretty big and put a lot of "noise" on the bit. It is good in the sense that you are keeping a "living" feel on the rein, meaning you both absorb unwanted movement, and send purposeful movement down the rein, which due to its' weight , transmits both quite loudly.

I like English weight reins in that you can more easily put your whole hand around them, and by simply closing your hand more firmly around the rein, you can speak volumes.

I assume that you were satisfied with the quality of the reins you bought from Nutty Saddler?


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## nikelodeon79 (Mar 3, 2008)

I foresee reins made by Nutty Saddler in my future.

I have tried the following:
1. Plain leather: too slippery
2. Laced: a bit to bulky and created annoying rubbing
3. Rubber: too bulky but I liked the grip.
4. Leather with stops: my favorite thus far, but the stops are slightly annoying and the leather isn't supple enough.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## nikelodeon79 (Mar 3, 2008)

tinyliny said:


> I have never used the metal snap ends, and that's because a had a trianer tell me that she thought many horses did not like the clanking and vibrations that they caused on the bit, which of course transfers directily to the hrose's mouth. they are pretty handy on the trail, though, if you need to unclip one rein for any reason.


I bought a pair of those clip reins when I had my last horse in training, because they could easily be unclipped when lunging. One day one side actually came unclipped when my trainer was riding. It occurred during one of his tense moments, but thankfully she was able to execute a one rein stop. I never used them again.
_Posted via Mobile Device_


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

The rings are the same size as the D-rings on the other snaffles I own, and the same size as the O-ring bit I have. The Waterford D-ring has a longer straight bar, making more of a true "D" while the rest of my D-ring are more rounded before the straight side occurs.

It is largely the same fit as the Waterford. I tend to leave most bits a little lower in the mouth than many. I don't want any wrinkle, normally.










I'm an agnostic on the issue of metal clips vibrating., but I'm starting to lean on the side of believing they do not. At a walk or trot I've seen no difference between using them or not. At a canter, with the yacht rope reins, I find I need to take most of the slack out anyways to prevent the reins from flopping and giving uneven pressure on the bit. Once most of the slack is out, I think there is enough tension to prevent the clips from vibrating.

It is one of the things I wish someone with the equipment would solve - a high-speed video centered on the bit as the horse canters to see if there is vibration. However, this is the variation in the pressure on the bit with a horse ridden by an experienced dressage rider:










Given that much variation in a few seconds of time using standard dressage tack, just how much additional vibration would be caused by metal clips? I wish there were fewer studies done on "rollkur" and more on practical stuff that all riders might encounter...:evil:

In any case, for me, the advantage outweighs any drawbacks. I always ride Mia with the rope halter under the bridle. If I have her out on a trail, the ability to switch in seconds from reins attached to the bit to something attached to her halter is helpful. When she gets very nervous about something, it helps to back up a little, make sure she is aware of me, dismount, move the reins to her halter and then lead her as required. She is an honest horse and those are not "breaks" for her. When she is afraid, she is genuinely afraid. It also is important when I need to open one of the typical barbed wire gates around here. For where I ride and on the horse that I ride, being able to switch instantly from bridle to halter is just too valuable for me to give up lightly.

FWIW, I've used trigger snaps for 7 years now. I've never had one come undone or break. I've used them lunging Mia, and I've used them to control her when her eyes were rolling like slot machines. One draw back to one piece leather reins, IMHO, is that they probably are not as strong as what I've been using. I would NOT consider the English style reins strong enough to use as a short lunge line. The trigger snaps have proven themselves to be as reliable a piece of tack as anything I've found. The type I use:










After using yacht rope reins for 6+ years, leather feels strange. I think I will come to prefer leather once I get used to the different feel. Mia seems to pick up on a neck rein cue faster with the leather than with the rope and they feel good in my hand. The heavy split reins do NOT feel good - just too much weight in my hand from 8' of thick leather. The lighter split reins are not bad, and the ones Nutty Saddler made are feather light in comparison to what I'm used to. I'm glad he recommended going with the 3/4" width.

I'm quite happy with the quality and price. He was a pleasure to deal with and the leather is quite nice...to me. If someone wants heavy leather reins, as many western riders do, they would be too light. I've met people who consider 3/4" thick leather to be the minimum weight acceptable. :shock: To me, 8 feet of 5/8" thick leather seems like a lot of dead weight in my hand, and thus on the bit as well.

Time will tell. The yacht rope reins I've used have certainly been very durable and very strong. They are soft on the hand and, if the horse hits the fan, give the hand a lot to hold on to. I'll need to use both sets of leather reins, split and not split, for a while before I decide to retire the yacht rope ones.


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

Thankyou bsms for buying a set of reins from me - and thankyou tinyliny for sending bsms in my direction

The reins should last 10-20 years depending on how you look after them , oil is the spawn of the devil and will do nothing but rot the stitching and degrade the leather fibres , if you only ever wipe them over with a damp cloth and then use a leather grease with regularity they should remain supple and not degrade

As for the weight - well English tanned hides used in saddlery is different to that of what is prepared for the western world so the weight and feel will be different - I only use English tanned hides from a known source and hand stitch throughout to guarantee quality and durability - machine stitching can unravel alarmingly which is never a good thing where horsewear is involved


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

FWIW, I was taught that oil softens leather by breaking it down and weakening the bonds between the fibers.

My bridles get a LIGHT coat of oil about once a year. Tops. My saddles don't get oiled. When they are drying out some, I use a tub of Passier Lederbalsam that I bought 6 years ago and still has plenty left in it. About twice a year, while the saddle is out in the Arizona sun, I rub some on the seat. Anything not absorbed in 30 minutes gets rubbed off with a towel. The rest of the saddle gets looked at (the insides of the fender can get dirty) and cleaned.

All my tack is stored in a spare bedroom. The main enemy here seems to be the fine dirt that blows in the air and gets into crevices. I was told any excess oil would hold the dirt in and act like sandpaper. I don't know if it is true, but my leather tack is all holding up well with almost no oiling. I rode my English saddles in my blue jeans (Wranglers, $16 at Wal-Mart) for several years with no visible wear.

I have no concerns about the longevity of my leather reins. It really comes down to if I like using them or not, and if my horse responds as well or better when ridden that way.


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## Clava (Nov 9, 2010)

I never oil my tack. I also use fairly narrow plain reins for my haffy (even for hunting) and some soft 5 strand plaited ones for my TB just because I like the feel of them (they provide a little grip).


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

my leather tack will probably outlast my ability to use it.

as to the trigger snaps, it's not so much that they vibrate more, but that something metal on metal will certainly transmit more noise than leather on metal. but, I don't have personal experience riding with them to say any kind of pro or con to that.


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

Oiling leather is like dunking cardboard in a bucket of water - a light coat once a year will do no harm and the Passier balm is good stuff - keep to that regime and you won't go wrong

transmission of commands through the reins using English riding is different to that of western - as tiny says sometimes all you have to do is clench/squeeze your hands to make a difference whilst as you have said western is about the position of the weight of the reins - 'washing line ' reins in English riding is really bad form as you must always have a contact , this would be exhausting if you rode like this for half a day on a trail


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## Saddlebag (Jan 17, 2011)

All my tack, whether used or not is soaped twice annually. Rarely is oil needed. Mind you, I don't own anything leather that isn't of good quality. BTW, there was a time I tho't I'd like the single yacht rope rein so I borrowed a pair. Didn't like them at all, possible because of many miles using leather. Then an aha moment. If the horse and I should part company when using a single rein, the horse can get in all kinds of trouble if it hooks it on something. No thanks, I'll stick with my split leather reins.


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## lostastirrup (Jan 6, 2015)

*Nutty Saddler-*


> - a light coat once a year will do no harm and the Passier balm is good stuff - keep to that regime and you won't go wrong


So what do you do when it gets soaking wet. Like if I go riding in a rainstorm I usually do a full on cleaning and 'oiling' with fiebings saddle soap. What is the healthiest way to care for my leather after it has taken 'abuse' 

And another question if my horse and me have sweated in it profusely as does occasionally happens I clean it once again with Fiebings saddle soap because otherwise it goes stiff. Is this the correct way to do things? if not is there a better way?


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

If your leather gets wet the best thing you can do is wipe it over with a cloth or other material to absorb any excess water and then after it has dried ( naturally ) simply clean it and then apply one of the -grease- types of nourishments

Basically leather is cow hide, the best nourishment you can apply is that which is closest to what a cow would produce, which is curriers grease ( this is what the leather manufacturers use ) every manufacturer has their own formula which varies slightly but the main ingredient is TALLOW ( or rendered beef fat ) with some oils and beeswax 

If you keep your leather greased then this will naturally repel most water and keep it from getting water damage or drying out too much in the sun - straight oil is bad for leather as the leather can absorb huge amounts become ' mushy ' and loose its strength - it will feel soft and supple for sure but when it oozes oil it becomes slippery and for sure you will have fibre damage and have the danger of it breaking, a light coat ( and I mean light ) once or twice a year will do no harm but when people start talking about putting their bridle in a bucket of oil overnight they are doing just about the worst possible thing they can ( after all, when you wash your car you don't submerge it in a swimming pool, do you ? )


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## lostastirrup (Jan 6, 2015)

Thanks Nutty- my leather care routine has always been to care for it when it gets stiff, dirty or needs to be a bit shinier. I will definitely keep what you said in mind


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

Saddlebag - I often see for sale reins which are one loop with a clip at each end , these are just about the most dangerous thing you can put on you horse

Proper English reins will have a buckle join half way - this buckle fitting is on thinned and waisted leather so if a rider gets thrown the reins will break if they get caught - some of my customers have had this happen and they appreciate that when the reins break this is not a fault - the reins are just doing what they were designed to do

Western split reins are extra long lengths of leather so a horse can either be ground tied ( if trained ) or ties to a hitching rail . They need to be long to be able to tie to a rail and have no loop for a horse to get its legs through when ground tying - neither of which activity you do when riding English

Don't forget that Western riding and all its apparel was developed for the mid-west when there were no stables or stalls and weeks at a time were spent on the trail so riding kit and styles differ - In English riding you were never far from a stableyard, always took the bridle/saddle off the horse when you were finished for the day ( and in most cases finished for the few hours of your ride ) - whilst hunting or generally riding in the country often there were hedges and ditches to jump so a rider would need to hold the reins 'buckle end' and be able to quickly regain control of their horse by only having a foot or so of reins to gather up - western split reins would not work that well - different reins for different purposes


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## bsms (Dec 31, 2010)

"_Saddlebag - I often see for sale reins which are one loop with a clip at each end , these are just about the most dangerous thing you can put on you horse_"

Hmmm...western riding that uses a one-piece rein would include barrel racing and roping, romal reins and mecate reins. I've ridden about 99% of the time in one piece reins. My horse has dumped me once and I've jumped off twice. She hasn't gotten a foot caught in the reins on those 3 times. Not saying it couldn't happen, but if my horse and I part company...she is on her own. I'd be more worried about her breaking her leg in the rocks or taking a tumble from sheer clumsiness than being hurt by catching her leg. Part of her initial training included learning to stop if her foot gets caught.

2 of the 3 times we've parted company were mostly my fault and are not likely to repeat. The third came when she exploded during a dismount. I honestly don't spend much time worrying about coming off of her. My safety concerns are mostly that I'll stay on her during a fall and be rolled on.

I've also never dropped a rein unless we parted company, so I don't have a lot of reason to worry about dropping split reins.

My experience is limited, so take it with a big cup of FWIW. I've yet to hear of a horse being injured or killed from getting caught in a one piece rein, but I suppose it could happen...just not often.


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## Clava (Nov 9, 2010)

In my experience reins usually break before injury, but the buckle is extremely useful if a horse steps through the reins and you need to quietly release them.


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## Nutty Saddler (May 26, 2009)

bsms - when you refer to barrel racing etc , the horse is in a competition so there are lots or people close by and the horse is normally in a closed / corralled environment . You also live in Arizona so you have also outlined your biggest worries and as you have said should your horse stand on its reins it is trained to stay still

If you are living in a wooded/forested area then one piece reins with no break point is a death trap for a loose horse - if the horse bolts and the reins get caught then you will have a broken neck. I see many synthetic reins made from one piece and they have a breaking strain measured in the tonnes - your reins should never be stronger than your horse


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## updownrider (Mar 31, 2009)

I just keep liking Nutty's posts because of the useful information, so I just want to say thanks.


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## tinyliny (Oct 31, 2009)

they will usually bread AT the buckle, since that is where the leaterh is thinnest, and weakest due to already being pierced. and that's good, as a skilled leather person can recut and reset the buckle and you'd hardly know any damage ever happened to them.


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